Very clear video but I have one question. I’m having trouble leveling points 2 and 3 even at the lowest setting on the z-axis and the highest seething on the plate. The nozzle just doesn’t reach the plate.
thanks a lot!! was in and out playing with this kp3 printer but couldn't print anything cause I never tight the screws form the z axis ja.. (shame on me) but today I took the tame the verified all pieces following your vid and viola thanks sir!!!!
39:20 I'm here listening to your video and having a hard time leveling my bed when I hear "...how quiet is this...well it's no louder than a rabbit's fart..." I thought "what??" Had to back up the video to make sure I heard correctly. That was so funny that 10 minutes later I'm still laughing.
Thanks, Roger. I am a complete nube when it comes to 3D printing. My Kingroon KP3S Pro arrived today and your video answered several questions that the less than helpful manual failed to cover.
Hello. Please tell me. I bought T-ABS FULCRUM. KingroonKP3Pro printer, ultrabase table. I couldn’t even print anything before tearing it off. 260/100 the printer hangs (probably it’s hard for it to heat up like that) if 250/90, then instead of a layer of crumbs. as if the nozzle was clogged. Is it even possible to print with this plastic on this printer? I hope so, but how???
You mention a dry box to store filament when not in use. What type do you use? A purpose built filament dry box or one that is suitable for multiple uses (waterproof, marine specific, ammo. etc.).
I use a waterproof, airtight, gasketed tote to store opened rolls and there are several paks of desiccant in with them. Works very well, even in our super humid summers. Even with this, I still put the roll to be used in a Sunlu dryer for 3-6 hours before loading. The tote I use is actually partly visible to my left, setting on the floor with a cardboard box on top of it.
Thank you for this. You are very thorough. I was having a heck of a time trying to set it up with just their paper instructions so your video saved me!
nice vid, Wish you had provided "Links" to the tools you were using (not included). I want the ones used on those 2mm & 3mm bits ( @ the3:29 mark)? The "Ball Driver ?" and "ball driver?", used to connect the "Z" access "Gantry" ? I could not find them on Amz. or their description (IMHO) did not match yours ? If anyone can tell me where I can find them on Amz, HD or LW pls do ? Do they also come in a small set, of 2-5mm sizes or something like that. I think a very small set, of them will come in handy.
@@rogersshopTranslation is: "T-nuts should be placed HORIZONTALLY. They are used to tighten the gantry to the printer base. When installed vertically (as in the video) they are USELESS". It's 4:06 on the video.
@@rogersshop Bardzo proszę o tą modyfikację. Za kilka dni będę miał KP3S Pro S1 i chciałbym wydrukować pasujący uchwyt bo Twój mi się najbardziej podoba. Sam nie umiem jeszcze projektować. Pozdrawiam i czekam niecierpliwie.
@@rogersshop This is Polish :-) I thought google would translate for you :-) In English: I am asking for this modification. In a few days I will have a KP3S Pro S1 and I would like to print a matching holder because I like yours the most. I can't design yet. I guess it's enough to modify the base so that the holes for the screws are printed? Regards and waiting impatiently.
Great video, would you please shear that top spool holder design? Their are lots for the KP3S but It’s the first I’ve seen for the KP3S Pro, thank you 😊
The design I used is meant for the KP3S and I modified the top mount to fit the factory tapped holes. I did finally bypass the runout sensor and just put a piece of "dummy" filament in it. At some point, I might design a different mount for the sensor to put it more in a direct path.
Great Video! Thank you for explaining things great for a newbie! You said do not buy crappy filament. On Amazon what do you buy?
Overture PLA+, Tec Bear, Sunlu.
Very clear video but I have one question.
I’m having trouble leveling points 2 and 3 even at the lowest setting on the z-axis and the highest seething on the plate. The nozzle just doesn’t reach the plate.
Is your baseplate bent? Place a straightedge across it. Should be no gaps.
Nice video ✨ thank you
Thank you for this super comprehensive tutorial! Huge help for my very first 3D print, I appreciate you!!
thanks a lot!! was in and out playing with this kp3 printer but couldn't print anything cause I never tight the screws form the z axis ja.. (shame on me) but today I took the tame the verified all pieces following your vid and viola thanks sir!!!!
39:20 I'm here listening to your video and having a hard time leveling my bed when I hear "...how quiet is this...well it's no louder than a rabbit's fart..." I thought "what??" Had to back up the video to make sure I heard correctly. That was so funny that 10 minutes later I'm still laughing.
Anyone purchase this printer and have the print head arm be canted? The nozzle on mine is 3-4mm high on the right side of the bed than the left.
Thanks, Roger. I am a complete nube when it comes to 3D printing. My Kingroon KP3S Pro arrived today and your video answered several questions that the less than helpful manual failed to cover.
Hello. Please tell me. I bought T-ABS FULCRUM. KingroonKP3Pro printer, ultrabase table. I couldn’t even print anything before tearing it off. 260/100 the printer hangs (probably it’s hard for it to heat up like that) if 250/90, then instead of a layer of crumbs. as if the nozzle was clogged. Is it even possible to print with this plastic on this printer? I hope so, but how???
I don't use ABS, so can't help you out here. Most of what we print is in PLA Plus or PLA Professional.
You mention a dry box to store filament when not in use. What type do you use? A purpose built filament dry box or one that is suitable for multiple uses (waterproof, marine specific, ammo. etc.).
I use a waterproof, airtight, gasketed tote to store opened rolls and there are several paks of desiccant in with them. Works very well, even in our super humid summers. Even with this, I still put the roll to be used in a Sunlu dryer for 3-6 hours before loading. The tote I use is actually partly visible to my left, setting on the floor with a cardboard box on top of it.
Thanks. This is the best review on this printer. And the best instruction for beginners 3D printing. Thanks from Russia.
My son said the teeny tiny ball bearings fell out. We think we found them all. Do you happen to know how many there were or if we need to replace it?
I do not know the count. Odd that they could come out............
Thank you for this. You are very thorough. I was having a heck of a time trying to set it up with just their paper instructions so your video saved me!
nice vid,
Wish you had provided "Links" to the tools you were using (not included). I want the ones used on those 2mm & 3mm bits ( @ the3:29 mark)? The "Ball Driver ?" and "ball driver?", used to connect the "Z" access "Gantry" ? I could not find them on Amz. or their description (IMHO) did not match yours ? If anyone can tell me where I can find them on Amz, HD or LW pls do ? Do they also come in a small set, of 2-5mm sizes or something like that. I think a very small set, of them will come in handy.
I have several sets of different brands accumulated over the years. Here is one of them: amzn.to/3LpGmeL
@@rogersshop Thx (& subcribed)
Most detailed video I watched so far. Thank you ! :)
thank a lot from Ukraine!!
Great video, Printer runs great now! thanks for the detailed instructions
Т-образные гайки ставятся ГОРИЗОНТАЛЬНО! Они должны притянуть мачту к корпусу. При вертикальной установке (как в твоём видео) они БЕЗПОЛЕЗНЫ!!!
I understand English and Spanish. This, not so much
@@rogersshopTranslation is: "T-nuts should be placed HORIZONTALLY. They are used to tighten the gantry to the printer base. When installed vertically (as in the video) they are USELESS". It's 4:06 on the video.
Great video. I noticed that you did not peel the plastic off of the aluminum build plate. Was that on purpose?
Not necessary unless putting on a PEI bed, which I did on the upgrade I recently made: ua-cam.com/video/bEY0-blGlck/v-deo.html
Could you give me link for this filament holder to Pro Version? This green :-)
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4800129 REQUIRES modification: ua-cam.com/video/bHPoJ64qYxY/v-deo.html A more detailed video on one of these is coming soon.
@@rogersshop Bardzo proszę o tą modyfikację. Za kilka dni będę miał KP3S Pro S1 i chciałbym wydrukować pasujący uchwyt bo Twój mi się najbardziej podoba. Sam nie umiem jeszcze projektować. Pozdrawiam i czekam niecierpliwie.
@@norbert5144 what language is this? I do English and Spanish.....(limited)
@@rogersshop This is Polish :-)
I thought google would translate for you :-)
In English:
I am asking for this modification. In a few days I will have a KP3S Pro S1 and I would like to print a matching holder because I like yours the most. I can't design yet.
I guess it's enough to modify the base so that the holes for the screws are printed?
Regards and waiting impatiently.
@@norbert5144 Email me to raltman57@gmail.com and I will send you the modified STL files. You will still need to drill your own matching holes.
Thanks for the video. Don't you have to remove the "green" plastic covering the heat bed? 09:05
No, and it does not come off. I tried to see.
Great video, would you please shear that top spool holder design? Their are lots for the KP3S but It’s the first I’ve seen for the KP3S Pro, thank you 😊
The design I used is meant for the KP3S and I modified the top mount to fit the factory tapped holes. I did finally bypass the runout sensor and just put a piece of "dummy" filament in it. At some point, I might design a different mount for the sensor to put it more in a direct path.
@@rogersshop can you share it?
@@slowjamer I'm making a video soon on how I did this.
We are waiting to see it!
@@MrGarafe Goes up on December 4, but here is a sneak peek: ua-cam.com/video/bHPoJ64qYxY/v-deo.html
Excellent video, thank you
I'm having a huge issue with stringing. I dont know what to fo anymore