Converting a beer keg into a home distillation boiler
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- Опубліковано 10 сер 2021
- This is the first video from Planet Moonshine and it is a how-to video on converting a 50L stainless steel beer keg into a still for home distillation.
Our goal at Planet Moonshine is to make spirits such as Whiskey, Gin, and Rum and ask the question: Is this something we can sell, and will people actually buy it?
Here in Spain I operate a craft micro brewery, and I have a license to produce alcohol in all its forms. This allows me to legally distill products and sell them, and yes, pay taxes on those sales.
Many people asked what exact equipment I used...
Here is a list... sorry if some of the links are out of date.
Here are some of the parts I ordered… not sure I have a full list any more.
Element - You need the 220V version for UK or 110V for USA. I used the 3Kw model. it heats 30L of wash to boiling in just about an hour.
www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Cleaning port - I used the 114mm size
www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Drain port - I used the 50.5mm size
www.aliexpress.com/item/40008...
Ball valve - 50.5 size
www.aliexpress.com/item/40010...
Column - I used the 3 inch size
www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
I also bought a 3” sight glass which I use at the base of the column and a 2 to 3inch tapered adapter The sight glass is the 76mm x Ferrule 91 item.
www.aliexpress.com/item/40011...
Can’t find the link to that one, but its a standard adapter 76mm to 50.5.
Plus a few spare tri clamps and gaskets in 2inch and 3inch as spares.
Please support the channel on Patreon if you like my content!
www.patreon.com/PlanetMoonshi...
Thank you. Very informative.
Fantastic video!
Fantastic Video, thank you so much, can't wait till the next ones
Very nicely done PM. I will do just that, keep on chillin as I do distilline too.
Fortunately I’ve got a boilermaker/ welder as a neighbour. Mick did an excellent job using an arc welder with stainless rods. We also cut a 4” hole in the centre top of the keg and I use a stainless 4”/ 2” reducer so I can clean the inside and also attached my reflux column.
Welding is a great solution if you know a man who can! Interesting approach to combine the cleaning opening with the column mount - nice tip. Cheers man.
Nice video.
Thank for your time.
For making this video
Great work. Thanks. Very useful tips.
Very informative video!
Thanks for the great video.
Great vid. Been looking for ages to see how to fix that element
Thank you for this video, you have me beginning to believe that I could do this.
Nice work brother.
You did a fine job sir
Excellent instructional video thanks man 👍
I'm late to the vidja but it sure was a darn great vidja!! Thanks for sharing!! I was just gifted a keg... I'll be doing the same conversion.
Very nice job , wish you all the best
Thank you! You too!
Thank you very much you made the whole process look so easy that l am going to try to make one myself.
Good luck Harry. You will enjoy the hobby I am sure.
very Nice.... Thanks Buddy
Really useful video. Thanks. I hadn’t been aware of a tri clamp heating element before now. I suppose really it eliminates the need to drill the bigger access hole in the top that’s you’d need for a standard immersion heater 👍
Hi James, the large hole in the top is really important for cleaning. During stripping runs lots of crud gets stuck on the walls and needs to be cleaned with a brush. The tri clamp just makes life easier for maintenance than say, a flanged nut fitting.
Muchas gracias
Love your work man.
Can’t wait for your next instalment.
Eager to see you produce that final product 🍻
Cheers George. Next video should be out this weekend. It's whiskey time!
F'ing AWESOME!!!
Great presentation ! Keep up the good work. Where can the parts, (heating element and ports) be acquired ?
Nice thanks
Nice work, very useful instructional video! Interested to see the column. I run a T500 on a 25L boiler, wouldn't mind stepping up to a 50L keg with a 2 or 3 inch column
Go for it Martin. Remember the column rule of thumb, height for purity, width for speed.
Absolutely no doubt you will be able to make top-shelf vodka, gin, and other spirits. If your whiskey has to taste the same year over year though you need to be able to age enough barrels to blend them to taste. If you can accept a range of qualities in small-batch whiskeys and you have the patience to age them properly then you will get all sorts of good to excellent results. Looking forward to your videos. Nice when you can afford Starret :).... For small holes, you can use a punch and die, a hole saw, or a tapered bit. Quality of tooling is less important when you are only cutting 1 or 2 holes. Cutting oil and patience on the big holes help. If you are making a really big hole. Welding the ferrule first can make life easier. Upside down can let you use the 2" on the bottom for a drain hole. Silver Solder and an acid flux make brazing with Mapp gas doable although on the big holes it can be fussy. If you are doing this once then the price of solder, map gas, torch, flux, cutters is the same as hiring a pro to tig weld it.
Thanks Robert. I used punch and die on my old homebrew pots but the keg was so much thicker I did not have the confidence to try it. I have hunch that I may be building a bigger boiler in the future so the starret cutters are an investment. Yeah, I'm doing a bunch of stripping runs at the moment for a whiskey run. Some oak barrels on the way, but whiskey is a longer project 😉 and I am not planning on rushing it.
I would love to see you run some moonshine in the keg after you build it .l think you done a very good job.👍
Hi Harry, check out my other videos and you will see plenty of Moonshine running in it. 😁
There's no doubt that it'll make top shelf liquor, wonderful job. I'm actually in the midst of outfitting my own keg,same plan as yours ,except I didn't know that I could solder it so easily and that happens to be very helpful to me
Cheers Adam. Yes it's easy enough with the right silver solder rods and a hot torch. Good luck my friend.
@@planetmoonshine6223 Absolutely! I was shopping for a machinist to help me but all the stuff that you used is readily available for me. Very helpful to me
I work at a brewery this interests me
Enjoyed the video, nice share ! Found whilst looking into building my own still, but just for water! I had the same ideas, but had not considered a cleaning port , so thanks.
One point , if you are looking at producing these for sale ,invest in a TIG welder! As you most likely know, our barrels are 316 stainless steel, whilst silver solder will work ,I doubt it would meet the medical and food grade certification required.304 & 316 are the most commonly encountered ST/ST grades, with the amount of chromium differing between grades , 316 having more chromium and therefore better resistance to corrosion.
A few friends use the eng/Chinese TIG brand “R TEC “ very reasonable price and all 3 claim ease of use , one uses his daily for five years !
I have no connection to the brand and use KEMPPi TIG myself.
Best of luck in the future , may pop in for a hello next time I’m over ( I spend time in Galicia )
SALUT ! SLAINTÉ! and SKÅL !
Excellent Video !!
Could you post some recommendations for the element etc from RS Components or somewhere in the UK instead of Ali Express ? Have tried a lot of parts from Ali in the past in various projects and never had good results
thanx its been helpful
Glad you liked it. I did another recently on converting a 30L keg as well.
I like the heating elament
Easy element cleaning for dirty/lumpy washes 😜
Interested to know if that heating element burns the mash.
You could also use aluminium alloy rods (I can't remember the name of them), to secure the ferrules to the barrel.
Thanks mate
What kind of column and condenser are you going to build for it? Will you be adding a thumper ? For whiskies, a thumper can be useful for stripping runs. It allows distilling the less than clear mash without fear of scorching. Clears go in the boiler and the cloudy mash goes in the thumper.
Hi Corene, check out my video on pot vs reflux to find out 😉 ua-cam.com/video/f5ubAl1-Y3M/v-deo.html
Thank you for an interesting video.
Looking forward to the next one.
How does a regular tri-clamp fit on the beer keg?
After removing the keg head and spear, the remaining lip is the size of a 2inch tri clamp. It just works!
A regular tri clamp gasket needs 1 side of the gasket trimmed off. It is a flat surface and the gasket has a "V" on each side. I used a belt sander until it was flat.
Hello thanks for the video can you tell me what size is your clean out (the lage one on top)
that you installed ? Thanks
I used the 114mm size, just under 4.5 inches, but it could have been bigger up to 5 inches. After that you are running out of room on top of the keg. Measure your biceps as that's what needs to fit. 🤣
Show. More. About the cooling. Of the shing
Nice job my man, just curious how you add column to it, as doesn’t look like a triclamp on the top
It takes a standard 2inch triclamp with an adapted seal. Look at my video on column types for details.
What size are the clamps
I'm actually making a still from a beer keg at the moment, I am making a reflux still, I just need to weld a few more bits to the keg, and make the control unit.
Glad to hear you are taking the plunge! Regarding the SCR, its REALLY useful to have a volt and amps meter in the circuit. It helps you adjust the power more precisely, and thus make notes on what power works best for running the still faster or slower.
@@planetmoonshine6223 thanks, I will get myself a meter.
Thank you. I thought the soldering would be harder. Good luck on your future endeavours.
Hi Lawrence hope all is well with you, I have only recently discovers you're channel some great content pal, if possible could you provide links for all the fittings in the build of this video please 👍
Here are some of the parts I ordered… not sure I have a full list any more.
Element - You need the 220V version for UK. I used the 3Kw model. it heats 30L of wash to boiling in just about an hour.
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001580417097.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.ecfa7fb5X1YhtX
Cleaning port - I used the 114mm size
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001544641059.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.14124c4dpwTr7E
Drain port - I used the 50.5mm size
www.aliexpress.com/item/4000882825402.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.58466d500KIqdB
Ball valve - 50.5 size
www.aliexpress.com/item/4001000361063.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.c85d4e45Wnr6hk
Column - I used the 3 inch size
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001897332734.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.7.7b9ff98cenqg59
I also bought a 3” sight glass which I use at the base of the column and a 2 to 3inch tapered adapter The sight glass is the 76mm x Ferrule 91 item.
www.aliexpress.com/item/4001162849060.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.14124c4dpwTr7E
Can’t find the link to that one, but its a standard adapter 76mm to 50.5.
Plus a few spare tri clamps and gaskets in 2inch and 3inch as spares.
how do you regulate the temperature? is there a control on the heating element?
Yes, there is an SCR used to control power going to the element - I discuss it the next video in this series on distillation columns.
I have viewed many of the videos online related to this subject, your video is in my opinion one of the best I have seen. One question that I have for you is "what size and diameter brazing rod did you use" your answer would be much appreciated.
In regard to the comment Scott Goodpasture made related to the inability to run Propane Torch on a Mapp gas cylinder this is incorrect, I have a torch which I change the gas bottles for various applications regularly between Mapp and Propane,
The rods I used were about 30cm (12 inches) long and 3mm (1/8") diameter, but I think that's probably not too important compared to the right solder and flux. 😁
@@planetmoonshine6223 Many thanks for your timely reply, I meant to ask you on my first request, did you use long weld neck tri clamp fittings.
@@edwardgould47 I used regular weld ferrules. The length of the neck was about 3cm on most of them.
@@planetmoonshine6223 once again many thanks for your reply. I am looking forward to many more of your informative videos, Kind Regards.
whats the next video tho? how do u power or adjust the heating element voltage?
Take a look at this video about columns. ua-cam.com/video/f5ubAl1-Y3M/v-deo.htmlsi=hUmCTNdh6cryfhfL I discuss power control at the 20 minute mark.
Before watching this video i was sure i would have to hire a welder to fit the fittings on the keg. So that's a relief that i can solder it. Now the hurdle will be drilling the 4 inch hole in the top without annoying my neighbors. i bet that is loud, especially the angle grinding work.
Dremel is quieter than angle grinder and well suited to the job, but it does eat the little grinding discs.
What type heating elements do you use and a parts list would be MOST EXCELLENT!
It is the Dernord brand, 3kw element I bought from ali express complete with tri clamp fittings. Be sure to buy one that suits your voltage, in Spain its 220v.
Fantastic work, congratulations. Do you happen to make some for sale too?
Woukd t that hole cap unscrew and come out as one unit
can't use a propane torch on mapp gas. The orifice is different
Thanks for the input Scott. My research suggests that the opening on the torch head is slightly different on a dedicated map-pro torch, but a propane torch will still work, albeit not quite as well. There is no damage to the propane torch head btw. This info came from the tech support team at bernz-o-matic. If they were truly incompatible the mapp cylinders would not have the same threading so it would be impossible to connect it to a propane torch.
Why not drill a second hole in the rim on the opposite side to the first one, take a pin-spanner and unscrew the whole valve, instead of destroying the seal?
You could do that, I didn't think of it. You still have to relieve the pressure.
What size element did you use? Thank you
I used a 3kw 240v element.
@@planetmoonshine6223 I’m surprised the heating element doesn’t scorch your mash.
@Johnny Nesper never has, and I have done some pretty lumpy mashes!
So are y’all selling these? If so, how much do they cost?
Sorry Joe, this is strictly a DIY thing, I don't sell them.
I'm a drayman and have been given a few kegs,how do I de pressure them please??
The easiest way is to beg or borrow an old keg head, there is a one way valve in the connector that enters at 45 degrees (the gas line). Unscrew the connector, pull out the black rubber one way valve. Now when you put the keg head on, the gas will vent. Waste beer and gas will also exit the top connector, so a short length of beer line doubled over will stop that. If you can't get your hands on one, it can be done with a screw driver, but it's messy. Force your flat head screwdriver into the rubber seal and under it. You need to depress the central button so use the screwdriver as a lever. Gas and waste beer will exit but you will end up covered in it!! 😄 🤣 😂 an old damp cloth over the top may shield you from some of it.
@@planetmoonshine6223 you sir are a star! I'll have to ask the brewery if I can mabye borrow a one,if not I'll get the tools out and get ready to be covered in old beer ,😂. Do you buy or sell the parts to convert the keg into a still? Sorry for the questions this early bud 😁. Thank you for your reply! Your video is the best I've found on UA-cam, definitely subbed to you mate 🤟
@@wasterdnb sorry mate, I don't sell the bits, but you can easily get them off ali express
@Waster Dnb, Lay the keg ON IT'S SIDE. Then lever in a screw driver in and leave it.
Gas will vent out without covering you in old beer dregs. Next day stand it up and remove the spear.
Cheers!
@@BigEdsGuns great suggestion!
What the name of the heating element
It is the Dernord brand, 3kw element I bought from ali express complete with tri clamp fittings. Be sure to buy one that suits your voltage, in Spain its 220v.
How many watts is the heating element?
It is a 3kw element. Here in Spain it is about the max you can expect to draw from a regular wall socket.
@@planetmoonshine6223 thank you!
Using silver with Flux is still called brazing.
Dude, you are probably right. And Eskimos have 100 words for snow.
Much cheaper and easier to use a lower temp solder like Staybrite (about 4% silver) or Staybrite * (about 6%). No need for heating to red and all that scorching. Just gotta use the right flux, StayClean liquid flux. In fact with that flux you can use normal lead free plumbing solder, it's not quite as mechanically strong so better for things that won't be holding weight, but much cheaper of course. Silver is expensive, I see no reason to use a higher content than necessary.
Can't get staybrite in Spain. Normal solder doesn't like stainless even with good flux
Pardon me… would you happen to have a coaster?
Yeah, with a hole in the middle.
Don’t no if you still look at the comments but links to get the stuff and names of the lid because you won’t find it look up lid and you look up vband and only exhaust ones come up nothing bigger nuff please reply if you still read these comments thanks but hope that helps
Look up "tri clamp fuerrel" and the size you want.
Here is a list... sorry if some of the links are out of date.
Here are some of the parts I ordered… not sure I have a full list any more.
Element - You need the 220V version for UK or 110V for USA. I used the 3Kw model. it heats 30L of wash to boiling in just about an hour.
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001580417097.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.ecfa7fb5X1YhtX
Cleaning port - I used the 114mm size
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001544641059.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.14124c4dpwTr7E
Drain port - I used the 50.5mm size
www.aliexpress.com/item/4000882825402.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.58466d500KIqdB
Ball valve - 50.5 size
www.aliexpress.com/item/4001000361063.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.c85d4e45Wnr6hk
Column - I used the 3 inch size
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001897332734.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.7.7b9ff98cenqg59
I also bought a 3” sight glass which I use at the base of the column and a 2 to 3inch tapered adapter The sight glass is the 76mm x Ferrule 91 item.
www.aliexpress.com/item/4001162849060.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.14124c4dpwTr7E
Can’t find the link to that one, but its a standard adapter 76mm to 50.5.
Plus a few spare tri clamps and gaskets in 2inch and 3inch as spares.
@@planetmoonshine6223 thanks dude I looked for links last time but couldn’t find them. this will do the job thanks mate there all there now 😲
Hello
It's Emil
I wish I could find a keg
To convert to a still
Most beer companies just tell you no,we plant 6 row barley for feed
But why must I just feed my grain to animals,I thought,why can't I enjoy it in different ways,help please
Yes, I understand your challenge finding kegs. They cost approximately 150 euros to buy new, so most breweries will not give that away. Look for a closed brewery or pub, they may sell one to you cheaply. The alternative is to buy a purpose built still either on ali express or from a reputable still manufacturer. At least then you don't have to convert it.
Everything is going gangbusters. I’m using a boka head with 58 lts of sugar wash which produces 21 lts. Of 40 % abv
All the kegs in my area are aluminum
That's unfortunate, ally is less common, but was popular in the trade for a while when the price of stainless steel went up. Good luck.
Should’ve had it welded.
Agree welding is better, but soldering works and I can do it myself very cheaply.
shouldn't the heater have a thermostat
No, it would be counter productive. During distillation the temperature slowly rises as the volatile alcohol boils away at a lower temperature than water. The rate of change differs depending on the alcohol content of the liquid in the keg. I have seen setups using a PID to control the element, but it's overkill. You just need to hook the element to an SCR to control power, and use a thermometer in the vapor path to show distillate temperature. Full power to reach boiling point then reduce power to keep a slow boil in the keg.
Only one problem with getting stainless steel that hot is now after you finish soldering you will have to pickle and passivate the heat affected area or else it will end up rusting because you removed all the chromium on the surface of the stainless steel that gives it it's corrosion protection. There are a few products on the market that will take care of this issue relatively inexpenssive like CitriSurf 77 Plus Stainless Steel Rust Remover and Passivation Cleaner. Costs around $30 bucks US. You just spray it on letting it sit for about 15-30 minutes and then wash off with fresh water and dry with an absorbant rag and that's it. You are done.
That's a good suggestion for preventing problems, but bear in mind that any acid will passivate stainless. I assume by its name that citrisurf uses citric acid.. I always have peracetic acid on hand so I use that. The inside will be passivated during the vinegar run, but it's worth spraying with a weak acid around the outside and just letting it dry, then rinsing with water. Cheers mate.
@@planetmoonshine6223 that product is not as weak as you think. If it’s not removed it will damage the metal. And depending on how hot you get the stainless will depend on how strong of an acid solution you will need to correctly passivate it. If you are not constantly using the still and you have not correctly passivate the heat effected zone, it will start to rust. But you do you bubb. Cheers Mate.
U r wasting tym of others too..
You should put flux on the metal before heating to avoid oxidation. This is Sodering 101! You do not know what youre doing.
There is a letter L in Soldering. This is spelling 101. You do not know what you are doing. But you do it how you want. I hope you enjoy your own still.