Enjoyed these videos on sharpening end mills. While noticing your cautions on covering and protecting these expensive milling machines from the deadly effects of grinding dust, I thought I would do all of this on an old radial arm saw that I have little use for. These can be found for cheap at garage sales, and can be set to cut just about any angle one could want. As you have pointed out, an indexing fixture and some means of feeding the tool and rotating the flutes is all that is needed. Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge! Cheers,
Thank you for the video. It's nice to see machines getting used to their full potential. Lots of useful ideas. Pallet wrap (as I call it),that clear stretch plastic wrap they sell in rolls is absolutely awesome and cheap for grit proofing machines but sparks MELT it pdq.
Holy crap I almost went and grabbed my face shield when that stone started spinning up lmao. All kidding aside great video series and thanks for the info. You made it look easy to do, but I guess if you've already smoked an endmill you don't have much to lose by trying. Thanks, Ian Little
I used to do similar on my milling machine and it worked well. To protect my mill I used "sticky mats" . I spread a thin layer of grease on cardboard shapes and this trapped and contained the abrasive dust. Simply bag and bin after the job is done or they get too contaminated.. Best thing is not just how effective it is but also how cheap,any old grease will do,the stickier the better!. I bought a tub of out of date grease for pennies just for this purpose. I also found washing all exposed areas of the mill with brake cleaner so that nothing could stick to any exposed oil. A clean and good lube after is best policy.
Cup wheels need to be trued and dressed as well and you will find the finish will be a lot better when it has been done.As part of that I would do something with the washer holding the wheel on the arbour as well.It has a mile of runout at the moment.(see 5.10 on the video). Keep up the good work though I do enjoy these movies.
Yes, I have a shop made guard, but cant shoot video with it installed, camera was the only thing in the line of fire, see the risks I take for you guys? Thanks for the comment!
That is the roughest , slowest sharpening job I ever saw . Need to grind on the flute with the support finger under it . Dress that wheel please it's to wide on corner
Enjoyed these videos on sharpening end mills. While noticing your cautions on covering and protecting these expensive milling machines from the deadly effects of grinding dust, I thought I would do all of this on an old radial arm saw that I have little use for. These can be found for cheap at garage sales, and can be set to cut just about any angle one could want. As you have pointed out, an indexing fixture and some means of feeding the tool and rotating the flutes is all that is needed. Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge! Cheers,
Thank you for the video. It's nice to see machines getting used to their full potential. Lots of useful ideas. Pallet wrap (as I call it),that clear stretch plastic wrap they sell in rolls is absolutely awesome and cheap for grit proofing machines but sparks MELT it pdq.
Holy crap I almost went and grabbed my face shield when that stone started spinning up lmao.
All kidding aside great video series and thanks for the info. You made it look easy to do, but I guess if you've already smoked an endmill you don't have much to lose by trying.
Thanks,
Ian Little
I used to do similar on my milling machine and it worked well. To protect my mill I used "sticky mats" . I spread a thin layer of grease on cardboard shapes and this trapped and contained the abrasive dust. Simply bag and bin after the job is done or they get too contaminated.. Best thing is not just how effective it is but also how cheap,any old grease will do,the stickier the better!. I bought a tub of out of date grease for pennies just for this purpose. I also found washing all exposed areas of the mill with brake cleaner so that nothing could stick to any exposed oil. A clean and good lube after is best policy.
Cup wheels need to be trued and dressed as well and you will find the finish will be a lot better when it has been done.As part of that I would do something with the washer holding the wheel on the arbour as well.It has a mile of runout at the moment.(see 5.10 on the video).
Keep up the good work though I do enjoy these movies.
Nice instuction😀
I don't know if you are subscribed to S V Seaker but it looks like you've got a SRD (spinning rock of death) going on there.
Yes, I have a shop made guard, but cant shoot video with it installed, camera was the only thing in the line of fire, see the risks I take for you guys?
Thanks for the comment!
Shadon HKW
what a guy!
That is not right , I was a tool and cutter grinder . You trying to grind gash in that endmill? Bearing worn bad must get lousy finish
Did i hear some Breaking Benjamin in the background?
New spindle anyone?
Sounds like the bearing is worn, and runout large
That is the roughest , slowest sharpening job I ever saw . Need to grind on the flute with the support finger under it . Dress that wheel please it's to wide on corner