When I was 18 and working on a farm I was taught to paint the base of the post in a mix of diesel and old engine oil. The posts were stood in a bucket of this 30/70 mix for a day or so and the bases liberally coated up to a couple of inches or so above ground level. They were then concreted into the hole, first placing a dollop of concrete into the base of the hole. I've been doing this now for over 35 years and the posts don't rot, plus if you decommission the fence the concrete hasn't stuck to the wood so can be removed with a bolster and lump hammer (and the wood re-used). I use the same mix to paint wooden shuttering before pouring concrete or doing cement work, and the wooden forms then peel away cleanly leaving an almost polished surface.
Most excellent work. A few observations. I have run a fencing company for 25 years and guess I have erected thousands of fences, and repaired hundreds. Proud to say that I have not heard of one failure to date. I use quality pressure-treated timber. So, regarding the post sleeve; I do not see the need for their use. The weakest part of the post, and by extension the fence, is where it meets the ground, and invariably this is where the post will rot and snap in a storm. Fill the post hole with concrete mix and raise the concrete proud of the ground level like a small collar and rain water will run down the post onto the little dome of concrete and off on to the ground. Therefore, it wont settle around the post and eventually rot it, which, to my experience, is the cause of 90% fence/post failures. Should save you around £5 per post, and a lot of time. "Good fences make good neighbours". Take care.
Fantastic advice Mike. Wish I had thought of that, and probably in hindsight I should have had the arris rails on the inside as a lot of people have pointed out, just to conform to the norm.
@@tabcobra I was thinking of the regular fires you get in California etc that wipe out towns leaving just ash, stone chimney stacks and burnt out car shells that we see on the news here in Europe.
@@CharlieDIYte personally I think you've made a good job of the fence, obviously we all do things a little differently I always use the concrete posts and gravel boards but the corner posts are a cripple'r. Only thing I would recommend is buy yourself a long graft and a long bar most fencing suppliers stock them I bought mine from crowthorne years ago best money I have ever spent oh and a good shovholer,the long graft takes away the jarring on yr shoulders and elbows save you a shed load of time as well.🤙
Awesome video. Just recently built my own fence. Approx 60ft and 6ft high. I didnt use feathered boards, but instead recycled regular boards that were full of nails which I spent about a week solid pulling out. I then left about a 5mm gap between each one. When I was putting in my posts I jammed bits of rubble in the hole so I didn't have to use as much postcrete. It seemed to take me soooo long to do it on my own. To prep all the boards, put 10 posts in, build the fence and then paint both sides took pretty much 3 or 4 weeks worth of solid work, doing a couple of hours after work every day and working every weekend.
I like your videos, you get straight to the point with a good amount of information and plenty of video, I think a lot of UA-cam's get this wrong, I always doubt myself when starting a job I've never done before, the jobs might have imperfections but nothing on this planet beats the feeling when you look at your own work and say I built that.
Completely agree. You feel epic, don't you, and every time you see the job, that epic feeling comes back. That's the power of learning DIY! Thanks for the comment. I'm trying to cut out as much waffle as possible!
You hit the nail on the head at 23 mins in Charlie; do your research, get the right tools, take your time and don't try and rush towards the finish. I've been working professionally doing DIY type work of all different kinds for a little while now, and every day, no matter what I'm working on, is a reminder that even though that advice is common sense it really is so important and makes all the difference to the quality of the result. This is another cracking demonstration mate. You know, you really could be a a pro at whatever trade you fancied. The only thing that matters ultimately though is that you're happy doing what you're doing. And in your manner and attitude you certainly come across like you are. And also very talented.
I've finished my fence job and found the info and guide lines that you provided in this video absolutely invaluable. One thing that I learnt whilst doing the job was that it was very helpful to mark the centre line on the posts where the rail notches are. This was helpful for accurate positioning of the posts by offering up a rail to get spacing spot on, prior to pouring in the post crete. My new posh fence is showing up the rest of the garden now. Thanks Charlie.
A great video, Charlie, I enjoyed it. I used to work for a fencing supplier and we had a tanalising plant. People are often surprised to learn that the chemicals rarely sink in deeper than 6mm around the circumference of the timber. Many people expect it to fill the core (and double the weight!) but it does enough to add protection. Moisture content can be an issue (if it's too high, the timber won't accept the treatment - although any good supplier should account for this) and the heartwood, as opposed to the softwood, is less penetrable. Renting and hiring tools is a great option that some of us rarely consider. A good alternative to the 'I can't afford one of those' excuse. ;-) All the best. Looking forward to your next project and video.
Great job Charlie!! - I'm was considering getting a builder in to put up a new fence in my garden but your vid has given me the confidence to crack on myself. Great content, highly informative and well presented, always a pleasure to watch your vids. Do keep up the good work!
Ditto... the rails are cut diagonally and are pointed. That's blowing my mind, especially since (here in the US at least) you put fences up with the flat "face" side out, facing the neighbors, and you get stuck looking at the backside.... but here... the backside is glorious and far better looking.
Just want to give you a massive thanks! This was by FAR the most useful video I had found while designing & building my fence. My garden borders alongside our carparking area, so it turns out there is about 1ft of concrete produding into our garden about 8" down. After spending days on end of chiseling concrete out to remove the old posts and creating space for the new posts, I decided no human should have to go through that again, and switched to post supports which I bolted onto concrete slabs I had poured about 60-70cm deep, using non expanding anchor bolts. Finished the job yesterday, including gate and can't believe I've done it myself. This video was invaluable and again, I just want to thank you for making it.
Mate, what an awesome job. Massive congrats. I bet you feel pretty epic having achieved that!! Did you build the gate too? So glad you found my vid useful and thanks so much for the comment 🙏👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte I feel fantastic mate! I built the gate from scratch too. From the outside it looks exactly like the rest of the fence, but with a handle and keyway. Still looking outside and not quite believing I did it all myself. I'm making some planters for the girlfriend from some of the spare wood; and then it's time to tackle the doors which drag against the carpet.
Totally agree buying local, you’re able to see what you’re buying and any deliveries mistakes can easily be sorted. But more than that you are helping a local business.
Hi Charlie, you don`t know how pleased I am that I found your video on you tube. I love the style of fencing you chose for your property.I live in Queensland Australia and will be replacing a side fence shortly when winter arrives. You showed me things that I had never thought of going wrong, but more importantly you also showed how you solved your problems. Well done, and all the best for your projects in the future. Thanks mate.
Hi Peter, I really appreciate that, my friend. Good luck with the fence project when the time comes. Humbled that this vid reached as far as Queensland!
Hi Charlie, I found this video very detailed and comprehensive that its given me the confidence to take on replacing my fence, which I may add have never dreamed of doing. The total run is 30 meters and will keep you posted on progress. Thanks again for a great video and keep them coming!
As always, very impressed with the results you achieve given your lack of experience in the challenges you take on. I helped a mate do fencing (first fence project for both of us, he's much more naturally practical than me) but we opted for concrete posts and slot in panels as the posts will last forever and the panels can just be easily replaced when rotted. Perhaps not as aesthetically pleasing as all-timber and Arris rails fence though. I agree that a 'prodding stick' helps with dry concrete bits and probably best to add bit of ready mix concrete and water at a time We also used available bits of rocks and large stones to help position the posts and posts were very firm when concrete dried. One other tip I've read for wooden posts is to make a mound shape with the concrete so that water runs off but not an issue with your belts n braces approach with bitumen paint and fence covers. As you say, the beauty of doing things yourself is that you can do all things a professional contractor would never do in my experience (e.g.treating all cut ends, etc.).
Another great vid Charlie. I have always saved the old motor oil from oil changes and soaked posts in a 25 litre square plastic container for a couple of days prior to fencing. We keep x3 horses so it's an ongoing job here. Keep up the good work.
Nice fence. I like that you have gone to the extra trouble to protect the posts, I wish I could get customers to pay the extra for it. It is hard enough to get them to pay for capping. All they seem to want is the cheapest options. I noticed a comment saying the rails should be on the inside but most people want the nice side of the fence facing them as they paid for it, it also means that all the work is done from your own garden rather than the nieghbours which is a lot easier when you are a contractor.
Being from a busy city life in San Francisco USA, I would love to sit outside in your backyard and enjoy all the beautiful country side your place has to offer with out a fence.Great fence building though.Love your video.
Aw, thanks, Matt. I think I'd prefer to be in your great city (which I was lucky to visit once) rather than in our rather noisy village which has had so many houses built in the last few years it's not particularly quaint and has also now lost its pub!
i did some fencing in my garden for the first time it turned out well :-) I have the modern version of the second whole digging tool you used, it sure is worth the money. The trick with doing the holes is not to make them to wide then you use less post create and less chance of it ever moving in strong winds because the tightly compacted soil around the hole is very firm.
Well done Charlie. Nice result. This is not advice, but just the way I do it. The post hole digger works best if you ram it down the trench several times, (rapidly) to cut into the sides - maybe you did that off camera? I also mix the dry mix in a big tub (contrary to instructions) and pour in. That way I know it’s all mixed in with the correct ratios, without concern about dry (unmixed) pockets.
You should be really proud of that fence.....top job, better than any "professional " would ever do! Your videos are so well put together and the detail is brilliant for us diyers! Thanks very much
Aw, cheers mate! A little part of me thinks I should have given the field the nice side but otherwise I'm pretty chuffed! Can't thank you enough for commenting 👍
Came across this from searching for tips how to replace my broken fences. well detailed with good tips and explained clearly along the way. Unlike a lot of others who post their clips on how to and can't clearly explain in basic spoken English. Great job!
I watched this a while ago but I'm putting up a 30ft run of similar fencing today and your video was my 'go to' to watch again to give me a boost of confidence to do it on my own. Just waiting for the timber to arrive 🙂🙂🙂 Thanks for sharing
Hi Maria - that's great to hear - thanks for letting me know. Good luck with the project. One thing, think which way round you want the rails (on the inside or outside of your garden). I'm happy with them the way I did it but some people have commented that it would have been more secure if the tidy side had faced outwards. Good luck and let me know how you get on!
@@CharlieDIYte thanks for taking the time to reply, much appreciated. I remember reading about the featherboards being on your side of the fence in the comments. It does seem a shame to do all that hard work and then not see the nice side especially after doing such a professional job 🙂
Just to let you know, you might want to update your amazon associate links - i wanted to buy the bostik paint but it's no longer available, and I don't think you'll get commission if I buy from another seller on amazon. Also, thanks so much for taking the time to make this video - I'm buying all the parts for my fence today and doing it the right way so it lasts.
You can often negotiate a better price with a local fence supplier than their published prices if you are buying a reasonable quantity and they may take back any surplus. And their advice can be invaluable.
@@CharlieDIYte I thought you were going to suggest something about wood acclimatisation to the local climate. Some of the north American carpenters make a big issue of this. I suppose it isn't such a great deal on this side of the pond.
I used to be a proffesional gardener and i placed a lot of fences like these. For your first time you did realy great my friend and the result is awsome! greetigs Christofix
Great job! My father always put bitumen paint on the lower parts of his fence posts back in the 1960's to protect against rot and it did a great job! Pressure treated wood is unfortunately not a guarantee against rot.
Great work, I did a post and rail fence a few years ago, for my posts I first set 65mm galvanised round poles in the ground, then made up box section posts with pressure treated timber hollow in the middle slightly larger than the OD of the poles and then dropped them in over the poles keeping them about 25mm off the ground, it worked great no timber in the ground whatsoever.
Thanks Richard. Only thing I'd change is perhaps facing the arris rails into the garden, as it does look a bit odd from the road. It's weathering brilliantly though.
Well Charlie - I am impressed well done. I did a similar close boarded fence 30 years ago and the only power tool I had was a corded hammer drill. The land here is clay and flint and each fence hole (24 posts) was an odyssey. I used traditional arris rail but cut all the mortices in the posts by hand and whittled the arris rail ends to suit. It took me 2 weeks full time to erect the posts and arris rails and about another six weeks of weekends only to finish the close boarding. As I was finishing an old boy who had often walked by said to to me 'beautiful job you should do that for a living' I replied Yeah my family would starve! I vowed never to touch a fencing job again - and I have not.I still drive by my old property and that behemoth of a fence is still standing! I do like the easy arris rail solution you had it it must really weaken the post, especially as the point of the eve is a stress raiser.
Around our way we out post in 1.8 meters apart and stager the rails to give as much strength as possible. Top tip put in the posts at each end first and the run string lines between the top and bottom of the post so u can plumb the rest of the posts a lot easier
Hay 👋🏽 thanks for uploading and blessing us with your knowledge, this video has been a huge help and thanks for the in depth explanations and great job on your fence ⭐️
Brililant job! You're the only one I've found fixing the cap board! Simple, I know, but I've never tried it so got the confidence now to go get some and attach to my fencing, many tks!
Brilliant video loved every minute. Makes a change from having to watch American diy videos you have made me think that I could do my own fence as I paid £2.500 two years ago and it is already falling apart. Keep up the good work you should be very proud.
Hi Charlie, I just stumbled across this video and I must say, you've impressed the hell out of me as you did it yourself! This video has massively inspired me to do the same when I come to do my garden fence. Many thanks and keep up the great videos :)
Thanks mate, I really appreciate that. Probably should have faced the arris rails into the garden as it would have looked better from the road but it's still looking like new a year on. Good luck with your project 👍🏻
Hi Charlie considering you are a diyer you've done a great job .... Just to add that , as I understand it , the nicer face side should always face towards your neighbours if the fence is your responsibility... As you have done all of it the neater face should have been on the other side. Just in case anyone is reading this you should check carefully who is responsible for the fence.... Hate to spend all that money and find it is the wrong way round. The other thing you can do to prolong the life of the posts is to mound the concrete around the base of the post to form a natural roll off for rain...that also helps with longevity...although the system you used should negate the need to do this step. Great video and super helpful.
Charlie, can't fault the end look but a couple of tips. When I do fencing I use I use a post digging spade, long narrow blade and it has them dug out in no time. I also use a plastic towel scoop or my hand with a thick glove for pulling out the earth and drop deposits on to a plastic sheet so it can be taken away. It does require getting down on your hands and knees though. Also with the post mix, I put post in the hole then pour half the mix in. Add water so it covers the mix, tamp down a little but not too much, add the rest of the mix, add water as before. The issue of adding the water first is it can drain away at different rate depending on ground conditions. I do a lot of aris rail fences and they are definitely my fence of choice. Love your videos in general though!
Thanks Russell, great tips and thanks for not reminding me as thousands of others have, that I put it the wrong way round - which I did for good reasons at the time but in hindsight should have bowed to conventional wisdom. 👍
Great job, again. I quite agree do it better than a tradesman. Sounded like it cut the traffic noise down as well. I agree that not breaking the story up was a good idea. Please keep them coming.
Very informative. I like the jig for getting the correct overlap, made a similar tool and drilled holes in the jig so that each panels holes were the same I then used stainless steel screws to hold the panel. A bit long winded, but being retired and time not important, I thought that this would make maintenance easier in the future.
Great job Charlie. Those post savers are a fantastic idea always use them now for fence posts. Small note; when trowelling up the finished surface of the concrete hole have a slight peak towards the post so the water runs down away from the post. Obviously with the post savers not too much of an issue but worth doing nonetheless. Also how about a meet up with "the restoration couple" I think you two would really hit it off! I think he's Bristol way.
You did very well for a first time there are many ways of speeding your job up but I have had 30 years at it and I could talk all night you score 4 out of 5 well done
Great video! Very informative and a breeze to watch - 20 mins flew by. Love the professional approach and your research shows in the end result - fantastic job! Will definitely check out more of your videos. 👍🏻
Amazing job. Always watch your videos and take your advice as I consider it the best. You ought to do a video on your background. What you have done for work and your early projects. Your biggest mishaps and how you got more involved in what you do and what inspired you. Would be really interesting.
Great video i wish I could see more on how you build that beautiful fence never seen one like that before I love it , and been looking to build one soon
Absolutely brilliant video, best I have seen on fencing by far. I have 65 metres to do on my house (in east England) and would love to do it like this but fear I may have to take out a second mortgage, I dread to think how much all that god quality wood will cost.
+Alexander Materials will cost about £2800 and labour around £2200 with good access. Just an estimate as to what was charged for a similar length Close board fence in Kent recently.
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. You can help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb or by becoming a Member to unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.
I've been asked to repair many fences like this over the years and while some are rotted off at the bottom, lots break at the bottom V notch. The cut in the post greatly reduces the strength of the post and with tall fences there is allot of leverage in the wind. Most older fences of this design end up having retro fitted concrete godfather supports fitted after the post fails. Some would argue for longevity to just fit concrete posts in the first place. You still did a good job and better than many contractors I've seen.
Thanks. The thing about these posts is that they're substantial and the v notch goes less than half way through which as a general rule of thumb in the woodworking industry preserves the strength/integrity of the post but I hear what you say and was a bit reluctant to incorporate that third notch on the longer posts.
@@CharlieDIYte There is still allot of satisfaction in doing the job yourself and having a UA-cam channel myself I know putting yourself out there will always attract critics. Keep up the good work. Cheers.
@@Banditmanuk Just been enjoying one of your videos. Nice channel! - Scared of the power of that Yamaha and I'm just sat on the sofa. I'd better stick to my Vito van 🤣
You have a talent to show how easy such projects can be, rather than intimidating. I applaud you for that. Shouldn't you have left open drainage holes at the bottom gravel boards, where the fence turns left? As far as I can gather, the ground slopes downwards in that direction; while it seems from the footage that the rain collection area is small, a heavy pour could leave you with a pond at the corner. Thanks!
I always admire your expertise & enthusiasm plus you put each task over exceptionally well !,keep up your good work , an old er experianst DIY disciple CD Thanks Again.
It looks like quite a few gave arrived here because of the recent storms, including me. The offcut of gravel board on the post is a great idea. Very helpful.
Thanks. I've built a few of these since and this one is still looking as good as when I did it. Don't bother with those post savers though. Just get a tin of Bostik bituminous paint. 👌
Well done! Great video full of useful tips. I like your positive attitude. I have three fence panels flapping about in the wind today. This has motivated me to use you system. Looks more solid structure than panels slotted into concrete posts.
A very helpful video. Mainly because you found the problems and talk about how to avoid them. I have seen this type of fencing last for decades. Whereas cheap slatted fence panels can die in 4-5 years. So, you made the right choice, for an exposed boundary like that. Lots of useful tips and ideas. Thanks. I have seen post slieving in use before; and wondered how effective it would be. Possibly a better heat-gun would be a pallet shrink-wrap heat gun. Or a roofing torch down lance. Both are MUCH more powerful. Perhaps the latter can be hired.
Thanks for that 👍 Yes that blow torch was too concentrated/ not powerful enough really. However when I do the next lot I'll probably just cover the relevant area of the posts in the Bostik bitumastic paint. The fence is still looking good, I've just got to decide whether to apply a wood preserver to it. The tanalising is fine but clearly doesn't keep the wet out as the fence gets drenched in the rain. I don't think the tanalising process is nearly as effective as it used to be since they took the arsenic out - but no bad thing that they did!! In hindsight I should probably have had the arris rails pointing into the garden but other than that, I'm pretty chuffed with it.
Beautiful job. Belt and suspenders with all the bituminous but it makes sense. We have a TV show here in the states where the head landscaper doesn't believe in using concrete with posts because it speeds up their decay. So he compacts 3/4" (19mm) crushed stone in the bottom and around about half the post in the hole and then adds a layer of road base (crushed stone and stone dust) compacted up to grade.
I put up a wood fence around my yard in 1996.i set my 4x4x8 post in the ground using dirt and pea gravel,no cement .the post have not rotted.all I have had to do is replace some of the boards.
Really helpful video....once again. I've just lost 5 fence posts to the recent storms so its very timely. I'd never heard of postsavers before seeing this. Thanks.
Howdee from the other side of the pond. Here in the Ozarks of Arkansas where theres more rocks than dirt, what I've done many time when setting wood post is get a piece of #3 or #4 ( 3/8" _1/2") rebar about 8" - 10" long sharpened one end drive it into the bottom of the post, leaving about 3 to 4 inches sticking out to act as a stand off the dirt so that the concrete mix will get under it as well. Also another trick is to use an old piece of 1/2" or 3/4" pipe about 2 feet long to act as a mixer/ plunger, jabbing it up and down in the concrete. Oh and yeah very nicely done fence.
Hi William. So sorry my friend, I missed your comment. Wow, Arkansas, that's truly humbling you watched my video all the way back home! Great tips that I'll bare in mind for my next project! Thanks again for the comment!
Nice video iv jus paused it at 15 minutes to comment on the bitumen paint, your spot on. I made some really nice large 7ft tall gates out of pine an I could of used a varnish to get a posh look but instead I painted the whole gates which are huge in black paint. Hopefully last good 10 years before I replace them
Hi Charlie you have done really well just to say yes little stone in bottom concrete mix in hole first then water and then road pin and make holes in wet mix to let water through to mix first and then like you did small timber and tamp to level what you are doing is getting the air gaps out so the concrete as com packed together and you are right local fencing supplies they would have a corner post so you would have not needed two post . The best tools is a very thine long post spade post hole removal And my best tool is a very long wrecker bar it’s brilliant does not matter what the ground is like . Charle just watching one of your other videos brilliant like it kind regards David
Just about to start on a fence project myself. Really informative and engaging video. Saves me having to do research all over the place, and making a botch job of it, cheers 👍
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment Tom, easy not to bother but most appreciated! If I did this again I'd probably have the arris rails on the inside. That's the only thing I'd change and the fence is still looking great.
Nice to see you getting stuck into some fencing . Our recommendation would be no more than 2.4 post centres and to use a rebated top capping . In addition to using a tin of end seal to protect the cut end of any arris rails or boards you may have such as the sloped corner you amended . We have a very useful sthil auger which in the correct soil will dig a 650mm depth hole in 3-5 seconds 💪😊
A tip that comes from Roman times. If you can figure out which way the timber wicks water, set the post upside down so the end that takes in water is at the top, and the end that ejects water is at the bottom. Plants evolved to wick water one way against gravity so by upending your post, your encouraging water at the bottom of the post out of the timber. An end cap at the top of the post will prevent water seeping in.
Good vid, I was suprised to see the nails not going through both boards, however your logic of being able to remove the board in future makes some sense.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks I follow your vids and used your fence vid as a guide for doing my own fence this week. I drove nails through both boards. Your tips are always helpful. Nail gun is defo the way to go for fencing jobs
Thanks for this video. You have given me the confidence to do my own. I do most stuff myself but for some reason I’ve been putting this off and was getting someone to do it, but as I keep getting let down, it’s time to learn!
I was in a plumbers merchant last summer as a diy"er and twice heard tradesmen asking loudly proudly and clearly ,without shame, when asked which one, the absolute cheapest!. So your better doing the extra work to your satisfaction as some tradesmen won't bother their ass.
That's often heard because the customer wants the cheapest price. Trust me, I and many others deal with this on most jobs. Also at times there is very little difference between a dear item and a cheap one. I was recently shown a packet of Waitrose food that had been labelled in the factory wrong... front label was Waitrose, back label .... Aldi. Same product 3 times dearer for the Waitrose label, exactly the same ingredients.
When I was 18 and working on a farm I was taught to paint the base of the post in a mix of diesel and old engine oil. The posts were stood in a bucket of this 30/70 mix for a day or so and the bases liberally coated up to a couple of inches or so above ground level. They were then concreted into the hole, first placing a dollop of concrete into the base of the hole. I've been doing this now for over 35 years and the posts don't rot, plus if you decommission the fence the concrete hasn't stuck to the wood so can be removed with a bolster and lump hammer (and the wood re-used). I use the same mix to paint wooden shuttering before pouring concrete or doing cement work, and the wooden forms then peel away cleanly leaving an almost polished surface.
Most excellent work. A few observations. I have run a fencing company for 25 years and guess I have erected thousands of fences, and repaired hundreds. Proud to say that I have not heard of one failure to date. I use quality pressure-treated timber. So, regarding the post sleeve; I do not see the need for their use. The weakest part of the post, and by extension the fence, is where it meets the ground, and invariably this is where the post will rot and snap in a storm. Fill the post hole with concrete mix and raise the concrete proud of the ground level like a small collar and rain water will run down the post onto the little dome of concrete and off on to the ground. Therefore, it wont settle around the post and eventually rot it, which, to my experience, is the cause of 90% fence/post failures. Should save you around £5 per post, and a lot of time.
"Good fences make good neighbours". Take care.
Fantastic advice Mike. Wish I had thought of that, and probably in hindsight I should have had the arris rails on the inside as a lot of people have pointed out, just to conform to the norm.
I’ve run a fence company in the stares for 40 years. We stopped using wood posts over a decade ago.
@@tabcobra That's funny because you still build your houses out of wood!
@@johnsomerset1510 Mostly, but all the wood in our homes are protected from the elements by either brick, stone or siding. No wood touches the ground.
@@tabcobra I was thinking of the regular fires you get in California etc that wipe out towns leaving just ash, stone chimney stacks and burnt out car shells that we see on the news here in Europe.
Your channel is seriously underrated. Very informative, no shortcuts, perfect explanations and completely open to nonprofessionals!
Thanks Richard - I really appreciate you taking the time to send me that! The next one's about insulating internal walls, in case you're interested!
@@CharlieDIYte personally I think you've made a good job of the fence, obviously we all do things a little differently I always use the concrete posts and gravel boards but the corner posts are a cripple'r. Only thing I would recommend is buy yourself a long graft and a long bar most fencing suppliers stock them I bought mine from crowthorne years ago best money I have ever spent oh and a good shovholer,the long graft takes away the jarring on yr shoulders and elbows save you a shed load of time as well.🤙
I second that. Very inspiring and full of incredibly useful information and professional tips.
Awesome video. Just recently built my own fence. Approx 60ft and 6ft high. I didnt use feathered boards, but instead recycled regular boards that were full of nails which I spent about a week solid pulling out. I then left about a 5mm gap between each one. When I was putting in my posts I jammed bits of rubble in the hole so I didn't have to use as much postcrete. It seemed to take me soooo long to do it on my own. To prep all the boards, put 10 posts in, build the fence and then paint both sides took pretty much 3 or 4 weeks worth of solid work, doing a couple of hours after work every day and working every weekend.
I like your videos, you get straight to the point with a good amount of information and plenty of video, I think a lot of UA-cam's get this wrong, I always doubt myself when starting a job I've never done before, the jobs might have imperfections but nothing on this planet beats the feeling when you look at your own work and say I built that.
Completely agree. You feel epic, don't you, and every time you see the job, that epic feeling comes back. That's the power of learning DIY! Thanks for the comment. I'm trying to cut out as much waffle as possible!
This is amazing. I've not found anything like this on UA-cam that goes into this much detail, thank you.
Exactly this. It's complete the right details, no fluff and everything that is needed to tackle the task.
You hit the nail on the head at 23 mins in Charlie; do your research, get the right tools, take your time and don't try and rush towards the finish.
I've been working professionally doing DIY type work of all different kinds for a little while now, and every day, no matter what I'm working on, is a reminder that even though that advice is common sense it really is so important and makes all the difference to the quality of the result.
This is another cracking demonstration mate. You know, you really could be a a pro at whatever trade you fancied. The only thing that matters ultimately though is that you're happy doing what you're doing. And in your manner and attitude you certainly come across like you are. And also very talented.
Thanks Martin - means a lot mate, particularly coming from someone who's evidently good at what he does!!
I've finished my fence job and found the info and guide lines that you provided in this video absolutely invaluable.
One thing that I learnt whilst doing the job was that it was very helpful to mark the centre line on the posts where the rail notches are. This was helpful for accurate positioning of the posts by offering up a rail to get spacing spot on, prior to pouring in the post crete.
My new posh fence is showing up the rest of the garden now. Thanks Charlie.
A great video, Charlie, I enjoyed it. I used to work for a fencing supplier and we had a tanalising plant. People are often surprised to learn that the chemicals rarely sink in deeper than 6mm around the circumference of the timber. Many people expect it to fill the core (and double the weight!) but it does enough to add protection. Moisture content can be an issue (if it's too high, the timber won't accept the treatment - although any good supplier should account for this) and the heartwood, as opposed to the softwood, is less penetrable.
Renting and hiring tools is a great option that some of us rarely consider. A good alternative to the 'I can't afford one of those' excuse. ;-)
All the best. Looking forward to your next project and video.
Great job Charlie!! - I'm was considering getting a builder in to put up a new fence in my garden but your vid has given me the confidence to crack on myself. Great content, highly informative and well presented, always a pleasure to watch your vids. Do keep up the good work!
Im watching from the USA. And i have never seen that style of fence before and i love it.Great job.And this is my first seeing your chanel.
This is a very traditional, English fencing style "Feathered Edge" and is seen all over the country, also incredibly easy to assemble and repair.
Thanks Dana! Thanks so much for tuning in 👍 It's interesting how this style of fence seems to be specific to the UK.
@@sgtspite Thanks for that 👍
Ditto... the rails are cut diagonally and are pointed. That's blowing my mind, especially since (here in the US at least) you put fences up with the flat "face" side out, facing the neighbors, and you get stuck looking at the backside.... but here... the backside is glorious and far better looking.
@@56squadron yes I like it a lot also I wish I could see more
Nice job Charlie. Well done! I like that your not afraid to admit a mistake and suggest another way.
Bloke - you did an EXCELLENT job. Love this style - I don't see this in the US much, but love the overlap. Thanks for recording and teaching us!
Wow! Always humbled to hear from you lot across the pond! Massively appreciate that - thanks for the comment!
Just want to give you a massive thanks! This was by FAR the most useful video I had found while designing & building my fence.
My garden borders alongside our carparking area, so it turns out there is about 1ft of concrete produding into our garden about 8" down.
After spending days on end of chiseling concrete out to remove the old posts and creating space for the new posts, I decided no human should have to go through that again, and switched to post supports which I bolted onto concrete slabs I had poured about 60-70cm deep, using non expanding anchor bolts.
Finished the job yesterday, including gate and can't believe I've done it myself. This video was invaluable and again, I just want to thank you for making it.
Mate, what an awesome job. Massive congrats. I bet you feel pretty epic having achieved that!! Did you build the gate too? So glad you found my vid useful and thanks so much for the comment 🙏👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte I feel fantastic mate! I built the gate from scratch too. From the outside it looks exactly like the rest of the fence, but with a handle and keyway. Still looking outside and not quite believing I did it all myself.
I'm making some planters for the girlfriend from some of the spare wood; and then it's time to tackle the doors which drag against the carpet.
Totally agree buying local, you’re able to see what you’re buying and any deliveries mistakes can easily be sorted. But more than that you are helping a local business.
Exactly 👍
Hi Charlie, you don`t know how pleased I am that I found your video on you tube. I love the style of fencing you chose for your property.I live in Queensland Australia and will be replacing a side fence shortly when winter arrives. You showed me things that I had never thought of going wrong, but more importantly you also showed how you solved your problems. Well done, and all the best for your projects in the future. Thanks mate.
Hi Peter, I really appreciate that, my friend. Good luck with the fence project when the time comes. Humbled that this vid reached as far as Queensland!
Hi Charlie, I found this video very detailed and comprehensive that its given me the confidence to take on replacing my fence, which I may add have never dreamed of doing. The total run is 30 meters and will keep you posted on progress. Thanks again for a great video and keep them coming!
As always, very impressed with the results you achieve given your lack of experience in the challenges you take on. I helped a mate do fencing (first fence project for both of us, he's much more naturally practical than me) but we opted for concrete posts and slot in panels as the posts will last forever and the panels can just be easily replaced when rotted. Perhaps not as aesthetically pleasing as all-timber and Arris rails fence though. I agree that a 'prodding stick' helps with dry concrete bits and probably best to add bit of ready mix concrete and water at a time We also used available bits of rocks and large stones to help position the posts and posts were very firm when concrete dried.
One other tip I've read for wooden posts is to make a mound shape with the concrete so that water runs off but not an issue with your belts n braces approach with bitumen paint and fence covers. As you say, the beauty of doing things yourself is that you can do all things a professional contractor would never do in my experience (e.g.treating all cut ends, etc.).
Another great vid Charlie. I have always saved the old motor oil from oil changes and soaked posts in a 25 litre square plastic container for a couple of days prior to fencing. We keep x3 horses so it's an ongoing job here. Keep up the good work.
Never seen a fence built like that before, looks good
Nice fence. I like that you have gone to the extra trouble to protect the posts, I wish I could get customers to pay the extra for it. It is hard enough to get them to pay for capping. All they seem to want is the cheapest options. I noticed a comment saying the rails should be on the inside but most people want the nice side of the fence facing them as they paid for it, it also means that all the work is done from your own garden rather than the nieghbours which is a lot easier when you are a contractor.
Being from a busy city life in San Francisco USA, I would love to sit outside in your backyard and enjoy all the beautiful country side your place has to offer with out a fence.Great fence building though.Love your video.
Aw, thanks, Matt. I think I'd prefer to be in your great city (which I was lucky to visit once) rather than in our rather noisy village which has had so many houses built in the last few years it's not particularly quaint and has also now lost its pub!
i did some fencing in my garden for the first time it turned out well :-) I have the modern version of the second whole digging tool you used, it sure is worth the money. The trick with doing the holes is not to make them to wide then you use less post create and less chance of it ever moving in strong winds because the tightly compacted soil around the hole is very firm.
Well done Charlie. Nice result.
This is not advice, but just the way I do it.
The post hole digger works best if you ram it down the trench several times, (rapidly) to cut into the sides - maybe you did that off camera?
I also mix the dry mix in a big tub (contrary to instructions) and pour in. That way I know it’s all mixed in with the correct ratios, without concern about dry (unmixed) pockets.
good vid, i just started working at a builders yard and the vid has helped me understand a bit about fencing that i can use in my day to day knowledge
You should be really proud of that fence.....top job, better than any "professional " would ever do! Your videos are so well put together and the detail is brilliant for us diyers! Thanks very much
Aw, cheers mate! A little part of me thinks I should have given the field the nice side but otherwise I'm pretty chuffed! Can't thank you enough for commenting 👍
Excellent. Always nice to see someone solving problems on a real job. Lots of tips to help as well.
cheers
Came across this from searching for tips how to replace my broken fences. well detailed with good tips and explained clearly along the way. Unlike a lot of others who post their clips on how to and can't clearly explain in basic spoken English. Great job!
Thanks mate!
I watched this a while ago but I'm putting up a 30ft run of similar fencing today and your video was my 'go to' to watch again to give me a boost of confidence to do it on my own. Just waiting for the timber to arrive 🙂🙂🙂 Thanks for sharing
Hi Maria - that's great to hear - thanks for letting me know. Good luck with the project. One thing, think which way round you want the rails (on the inside or outside of your garden). I'm happy with them the way I did it but some people have commented that it would have been more secure if the tidy side had faced outwards. Good luck and let me know how you get on!
@@CharlieDIYte thanks for taking the time to reply, much appreciated. I remember reading about the featherboards being on your side of the fence in the comments. It does seem a shame to do all that hard work and then not see the nice side especially after doing such a professional job 🙂
Just to let you know, you might want to update your amazon associate links - i wanted to buy the bostik paint but it's no longer available, and I don't think you'll get commission if I buy from another seller on amazon. Also, thanks so much for taking the time to make this video - I'm buying all the parts for my fence today and doing it the right way so it lasts.
You can often negotiate a better price with a local fence supplier than their published prices if you are buying a reasonable quantity and they may take back any surplus. And their advice can be invaluable.
Couldn't agree more!!
@@CharlieDIYte I thought you were going to suggest something about wood acclimatisation to the local climate. Some of the north American carpenters make a big issue of this. I suppose it isn't such a great deal on this side of the pond.
@@uBmaniac What d'you mean by wood acclimatisation?
Charlie DIYte usually means it acclimatise to the humidity levels etc , nice fence though
This is the best video on closeboard fencing I’ve seen. Nice and easy to follow and smashing quality outcome 🎉
I used to be a proffesional gardener and i placed a lot of fences like these. For your first time you did realy great my friend and the result is awsome! greetigs Christofix
Great job! My father always put bitumen paint on the lower parts of his fence posts back in the 1960's to protect against rot and it did a great job! Pressure treated wood is unfortunately not a guarantee against rot.
Thanks Bryan. I think he was very sensible. I swear by that Bostik bituminous paint. Used it to do all the joists on my decking project.
Great video. Put up a fence today and your arris-rail support was useful and the spacer-template a real time-saver
Glad to hear it. Good work👍🏻
Very well done sir - got a lot of good tips for doing fencing on my rambling property - you are a perfectionist !
Dont be afraid. I'm a fence installer and you really pay us more for labor than skill. Anybody can do it with a little research and effort.
Great work, I did a post and rail fence a few years ago, for my posts I first set 65mm galvanised round poles in the ground, then made up box section posts with pressure treated timber hollow in the middle slightly larger than the OD of the poles and then dropped them in over the poles keeping them about 25mm off the ground, it worked great no timber in the ground whatsoever.
Nice to see you again! Missed you and your videos
Thanks mate. It's taken a while to do this and I was felled by flu last week. Hopefully I'm back on the band wagon now!
@@CharlieDIYte I'm happy to see you healthy, active and creative again :)
And congratulations on finishing the fence
A1 civil engineering and clear cut instructions,nice work
Thanks Vincent!
Really informative guide for someone, who is in the same position as you were. It will be the guide I use to do the job. Thanks!
Thanks Richard. Only thing I'd change is perhaps facing the arris rails into the garden, as it does look a bit odd from the road. It's weathering brilliantly though.
Thanks for the heads up on Post Savers, will try them out
Well Charlie - I am impressed well done. I did a similar close boarded fence 30 years ago and the only power tool I had was a corded hammer drill. The land here is clay and flint and each fence hole (24 posts) was an odyssey. I used traditional arris rail but cut all the mortices in the posts by hand and whittled the arris rail ends to suit. It took me 2 weeks full time to erect the posts and arris rails and about another six weeks of weekends only to finish the close boarding. As I was finishing an old boy who had often walked by said to to me 'beautiful job you should do that for a living' I replied Yeah my family would starve! I vowed never to touch a fencing job again - and I have not.I still drive by my old property and that behemoth of a fence is still standing! I do like the easy arris rail solution you had it it must really weaken the post, especially as the point of the eve is a stress raiser.
2 days work for a 3 man gang norman, you would starve.
Great job, I love the belt and braces approach and the fact you are doing the job for the first time like we would doing. Very inspiring, good job.
Around our way we out post in 1.8 meters apart and stager the rails to give as much strength as possible. Top tip put in the posts at each end first and the run string lines between the top and bottom of the post so u can plumb the rest of the posts a lot easier
I find one string line is enough then i use my 6f level to get the posts plumb.
What a star. It's great that guys like this make content such as this. Thank so much
Thanks mate!! 👏👏
Good to see a person do a job that good!
Hay 👋🏽 thanks for uploading and blessing us with your knowledge, this video has been a huge help and thanks for the in depth explanations and great job on your fence ⭐️
Thanks. If I had my time again I'd probably face the close boarding inside. Other than that it looks as good as the day I put it up.
Another great video, and without sounding patronising really professional job. Excellent work
Thanks mate!
Brililant job! You're the only one I've found fixing the cap board! Simple, I know, but I've never tried it so got the confidence now to go get some and attach to my fencing, many tks!
Thanks! Yes it was a lot of fun that job. Though if I did it again I'd probably have the arris rails on the inside to be more conventional 👍
Brilliant video loved every minute. Makes a change from having to watch American diy videos you have made me think that I could do my own fence as I paid £2.500 two years ago and it is already falling apart. Keep up the good work you should be very proud.
Hi Charlie, I just stumbled across this video and I must say, you've impressed the hell out of me as you did it yourself! This video has massively inspired me to do the same when I come to do my garden fence. Many thanks and keep up the great videos :)
Thanks mate, I really appreciate that. Probably should have faced the arris rails into the garden as it would have looked better from the road but it's still looking like new a year on. Good luck with your project 👍🏻
Hi Charlie considering you are a diyer you've done a great job .... Just to add that , as I understand it , the nicer face side should always face towards your neighbours if the fence is your responsibility... As you have done all of it the neater face should have been on the other side. Just in case anyone is reading this you should check carefully who is responsible for the fence.... Hate to spend all that money and find it is the wrong way round. The other thing you can do to prolong the life of the posts is to mound the concrete around the base of the post to form a natural roll off for rain...that also helps with longevity...although the system you used should negate the need to do this step. Great video and super helpful.
Charlie, can't fault the end look but a couple of tips. When I do fencing I use I use a post digging spade, long narrow blade and it has them dug out in no time. I also use a plastic towel scoop or my hand with a thick glove for pulling out the earth and drop deposits on to a plastic sheet so it can be taken away. It does require getting down on your hands and knees though.
Also with the post mix, I put post in the hole then pour half the mix in. Add water so it covers the mix, tamp down a little but not too much, add the rest of the mix, add water as before. The issue of adding the water first is it can drain away at different rate depending on ground conditions.
I do a lot of aris rail fences and they are definitely my fence of choice.
Love your videos in general though!
Thanks Russell, great tips and thanks for not reminding me as thousands of others have, that I put it the wrong way round - which I did for good reasons at the time but in hindsight should have bowed to conventional wisdom. 👍
@@CharlieDIYte it's your choice and you have the better looking side of the fence onto your garden. 😃
Great work AGAIN Charlie! I do enjoy your videos! Thanks.
Thanks Alistair. It was a pig to edit, that one, so I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Very nice work. Your comments at the end about being able to do anything if you do your research are so true. Just need 25 hour days and 8 day weeks 😁
Great job, again. I quite agree do it better than a tradesman. Sounded like it cut the traffic noise down as well. I agree that not breaking the story up was a good idea. Please keep them coming.
Watched a couple of your videos now. Very impressed with the fencing, you done an awesome job.
Thanks Adam 👍
Thank you for this video, I'm going to try copy your technique and build my own fence
Go for it. You'll do a great job. 👊
Very informative. I like the jig for getting the correct overlap, made a similar tool and drilled holes in the jig so that each panels holes were the same I then used stainless steel screws to hold the panel. A bit long winded, but being retired and time not important, I thought that this would make maintenance easier in the future.
Great job Charlie. Those post savers are a fantastic idea always use them now for fence posts. Small note; when trowelling up the finished surface of the concrete hole have a slight peak towards the post so the water runs down away from the post. Obviously with the post savers not too much of an issue but worth doing nonetheless. Also how about a meet up with "the restoration couple" I think you two would really hit it off! I think he's Bristol way.
You did very well for a first time there are many ways of speeding your job up but I have had 30 years at it and I could talk all night you score 4 out of 5 well done
Great video! Very informative and a breeze to watch - 20 mins flew by. Love the professional approach and your research shows in the end result - fantastic job! Will definitely check out more of your videos. 👍🏻
Thanks David - really appreciate that, and you taking the time to comment!!
Charlie DIYte - where do you do your research mate?
Lovely job well done since you had very little experience in erecting fencing, you've inspired me thank you.
Amazing job. Always watch your videos and take your advice as I consider it the best. You ought to do a video on your background. What you have done for work and your early projects. Your biggest mishaps and how you got more involved in what you do and what inspired you. Would be really interesting.
I have never seen a fence like that in the states, not even once. It really does look nice, well done.
Better then what I've seen from professionals good video Charlie!!!!
You did a great job, thank you very much for all your tips, very much appreciated
Great job Charlie thanks for videoing this and making it available to all
Great video i wish I could see more on how you build that beautiful fence never seen one like that before I love it , and been looking to build one soon
Thanks 👍
Absolutely brilliant video, best I have seen on fencing by far. I have 65 metres to do on my house (in east England) and would love to do it like this but fear I may have to take out a second mortgage, I dread to think how much all that god quality wood will cost.
Cheers mate. Yep that's a big old fence you've got there. Panels might be your cheapest option but I couldn't say for sure.
+Alexander Materials will cost about £2800 and labour around £2200 with good access. Just an estimate as to what was charged for a similar length Close board fence in Kent recently.
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. You can help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb or by becoming a Member to unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.
I've been asked to repair many fences like this over the years and while some are rotted off at the bottom, lots break at the bottom V notch. The cut in the post greatly reduces the strength of the post and with tall fences there is allot of leverage in the wind. Most older fences of this design end up having retro fitted concrete godfather supports fitted after the post fails. Some would argue for longevity to just fit concrete posts in the first place.
You still did a good job and better than many contractors I've seen.
Thanks. The thing about these posts is that they're substantial and the v notch goes less than half way through which as a general rule of thumb in the woodworking industry preserves the strength/integrity of the post but I hear what you say and was a bit reluctant to incorporate that third notch on the longer posts.
@@CharlieDIYte There is still allot of satisfaction in doing the job yourself and having a UA-cam channel myself I know putting yourself out there will always attract critics. Keep up the good work. Cheers.
@@Banditmanuk Just been enjoying one of your videos. Nice channel! - Scared of the power of that Yamaha and I'm just sat on the sofa. I'd better stick to my Vito van 🤣
@@CharlieDIYte Ha ha, well thanks for viewing, what I would give for your subscriber count. Result of much hard work I'm sure.
You have a talent to show how easy such projects can be, rather than intimidating. I applaud you for that.
Shouldn't you have left open drainage holes at the bottom gravel boards, where the fence turns left? As far as I can gather, the ground slopes downwards in that direction; while it seems from the footage that the rain collection area is small, a heavy pour could leave you with a pond at the corner.
Thanks!
I always admire your expertise & enthusiasm plus you put each task over exceptionally well !,keep up your good work , an old er experianst DIY disciple CD Thanks Again.
Thanks Colin, I really appreciate that 👊
Well presented and well made. Nice one
Thanks!
Great idea with the additional vertical supports along the bottom rail, I'll be adding that to the fence I'm currently doing. Thanks for the video.
It looks like quite a few gave arrived here because of the recent storms, including me.
The offcut of gravel board on the post is a great idea. Very helpful.
superb watch. exactly what i needed, thanks.
Thanks. I've built a few of these since and this one is still looking as good as when I did it. Don't bother with those post savers though. Just get a tin of Bostik bituminous paint. 👌
Well done! Great video full of useful tips. I like your positive attitude. I have three fence panels flapping about in the wind today. This has motivated me to use you system. Looks more solid structure than panels slotted into concrete posts.
A very helpful video. Mainly because you found the problems and talk about how to avoid them. I have seen this type of fencing last for decades. Whereas cheap slatted fence panels can die in 4-5 years. So, you made the right choice, for an exposed boundary like that. Lots of useful tips and ideas. Thanks.
I have seen post slieving in use before; and wondered how effective it would be. Possibly a better heat-gun would be a pallet shrink-wrap heat gun. Or a roofing torch down lance. Both are MUCH more powerful. Perhaps the latter can be hired.
Thanks for that 👍 Yes that blow torch was too concentrated/ not powerful enough really. However when I do the next lot I'll probably just cover the relevant area of the posts in the Bostik bitumastic paint. The fence is still looking good, I've just got to decide whether to apply a wood preserver to it. The tanalising is fine but clearly doesn't keep the wet out as the fence gets drenched in the rain. I don't think the tanalising process is nearly as effective as it used to be since they took the arsenic out - but no bad thing that they did!! In hindsight I should probably have had the arris rails pointing into the garden but other than that, I'm pretty chuffed with it.
Beautiful job. Belt and suspenders with all the bituminous but it makes sense. We have a TV show here in the states where the head landscaper doesn't believe in using concrete with posts because it speeds up their decay. So he compacts 3/4" (19mm) crushed stone in the bottom and around about half the post in the hole and then adds a layer of road base (crushed stone and stone dust) compacted up to grade.
I put up a wood fence around my yard in 1996.i set my 4x4x8 post in the ground using dirt and pea gravel,no cement .the post have not rotted.all I have had to do is replace some of the boards.
Where? If this was an arid area then 25 years - no surprises.
the tessellater yeah I’m guessing from his lack of response that’s he’s somewhere dry lol
Fantastic and clear job!!
Thanks mate 👍
Really helpful video....once again. I've just lost 5 fence posts to the recent storms so its very timely. I'd never heard of postsavers before seeing this. Thanks.
Howdee from the other side of the pond. Here in the Ozarks of Arkansas where theres more rocks than dirt, what I've done many time when setting wood post is get a piece of #3 or #4 ( 3/8" _1/2") rebar about 8" - 10" long sharpened one end drive it into the bottom of the post, leaving about 3 to 4 inches sticking out to act as a stand off the dirt so that the concrete mix will get under it as well.
Also another trick is to use an old piece of 1/2" or 3/4" pipe about 2 feet long to act as a mixer/ plunger, jabbing it up and down in the concrete.
Oh and yeah very nicely done fence.
Hi William. So sorry my friend, I missed your comment. Wow, Arkansas, that's truly humbling you watched my video all the way back home! Great tips that I'll bare in mind for my next project! Thanks again for the comment!
why wouldn't you just lift your post after setting it instead of wasting the money on rebar? Or just throw a shovelful in before the post.
very interesting and provides encouragement to repair my own fence. THANKS!
Fantastic video, thanks.
Very nice job mate! Puts the "Pros" to shame. I would be very proud of that!
Thanks Colin 👍
Nice video iv jus paused it at 15 minutes to comment on the bitumen paint, your spot on. I made some really nice large 7ft tall gates out of pine an I could of used a varnish to get a posh look but instead I painted the whole gates which are huge in black paint. Hopefully last good 10 years before I replace them
Hi Charlie you have done really well just to say yes little stone in bottom concrete mix in hole first then water and then road pin and make holes in wet mix to let water through to mix first and then like you did small timber and tamp to level what you are doing is getting the air gaps out so the concrete as com packed together and you are right local fencing supplies they would have a corner post so you would have not needed two post . The best tools is a very thine long post spade post hole removal
And my best tool is a very long wrecker bar it’s brilliant does not matter what the ground is like .
Charle just watching one of your other videos brilliant like it kind regards David
Just about to start on a fence project myself. Really informative and engaging video. Saves me having to do research all over the place, and making a botch job of it, cheers 👍
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment Tom, easy not to bother but most appreciated! If I did this again I'd probably have the arris rails on the inside. That's the only thing I'd change and the fence is still looking great.
thanks for the tips mate
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment 👍🏻
Nice to see you getting stuck into some fencing . Our recommendation would be no more than 2.4 post centres and to use a rebated top capping . In addition to using a tin of end seal to protect the cut end of any arris rails or boards you may have such as the sloped corner you amended . We have a very useful sthil auger which in the correct soil will dig a 650mm depth hole in 3-5 seconds 💪😊
A tip that comes from Roman times. If you can figure out which way the timber wicks water, set the post upside down so the end that takes in water is at the top, and the end that ejects water is at the bottom. Plants evolved to wick water one way against gravity so by upending your post, your encouraging water at the bottom of the post out of the timber. An end cap at the top of the post will prevent water seeping in.
Fair point. Unfortunately these were all pre-cut but I like your thinking.
Great video and also some great and informative comments. Cheers
Thanks Adrian 👍
Good vid, I was suprised to see the nails not going through both boards, however your logic of being able to remove the board in future makes some sense.
Thanks Ed. Each to their own I guess on this, but if you go too close to the edge you're going to split the feather board, I imagine.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks I follow your vids and used your fence vid as a guide for doing my own fence this week. I drove nails through both boards. Your tips are always helpful. Nail gun is defo the way to go for fencing jobs
Thanks for this video. You have given me the confidence to do my own.
I do most stuff myself but for some reason I’ve been putting this off and was getting someone to do it, but as I keep getting let down, it’s time to learn!
You're welcome Mark. Yes you should definitely do this. Actually very straight forward once you get started and so satisfying seeing it go up.
I was in a plumbers merchant last summer as a diy"er and twice heard tradesmen asking loudly proudly and clearly ,without shame, when asked which one, the absolute cheapest!. So your better doing the extra work to your satisfaction as some tradesmen won't bother their ass.
That's often heard because the customer wants the cheapest price. Trust me, I and many others deal with this on most jobs. Also at times there is very little difference between a dear item and a cheap one. I was recently shown a packet of Waitrose food that had been labelled in the factory wrong... front label was Waitrose, back label .... Aldi. Same product 3 times dearer for the Waitrose label, exactly the same ingredients.
I really enjoy your videos because there's a real in depth videos
Hi, I used the same paint and took it up to 18" above ground level. The fence has been in for 4 years now and no sign of any rot.
Great job!! Really enjoy your videos! This makes me want to tear my fence down and start again! Haha! 😀