I'm *pretty* sure the Dark Tone wash that's being sold today - with the Warpaints Fanatic labeling - is actually the same as the old Dark Tone. I've heard repeatedly that the washes were the only thing they DIDN'T reformulate with the new Fanatic line. However, they did add some new wash colors, like Magenta wash for example. You're doing great work!
I'd seen it said that the washes hadn't changed, and Dark Tone definitely doesn't seem to have... but *Strong* Tone is more straight brown and lacks a little of the warmth that the old bottles have, I'm sure of it. Then again, it might be me going mad in my dotage, but I like to think I've got a decent eye for colour! 😂
You just demonstrated to me how I can actually paint my inconceivable pile of grey shame Genestealer Cults. Holy moly. My world just cracked open, I'm no longer afraid of the pile. Looks incredible, thanks for sharing!
Sonic’s “Nothing spectacular” paint job is my, holy mother of God that’s brilliant, paint job. Will be Sonic Tonic-ing several examples in pre-shade and post wash to see what works best for me, but I am a devotee of the universal wash. Thanks.
Really excellent video! For years I've been painting my Austrian Napoleonic or other white uniforms with a sepia wash over a white base coat. But the clear advantage in flow of adding medium is amazing! Super thankful for this idea!
Oh my god. This will be huge. I can feel it. It will make us all look like pro painters. The finish on your three figures looks incredible dude. Love it.
I get the same effect when mixing 1 to 1 any of the army painter washes with speed paint medium. For reasons sonic shows, less likely to screw up large, flat surfaces. It's pretty rare that I use wash straight from the bottle any more. Good vid.
Today I mixed up a batch exactly as described in this video, and it's amazing - exactly as described. I'll be doing a World Eaters army with this wash now! Thanks for all the effort that's gone into researching this - I'm sure it wasn't straightforward!
I mixed up a batch earlier today and gave it a test on a monster mini I was painting up. Worked like a charm. The overall shading was the chef's kiss 👌
It's kind of funny, I've just realised this Marine Juice is exactly what Phil Stucinskas and Mark Bedford showed us during the Tank Masterclasses at Warhammer World many MANY moons ago. Back then it was Badab Black/Devlan Mud/Gloss Varnish though, and we were using it for the panels on Hellhounds!
Great have been using the old marine juice now have a replacement , your still the man to go to for new painters and commission painters who need to paint fast thanks
Excellent video! I really appreciate the step by step breakdown with your words and your pictures - very easy to follow and understand what's happening and why.
I just use enamel "track wash", its a thin wash which has a slightly reddish brown colour, it works for most colour schemes, but I'd avoid using it on blues (unless you want a really dirty look). Just add the track wash, then once dry use a enamel/oil thinner to remove any excess.
Absolutely brilliant. I've used the marine juice on tons of things ever since i discovered it on your channel. I will now continue to use it. It really is a great universal wash. Sonic Tonic for the win!
Came here after ordering two (more) boxes of Wargames Atlantic Deathfields stuff and I've just spotted that you did the studio paint job for the new Sneakfeet! I ordered those after seeing the great work on their store photos... Very nice work and hoping for a 'box art' tutorial!!
been using the juice for a year now since i first watched your videos. works like a charm, and is a great final step for imperial fists, if you're using the IF contrast paint. gives it that averland sunset golden tinge to it
I made your original formula and it works great! I especially like to use it on 6 and 10mm armor as I have practically no tide marks. I will try this new version soon. Thanks for sharing this.
What a cracking result. Another great wash video - the previous 2(?) Marine Juice vids have been little revelations. For the darker models wanting a blue-er tinge, maybe a variation using Vallejo Black Lotus and a Citadel Drakenhof Nightshade might be worth a try. I might try and keep this in mind for a future Raven Guard project.
With Night Lords I would probably still suggest something like Nuln Oil or Drakenhof Nightshade for a deeper shade in the recess, but I've honestly not tried it over that dark a blue. I know it works for Ultramarines surprisingly well, so it can't hurt to give it a shot on a test piece.
That's what I've been thinking about, though I'll admit the purple interaction has me wondering what that would look like as is, I'll probably splash some about and try a few different mixes see works, drakenhof or something similar sounds right what I need!
The Marine Juice is key for my Votann army, and I use a slightly darker version of it (an extra part Dark Tone). If I hadn't come across your earlier video, the army would've been much harder to get quickly done. Wonderful work as always.
Nice one. I bought up a bunch of the old Army Painter Dark Tone, Flesh Wash and Mixing Medium when I realised that they were getting replaced for my take on the old juice. Don't want to fail to match the previous results when it counts!
Hopefully this new formula works for me! Have been partially successful with using old Dark Tone, Mid Brown and Speedpaint medium but have had trouble with the end result not being particularly smooth. More testing is required!
I took your original recipe, and made my own using a bottle each of Dark Tone, Light Tone and Speedpaint medium and it works great. It's in my Hobby Update videofor German Infantry for Bolt Action. Cheers!
Those look great, I am a great believer in the 3ft rule, that is to say, get models to look good on the table where they'll be viewed from roughly 3ft away. I was unaware of the changes to Army Painter Washes. I rely heavily on Stoft Tone, really hope that has not been changed.
I've got a whole load of board game figures this will be handy for and just so happened to have some empty 60ml bottles that were perfect for a batch. I've labelled mine "Sonic Sledgehammer's Sump-Water" 😂 Cheers for the recipe. Carry on being awesome and take care.
Marine juice is the eternal proof that you don’t need to get fancy. Of course these are single minis and they look fine with this stuff slapped on. However, do 10 or 20, arrange them neatly into ranks and you got an army that looks awesome and you can bang em out quick.
I use a similar wash on my mini's but instead of the Lamia medium I use the Army painters speedpaint one .its a little more clunky I think but it still gives a nice result.
No idea, really. I've done oil washes on larger pieces like tanks and such, but for miniatures of this size I've always favoured the speed and ease of acrylic washes.
I've been using one of your mix variants ( Dark Tone + Mid Brown + Speed Paint Medium) and so far is great to use. But I'm thinking on the future when those bottles'll be empty. I'm from Argentina and there's no Fanatic range here, mostly Vallejo, Citadel, And A. P. old range. Could I use the Flesh and Black wash from Vallejo + Lahmian as an alternative?
The Dark Tone you could use the old version and theoretically it shouldn't make any difference. Army Painter have said they didn't change the wash formulation with the Fanatic range, so *hopefully* I'm just future-proofing by recommending the new bottle. But if it's the same stuff inside, the old Dark Tone will do just fine.
The pre-shade method is my go-to solution for anything Contrast/Speedpaint/XPress, although I use the old Gloss Wash by Citadel (Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade and Reikland Fleshshade), which is a bit more staining than the Marine Juice recipe - but I got a stock of the stuff, so... 😂 Oh, it's not good for ethereal/ghostly beings either (as in Nighthaunts), not just really dark schemes.
Sometimes the simplest answer is best. Nuln Oil or Dark Tone over black or near-black are your best bets, there's no need to go mixing anything for that.
'Widely available' can vary... well, widely, from place to place. There's stuff I'd take for granted other places I've lived that I can't source in Germany, and I'm sure vice versa. The idea here is that the mix is incredibly simple, and from brands that're almost certainly accessible anywhere you happen to live.
Hello! I've loved using Marine Juice on all my painting. I do find that if I want to do a silver/steel plate armor, it comes out with a yellow-ish/brown-ish shade. Do you have any advise on what to use if I want to use it for a plate/steel armor? I'm thinking I should replace reikland fleshshade but I'm not sure with what
If you're finding the colour doesn't quite work over larger areas of silver or steel, you can wait until it's dry and hit those areas again with something like Nuln Oil, or just use Nuln Oil over them in the first place - you don't necessarily need to juice the entire miniature, it can be used a bit more controlled if needs be.
This looks fantastic, might have to finally give it a go, unfortunately most western brands aren’t available where I live (Japan) so I guess I can use nuln oil in place of the dark tone, even though it’s not as good anymore?
That one's not painted at all, it's just War World Scenics 'Army Coarse' sand over some PVA, then given a very watered down layer of PVA again to seal it.
Hey Sonic, if I may make a name suggestion, how does "Sonic's Wonder Wash" sound? You could patten the label with a lightning bolt logo like the one on Roy Hobbs baseball bat Lol. Quick question. Have you ever varnished your primed minis with gloss varnish before applying your shade then drybrushing over it all when it's dry? 👍
I'm not sure it'd have the same effect through an airbrush, though I know people spray on their washes for all sorts of different effects. I'd just stick to a brush, personally.
Honestly, it depends on the green or blue you're using. The short answer is *probably*, but it's up to you. I wouldn't strictly recommend it for anything, since in a lot of cases there's going to be shades or washes that'll give you a better result, but this will *quickly* shade pretty much anything so... it's worth a shot!
So can you just swap out the Reikland for other shades and it’ll work the same OR do the other shades have too much of a different transparency/consistency/tone that messes the formula?
Stumbled on this video from Reddit and while it is called "Marine Juice" I'm going to mix up a batch and call it "Deathwing Juice" because this looks like it would be fantastic as a wash for all my Deathwing models I'm about to paint up. Thanks for this!
Without seeing what you're doing it's a little hard to give an answer to that. The simplest is often to use a bigger brush, though. I see a lot of people trying to apply shades over large areas with a layer brush or similar, and you're always going to get weird tide marks and stains like that.
Here to report that I'm an idiot and for some reason thought of guilliman flesh instead of reikland flesh. Not sure how it holds.up to your mix but it still work really nice as a nice preshade
![Wargames Atlantic Foot Knights - Baron's War Miniatures [How I Paint Things]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xxivNh1983I/mqdefault.jpg)
![Wargames Atlantic Foot Knights - Baron's War Miniatures [How I Paint Things]](/img/tr.png)
![Painting Veteran Afrika Korps for Bolt Action [How I Paint Things]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OY4zCBF56Vw/mqdefault.jpg)
This is magic. Going to try it on some Stormcast. “Sledge Sauce” is good but I think I like “Sonic Tonic” better. 😂
Sonic Tonic is a great name!
Oh, I'm definitely stealing Sonic Tonic. That's too damn good!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I was thinking Sledge Sludge myself.
Three cheers for Sonic Tonic!
Hahaha sonic tonic is the best!!!!
I'm *pretty* sure the Dark Tone wash that's being sold today - with the Warpaints Fanatic labeling - is actually the same as the old Dark Tone. I've heard repeatedly that the washes were the only thing they DIDN'T reformulate with the new Fanatic line. However, they did add some new wash colors, like Magenta wash for example. You're doing great work!
I'd seen it said that the washes hadn't changed, and Dark Tone definitely doesn't seem to have... but *Strong* Tone is more straight brown and lacks a little of the warmth that the old bottles have, I'm sure of it. Then again, it might be me going mad in my dotage, but I like to think I've got a decent eye for colour! 😂
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I thought the old formula was Dark Tone, Mid Brown and Speedpaint Medium? That's what I'd been using anyway. 🙂
It's a funny one. The Wash medium AP sell under the Fanatic seems to look different to me sat next to the older one.
This idea is great 😊
You just demonstrated to me how I can actually paint my inconceivable pile of grey shame Genestealer Cults. Holy moly. My world just cracked open, I'm no longer afraid of the pile. Looks incredible, thanks for sharing!
Sonic’s “Nothing spectacular” paint job is my, holy mother of God that’s brilliant, paint job.
Will be Sonic Tonic-ing several examples in pre-shade and post wash to see what works best for me, but I am a devotee of the universal wash.
Thanks.
Thank you , Troy .
🐺Loupis Canis .
Great new formulation - and Sonic Tonic is genius 😂
This stuff is just beautiful, having to whizz through a guard army with this juice is magic, save a lot of fuss.
Am I now going through your back catalog? Yes. Yes I am. I would love to see your take on a Carcharodon! 🎉
Spoiler warning, but if you pop 'Carcharadon' into the search bar, you might be in for a treat. ;D
Really excellent video! For years I've been painting my Austrian Napoleonic or other white uniforms with a sepia wash over a white base coat. But the clear advantage in flow of adding medium is amazing! Super thankful for this idea!
Evil Sonic Sledgehammer be like: Hello and welcome to a very normal episode of how I paint things
Oh my god. This will be huge. I can feel it. It will make us all look like pro painters. The finish on your three figures looks incredible dude. Love it.
I get the same effect when mixing 1 to 1 any of the army painter washes with speed paint medium. For reasons sonic shows, less likely to screw up large, flat surfaces. It's pretty rare that I use wash straight from the bottle any more. Good vid.
Today I mixed up a batch exactly as described in this video, and it's amazing - exactly as described. I'll be doing a World Eaters army with this wash now! Thanks for all the effort that's gone into researching this - I'm sure it wasn't straightforward!
I love to hear it's out in the wild and working for folks. :D
I mixed up a batch earlier today and gave it a test on a monster mini I was painting up. Worked like a charm. The overall shading was the chef's kiss 👌
It's kind of funny, I've just realised this Marine Juice is exactly what Phil Stucinskas and Mark Bedford showed us during the Tank Masterclasses at Warhammer World many MANY moons ago. Back then it was Badab Black/Devlan Mud/Gloss Varnish though, and we were using it for the panels on Hellhounds!
Great have been using the old marine juice now have a replacement , your still the man to go to for new painters and commission painters who need to paint fast thanks
Excellent video! I really appreciate the step by step breakdown with your words and your pictures - very easy to follow and understand what's happening and why.
I'm surprised one of the hobby paint brands hasn't mixed up a version themselves and sold it as one of their standard washes by now.
It's pretty much locked into my head as Marine Juice by this point. Thanks for the update!
Just tried it on a Krieg killteam I'm painting up, and holy moly am I in love!
I just use enamel "track wash", its a thin wash which has a slightly reddish brown colour, it works for most colour schemes, but I'd avoid using it on blues (unless you want a really dirty look).
Just add the track wash, then once dry use a enamel/oil thinner to remove any excess.
Absolutely brilliant. I've used the marine juice on tons of things ever since i discovered it on your channel. I will now continue to use it. It really is a great universal wash. Sonic Tonic for the win!
Came here after ordering two (more) boxes of Wargames Atlantic Deathfields stuff and I've just spotted that you did the studio paint job for the new Sneakfeet! I ordered those after seeing the great work on their store photos... Very nice work and hoping for a 'box art' tutorial!!
been using the juice for a year now since i first watched your videos. works like a charm, and is a great final step for imperial fists, if you're using the IF contrast paint. gives it that averland sunset golden tinge to it
I made your original formula and it works great! I especially like to use it on 6 and 10mm armor as I have practically no tide marks. I will try this new version soon. Thanks for sharing this.
Great stuff, man. I'll def try the new recipe. Glad to see you back in painting shape, mate.
I just mixed up a batch of Marine Juice today. Thank you!
Excellent. That gives a very subtle yet noticeable effect.
The timing for this is perfect, my OG Marine Juice bottle has about 3 marines worth left!
sweet glad you did this tutorial my friend. will keep this in favorites for later usage
What a cracking result. Another great wash video - the previous 2(?) Marine Juice vids have been little revelations. For the darker models wanting a blue-er tinge, maybe a variation using Vallejo Black Lotus and a Citadel Drakenhof Nightshade might be worth a try. I might try and keep this in mind for a future Raven Guard project.
I do love me some Marine Juice. "Sonic Tonic" has a nice ring to it though.
In this world of negativity, it is always lovely to get another positive, upbeat video from the effervescent Sonic Sledgehammer.
You're gonna love my Juice....
I need to make some of this juice, it looks so good
Yes! Sonic Tonic! dude you are my favourite painting channel on the whole of youtube :)
Will test this for sure. I do mostly slap chop now. Will see how it works on top :)
This is brilliant, i may have to mix some up and go back over some Night Lords as a touch up and see where it takes me
With Night Lords I would probably still suggest something like Nuln Oil or Drakenhof Nightshade for a deeper shade in the recess, but I've honestly not tried it over that dark a blue. I know it works for Ultramarines surprisingly well, so it can't hurt to give it a shot on a test piece.
That's what I've been thinking about, though I'll admit the purple interaction has me wondering what that would look like as is, I'll probably splash some about and try a few different mixes see works, drakenhof or something similar sounds right what I need!
This could not have come at a better time; I've just run out of marine juice and old formula nuln oil. Much appreciated.
Lovely stuff Sonic
Looks best on power armor (as the name implies, haha). Fool proof way to get your mini 80-85% of the way there.
The Marine Juice is key for my Votann army, and I use a slightly darker version of it (an extra part Dark Tone). If I hadn't come across your earlier video, the army would've been much harder to get quickly done. Wonderful work as always.
I do that preshading too, with allys brown liquid. Looks damn fine :)
Nice one. I bought up a bunch of the old Army Painter Dark Tone, Flesh Wash and Mixing Medium when I realised that they were getting replaced for my take on the old juice. Don't want to fail to match the previous results when it counts!
Having resisted the lure of Marine Juice for years now, it looks like I'm going to try Sledge Sauce - great results there.
I've been waiting for this update!
Hopefully this new formula works for me! Have been partially successful with using old Dark Tone, Mid Brown and Speedpaint medium but have had trouble with the end result not being particularly smooth. More testing is required!
I took your original recipe, and made my own using a bottle each of Dark Tone, Light Tone and Speedpaint medium and it works great. It's in my Hobby Update videofor German Infantry for Bolt Action. Cheers!
Those look great, I am a great believer in the 3ft rule, that is to say, get models to look good on the table where they'll be viewed from roughly 3ft away.
I was unaware of the changes to Army Painter Washes. I rely heavily on Stoft Tone, really hope that has not been changed.
I've got a whole load of board game figures this will be handy for and just so happened to have some empty 60ml bottles that were perfect for a batch.
I've labelled mine "Sonic Sledgehammer's Sump-Water" 😂
Cheers for the recipe.
Carry on being awesome and take care.
Marine juice is the eternal proof that you don’t need to get fancy. Of course these are single minis and they look fine with this stuff slapped on. However, do 10 or 20, arrange them neatly into ranks and you got an army that looks awesome and you can bang em out quick.
We all need some shade in this heat :p I might just have to pick this up once I get started on a new army...
Sledge sauce gets my vote
Dark tone is out of stock pretty much everywhere right now, I don't think that's a coincidence
I use a similar wash on my mini's but instead of the Lamia medium I use the Army painters speedpaint one .its a little more clunky I think but it still gives a nice result.
Ooh, I like the look of this. How would it compare to a traditional oil wash? Easier to work with obviously but do the results compare?
No idea, really. I've done oil washes on larger pieces like tanks and such, but for miniatures of this size I've always favoured the speed and ease of acrylic washes.
I've been using one of your mix variants ( Dark Tone + Mid Brown + Speed Paint Medium) and so far is great to use. But I'm thinking on the future when those bottles'll be empty. I'm from Argentina and there's no Fanatic range here, mostly Vallejo, Citadel, And A. P. old range. Could I use the Flesh and Black wash from Vallejo + Lahmian as an alternative?
The Dark Tone you could use the old version and theoretically it shouldn't make any difference. Army Painter have said they didn't change the wash formulation with the Fanatic range, so *hopefully* I'm just future-proofing by recommending the new bottle. But if it's the same stuff inside, the old Dark Tone will do just fine.
Fantastic tip!
Really helpful vid thank you. I love the name Sonic Tonic.
The pre-shade method is my go-to solution for anything Contrast/Speedpaint/XPress, although I use the old Gloss Wash by Citadel (Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade and Reikland Fleshshade), which is a bit more staining than the Marine Juice recipe - but I got a stock of the stuff, so... 😂
Oh, it's not good for ethereal/ghostly beings either (as in Nighthaunts), not just really dark schemes.
Tending to do pin washes with oils but definitely interested in a quicker easier method lol.
Love it - I wish I'd done my DG more grey than the cream I went for
Just picked up Dark Tone and Reikland over the weekend to go with my Lahmian from 2020. We'll see if I like what this formulation will do..
As someone who is keen on collecting Raven Guard for Horus Heresy I am interested in your thoughts on how to make a suitable wash for armor that dark.
Sometimes the simplest answer is best. Nuln Oil or Dark Tone over black or near-black are your best bets, there's no need to go mixing anything for that.
If you were doing decals on a marine, what order would you apply varnish and washes?
Thanks
Apply them after the wash, but before any weathering and varnish. You want them under the varnish layer so they're protected.
Have you ever considered formulating something from long-standing, widely available, artist paints, mediums, etc. ?
'Widely available' can vary... well, widely, from place to place. There's stuff I'd take for granted other places I've lived that I can't source in Germany, and I'm sure vice versa. The idea here is that the mix is incredibly simple, and from brands that're almost certainly accessible anywhere you happen to live.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Fair. I was just considering ways to avoid the hobby brands who seem to love to constantly muck up the works.
noice. im still learning and i make a lot of mistakes but i loooove doing it
Hello! I've loved using Marine Juice on all my painting. I do find that if I want to do a silver/steel plate armor, it comes out with a yellow-ish/brown-ish shade. Do you have any advise on what to use if I want to use it for a plate/steel armor? I'm thinking I should replace reikland fleshshade but I'm not sure with what
If you're finding the colour doesn't quite work over larger areas of silver or steel, you can wait until it's dry and hit those areas again with something like Nuln Oil, or just use Nuln Oil over them in the first place - you don't necessarily need to juice the entire miniature, it can be used a bit more controlled if needs be.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I was thinking Dark Tone on its own on the armor/metal bits? Or is Nuln oil generally better for metals?
Would it be sensible to try another version with more permanently-available materials, like artists' acrylic matt medium and inks?
Brilliant! Now I need to make one with nuln oil 😀
Great video!
This looks fantastic, might have to finally give it a go, unfortunately most western brands aren’t available where I live (Japan) so I guess I can use nuln oil in place of the dark tone, even though it’s not as good anymore?
I vote sledge sauce… though Sonic Tonic has a nice ring to it
Slightly off topic, but how do you paint the bases for the Napoleonic figures? I'm looking for something similar for my Romans! Cheers
That one's not painted at all, it's just War World Scenics 'Army Coarse' sand over some PVA, then given a very watered down layer of PVA again to seal it.
Have u tried making a black version of the sonic tonic yet?
Great stuff, will definitely try this out. Did you ever look into recreating 'Allys Brown Wash' with the current available washes?
Hey Sonic, if I may make a name suggestion, how does "Sonic's Wonder Wash" sound? You could patten the label with a lightning bolt logo like the one on Roy Hobbs baseball bat Lol. Quick question. Have you ever varnished your primed minis with gloss varnish before applying your shade then drybrushing over it all when it's dry? 👍
Would it work through an airbrush or by dunking the miniature into a big vat of th UMJ/Sonic Tonic?
I'm not sure it'd have the same effect through an airbrush, though I know people spray on their washes for all sorts of different effects. I'd just stick to a brush, personally.
Would you recommend this for a non metallic Alpha Legion?
Honestly, it depends on the green or blue you're using. The short answer is *probably*, but it's up to you. I wouldn't strictly recommend it for anything, since in a lot of cases there's going to be shades or washes that'll give you a better result, but this will *quickly* shade pretty much anything so... it's worth a shot!
Cool. I'll work up a test model and let u know.
Great vid!
How does this look over golds and reds? As a Blood Angels player I'm always looking at new and quick ways to knock out my Baby Boys quickly..
Literal liquid cheatsheet - it turned my wraithbone primed mk. iv marines into 80% heresy death guard!
Marine Sludge😁
When painting over a white undercoat, do you paint the metallic areas black first? Does it make a noticeable difference?
Sledge Shade, Juice of the Sledge, Sledge Sludge, Sonic Wash, take your pick, 😂, I'm off of to make some.
So can you just swap out the Reikland for other shades and it’ll work the same OR do the other shades have too much of a different transparency/consistency/tone that messes the formula?
I'm struggling with bases can you revisit bases in a future video?
Writing this down. I really dislike the new Agrax Earthshade.
never tried it but I really like the new nuln oil
I've had decent success with it by mixing it with the old nuln oil and some water if you still have any of that.
SLEDGE SAUCE 🗣️🗣️🗣️ SLEDGE SAUCE
Stumbled on this video from Reddit and while it is called "Marine Juice" I'm going to mix up a batch and call it "Deathwing Juice" because this looks like it would be fantastic as a wash for all my Deathwing models I'm about to paint up. Thanks for this!
Would this work well an a Blood angel aswell? =)
How long before you get good at applying a wash? Ive been painting for two years and I still get the coffee staining.
Without seeing what you're doing it's a little hard to give an answer to that. The simplest is often to use a bigger brush, though. I see a lot of people trying to apply shades over large areas with a layer brush or similar, and you're always going to get weird tide marks and stains like that.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio that could be it. I'm using a brush similar to what I use to apply basecoats.
I wonder if contrast medium would be better than lahmian
"no pun intended"... so why did i snicker?
Here to report that I'm an idiot and for some reason thought of guilliman flesh instead of reikland flesh.
Not sure how it holds.up to your mix but it still work really nice as a nice preshade
Sledgeslop!
What ml dropper bottles are you using? If it's not too much trouble
20ml, I think? It doesn't matter too much as long as they're big enough to fit that little bit extra you get in the Lahmian Medium bottle.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio fantastic thank you sir
Would this be suitable for ww2 Minis?
Absolutely. It’ll work for Civil War and WWI minis too. It’s good for all minis!
Has anyone tried this over metallics? I'm working on an Iron Warriors army and want tknkw if anyone can recommend
Has anyone tried Contrast Medium + new Riekland + new Nuln Oil yet?
I wonder if you called it Sledge Sauce it will soon be shortened in the comments to SS 😮. You tube might not like it