dsp4 just bought my 03 sea doo gtx supercharged and looked up what I have to do.....i'm putting it up for sale tommorrow this would probably cost every year what its worth used 😣
I am a second year owner, and I have to try this my self. Hopefully I could do this on the spring of 2023. This was one of the best or probably the best tutorial I have seen on any YT channel. Thank you Sir this was very informative, interesting, and impressive.👍👍up
Everyone talking about this is overKill, ABSOLUTELY NOT, this is just how you are SUPPOSED to properly maintain your ski. Thank you 3ftDeep for this video. By far the best ski winterization video on youtube. Great job.
Thanks! We expected the negative comments, though as lots of people (including our friends) don’t want to put the work into the machine. That may be okay for a car that has all its failures on land, but when you take your machine out in the ocean for long rides …
@@3ftDeepChannel 100 percet. Plus the longevity of your machine and protecting your investment. Hell even for the possibly cutting my season short due to repairs bc of failed maintenance. Growing up my Father instilled taking car of my equipment and engines, and ive lived by that. To me working on my machines (motorcycles, cars, trucks, boat, skis, snowblower, lawnmower, powerwasher, generator etc etc etc) is therapeutic. I enjoy wrenching on them with a beer. And if something goes wrong, im more familiar with that machine and could diagnose and fix the problem myself. Any negative comments from doing a job the RIGHT way, are just from people too lazy to put that work in, but then complain when something goes wrong.
What a great video. I was able to go step by step through the entire process without any issue. Video was clear and technical enough for a first time owner to complete a winterization.
First thing first, this video is very informative just like all the other videos in this channel. However, I think winterizing can be fairly simple if you add fuel stabilizer to a full tank of premium fuel then run 3 gallons of 50-50 antifreeze in a flush(without water) to get rid of any potential freezing water in the exhaust. This will also run the stabilized fuel through the engine to mix with other fuel that is not in the tank 2. Spray fogging oil in the carburetor for a second then stop then another second then stop until it chokes. Then spray the brp anti corrosion spray on your engine, IBR, Jet nozzle, water intake. Also connect your battery to a trickle charger.
@@stopxthisxfall an older one not fuel injected? I have had some that lasted 10 years before I threw them into a gorge. Professionally I'd say rotax engines that are carburated will last a surprisingly long time if you rebuild the top end at the proper intervals written down in the service manual and you rebuild the carbs atleast every 3 years but take them apart before each season. As well as replace the tempo fuel lines. Service your jet pump and rebuild it every 3 years but service them and tear apart and inspect before each season. New ones? Well just asking that cost you a 2nd mortgage
Love the attention to detail! Better to do more than less. Maintenance center visits are expensive for power sports. That PWC will last a very long time.
Thank you for posting this detailed winterization video. Local shop wants $160 per hour plus parts to do this. I have mechanical abilities and can see this isn't to complicated. I was using marine grade stabilization treatment but i will give the other a try. Again this was a great video.
First and foremost I want to say this video helped save me $100's of dollars. I just bought my first ski (2016 GTI 130) and was pressured pretty hard by the dealer to ensure I bring it in for standard maintenance and winterization and was pretty much set on spending that money until I seen this video. Very thorough, very well thought out, and very informative. I am not a mechanic by any means and am able to perform these simple yearly tasks and again it has saved me a ton of money this year and many to come. I would like to say thank you on behalf of all of us who have received the same benefit. I am a little hesitant yet, to mess with the jet pump though. I do have one question if I may......I see you are using XPS Anti-Corrosive Lube for the fogging portion. I dont have that port like you do but I figured I would just take the plugs out spray the cylinders and Flood mode start the the engine a couple times, like I see others do. But I see that there is XPS fogging spray as well and I have seen some do that as well. Whats the difference between the two sprays as it seems they are very similar in nature and use?
That's a very good question. I'm not sure why they sell both for the same purpose, but both seem to get the job done and I've used both in the past. The most important thing is that the internal components get a light coat of oil so they don't corrode during storage. Glad to hear you're saving money with our videos ...that's the reason we make them. We appreciate your compliments; they certainly help to keep us motivated. As for the pump, that's a must. You need to check the impeller cover for water once a year, and unfortunately you need to remove the pump to do so. If water (especially salt water) gets in there, it'll destroy the internal components very quickly. It also indicates failure of one or more seals that will need addressing. Good luck, and thanks for your comment.
I've been watching and enjoying your videos for several years now. Just wanted to say thank you for doing such a great job. I have the exact same machine as you do in the video. Your videos have given me the know how and confidence to do my own maintenance.
@@3ftDeepChannel Have you ever had to change the spark plug tubes on your gtr 215, because of oil collecting at base of spark plug well. Got any tips on where I could find some info on doing this job.
Yes. It's a very simple job. You need to remove the valve cover and the spark plugs and the spark plug pipe can just slide out. Before spending the $$ on new ones though, you may want to try using some liquid "engine gasket" to make a new seal around the lip. We did, and so far it's holding up. It's not as good as new tubes, but at USD $25 each, we felt it was worth a try. Good luck.
Thanks for a speedy reply. I just finished watching the video on valve spring replacement and saw what I needed to do. Looks pretty simple. I'm going to take it apart and try sealing it 1st. Will I need a valve cover gasket for this job? Did not see anything in video about it. Thanks again, your videos are very much appreciated.
Very beautiful machine, sir!! It's been 35 years since I was in a boat on a lake.. Maybe next summer, I'll get a machine like yours. I was going to get a normal boat, and have fun with Dad, and maybe my Sister and her family.. But he recently passed away. Anyway, great video!
I am mot even a jet ski owner (not yet) and I really like your hands on step by step Winterizing maintenance. I want to some day own one , first I want to lean how to maintain one ? Suggestions for a novice to be there ?
I suggest that if you're getting a used machine, get one no older than 5 years old and make sure there's no rust (that's a sign it wasn't well-maintained). I would also avoid machines with a supercharger and intercooler to begin with (in other words, machines 155 HP or less). They'll be less expensive to maintain, and give you an opportunity to learn on slightly simpler machines. Good luck!
Love... it brings a tear to my eye! ;-) However I am surprised you didn't pull the jet pump to inspect the impeller, wear-ring and the drive shaft spines (I like to put a dab of marine grease inside the impeller drive socket before I put the pump back on, for good measure). You got the nozzle off already, four 11/16 nuts and 1 hose clamp and the entire pump comes right off. I'd also like to add that more than a few SeaDoo's have sank after the forward intake grate bolt came loose and fell out... the forward bolt hole on most year models goes clean thru to the inside of the hull! No bolt, probably no intake grate left (it'll snap off, you may not even realize it's gone) and water comes in thru the open bolt hole. A running engine will pull this water out continuously, but tie up to a dock and go grab lunch you may return to find the machine has sank after an hour or so (OEM water extraction only works when the pump is turning)! It's a good idea to check the intake grate bolts for tightness at this time too. If you ever remove the intake grate for any reason always clean and re-treat the bolts with blue loctite!
The process I went through on the video was the "official" annual maintenance. Although I don't pull the pump every year, I actually did take it off that same time, but in another video ("How to Replace Your Wear Ring"), and everything was in perfect shape (the Triple-Guard Grease was even still on the splines). I check the state of the impeller, wear ring, stators, etc. visually through the back and intake grate. But you're right, it's nothing to remove the pump once you've got it taken all apart like that. Not sure why so many people are concerned about the drive shaft splines. I've never seen a problem with them. Great suggestion, though! Thanks for your comment.
+3ftDeep: I've heard of some spline failures at the impeller end... haven't heard a good explanation why the spines failed, though. So I just like to check mine annually, looking for any signs of wear or corrosion and then packing a dab of fresh marine grease into the impeller socket (where the shaft spines go when the pump is put back on). It's also easier to inspect the wear ring and impeller blades for damage with the pump out. Also since mine is supercharged I pull the air intake off the supercharger reach in with fingers and check the impeller to make sure it doesn't turn easily... a free spinning supercharger impeller is a bad sign of something wrong! I would not be surprised if there's more than a few out there riding all summer long not realizing their supercharger isn't working anymore! It's a shame there isn't some kind of boost indicator led on the instrument cluster that lights up when the supercharger makes at least a minimal amount of boost pressure.... just to let the rider know it's actually functioning. That's all. Regards and excellent video I might add!
Great video. I would add though that the oil level needs to be between the 2 bends on the dip stick. I have seen so many overfilled ski's this past year where the oil is at the top of the bend or higher.
Great video. You do things the right way. I have an ‘05 RXP 215 that I would like to winterize myself but I can’t find a specific video for my ski. Any suggestions? The dealer quoted me $300 for winterization & oil change but after reading so much about their shops not doing it right I’m not sure I can trust them.
That winterization process is very similar to that shown in the video. If you haven’t checked your jet pump in a while, you should look inside to make sure there’s no water intrusion. Also, I expect you’ve rebuilt your supercharger (at least once). If not, don’t start your engine again until it’s rebuilt. Good luck!
Amazing detal, thanks for putting this together! Any suggestions/differences on a 2003 GTX 4Tec? No supercharger. Live in MN and first winter with these is coming, just purchased them well maintained from a family friend and only road them 15-20 hours this summer after a fresh oil change. They will be stored in the garage for the winter, although not heated garage.
Thanks for the kind words! Your older machine is essentially the same, but you don’t need to worry about a supercharger or intercooler as you don’t have either. Although you didn’t put much time on your machine since you bought it, I’d still change the oil and filter at the end of the season before storage. Also, make absolutely sure you completely fill the fuel tank and add fuel stabilizer before running the engine for a minute or so. Make sure you purge the exhaust with compressed air to get rid of as much water as possible. If you haven’t checked your pump out since you bought it, make sure you remove it, check the seals and check for any water intrusion (you’ll see a milkiness in the jet pump grease if there is water). If you can keep your garage from freezing (with a small space heater), that’s always advisable. Good luck and safe riding!
Hi again, I successfully winterized my 2015 GTX Limited edition last year THX to your detailed video. I also was inspired and build the cart. I wanted to know when you tilt the Sea-Doo over to drain the water in the bilge, how is it not sliding off the cart on to the floor? Once again, amazing video.
Glad to hear we could help. Please don't try to drain the bilge the way we did it. The only thing keeping it on was friction. If at all possible, tilt it up while it's tethered on the trailer. If it's already off, make sure it's tethered to the cart. Thanks for your comment.
Great video! I just changed my oil for the year and hoping you could help me better understand the process. In a car, I have always checked the engine oil level while the engine is cold. In this video it is recommended to start the engine for 30 seconds and then let it rest for 30 seconds then check the oil level. Is it necessary to do this? What are the advantages?
Hamilton Borden Sea-Doo has calibrated the dipstick range for a hot engine with the oil that's been allowed to settle for 30 seconds at the time of the reading. There's nothing magical about it; it's just their way of ensuring consistency and accuracy. Thanks for your comment.
Impressive I only have 12 hours on my new seadoo Gtx 130 do u think just a wash clean oil change plugs battery tender automatic maintenance is good enough
Yes, you wouldn’t have to do much on your machine. Make sure it’s washed and the oil and filter are changed. Also, make sure you have fuel stabilizer. Those are the main things for a machine with such low hours.
Well, I wouldn’t bother replacing them with only 12 hours on them. If it is going to be in storage for a while and especially if you’ve used it in salt water, you really should fog the engine. It’s so easy to do.
Excellent video. I reference it every Fall. Two quick questions: I have a 2023 Sea Doo GTX 170 - In order to get an accurate oil level reading, do I need to let the engine run for 30 seconds then stop the engine and wait 30 seconds? Or is it OK to check oil level when the engine is cold? Also, what is the maximum that people should run the ski on idle out of the water, without a hose flush adapter? Thank you!
The engine should be at least a bit warm, and have turned over for a minute or so to distribute the oil. The problem is the carbon ring will get hot quickly, and you want to avoid heating it up too much. So, it's a trade-off. Make sure you never run the engine more than a minute or two at a time. We usually wait 10 minutes or so between running to let the carbon ring cool. When you don't run a hose the exhaust will get very hot very quickly. We never run the machine more than about 15 seconds without a hose. Good luck.
I agree with everything you did except fill fuel tank , I run mine to about 1/4 tank on my last run out and add enough stable in there for that , way I see it its better to add 3\4 tank of new gas in spring than to have a full tank of old in spring
The problem is with condensation of moisture from the air in the tank. Once it forms, it'll sink below the gas and could affect performance. That's why we fill the tank.
triple grease is a good product. im working in a Sea doo jet-center dealer so i know what im talking about, specially in salt water conditions . We are based in Mallorca
Triple-Guard Grease is definitely a must-have for Sea-Doo do-it-yourselfers. Seems like a cross between grease, sticky honey and wax. Pretty unique stuff, but seems to work incredibly well. Thanks for your comment.
Great video! I have always checked my car's oil when it is cold. Here it is recommended to let it run for 30 seconds then sit for 30 seconds then to check. Could you help me understand how that helps? What happens if you just check it cold?
No doubt its a bunch of work, but this machine will last with that kind of care...good job man! Any advise on the 2016 scarab jet boat winterization process?? Same engine, supercharged 200 hp rotax with closed loop cooling...any advise would be great!!
I bought my first ski this year - an RXTX 300 (closed cooling). Regarding draining the exhaust, the dealer insists on antifreeze but the owner's manual and this video show just blowing out the exhaust. I'm frightened by the thought of freezing water damage. is it worth considering antifreeze? Great video.
It's your intercooler you need to worry most about. It has delicate internal components. If you expect the temperature to drop below freezing you need to deal with it. If you don't blow out all the water from it and it freezes, it can cause serious damage. That's why some people take the additional precaution of flushing with special antifreeze (see ua-cam.com/video/Grd6IwYpdo4/v-deo.html). It's up to you to decide whether to do it or not. Good luck and thanks for your comment.
Great video, thanks. At 8m04s you mention the importance of inspecting for cover for water contamination. What steps should be take if an important amount of water leaks out when we remove the cone...? How do we find the source of the problem and what could be the fix?
The water can only leak in through two places: the impeller cover or the oil seal. As the impeller cover has two O-rings sealing the pump on that side, it's usually oil seal. Check both parts over thoroughly and look for any signs of damage, wear, or improper seating. If water is in the pump it's critical to remove it (especially salt water), and then pack with fresh grease. Replace the part that's allowing the water to enter. Don't delay, as I did with an older machine and the pump failed, came apart and caused water to pour into the engine. It left me stranded over night on an island (luckily they had a hotel). If both parts look okay but there is water in the pump, I'd replace the oil seal for sure, but check that the pump is not damaged or marked where the oil seal seats. Good luck!
I have this exact model. First season with my 2014 GTR 215 and live in Northern Minnesota. I will be storing my SeaDoo in an unheated storage unit. Is doing an exhaust system drain sufficient with air or will I need to use antifreeze? I have seen several different recommendations and not certain what is best for my circumstance? Otherwise, great video!
My 2012 manual doesn't suggest it. As long as you purge the exhaust well with air, you shouldn't have a problem with the internal intercooler freezing. With external intercoolers such as the 260 HP models, you should probably use the antifreeze. Good luck.
I too live in MN. I've always run in some marine/RV antifreeze and have not have a problem. Never blew it out with air though. Might do both this year, LOL,
I'm looking to reset the computer for the engine. I don't have a single engine, I have a twin boat not PWC. I have already changed the oil, but the port engine is telling me it needs maintenance. Any help would be awesome! Also thank you for the step by step yearly maintenance on these boats. They are so fun and very expensive if you don't do it yourself. It is almost like changing a car engine oil. These engines last forever if they are well taken care of.
Unfortunately, there are only 2 ways I know of to eliminate the maintenance minder: 1) take it to the dealer to have it serviced; or 2) purchase a Candoo Pro (or similar) and clear it yourself. We use a Candoo Pro, but I'm not sure if it's available for boats. You should check out their website: candoopro.com. Thanks for your comment.
Awesome video. However I’m having a hard time thinking that running the drown mode without oil is a good thing. Please help me understand so I know what to do. Would it be safer to just leave the oil in the oil filter? I have a sea doo spark
There's always a little oil in the system, so it's perfectly fine to do for very short periods. It's a recommended procedure in the Sea-Doo service manual for the GTR. Not sure about the Spark process, though. Good luck.
Thank you for very valuable video! I would like to start blowing through the cooling system of my Waverunner which many people and service manuals recommends before longer time storage periods. What worries me is a possibility to blow remaining water from nooks and crannies and droplets from pipes and hoses of the system into the motor if an exhaust valve is open. Not even by just pushing it into the motor, but by dragging it with the air stream. Out of tens of videos on UA-cam, only one person addresses this. I can see you deal solely with Sea-Doos, but perhaps you could provide your thoughts on it. Is this possible? If yes, mostly in theory, or in practice as well?
Moisture is always in the air when riding so it’s always in the engine, so I wouldn’t worry about the air droplets that come in with the purging process. It’s highly-recommended though that you fog the cylinders to prevent corrosion in the cylinders. The pressure we use is the one stated in the Sea-Doo Service Manual for our machine, which is not enough to blow water into the engine through an exhaust port. As you’ve got a Yamaha, however, you need to follow the process specifically for your machine as they are different. Good luck with your winterization and thanks for your comment.
Thanks for quick and detailed response. Even much less pressure seems to me to be enough to blow water into the motor/engine through an open exhaust valve, but maybe air does not flow there choosing more open passage with less resistance. As to the Yamaha, strangely there is not a single word about purging or fogging in FX 2022/23 Service Manual, so I need to research it. @@3ftDeepChannel
During the change of sparks plugs, you sprayed lube into each and then rolled over for a few seconds. Does this accomplish "fogging" during the spark plug change? I changed my plugs last spring so I am just going to check the plugs and fog. Should be okay fogging via the spark plug chamber? I saw another video where the fuel injector rail was removed and the fogging spray was sprayed in there instead. Thanks for a great video.
Yes, that is the fogging procedure. I'd do the same as you. I change the plugs each year, although you really don't need to. For a few extra bucks though, it's a little extra peace of mind. For some reason the manuals for the "newer" models only suggest fogging through the spark plug chamber (used to involve removing the fuel injectors), so that's all I do. It seems to do the job. Thanks for your comment.
Excellent turtorial - many thanks for your support! - Only one question . From the 7th minute, you are blowing out the remaining water with compressed air. According to the operating instructions, the motor should always be running so that no water damages the motor - can nothing be damaged by blowing in the compressed air and thus also the residual water, or do you have the motor running? Thank you ;-)
Fantastic video, showing how to DIY the right way. Thanks!!! One question: what would you add/change if your ultimate winter storage result was to be ski left covered and tarp, outdoors, on trailer, in Northeast (NY Long Island, east end), subject to snow/ice/sub freezing temps. Sadly, building a shed isn't an option at this time. Thx!
The winterization steps take into account sub-freezing temperatures, however, if I was expecting temperatures that may near the freezing point of the antifreeze in the engine, I would consider draining the coolant over the winter. Also, I'd consider emptying all of the water out of the water box(es)/muffler. If you have a model with an intercooler, I'd make absolutely sure I purged it like in the video, and if it was an external kind and it was going to get very cold, I might also consider removing it for the winter. Good luck, and thanks for your comment!
Thank you for the video. This will be my fifth year winterizing with the help of your tutorial, and every spring it starts right up and no issues all summer long. One question on torque settings...you say lbf.in you are measuring in "inch pounds" correct? every year I get stuck on that. Additionally, when I have inquired about having my seadoo winterized at a mechanic none of them were offering to remove the IBR, and nose-cup to check for water contamination, almost implying it was above and beyond. How often is it necessary to break down the impeller like that for a deep inspection? Thanks again!!
Yes, lbf.in is "inch pounds" and lbf.ft is "foot pounds". As for the nose cup, if there's no water in it then there was no benefit in checking it (except peace of mind). If there is and you use it regularly in salt water, it'll rust away your bearings, etc. in no time and you'll be very glad you checked. I had a 2003 GTX 185 that hadn't been checked and the pump fell apart into the ocean when we were about 30 miles away from home. The inner parts of the pump had rusted out due to water intrusion. Needless to say, I now check every year. I haven't, however, had water intrusion in my newer machines so I have to agree it does seem like a waste of time sometimes, but I do it anyways. It's really up to you, but it's recommended by the manufacturer that it's done once a year. Good luck.
If you get lots of light scratches on the bottom of the hull do you polish them out? I found polishing or waxing the underside made the ski handle differently.
We don’t normally polish them out, but yes waxing and polishing the underside of the vehicle can make a difference to how it rides, depending on the condition of the hull.
hi there thanks for the detailed schooling on how to does the air in the water inlet remove all the water or is there always some still in there what is the thirts on salt away ?
Great video and I learned a lot. I see you did a quarter turn after you hand tightened the spark plugs. Would you know what the torque would be using a torque wrench to tighten the spark plugs? Thanks, Rick
There is no specific recommended torque. The instructions are to hand tighten, and then do another quarter turn using a wrench. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for your response. I guess my final question is would that same rule apply if I were to re-install the same spark plug vs a new spark plug. I'm thinking that once a new spark plug has been installed, the washer on the plug has collapsed / seated after the quarter turn. So would the same quarter turn apply on a re-installed spark plug that already has the washer collapsed / seated and would a quarter turn be to much? Or can I buy new washers for spark plugs when re-installing ? Thanks again, Rick in Vancouver
That's a very good question. The answer is "no". The seating changes after that. I usually aim for a quarter turn anyways when old plugs, but be careful not to over-tighten. You've kinda got to go by feel at that point. Snug, but not over-snug. I wish I could be more specific. Maybe one of our readers has some advice ...
Very detailed, thanks for doing the video. Is it okay to run without water? I always run mine with the hose. There is a graphite seal that requires water for lubrication.
It's okay to run without water for short (about a minute or so) periods, for the reason you mention. But the cooling issue remains whether you run it with water or not, as the water only cools the exhaust and not the carbon ring. Thanks for your comment!
@@3ftDeepChannel Okay. Thanks. You guys have great content on UA-cam! One more quick question. I have two '08 GTX series with 100 hours on them, just had to put new pump bearings in the jet pump because there was no grease in the bearings it all flown to the cone. I replaced the bearings and used gear oil instead of grease. Have you heard of doing this? I have one use on them yesterday so far so good. 🤔
Chris does that. He swears by it, but I stick with the thick stuff that seems to accumulate in the cone. Neither of us have had any problems either way, but I always go by the manufacturers recommendations. Good luck.
Newb question here but I just changed the oil in my 2015 GTR. To make a long story short I think I over filled the oil however when I check the oil after running it for 30 seconds, there will be oil sticking to the dip stick but when I wipe it off and put it back in and check it there is no oil on the dipstick at all. I leveled out the trailer on the rub rail so im pretty sure its leveled. Dose the engine have to be at operating temp before checking the oil? I didn't run it for 2 minutes on the hose so Im assuming im not getting a accurate reading. Im guessing its not too low because I would think I would get a oil light to come on correct? by the way thanks for your awesome videos!
The light won't necessarily come on if it's too low, or too high. It sounds like you're doing things correctly. The engine doesn't need to be warm. It seems to me you don't have enough oil, and you should add about a quarter of a liter at a time and recheck until the right level is reached. Good luck!
It's controversial (because it's so damn expensive), but I only ever use Sea-Doo's synthetic blend summer grade oil for 4-Tec engines. My manual says you can also use SAE 5W40 API service SM motor oil, but I never do.
Awesome detailed video, it inspired me to winterize my jet ski my self for the first time. I do have a question. I have a 2015 Sea Doo-GTX 260 Lmt after removing the oil filter cover and replacing the filter, I was unable to put the cover back properly. I can actually see the first O-Ring on the filter cover. Is that normal? Any help will be much appreciated.
Yes, strangely that's normal in the newer models. I don't know why they did that, but I have the same "problem". Don't over-torque it trying to get the cover to seat further down.
Wow, I was going nuts trying to figure this out ,I spent over 3 hours trying everything I could possibly think of to get it seated properly. Thank you so much for confirming this.
Stop thinking your professional mechanic neighbor will do shit for you just because of proximity or cheap. Or you'll end up beaten to death one day with a three foot pipe wrench. Unless said neighbor eats a half pound of meth every day. Then I'd say you must not really have a ski because he stole it
Did you not run water through the exhaust when you were bringing the jetski up to temperature and when you held at 4000 rpm? Just wondering as I am about to attempt all this. Thanks.
The owners manual says to always run water through the exhaust when the engine is running out of water, but we find that it’s okay as long as it’s no longer than a minute or so at a time. So in other words, we haven’t had any issue with doing this, but you should run it with the hose.
I wish there was a way to search in the comments to see if someone has already asked the same question......but why fill the fuel tank right up?? Wouldn't it be better to drain it as much as possible so you can add fresh fuel in the spring?
That’s to avoid having any air in the tank during storage. Air has moisture in it and will tend to condense on the sides of the tank during storage and dribble down into the fuel. Since water is heavier than gas it will sink to the bottom and can cause problems for your fuel system.
Awesome detailed vid. As usual! :-) I’m surprised about the fuel part though. With fuel having some much ethanol would it be better to not have any fuel in the system ? Can stabil really last that long?
You could drain the system of fuel, but it really seems to work well to just add the stabilizer and let it run for a bit. I also make sure I use the best fuel possible (yes, it's a bit expensive but if I wanted to save $$ I wouldn't be riding a PWC), and the better fuels contain very little (if any) ethanol. The fuel stabilizer is good for the winter season, but I wouldn't keep it in there for more than a year. Also, I've seen fuel systems "gummed up" during storage, and it's thought to be the result of using way too much fuel stabilizer. So I recommend using the stabilizer when storing, and following the manufacturers recommendations carefully. I also recommend filling up your tank with fuel at the end of the season to make sure no water condenses in the tank, which is a harder problem to fix than most people make out. Thanks for your comment.
3ftDeep I happen to agree that fuel containers, of any kind, should always have some sort of stabilizer in them, and to be as full as is possible, if left alone for more than 3-5 weeks, if not being used on a regular basis, or day to day usage, ... if not for the fact of displacing moisture, but also because the newer “unleaded fuels are much more coarse, in nature, & are also somewhat caustic to the various kinds of containers we use to contain them, ... the “older” regular gasolines would fire, a sparkplug, even if it had gasoline that was 20 odd years old in the tank, ... but these newer fuels seem to lose their punch after only several weeks, & @ tops, perhaps a few months, at best, ... Years ago, when I was a kid, I could leave gasoline in a can, in the garage over the wintertimes, but not the stuff they make these days, ... seems to gum up a lawnmower carburetor on the quick, & turn into a syrupy lacquer taffy if you let it set like that, nowadays, ... I always empty the fuel tanks on every type of gas device, no matter if it is a concrete saw, weed wacker, chainsaw, lawnmower, & vice versa, for a snowthrower, & associated tools, ... put fresh fuel in them, right before I go to use them, ... saving me money, spent on having to either fix it myself, or taking it into a shop, ... & being the cheap sob that I am, I prefer to keep my money for other more important things, like beer, Rum, or Takillya, ... or did I mention beer?, Yeah, ... I like beer! Lmbo! The thing is, that it takes just a few minutes to empty the tank on any given machine, ... & I won’t use it for anything else, ... so I add it to my oilburner heater for the garage, ... just a bit at a time, ... Did I mention that I like, ...
I've got 2 1.5L 200hp supercharged Rotax engines in my 2016 Chaparrel. This is basically the same engine right? I want to winterize them myself and save a few bucks.
awesome video. How about running RV anti freeze into the exhaust port? I have a big funnel that I can clamp to a water hose. I thought about starting the engine on my fish pro and pouring a gallon into the funnel and letting the exhaust suck it in just for peace of mind. Thoughts on this? Thanks!
I assume you're referring to injecting antifreeze into the exhaust system. Chris subscribes to that strategy, but I stick to the service manual for my machine and blow the air through the system to get water out (especially out of the internal intercooler). I don't know if it said a anything different for the 2008 models, but I suspect not. No matter what, you've got to get that water out of the intercooler if it's going to be below zero.
That's a bit cold. I avoid freezing temperatures altogether by storing in the garage over winter, but I've left my older supercharged machine outside in -12C (10F) without any problem for a few years. I always use fogging oil (and used it in the video) - you may have missed it. Thanks for your comment.
I was on a forum and came accross a service bulletin that you were supposed to dump antifreeze down the intercooler and manifold I believe ( maybe just the intercooler). Have you heard anything about this since this video? I can try and find the link again ifd you like
mgehrke20 Some people run antifreeze through the exhaust system at the end of the season, if the Sea-Doo is going to be stored in freezing temperatures. As some of that antifreeze will get into the intercooler, it would give it some protection against freezing and cracking. Chris does that. I like to purge the exhaust and intercooler system so there's no liquid to freeze (as in the video). I also store it in my garage, not outside. Thanks for your comment.
3ftDeep thanks for quick reply. Really like all your videos. Gonna save me alot of money doing all the maintenance stuff my self. Looking forward to some more.
in 2014, I bought a used 2013 GTI with 40 hours on it. Can't say anything about winterization procedures prior to owning it. There was some water in the hull that was clear but with a slight slimy consistency. I've soaked it up and maintained oil level and changes and monitored coolant level. It seems that the slime is coming from coolant but I can't pinpoint the leak. I've never had a mix of coolant in the oil, oil changes have been clean and dipstick looks good. I will use an inspection scope here soon to track it down, but do you know where the common leak points would be? I'll post back with what I find as I investigate further. Thank you!
I'm not sure what you mean by "slime", but I assume it's a "slick" you're seeing on the water in the hull. One thing to keep in mind is that the coolant is water soluble, so shouldn't create a slick (or slime), but the oil could. It may be that the previous owner had one or more spills while filling up the oil, and that's what you're seeing. Check all the hoses for leaks (especially at the connections), and check for broken hose clamps, as they can break by over-tightening and engine vibrations. Good luck and keep us posted.
+3ftDeep I will definitely keep you posted. I'm pretty savvy with motors and this clear slime had no look or feel like an oil slick I have ever seen. No color at all. I will inspect all the hoses again and will get under the motor and round sides with an inspection camera. I know it's coolant and not oil, just need to find where it's coming from. Motor runs and sounds great. Will update after the weekend. Thank you!
It was out of the weep hole. The hole was full of coolant, only held in there by the meniscus. Must have been small amounts as to not make the fluid in the hull very dark. Rotary seal replacement I guess.
Thanks for the update. Some of these machines came with 3 year warranties. You should check with the person you bought your machine from to see if it's still covered. Sounds like it should be. Good luck and thanks for sharing.
Do you not have to flush antifreeze through the flush port with a pump to protect the intercooler and exhaust from freezing? Also do you guys bother with removing the fuel rail to spray fogging oil in the intake manifold? Theres so much mixed info online its making my head spin. Lol
We do the RV Antifreeze flush (and have a video on that), but only when stored outside in sub-freezing temperatures. We don’t remove the fuel rail to spray fogging oil. The service manual stopped recommending that years ago, and I haven’t seen it recommended in any of the newer models. So, we only spray fogging oil directly into the cylinders through the spark plug hole. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel perfect thank you for the response! So flushing with antifreeze using a pump is enough to properly flush the internal intercooler on the 215 and so i should not have to mess with any hoses going in and out on the side of the intercooler? Im in toronto canada so it definitely goes below 0 in my garage in the winter
Hey guys great video. I’m about to do an oil and spark plug change on both my 03 GTX limited SC model. I was wondering, when running the ski to get it up to op temperature, how long does it need to run? Do I need to hook up to a hose to do this? Common sense would tell me yes but I noticed you weren’t hooked up to water. Thanks
That's the issue. You should preferably take it out for a ride, and change the oil right after while it's hot. Unfortunately, that's not always practical so we recommend running it briefly on a hose to get it warm, and then changing the oil. It should never run for more than a minute or two out of water though, even on a hose. I usually run it a few times with 5-10 minute break in between, to get it warmer. I may run the engine without a hose, but only for 5-10 seconds. They key is not to burn out your carbon ring, which needs water to keep from over-heating. Good luck.
Thanks for your reply. I’ve decided to take them both for a short cruise and then bring them home to service. You guys are a great service to the Seadoo community here on UA-cam
+Leon van Bergen For the oil: absolutely! For the spark plugs: not really, but they're relatively inexpensive and for a few bucks each you essentially eliminate a fouled plug from your trouble-shooting steps. I've done some rough calculations and have estimated if your average revs during riding is 5,000 RPM, you should change your oil every 20 hours, as this is equivalent to going 8,000 km in a car. I'm going to refine my numbers, but at 5,000 RPM I'm quite certain the time will not go above 40 hours. So at this point, I'm changing my oil between 20 and 40 hours and at the end of each season. Another thing to keep in mind is all the particulates in the oil (from wear) that are normally suspended and come out during the oil change will gradually settle over the winter to the bottom of the engine and form a thick sludge that may be difficult to get out next time you change your oil. Good luck and thanks for your comment.
+3ftDeep Update to this reply: I'm leaning more towards the 40 hour estimate. We may send some samples off to a lab for processing to get confirmation one of these days.
+3ftDeep I purchased a new seadoo 130 this year and the dealer told me between 40-50 hours for oil changes. What you say makes a lot of sense tho. Only have 28hrs on it, bringing it in next week for oil change and winterize. Average speed for me is 35-40mph all the time. Went up to 54-55mph 2-3 times only for 10 seconds a the most during those 28hrs..
Great video! Quick question, the “xps lube” you spray during the spark plug change…can I use the Xps anti corrosive spray for that or is it the “Xps storage oil?” I’m finding people use both wondering if it matters?
The anti-corrosive sprays tend to be a little thicker, and the strategy here is to use a very light oil to effectively coat the cylinders and piston heads. Fogging oil tends to be very light, so I would stick with that. Good luck.
I used a product called "Grez-Off" (see www.canadiantire.ca/en/sports-rec/marine/boat-care/grez-off-heavy-duty-degreaser-0790133p.html?SearchVoice&AskAndAnswer&Default). I can't say it is the best product available, but it did an okay job. Thanks for your comment.
If you’re storing your machine outside or somewhere where the temperature drops below freezing, we will run some antifreeze through the exhaust. We have an older video on that procedure, if you’re interested.
Great video Question I have an 2006 4 Tec. I have been told I'll have issues every year because we only put 10-12 hours on it. Is that true? Also, to winterize (we get very little below zero but may go weeks below freezing) is it enough to run out water and fog injectors?
As long as you take good care of your machine, you shouldn't have a problem. What I mean by take care of it is ensure you NEVER leave salt water residue on your machine for any length of time. Also, ensure your pump is not leaking, you put fuel stabilizer in when storing, etc. (essentially do everything we show in our video). If you have a machine with an intercooler you need to make sure you've blown out all water before it freezes, if it doesn't have one it's not as critical but still advised. You should always do the fogging procedure, as this will minimize damage to the engine when starting up after winter storage. Good luck!
Sorry, stupid question. How do I tell if I have an intercooler? I have looked at the manual but it doesn't mention one. I'm not totally sure the model other than the 4tec. The 2006 4tec manual covers a variety of models. Is there a site I can load the vin and see what it tells me?
It’s indicated by the Horse Power of your machine. Anything 185 HP and higher has a supercharger. All models with 215 HP and higher have a supercharger and intercooler.
I have been researching about how much oil is actually removed & replaced. On the "how to" section of Greeenhulk forum, there is a detailed write up which mirrors this video (oil change part). One poster within the thread stated that although the 4-tec holds 4.5 QTs, that only ~ 3 QTs can be removed & replaced? Some claim 3.5 QTs. That sound right? If so, how is it that all the oil couldn't be removed?
That's right. I usually get about 3.5 QTs out. You can never get it all out, because all of the oil can't drain to where the end of the suction tube is. There's a great CG video showing the oil circulation in the Rotax 1503 engine to give you a better idea. I don't know where the original video came from, but it can be viewed here: ua-cam.com/video/C7zDoIy_QqQ/v-deo.html
Have you guys ever use a automotive suction tool that puts a vacuum in the cooling system. It removes all the air out then sucks in the coolant. I don’t know if I can use it on my 300 rxpx when I go to replace the coolant. Don’t want to damage any thing
Fair enough it’s just a way of not having to run, you know that carbon seal doesn’t like to run dry. Do you think it’s safe to use on a sea doo. I use it on a regular bases in the automotive world that I work in. Thanks again you guys are awesome as usual
I don’t see why you couldn’t use that system. I think the worst case scenario is that it wouldn’t do an effective job of draining the coolant. You should always bring extra (pre-mixed) coolant with you on your first ride after a flush anyway, so you can top it up in case it burps up some air during the ride. Good luck and thanks for the kind words.
Thanks for reply, you should clarify the ski needs to be running while clearing exhaust. I missed that part and blew it out with the ski off. Concerned 😔
My apologies, I wasn't paying enough attention to your question and the section of the video (I was out and replying from my iPhone). For the air purge, you don't need to have the engine running. If you're ever worried you have water in the engine, however, check the oil for any "milkshake" appearance. If the oil looks that way, run it for a minute or so, change the oil, and repeat until it's gone. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel thank you for the clarification! I did cross reference the owners manual, and yes 55 psi is correct! Also, no mention there to have engine running either. Mint! Thanks for future steps, if needed... Have a great day! Josh
Just got another jet ski. It has the oil under the engine in the hull, and also when I checked the oil level in the engine, it was overfilled. Engine runs ok. Is there any valve that lets extra oil go out, or something popped? Thank you.
I suggest cleaning all the engine out of the hull very thoroughly and then a short ride it after you removed the extra oil from inside the engine too, and then see if you can find where it’s coming from. It could be that it just spilled during the last time it was filled (or overfilled). Let us know. Good luck.
No water is supposed to enter the supercharger. It's not effective in purging water through an external intercooler; this needs to be done using another procedure.
Also, where did you get the maintenance book from you are using and do you order your seals from Amazon or does Sea Doo provide an O-ring kit you can buy? I was hoping that they would at least give you a standardized tool kit with the ski but no luck there.
You may be able to get one through your dealer, but they can be a bit pricey. They're also available online through various sources, including Amazon.com. I've pieced mine together through a variety of sources.
I watch a lot of mechanical and maintenance type videos. This is of the highest standard. Thank you.
Thanks!
@@3ftDeepChannel You're welcome!
This has got to be the most rigorous winterization process I've ever seen. I was expecting one of the final steps to be an engine rebuild.
LMFAO!
The engine rebuild is saved for the winter months, when we're bored.
Lmfaooo
Yea it's a bit of overkill!
dsp4 just bought my 03 sea doo gtx supercharged and looked up what I have to do.....i'm putting it up for sale tommorrow this would probably cost every year what its worth used 😣
This is the guy you want to buy a second hand ski from. 👍🏻👍🏻. Good job sir.
Thanks!
I am a second year owner, and I have to try this my self. Hopefully I could do this on the spring of 2023. This was one of the best or probably the best tutorial I have seen on any YT channel. Thank you Sir this was very informative, interesting, and impressive.👍👍up
Thanks, Sergi! Good luck with your service.
Everyone talking about this is overKill, ABSOLUTELY NOT, this is just how you are SUPPOSED to properly maintain your ski. Thank you 3ftDeep for this video. By far the best ski winterization video on youtube. Great job.
Thanks! We expected the negative comments, though as lots of people (including our friends) don’t want to put the work into the machine. That may be okay for a car that has all its failures on land, but when you take your machine out in the ocean for long rides …
@@3ftDeepChannel 100 percet. Plus the longevity of your machine and protecting your investment. Hell even for the possibly cutting my season short due to repairs bc of failed maintenance. Growing up my Father instilled taking car of my equipment and engines, and ive lived by that. To me working on my machines (motorcycles, cars, trucks, boat, skis, snowblower, lawnmower, powerwasher, generator etc etc etc) is therapeutic. I enjoy wrenching on them with a beer. And if something goes wrong, im more familiar with that machine and could diagnose and fix the problem myself. Any negative comments from doing a job the RIGHT way, are just from people too lazy to put that work in, but then complain when something goes wrong.
What a great video. I was able to go step by step through the entire process without any issue. Video was clear and technical enough for a first time owner to complete a winterization.
Thanks for the kind words. It helps to keep us motivated!
First thing first, this video is very informative just like all the other videos in this channel. However, I think winterizing can be fairly simple if you add fuel stabilizer to a full tank of premium fuel then run 3 gallons of 50-50 antifreeze in a flush(without water) to get rid of any potential freezing water in the exhaust. This will also run the stabilized fuel through the engine to mix with other fuel that is not in the tank 2. Spray fogging oil in the carburetor for a second then stop then another second then stop until it chokes. Then spray the brp anti corrosion spray on your engine, IBR, Jet nozzle, water intake. Also connect your battery to a trickle charger.
no carb... FI
Followed this video exactly and now my Sea-Doo runs like a champ. Keep making videos!
Great to hear, Howard. Thanks for the comment!
Great detailed easy to follow video. Thanks for posting.
Hey, thanks!
I'm new to sea doo ski's. Thanks for taking the time to produce this excellent video. Very detailed right down to the bolt torque specs. Awesome!
Do you still have a Sea Doo? How is it holding up
@@stopxthisxfall an older one not fuel injected? I have had some that lasted 10 years before I threw them into a gorge.
Professionally I'd say rotax engines that are carburated will last a surprisingly long time if you rebuild the top end at the proper intervals written down in the service manual and you rebuild the carbs atleast every 3 years but take them apart before each season. As well as replace the tempo fuel lines.
Service your jet pump and rebuild it every 3 years but service them and tear apart and inspect before each season.
New ones? Well just asking that cost you a 2nd mortgage
Love the attention to detail! Better to do more than less. Maintenance center visits are expensive for power sports. That PWC will last a very long time.
Thank you for posting this detailed winterization video. Local shop wants $160 per hour plus parts to do this. I have mechanical abilities and can see this isn't to complicated. I was using marine grade stabilization treatment but i will give the other a try. Again this was a great video.
Great to hear you’ll be tackling this. You’ll save a fortune and have peace of mind knowing your machine that much better. Good luck.
3ftDeep thanks. Keep these videos coming. I found this to be extremely helpful.
First and foremost I want to say this video helped save me $100's of dollars. I just bought my first ski (2016 GTI 130) and was pressured pretty hard by the dealer to ensure I bring it in for standard maintenance and winterization and was pretty much set on spending that money until I seen this video. Very thorough, very well thought out, and very informative. I am not a mechanic by any means and am able to perform these simple yearly tasks and again it has saved me a ton of money this year and many to come. I would like to say thank you on behalf of all of us who have received the same benefit. I am a little hesitant yet, to mess with the jet pump though.
I do have one question if I may......I see you are using XPS Anti-Corrosive Lube for the fogging portion. I dont have that port like you do but I figured I would just take the plugs out spray the cylinders and Flood mode start the the engine a couple times, like I see others do. But I see that there is XPS fogging spray as well and I have seen some do that as well. Whats the difference between the two sprays as it seems they are very similar in nature and use?
That's a very good question. I'm not sure why they sell both for the same purpose, but both seem to get the job done and I've used both in the past. The most important thing is that the internal components get a light coat of oil so they don't corrode during storage. Glad to hear you're saving money with our videos ...that's the reason we make them. We appreciate your compliments; they certainly help to keep us motivated. As for the pump, that's a must. You need to check the impeller cover for water once a year, and unfortunately you need to remove the pump to do so. If water (especially salt water) gets in there, it'll destroy the internal components very quickly. It also indicates failure of one or more seals that will need addressing. Good luck, and thanks for your comment.
I refer to this video every year, thank you great work.
I've been watching and enjoying your videos for several years now. Just wanted to say thank you for doing such a great job. I have the exact same machine as you do in the video. Your videos have given me the know how and confidence to do my own maintenance.
Hey, thanks for the kind words! They help keep us motivated to make this kind of content. Take care.
@@3ftDeepChannel Have you ever had to change the spark plug tubes on your gtr 215, because of oil collecting at base of spark plug well. Got any tips on where I could find some info on doing this job.
Yes. It's a very simple job. You need to remove the valve cover and the spark plugs and the spark plug pipe can just slide out. Before spending the $$ on new ones though, you may want to try using some liquid "engine gasket" to make a new seal around the lip. We did, and so far it's holding up. It's not as good as new tubes, but at USD $25 each, we felt it was worth a try. Good luck.
Thanks for a speedy reply. I just finished watching the video on valve spring replacement and saw what I needed to do. Looks pretty simple. I'm going to take it apart and try sealing it 1st. Will I need a valve cover gasket for this job? Did not see anything in video about it. Thanks again, your videos are very much appreciated.
Unless it’s torn or damaged, you should be able to reuse the gasket. Good luck!
Very beautiful machine, sir!! It's been 35 years since I was in a boat on a lake.. Maybe next summer, I'll get a machine like yours. I was going to get a normal boat, and have fun with Dad, and maybe my Sister and her family.. But he recently passed away. Anyway, great video!
Thanks, Adam. Sorry to hear about your father. Have a great time on the water!
I am mot even a jet ski owner (not yet) and I really like your hands on step by step Winterizing maintenance. I want to some day own one , first I want to lean how to maintain one ?
Suggestions for a novice to be there ?
I suggest that if you're getting a used machine, get one no older than 5 years old and make sure there's no rust (that's a sign it wasn't well-maintained). I would also avoid machines with a supercharger and intercooler to begin with (in other words, machines 155 HP or less). They'll be less expensive to maintain, and give you an opportunity to learn on slightly simpler machines. Good luck!
3ftDeep
Who said I am interested in used ?
If I go one I go all NEW. so what sea doo you recommend for a beginner? I am 51
Love... it brings a tear to my eye! ;-)
However I am surprised you didn't pull the jet pump to inspect the impeller, wear-ring and the drive shaft spines (I like to put a dab of marine grease inside the impeller drive socket before I put the pump back on, for good measure). You got the nozzle off already, four 11/16 nuts and 1 hose clamp and the entire pump comes right off.
I'd also like to add that more than a few SeaDoo's have sank after the forward intake grate bolt came loose and fell out... the forward bolt hole on most year models goes clean thru to the inside of the hull! No bolt, probably no intake grate left (it'll snap off, you may not even realize it's gone) and water comes in thru the open bolt hole. A running engine will pull this water out continuously, but tie up to a dock and go grab lunch you may return to find the machine has sank after an hour or so (OEM water extraction only works when the pump is turning)! It's a good idea to check the intake grate bolts for tightness at this time too. If you ever remove the intake grate for any reason always clean and re-treat the bolts with blue loctite!
The process I went through on the video was the "official" annual maintenance. Although I don't pull the pump every year, I actually did take it off that same time, but in another video ("How to Replace Your Wear Ring"), and everything was in perfect shape (the Triple-Guard Grease was even still on the splines). I check the state of the impeller, wear ring, stators, etc. visually through the back and intake grate. But you're right, it's nothing to remove the pump once you've got it taken all apart like that. Not sure why so many people are concerned about the drive shaft splines. I've never seen a problem with them. Great suggestion, though! Thanks for your comment.
+3ftDeep: I've heard of some spline failures at the impeller end... haven't heard a good explanation why the spines failed, though. So I just like to check mine annually, looking for any signs of wear or corrosion and then packing a dab of fresh marine grease into the impeller socket (where the shaft spines go when the pump is put back on). It's also easier to inspect the wear ring and impeller blades for damage with the pump out.
Also since mine is supercharged I pull the air intake off the supercharger reach in with fingers and check the impeller to make sure it doesn't turn easily... a free spinning supercharger impeller is a bad sign of something wrong! I would not be surprised if there's more than a few out there riding all summer long not realizing their supercharger isn't working anymore! It's a shame there isn't some kind of boost indicator led on the instrument cluster that lights up when the supercharger makes at least a minimal amount of boost pressure.... just to let the rider know it's actually functioning. That's all. Regards and excellent video I might add!
I watch this every October for winterizing my Seadoo.
Great to hear, Richard!
excellent video, nice to see someone on youtube that really knows what he is doing
I've seen several videos on winterizing seadoo's and this was great to watch. Thanks so much!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video. I would add though that the oil level needs to be between the 2 bends on the dip stick. I have seen so many overfilled ski's this past year where the oil is at the top of the bend or higher.
Is it a problem if you over fill the oil..?
Mario M yes!!!!!! Engine damage for sure !!!!!
Mario M every time you over fill threse supercharged engines, the extra oil go to the intercooler and harm the performance of the ski in a big way.
Thorough job, detailed steps, but kept it simple too.
I would buy a seadoo off this guy in a second
Great video. You do things the right way. I have an ‘05 RXP 215 that I would like to winterize myself but I can’t find a specific video for my ski. Any suggestions? The dealer quoted me $300 for winterization & oil change but after reading so much about their shops not doing it right I’m not sure I can trust them.
That winterization process is very similar to that shown in the video. If you haven’t checked your jet pump in a while, you should look inside to make sure there’s no water intrusion. Also, I expect you’ve rebuilt your supercharger (at least once). If not, don’t start your engine again until it’s rebuilt. Good luck!
Amazing detal, thanks for putting this together! Any suggestions/differences on a 2003 GTX 4Tec? No supercharger. Live in MN and first winter with these is coming, just purchased them well maintained from a family friend and only road them 15-20 hours this summer after a fresh oil change. They will be stored in the garage for the winter, although not heated garage.
Thanks for the kind words! Your older machine is essentially the same, but you don’t need to worry about a supercharger or intercooler as you don’t have either. Although you didn’t put much time on your machine since you bought it, I’d still change the oil and filter at the end of the season before storage. Also, make absolutely sure you completely fill the fuel tank and add fuel stabilizer before running the engine for a minute or so. Make sure you purge the exhaust with compressed air to get rid of as much water as possible. If you haven’t checked your pump out since you bought it, make sure you remove it, check the seals and check for any water intrusion (you’ll see a milkiness in the jet pump grease if there is water). If you can keep your garage from freezing (with a small space heater), that’s always advisable. Good luck and safe riding!
I look at your video every year before I winterize mine just to make sure I’m not missing anything.
So do I! Thanks for your comment.
Wow looks like you're pro who actually work for dealership doing this :).
MUCH respect. This is exactly how to take care of something you love...details... and lube, nothing missed from head2toe. Thanx4sharing thanx4caring!!
Thanks!!
Hi again, I successfully winterized my 2015 GTX Limited edition last year THX to your detailed video.
I also was inspired and build the cart.
I wanted to know when you tilt the Sea-Doo over to drain the water in the bilge, how is it not sliding off the cart on to the floor?
Once again, amazing video.
Glad to hear we could help. Please don't try to drain the bilge the way we did it. The only thing keeping it on was friction. If at all possible, tilt it up while it's tethered on the trailer. If it's already off, make sure it's tethered to the cart. Thanks for your comment.
3ftDeep i'm glad I asked, thanks again.
Great video! I just changed my oil for the year and hoping you could help me better understand the process. In a car, I have always checked the engine oil level while the engine is cold. In this video it is recommended to start the engine for 30 seconds and then let it rest for 30 seconds then check the oil level. Is it necessary to do this? What are the advantages?
Hamilton Borden Sea-Doo has calibrated the dipstick range for a hot engine with the oil that's been allowed to settle for 30 seconds at the time of the reading. There's nothing magical about it; it's just their way of ensuring consistency and accuracy. Thanks for your comment.
Impressive I only have 12 hours on my new seadoo Gtx 130 do u think just a wash clean oil change plugs battery tender automatic maintenance is good enough
Yes, you wouldn’t have to do much on your machine. Make sure it’s washed and the oil and filter are changed. Also, make sure you have fuel stabilizer. Those are the main things for a machine with such low hours.
@@3ftDeepChannel do i even worry about spark plugs i did buy them
Well, I wouldn’t bother replacing them with only 12 hours on them. If it is going to be in storage for a while and especially if you’ve used it in salt water, you really should fog the engine. It’s so easy to do.
@@3ftDeepChannel how do u fog engine and they only go in freshwater
You remove the spark plugs and spray fogging liquid into each cylinder through the spark plug hole. The procedure is also shown in the video.
Excellent video. I reference it every Fall. Two quick questions: I have a 2023 Sea Doo GTX 170 - In order to get an accurate oil level reading, do I need to let the engine run for 30 seconds then stop the engine and wait 30 seconds? Or is it OK to check oil level when the engine is cold? Also, what is the maximum that people should run the ski on idle out of the water, without a hose flush adapter? Thank you!
The engine should be at least a bit warm, and have turned over for a minute or so to distribute the oil. The problem is the carbon ring will get hot quickly, and you want to avoid heating it up too much. So, it's a trade-off. Make sure you never run the engine more than a minute or two at a time. We usually wait 10 minutes or so between running to let the carbon ring cool. When you don't run a hose the exhaust will get very hot very quickly. We never run the machine more than about 15 seconds without a hose. Good luck.
I agree with everything you did except fill fuel tank , I run mine to about 1/4 tank on my last run out and add enough stable in there for that , way I see it its better to add 3\4 tank of new gas in spring than to have a full tank of old in spring
The problem is with condensation of moisture from the air in the tank. Once it forms, it'll sink below the gas and could affect performance. That's why we fill the tank.
Holy.... that was intense!
triple grease is a good product. im working in a Sea doo jet-center dealer so i know what im talking about, specially in salt water conditions . We are based in Mallorca
Triple-Guard Grease is definitely a must-have for Sea-Doo do-it-yourselfers. Seems like a cross between grease, sticky honey and wax. Pretty unique stuff, but seems to work incredibly well. Thanks for your comment.
Great video! I have always checked my car's oil when it is cold. Here it is recommended to let it run for 30 seconds then sit for 30 seconds then to check. Could you help me understand how that helps? What happens if you just check it cold?
it needs to let the oil circulate
No doubt its a bunch of work, but this machine will last with that kind of care...good job man! Any advise on the 2016 scarab jet boat winterization process?? Same engine, supercharged 200 hp rotax with closed loop cooling...any advise would be great!!
Thanks. I wish I could help you, but I don't have any experience with it. If I were you I'd follow the same principles as in the video. Good luck!
I bought my first ski this year - an RXTX 300 (closed cooling). Regarding draining the exhaust, the dealer insists on antifreeze but the owner's manual and this video show just blowing out the exhaust. I'm frightened by the thought of freezing water damage. is it worth considering antifreeze? Great video.
It's your intercooler you need to worry most about. It has delicate internal components. If you expect the temperature to drop below freezing you need to deal with it. If you don't blow out all the water from it and it freezes, it can cause serious damage. That's why some people take the additional precaution of flushing with special antifreeze (see ua-cam.com/video/Grd6IwYpdo4/v-deo.html). It's up to you to decide whether to do it or not. Good luck and thanks for your comment.
excellent video. just bought my first ski. will use this video in the future.
Thanks, Big Daddy! Congrats and enjoy your new machine!
Great video, thanks. At 8m04s you mention the importance of inspecting for cover for water contamination. What steps should be take if an important amount of water leaks out when we remove the cone...? How do we find the source of the problem and what could be the fix?
The water can only leak in through two places: the impeller cover or the oil seal. As the impeller cover has two O-rings sealing the pump on that side, it's usually oil seal. Check both parts over thoroughly and look for any signs of damage, wear, or improper seating. If water is in the pump it's critical to remove it (especially salt water), and then pack with fresh grease. Replace the part that's allowing the water to enter. Don't delay, as I did with an older machine and the pump failed, came apart and caused water to pour into the engine. It left me stranded over night on an island (luckily they had a hotel). If both parts look okay but there is water in the pump, I'd replace the oil seal for sure, but check that the pump is not damaged or marked where the oil seal seats. Good luck!
When you drain the oil, do you drain from the dip stick tube or the oil fill tube?
Great video. Thank you.
The dip stick tube. It sure would be a lot easier if it was the oil fill tube.
Great info. Thank you for taking the time to train the sea doo community.
And the Seadoo mechanics...lol
Great video, Thank you. Just purchased a GTI and am looking forward to working with it. This is a great way to learn my machine. Thx, James
Thanks, and good luck with your new machine!
I have this exact model. First season with my 2014 GTR 215 and live in Northern Minnesota. I will be storing my SeaDoo in an unheated storage unit. Is doing an exhaust system drain sufficient with air or will I need to use antifreeze? I have seen several different recommendations and not certain what is best for my circumstance? Otherwise, great video!
My 2012 manual doesn't suggest it. As long as you purge the exhaust well with air, you shouldn't have a problem with the internal intercooler freezing. With external intercoolers such as the 260 HP models, you should probably use the antifreeze. Good luck.
I too live in MN. I've always run in some marine/RV antifreeze and have not have a problem. Never blew it out with air though. Might do both this year, LOL,
Awesome vid. very thorough and correct way of doing this. you didn't miss a beat!
I'm looking to reset the computer for the engine. I don't have a single engine, I have a twin boat not PWC. I have already changed the oil, but the port engine is telling me it needs maintenance. Any help would be awesome! Also thank you for the step by step yearly maintenance on these boats. They are so fun and very expensive if you don't do it yourself. It is almost like changing a car engine oil. These engines last forever if they are well taken care of.
Unfortunately, there are only 2 ways I know of to eliminate the maintenance minder: 1) take it to the dealer to have it serviced; or 2) purchase a Candoo Pro (or similar) and clear it yourself. We use a Candoo Pro, but I'm not sure if it's available for boats. You should check out their website: candoopro.com. Thanks for your comment.
Awesome video. However I’m having a hard time thinking that running the drown mode without oil is a good thing. Please help me understand so I know what to do. Would it be safer to just leave the oil in the oil filter? I have a sea doo spark
There's always a little oil in the system, so it's perfectly fine to do for very short periods. It's a recommended procedure in the Sea-Doo service manual for the GTR. Not sure about the Spark process, though. Good luck.
Thank you for very valuable video! I would like to start blowing through the cooling system of my Waverunner which many people and service manuals recommends before longer time storage periods. What worries me is a possibility to blow remaining water from nooks and crannies and droplets from pipes and hoses of the system into the motor if an exhaust valve is open. Not even by just pushing it into the motor, but by dragging it with the air stream. Out of tens of videos on UA-cam, only one person addresses this. I can see you deal solely with Sea-Doos, but perhaps you could provide your thoughts on it. Is this possible? If yes, mostly in theory, or in practice as well?
Moisture is always in the air when riding so it’s always in the engine, so I wouldn’t worry about the air droplets that come in with the purging process. It’s highly-recommended though that you fog the cylinders to prevent corrosion in the cylinders. The pressure we use is the one stated in the Sea-Doo Service Manual for our machine, which is not enough to blow water into the engine through an exhaust port. As you’ve got a Yamaha, however, you need to follow the process specifically for your machine as they are different. Good luck with your winterization and thanks for your comment.
Thanks for quick and detailed response. Even much less pressure seems to me to be enough to blow water into the motor/engine through an open exhaust valve, but maybe air does not flow there choosing more open passage with less resistance. As to the Yamaha, strangely there is not a single word about purging or fogging in FX 2022/23 Service Manual, so I need to research it. @@3ftDeepChannel
sweet video...i dont appreciate the loud music...but You are amazing with the training!!!!!!!!
I think it's getting about time to rethink the music. You're not the only one who doesn't like it. Not sure our voices are any better, though.
During the change of sparks plugs, you sprayed lube into each and then rolled over for a few seconds. Does this accomplish "fogging" during the spark plug change? I changed my plugs last spring so I am just going to check the plugs and fog. Should be okay fogging via the spark plug chamber? I saw another video where the fuel injector rail was removed and the fogging spray was sprayed in there instead. Thanks for a great video.
Yes, that is the fogging procedure. I'd do the same as you. I change the plugs each year, although you really don't need to. For a few extra bucks though, it's a little extra peace of mind. For some reason the manuals for the "newer" models only suggest fogging through the spark plug chamber (used to involve removing the fuel injectors), so that's all I do. It seems to do the job. Thanks for your comment.
Awesome Video Thank you so much, my only question is what do you use to clean the engine bay with before rinsing with hot water?
I used boat hull cleaner.
Excellent turtorial - many thanks for your support! - Only one question . From the 7th minute, you are blowing out the remaining water with compressed air.
According to the operating instructions, the motor should always be running so that no water damages the motor - can nothing be damaged by blowing in the compressed air and thus also the residual water, or do you have the motor running? Thank you ;-)
we do not have the motor running, but the pressure is not enough, and there is not enough water in the system to get back into the engine.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thank you for this quick answer ;-)
Fantastic video, showing how to DIY the right way. Thanks!!! One question: what would you add/change if your ultimate winter storage result was to be ski left covered and tarp, outdoors, on trailer, in Northeast (NY Long Island, east end), subject to snow/ice/sub freezing temps. Sadly, building a shed isn't an option at this time. Thx!
The winterization steps take into account sub-freezing temperatures, however, if I was expecting temperatures that may near the freezing point of the antifreeze in the engine, I would consider draining the coolant over the winter. Also, I'd consider emptying all of the water out of the water box(es)/muffler. If you have a model with an intercooler, I'd make absolutely sure I purged it like in the video, and if it was an external kind and it was going to get very cold, I might also consider removing it for the winter. Good luck, and thanks for your comment!
Thank you for the video. This will be my fifth year winterizing with the help of your tutorial, and every spring it starts right up and no issues all summer long. One question on torque settings...you say lbf.in you are measuring in "inch pounds" correct? every year I get stuck on that. Additionally, when I have inquired about having my seadoo winterized at a mechanic none of them were offering to remove the IBR, and nose-cup to check for water contamination, almost implying it was above and beyond. How often is it necessary to break down the impeller like that for a deep inspection? Thanks again!!
Yes, lbf.in is "inch pounds" and lbf.ft is "foot pounds". As for the nose cup, if there's no water in it then there was no benefit in checking it (except peace of mind). If there is and you use it regularly in salt water, it'll rust away your bearings, etc. in no time and you'll be very glad you checked. I had a 2003 GTX 185 that hadn't been checked and the pump fell apart into the ocean when we were about 30 miles away from home. The inner parts of the pump had rusted out due to water intrusion. Needless to say, I now check every year. I haven't, however, had water intrusion in my newer machines so I have to agree it does seem like a waste of time sometimes, but I do it anyways. It's really up to you, but it's recommended by the manufacturer that it's done once a year. Good luck.
If you get lots of light scratches on the bottom of the hull do you polish them out? I found polishing or waxing the underside made the ski handle differently.
We don’t normally polish them out, but yes waxing and polishing the underside of the vehicle can make a difference to how it rides, depending on the condition of the hull.
Thanks for the info this explains a lot for me Ave only had the Ski 2 month also i enjoy your You tube feeds cheers guys
take my jet ski to a boat shop to be winterized
hi there thanks for the detailed schooling on how to does the air in the water inlet remove all the water or is there always some still in there what is the thirts on salt away ?
hi.. very informative and detailed... thanks.. what is that xps oil? can we just use fogging oil?
Yes, engine fogging oil works too. Thanks for your comment.
Great video and I learned a lot. I see you did a quarter turn after you hand tightened the spark plugs. Would you know what the torque would be using a torque wrench to tighten the spark plugs? Thanks, Rick
There is no specific recommended torque. The instructions are to hand tighten, and then do another quarter turn using a wrench. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for your response. I guess my final question is would that same rule apply if I were to re-install the same spark plug vs a new spark plug. I'm thinking that once a new spark plug has been installed, the washer on the plug has collapsed / seated after the quarter turn. So would the same quarter turn apply on a re-installed spark plug that already has the washer collapsed / seated and would a quarter turn be to much? Or can I buy new washers for spark plugs when re-installing ? Thanks again, Rick in Vancouver
That's a very good question. The answer is "no". The seating changes after that. I usually aim for a quarter turn anyways when old plugs, but be careful not to over-tighten. You've kinda got to go by feel at that point. Snug, but not over-snug. I wish I could be more specific. Maybe one of our readers has some advice ...
Great , thanks again for your response..Happy Holidays......
Very detailed, thanks for doing the video. Is it okay to run without water? I always run mine with the hose. There is a graphite seal that requires water for lubrication.
It's okay to run without water for short (about a minute or so) periods, for the reason you mention. But the cooling issue remains whether you run it with water or not, as the water only cools the exhaust and not the carbon ring. Thanks for your comment!
@@3ftDeepChannel Okay. Thanks. You guys have great content on UA-cam! One more quick question. I have two '08 GTX series with 100 hours on them, just had to put new pump bearings in the jet pump because there was no grease in the bearings it all flown to the cone. I replaced the bearings and used gear oil instead of grease. Have you heard of doing this? I have one use on them yesterday so far so good. 🤔
Chris does that. He swears by it, but I stick with the thick stuff that seems to accumulate in the cone. Neither of us have had any problems either way, but I always go by the manufacturers recommendations. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thanks for the info. I'll let you know if I have any issues.
Newb question here but I just changed the oil in my 2015 GTR. To make a long story short I think I over filled the oil however when I check the oil after running it for 30 seconds, there will be oil sticking to the dip stick but when I wipe it off and put it back in and check it there is no oil on the dipstick at all. I leveled out the trailer on the rub rail so im pretty sure its leveled. Dose the engine have to be at operating temp before checking the oil? I didn't run it for 2 minutes on the hose so Im assuming im not getting a accurate reading. Im guessing its not too low because I would think I would get a oil light to come on correct? by the way thanks for your awesome videos!
The light won't necessarily come on if it's too low, or too high. It sounds like you're doing things correctly. The engine doesn't need to be warm. It seems to me you don't have enough oil, and you should add about a quarter of a liter at a time and recheck until the right level is reached. Good luck!
awesome video. first time to own a seadoo and it's a sporteter '06 boat. I'm guessing same mechanism applies eh? Thanks
Pretty much. Some people have complained it's a lot of work, but if you want to keep your machines in great shape ... Thanks for your comment.
I can check my manual but I can I just ask you what kind of oil did u use? Thanks again. 😊
It's controversial (because it's so damn expensive), but I only ever use Sea-Doo's synthetic blend summer grade oil for 4-Tec engines. My manual says you can also use SAE 5W40 API service SM motor oil, but I never do.
Thank you I will be doing this soon here in New England... it's time.
Awesome detailed video, it inspired me to winterize my jet ski my self for the first time.
I do have a question. I have a 2015 Sea Doo-GTX 260 Lmt after removing the oil filter cover and replacing the filter, I was unable to put the cover back properly. I can actually see the first O-Ring on the filter cover. Is that normal?
Any help will be much appreciated.
Yes, strangely that's normal in the newer models. I don't know why they did that, but I have the same "problem". Don't over-torque it trying to get the cover to seat further down.
Wow, I was going nuts trying to figure this out ,I spent over 3 hours trying everything I could possibly think of to get it seated properly. Thank you so much for confirming this.
Thank you for this I was going nuts trying to figure this out!
We’re happy to help out. Good luck!
DANG THIS GUY IS AWESOME! I WISH HE WAS MY NEIGHBOR!!!!!
Stop thinking your professional mechanic neighbor will do shit for you just because of proximity or cheap. Or you'll end up beaten to death one day with a three foot pipe wrench.
Unless said neighbor eats a half pound of meth every day. Then I'd say you must not really have a ski because he stole it
Did you not run water through the exhaust when you were bringing the jetski up to temperature and when you held at 4000 rpm? Just wondering as I am about to attempt all this. Thanks.
The owners manual says to always run water through the exhaust when the engine is running out of water, but we find that it’s okay as long as it’s no longer than a minute or so at a time. So in other words, we haven’t had any issue with doing this, but you should run it with the hose.
I wish there was a way to search in the comments to see if someone has already asked the same question......but why fill the fuel tank right up?? Wouldn't it be better to drain it as much as possible so you can add fresh fuel in the spring?
That’s to avoid having any air in the tank during storage. Air has moisture in it and will tend to condense on the sides of the tank during storage and dribble down into the fuel. Since water is heavier than gas it will sink to the bottom and can cause problems for your fuel system.
The fitting to screw into the back to blow the water out and put new coolant in is a standard garden hose fitting ?
Yes. I don't know what you mean by the coolant, though. New coolant always goes into the coolant reservoir.
Awesome detailed vid. As usual! :-) I’m surprised about the fuel part though. With fuel having some much ethanol would it be better to not have any fuel in the system ? Can stabil really last that long?
You could drain the system of fuel, but it really seems to work well to just add the stabilizer and let it run for a bit. I also make sure I use the best fuel possible (yes, it's a bit expensive but if I wanted to save $$ I wouldn't be riding a PWC), and the better fuels contain very little (if any) ethanol. The fuel stabilizer is good for the winter season, but I wouldn't keep it in there for more than a year. Also, I've seen fuel systems "gummed up" during storage, and it's thought to be the result of using way too much fuel stabilizer. So I recommend using the stabilizer when storing, and following the manufacturers recommendations carefully. I also recommend filling up your tank with fuel at the end of the season to make sure no water condenses in the tank, which is a harder problem to fix than most people make out. Thanks for your comment.
3ftDeep I happen to agree that fuel containers, of any kind, should always have some sort of stabilizer in them, and to be as full as is possible, if left alone for more than 3-5 weeks, if not being used on a regular basis, or day to day usage, ... if not for the fact of displacing moisture, but also because the newer “unleaded fuels are much more coarse, in nature, & are also somewhat caustic to the various kinds of containers we use to contain them, ... the “older” regular gasolines would fire, a sparkplug, even if it had gasoline that was 20 odd years old in the tank, ... but these newer fuels seem to lose their punch after only several weeks, & @ tops, perhaps a few months, at best, ...
Years ago, when I was a kid, I could leave gasoline in a can, in the garage over the wintertimes, but not the stuff they make these days, ... seems to gum up a lawnmower carburetor on the quick, & turn into a syrupy lacquer taffy if you let it set like that, nowadays, ... I always empty the fuel tanks on every type of gas device, no matter if it is a concrete saw, weed wacker, chainsaw, lawnmower, & vice versa, for a snowthrower, & associated tools, ... put fresh fuel in them, right before I go to use them, ... saving me money, spent on having to either fix it myself, or taking it into a shop, ... & being the cheap sob that I am, I prefer to keep my money for other more important things, like beer, Rum, or Takillya, ... or did I mention beer?, Yeah, ... I like beer! Lmbo! The thing is, that it takes just a few minutes to empty the tank on any given machine, ... & I won’t use it for anything else, ... so I add it to my oilburner heater for the garage, ... just a bit at a time, ... Did I mention that I like, ...
Wow, thanks for the extensive tips! .PS we also like beer up here in White Rock ;)
I've got 2 1.5L 200hp supercharged Rotax engines in my 2016 Chaparrel. This is basically the same engine right? I want to winterize them myself and save a few bucks.
Sorry, I don't know the machine so I can't comment. Maybe GreenHulk.net can help out. Good luck.
awesome video. How about running RV anti freeze into the exhaust port? I have a big funnel that I can clamp to a water hose. I thought about starting the engine on my fish pro and pouring a gallon into the funnel and letting the exhaust suck it in just for peace of mind. Thoughts on this? Thanks!
Thanks! We actually have a video on that process (see ua-cam.com/video/Grd6IwYpdo4/v-deo.htmlsi=alBKV4c2NlEV3xXj). Good luck!
awesome video. Thank you for taking the time to post it. Very helpful
I have a 2008 rxt215 I was told I needed to run antifreeze threw my system is that true? Or will I be ok following the steps you provide here ?
I assume you're referring to injecting antifreeze into the exhaust system. Chris subscribes to that strategy, but I stick to the service manual for my machine and blow the air through the system to get water out (especially out of the internal intercooler). I don't know if it said a anything different for the 2008 models, but I suspect not. No matter what, you've got to get that water out of the intercooler if it's going to be below zero.
Thank You for great video!. So after this steps we can safely storage our "toys" outside with -40 F? What about fogging oil ?
That's a bit cold. I avoid freezing temperatures altogether by storing in the garage over winter, but I've left my older supercharged machine outside in -12C (10F) without any problem for a few years. I always use fogging oil (and used it in the video) - you may have missed it. Thanks for your comment.
When to oil change,,, for winterizing or for summer season? Thanks
We recommend an oil change at the end of each season, so the machine sits over the winter with fresh oil in the engine.
Not sure why I'm watching this. I live in Florida. Then again, informative!
I was on a forum and came accross a service bulletin that you were supposed to dump antifreeze down the intercooler and manifold I believe ( maybe just the intercooler). Have you heard anything about this since this video? I can try and find the link again ifd you like
mgehrke20 Some people run antifreeze through the exhaust system at the end of the season, if the Sea-Doo is going to be stored in freezing temperatures. As some of that antifreeze will get into the intercooler, it would give it some protection against freezing and cracking. Chris does that. I like to purge the exhaust and intercooler system so there's no liquid to freeze (as in the video). I also store it in my garage, not outside. Thanks for your comment.
3ftDeep thanks for quick reply. Really like all your videos. Gonna save me alot of money doing all the maintenance stuff my self. Looking forward to some more.
in 2014, I bought a used 2013 GTI with 40 hours on it. Can't say anything about winterization procedures prior to owning it. There was some water in the hull that was clear but with a slight slimy consistency. I've soaked it up and maintained oil level and changes and monitored coolant level. It seems that the slime is coming from coolant but I can't pinpoint the leak. I've never had a mix of coolant in the oil, oil changes have been clean and dipstick looks good. I will use an inspection scope here soon to track it down, but do you know where the common leak points would be? I'll post back with what I find as I investigate further. Thank you!
I'm not sure what you mean by "slime", but I assume it's a "slick" you're seeing on the water in the hull. One thing to keep in mind is that the coolant is water soluble, so shouldn't create a slick (or slime), but the oil could. It may be that the previous owner had one or more spills while filling up the oil, and that's what you're seeing. Check all the hoses for leaks (especially at the connections), and check for broken hose clamps, as they can break by over-tightening and engine vibrations. Good luck and keep us posted.
+3ftDeep I will definitely keep you posted. I'm pretty savvy with motors and this clear slime had no look or feel like an oil slick I have ever seen. No color at all. I will inspect all the hoses again and will get under the motor and round sides with an inspection camera. I know it's coolant and not oil, just need to find where it's coming from. Motor runs and sounds great. Will update after the weekend. Thank you!
The service manual gives some direction that it could be a faulty rotary seal if the weep hole has coolant flowing. Will update.
It was out of the weep hole. The hole was full of coolant, only held in there by the meniscus. Must have been small amounts as to not make the fluid in the hull very dark. Rotary seal replacement I guess.
Thanks for the update. Some of these machines came with 3 year warranties. You should check with the person you bought your machine from to see if it's still covered. Sounds like it should be. Good luck and thanks for sharing.
Quick question. How do you depress the throttle and crank the engine? In other words how do you get it to crank without actually starting?
The machine is designed to be in “drown” mode if you crank the engine while the throttle is depressed. It won’t fire up like that.
Do you not have to flush antifreeze through the flush port with a pump to protect the intercooler and exhaust from freezing? Also do you guys bother with removing the fuel rail to spray fogging oil in the intake manifold? Theres so much mixed info online its making my head spin. Lol
We do the RV Antifreeze flush (and have a video on that), but only when stored outside in sub-freezing temperatures. We don’t remove the fuel rail to spray fogging oil. The service manual stopped recommending that years ago, and I haven’t seen it recommended in any of the newer models. So, we only spray fogging oil directly into the cylinders through the spark plug hole. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel perfect thank you for the response! So flushing with antifreeze using a pump is enough to properly flush the internal intercooler on the 215 and so i should not have to mess with any hoses going in and out on the side of the intercooler? Im in toronto canada so it definitely goes below 0 in my garage in the winter
That’s how we do it. remember to purge with 55 psi of air, first, like we do. Good luck.
Also I couldn't tell was the engine on when your were blowing compressed air?
The engine is not supposed to be on during that part of the procedure.
Hey guys great video. I’m about to do an oil and spark plug change on both my 03 GTX limited SC model. I was wondering, when running the ski to get it up to op temperature, how long does it need to run? Do I need to hook up to a hose to do this? Common sense would tell me yes but I noticed you weren’t hooked up to water. Thanks
That's the issue. You should preferably take it out for a ride, and change the oil right after while it's hot. Unfortunately, that's not always practical so we recommend running it briefly on a hose to get it warm, and then changing the oil. It should never run for more than a minute or two out of water though, even on a hose. I usually run it a few times with 5-10 minute break in between, to get it warmer. I may run the engine without a hose, but only for 5-10 seconds. They key is not to burn out your carbon ring, which needs water to keep from over-heating. Good luck.
Thanks for your reply. I’ve decided to take them both for a short cruise and then bring them home to service. You guys are a great service to the Seadoo community here on UA-cam
Great video thanx!
Question, is it really necessary each year to replace the oil and spark plugs? I've put 30 hours on it this season.
+Leon van Bergen For the oil: absolutely! For the spark plugs: not really, but they're relatively inexpensive and for a few bucks each you essentially eliminate a fouled plug from your trouble-shooting steps. I've done some rough calculations and have estimated if your average revs during riding is 5,000 RPM, you should change your oil every 20 hours, as this is equivalent to going 8,000 km in a car. I'm going to refine my numbers, but at 5,000 RPM I'm quite certain the time will not go above 40 hours. So at this point, I'm changing my oil between 20 and 40 hours and at the end of each season. Another thing to keep in mind is all the particulates in the oil (from wear) that are normally suspended and come out during the oil change will gradually settle over the winter to the bottom of the engine and form a thick sludge that may be difficult to get out next time you change your oil. Good luck and thanks for your comment.
+3ftDeep Thakks a lot for the answere, everything is clear now !
+3ftDeep Update to this reply: I'm leaning more towards the 40 hour estimate. We may send some samples off to a lab for processing to get confirmation one of these days.
+3ftDeep Great work, i think i will keep doing it every end of the season!
+3ftDeep I purchased a new seadoo 130 this year and the dealer told me between 40-50 hours for oil changes. What you say makes a lot of sense tho. Only have 28hrs on it, bringing it in next week for oil change and winterize. Average speed for me is 35-40mph all the time. Went up to 54-55mph 2-3 times only for 10 seconds a the most during those 28hrs..
Great video! Quick question, the “xps lube” you spray during the spark plug change…can I use the Xps anti corrosive spray for that or is it the “Xps storage oil?” I’m finding people use both wondering if it matters?
The anti-corrosive sprays tend to be a little thicker, and the strategy here is to use a very light oil to effectively coat the cylinders and piston heads. Fogging oil tends to be very light, so I would stick with that. Good luck.
I'm new at this and i feel like a pro after this great video. thanks!
your delusional, reality check comin when your ski fails and you dont know why. hehehe
Wow you personally feel like a pro just. By watching this? I have never been offended before but I dont like it at all
Very nice video, what did you use to clean the inside of the hull?
I used a product called "Grez-Off" (see www.canadiantire.ca/en/sports-rec/marine/boat-care/grez-off-heavy-duty-degreaser-0790133p.html?SearchVoice&AskAndAnswer&Default). I can't say it is the best product available, but it did an okay job. Thanks for your comment.
Hey thank you for the video it is really helpful ! One question tought, you don’t put any antifreezer anywhere ?
If you’re storing your machine outside or somewhere where the temperature drops below freezing, we will run some antifreeze through the exhaust. We have an older video on that procedure, if you’re interested.
Great video Question I have an 2006 4 Tec. I have been told I'll have issues every year because we only put 10-12 hours on it. Is that true? Also, to winterize (we get very little below zero but may go weeks below freezing) is it enough to run out water and fog injectors?
As long as you take good care of your machine, you shouldn't have a problem. What I mean by take care of it is ensure you NEVER leave salt water residue on your machine for any length of time. Also, ensure your pump is not leaking, you put fuel stabilizer in when storing, etc. (essentially do everything we show in our video). If you have a machine with an intercooler you need to make sure you've blown out all water before it freezes, if it doesn't have one it's not as critical but still advised. You should always do the fogging procedure, as this will minimize damage to the engine when starting up after winter storage. Good luck!
Thanks Perfect. No salt water to worry about where I'm at
Sorry, stupid question. How do I tell if I have an intercooler? I have looked at the manual but it doesn't mention one. I'm not totally sure the model other than the 4tec. The 2006 4tec manual covers a variety of models. Is there a site I can load the vin and see what it tells me?
It’s indicated by the Horse Power of your machine. Anything 185 HP and higher has a supercharger. All models with 215 HP and higher have a supercharger and intercooler.
Got it, thanks very much
I have been researching about how much oil is actually removed & replaced. On the "how to" section of Greeenhulk forum, there is a detailed write up which mirrors this video (oil change part). One poster within the thread stated that although the 4-tec holds 4.5 QTs, that only ~ 3 QTs can be removed & replaced? Some claim 3.5 QTs. That sound right? If so, how is it that all the oil couldn't be removed?
That's right. I usually get about 3.5 QTs out. You can never get it all out, because all of the oil can't drain to where the end of the suction tube is. There's a great CG video showing the oil circulation in the Rotax 1503 engine to give you a better idea. I don't know where the original video came from, but it can be viewed here: ua-cam.com/video/C7zDoIy_QqQ/v-deo.html
Have you guys ever use a automotive suction tool that puts a vacuum in the cooling system. It removes all the air out then sucks in the coolant. I don’t know if I can use it on my 300 rxpx when I go to replace the coolant. Don’t want to damage any thing
no. We’ve never felt we needed to. The old fashion way seems to work just fine.
Fair enough it’s just a way of not having to run, you know that carbon seal doesn’t like to run dry. Do you think it’s safe to use on a sea doo. I use it on a regular bases in the automotive world that I work in. Thanks again you guys are awesome as usual
I don’t see why you couldn’t use that system. I think the worst case scenario is that it wouldn’t do an effective job of draining the coolant. You should always bring extra (pre-mixed) coolant with you on your first ride after a flush anyway, so you can top it up in case it burps up some air during the ride. Good luck and thanks for the kind words.
You used xps spray in the cylinders instead of fogging spray. Is that the recommended method?
Yes, we followed their recommended method.
Hello thank you so
Much for the video it has helped me a ton! However I forgot how to put the ski into drone mode this year? 🤦🏻♂️
Into "drown" mode? You hold down the throttle all the way while starting.
Excellent video. At 6:50 while clearing the exhaust at 55psi, are you concerned at all with backfill into the engine?
No. As long as it’s running. That pressure is straight out of the service manual.
Thanks for reply, you should clarify the ski needs to be running while clearing exhaust. I missed that part and blew it out with the ski off. Concerned 😔
My apologies, I wasn't paying enough attention to your question and the section of the video (I was out and replying from my iPhone). For the air purge, you don't need to have the engine running. If you're ever worried you have water in the engine, however, check the oil for any "milkshake" appearance. If the oil looks that way, run it for a minute or so, change the oil, and repeat until it's gone. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel thank you for the clarification! I did cross reference the owners manual, and yes 55 psi is correct! Also, no mention there to have engine running either. Mint! Thanks for future steps, if needed... Have a great day! Josh
Just got another jet ski. It has the oil under the engine in the hull, and also when I checked the oil level in the engine, it was overfilled. Engine runs ok. Is there any valve that lets extra oil go out, or something popped?
Thank you.
I suggest cleaning all the engine out of the hull very thoroughly and then a short ride it after you removed the extra oil from inside the engine too, and then see if you can find where it’s coming from. It could be that it just spilled during the last time it was filled (or overfilled). Let us know. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel Definitely will.
Thank you!
Hi. after changing the oil, youre running your machine 30 secs without water on the hose?
Yes, you can run it for very short periods without the hose.
Great, Thank you!
When using compressed air to remove the water from the exhaust muffler, was that also removing the water from the supper charger air cooler?
No water is supposed to enter the supercharger. It's not effective in purging water through an external intercooler; this needs to be done using another procedure.
Also, where did you get the maintenance book from you are using and do you order your seals from Amazon or does Sea Doo provide an O-ring kit you can buy? I was hoping that they would at least give you a standardized tool kit with the ski but no luck there.
You may be able to get one through your dealer, but they can be a bit pricey. They're also available online through various sources, including Amazon.com. I've pieced mine together through a variety of sources.
Love your channel. My seadoo 4-tech does not have a port to purge the exhaust. What should I do?
What model and year do you have?