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Fast and easy how to do front shocks strut no special tools
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- Опубліковано 25 тра 2024
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tips and tricks inside this video hopefully help you
don't forget get your hands dirty
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Due to factors beyond the control of Bodgit And Leggit Garage, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Bodgit And Leggit Garage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Bodgit And Leggit Garage recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Bodgit And Leggit Garage, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained
I've been looking for months and months for a video showing how to proprly tap on someone's window and here it is! Many thanks Leon! 😜😊👍
Around me they use battering rams.
@@hardworker8030 🤣🤣
Great video Leon, Certainly don't envy you doing mobile when it's raining 90% of the time, nice feeling when the drop links undo and re tighten without too much grief.
just to note on your wipers on the windscreen near the bottom you will see a cross either side that is where the wipers rest.
Thanks Leon. I went straight onto autodoc to get the assembled struts and out of stock fkrs lol. Near 500e though. Great tip on the vice grips for the links. They are a nightmare
Like those parrot nose locking plyers. I have always used small normal locking plyers. By clening ther threads and taking my time I have always been able to save the drop links. Spray greas also helps drag the nut past any junk you faile to remove beforehand.
On a citreon c4 there are 3 bolts holding the top bearing in place. Also the wiper motors have to come off to get access.
I've just had two new shocks and top mounts on my 2007 Mondeo as this knocking and rattling became unbearable. Garages couldn't pinpoint the noise at first but last week they finally found some wet shocks. £410 later, the car is smooth and quiet again.
can you get rid of that rain please for next week we are coming over to the green land and I use Auto doc sometimes and we do have a parrot nose pliers where did you get that ratchet from and what's the name of it
thanks for the video
Just need a video to see if you can do the wheel bearing without a garage
Hi Leon do you have a video of a 52plate freelander td4 rear wheel bearing remove and refit new. Thanks for a reply
the best of the uk Capitan mechanic
only an irish man just put a brick through the window ill hear you then lollol , great as always leo
looked on autodoc for my focus, 113 a side not bad
when you remove the strut from the front wheel hub assembly does the camber setting have to be reset ? .
The camber is not adjustable on this vehicle
Btw the thumbnail is brilliant
Lol thanks
@@bodgitandleggitgarage
He's right about tapping the window with something hard, I always use a key stem. it works. If you want to wake somebody up just swing two bottles together gently, it makes a very harsh shrill sound,again it works !
I notice you dont use a torque wrench for some things. When are torques important and when are they not important?
I'm not trying to be a smart arse, I'm just inexperienced and curious.
You definitely wanna torque internal engine parts & road wheels. I also like to torque plastic filter housings & spark plugs.
As for steering, brakes & suspension, you get to know, through experience, how tight things need to be.
Also, consider the diameter of the bolt you're tightening.
Boom
Sorted
Btw don’t you ever get to see the sun???
Lots here in California
We just have a lot of slimy,drab, rusted politicians…..
Yes we can Sun about 3hr every 5yr lol
We had sun before you came over !
Why are you replacing the shock as well, and not just replaceig the top mounts and maybe the springs?
I get its a lot simple to build it up in the workshop and take it out to the job.
You miss the point, it's sold like that, ready to go, no risky spring removal needed. The labour involved is less than carefully removing everything. If you've seen a real spring removal gone wrong, you'll know why. If the shock had been replaced by anyone decent previously they'd have likely recommended changing the mount anyway. So you could pay twice within a couple of months by only replacing the mount with the real risk the shock or spring will go if they haven't been replaced previously.
Now springs are bad enough at the best of times, let alone on the roadside, Imagine changing the spring and it flies into traffic, flies off and hits someone near by etc, or a nice simple complete strut with no risk, take your pick.