BMW E46 Manual Swap Project: Differential Swap DIY
Вставка
- Опубліковано 30 вер 2017
- My mailing address for correspondence or swag of any kind is on my about page.
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video. - Авто та транспорт
Hey man, just wanted to say THANK YOU for your videos. I just did the CCV change on my wife’s X3 following your step by step help by removing the intake manifold. By far the most intense job I’ve tackled on my own, but the car runs so smooth now. You’ve got the best car repair channel on YT, hands down.
Thanks, man, I'm glad to hear you pulled off that job. It gives you great experience.
Thank you Jason, for this detailed video. I will be replacing my diff bushing and axle seals on my 04 330ci. There is a little bit of oil on one side of the differential. I have seen the other video (bushing replacement) and liked it. Again, thank you.
Getting ready to swap in a new diff for my E46. Excellent demonstration and video!
Great tutorial, thank you. I am about to have it done (too complicated for me) to my old 325ci, but going from 3.15 to 3.45 for track use
I wasn't sure my CV was seated completely into the differential because of that light quarter inch area around the CV. Looked everywhere on the net (Thanksgiving today) SCREENSHOT your driveshaft BEFORE you started prying and blew it up. same quarter inch! THANK YOU!!! now I can put the last couple support brackets on and DONE.....U DA MAN !!!
Wow! Very nice video. Excellent job initially giving perspective for your video audience (front to rear of car). Details make the difference! The steps (alot of them) are well described and well articulated. Being an E90 owner, not sure I want to try to do an AT 6MT swap, but it was a thought at one time. Replacing my diff with a LSD is definitely in the cards though.
Thanks again!
Steve
You are a life saver, appreciate the great work keep it up
Great video, it helped me a lot, thank you.
If you put the screwdriver into the middle of the caliper housing, radially into the wheel, it stops the wheel in both directions.
I am so glad I found this channel. Thank you. Very informative, did not leave out any detail, just bought a e46 and your channel is gonna make working on it a breeze. +1 sub
Thank you so much for making this video the top speed was only like 120 and ringing it out on the highways really hurts my soul.
Great video as always Jason!
Oh this is f****n great. I was dreading this, but i see you didn't remove the exhaust and with that the job seems far easier thank you.
I love you for always saying what size socket/wrench
Great videos, great channel! Keep up the great work!
Your a good teacher and communicator
A really nice video. The details you provide a perfect. I have only one piece of advise. As per BMW-TIS, the bolts for the Propshaft and Driveshafts are supposed to be changed every time you loosen them. They are considered stretch bolts and have a dab of thread glue on them. Unfortunately BMW does not sell them anymore, so as an alternative we should use thread glue on the old ones.
I know this as i had to find out the hard way. 3 years ago I installed a LSD in my e46 330i and this summer after 60 000km, I broke a driveshaft in the middle of no where. It turned out that i had lost 4 bolts and the last two wern't able to handle the torque. When they broke, they broke the Driveshaft flange and pretty much destroyed the inner CV joint.
I had to get the car towed, had to buy a new drive shaft and find 12 new bolts. Had I know this back then i would still have had my original driveshaft.
Long story short: For piece of mind I suggest adding some thread glue ;)
Ok I will do that next time, thanks
Bro I gotta do this to my 330ci. I'm contemplating on me doing it myself or a shop. I do want to save money. My rear diff bushing jacked up, common on these e46's. Wish me luck dude👍💯. Great video by the way
Took my diff out of my 318i because of whine at 50kph , second hand price for replacement here was $330, should be here next week so have the refit procedure still to come, watching this video really helped for removal process , thank you ,,
Its probably your synchros. 2nd gear?
really good job and helpful video, greetings from germany 😎
love your videos. very useful.
2:1 is tall gear.
6:1 is short.
If you swapped out 3.15 with 3.46 it means you swapped out it with shorter diff, not longer. Autos are shorter. In explaination you made that mistake few times.
thank you for your video. i'm going to change the bushing on the back of the differential that you mentioned. it's making a lot of noise.
Great information! I went on here looking for exactly this info. Just bought a 325iT 5 spd manual and it has gears like you had. 1st gear ran out in about 2-3 seconds and 5th saw 3200 rpm at 65 mph. My former auto (same model) saw 2400 rpm @ 65mph…Must be around a 338 dif I’d say. Would like to have heard what changed in your Rpm’s at 75-80 mph? Thanks for listing the ratios of all the models. 👍
Done mine and wasn’t too bad. I used axel puller with 5lbs slide hammer to change axel flanges and 1 pull out . Mine was different. My original was the 2.93 and the 3.38 gave it the extra pull.
Dis your speedo sill read correct
Another great edu video
Thank You! Very helpful!
I have a 320d built for offroad so i put in tbe 3.38 diff and welded it its terreble on the highway but great on dirt roads and mud
Your of great help. Thank you.
Thanks for the vid. I'm putting in a diff with an LSD tomorrow. Today I had enough with the removal... :D
There is a very old UA-cam legend that says if you tell 50's Kid he did a great job with his differential swap, he will respond...
thanks, man!
Hi mate fantastic Step by Step video you did very well especially doing it on the floor it's a tricky enough job on the lift great job mate
Thanks dude!
If you haven't thought about it already, you should build a track toy or drift car
Other channels have done it, but none with your level of detail. It could easily broaden your fanbase
+James Kurz thanks I will definitely consider it!
omg dude im buildinng an e46 drift build rn , restoring it going thru his rebuild videos and just doing every repair he does, once im finihsed it ill be onto the drift build
mine is the same model and year and it would be amazing to have your videos to continue watching while continueing with my prject
sorry for absolute terrible spelling...
but yea keep it up 50sKid you are a lot of peoples hero
+50sKid
Great vid, thx!
Awesome video as usual. Question: I have a leak at the junction where the passenger side axle bolts into the output flange. I thought it was a leaky seal, but now I see the seal is between the flange and the diff. What do you think it could be?
Hello! Really good video, keep up the good work! Also, i wonder if you heard about part of this diff installing/swapping process call "centering the diff". I just heard mechanics dropping these term. I guess its about centering towards the shaft/axles !? anyone!?
Awesome Video!!! do you think will be the same process on an e90?? thanks very much!
-a 40's kid
Great job. Don't switch back to the auto trans. I'm assuming this isn't your daily but even if it is try to keep the manual. Now you have a very desirable BMW.
it is my daily yes
50sKid buy a corolla and keep this gem for the weekends then lol. Unless you don't have much traffic on your commute...heavy traffic really ruins the fun of a manual.
Great videos, I just bought a 330i and your channel has been of great help, if you are swaping for automatic later on, can you please sell me the manual swap kit? let me know, thanks!!!
Man i feel the same way with mine, but mine was manual to begin with and whoever had it last put a 3.46 welded diff in it, and i hardly drive the car cause its just a pain in the ass to turn cause its welded and at 3k in 5th gear youre only doing 60mph so youre getting ran down by any car on the road, so i cant wait to put the new one in.
I am watching your videos just wondering why you don't open your own mechanic shop? You are very knowledgeable and knows how to fix car? Thanks
All those components were meant to be together, no surprise that you are happier with it as designed. I really enjoy your vids, thanks for posting them. Oh and for some real fun, take a SULEV car, cut that old fuel pump out and tig weld a patch in that accepts a replaceable fuel pump. What a stupid thing BMW did! My E46 SULEV has about 190K and the fuel pump is soft failing. Over 6K for a new tank. I'm going to miss my E46:-( Word on the forums is that an M3 fuel pump puts out the right pressure. Would make for some cool vids and maybe save a lot of cars.
Hello, and thanks for this video. I'm in the middle of doing my upper rear control arms and Diff bushing. I love the screw driver trick. Saves a lot of time. Also, the 18mm 3/8ths extension between the exhaust is the best way to go. I should have paid more attention to that part because I used an angle wrench. Works but to put back in, the 18mm 3/8ths extension is how we can get it goot'n tight... My question now is, putting everything back, How important is it to put the drive Shaft bolts in the exact same way? Some people say if connected in a different orientation, the drive Shaft may become unbalanced? Do I need to worry about this. My drive by the way is the has the same connection as yours, 6 e12torx bolts
No the drive shaft is balanced as an assembly off the car. Doesn't matter how the ends bolt in.
Makes me want to go out and put an automatic diff in my manual 330ci! Talk about cheap power to the road gains!
Your top speed will be like 110 though lol
You are great help bro
Although I did pull some of the drive shaft along with the diff. I’m not sure if that’s unusual?
Great video as always. A quick question, what would be more work...... this full manual swap, or repair my d/drum in my automatic ZF?. It has the famous "No Reverse" issue. Drives perfect in all forward gears. Any advice is really appreciated. Thanks again
Manual swap less problems
You have it backwards, tall gears give you low RPMs, not what you are saying. Tall gears appear as numerically low numbers. So if you had a final drive of 2.5 vs 3.5, the 2.5 is considered the tall gear, meaning you can cover more mph per 1000rpms.
Mister 50sKid. Is this the 330i? And what car did the new differential came out of? It's because I also am planning on swapping the differential but I have my doubts if all the output flanges are interchangeable.
50s kid I have a question. Bmw says to align the driveshaft with the marks you make with a paint marker I assume that’s if your using the same diff. So my question is will I be ok mounting the driveshaft to the new diff because obviously I will not have a mark to go by. Just want to make sure the job will still come out correctly last thing I need is to replace the driveshaft too. I appreciate it also should I use thread seal on all the drive axle bolts or just the stretch bolts
Hey, I realize that it’s been a long time since you did this but I was looking to do the same work, my car is the same just red instead. Is there more than one manual that drops in? I think I heard you mention, from other videos of yours, a few things that make me believe you are local (in the L.A. area), if that’s true where is the best yard to find parts for these things, hopefully you know of someplace better than LKQ in Sun Valley I can’t imagine how much a differential would cost from those aholes..at that place even the drip pan under the radiator is around $50! All cars die in Sun Valley right or no?
"Its just that simple" 29:25
LMAO
Just done this conversion on a 325 touring and know exactly where your coming from (completed less than 48 hrs ago) its just to revvy and gear-changes are frequent and completely unnecessary so I am looking out for a 3.15 unit and junk the existing 3.46 the M54 motor is quite linear in delivery so cant see it making a huge difference to the acceleration which is quite frisky at the moment obviously.
Hey 50sKid I like your work and very fast paced and active dude nice work only I want to get a bit technical, do those bolts need to be torqued to specs ? I would of thought they had to be torqued like everything else in the drivetrain. Also my main concern in changing gear ratios will your speedo be off a bit along with your tach??? How can you get the cluster to read your new gearing properly?
That's a good question (about the speedo). An older car would have used an actual speedometer cable that would run off the output shaft of the transmission so nothing would change if you change your diff gears. On newer cars, you have a wheel speed sensor that detects the rpm of the wheel directly (the same sensor is used for the anti-lock braking system). You can change your differential and make the car accelerate to 20 mph faster or slower, but your wheel will always been turning at 20 mph.
And yes every bolt has a certain torque but you kind of learn over time when something is tight enough not to come off and when you're about to make something so tight that the head strips off.
Great vid man I to swaped my 330i from auto to 5sp an the 3.38 diff is super fun till you hit highway speeds.I changed mine to a 3.07 as I still wanted a little more pick up.Now looking at trying the racing diff LSD kit but the videos on it are rubbish.
Hey man, I have a 320i auto with a 3.38 diff and im thinking to switch to a 3.07 for a comfortable highway use. Did u notice a big change and do you recommend? I dont realy like the high idle at highway speeds
@@The-qh3vg yesit'llarond25-3k on res at iway speeds
@@T34MKILL4 thanks
Quick question i have an e60 525d 6 speed i broke my diff and the one i have the ratio is 2.56 can i swap one from the 530d ratio 2.47
For freeway at 80 you really want the 6 speed 😉
hey, love your channel and videos. I just had a small question. did you experience any play in the input and output flanges on your diff? i have a LSD from a z3 m with 200k on it and i'm noticing maybe 1-2mm of play in the input flange of the diff before the ouput flanges engage. kinda wanted to know your experience. thanks
Yeah there was play. A little is normal. As long as there is no noise, if it ain't broke don't fix it.
If you’re doing this for a 2003 325xi manual swap you’ll also want to swap the front differential with a manual one as well as the back?
After my swap my gearing is 1st,3rd to 5th on hills. And when flat 2nd start,3rd to 5th. I have a 3.91
Would I see that same acceleration if I swapped out a 318ti manual diff to an auto diff from the same model?
Did you get your manual diff from the same year model ?
Nice video 50sKid! I just replaced my rear droplinks and did the bracket that holds them to the arm. Those two bolts/nuts that sit right by the spring are a right bitch to get to. I didn't bother taking the springs out either which is what a lot of people recommend. How come you didn't mark up the drive shafts for re-installing? Aren't they weighted from factory and need to be bolted in the same way?
I don't believe the CV axles have any balancing on them because they're so short--I may be mistaken on that as I've never noticed, however if they were balanced they were balanced as an assembly off the car. The main driveshaft itself IS balanced, but, again, it's done as an assembly off the car. So there's no point in marking it in relation to where it bolts up to the diff or the transmission. You would only mark it in the middle of you were going to split apart to change the center support bearing.
You may be right. Other people and sources of information say to chalk them up and put them back together the same way.
Would you say that the subframe/diff bushings that go bad over time, contribute to the subframe tearing issue? When you think about it, if those bushings crack and no longer absorb impact, your diff will literally be tugging on the unibody. Same thing applies to the subframe bushings themselves I guess.
I swaped a 3.38 in my manual 330ci a few months ago and i looved it. The car felt much faster, but t hat was just my personal preferance.
Yeah I've been getting a lot of comments and it does seem like it's all down to personal preference. Personally I'd like a 3.07 with a 6-speed trans... but don't want to spend any more money lol. The 6-speed is longer so you need a different shifter and drive shaft.
50sKid i thought i could even go to 3.46 since the 3.38 didnt seem as short as i thought
Dido Stoyanov At 80 mph how high are your rpms?
, how do I upgrade my 04 xi to a faster one and how did you determine that you needed to change that out what noises did you hear
Great video. would it be possible to do a short video to show how you checked the new diff was ok before you fitted it, or alternatively use the old diff to demonstrate this. ie free play between the input and output shafts due to any wear in the ring gear, also if you rotate the output shafts in opposite directions, how notchy should they feel due to the spider gears. the reason im asking is: On my Z4 I have what feels like free play in the driveline making it hard to get smooth shifts, especially 1st - 2nd very similar to how you described in your previous videos. im aware it can be down to several things from Dual mass flywheel, driveshaft guibo, centre bearing, UJ joint, Diff play, Diff Bush, or the CV joints. in my car the guibo looks ok.
i have the same issue on my z3 m. 1st to 2nd is rough and clanky but the rest of the shift up are perfectly fine. I believe that there is a whole lot of torque transfer from 1st so the shift is very clanky. i replaced my clutch and i examined the guibo and flywheel and all were in good shape. i did not examine the drive line when i was under there and i'm beginning to think its warn out U joints in the drive shaft and a beaten up CSB. i hope this gives you some insight. fiy the CSB has about an inch of rubber holding the bearing in the center. a very worn out csb might give a good amount under heavy load. anyway take care.
Thanks for that reverse melting channel, The CSB and the DMF are the only components I cant really inspect easily. last week i found there was some slight play in the inner CV joints, maybe a couple of mm when turning by hand, and also a smaller amount in the diff itself, but I have no idea how much is acceptable. so I ordered a new CV axle on ebay for £60, but after spending a couple of hrs taking the old one off of the car when the new one arrived both of the joints in it were very loose and rattly, much more so than the old ones when comparing on the bench, possibly due to it being a very cheap quality part, so i ended up sending it back. Ive waste a lot of time on trying to solve this problem. Its so annoying I notice it every time i drive the car im almost scared to change gear sometimes cos as soon as i depress the clutch i get a clunk and feel a jolt through the car and then the same when i release the clutch, its not every time but quite often especially between 1,2 & 3 rd gear. Rev matching can minimise it. Im getting quite concerned that it may turn out to be the the dual mass flywheel, and thats very expensive to replace.
I was surprised at the DMF when i took it off to examine it. My car has 200k miles on it and the original DMF was still good. The surface had an appropriate mar on it and the play was within tolerance so dont freak out if you think yours is bad. I think a good way to test the dmf is to start in 1st on an incline. depress the clutch 1/2 way and try to get your clutch to slip and listen to the flywheel clank back. if your DMF has alot of give then the clank will be strong and frequent and the sound will come from the front of the car. for me, the clunk is coming from more the in the center of the car which is where the drive shaft is. Also, be careful with used parts on ebay especially parts that are high force parts. its best to go new. i know it sucks on the wallet but a new driveline might be the best thing. best of luck.
Reverse Melting Channel, thanks thats made me feel less worried, today i jacked 1 of the rear wheels and lay underneath and while turning the wheel back and fourth in 1st gear, the only free play i could find was the inner cv joints and also the rear diff bush has a very fine crack that i can see expand about 1mm when levering with a crow bar. So i think i will change both cv axles and the bush. I then had a cunning idea of how to check the DMF freeplay. I put the car into 5th gear, ie 1 - 1 gear ratio, then watched the output flange of the gearbox and it would turn about 9mm measured around the outer circumference of the guibo, by using some maths ive worked out what that would be when expanded to the diameter of the DMF, and freeplay is about 25mm, so that seams ok to me. Ive never heard of this method so it maybe completely invalid but makes sense in my head LOL.
Good job! and you did not think to put LSD from BMW e36? The only thing is to digest the fasteners on the beam...
I run a 3:38 rear diff out of an auto in my 6 speed car (330i) and it is not nearly as aggressive (to me) as you say it is. I understand it is a matter a preference but I do enjoy the responsiveness that the shorter gears gives the car. Also running a short shifter helps with driveability. Some people put in the 3:48 diff and the M3's come with 3:63 I think which is way aggressive. I 'll keep an eye out for the rear diff bushing replacement. I actually had mine changed out but I had a shop do it.
Nick Torres 50sKid has a 5-speed, it's perfectly fine to run a 3.38 or even 3.46 in 6-speed transmissions. Some even do 3.64...
That would defiantly explain it then thanks
The gears are actually the same in 5 and 6 speed gearboxes... the only difference is 6th gear drops to 1: .85 but Ok other gears are the same.
I heard auto diffs are 3.46’s and manuals are 3.01’s
Save my life and tell me if the 3.38 swaps right into the 6 speed 330. Or does it need mounting hardware or some kind of part
I would've set a mid setting.. diff.. not as tall but not as the original with the manual.. so you have both quick acceleration and good top end..
Definitely an option.
Ay yo... I have 2 of those m10x43 zns3 bolts (E12) that are stuck in the different and they're stripped.. ihavent been able to replace my left rear axle cus of this. My axle snapped at that spots and the axle is out but the other side is still stuck in the differential. Just the circle oary that has the screws in it.. I need help with this... I wanna give up... idk what to do.. and my left diff came out the subframe... as well... just like you said.. why and how?? How to fix.
Do you have any videos changing the cam position sensors
What type and size are those differential Fastener bolts? Doesn't look like a regular socket.
What is the electric socket tool called that you used?
my diff whines when there is no load on it ( when i take the foot off the pedal for just a sec or when downhill) but no noise if straight road or uphill... Any ideas?
so what ratio is your old diff and what is the new one ?
I have a question and I am looking for your help please, I have 2007 BMW (E90) with noisy rear differential. My rear diff. Spec. Is: part# 7524324 with 3.73 ratio. It is hard to find these in the Canadian market off a junkyard. Can I swap it with one off e90 (328i/325i) which has the same ratio 3.73 but different part#7519941. Please help me. I am tired of this noise and start to hate my ride 😔 thank you so much!!
Hi. Do you know much tork goes to the differential oil cover?
Hey I have a question. unrelated to the differential. I have this one spark plug cylinder that makes a clicking noise, and when i pull out the spark plug coil, the clicking stops. Also, i run the engine and pull out one spark plug coil at a time and there is no change at all to the engine. I use a multimeter and all spark plugs coils have resistance of .5ohm or higher. Im lost..
How can you run the engine and pull a spark plug? Once you disconnect the coil, its not going to get power.
I have a m3 Rear Subframe / Differential with a 3.62 in my 2002 330i with a 5 Speed and daily it
wow lol how short is first and second gear? lol
Maybe someone can help me🙄.. I've just bought an E46 320D but which have been swap to a M54b30 (330i).. my question is; how to know if the differential also have been swap to a 330i knowing that the brakes on the car is still from the 320D
Can I install a e46 m3 differential onto a e46 2004 325ci ? , Would it harm the clutch or trans or engine?
Are you going to create a video showing the replacement of the differential bushings?
Yeah it's next. Only the one cracked one though.
did you use a special BMW tool in replacing this rear diff bushings? or home made?
I think you mean it's geared so low as it is, not so "high".
For some reason the 325ci convertible came with a 3.46 diff. I can be in 5th going 35 mph.
Hey 50’s kid !! It’s me again, from your last video ! I had a lean condition and my bank 1 short term fuel trim was stuck at %27.34, so you recommended that I changed my Upstream Bank 1 O2 sensor, and I did it ! Unfortunately the problem is still there. But I can read fuel trims now ! When I reading them the other day, the fuel trims looked kind of normal when I was giving gas at around 3000 ish, but when I let the car idle, both Banks 1&2’s fuel trims went up ! Both went up to 27.34% and then stopped. I’m really confused at this point. What do you think? Right now my only codes are P0171. Help me please 😭
Ok NOW your symptoms are of a classic vacuum leak. All you have to do is find it and fix it. Make a smoke machine like in my video on that subject if you can't find it.
50sKid you got it !
50sKid So far I’ve checked the disa valve, app the intake boots, secondary air pump, but so far nothing. I’ve checked the CCV, but it’s not cracked from where it usually cracks at (hose going to the dipstick) , so I’m in the process of removing the intake manifold to get a better view of things.
@@AdamCMoreno did you find the leak?because i have the same problem on my e39 520i M52 tu
(thats a shorter gear.. not a taller gear ;) )
Right I got them confused
Hey bro would you suggest reinforcing the sub-frame bushing even if there isn't any signs of cracking? If so what method would you recommend?
I would say that if you have a manual it may be worth doing. Personally I feel like welding is really the only way to go. It's what the dealerships were doing. I seem to remember there was one dealer TSB that had them spraying epoxy into a cavity or something. But welding the plates is the way to go. But if you have an automatic I wouldn't worry. Only the early manuals and all the M3s develop the problem (the M3s do it because they have so much power).
First of all I would like to say thank you for responding I really appreciate it because I know how busy you might be. I just picked up a 2004 325i with a lot of issues and I am trying to get it car worthy, I did the oil filter housing gasket, shocks, and I'm getting a noise from the rear so I think its that or the Diff. I inspected the area and did see any cracks. However it looks like the diff has been leaking for some time so I decided I will rebuild it and while I have it off I was considering getting the bushings done and also reinforcing the welds/area. However if that is not necessary and if there aren't any signs of cracking I may just leave it. With that said I would thinkin the epoxy because that I can do (DIY) welding will be a whole different story. I also have a MAF error I think because the car just shuts off/stalls on me while I'm test driving and I'm trying to get to the bottom of that as well. Either way excuse my lengthy Thank you, but I'm just letting you know what I'm dealing whit even before actually driving the car lol. Thanks again bro.
I wonder if this diff would work in an E85 Z4.
Greetings where the differential sensor is located
Hey man I changed the diff on my 330ci from a 330i both 2001 automatic and when I noticed it doesn’t have a sway bar, after I got done replacing the diff I went for a test drive and when I turn right the rear left wheel locks and when I turn left the rear right wheel locks any ideas?
Yeah. Get a fucking sway bar. Wtf?
Why not the 2 front bushings?
I don't know if this question has an obvious answer, but if I'm shifting in tiptronic in my e46 325i, will the rpm "distance" between each gear be the same when I do the manual conversion, or will it give me even less rpms in each gear (shorter amount of time while accelerating before having to gear up)? I could tolerate the manual transmission without a diff swap if it shifts the same way the auto trans does in tiptronic, but if the gears get shorter, I'm gonna have to find a manual diff before doing the conversion. And manual diffs seem to be the rarest item in australia.
No the gears get super ridiculously short, especially 2nd. The car accelerates almost twice as fast and the top speed drops to about 100mph
Thanks for the reply, man! Big fan of your channel. I'll have to hold out until I find the proper diff then before doing the convert. Would 4 cylinder e46 diffs work as well? Because that would at least broaden my search field.
Can I just change one bushing like the one that’s connected to the diff bc I noticed my other two are cool but that one hooked up too the diff is all ripped apart ?
Yes
Can you do this on a 2002 BMW 745i 7series???
Could you do this the other way around for a manual to get better mpg
I don't think so, not a swap at least. I believe the lowest gear is 2.93 and already in the manuals. You could probably build a custom diff with lower gears if you really wanted to go that route
1m35 I try with a 5 speed gearbox and it's 130 mph. at 6800 RPM
Can someone tell me why i only have one hole on my diff i couodnt find a drain hole
Jesus, this is what you get from a scrap yard?? It looks brand new! You should see what we get here in Quebec. There is so much rust on the parts in scrap yards you can barely see any paint.
so you say you dont prefer that 338 with manual trans, is not easy to drive around?
Yeah the shorter gears from the automatic diff were a little too much for me. Makes the car really quick but way too much work
@@50sKid I see thanks
Interesting I Swapped my differential in a ZHP to a 3.38 and yes the gears feel shorter but not a whole lot. I daily the car and at 80mph in 6th I'm Doing maybe 3.1k rpms.
Now my 328i only has 5 gears and at 80mph it spins at roughly 3.3k that's with a differencial with taller gears... 2.93... if my ZHP has a 2.93 it would do some 2.5k at 80... just my 2c
All in all I think a 3.07 is still best bet for 6 gear cars
I think a 3.07 would be good for my car as well. Hell, the 325i manuals have a 3.15. They put the 3.07 in the ZHPs as well as the 323i's so I'm sure I can find one soon enough.
I have the same problem on my e53, manual with m54 engine. Cruising 75 miles, 5th gear, 75 miles/h - 3.600 rpm. First gear is a joke. Starting in second gear is no problem. Manual transmissions are very rare option in e53. I believe that bmw did not bother to install or develop front and rear differential for manual transmission. Shame!
Wow didn't even know they made a manual e53
those are near identical numbers for my z3 m s52. I'll never understand why 5th is such a low ratio. doesnt germany have the autobahn?
Fluid change?
I did change it--they actually drain the old stuff in the junkyard so technically I had to fill it.