@@TunerwithKids thanks Bình. Debating if I should go with extended studs since I may use 5mm spacers down the line, but unsure if my aftermarket lug nuts (project kics r40 iconix) is long enough. A tire shop messed up most of the studs, so they’ll replace it free of charge.
Like the content but I feel strongly that brakes/tires/wheel studs should not be the thing someone skimps out on... IE: The wheel studs are what is keeping your wheel from flying off the car. Yes, ARP is expensive but at the same time they've been around, and you know it's an actual manufacture making something to a true spec. Compare that to a company selling something that looks similar on eBay... there's no information/specs other than what's stamped on the bolt. Which you are hoping is accurate and not something that's copied but made in china...etc. Hope nothing happens later on but the risk is way too large to me to not go with ARP/H&R...etc. Known good brands.
I went with 1320 and no problems here. 1320 makes great stuff and is legit 10.9 grade so idk what to say to you. No need to be a brand princess my guy, my $170 Detroit axle brakes work great on my daily driver. Key word, daily driver. It’s a cruiser not a race car!
@@IxTechNiK You do you. Spending a couple hundred dollars knowing I'm getting something that's quality is a cheap mod. If or when something happens it's going to be far more expensive to repair then just buying the better quality item from the start. I'm all for saving money in places but again, something that's directly related to safety, I'm not going to skip out on. I'm glad yours are working out for you.
Love your content. Keep up the great work.
Doesn’t like bolt on spacers, buys eBay studs….😂
Always love these videos man.
What diameter do your brake disc have to fit Z17?
Were you able to remove your bbk without removing the pads in the caliper? Or do you need to do the entire thing kind of like a brake job
Easier to pull out pads especially is they dig a lip into the rotors.
Do you know the standard length of the factory studs and did you go with 50mm or 60mm extended studs? Thanks!
I installed 50mm. I think OEM is 20 or 25mm. I'm using 20mm spacers so it was perfect.
@@TunerwithKids thanks Bình. Debating if I should go with extended studs since I may use 5mm spacers down the line, but unsure if my aftermarket lug nuts (project kics r40 iconix) is long enough. A tire shop messed up most of the studs, so they’ll replace it free of charge.
Can you do a video on the rear? There isn’t that many good videos on ppl doing the rears
I’m not but it’s the same process except you have to remove brakes and rotors
@@TunerwithKidsand the handbrake module... it's in the way.
question, what are some good sway bar links for 2is? or will i have to buy OEM?
Check FIGS to see what the have.
Hell nah this dude talking abt safety but gets EBay stuff🤣🤣
I read the reviews and feedback. Was good enough for me. Figured it was better than the adapters studs.
you plan on doing the rears?
Not at the moment. I don’t need for rear, I only needed a 3mm in the rear. So the stock studs are enough.
An air hammer is much less violent. Brrrrt and it off
Like the content but I feel strongly that brakes/tires/wheel studs should not be the thing someone skimps out on... IE: The wheel studs are what is keeping your wheel from flying off the car. Yes, ARP is expensive but at the same time they've been around, and you know it's an actual manufacture making something to a true spec. Compare that to a company selling something that looks similar on eBay... there's no information/specs other than what's stamped on the bolt. Which you are hoping is accurate and not something that's copied but made in china...etc. Hope nothing happens later on but the risk is way too large to me to not go with ARP/H&R...etc. Known good brands.
I went with 1320 and no problems here. 1320 makes great stuff and is legit 10.9 grade so idk what to say to you. No need to be a brand princess my guy, my $170 Detroit axle brakes work great on my daily driver. Key word, daily driver. It’s a cruiser not a race car!
@@IxTechNiK You do you. Spending a couple hundred dollars knowing I'm getting something that's quality is a cheap mod. If or when something happens it's going to be far more expensive to repair then just buying the better quality item from the start.
I'm all for saving money in places but again, something that's directly related to safety, I'm not going to skip out on. I'm glad yours are working out for you.