Thin wall tube is tough, it just wants to crush. When bending tubes like this the internal diameter needs to be supported with mandrel to avoid wall buckling. I would suggest using the fixture you made (steel base is probably a good idea) on the lathe again, but fill the tubes with wax (or similar lowish temp melting material) or a compacted fine powder (sand probably wouldn't be ideal on a machine tool). This can also help if you end up grinding instead of machining, just beware of getting the tubes hot enough to melt the wax or gumming up the wheel.
Excellent point. I can fill them with wax and go easy. Thanks!!! I also thought of grinding them as the setup with it's steel base is on the rotary table - so the grinding head is stationary but the tubes spin... Thank you!!!
I see you can't use 5C so; Make yourself a collet out of brass, drill and ream etc for a close fit for a single tube, make sure to only drill/bore deep enough that it creates a backstop/step allowing the tube to only protrude a small amount from the front face. You can then either cut three slots with a slitting saw or just a hacksaw (they both work) Its a quick cheap way to make custom collets with length stops built in. Then in terms of cutting, a VERY sharp tool. Grind a tool with a lot of side and back rake. I find that works best for thin wall tubing. Light cuts. If that still has issues crushing the tube, Id turn a brass rod insert a close fit to the tube inner diameter. Edit; alternatively consider using tailstock support and making a very thin sharp parting tool to trim the end to length close to the collet face for double support.
Wonderful tips. The collet making is exactly what I tried with the 3D printed version. Loved the internal support idea - I'm making a stainless collet (but I should have thought of brass... easier on the lathe) I'llput these tips to use. Thank you!
@@Smallathe Brass is a great material. Easy to use, strong, with care it will last for a really long time without wearing out. (I use a lot of homemade brass collets for my day to day work) Good luck!
Yeah, thin tube is hard to work with. With parts like this, I usually do a rough oversize cut, then install in the next assembly, then finish it as a part of the next assembly. (I.e. flush trim/grind). You might also try using a cutoff wheel mounted to a tool post, advancing inward towards the center of the rotating fixture. An abrasive disc exerts less force. Heat will still be an issue with a plastic fixture.
Make a small insert rod 3,95 and put it inside. You can make a small holder like the one you printed and in brass you can insert small inserts and secure them with thread m4. Or you can put the rod insert in the tube and do it on lathe
Does your locking screw on end stick out past tube's. If does what about making tubes stick out farther so u can machine them all in one pass on Mill laying on there side. Maybe idk. Throwing it at the wall 🧱. See what sticks
I have same machine as you (Unimat) and I can suggest one way. Take for example some 10mm brass rod about 2mm longer than the piece you want to machine. Then drill the hole with the diameter of the tube you want to machine to about 5mm from the end so that this would be your end stop for tubes. Then cut this made part along the long axis to about 3/4 so that when you tighten it in the chuck it will hold the tube firmly. The rod is 10mm so this means you have end stop when pushed into the chuck, because it has good 6mm hole through.this means that the tube inserted will always be in the same spot. It also helps if you have some end mill to square the bottom of the hole inside the brass rod. Then you just lock the carriage and cut each individual tube one by one.
I guess the easiest way would be to use a collet with an endstop instead of the chuck. Then you can just push them in the collet so you are absolutely sure they will be centered and on length of the endstop. Then machine them to the final length by slowly moving towards the collet. The endstop can be pushed from the back of the machine so can probably be used again with adjustments from that side. But you will have to get or make a colletholder. I guess you drillchuck is not accurate enough?
My thoughts exactly - and as I don't have any collet of any size - I 3D printed the first " stop collet". I'd really want a batch process rather than one by one...
Thought about this for couple days. With only the equip you got I would tighten them up in a vise, up against a fixed stop, and side mille the ends to finished dimension? Thats all I got.
would have to see setup in actual action and securement, but horizontal allows movement out plus white plastic flex..don't think brass or steel that critical. I bet a grinder/surface grinder setup would be ideal taking off microns per pass. Not sure batch possible, but individually yes. I've a tool grinder, would put them in vice on it, introduce slowly to diamond or cup wheel.
Thank you..I will post a full video of the milling process. I think you are right about grinding, but I don't have a grinder - though I could grind these using the unimat... In theory.
How I would do it: - Keep the same revolver setup you already have but add a wedge in the middle so that once the tubes are inserted, you can lock all of them together. Also, make the tubes accessible from both the back and the front. -The backside of the revolver jig needs a shaft to put in the lathe. - Before installing, fill the tubes with hot glue or wax to make them more rigid and workable. - Turn the backside and front in the same setup.
If they're exactly the same diameter (within tenths) then a 5C, 3C, or MT collet with depth stop should be able to set the length for you. I use 3D printing with various materials around the shop but a hard steel collet is probably the ticket. I'm not so sure about the ball bearing. It could be OK but I suspect that the exact condition of the ID is casuing variation. There could be variation in the ID from one inch to the next. Also, you cut that end in a previous operation. Even deburring could be throwing you off. A flat (or shouldered) stop in a proper collet is what I would try. I don't mean anything negative about your work when I say "proper". I just mean that there are so many things that could go wrong and you may as well take advantage of 200 years of machine work experience. Make sure to hone your lathe tool, whether HSS or carbide, and use a finishing tool with a lot of positive rake. Otherwise, a vise stop on the mill should get you within a few tenths.
When milling start from the centre of tube and helically start to grind down the walls in small increments. Also, make a linear fixture to hold in the vice of Your milling machine, it makes it easier to achieve uniform z-distance and You already have a vice with known zero. If a jig is made from plastic and with some fancy compliant strategies, You can actually use the vice to deform the jig enough so every sleeve is held in place firmly, yet gently.
Good point. I can make a jig to hold the tubes from brass or aluminum but that means either doing it one by one (yes, that's the preferred machining way, and I fully agree with it) or I will have to glue the tubes in. I also agree that grinding the walls is better than milling (or may be a second step to milling). This does give me an idea - I can hold the fixture in a rotary table and rotate it as the milling/griding head is fixed. What do you think?
@@Smallathe You could try to print the fixture. But I think I misunderstood one aspect, I assumed You use a CNC not a manual milling machine, hence I suggested using spiral milling strategy starting from the inside and incrementally moving outwards (where tubes are fully supported by fixture). But using a fixture to hold tubes firmly and fine sandpaper disc should work also. thin walls mean You do not need to remove a lot of material to grind down few tenths. Alternatively, You could run Your rotary fixture on static sandpaper?
@@veikovasko5603 Hi. Thought you were referring to milling methods. In theory I could do that on the unimat as a mill - but it totally sucks as one. It vibrates like mad when everything is fixed solid (the round rod as a Z axis shaft and tiny base don't really help out). You are absolutely right - I am thinking of grinding :)
@@Smallathe since that is what you have, I would recommend making a pot that will locate accurately off the chuck face. Split it and use the 4 jaw to grip on the OD. The tube should be a close fit in the pot. Get a sharp tool and face from the inside to the outside. Make sure the tool has ample front rake. It can be neutral rake on top. Doing the work in a batch is problematic since you are limited in the sophistication of your workholding. A carbide threading tool that is rotated a little can be used for something like this. The better the pot repeats in the chuck, the better the result will be. 7 parts matched should go fast.
Inserting a close fitting rod into the tube should allow you to cut them without crushing, it as an alternative, you could hold a Dremel in your lathe tool holder and grind then with a cut off wheel
I actually made a dremel 3mm shank and 6mm shank tool to cut and mill on the lathe (and funny enough never used it) I'll give it a go. My worries about grinding is how to protect the ways. I"ll see what I can do about it. Thank you!!!
Maybe use a pen-makers barrel trimmer in the tail stock? I use one to accurately trim the brass tubes to exact length (they are encased in the square stock material which will form the barrel of the pen when turned down to round), Seems a crude method but works to produce the squared ends needed for the pen mechanisms to work, and to the correct length to allow the refill to protrude the right amount.
Collet lathe with a collet stop. Get a machinable 5C collet of the correct diameter and face it to length at the machine using a pin of some kind to set the length from the stop so you minimize deflection. Lock Z and get to machining.
Maybe put them in a line, not a circle, it will make a jig easier to make. Make the jig out of something more rigid that will deal with heat. Grind or saw to length with an abrasive blade.
Agreed. I thought of the endmill ever so slightly at an upright angle - so the bottom ones are ok but the rest are too long. I should point out the mill head was trammed and the endmill holder fits the endmill snuggly - yet that is a brass holder... I'll keep trying :)
how about using a jewelers circular saw, rather than a mill? One way: make a jig to hold your rotating " white revolver" on the cross slide, fix the arbor with the saw in the spindle. And then move your cross slide and rotate your revolver to cut the tubes (one at a time, I guess).
instead of clamping outside this thin wall stuff, you need to support inside, especially since SS is such a gummy and tough material that will work harden if you're too scared to make a cut steel expanding arbor (with a back stop machined in the arbor) in a lathe, use the tailstock center as a center and expander at the same time, you lock the carriage in the final length position, put a tube on the arbor, move tailstock in, lock, quill to put pressure, center and expand the arbor, and then just cut off to final size this way you never ever rechuck anything, no indicators, no Z movement, you just put a slightly too long tube on and cut to length with X slide, should be good enough to make hundreds of parts that will be +- couple hundreds of mm, definitely not tenths of mm between them and sharp carbide cutoff tool, not insert tooling, but something you sharped from a micrograin broken endmill, the problem with steel tools on SS is that you must take a cut, you can't rub, part will harden and burn the tool, hence carbide, but if the lathe is flimsy, then all this becomes 100x more difficult and I can't give any advice there
Such thin walled tiny tube is hard to proper cut and hold... If your workholding contraption is aligned properly on the machine and clamps properly and even +/-0.05mm should be easily doable imo. Like if you are indicating it and have 0.02mm deviation on the face of the brass backstop you gonna end up with 0.02mm difference in part lenght, if stuff isn't moving. The brass isn't really an issue, sure it will wear faster than steel but it will still last quite a bit. Even a 3D printed one will hold up a few batches if it doesn't get totally violated or too hot. The cutting is the funky part. If possible try to get a grinding attatchment (or 3D print a toolpost holder for a dremel or clamp it somehow) and grind em to lenght on the lathe with a disc in your holder. For milling the cutting forces gonna be too much and buckle or bend or pull out the pipes, same for the lathe, interrupted cuts in such parts are no bueno and might even wreak havoc on your holder if something goes south (i.e the insert snagging onto a dented pipe). On the lathe you could also put em in a collet or on a mandrel with a backstop but that only works for one part. I had issues with machining similar pipes, also stainless just bigger diameter but also very flimsy and freehand dremel'd it on my janky mini lathe, worked excellent. For deburring a wooden stick with a slit to hold fine sandpaper in it will safe your fingertips.
@Smallathe no problem brother happy to help. Boring them .002" to .005" under size from your stock OD should be enough to prevent 3 point contact and still avoid crushing. Let me know how it goes =)
This is not that hard if you have the right tools. Your mill is all wrong for this and making any kind of tooling with 3D printing is a no-go. It's extremely difficult to hold a batch of 8 accurately so probably not worth the effort. The lathe is the logical choice for best accuracy. You really need a 5c collet chuck with a stop installed inside the collet. They would only take a few seconds each to finish. A 3-jaw chuck will not repeat close enough even with the homemade collets. You never mentioned an acceptable tolerance, and there's no such thing as all exactly the same length. Unfortunately without the proper tools you are going to fight this.
Chevalier surface grinder, maybe. Cool to see such small material getting machined. Me i machine Giant Coal Haulers nothing small. Absolutely cool. MACHINIST FOR TRUMP WWG1WGA 🇺🇸
Thin wall tube is tough, it just wants to crush. When bending tubes like this the internal diameter needs to be supported with mandrel to avoid wall buckling. I would suggest using the fixture you made (steel base is probably a good idea) on the lathe again, but fill the tubes with wax (or similar lowish temp melting material) or a compacted fine powder (sand probably wouldn't be ideal on a machine tool). This can also help if you end up grinding instead of machining, just beware of getting the tubes hot enough to melt the wax or gumming up the wheel.
Excellent point. I can fill them with wax and go easy. Thanks!!! I also thought of grinding them as the setup with it's steel base is on the rotary table - so the grinding head is stationary but the tubes spin... Thank you!!!
I see you can't use 5C so; Make yourself a collet out of brass, drill and ream etc for a close fit for a single tube, make sure to only drill/bore deep enough that it creates a backstop/step allowing the tube to only protrude a small amount from the front face. You can then either cut three slots with a slitting saw or just a hacksaw (they both work) Its a quick cheap way to make custom collets with length stops built in. Then in terms of cutting, a VERY sharp tool. Grind a tool with a lot of side and back rake. I find that works best for thin wall tubing. Light cuts. If that still has issues crushing the tube, Id turn a brass rod insert a close fit to the tube inner diameter. Edit; alternatively consider using tailstock support and making a very thin sharp parting tool to trim the end to length close to the collet face for double support.
Wonderful tips. The collet making is exactly what I tried with the 3D printed version. Loved the internal support idea - I'm making a stainless collet (but I should have thought of brass... easier on the lathe) I'llput these tips to use. Thank you!
@@Smallathe Brass is a great material. Easy to use, strong, with care it will last for a really long time without wearing out. (I use a lot of homemade brass collets for my day to day work) Good luck!
Yeah, thin tube is hard to work with. With parts like this, I usually do a rough oversize cut, then install in the next assembly, then finish it as a part of the next assembly. (I.e. flush trim/grind). You might also try using a cutoff wheel mounted to a tool post, advancing inward towards the center of the rotating fixture. An abrasive disc exerts less force. Heat will still be an issue with a plastic fixture.
Make a small insert rod 3,95 and put it inside. You can make a small holder like the one you printed and in brass you can insert small inserts and secure them with thread m4. Or you can put the rod insert in the tube and do it on lathe
Does your locking screw on end stick out past tube's. If does what about making tubes stick out farther so u can machine them all in one pass on Mill laying on there side. Maybe idk. Throwing it at the wall 🧱. See what sticks
I have same machine as you (Unimat) and I can suggest one way. Take for example some 10mm brass rod about 2mm longer than the piece you want to machine. Then drill the hole with the diameter of the tube you want to machine to about 5mm from the end so that this would be your end stop for tubes. Then cut this made part along the long axis to about 3/4 so that when you tighten it in the chuck it will hold the tube firmly. The rod is 10mm so this means you have end stop when pushed into the chuck, because it has good 6mm hole through.this means that the tube inserted will always be in the same spot. It also helps if you have some end mill to square the bottom of the hole inside the brass rod. Then you just lock the carriage and cut each individual tube one by one.
Good point! I will give it a go. Same for turning using an indicator. I think milling would be better, much like yourself. I'll try it. Thanks!!!
I guess the easiest way would be to use a collet with an endstop instead of the chuck. Then you can just push them in the collet so you are absolutely sure they will be centered and on length of the endstop. Then machine them to the final length by slowly moving towards the collet.
The endstop can be pushed from the back of the machine so can probably be used again with adjustments from that side.
But you will have to get or make a colletholder.
I guess you drillchuck is not accurate enough?
My thoughts exactly - and as I don't have any collet of any size - I 3D printed the first " stop collet".
I'd really want a batch process rather than one by one...
Thought about this for couple days. With only the equip you got I would tighten them up in a vise, up against a fixed stop, and side mille the ends to finished dimension? Thats all I got.
Thanks Mike!!! Much appreciated! I did tighten them - using a hand press, just because the 3D printing won't last once if you crunch on it...
would have to see setup in actual action and securement, but horizontal allows movement out plus white plastic flex..don't think brass or steel that critical. I bet a grinder/surface grinder setup would be ideal taking off microns per pass. Not sure batch possible, but individually yes. I've a tool grinder, would put them in vice on it, introduce slowly to diamond or cup wheel.
Thank you..I will post a full video of the milling process. I think you are right about grinding, but I don't have a grinder - though I could grind these using the unimat... In theory.
How I would do it:
- Keep the same revolver setup you already have but add a wedge in the middle so that once the tubes are inserted, you can lock all of them together. Also, make the tubes accessible from both the back and the front.
-The backside of the revolver jig needs a shaft to put in the lathe.
- Before installing, fill the tubes with hot glue or wax to make them more rigid and workable.
- Turn the backside and front in the same setup.
Neat idea indeed!
Thank you!
Now to design a locking setup :)
If they're exactly the same diameter (within tenths) then a 5C, 3C, or MT collet with depth stop should be able to set the length for you. I use 3D printing with various materials around the shop but a hard steel collet is probably the ticket. I'm not so sure about the ball bearing. It could be OK but I suspect that the exact condition of the ID is casuing variation. There could be variation in the ID from one inch to the next. Also, you cut that end in a previous operation. Even deburring could be throwing you off. A flat (or shouldered) stop in a proper collet is what I would try. I don't mean anything negative about your work when I say "proper". I just mean that there are so many things that could go wrong and you may as well take advantage of 200 years of machine work experience. Make sure to hone your lathe tool, whether HSS or carbide, and use a finishing tool with a lot of positive rake. Otherwise, a vise stop on the mill should get you within a few tenths.
Awesome points. Thank you!
I can't use a 5c collet - it's huge compared to the unimat. I did start making my own metal holder. I'll give it a go. :)
Make the brass stop out of steel, then try surface grinding if you can. Or outsource to a shop with a wire edm
Wire EDM would be ideal ... Same for.a steel base. Thank you!
When milling start from the centre of tube and helically start to grind down the walls in small increments. Also, make a linear fixture to hold in the vice of Your milling machine, it makes it easier to achieve uniform z-distance and You already have a vice with known zero. If a jig is made from plastic and with some fancy compliant strategies, You can actually use the vice to deform the jig enough so every sleeve is held in place firmly, yet gently.
Good point. I can make a jig to hold the tubes from brass or aluminum but that means either doing it one by one (yes, that's the preferred machining way, and I fully agree with it) or I will have to glue the tubes in. I also agree that grinding the walls is better than milling (or may be a second step to milling). This does give me an idea - I can hold the fixture in a rotary table and rotate it as the milling/griding head is fixed. What do you think?
@@Smallathe You could try to print the fixture. But I think I misunderstood one aspect, I assumed You use a CNC not a manual milling machine, hence I suggested using spiral milling strategy starting from the inside and incrementally moving outwards (where tubes are fully supported by fixture). But using a fixture to hold tubes firmly and fine sandpaper disc should work also. thin walls mean You do not need to remove a lot of material to grind down few tenths. Alternatively, You could run Your rotary fixture on static sandpaper?
@@veikovasko5603 Hi. Thought you were referring to milling methods. In theory I could do that on the unimat as a mill - but it totally sucks as one. It vibrates like mad when everything is fixed solid (the round rod as a Z axis shaft and tiny base don't really help out). You are absolutely right - I am thinking of grinding :)
You only have a 3 jaw, correct? What series of CRES (Stainless) is this?
I have self centering three jaws, self centering four jaws and a regular independent four jaw. It's 304 stainless steel. Thanks!
@@Smallathe since that is what you have, I would recommend making a pot that will locate accurately off the chuck face. Split it and use the 4 jaw to grip on the OD. The tube should be a close fit in the pot. Get a sharp tool and face from the inside to the outside. Make sure the tool has ample front rake. It can be neutral rake on top. Doing the work in a batch is problematic since you are limited in the sophistication of your workholding. A carbide threading tool that is rotated a little can be used for something like this. The better the pot repeats in the chuck, the better the result will be. 7 parts matched should go fast.
Inserting a close fitting rod into the tube should allow you to cut them without crushing, it as an alternative, you could hold a Dremel in your lathe tool holder and grind then with a cut off wheel
I actually made a dremel 3mm shank and 6mm shank tool to cut and mill on the lathe (and funny enough never used it) I'll give it a go. My worries about grinding is how to protect the ways. I"ll see what I can do about it. Thank you!!!
@@Smallathe pretty common to cover the ways with either cloth, or use aluminum foil
@@jginsberg1 right. I'll seewhat I can do. Thanks!
Maybe use a pen-makers barrel trimmer in the tail stock? I use one to accurately trim the brass tubes to exact length (they are encased in the square stock material which will form the barrel of the pen when turned down to round), Seems a crude method but works to produce the squared ends needed for the pen mechanisms to work, and to the correct length to allow the refill to protrude the right amount.
Interesting idea. Any chance of seeing your setup?
Collet lathe with a collet stop. Get a machinable 5C collet of the correct diameter and face it to length at the machine using a pin of some kind to set the length from the stop so you minimize deflection. Lock Z and get to machining.
Awesome answer. Thank you! I would, but the unimat lathe is keyboard size and it's the only one I have. The chuck holds up to 2" max od... ;)
Maybe put them in a line, not a circle, it will make a jig easier to make. Make the jig out of something more rigid that will deal with heat. Grind or saw to length with an abrasive blade.
My guess is that the mill is lifting the tubes out of the holder as it mills the ends.
Agreed. I thought of the endmill ever so slightly at an upright angle - so the bottom ones are ok but the rest are too long. I should point out the mill head was trammed and the endmill holder fits the endmill snuggly - yet that is a brass holder... I'll keep trying :)
@@Smallathethere is also endmills with reverse flute that pushes part downward
@@dadobojanic very cool... I'll look for those. Thank you!
how about using a jewelers circular saw, rather than a mill? One way: make a jig to hold your rotating " white revolver" on the cross slide, fix the arbor with the saw in the spindle. And then move your cross slide and rotate your revolver to cut the tubes (one at a time, I guess).
Good one! I thought of cutting while turning as well. That's definitely an option. Thank you!
instead of clamping outside this thin wall stuff, you need to support inside, especially since SS is such a gummy and tough material that will work harden if you're too scared to make a cut
steel expanding arbor (with a back stop machined in the arbor) in a lathe, use the tailstock center as a center and expander at the same time, you lock the carriage in the final length position, put a tube on the arbor, move tailstock in, lock, quill to put pressure, center and expand the arbor, and then just cut off to final size
this way you never ever rechuck anything, no indicators, no Z movement, you just put a slightly too long tube on and cut to length with X slide, should be good enough to make hundreds of parts that will be +- couple hundreds of mm, definitely not tenths of mm between them
and sharp carbide cutoff tool, not insert tooling, but something you sharped from a micrograin broken endmill, the problem with steel tools on SS is that you must take a cut, you can't rub, part will harden and burn the tool, hence carbide, but if the lathe is flimsy, then all this becomes 100x more difficult and I can't give any advice there
Excellent points. I'll give it a go and try. Thank you!!!
Once your work holding is good maybe mill them close and grind them for the final length?
Very good point. I will order a grinding wheel...
Such thin walled tiny tube is hard to proper cut and hold... If your workholding contraption is aligned properly on the machine and clamps properly and even +/-0.05mm should be easily doable imo. Like if you are indicating it and have 0.02mm deviation on the face of the brass backstop you gonna end up with 0.02mm difference in part lenght, if stuff isn't moving. The brass isn't really an issue, sure it will wear faster than steel but it will still last quite a bit. Even a 3D printed one will hold up a few batches if it doesn't get totally violated or too hot. The cutting is the funky part. If possible try to get a grinding attatchment (or 3D print a toolpost holder for a dremel or clamp it somehow) and grind em to lenght on the lathe with a disc in your holder. For milling the cutting forces gonna be too much and buckle or bend or pull out the pipes, same for the lathe, interrupted cuts in such parts are no bueno and might even wreak havoc on your holder if something goes south (i.e
the insert snagging onto a dented pipe). On the lathe you could also put em in a collet or on a mandrel with a backstop but that only works for one part. I had issues with machining similar pipes, also stainless just bigger diameter but also very flimsy and freehand dremel'd it on my janky mini lathe, worked excellent. For deburring a wooden stick with a slit to hold fine sandpaper in it will safe your fingertips.
Awesome tips! Thank you!
I will look into grinding them to final specifications.
@@Smallathe Don't forget to throw some protection onto your lathe's ways to keep the grinding particles off and good luck!
Make some aluminum pie jaws with a shoulder to refrance against and do them on a lathe
Oh... Good idea! Why didn't I think of that!!! Thanks!!!
@Smallathe no problem brother happy to help.
Boring them .002" to .005" under size from your stock OD should be enough to prevent 3 point contact and still avoid crushing. Let me know how it goes =)
@@djacques7912 Thanks mate! Will do! Much appreciated!
Good luck
This is not that hard if you have the right tools. Your mill is all wrong for this and making any kind of tooling with 3D printing is a no-go. It's extremely difficult to hold a batch of 8 accurately so probably not worth the effort. The lathe is the logical choice for best accuracy. You really need a 5c collet chuck with a stop installed inside the collet. They would only take a few seconds each to finish. A 3-jaw chuck will not repeat close enough even with the homemade collets. You never mentioned an acceptable tolerance, and there's no such thing as all exactly the same length. Unfortunately without the proper tools you are going to fight this.
Seconding this, collet for an easy win. He did mention the tolerance was .05mm at one point, but I could tell if that was +/- or total window.
Chevalier surface grinder, maybe. Cool to see such small material getting machined. Me i machine Giant Coal Haulers nothing small. Absolutely cool. MACHINIST FOR TRUMP WWG1WGA 🇺🇸
Oh... I wish... The unimat can grind .. I am thinking of this. Found some 2" 50mm diamond wheels ... Thanks!!!