Hey George, I tried the method you showed to make the gasket, but unfortunately my lid was a bit different so it didn't work. What I ended up doing was to turn the lid upside down, run tape around the outside to make a dam, then filled that with the silicone. this worked a treat and also bonded to the lid so it doesn't fall off. Just sharing in case anyone else needs an alternate method.
You can use a cheap alternative to tape or silicone and do what I do as a chef, using flour turned into dough strips to seal the lid. Its used in kitchens for stews or slow braising to keep all them juices in. Hope this helps!
Also, I'm NOT vegan. And "Organics" in the food industry IS a Joke .. Catch phrases and marketing wank ... Your seal method - natural ... Natural = good (usually)
George, I’m a novice distiller and I’m so happy I found your videos. I’ve learned so much from you. Besides being so knowledgeable, you’re extremely entertaining. Thank you!
I've found the easiest reusable seal for those cooking pot lids is to use a section of your condensers water line. Cut a slit the whole length, being careful to keep it straight, and just slip it onto the edge of the lid and clamp it tight. May not hold up to your air pressure test, but really, a still should only run about 5-7 psi. Any more than 10 psi and somethins not right. But I always love to watch you work , George. Any time I need calculations, figures, or details that I tend to forget, this is where I come to find them. All your time and work is greatly appreciated. I've been doing this over 20 years, and I still learn something new from almost every episode. Thank you, and Keep it up.
@@grancito2 - Most modern pot stills, yes. I use a modular, hybrid, reflux system with a 2" pipe at a 45, 2lbs of marbles in a sight glass, down to 1/2" pipe into 1/2gal infuser, down to an old style worm coil condenser thats 50' of 3/8 pipe, on top of a standard 15.5gal beer keg. Technically, its "open", but is also quite restricted, and does build up a decent amount of pressure, especially toward the tails. I chase a lot of leaks, but totally worth it when it puts out 3gal of 180+ proof in about 3 hours. I Love the hint of coffee I get from the infuser. (I drop it to 100 proof leave in 3 gal barrels made outta mesquite for #@%. Bottles around 95 proof.
I've been watching you channel for about 3 years. Thank you for all of the attention to detail on how to and what to and not to do. I really appreciate the fails and successes. You are the man brother
Thank you for the tip on the silicone I build a gasket it works great I have a beautiful stainless steel still now and I'm making caramel rum using Werther's original in the Thumper
I watch this gentleman everyday, he is informative, covers allot in a short amount of time, keeps safety in mind and does not confine himself to one way of thinking.
I wonder if they're the Pacific reason he used electricity instead of using the top of a gas stove or a gas burner, for me I would rather use gas I don't know if he used the electricity to keep it from scorching or if gas will scorch it or whatnot but I think I would rather try gas first for myself, that way you do not have to be close to electricity if you have a shed or a rock house that you prefer to brew at. Here in the South it's very illegal and I would hate to get caught with one in my house cuz I'm sure they would try to take my property as bad as they are here
A discarded beer keg and a couple of ports cut in, plus the connections I made in the welding department at the community College got my homemade still up to snuff. But I swear, before I saw this video, I already tried everything you did, on my own. Crazy how great minds think alike.
Well im in south Africa in no alcohol lockdown 1 months now we don't know when it will end so i need to be creative...and you know what mr George said once it's in your blood...i thing i got a new habit 😊
George,thxs for realizeing that everyone doesn't have all the best tools and cash,,it really grips me when watching a programme and the guy,about ready to go to the last step tells me we need a rocket ship to get spacedust to do the last step and with out it none of the rest will work, Thxs again for the videos and real info that can be used,, gb
I built a gasket in a similar way, but I used this method: in the lid I made the silicone adhere while I put some soap on the pan, I let the silicone dry a bit and then I inserted the lid so it has a perfect shape of the edge of the pot. The gasket is always attached to the lid while from the pot it comes off easily because of the soap. a big hello!
@@mattpeacock5208 Because of my bad English I don't know if I understand correctly. I try to answer: between the lid and the pot I only put liquid soap (to have a detachment of the seal). The silicone resists the boiling temperature, there is also silicone for "high temperatures". Actually it would be advisable to buy "food grade" silicone but I haven't found it locally.
on my first pot still, it came with a 1/2" stack and i would be running damn near all day, glad I came back for more education before getting another still. Thank you for all the information george!
Hi George, the best cheapest seal is clear food grade rubber hose, the same that’s used for the water flow on the condenser of any still. Just slice the edge and fold over the edge of the pot not the lid. When heated it will mould into a really good seal.
@@Aleksandr-Herman the rubber hose split down the middle didn't work for me I've had better luck with cheap 1/4 inch weather stripping... I use it on the outside edge of the bowl dome
I use a length of soft silicone tubing, cut to the circumference of my pot. Slit open lengthwise and pop the slit over the edge of the pot. Makes a nice rubber cushion and using spring clamps such as bulldog clamps, the lid seals nicely and the gasket can be removed and washed.
when we made silicone gaskets on cars we'd wipe a very thin smear of vasolene on the mating surfaces and then apply a continous bead of silicone sealant to one surface and then bolt the two surfaces until the silicone sealant just begins to bulge, and then we leave it for a few days to cure before retightening. Ive seen food grade pure silicone sealant like CRC food zone. Others say 100% silicone glass /aquarium sealant is safe after it has taken 7 days to set and gas off.
Hello George. It's not too often I see somebody creative enough to stop me in my tracks. Your concise, funny, great with measurements, and engineering prototypes. Very well done. I look forward to your other videos. Thank you.
Love all your video's, my goto source of home distilling. I'm making this comment as I await my first ever drops of head. I had the same issue with creating a good seal on the pot. I have a 12.5 inch pot so I bought me a 12.5 inch bicycle tire tube. Sliced it open to the ID diameter and after a good cleaning slid it over the lid and it seals great. (black rubber tubel
Just watched all of your first sweet potato vodka video & thought hmmm I need to figure out a diy still search it first guy to pop up & couldn't be more pleased!
i absolutely love your videos. Your knowledge and how you explain it is great! You're chill to the point i gotta watch in 1.75 speed, but that's cool with me!
Rtv 650 high temp silicone sealant, food grade. Instead of using it and then sealing it to the lid, only put it around the lid and use your finger to smooth it out. Cure 24 hours max. And for clamps you could use adjustable locking pliers, pretty cheap from walmart, I'd suggest 10 and get an extra 2 just incase. Cheaper than the one you described, but if it ain't broke, don't fix it! Love the videos George, keep em coming!
Use salt dough as a gasket ,1 part flour to 1 part salt to quarter part water use some binder clips ,as it heats the dough gets rock hard ,ran atleast 50 gallons of shine out of a 5 gallon still never had a leak
Enjoyed! Love watching! Great video for folk trying to get in the hobby and save and be safe! As always George thanks for your seemingly infinite knowledge and keep up the awesome videos! Cheers! 🍻
On part 2 will you show us how you wire your plug for the heating element? I know it’s simple but love watching the master!! And thanks for the 3 new videos!!
Great lesson my still had a 3/8” copper pipe for my vapor. Like you said it takes forever. I went a got a 5/8” pipe with fittings to convert mine over. I’m hoping to cut the time in half. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge.
0:31 I got this still as a gift. I kept saying no to it and I just wanted to wine but then I was curious and ran it once...now I cant wait to operate again!!
My thought was that as with refrigeration the 5/8 inch orifice would act like a Venturi and the expansion of the gases or vapor in this case would cool. I thought that this would allow some of the condensed vapor to drip back down which is almost the same as a copper plate. That was my thought maybe you can give me a little more insight. Thanks for getting back to me cliff
I use plumbing pipe repair tape. It's extremely stretchy and sticks to itself without adhesive. You just wrap it around the outside of the lid and pot to seal them together. It's quite easy to remove. It can't be re-used, but it's so stretchy that you'll be shocked to see how little you need each time. I can't recall the name of it off-hand, but I need to buy more soon. I'll try to remember to add it when I do.
Buying 6 things to make a custom gasket feels like an overwhelming scavenger hunt. Prowling flea markets for used pressure cookware could be less stressful and maybe less time consuming.
George, the tire pressure valve is good but the place you put it could be a bad spot if you were to try and mount a 2-3 inch pipe column ,, as I remember from the previous videos just made, where still colapesed , if you did that farther away from the center , and then mounted a small ball valve as a pressure relief when done cooking just turn lever on valve and turn heat off , , as you have stated you plan on a dome of some kind you will be cutting a good size hole in the lid, so all I said would not mater,
Hi George. with your lighting you could use a big white board. where the camera lens is. and shoot , the light from the sides would then bounce off onto your face. if it's too much light on your face. you could try a smaller one by the camera. if it's too much light hitting your face. use a smaller one. or not enough light use a bigger one or one on each side of the camera.
You can use water glass made by adding sodium hydroxide to crystal cat litter(silica gel costs about 30 bucks a bag) and water. Add the lye in small portions until you have a super saturated solution. It will immediately crystalize on contact with anything so dilute slightly and brush on a paper gasket both sides. Drop on lid and heat pot. Now this seals head gaskets, cracked heads, and alcohol wont break it down when dried, neither will rtv which in all honest wouldnt hurt anything its used all the time in the food industry only not called rtv its the same thing only approved by the fda to use in food. Kinda like food grade buckets and non food grades all the same dam thing only one costs more.
As a test for leaks you can do what they do when checking your tires. Put it in some soapy water and see if it makes bubbles. then you know if is leaking and where.
Even if you can afford to buy a super cool still, I recommend you build your first still. It helps you better understand how it works and helps you fix issues if they arise.
Does the lid hold down clamps just latch on or do you have to mount with tiny screws ? I can only find the clamps that attach with screws on side of pot. Where can I purchase clamps that just snap on to lid to hold it on ? Thanks.
I've been trying to figure out how I was going to install my heating element into the side of my boiler. (6 Gal stainless pot) I never thought about just putting a nut on the inside! Perfect!! I'm using a 6 gallon stainless pot which has a 13" diameter at the lip. I bought a large stainless bowl that was also a 13" diameter at the lip to use for the dome shaped top. I used a crap ton of Teflon tape around the 13" lips sealing the lid with Harbor Freight plastic clamps. I am going to change this to the method that you used. I cut a 1.75" hole in the bowl and then made an extrusion tool that would extrude the hole to fit a Dernord 2" weld ferrule. From there up it looks pretty much like your 8 Gallon pot still. I made my own shotgun condenser too. However, my first C.O.B. batch tasted like unwashed cow ass. So I went back and watched more videos. Turns out that that should have been my sacrificial run to clean out the still. I can now identify the nasty flavor in the product to be that of soldering flux. Thanks for putting out all the great videos!! CJ
Unwashed cows ass (LAMO). I can definitely identify with that. I've had fermentations smell like two asses ha, ha. Good job and keep at it. We learn from others and I really appreciate the comments and information we get back from our community. Let me know if you ever need any help. I'll do what I can. George
I used a silicon cookie mat and cut out the gasket....and I use binder clips to clamp the lid down...works like a charm. I also used leftover silicon mat to make gaskets to seal my riser pipe. I can stuff copper scrubbing pads into the riser pipe to make it reflux. I can run 160-175 proof with the reflux, and 130-140 proof without.
I used silicone on my first little SS pot still and it worked well, but I do believe there was some leaching of the essence that took place in the early runs.( that silicone seal is 3 years old and has since "seasoned"). I switched to a pressure cooker and then learned of the squabble about aluminum being bad for you. ( It produced some butt kicking good whiskey and rum however) so just to be safe, I am going back to Stainless Steel 5 gal and a real dryly mixed flour water seal that works perfectly and if it adds any leaching flavor, at least its a grain !! Thanks George!!!
NO silicone! As you discovered it will leach into your product. NO aluminum it will degrade and also leach into your product. Stainless steel and flour paste is the way to go.
I'm almost done with my second still build. Both used pressure canners with the multiple bolts around the top to hold the lid on. I use these because they have a taper seal and don't require a gasket. On this one I used an aluminum piece intended to be a hydraulic piston, and had it bored to accept 1.5" copper tubing, with an upper O-ring, and another at the bottom where it contacts the lid, which was also bored to match. The two bolts that hold the handle on the lid have threaded rods installed and a plate with a hole in it bears down on the aluminum piston assy so that I have metal to metal contact, and the O-ring is compressed for a seal. This allows the 3' piece of 1.5" copper which is my column to be removed, rotated, moved up and down, etc It's quite tight and doesn't move easily. A T at the top of the column reduces to 3/4" copper each way, and a rubber stopper allows my thermocouple to extend down to the T. A short 3/4 copper pipe is soldered to the horizontal outlet and connects to the shotgun condenser with a sharkbite connector. The shotgun condenser begins with 3/4 to mate to the sharkbite, followed by a reducer to 1/2", and a 90 deg elbow, connecting to a 3' piece of 1/2" copper, which has two 3/4 to 1/2 reducing Ts slid on, and a length of 3/4" copper over the 1/2" copper.... as much a possible. Where the 1/2" copper comes out, there is a 45 deg elbow, and a piece of 1/2" copper to discharge the product. The lower reducing T has a garden hose fitting, and the upper just a piece of 1/2" copper going to a hose that fits. This will be heated with a hotplate. The 1.5" copper column will be packed.... or not (reflux or pot), with a hole drilled in the bottom and a piece of copper or stainless wire to keep the packing in. Sharkbite connectors consist of brass, with O-ring seals, and a food grade nylon insert.... that could be removed, as it serves no real purpose. They allow the condenser to be removed easily for cleaning, and are cheap..... at about $10 each. Designed for PEX, they also can be used with copper and CPVC. They grip quite firmly. I've never head of one being used on a still, but they are about the least expensive positive sealing removable joint I know of................ any thoughts or ideas?
By The way, these pressure canners can be had at second hand stores, Salvation Army, Goodwill, etc..... usually for about $20. I have zero concern about aluminum in the pot, though some folks seem to be bothered by it. The first still was a cooperative effort for a friend......... and ended up being his...... now hundreds of miles away. It has distilled countless gallons of whiskey of various types, and was a very basic pot still with a worm type condenser
@@everything.in.a.nutshell Sharkbite is supposed to be lead free. Used in home water systems it must comply with various standards, some of which do not tolerate lead.
I have a 50 & 60 gallon copper pots and a 110 stainless steel one and there is a lot of different between the two kinds I'm a 8 generation shiner and DAMN proud of it..... If you're gonna do it then get after it and be careful 🇨🇱💯
Grandpa used to use copper on all his stills. I as a kid helped him do it. Moonshine was our goal. We made a lot of it. Our still was big and used to make me high smelling it. Keep it copper, or stop using it.
Hey George, all your stuff is awesome as usual, now what you have with this great. You are talking about sealing cookers. You have it there now, while you were at it what about using other stuff like flower and water, heat resistant tape and other good things in there words a video on just sealing a cooker and it’s piping coming off it or have you already got one out there that I’ve missed. Cheers
I've made gaskets that way, but they don't last long. Now day I just use teflon tape on the pot lip, binder clips and have some flour and water standing by for little leaks
Hi, I'm a total newbie, currently distilling with a 3liter copper pot still. I am very frustrated with the size and would like to build my own using a 30 liter Urn, my question is, can I build an extremely simple condensor completely with fittings and pipes and no soldering/brazing? I can drill holes in the lid, I can make the gasket, but I don't have the tools or experience to solder/braze. I'd pretty much coil the condensor pipe through a plastic bucket and circulate the water in the bucket...
Fantastic job George. I would love to see you finish it off as it would make a great tutorial for home distillers like me. I am curious as to what option you would use to attach the column. Perhaps a stainless steel mixing bowl silver soldered or brazed to the lid and then adding a tri-clamp for the column?
@@off-gridhillbillystyle3735 As the saying goes "where there's a will there's a way". Showing what a little creative thinking can do can inspire those who may think it's impossible.
Might I suggest using a product called Dragon Skin from Smooth-on for making your gaskets? It's a food quality RTV silicone that will take extreme heat. I use it to make molds for casting molten pewter. They offer a "trial size" kit.
The problem with those enamel pots is when you cut into them they rust. I know cause I’ve done it. Unless you spray some rust proof spray paint that’s food grade.
Okay. I get your point but realize that we just used what we had laying around to demonstrate how easy it can be to make a still from things you may already have. It may not be possible for everyone to secure stainless steel (which is probably the best material) to do this. Yes, once you break the bond of the coating the metal underneath can and most probably will rust.
Hey George, I tried the method you showed to make the gasket, but unfortunately my lid was a bit different so it didn't work. What I ended up doing was to turn the lid upside down, run tape around the outside to make a dam, then filled that with the silicone. this worked a treat and also bonded to the lid so it doesn't fall off. Just sharing in case anyone else needs an alternate method.
That is what I was thinking, it would be nice for it to be stuck to one of the surfaces.
You can use a cheap alternative to tape or silicone and do what I do as a chef, using flour turned into dough strips to seal the lid. Its used in kitchens for stews or slow braising to keep all them juices in. Hope this helps!
It's not a system that can go more than a single run .. but?! Yeah! And it's 100% NATURAL! Vegan and Organic at it's truest....
Good comment
Also, I'm NOT vegan. And "Organics" in the food industry IS a Joke .. Catch phrases and marketing wank ...
Your seal method - natural ... Natural = good (usually)
@@NJOwens-ep3hf flour is not always organic.
George, I’m a novice distiller and I’m so happy I found your videos. I’ve learned so much from you. Besides being so knowledgeable, you’re extremely entertaining. Thank you!
I've found the easiest reusable seal for those cooking pot lids is to use a section of your condensers water line. Cut a slit the whole length, being careful to keep it straight, and just slip it onto the edge of the lid and clamp it tight. May not hold up to your air pressure test, but really, a still should only run about 5-7 psi. Any more than 10 psi and somethins not right. But I always love to watch you work , George. Any time I need calculations, figures, or details that I tend to forget, this is where I come to find them. All your time and work is greatly appreciated. I've been doing this over 20 years, and I still learn something new from almost every episode. Thank you, and Keep it up.
Something wrong with the still, if it has any measureable pressure, it has an open tube to the atmosphere.
@@grancito2 - Most modern pot stills, yes. I use a modular, hybrid, reflux system with a 2" pipe at a 45, 2lbs of marbles in a sight glass, down to 1/2" pipe into 1/2gal infuser, down to an old style worm coil condenser thats 50' of 3/8 pipe, on top of a standard 15.5gal beer keg. Technically, its "open", but is also quite restricted, and does build up a decent amount of pressure, especially toward the tails. I chase a lot of leaks, but totally worth it when it puts out 3gal of 180+ proof in about 3 hours. I Love the hint of coffee I get from the infuser. (I drop it to 100 proof leave in 3 gal barrels made outta mesquite for #@%. Bottles around 95 proof.
I've been watching you channel for about 3 years. Thank you for all of the attention to detail on how to and what to and not to do. I really appreciate the fails and successes. You are the man brother
Really like the ideas and your homemade ingenuity
Thank you for the tip on the silicone I build a gasket it works great I have a beautiful stainless steel still now and I'm making caramel rum using Werther's original in the Thumper
Holy crap, that was awesome! From the genius clay mold for the gasket to the electric element this is just great:-)>
Thanks
George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Just curious, could you have not used a bike tire inter tube as a gasket?
I watch this gentleman everyday, he is informative, covers allot in a short amount of time, keeps safety in mind and does not confine himself to one way of thinking.
I wonder if they're the Pacific reason he used electricity instead of using the top of a gas stove or a gas burner, for me I would rather use gas I don't know if he used the electricity to keep it from scorching or if gas will scorch it or whatnot but I think I would rather try gas first for myself, that way you do not have to be close to electricity if you have a shed or a rock house that you prefer to brew at. Here in the South it's very illegal and I would hate to get caught with one in my house cuz I'm sure they would try to take my property as bad as they are here
Here in Bulgaria we seal the pot with a thick paste of flour and water, cheap, safe and works every time
This is also how the paste is made to repair classic books when they need to be to re-bound. Glue made from rice is surprisingly strong.
@@tomcruise2313 wow i may have to experiment wirh flour and water
Once thank you for the advice. I'm going to do that.
Here in Australia we do that too!
Thats the popcorn Sutton way
A discarded beer keg and a couple of ports cut in, plus the connections I made in the welding department at the community College got my homemade still up to snuff. But I swear, before I saw this video, I already tried everything you did, on my own. Crazy how great minds think alike.
This is what the corona virus has driven me too. Don’t judge me.
lol, I used to drink.
Well im in south Africa in no alcohol lockdown 1 months now we don't know when it will end so i need to be creative...and you know what mr George said once it's in your blood...i thing i got a new habit 😊
@@peterbillas9131 I'm there too, but I don't have much weed left either, at least I can harvest some dank nuts in a few weeks. Stay strong
I just did this today don't worry 🤣
I gave up drinking for guzzling. 😉😉😉
That was great! What a cool guy…loved the narration.
George,thxs for realizeing that everyone doesn't have all the best tools and cash,,it really grips me when watching a programme and the guy,about ready to go to the last step tells me we need a rocket ship to get spacedust to do the last step and with out it none of the rest will work, Thxs again for the videos and real info that can be used,, gb
Awesome video. Love your energy and enthusiasm
I built a gasket in a similar way, but I used this method: in the lid I made the silicone adhere while I put some soap on the pan, I let the silicone dry a bit and then I inserted the lid so it has a perfect shape of the edge of the pot. The gasket is always attached to the lid while from the pot it comes off easily because of the soap. a big hello!
I'm doing it your way! Also, do I need to put an element in it? My crawfish pot can go right onto the stove! Right?
@@mattpeacock5208 Because of my bad English I don't know if I understand correctly. I try to answer: between the lid and the pot I only put liquid soap (to have a detachment of the seal). The silicone resists the boiling temperature, there is also silicone for "high temperatures". Actually it would be advisable to buy "food grade" silicone but I haven't found it locally.
@@Demymaker thank you for such a quick and clear answer!
@@mattpeacock5208 I'm glad it's useful, it's just inventive!
Really enjoy your videos.
Keep them coming 😎
on my first pot still, it came with a 1/2" stack and i would be running damn near all day, glad I came back for more education before getting another still. Thank you for all the information george!
Hi George, the best cheapest seal is clear food grade rubber hose, the same that’s used for the water flow on the condenser of any still. Just slice the edge and fold over the edge of the pot not the lid. When heated it will mould into a really good seal.
what size of the hose would you recommend?
Sasha in metric about 10 to 15 mm
@@Aleksandr-Herman the rubber hose split down the middle didn't work for me I've had better luck with cheap 1/4 inch weather stripping... I use it on the outside edge of the bowl dome
That was helpful clip ,thanks
what about the gap from the hose not being 1 round piece?
I use a length of soft silicone tubing, cut to the circumference of my pot. Slit open lengthwise and pop the slit over the edge of the pot. Makes a nice rubber cushion and using spring clamps such as bulldog clamps, the lid seals nicely and the gasket can be removed and washed.
when we made silicone gaskets on cars we'd wipe a very thin smear of vasolene on the mating surfaces and then apply a continous bead of silicone sealant to one surface and then bolt the two surfaces until the silicone sealant just begins to bulge, and then we leave it for a few days to cure before retightening. Ive seen food grade pure silicone sealant like CRC food zone. Others say 100% silicone glass /aquarium sealant is safe after it has taken 7 days to set and gas off.
Nice video! cant wait to see the lid finish.
Very cool sir, you teach on a level that you don't have to be a rocket scientist to understand. 👍👍
Hello George. It's not too often I see somebody creative enough to stop me in my tracks. Your concise, funny, great with measurements, and engineering prototypes. Very well done. I look forward to your other videos. Thank you.
Many thanks!
If you cut silicone tubing down the middle and then use silicon radiator tape to combine the two ends, it makes a fantastic diy gasket
You are a fabulous teacher, im blessed to of found you as im at the beginning of my distilling hobby.
I look forward to learning more from you.
Cheers
a inner tube from a bicycle tire works good for a gasket.
Love all your video's, my goto source of home distilling. I'm making this comment as I await my first ever drops of head. I had the same issue with creating a good seal on the pot. I have a 12.5 inch pot so I bought me a 12.5 inch bicycle tire tube. Sliced it open to the ID diameter and after a good cleaning slid it over the lid and it seals great. (black rubber tubel
Great solution
George
Just watched all of your first sweet potato vodka video & thought hmmm I need to figure out a diy still search it first guy to pop up & couldn't be more pleased!
Hey George!...
Great video!
I hope you do one on the column...
Always enjoy your content!
Thanks
i absolutely love your videos. Your knowledge and how you explain it is great! You're chill to the point i gotta watch in 1.75 speed, but that's cool with me!
Good idea with the gaskets, I'm going to do that for my still.
Nice to finally know how to put a gasket on the pot learned more about gaskets than anything about a still step 1 complete
Rtv 650 high temp silicone sealant, food grade. Instead of using it and then sealing it to the lid, only put it around the lid and use your finger to smooth it out. Cure 24 hours max. And for clamps you could use adjustable locking pliers, pretty cheap from walmart, I'd suggest 10 and get an extra 2 just incase. Cheaper than the one you described, but if it ain't broke, don't fix it! Love the videos George, keep em coming!
Great video as always George!
Love it. Keep the information coming.
Thanks OG, I learn alot from your videos.
Use salt dough as a gasket ,1 part flour to 1 part salt to quarter part water use some binder clips ,as it heats the dough gets rock hard ,ran atleast 50 gallons of shine out of a 5 gallon still never had a leak
Enjoyed! Love watching! Great video for folk trying to get in the hobby and save and be safe! As always George thanks for your seemingly infinite knowledge and keep up the awesome videos! Cheers! 🍻
On part 2 will you show us how you wire your plug for the heating element? I know it’s simple but love watching the master!! And thanks for the 3 new videos!!
Absolutely
George
1/2" silicon tubing split down the middle and slipped over the lip of the lid(or pot) and clamp down with small wood clamps works very well...
Great lesson my still had a 3/8” copper pipe for my vapor. Like you said it takes forever. I went a got a 5/8” pipe with fittings to convert mine over. I’m hoping to cut the time in half. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge.
How are the times?
I really like that you show your mess ups as well as your preferred method. A video that only a true trial and eorror..er could appreciate 😄
Love your channel.
I love the water heater element no more cooking on the stove
Love your videos.
Just a thought.... When checking for leaks mix up a squirt bottle with dawn dish soap. Squirt the rim, wait any leaks will start to bubble ;)
0:31 I got this still as a gift. I kept saying no to it and I just wanted to wine but then I was curious and ran it once...now I cant wait to operate again!!
if you add equal parts corn starch and silicone, it will turn into a good putty that you can mold like playdough
I enjoy your videos, and I even don’t drink alcohol . But I enjoy your science explanations.
My thought was that as with refrigeration the 5/8 inch orifice would act like a Venturi and the expansion of the gases or vapor in this case would cool. I thought that this would allow some of the condensed vapor to drip back down which is almost the same as a copper plate. That was my thought maybe you can give me a little more insight. Thanks for getting back to me cliff
I fkn love this guy
It's always nice, to build it by yourself
Thanks for another great video cheers
I use plumbing pipe repair tape. It's extremely stretchy and sticks to itself without adhesive. You just wrap it around the outside of the lid and pot to seal them together. It's quite easy to remove. It can't be re-used, but it's so stretchy that you'll be shocked to see how little you need each time.
I can't recall the name of it off-hand, but I need to buy more soon. I'll try to remember to add it when I do.
Love the video brother! Thanks for sharing, and hope u upload soon
Another source of gasket material is silicone baking sheets. It may be hard to find one large enough to cover the top of your pot though. Cheers.
Very good idea.
Did you install a silicone oring when installing the heating element? Thank you for a tremendously useful channel.
Buying 6 things to make a custom gasket feels like an overwhelming scavenger hunt. Prowling flea markets for used pressure cookware could be less stressful and maybe less time consuming.
Try using silicone tubing, split it with blade, fit over edge of pot rim, Join ends with just enough build up of RTV.
George, the tire pressure valve is good but the place you put it could be a bad spot if you were to try and mount a 2-3 inch pipe column ,, as I remember from the previous videos just made, where still colapesed , if you did that farther away from the center , and then mounted a small ball valve as a pressure relief when done cooking just turn lever on valve and turn heat off , , as you have stated you plan on a dome of some kind you will be cutting a good size hole in the lid, so all I said would not mater,
Hi George. with your lighting you could use a big white board. where the camera lens is. and shoot , the light from the sides would then bounce off onto your face. if it's too much light on your face. you could try a smaller one by the camera. if it's too much light hitting your face. use a smaller one. or not enough light use a bigger one or one on each side of the camera.
You can use water glass made by adding sodium hydroxide to crystal cat litter(silica gel costs about 30 bucks a bag) and water. Add the lye in small portions until you have a super saturated solution. It will immediately crystalize on contact with anything so dilute slightly and brush on a paper gasket both sides. Drop on lid and heat pot. Now this seals head gaskets, cracked heads, and alcohol wont break it down when dried, neither will rtv which in all honest wouldnt hurt anything its used all the time in the food industry only not called rtv its the same thing only approved by the fda to use in food. Kinda like food grade buckets and non food grades all the same dam thing only one costs more.
As a test for leaks you can do what they do when checking your tires. Put it in some soapy water and see if it makes bubbles. then you know if is leaking and where.
Even if you can afford to buy a super cool still, I recommend you build your first still. It helps you better understand how it works and helps you fix issues if they arise.
I use 5 pair of visegrips to seal the top wors great and cheap ones are about 2 dollars a piece hope this helps
love the videos
Does the lid hold down clamps just latch on or do you have to mount with tiny screws ? I can only find the clamps that attach with screws on side of pot. Where can I purchase clamps that just snap on to lid to hold it on ? Thanks.
I've been trying to figure out how I was going to install my heating element into the side of my boiler. (6 Gal stainless pot) I never thought about just putting a nut on the inside! Perfect!! I'm using a 6 gallon stainless pot which has a 13" diameter at the lip. I bought a large stainless bowl that was also a 13" diameter at the lip to use for the dome shaped top. I used a crap ton of Teflon tape around the 13" lips sealing the lid with Harbor Freight plastic clamps. I am going to change this to the method that you used. I cut a 1.75" hole in the bowl and then made an extrusion tool that would extrude the hole to fit a Dernord 2" weld ferrule. From there up it looks pretty much like your 8 Gallon pot still. I made my own shotgun condenser too. However, my first C.O.B. batch tasted like unwashed cow ass. So I went back and watched more videos. Turns out that that should have been my sacrificial run to clean out the still. I can now identify the nasty flavor in the product to be that of soldering flux. Thanks for putting out all the great videos!!
CJ
Unwashed cows ass (LAMO). I can definitely identify with that. I've had fermentations smell like two asses ha, ha.
Good job and keep at it. We learn from others and I really appreciate the comments and information we get back from our community.
Let me know if you ever need any help. I'll do what I can.
George
Thumbs up for unwashed cows ass. I'm going to have to keep that one... LMFAO!!!
I used a silicon cookie mat and cut out the gasket....and I use binder clips to clamp the lid down...works like a charm. I also used leftover silicon mat to make gaskets to seal my riser pipe. I can stuff copper scrubbing pads into the riser pipe to make it reflux. I can run 160-175 proof with the reflux, and 130-140 proof without.
I really like the way you explain things
Thank you George!!
That pot is $59 plus shipping from a Mexican Market, or $79 on AMAZON.
32 dollars at HEB store's in Texas.
Great job George Asia hint make a homemade mason jar Thumper that would be cool a neat little Thumper homemade
I used silicone on my first little SS pot still and it worked well, but I do believe there was some leaching of the essence that took place in the early runs.( that silicone seal is 3 years old and has since "seasoned"). I switched to a pressure cooker and then learned of the squabble about aluminum being bad for you. ( It produced some butt kicking good whiskey and rum however) so just to be safe, I am going back to Stainless Steel 5 gal and a real dryly mixed flour water seal that works perfectly and if it adds any leaching flavor, at least its a grain !! Thanks George!!!
NO silicone! As you discovered it will leach into your product. NO aluminum it will degrade and also leach into your product. Stainless steel and flour paste is the way to go.
I'm almost done with my second still build. Both used pressure canners with the multiple bolts around the top to hold the lid on. I use these because they have a taper seal and don't require a gasket. On this one I used an aluminum piece intended to be a hydraulic piston, and had it bored to accept 1.5" copper tubing, with an upper O-ring, and another at the bottom where it contacts the lid, which was also bored to match. The two bolts that hold the handle on the lid have threaded rods installed and a plate with a hole in it bears down on the aluminum piston assy so that I have metal to metal contact, and the O-ring is compressed for a seal. This allows the 3' piece of 1.5" copper which is my column to be removed, rotated, moved up and down, etc It's quite tight and doesn't move easily. A T at the top of the column reduces to 3/4" copper each way, and a rubber stopper allows my thermocouple to extend down to the T. A short 3/4 copper pipe is soldered to the horizontal outlet and connects to the shotgun condenser with a sharkbite connector. The shotgun condenser begins with 3/4 to mate to the sharkbite, followed by a reducer to 1/2", and a 90 deg elbow, connecting to a 3' piece of 1/2" copper, which has two 3/4 to 1/2 reducing Ts slid on, and a length of 3/4" copper over the 1/2" copper.... as much a possible. Where the 1/2" copper comes out, there is a 45 deg elbow, and a piece of 1/2" copper to discharge the product. The lower reducing T has a garden hose fitting, and the upper just a piece of 1/2" copper going to a hose that fits. This will be heated with a hotplate. The 1.5" copper column will be packed.... or not (reflux or pot), with a hole drilled in the bottom and a piece of copper or stainless wire to keep the packing in.
Sharkbite connectors consist of brass, with O-ring seals, and a food grade nylon insert.... that could be removed, as it serves no real purpose. They allow the condenser to be removed easily for cleaning, and are cheap..... at about $10 each. Designed for PEX, they also can be used with copper and CPVC. They grip quite firmly. I've never head of one being used on a still, but they are about the least expensive positive sealing removable joint I know of................ any thoughts or ideas?
By The way, these pressure canners can be had at second hand stores, Salvation Army, Goodwill, etc..... usually for about $20. I have zero concern about aluminum in the pot, though some folks seem to be bothered by it. The first still was a cooperative effort for a friend......... and ended up being his...... now hundreds of miles away. It has distilled countless gallons of whiskey of various types, and was a very basic pot still with a worm type condenser
This is a goal mine of ideas and practices here. Thanks for sharing
Thoughts on brass/lead content ?
@@everything.in.a.nutshell Sharkbite is supposed to be lead free. Used in home water systems it must comply with various standards, some of which do not tolerate lead.
@@stonetoolcompany3649 thank you
I have a 50 & 60 gallon copper pots and a 110 stainless steel one and there is a lot of different between the two kinds I'm a 8 generation shiner and DAMN proud of it..... If you're gonna do it then get after it and be careful 🇨🇱💯
Grandpa used to use copper on all his stills. I as a kid helped him do it. Moonshine was our goal. We made a lot of it. Our still was big and used to make me high smelling it. Keep it copper, or stop using it.
Great video!
subscribed! thank you for this tutorial
Hey George, all your stuff is awesome as usual, now what you have with this great. You are talking about sealing cookers. You have it there now, while you were at it what about using other stuff like flower and water, heat resistant tape and other good things in there words a video on just sealing a cooker and it’s piping coming off it or have you already got one out there that I’ve missed. Cheers
Cut a circle to fit the pot out of a pizza box and wrap it in several layers of teflon tape makes a nice gasket.
I did something similar. Any cardboard will do and the pfte tape is food safe.
All sounds good.
I've made gaskets that way, but they don't last long. Now day I just use teflon tape on the pot lip, binder clips and have some flour and water standing by for little leaks
Hi, I'm a total newbie, currently distilling with a 3liter copper pot still. I am very frustrated with the size and would like to build my own using a 30 liter Urn, my question is, can I build an extremely simple condensor completely with fittings and pipes and no soldering/brazing? I can drill holes in the lid, I can make the gasket, but I don't have the tools or experience to solder/braze. I'd pretty much coil the condensor pipe through a plastic bucket and circulate the water in the bucket...
Love the. viedos
Informative video thanks
I saw this video in my suggestions . I liked it so much, I subscribed to your channel. And thanks for your info.
I got a smaller ceramic pot with a 1/2 copper line 50 foot long. Hope this works well.
I once talked to a butcher that works for Safeway grocery. He made his still using a home pressure cooker.
Pressure cooker are very easy to convert to still kettle but aluminium content of the cooker gives me some cause for concern.
Good luck finding one that big
Great video
Fantastic job George. I would love to see you finish it off as it would make a great tutorial for home distillers like me. I am curious as to what option you would use to attach the column. Perhaps a stainless steel mixing bowl silver soldered or brazed to the lid and then adding a tri-clamp for the column?
Yes
I used a stainless mixing bowl and attached a 2" tri-clamp. I just found a bowl that had the same lip diameter as my pot.
George,
I have to say, you've went full on techno Hill Billy! LMAO
Nothing wrong with that lol
@@off-gridhillbillystyle3735 As the saying goes "where there's a will there's a way". Showing what a little creative thinking can do can inspire those who may think it's impossible.
@@rtucker0458 Sorry but, some say, where there is a will there is away...I say ,"If there's a will, I want be in it!!! LOL!
Might I suggest using a product called Dragon Skin from Smooth-on for making your gaskets? It's a food quality RTV silicone that will take extreme heat. I use it to make molds for casting molten pewter. They offer a "trial size" kit.
If the enamel paint got flaky around where you drilled, and the paint bits fell into the liquid being distilled, does this cause any issues?
I just use 1/4 “ window weather stripping and it works great and very easy to change when needed. Awesome videos
Holds up to 200 degree temps?
I used a small bicycle Tube as gasket. Works great.
Great videos. You should put a parts list in your description.
There's a slight leak coming from the clamp... how were they mounted and sealed?
Awesome video
Or convert a large pressure cooker from the flea market. It seals already and the condenser can connect where the pressure valve used to be.
The problem with those enamel pots is when you cut into them they rust. I know cause I’ve done it. Unless you spray some rust proof spray paint that’s food grade.
Okay. I get your point but realize that we just used what we had laying around to demonstrate how easy it can be to make a still from things you may already have. It may not be possible for everyone to secure stainless steel (which is probably the best material) to do this.
Yes, once you break the bond of the coating the metal underneath can and most probably will rust.
Just go around the pot 4-5 times with PTFE pipe tape then clamp. Used it for a couple years with out fail and is very cheap!
Really good suggestion I may use it with the split tubing idea...thanks
Cut out a cardboard gasket and wrap it in the PTFE thread tape and that works great.
Would that leach pfas somehow