Once again Dony you are the best, I came on youtube, asking how to store a snowblower for the summer, and BANG there you again at my rescue. I am such a fan of yours - saving me time and money - I now own three snowblowers as I have a snow removal company, Thanks for giving me the brains to fix my machines on the fly. Folks... I feel DONYBOY should have his own TV SHOW... I'll see if I can come up and make a website to have you folks vote on getting Dony on TV. This man is so helpful to us. Dony Thank you ever so much for taking the time and show us dummies how to fix the simple things and making the harder things so easy to fix. -Cheers Dony-
Just want to thanks for the videos you do. My Snowblower auger broke at the weld over the winter and it was you who taught me how to remove the front of my snow-blower from the engine so I could fit it in my jeep and get it welded. And now - how to store it properly. Thanks so much.
I was told many years ago by the local shop I purchased my blower from was to run the unit throughout the off season. So ever three or so weeks I start the unit and let it run, all year long. My unit is 18 years old and this approach has worked. I do grease, change the oil and use the gas stabilizer year round. I have tried storing my unit and it has caused me carb. issues in the past.
Great video. I store all my small gas engines dry of fuel, including my generators, and I never have any trouble starting them up even after months of storage. I also spray down all the sheet metal and auger/impeller on my snowblower with Rustcheck before putting it away for the summer.
Thanks for the info.. just bought new snowblower and was looking for that type of info.. Cost me a small fortune and want to protect it.. Thanks again, your the best :-)
I run the machines dry. Nice tip on angling the spray into cylinder head. You reminded me to finish installing fuel shut offs on the rest of my stuff. Thank you, Steve, Plymouth, MA
I have a plane that flies with two radios and a bunch of plane parts and motors, goggles ect. I just don't have the time to play anymore. I am going to list the whole lot soon. BTW, great videos, you sure know your stuff.
great tips, another reason for storing your small 4 stroke engine in compression is so all the valves are closed and no moisture or critters can get in.
Great stuff donyboy yet again, I usually use fogging oil in the cylinder the same way you do and replace the spark plug with a new at this time, and I also drain the gas rather then burning it all up, and save a tiny bit to run with fuel stabilizer and seafoam in the fuel, just cleans up some gunk in the cylinders and what not
@@donyboy73 question have you ever had a neighbor complain when you are running your machines trying to adjust rpm? I don't have a shop I work out of my garage and had a neighbor say something to me today. Said he will call the town bc he is tired of hearing my machines. I don't turn them on before 11am and never after 5pm. When I do turn them on it is only for short periods of time. I know you are super busy I just want to know if it's illegal to do small engine repair out of my garage?
Jon , I change mine at the end of the winter and put new oil in , this way if there moisture from snow that may have got in the old oil goes out with oil . But be sure to run the motor so the old oil will drain . turn it over a few times with new oil and fog it .
Another handy thing on older tecumseh engines is there is a spring loaded drain on the bowl of the carb. The hondas and chinese engines have a drain bolt as well.
I have a Husqvarna 125 dirt bike. Considering it is a 2 stroke motor, is it ok for me to run the carb dry prior to storage or should I remove the plug under the carb and manually drain it? She runs a little lean before running dry and I don't want to damage the motor due to insufficient oil. Also, do you recommend fogging it? I have never fogged it and it has been stored for several years at a time. Thanks a lot for the great videos. Cheers from Illinois.
Donyboy73 I have been used 89 octane and on every gas fillup for for 2 1/2 gallon container I put some star tron inside with fresh gas. For both my Honda and my ariens I always put the gas inside the fuel tank, let it run for few minutes, turn off fuel shutoff and let it die on its own, with a full tank of gas with star tron. Think this method will be okay? Thanks for your great videos!
Is it possible to install from the new Ariens 28 about caterpillars to the old caterpillar model 824 years old in 2008, and if possible, what is needed for this.?
This sounds like similar advice for winter storage of a motorcycle. I've heard both schools of thought regarding the question about leaving the gas tank full, with Stabil, vs empty and run dry. My bike has a steel gas tank and I worry about rust inside, so I've usually stored it full. Strangely, both methods seem to work.
After draining the fuel and fogging the cyclinder, would it be ok to store the snowblower in the service position (standing on the front end)? It seems like it would take up less space in my garage that way.
Hey man nice tip.No snow blowers here though.Having a big problem with gasoline.The alcohol content in the gasoline much more than the 10% that they say.I know u probably use fuel line TYGON that has served me just fine in the past.I replaced the fuel lines on a Bolens BL100 trimmer and in 24hrs. the line that goes up through the tank had hardened,and begun to leak.Have u heard anything about the alcohol in gasoline and is there a more better fuel line than Tygon now a days.Thanks man
The mixing ratio for stabilizer is normally about 300 to 1 so it looks like you put enough stabil in the gas tank to treat about 9 litres of fuel. The only blower I've seen with a proper carburetor drain is the Honda. Some carburetors have a plug at the bottom of the bowl that you can loosen but it also contains the needle for the main jet so draining the fuel could cause a problem with the jet adjustment. The Honda even has a separate sediment trap that you are supposed to clean out. None seem to have an easy to use fuel tank drain system. Other things to do before putting it to bed. 1. Check all fasteners and tighten as necessary; 2. Change the engine oil, that way its sitting in fresh oil not old used oil; 3. Touch up any paint chips; 4. Clean and wax all metal except the engine; 5. Grease gun to all zerks, especially the auger rakes which shold also be rotated after greasing; 6. Oil all bushings and anywhere else the manual states. 7. Store with the weight off of the tires. You can normally get a manual from the manufacturer's web site.
Due to the changes in fuel formulation and the affects it has on small engines, once the fuel is drained from the tank and carburetor, is there a solution (perhaps alcohol) you'd recommend to run through the tank and carburetor?
Great video. My craftsman snowblower 4 years old nothing has been fixed on it as of yet.Started surging this year with small backfires once and a while. The surge and backfire happens when coming out of being under load. (running with no snow to move)(turning around) (surges not as noticeable under heavy load,no backfire) can you help. Thanks.
Hi Dony, thanks for the video. Consider showing people where to grease prior to storage in the same video. I also spray my Honda 928 with Rust Check twice a year too. Take care...
Donyboy One question . Do change the oil at this time or wait and do it just before you are going to use it . Personaly I change mine when I put it away for the summer , then before I use it I check it as well as change the spark plug .WHAT DO YOU DO ??
Wow, did a google search to determine how to store my snowblower over the summer and I got this. Lucky me. Now if only I had you when I stored my lawnmower over the winter with fuel in it. After 3 years I am afraid it can't be resuscitated.
Good video. I run my machines dry and put it away. All my gas machines. And if you use stabilizer too you shouldn't have startup problems when it's time to use it next season.
So you just leave the used, old oil in the motor? Then change it next season? That's what I've always done anyways. But now that I think of it, is that a good idea? Would it be a good idea to drain the oil at the end of the season as well as the gas? Probably not? Because then you risk the chance of parts not being covered in oil and rusting or getting moisture on them. Or maybe it would be a better idea to just change the oil at the end of the season. If i did that, would that be smart? or no
FWIW, the recommendation to store the engine while on the compression stroke is to ensure the valves are closed; the position of the piston isn't as much of a concern. After all, while you can feel you are on the compression stroke, you really don't have an easy way to tell if you are actually at TDC or not. Anyway, keep up the good work!
Great vid, I pretty well followed your instructions to a tee, as most of this is already outlined in my Craftsmans manual. One thing was different, Instead of what you did with the engine storage spray for the cylinder, it said put an ounce of clean engine oil inside prior to replacing the spark plug. I did that, and got a bit of smoke. I'm a bit of a novice, but is that common practice with some manufacturers? Thanks.
Awesome video. Can you do one on a Husqvarna? I am a woman, and don’t have a lot of experience with this, but I want to eep it in tip top shape after this coming winter.
I poured motor oil in my spark plug hole instead of buying fogging oil. I used too much. About an ounce. It squirted out of the hole when the starter rope was pulled and the rope wouldn't pull if the plug was installed. I put some gas in the hole and pulled the cord to get as much to squirt out as possible. It worked after that, but smoked. I looked at the plug again and it was dirty (wet with oil) Will running it more help dry out the cylinder? Should I replace the plug? Seems like a new one will just get covered in oil too. Any other way to clean it out? Thanks
Hi Dony. What I do is put enough fresh gas in to let the machine run for about 3 to 5 minutes and start it every two to three weeks in the summer. Is that a good idea?
Yeah, I also close the fuel shutoff valve and run the motor dry (mowers and blowers.) my grandpa's riding mower was stored all winter and I'm gonna post a video soon of the cold start. It was the first pull of the year and it starts right up!!
Dony , are not wered there may be moiture from snow in the oil. As I have done with my boat motor i fall .I do all I can to keep moisture out of the motor .
I personally store my equipment with a mix of both Marine (blue) and Standard (red) Sta-Bil. The blue helps ethanol. For what it is worth, I confirmed this method as preferable with Gold Eagle, who makes it. I also drain the carbs as noted below. To those who merely drain the fuel without stabilizer, be aware that such does NOT get the fuel out of the carb bowl, which can and will still turn to mush or worse, especially with ethanol. To prevent this one must drain the carb bowl, which on many models has a drain button or screw. My Honda generators, for example, have dedicated carb drain plugs. This said, I store my equipment with stabilized fuel as I intend to use it within a several month period. If, however, one needs to store equipment for over a year I suggest , and as Honda recommends, that stabilized fuel be run through the system and then drained. Be aware that storing metal gas tanks empty can eventually cause rust.
I wouldn't bother with the engine storage spray unless you think it might be more than a year before its next use. If your fuel tank is metal, then store it with a full tank of stabilized gas. If it's plastic then you can do the same OR can just drain it. Reason is that the metal tank will rust inside if left empty. Apologies if he mentions this in the video, I don't have any audio so I don't know what he's saying in the vid.
One thing that I always don is to cover a cement block with newspaper and then rest the snow blower on it so the wheels are not touching the floor. A snow blower tends to stay in one place for long periods this way there will be no flat spots on the tyres
hi .. excuse me for my ignorant questions.. if we just had the snowblower oil changed in January.. and we are storing it for the summer.. our fuel tank is empty.. do we have to do that spark plug spray thing part?
Usually after every use i shut off the fuel valve, and let the engines run dry until dead. Even after doing this i still end up cleaning the fuel bowls out every year which is not a big deal because it usually takes a few minutes anyways.
Running the machine "DRY" is the best method by far.. I also run all of my machines at least once every 2 months for about 15 min. To check on proper operations. Generators, Mowers, Snowblowers, ect. Nothing worse than needing a machine; only to find it will not start or run property. Expecting "Big Snowstorm" here on Monday, I'm off to the garage to make sure the Snowblower runs property. An ounce of prevention you know!
Running your machine "dry" is the prefer method. but it is far more beneficial if you just remove the gas tank and drain it off instead of running the engine until you run out of gas. It save you money and makes you a green thumb.
+Robert Mitchum The pin in the carborator can get damaged because old fuel still sits around the bowl even after draining the carborator. It will slowly suck gas from the tank. It ends up being varnish from old fuel and leads to problems. No old fuel should be in tank.
If you're going to go the "DRY" method, you might as well empty/drain the tank as well. Running that old ethanol riddled gas next season isn't doing you any good. Better to run fresh gas if you're going the extra mile to keep things in good shape i.e. putting in more storage effort than dumping in some fuel stabilizer.
You should also drain or remove the float bowl, clean and spray with penetrating oil to keep it from rusting inside. Running the engine until it quits does not totally drain the float bowl. Shell Premium in Ontario is Ethanol free.
I always have gas with stabilizer in it already, plus I leave my tank full of stabilized gas that is the best way to store it. Plus checking the air jet in the carburetor is a good idea to make sure it isn’t clogged. I would fog the engine as well as put fog in the spark plug hole. Last but not least of course you want to change your oil.
Dony what about this routine?: Warm up the engine and run it at stationary, fog the engine with fogging oil through the carburator until the engine dies, then you may assume there is enough protection inside the system to last the whole winter. That is how I treat my boat motor as well.
also is the fuel tank and engine tank different? i am definitely confused on which people are referring to in regards to the fuel oil check or engine dip stick check. please let me know
fuel tank is only for gas, no engine tank. where the dip stick is that is the engine oil level. if you changed the oil in January then you probably don't need to change it again.
I must say... there are some individuals, that should always take their equipment needing repairs to the professionals. they should never attempt DIY projects for the safety of the rest of us.
James amador I would love to do that every year but at $100+ for simple maintenance it doesn't seem to be quite worth it if we simpletons could find a way to do it ourselves.
Only needs a couple of cc/mls of engine oil in the cylinder to coat it....put the spark plug back in ...then DISCONNECT the spark plug lead so it will NOT spark and pull the manual starter cord s couple of times...this will disperse the oil across the surface of the cylinder. When you fire it up again it will most likely smoke for a few seconds as it burns off the oil...no problem. If you put too much oil in the cylinderr...remove the spark plug ....disconnect it from the lead...loosely cover spark plug opening with an old rag then depress the electric start for a couple of seconds ....excess oil will be forced out of spark plug opening...DO NOT LOOK DOWN THE HOLE WHEN DEPRESSING THE STARTER BUTTON.
I have a 2.5 gallon fuel container to store my ETHANOL FREE gasoline for use on all my power equipment. I add the Standard-Bil to it when I fill it up at the pump. I have never had any engine problems running Ethanol free gasoline. Sure it costs a few cents more but it is a whole lot less expensive than engine repairs or new equipment. I have a 19 year old Craftsman snow thrower that has only seen Ethanol free gas and it runs like a champ! Start on one or two pulls. Lawn tractor is a baby at only 9 years old but it also has had zero problems. Whomever decided to cut gasoline with Ethanol should be jailed.
Once again Dony you are the best, I came on youtube, asking how to store a snowblower for the summer, and BANG there you again at my rescue. I am such a fan of yours - saving me time and money - I now own three snowblowers as I have a snow removal company, Thanks for giving me the brains to fix my machines on the fly.
Folks... I feel DONYBOY should have his own TV SHOW... I'll see if I can come up and make a website to have you folks vote on getting Dony on TV. This man is so helpful to us.
Dony Thank you ever so much for taking the time and show us dummies how to fix the simple things and making the harder things so easy to fix.
-Cheers Dony-
anthony guada how can you run a business like that if you don’t know simple maintenance?
Always the best advice on this channel!
Just want to thanks for the videos you do. My Snowblower auger broke at the weld over the winter and it was you who taught me how to remove the front of my snow-blower from the engine so I could fit it in my jeep and get it welded. And now - how to store it properly. Thanks so much.
I was told many years ago by the local shop I purchased my blower from was to run the unit throughout the off season. So ever three or so weeks I start the unit and let it run, all year long. My unit is 18 years old and this approach has worked. I do grease, change the oil and use the gas stabilizer year round. I have tried storing my unit and it has caused me carb. issues in the past.
I always change the oil too. Do any maintenance that may be needed. Easier to to it when it's warm than when you have a foot of snow on the driveway.
Dan R yes definitely, because you don't want that old yucky oil to sit in your engine all summer long.
Agreed. Check belts too!
Excellent presentation. i rewatch this every year and it helps.
Great video. I store all my small gas engines dry of fuel, including my generators, and I never have any trouble starting them up even after months of storage. I also spray down all the sheet metal and auger/impeller on my snowblower with Rustcheck before putting it away for the summer.
Thanks for the info.. just bought new snowblower and was looking for that type of info.. Cost me a small fortune and want to protect it.. Thanks again, your the best :-)
I run the machines dry. Nice tip on angling the spray into cylinder head. You reminded me to finish installing fuel shut offs on the rest of my stuff. Thank you, Steve, Plymouth, MA
@4u250ut may have different properties but it should work
Thanks for all the tips you provide, I really enjoy them and learn alot as well..
Brilliantly made videos...can't thank you enough!!!
@jarrod4020 i use high test or the highest octane gas, there is lees ethanol or none at all in it and has a longer shelf life
@karnsaini just got into rc Planes, still learning,
I have a plane that flies with two radios and a bunch of plane parts and motors, goggles ect. I just don't have the time to play anymore. I am going to list the whole lot soon.
BTW, great videos, you sure know your stuff.
I have a Honda Commercial Lawnmower& a Honda 1132 Snowblower... Thanks for the storage tips Dony. :)
great tips, another reason for storing your small 4 stroke engine in compression is so all the valves are closed and no moisture or critters can get in.
Aldo Clausi critters have to live too!
Closing the choke helps with critters.
Great stuff donyboy yet again, I usually use fogging oil in the cylinder the same way you do and replace the spark plug with a new at this time, and I also drain the gas rather then burning it all up, and save a tiny bit to run with fuel stabilizer and seafoam in the fuel, just cleans up some gunk in the cylinders and what not
Excellent video; clear and concise. Thank you!
@xxtruckin93xx that should be ok for that engine, some have an automatic decompressor so the reading won't be much higher
Your videos are very helpful, thank you
Great video! I get anxiety over my generator not being run enough even with the fuel stabilizer. I will follow all these tips for long term storage.
AND USE k100 stabilizer, it's much better
Do you suggesting any lube treatment to the auger shaft, cogs, chains or axels? What about oil change?
We think alike Dony!,........ Great Video& have a great summer.
Excellent instructions
@bg147 i would recommend removing the drain plug
I have to store my Blower tomorrow. Thanks for the tip of the TDC i never thought of that one before.
You the best , you help me so much When I forgot something I watch your old videos. thanks 😊
Happy to hear that!
@@donyboy73 question have you ever had a neighbor complain when you are running your machines trying to adjust rpm? I don't have a shop I work out of my garage and had a neighbor say something to me today. Said he will call the town bc he is tired of hearing my machines. I don't turn them on before 11am and never after 5pm. When I do turn them on it is only for short periods of time. I know you are super busy I just want to know if it's illegal to do small engine repair out of my garage?
@@jeuf5646 you need to check local by-laws
you're welcome, thanks for watching
Jon , I change mine at the end of the winter and put new oil in , this way if there moisture from snow that may have got in the old oil goes out with oil . But be sure to run the motor so the old oil will drain . turn it over a few times with new oil and fog it .
Another handy thing on older tecumseh engines is there is a spring loaded drain on the bowl of the carb. The hondas and chinese engines have a drain bolt as well.
I have a Husqvarna 125 dirt bike. Considering it is a 2 stroke motor, is it ok for me to run the carb dry prior to storage or should I remove the plug under the carb and manually drain it? She runs a little lean before running dry and I don't want to damage the motor due to insufficient oil. Also, do you recommend fogging it? I have never fogged it and it has been stored for several years at a time. Thanks a lot for the great videos. Cheers from Illinois.
Donyboy73 I have been used 89 octane and on every gas fillup for for 2 1/2 gallon container I put some star tron inside with fresh gas. For both my Honda and my ariens I always put the gas inside the fuel tank, let it run for few minutes, turn off fuel shutoff and let it die on its own, with a full tank of gas with star tron. Think this method will be okay?
Thanks for your great videos!
Is it possible to install from the new Ariens 28 about caterpillars to the old caterpillar model 824 years old in 2008, and if possible, what is needed for this.?
With a metal gas tank, would it be better to leave the fuel tank completely full of gas to prevent rust? Just wondering.
This sounds like similar advice for winter storage of a motorcycle. I've heard both schools of thought regarding the question about leaving the gas tank full, with Stabil, vs empty and run dry. My bike has a steel gas tank and I worry about rust inside, so I've usually stored it full. Strangely, both methods seem to work.
After draining the fuel and fogging the cyclinder, would it be ok to store the snowblower in the service position (standing on the front end)? It seems like it would take up less space in my garage that way.
Hey man nice tip.No snow blowers here though.Having a big problem with gasoline.The alcohol content in the gasoline much more than the 10% that they say.I know u probably use fuel line TYGON that has served me just fine in the past.I replaced the fuel lines on a Bolens BL100 trimmer and in 24hrs. the line that goes up through the tank had hardened,and begun to leak.Have u heard anything about the alcohol in gasoline and is there a more better fuel line than Tygon now a days.Thanks man
The mixing ratio for stabilizer is normally about 300 to 1 so it looks like you put enough stabil in the gas tank to treat about 9 litres of fuel.
The only blower I've seen with a proper carburetor drain is the Honda. Some carburetors have a plug at the bottom of the bowl that you can loosen but it also contains the needle for the main jet so draining the fuel could cause a problem with the jet adjustment. The Honda even has a separate sediment trap that you are supposed to clean out. None seem to have an easy to use fuel tank drain system.
Other things to do before putting it to bed.
1. Check all fasteners and tighten as necessary;
2. Change the engine oil, that way its sitting in fresh oil not old used oil;
3. Touch up any paint chips;
4. Clean and wax all metal except the engine;
5. Grease gun to all zerks, especially the auger rakes which shold also be rotated after greasing;
6. Oil all bushings and anywhere else the manual states.
7. Store with the weight off of the tires.
You can normally get a manual from the manufacturer's web site.
Franken Berry while it won’t hurt to do everything you said a lot if it is overkill.
hey don i have a tecumseh motor that had 80 psi compression and has no spark is it bad
Due to the changes in fuel formulation and the affects it has on small engines, once the fuel is drained from the tank and carburetor, is there a solution (perhaps alcohol) you'd recommend to run through the tank and carburetor?
Great video. My craftsman snowblower 4 years old nothing has been fixed on it as of yet.Started surging this year with small backfires once and a while. The surge and backfire happens when coming out of being under load. (running with no snow to move)(turning around) (surges not as noticeable under heavy load,no backfire) can you help. Thanks.
Small Engines PET PEEVES #3 - Most Annoying Engine Sound!
should you also clean and grease the gears underneath?
Hi Dony, thanks for the video. Consider showing people where to grease prior to storage in the same video. I also spray my Honda 928 with Rust Check twice a year too. Take care...
+Jeffrey Hearn ok thanks
Donyboy One question . Do change the oil at this time or wait and do it just before you are going to use it . Personaly I change mine when I put it away for the summer , then before I use it I check it as well as change the spark plug .WHAT DO YOU DO ??
Wow, did a google search to determine how to store my snowblower over the summer and I got this. Lucky me. Now if only I had you when I stored my lawnmower over the winter with fuel in it. After 3 years I am afraid it can't be resuscitated.
Great vid. Thanks for sharing and was easy to do.
thanks fred
Good video. I run my machines dry and put it away. All my gas machines. And if you use stabilizer too you shouldn't have startup problems when it's time to use it next season.
So you just leave the used, old oil in the motor? Then change it next season? That's what I've always done anyways. But now that I think of it, is that a good idea? Would it be a good idea to drain the oil at the end of the season as well as the gas? Probably not? Because then you risk the chance of parts not being covered in oil and rusting or getting moisture on them.
Or maybe it would be a better idea to just change the oil at the end of the season. If i did that, would that be smart? or no
FWIW, the recommendation to store the engine while on the compression stroke is to ensure the valves are closed; the position of the piston isn't as much of a concern. After all, while you can feel you are on the compression stroke, you really don't have an easy way to tell if you are actually at TDC or not. Anyway, keep up the good work!
great advice.
Do you have a vidio on how to adjust the dual handle interlock on the ariens snowblower? Mine won't stay lock.
thanks, Tim
Great vid, I pretty well followed your instructions to a tee, as most of this is already outlined in my Craftsmans manual. One thing was different, Instead of what you did with the engine storage spray for the cylinder, it said put an ounce of clean engine oil inside prior to replacing the spark plug. I did that, and got a bit of smoke. I'm a bit of a novice, but is that common practice with some manufacturers? Thanks.
An Ounce is too much to put in the cylinder. Spray it with any Lube lightly inside.
The best , right to the point. Thanks Bro.
Awesome video. Can you do one on a Husqvarna? I am a woman, and don’t have a lot of experience with this, but I want to eep it in tip top shape after this coming winter.
I poured motor oil in my spark plug hole instead of buying fogging oil. I used too much. About an ounce. It squirted out of the hole when the starter rope was pulled and the rope wouldn't pull if the plug was installed. I put some gas in the hole and pulled the cord to get as much to squirt out as possible. It worked after that, but smoked. I looked at the plug again and it was dirty (wet with oil) Will running it more help dry out the cylinder? Should I replace the plug? Seems like a new one will just get covered in oil too. Any other way to clean it out? Thanks
Run it for awhile and then remove and clean or replace the plug.
Thanks man great video 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Hi Dony. What I do is put enough fresh gas in to let the machine run for about 3 to 5 minutes and start it every two to three weeks in the summer. Is that a good idea?
+Jim Morrison that's good too because you actually start it during the summer
Yeah, I also close the fuel shutoff valve and run the motor dry (mowers and blowers.) my grandpa's riding mower was stored all winter and I'm gonna post a video soon of the cold start. It was the first pull of the year and it starts right up!!
Dony , are not wered there may be moiture from snow in the oil. As I have done with my boat motor i fall .I do all I can to keep moisture out of the motor .
I'm not very handy and would prefer to save a few bucks and do this myself. Do I need to wear any special gloves when dealing with the spark plug?
Not unless it is Hot!
I personally store my equipment with a mix of both Marine (blue) and Standard (red) Sta-Bil. The blue helps ethanol. For what it is worth, I confirmed this method as preferable with Gold Eagle, who makes it. I also drain the carbs as noted below.
To those who merely drain the fuel without stabilizer, be aware that such does NOT get the fuel out of the carb bowl, which can and will still turn to mush or worse, especially with ethanol. To prevent this one must drain the carb bowl, which on many models has a drain button or screw. My Honda generators, for example, have dedicated carb drain plugs.
This said, I store my equipment with stabilized fuel as I intend to use it within a several month period. If, however, one needs to store equipment for over a year I suggest , and as Honda recommends, that stabilized fuel be run through the system and then drained. Be aware that storing metal gas tanks empty can eventually cause rust.
What grade gasoline...93-89-87?
I wouldn't bother with the engine storage spray unless you think it might be more than a year before its next use. If your fuel tank is metal, then store it with a full tank of stabilized gas. If it's plastic then you can do the same OR can just drain it. Reason is that the metal tank will rust inside if left empty. Apologies if he mentions this in the video, I don't have any audio so I don't know what he's saying in the vid.
One thing that I always don is to cover a cement block with newspaper and then rest the snow blower on it so the wheels are not touching the floor. A snow blower tends to stay in one place for long periods this way there will be no flat spots on the tyres
Hi Dony. Do I have to use ethanol free fuel? or Is it OK if I use regular gas and empty it and the end of the season as per your instructions?
you can if you want to but you may run into problems
Great video.
Dony, I also spray some fogger down the intake also! Just what I do.
+d blixt that's good too
hi .. excuse me for my ignorant questions.. if we just had the snowblower oil changed in January.. and we are storing it for the summer.. our fuel tank is empty.. do we have to do that spark plug spray thing part?
not necessarily but doing it won't hurt
I never do it but it does not hurt. Pull Wheels and grease axle shafts.
DOny. Im a new subscriber. excellent vids. thanks so much brother.
Great video, i also prefer running the engine dry then theres not really much to buy and theres nothing that can go wrong
in some cases yes it is a good idea
Really good video. Thanks for the advice.
This video is perfect
suppoose you only use ethanol free gas? Ive never put regular gas in my machine. Only trueFuel 4 cycle.
that's even better!
Good advice. Thx
Very helpful! Thanks!
I use STABIL most of the time.
But I've heard many experienced auto repairmen claim that they prefer SEA FOAM. Take your pick.
Great video as always
Hey donyboy do u have a nitro car or somthing just wondering because I saw nitro fuel
I have a few rc planes
I have this very same engine but I can't figure out the size of the spark plug bolt. It's bigger than a 3/4 but not sure ho to measure it.
it was 13/16ths
if it's metal tank yes but most snowblowers are plastic
i usually replace it at the beginnnig of the season
Thank you very much
Great video, Thanks!
@soverato3 yes nitro fuel, just got into rc airplanes, got a couple old planes, i'll make a video to show them one day
thankyou great advice
No mention of changing the oil??
all good advice thanks..
Usually after every use i shut off the fuel valve, and let the engines run dry until dead. Even after doing this i still end up cleaning the fuel bowls out every year which is not a big deal because it usually takes a few minutes anyways.
Running the machine "DRY" is the best method by far.. I also run all of my machines at least once every 2 months for about 15 min. To check on proper operations. Generators, Mowers, Snowblowers, ect. Nothing worse than needing a machine; only to find it will not start or run property. Expecting "Big Snowstorm" here on Monday, I'm off to the garage to make sure the Snowblower runs property. An ounce of prevention you know!
Running your machine "dry" is the prefer method. but it is far more beneficial if you just remove the gas tank and drain it off instead of running the engine until you run out of gas. It save you money and makes you a green thumb.
I don't run the tank dry, I run the carburetor dry by shutting off the fuel to it.
+Robert Mitchum The pin in the carborator can get damaged because old fuel still sits around the bowl even after draining the carborator. It will slowly suck gas from the tank. It ends up being varnish from old fuel and leads to problems. No old fuel should be in tank.
If you're going to go the "DRY" method, you might as well empty/drain the tank as well. Running that old ethanol riddled gas next season isn't doing you any good. Better to run fresh gas if you're going the extra mile to keep things in good shape i.e. putting in more storage effort than dumping in some fuel stabilizer.
You should also drain or remove the float bowl, clean and spray with penetrating oil to keep it from rusting inside. Running the engine until it quits does not totally drain the float bowl. Shell Premium in Ontario is Ethanol free.
@donyboy73 do you run rc cars? I saw some nitro
I always have gas with stabilizer in it already, plus I leave my tank full of stabilized gas that is the best way to store it. Plus checking the air jet in the carburetor is a good idea to make sure it isn’t clogged. I would fog the engine as well as put fog in the spark plug hole. Last but not least of course you want to change your oil.
what about snow blowers with separate oil tank this is the first one I had at my job usually a mixture doe I drain for summer stil
Dony what about this routine?: Warm up the engine and run it at stationary, fog the engine with fogging oil through the carburator until the engine dies, then you may assume there is enough protection inside the system to last the whole winter. That is how I treat my boat motor as well.
also is the fuel tank and engine tank different? i am definitely confused on which people are referring to in regards to the fuel oil check or engine dip stick check. please let me know
fuel tank is only for gas, no engine tank. where the dip stick is that is the engine oil level. if you changed the oil in January then you probably don't need to change it again.
you can also follow me on facebook facebook.com/pages/Donyboy73-The-Small-Engine-Doctor-on-UA-cam/234040803408166
I must say... there are some individuals, that should always take their equipment needing repairs to the professionals. they should never attempt DIY projects for the safety of the rest of us.
James amador I would love to do that every year but at $100+ for simple maintenance it doesn't seem to be quite worth it if we simpletons could find a way to do it ourselves.
Nicely said
would half once oil instead of engine storage spray work
yes, even a bit less
thank you
Only needs a couple of cc/mls of engine oil in the cylinder to coat it....put the spark plug back in ...then DISCONNECT the spark plug lead so it will NOT spark and pull the manual starter cord s couple of times...this will disperse the oil across the surface of the cylinder.
When you fire it up again it will most likely smoke for a few seconds as it burns off the oil...no problem.
If you put too much oil in the cylinderr...remove the spark plug ....disconnect it from the lead...loosely cover spark plug opening with an old rag then depress the electric start for a couple of seconds ....excess oil will be forced out of spark plug opening...DO NOT LOOK DOWN THE HOLE WHEN DEPRESSING THE STARTER BUTTON.
I've never heard of "MOTOMASTER" brand. Is that strictly a "Canadian flavor"?🇨🇦
can u do a review of your air ratchet pls
I have a 2.5 gallon fuel container to store my ETHANOL FREE gasoline for use on all my power equipment. I add the Standard-Bil to it when I fill it up at the pump. I have never had any engine problems running Ethanol free gasoline. Sure it costs a few cents more but it is a whole lot less expensive than engine repairs or new equipment. I have a 19 year old Craftsman snow thrower that has only seen Ethanol free gas and it runs like a champ! Start on one or two pulls. Lawn tractor is a baby at only 9 years old but it also has had zero problems.
Whomever decided to cut gasoline with Ethanol should be jailed.