I had to cut some aluminum backed with foam today and this video made it so easy to understand how to work the bypass in order to cut the board. I read the instructions in the Saw Stop book but your video made it all perfectly clear. Thank you so much.
After some further research on this suggestion (AKA asking someone at SawStop about this I received the following information) "In order to ensure the avoidance of unsafe blade startup, the at-stop sensitivity of the blade contact detection is greatly enhanced over baseline. Simply put, it’s way more sensitive when stopped. So, you’ll get a red light on materials that would not set off the system (a false positive)." Good to know!!!
Thanks, Just got three phase connected into my shop, and wanted to test this without the break first just incase. also did not feel like digging through the manual just to find this. :)
Had to cut some samples with foil on them. It was so nice to actually see the act of de-activating the brake, so that I didn't have that nagging suspicion that I was going to trip the brake when I cut the first panel.
Regarding testing for conductivity, I always test the blades, especially the coated ones (e.g., CMT dado stack). With power to the saw, but nothing running I simply touch the blade. The red LED comes up if there is conductivity. You could possibly do the same with suspect materials.
Thank you very much you answered my questions, great update! Please do one on when it has been set off and you haft to realign blade as I have done this and it is a bit to do! had to call tech support for help!!! :-) I was trimming off a jig with a tape measure on it and it went off WoW I thought I had cut a finger but it was the metal in the tape, Had to check my pants :-)
im hoping someone can help me,,i activated the brake on my contractor saw stop yesterday and today i put the new brake cartridge on and set it up exactly the way saw stop tell you too using the yellow guage and when you go to start it,,it kicks off,,then the green light starts blinking,,and i have trying to get it closer than the guage says but im at my limit according to what the book says,,,but it still kicks off,,can anyone possible help me
Reboot the system. Unplug the saw from the power source for about ten minutes. While the power is unpluged, turn the power switch and start switch on to drain any voltage that might be stored in the system electronics. Turn both switches back off again. Plug the cord in again and start up as usual.
If you mean the brake cartridge. Yes it is. This is to show you how to bypass that. So if you say cutting wet lumber putting it in the bypass mode keeps the wet material from triggering the brake cartridge. But be careful of fingers because your vulnerable while doing this.
I have to tell you, I bought the 3 hp 52” package. This saw has been a complete waste of money. It’s constantly and randomly blowing cartridges. I adjusted the blade angle, the whole assembly fell to the bottom of the cabinet. I called customer service about a refund or them buying it back. They said they don’t give any type of refund on their saws. Red Flag! If a company can’t stand behind their product with a refund policy, that should be your first clue. Anyway they sent me a part when the whole blade assembly fell out of the saw. I’m assuming so I can fix it. Red Flag 2. If a company wants to sell you an almost 4,000 dollar saw, and doesn’t have the manpower to service it.WOW! I mean they didn’t even offer to fix it. I have to tell you, I’ve had several cabinet table saws, and haven’t had any problems remotely close to what I’ve had with this junk. Think before you buy, because apparently if you buy it. There is no way your getting your money back. Pathetic.
I had to cut some aluminum backed with foam today and this video made it so easy to understand how to work the bypass in order to cut the board. I read the instructions in the Saw Stop book but your video made it all perfectly clear. Thank you so much.
Jump to 2:27 for the actual information
Or just watch the video!
I have to try this! What a simple and easy way to test for conductivity of materials. Thanks for the suggestion.
Thank you brother
Thanks Matt, great info! I was going to get around to reading that part in the manual....some day. Regards, Peter
After some further research on this suggestion (AKA asking someone at SawStop about this I received the following information)
"In order to ensure the avoidance of unsafe blade startup, the at-stop sensitivity of the blade contact detection is greatly enhanced over baseline. Simply put, it’s way more sensitive when stopped. So, you’ll get a red light on materials that would not set off the system (a false positive)."
Good to know!!!
Thanks, Just got three phase connected into my shop, and wanted to test this without the break first just incase. also did not feel like digging through the manual just to find this. :)
Had to cut some samples with foil on them. It was so nice to actually see the act of de-activating the brake, so that I didn't have that nagging suspicion that I was going to trip the brake when I cut the first panel.
Regarding testing for conductivity, I always test the blades, especially the coated ones (e.g., CMT dado stack). With power to the saw, but nothing running I simply touch the blade. The red LED comes up if there is conductivity. You could possibly do the same with suspect materials.
Thank you very much you answered my questions, great update! Please do one on when it has been set off and you haft to realign blade as I have done this and it is a bit to do! had to call tech support for help!!! :-) I was trimming off a jig with a tape measure on it and it went off WoW I thought I had cut a finger but it was the metal in the tape, Had to check my pants :-)
I would too LOL!!! Glad to hear it was the tape measure.
Very helpful TNX
Glad to help!
That's a beautiful fn sound!!!
Thank you for this! Your explanations very clear. I will have to try this test .
2:14
im hoping someone can help me,,i activated the brake on my contractor saw stop yesterday and today i put the new brake cartridge on and set it up exactly the way saw stop tell you too using the yellow guage and when you go to start it,,it kicks off,,then the green light starts blinking,,and i have trying to get it closer than the guage says but im at my limit according to what the book says,,,but it still kicks off,,can anyone possible help me
Reboot the system. Unplug the saw from the power source for about ten minutes. While the power is unpluged, turn the power switch and start switch on to drain any voltage that might be stored in the system electronics. Turn both switches back off again. Plug the cord in again and start up as usual.
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Then don't watch the videos...
"Morse" code, not Morris.
1st comment, 1st thumbs up, 1st view. Nice. Great video
I thought the lock was to keep people from using it. Guess I'll just unplug the motor from the saw when I'm not around.
You can pull the yellow tab on the power switch and store it somewhere else when not in use
This video said nothing about whether a brake was installed or not
If you mean the brake cartridge. Yes it is. This is to show you how to bypass that. So if you say cutting wet lumber putting it in the bypass mode keeps the wet material from triggering the brake cartridge. But be careful of fingers because your vulnerable while doing this.
@@billybleedscrimsonblood9478 TY
Good God man, enough with the blathering on. Get to the point.
I have to tell you, I bought the 3 hp 52” package. This saw has been a complete waste of money. It’s constantly and randomly blowing cartridges. I adjusted the blade angle, the whole assembly fell to the bottom of the cabinet. I called customer service about a refund or them buying it back. They said they don’t give any type of refund on their saws. Red Flag! If a company can’t stand behind their product with a refund policy, that should be your first clue. Anyway they sent me a part when the whole blade assembly fell out of the saw. I’m assuming so I can fix it. Red Flag 2. If a company wants to sell you an almost 4,000 dollar saw, and doesn’t have the manpower to service it.WOW! I mean they didn’t even offer to fix it. I have to tell you, I’ve had several cabinet table saws, and haven’t had any problems remotely close to what I’ve had with this junk. Think before you buy, because apparently if you buy it. There is no way your getting your money back. Pathetic.