2003 Honda CR-V surging idle!
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- 2003 Honda crv surging P0505 idle air control , this car had a bad surging issue, it would also lung forward because of all the extra air being sucked into the engine,P1505 PVC air leak overheating vacuum leak , these are all the problems I had with on this video & i show how to fix it
#honda #howto #autorepair
You can clean the passages on the IAC with carbon cleaner.
If there is irregular idle such as fluctuations or slow reduction, it can be caused by a sticking valve. For this, you can take the IAC apart and clean thoroughly clean the internals and then lubricate. For example, I had an Accord with rev hang when the engine was cold and it was because the valve was sticking during rotation. A simple cleaning and the vehicle idled perfectly.
Sometimes it works but not all the time.
You can ues brake parts clean and the iac valve will be good as new, too.
There is an air bleeder valve on the top of thermostat housing on most Hondas. Warm it up to build pressure then just crack enough to see it bubble air and coolant. When it flows without air shut it off and spray off with water or brake clean. Sometimes do as a maintenance, as air can collect there over time.
I just installed a brand new IAC valve but not my idle rev is ~1400 and then it tends to fluctuate (revs up and down) while idling.
Any idea what’s causing this? I did let it rev at 3000 rpms and let it get to 196 degrees and then I let idle for 5 minutes. Any help.
Make sure you don’t have any vacuum leaks, that can cause this issue also,you can buy a cheap smoke machine from Amazon & check for leaks that way
Can a leaking radiator cause this as well? I have fans connected directly (Common thing here) but the thermostat is still intact
TPS Sensor need adjust or ur tps getting bad
I have a different problem on mine, the idle goes very high (2-3k) under some conditions, usually re-starting a partly-cooled engine or when steering down my driveway in neutral (it's a manual). Looks like this is the area to check for problems. Thanks for the video.
Why didn't show the actual part... that you replaced... Whats the actual part model if you don't mind sharing that and name boss... appreciate it
Sorry can I share this vedio sir
When you’re doing the finger method, sorry I’m dumb, what air is going through? Are you like running compressor air through it some how? Or is like the car just to the on position? I’m just wondering where your airs coming from I need it spelled out , great vid btw I’m working on my 05
I’m blocking off the idle air hole, when I put my finger on the hole and the idle changed this proves that excessive air is passing through the idle air control (some air is is supposed to pass through this port for idle control but not excessive air). The surging is caused by the computer trying to bring down the idle through the throttle plate , basically it’s trying to compensate for the excessive air passing through the idle air port therefore proving the idle air control valve is faulty
There is an air bleeder valve on the top of thermostat housing on most Hondas. Warm it up to build pressure then just crack enough to see it bubble air and coolant. When it flows without air shut it off and spray off with water or brake clean. Sometimes do as a maintenance, as air can collect there over time.
hey just giving you my problems so at a stop the car wants to almost stall but doesn't and no change in the rpm at idle to make a big difference gas consumption has increased so tomorrow morning going to pull the iac and clean the throttle and replace the iac and see if this fixes it I will let you know the results
@@cthecoalman scan it for codes then google the codes
This will give you more of an idea what’s going on
@@jonwillfixit no codes unfortunately and I forgot to mention that
@@jonwillfixit at least with the code you have somewhere to start
@@jonwillfixit Hey buddy so changed the IAC and the TPS and the PCV and it still runs rough at idle I am sensing to the shop because it is till running rough { still no codes air coming up from oil dip stick tube so guessing rings } but when it is out on the road it runs great. Now the debate do I get it up and running and wait for the next expense or buy another car that I don't know the history on or keep this toaster that has 215000 miles on her { my mom bought this car brand new and I got it after she passed in 2006 with 12000 miles on it } . Thank for the video it was very helpful made it easier to accomplish.
Thanx for this video! May you and your family believe in Jesus Christ and be saved!!
When you take it for the test drive, I suggest putting a little gasoline in the tank. You can always charge the customer, and it beats having an empty car clogging a bay!
Funny I happen to read this comment. I just ran my '04 CR-V out of gas yesterday because it seemed to have a bottomless tank and I wanted to see just how bottomless. 131.4 miles after the fuel light came on, car died. Light not even on yet on this one. Still, that is ridiculous to have the fuel light come on with ~4gal still in the tank.
So if it stalls then the iacv is good when doing the finger method And if doesnt stall and idles correctly the iacv is bad ?
I think the idea is that messing with the IAC made the idle better, not worse, so whatever the IAC was doing was not what it was supposed to do. I tend to overthink these things as well, but it was the right call.
I really like how you took ownership to a problem you cld if possibly caused and didn’t try n tell customer there was something additional they had to pay for. #honestMechanic
** I might add why didn’t you just clean the IAC instead of replacing it?
Sometimes cleankng does bot work. I cleaned mine yesterday and still the same. Actually my idle is boubcing, not surging lol
Thank you 💓