I talked about not knowing the value of these caps. The spot I was looking at on the schematic was actually for the _left_ USB port, because U4600 is on the main logic board. I'm not sure why this is labelled 'Right USB Port A' on the schematic, but it explains why the bypass caps don't match the Right IO board. The RIO board uses the same chip as the U4600, so we can use it as a guide for what we're seeing on the RIO board, but the bypassing is clearly different. After working on another 820-4924, I noticed C6412 (47uf 6.3v) and I think that's a match for what we needed.
@@AliensInc. Yea this was an oversight when I was recording this. I thought the case-size of the cap was odd and I hadn't seen one elsewhere on the board, but as I said above, I think I wasn't looking hard enough in this case. As I said in the video though, I generally strive to replace parts, so this isn't a habit.
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
Good job Graham. I had a shorted IO board on an A1502 once and it also was one of the black capacitors. I did like you did and left it off. The computer worked just fine.
Size. Most similar caps I've seen are a lot taller. But my initial reading of 43uF threw me off and I didn't look hard enough to find an equivalent. As I said in the video though, I generally strive to replace parts, so this isn't a habit.
Another great video. I often see you using software to read the schematic and it allows you to find components and their connection path, what's it that you use, does it work with PDF's
What happens when you do not add that missing capacitor? Nothing at all, the computer will work just fine. However, the remaining capacitors are going to handle all the load now, so one of them might fail sooner than expected.
Apply some low voltage to the circuit and use millivolt scale of your multimeter to check the voltage drop across these caps, the one with lowest value will be the culprit. This approach is better than a guess work and wasting time in removing all components and then testing them individually.
Adamant I have a problem with a MacBook Air, it won't start. It shows no signs however if I hold down the power button having unplugged the charger for 10 seconds and insert the charger after 10 seconds still holding down the power button then the power supply LED does not light up but the MacBook Air early 2015 model 1466 starts the fans and you can hear the fans starting, I can then turn the fans on and off if I hold the power button but the screen remains black. if I reset the power supply or remove the power supply it goes back to showing no signs.
Thank you Graham for all your videos, I have learned a lot from you. Could you perhaps send a link for the power volt/amp meter in the upper left screen? I would like to purchase one. Thank you.
With capacitors, you can change the voltage but you shouldn't mess with capacitace. If there was a 6.3v cap and you are thinking of putting a 6.3v, you can put xuF 10v in-place of 6.3v. You can/could have measure what voltage you were getting on the points where that unkwon cap was... oh alright 5v... you could put a 6.3v or a 10v. The 10v ones will have more threshold when a small spike arises when an device is plugged. Internet probably could provide which values by Cxxxx.
Nope, just also made by PLD. This is one of his prototype samples. The final product sits in a "completely functional, but not really economic to mass produce" conundrum.
From someone with no idea on electronics. How can this laptop work if it’s missing a capacitor? Surely it was there for a reason and shouldn’t work without it?
A lot of capacitors are basically there for redundancy and protection. In this case its essentially a small power bank, to help with the initiall power draw of whatever you plug in to the usb port, while the rail catches up. And because they are connected in parallel rather then series, if one fail or in this case is missing the rest will stil function. A good example of this is the christmas tree lights. If the chain is connected in series, and one bulb fails, none will work. While if they are connected in parallel, a induvidual bulb can be missing while the rest still works. Now obviously in this case the failed capacitor shorted the rail to ground and thus will not function.
6.3V cap well caps & resistors have what's called preferred values & as for why the hell you didn't go straight to voltage injection has me stuffed as time is money find it fix it n fark it off asap.
I try to wait and do things the long way first - I've got a video coming up where I talk a bit more about this, a lot of learners are skipping all the critical thought in diagnostics and randomly injecting without really understanding what they're looking at or doing, and I'm trying to get people to understand circuit analysis more _before_ they inject. As is the case with the upcoming video, injection often ends up being a solution, and analysis can lead you astray, but it's important to at least try. The experienced among us will automatically know when to go directly to injection, but that 'gut feeling' or past experience doesn't come across well in videos, hence why I keep seeing instances in repair discords where someone stabbed injection on CPU vcore and expected a capacitor somewhere else on the board to get hot. TL;DR - using a calculator is faster, and probably more accurate that doing the maths in your head, but you still need to _know_ that theory so you know when to use the calculator. That's what I'm trying to tell people.
@@Adamant_IT I understand your trying to teach newbies but I get frustrated watching this logical process because I've been a tech 40yrs & I do in & out quick 15-20 jobs a day & yes I've seen my fair share oop's Vcore injections which obviously end with a stuffed CPU or chipset from too much voltage with a shorted high side mosfet I also have seen lots of SIO/EC attempted replacements without programming, IMO people shouldn't play with things they think they a little bit about because it always costs them lots more than to just bring it to me to fix. BTW: I wish my VC99 still looked that good, mines had a very hard life.
@@preston963 Yea this channel is more about bridging the gap between the basics and the experts. The objective is to try and take methods the experts use and explain what leads up to them. If all I did was injection-stab and then replace the hot cap, with no other analysis, there's not much point in making the video IMHO.
@@Adamant_IT I totally agree it wouldn't make for much of a video, but your still young enough to have the spark & desire to do this were I tired old cranky & bitter so there's no way in hell I'd ever make a video, do I knowledge hell yeah do I want to share it yes but on a 1 on 1 basis where I can show a keen young electronics hobbyist who wants to learn & become a tech & I have done this with a few young bloke who are keen enough to approach my business & ask if they could watch & learn & some where naturals to electronics & got what I taught them & others well not so much, it's currently 10:54pm in OZ & I might be haveing a beer or 6, cheers Adam have a good arvo mate.
I talked about not knowing the value of these caps. The spot I was looking at on the schematic was actually for the _left_ USB port, because U4600 is on the main logic board. I'm not sure why this is labelled 'Right USB Port A' on the schematic, but it explains why the bypass caps don't match the Right IO board. The RIO board uses the same chip as the U4600, so we can use it as a guide for what we're seeing on the RIO board, but the bypassing is clearly different. After working on another 820-4924, I noticed C6412 (47uf 6.3v) and I think that's a match for what we needed.
and since js7 is code for that value
@@AliensInc. Yea this was an oversight when I was recording this. I thought the case-size of the cap was odd and I hadn't seen one elsewhere on the board, but as I said above, I think I wasn't looking hard enough in this case. As I said in the video though, I generally strive to replace parts, so this isn't a habit.
no worries mate, we're all human.
Luv your repair vids
47uF is a standard value. I was saying "47" when you were saying "43."
Hello sir, where do you find the schematics for the MacBook pros
As far as I know js7 is 47uF and 6,3V and searching for it shows that. found a vishay pdf of that
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
Very interesting - learnt a lot. Weird that the capacitors weren't on the schematic. Thanks.
Resp Sir! Very Nice Sir. Thank U Sir. -- ChinnaRao Paderu Andhrapradesh
That was very interesting, many thanks.
Good job Graham. I had a shorted IO board on an A1502 once and it also was one of the black capacitors. I did like you did and left it off. The computer worked just fine.
What software are you using to view the schematics?
so wait, what stopped you to take any general purpose 47uF cap that is SMD and rated at least 6V3 and to put it there?
Size. Most similar caps I've seen are a lot taller. But my initial reading of 43uF threw me off and I didn't look hard enough to find an equivalent. As I said in the video though, I generally strive to replace parts, so this isn't a habit.
why you remove caps with no logic at all... just inject voltage on that trail and find what caps are hot... 1 min. job
Where can I get schematics for mac books and windows machines ?
Another great video. I often see you using software to read the schematic and it allows you to find components and their connection path, what's it that you use, does it work with PDF's
What happens when you do not add that missing capacitor? Nothing at all, the computer will work just fine. However, the remaining capacitors are going to handle all the load now, so one of them might fail sooner than expected.
Nice and first resistance we didnt see….
Apply some low voltage to the circuit and use millivolt scale of your multimeter to check the voltage drop across these caps, the one with lowest value will be the culprit. This approach is better than a guess work and wasting time in removing all components and then testing them individually.
Great meticulous work... Thank you...
Why don't you do volt injections and go through all this long video 😮😮
to learn
Adamant I have a problem with a MacBook Air, it won't start. It shows no signs however if I hold down the power button having unplugged the charger for 10 seconds and insert the charger after 10 seconds still holding down the power button then the power supply LED does not light up but the MacBook Air early 2015 model 1466 starts the fans and you can hear the fans starting, I can then turn the fans on and off if I hold the power button but the screen remains black. if I reset the power supply or remove the power supply it goes back to showing no signs.
Disconnect the screen and try a HDMI adaptor. Should tell you if it's a display fault or a board issue.
@@Adamant_IT Thank you Adamant, I try 🤝
Great work as always. Thank you
bro,you are sick.why dont you just use the thermal camera from the begining?lol
Thank you Graham for all your videos, I have learned a lot from you. Could you perhaps send a link for the power volt/amp meter in the upper left screen? I would like to purchase one. Thank you.
With capacitors, you can change the voltage but you shouldn't mess with capacitace. If there was a 6.3v cap and you are thinking of putting a 6.3v, you can put xuF 10v in-place of 6.3v. You can/could have measure what voltage you were getting on the points where that unkwon cap was... oh alright 5v... you could put a 6.3v or a 10v. The 10v ones will have more threshold when a small spike arises when an device is plugged. Internet probably could provide which values by Cxxxx.
29:27 - I am assuming you reconnected the battery...
What flux do you use for SMD and BGA?
Probably don't need them all, but there are loads of those caps on donor boards. Nice fix and thought process!
Minimal contribution to electronic waste even though not the most economical.
No h264ify in the land of fruit?
it's a 47uf 10V tantalum cap
Sir I m wondering what was that phone you used as a thermal camera????
Is that kind of software you installed or
It has special hardware???
Infiray P2 Pro camera attachment
My favorite kind of hunt. 😊
hi mate do you do online classes?
Did you mean to solder on top of the macbook lid? Is that safe?
It's a different broken screen I use as a heat-proof mat, not the actual laptop screen! 😅
Brilliant thanks 😊
Is the PD meter apart of the flexBV software?
Nope, just also made by PLD. This is one of his prototype samples. The final product sits in a "completely functional, but not really economic to mass produce" conundrum.
Great work
Hey Graham long time no see. Mmm, Macbook repair porn
From someone with no idea on electronics. How can this laptop work if it’s missing a capacitor? Surely it was there for a reason and shouldn’t work without it?
A lot of capacitors are basically there for redundancy and protection. In this case its essentially a small power bank, to help with the initiall power draw of whatever you plug in to the usb port, while the rail catches up.
And because they are connected in parallel rather then series, if one fail or in this case is missing the rest will stil function.
A good example of this is the christmas tree lights. If the chain is connected in series, and one bulb fails, none will work. While if they are connected in parallel, a induvidual bulb can be missing while the rest still works.
Now obviously in this case the failed capacitor shorted the rail to ground and thus will not function.
Interesting. Do you get paid for taking stuff AWAY and not adding anything 😂
Well, he get paid for fixing laptops, the laptop is working? :)
He added a working laptop into the customer's hands, you dolt.
6.3V cap well caps & resistors have what's called preferred values & as for why the hell you didn't go straight to voltage injection has me stuffed as time is money find it fix it n fark it off asap.
I try to wait and do things the long way first - I've got a video coming up where I talk a bit more about this, a lot of learners are skipping all the critical thought in diagnostics and randomly injecting without really understanding what they're looking at or doing, and I'm trying to get people to understand circuit analysis more _before_ they inject.
As is the case with the upcoming video, injection often ends up being a solution, and analysis can lead you astray, but it's important to at least try. The experienced among us will automatically know when to go directly to injection, but that 'gut feeling' or past experience doesn't come across well in videos, hence why I keep seeing instances in repair discords where someone stabbed injection on CPU vcore and expected a capacitor somewhere else on the board to get hot.
TL;DR - using a calculator is faster, and probably more accurate that doing the maths in your head, but you still need to _know_ that theory so you know when to use the calculator. That's what I'm trying to tell people.
@@Adamant_IT I understand your trying to teach newbies but I get frustrated watching this logical process because I've been a tech 40yrs & I do in & out quick 15-20 jobs a day & yes I've seen my fair share oop's Vcore injections which obviously end with a stuffed CPU or chipset from too much voltage with a shorted high side mosfet I also have seen lots of SIO/EC attempted replacements without programming, IMO people shouldn't play with things they think they a little bit about because it always costs them lots more than to just bring it to me to fix.
BTW: I wish my VC99 still looked that good, mines had a very hard life.
@@preston963 Yea this channel is more about bridging the gap between the basics and the experts. The objective is to try and take methods the experts use and explain what leads up to them. If all I did was injection-stab and then replace the hot cap, with no other analysis, there's not much point in making the video IMHO.
@@Adamant_IT I totally agree it wouldn't make for much of a video, but your still young enough to have the spark & desire to do this were I tired old cranky & bitter so there's no way in hell I'd ever make a video, do I knowledge hell yeah do I want to share it yes but on a 1 on 1 basis where I can show a keen young electronics hobbyist who wants to learn & become a tech & I have done this with a few young bloke who are keen enough to approach my business & ask if they could watch & learn & some where naturals to electronics & got what I taught them & others well not so much, it's currently 10:54pm in OZ & I might be haveing a beer or 6, cheers Adam have a good arvo mate.
@@Adamant_IT I appreciate your videos and explanations.