StudMark Stud Finder (My Favorite!) - geni.us/kCLBX Klein Tools Circuit Breaker Finder - geni.us/vnk0ujr Klein Tools 15-in-1 Screwdriver - geni.us/WQUnyaR Knipex Hybrid Wire Strippers - geni.us/uVWn Klein Tools RT250 - geni.us/rS4mlwJ Southwire Voltage Tester (with Flashlight!) - geni.us/EIcTOsV Southwire Smart Box - geni.us/ddcJ4nz Insurance Survey Feedback (Thanks For The Help!) - n6ybsxp0y7y.typeform.com/to/I9U8iLnm DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
For some reason, the link to the circuit breaker finder is jumping to the Amazon store in Mexico. Issue could be on my end, but wanted to share in case it’s an unintentional link error that’s causing it to go to a specific country instead of whatever a viewer’s native country is.
I live in a town house and your method doesn't work for me as I don't have a basement and I want to add an outlet on the left side of one of the walls in my garage. Such a shame as this looked like a good method.
I like mine vertical or horizontal. As long as they’re all the same on all the plates. Not all the hell over. Direction isn’t as important long as their all the same
@@heysaras In my 2 story home a good 3/4 of my first floor has a room directly above it making getting to the attic very difficult without cutting into the walls.
Excellent video with links to all the tools and supplies used. I greatly appreciate having the links to the new tools especially. I'm definitely going to get the StudMatk finder and Klein ratcheting tool. Thanks for the great video.
While working alone and needing to identify breaker that is associated with an outlet - plug a radio into the outlet and turn up the volume. While switching off breakers and radio can no longer be heard, then breaker associated with the outlet can be be located. This is a quick solution and does not require special tools. However AC outlet should still be tested with a meter to ensure it is no longer powered, before work commences.
easy to do when you have access via basement/crawlspace. Options in Phoenix area are run a lot of cable up to attic and drill any firestops.. or bore horizontally through studs and fish it through. Post-tension slabs and no basements here.
@@ChuckReynolds Trouble is it’s usually at a customers house and I’m not cleaning someone’s attic. I was able to use his method at my condo with coax and a cable outlet. The prior owner just drilled a hole in the wood floor … Yeech. 🤢🤮
Measuring the distance from where the coax is at the plate upstairs to where you want to be and then use that in the basement would save drilling though the carpet.
Drilling through the carpet can be disastrous. Some carpets are woven and the yarn can wrap itself around the drill bit. Before you know it the yarn has pulled across the room and you need to replace the carpet.🤬
Also, doing this is necessary…it’s only partially to get a good measure laterally…the IMPORTANT part is to be SURE you are drilling into the wall cavity and not into the room 😭
Scott have you used the stud finders from Franklin Sensors? Dunno which model I have, but I picked it up because it can see past thicker walls. All my walls and ceilings are 3/4" hardwood shiplap style ... and then they wallpapered the entire house as the finished surface. (I never need to use wall anchors or find studs to hang pictures ... ) They have a horizontal line of LEDs. You can "see" the stud coming into the center of the device. It's for that reason I also use the Pass & Seymour old work outlet boxes because the screws and rear flaps are long enough to clear the thick walls. The standard Carlon or whatever don't work. Also a fan of the Legrand products. The Adorne line is fun. For that Southwire box I find it helpful to start flush or just proud of the drywall because the angled screws always pull the box into the wall cavity.
I have seen the Franklin Sensors and seems like people really like their stud finders. I just like the small size of the StudMark but I do have 1/2" drywall on my properties. In your situation have the Franklin or similar makes a lot of sense. Those Pass and Seymour old work boxes are nice and worked well on a home I used to own which had thick plaster walls. I have not messed with the Adorne much but I do see them every time I am strolling through Menards electrical section. I am sure that product will make it on a video sooner or later. Good tip on the Southwire smartbox and it does take a little practice to get those boxes to land flush. Those better screws have helped a lot to get a secure hold and no chance of stripping out the mounting screws. I appreciate all the great feedback!
Like all of your videos, great information. I need to do a pass through from the exterior wall to the inner wall about 4 or 5 inches just going through siding and sheet rock so that I can connect my portable solar panel to my power bank in the kitchen to run my fridge. Wife won't let me do it because she does not want insects coming in. Maybe you could a video so that I can show her that it is ok. It does not help that I am all thumbs. Great video.
I hate the thought of drilling holes in the floor. Make your drywall opening first and then drill down into the basement using a flex-shaft installers bit!
Great video, love them all. you have given me the confidence to do diy electrical in my home. Do you have the links for the faceplates you used for the outlets ?? the jumbo one in particular ??
For sure, you can take a measurement or 2 and usually hit the right spot. Drilling the subfloor just gives you a higher percentage shot of getting the hole in the right spot.
It is very similar to this but you should be able to actually see the wall top plate in the attic. Locating the desired bay to run the romex can be a bit tricky but I usually use existing romex, vent lines, vents, etc. to try and get my location.
Great video, my only question is whether you ever run into so-called "multi-wire branch circuits" where there are two hot wires of different phases (A and B phase) which share one neutral wire as return current? My 1959 house uses these on almost every circuit but did not have the circuit breakers linked together (as is current code), so when I started doing DIY, I nearly got shocked (caused a big spark) twice when the breaker for the circuit I was working on had been located and shut off (and tested to show there was no current), but in those circuits there still can be current from the other phase returning on the white neutral wire. My point is that these "MWBC's" were widely used in parts of the U.S. for decades and require a bit of sleuthing to find if the circuit breakers aren't locked together. DIYer beware. In a nutshell, if you have an older house, remove your panel cover and look where the wires leave your box on their journey through the home. If any of the conduits have two hot (either two black or black and another color) but only one white neutral wire (shared neutral), then follow those hots back to the breakers they connect to, and it should either be a dual breaker or two individual breakers locked together so that you can only turn them both on/off at the same time. After nearly getting shocked, I looked into it and found it "shocking" how common these circuits are in my part of the midwest. They are a pain, also, when you need to install a GFCI outlet or breaker as those often won't work properly in a shared-neutral circuit.
7:19 isn't there already a 3/4" hole near the top of the joist you can use? I know you want to put a hole as near to the center as you can, but since that hole is already there...
When installing the adjustable outlet box, ( ~11:21) and when replacing the original screws, exactly what type of screws are so-called “general construction screws”? Are they simply wood screws (in the case of wooden studs)? I like the suggestion and the rationale, but am unclear on just what alternative screws are recommended. Thanks
27 днів тому
Hi, for this job did you use the wago 221 32A (WAG221-415) or 41A (WAG221-615) ? I want to add a new electric socket and wonder which wago 221 I should use. Thanks!
That does not look like a TR receptacle which wouldn't meet code in residential. Get the rest of it isn't code but if you are changing things out, it is generally a good idea to do so with things that meet current requirements.
TRs fail on me, and it becomes very frustrating when not able to plug things in. I replaced the receptacles with TR and now have to replace them again.
Is it safe to do this method more than once?...suppose you connected to an existing outlet and made a new one, could you then extend using the same method for the new outlet? Just getting comfortable with electric work
Insurance: City lot, 900-1000 sq ft I pay 95CAD (67USD)/month for home owners insurance; property valued at $200,000 (140,000USD) Included in that monthly cost is flood insurance (I live near a river, but the property is significantly higher then the surrounding area) I also have a $5/month add-on (included in that) for the Wife's SOHO business insurance to protect her belongings (up to 10,000 of her own equipment; in case of theft/burglary/etc). I live in Canada. 👍
I'm preparing to add electrical outlets to my exterior walls that are plaster. I don't believe there is any traditional studs behind it, do you have any recommendations? My main bedroom having 1 outlet is a real bummer
That is also a good option and considered actually going through the installation of a 4x4 metal junction box on the floor joist but decided to focus in on this option. Thanks for the feedback.
Project idea: add a non-switched outlet to a switched circuit? I need to add an outlet outside (under soffet) and the closest line is a switched porch light. Can I use that same line but not switched to keep that outlet on?
Is there a place to find how best to do this on an outside insulated load bearing wall. Everyone is doing this. Which is so easy so I don’t blame them. How about doing something original and hard?
Probably to late for this to be seen, but I would love to see some DIY electrical projects that use conduit instead of Romex. My house has all it's electric in conduit, and I would love to learn how to work with that. If anyone has any suggestions I would love to hear them.
Chicago-area resident, by chance? All conduit for me, too. I'm about to add outlets to my unfinished basement, so conduit should be easy to do. Thankfully there are enough outlets in the finished living space that I shouldn't have to mess with adding more.
*WARNING* Drilling through the carpet can be disastrous. Some carpets are woven and the yarn can wrap itself around the drill bit. Before you know it the yarn has pulled across the room and you need to replace the carpet.🤯
Good call, and I should have been a little more clear. The drill bit is actually off the edge of the carpet and drilling under the baseboard so if you are careful you should not have issues snagging the carpet.
I better way to drill a locating hole with cutting a coat hanger or similar wire. The cut end is sharp enough to make it though some drywall/floor. Much smaller hole. And in this case just measuring would have been better but he's just showing a method of locating
I’ve got a basement but none of my main floor outlets are supplied from below like yours are. And not from above either. Outlets are not 14 gauge. Light switches are 14. Outlets are 12 gauge.
Even if your outlets aren't currently fed from below (or above), if you have an open ceiling in the basement, you can still use this method to connect to a current outlet, run romex down and over and up to a new location. And you can use 12 gauge romex, no problem.
@@myutoob2011 amount paid even if $100 and not being able to collect on a valid claim is too much. I was smart enough to check rates before picking a place to retire, maybe you should have done the same.
@garybensel6680 agreed on the 1st part. 2nd part, I'm not retired yet, and my home has appreciated in value over 200k over the past 5 years. So there's that.
I was with you until you drilled your carpet. You went through the effort of finding all your studs and then you should have just pulled a measurement from the wall to the right of the first receptacle to where you want the new receptacle to be. Add and inch for drywall and drill bit radius and you can hit it perfectly every time.
Disclaimer: DON'T do this yourself this may cause your house to lose it's insurance if they find out and a it's safety hazard always hire an electrician.
Drilling under the baseboard didn't make any sense to me, you can just measure from the other wall cavity and then just drill from the bottom, no need to drill that extra hole
they're hardly "useless;" better said, they're not "perfect." In this case, he was locating the stud bays to install the outlet, he didn't need to know exactly where the center of the stud was, so this method works fine.
StudMark Stud Finder (My Favorite!) - geni.us/kCLBX
Klein Tools Circuit Breaker Finder - geni.us/vnk0ujr
Klein Tools 15-in-1 Screwdriver - geni.us/WQUnyaR
Knipex Hybrid Wire Strippers - geni.us/uVWn
Klein Tools RT250 - geni.us/rS4mlwJ
Southwire Voltage Tester (with Flashlight!) - geni.us/EIcTOsV
Southwire Smart Box - geni.us/ddcJ4nz
Insurance Survey Feedback (Thanks For The Help!) - n6ybsxp0y7y.typeform.com/to/I9U8iLnm
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
For some reason, the link to the circuit breaker finder is jumping to the Amazon store in Mexico. Issue could be on my end, but wanted to share in case it’s an unintentional link error that’s causing it to go to a specific country instead of whatever a viewer’s native country is.
You can also get oversized wall plates in grey 🤫
I live in a town house and your method doesn't work for me as I don't have a basement and I want to add an outlet on the left side of one of the walls in my garage. Such a shame as this looked like a good method.
Have done this project hundreds of times and this is by far the best way to do it. Nice job!
Thanks!
14:27!!!!!!! YES! cover plate screw turned vertical!! My Man!!!
👊, I have learned over the years 😂
IYKYK
I like mine vertical or horizontal. As long as they’re all the same on all the plates. Not all the hell over. Direction isn’t as important long as their all the same
Seeing you use Wagos made my day!
* If you have a basement. I love your videos but that is a big caveat for us slab home owners :-)
For sure, actually our most popular video on the channel address just your situation ua-cam.com/video/nWfEANZOYSk/v-deo.html
@EverydayHomeRepairs I need a video on adding a basement 😁
Could you use the attic?
@@heysarasyes. Just run the wires up. It will be a little tricky so will definitely need a fish tape.
@@heysaras In my 2 story home a good 3/4 of my first floor has a room directly above it making getting to the attic very difficult without cutting into the walls.
2:50 so glad there was a comment about the nastiness of that ground connection
That back-wiring method on the commercial outlets should be standard on all residential. So much better.
I think that would be great!
Excellent video with links to all the tools and supplies used. I greatly appreciate having the links to the new tools especially. I'm definitely going to get the StudMatk finder and Klein ratcheting tool. Thanks for the great video.
You bet and thanks for the feedback!
using the wago pigtail method has come in handy for so many of my projects.
Your videos are top notch. Thanks a lot!
Great information, best DIY show on YT!
Thanks for the support 👍
While working alone and needing to identify breaker that is associated with an outlet - plug a radio into the outlet and turn up the volume. While switching off breakers and radio can no longer be heard, then breaker associated with the outlet can be be located. This is a quick solution and does not require special tools. However AC outlet should still be tested with a meter to ensure it is no longer powered, before work commences.
Thanks for the tip 👍
Exactly what I do if I'm alone.
easy to do when you have access via basement/crawlspace. Options in Phoenix area are run a lot of cable up to attic and drill any firestops.. or bore horizontally through studs and fish it through. Post-tension slabs and no basements here.
Same if you’re on the second floor and an attic filled with junk. Lol.
@@johnholfelder6724well. you can (should?) fix that :)
@@ChuckReynolds Trouble is it’s usually at a customers house and I’m not cleaning someone’s attic. I was able to use his method at my condo with coax and a cable outlet. The prior owner just drilled a hole in the wood floor … Yeech. 🤢🤮
Measuring the distance from where the coax is at the plate upstairs to where you want to be and then use that in the basement would save drilling though the carpet.
I'm not at all a skilled tradesmn or even a mediocre DIYer but I thought that seemed off.
Seems like you could also just count the stud bays.
Drilling through the carpet can be disastrous. Some carpets are woven and the yarn can wrap itself around the drill bit. Before you know it the yarn has pulled across the room and you need to replace the carpet.🤬
@@robertlafleur5179my earlier response… I use a medium sized finishing nail to get a reference location.
Also, doing this is necessary…it’s only partially to get a good measure laterally…the IMPORTANT part is to be SURE you are drilling into the wall cavity and not into the room 😭
Great video
Thanks!
Scott very good video.
Thanks 👍
Very neat project. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the video!
You bet!
Scott have you used the stud finders from Franklin Sensors? Dunno which model I have, but I picked it up because it can see past thicker walls. All my walls and ceilings are 3/4" hardwood shiplap style ... and then they wallpapered the entire house as the finished surface. (I never need to use wall anchors or find studs to hang pictures ... ) They have a horizontal line of LEDs. You can "see" the stud coming into the center of the device.
It's for that reason I also use the Pass & Seymour old work outlet boxes because the screws and rear flaps are long enough to clear the thick walls. The standard Carlon or whatever don't work. Also a fan of the Legrand products. The Adorne line is fun.
For that Southwire box I find it helpful to start flush or just proud of the drywall because the angled screws always pull the box into the wall cavity.
I have seen the Franklin Sensors and seems like people really like their stud finders. I just like the small size of the StudMark but I do have 1/2" drywall on my properties. In your situation have the Franklin or similar makes a lot of sense. Those Pass and Seymour old work boxes are nice and worked well on a home I used to own which had thick plaster walls. I have not messed with the Adorne much but I do see them every time I am strolling through Menards electrical section. I am sure that product will make it on a video sooner or later. Good tip on the Southwire smartbox and it does take a little practice to get those boxes to land flush. Those better screws have helped a lot to get a secure hold and no chance of stripping out the mounting screws. I appreciate all the great feedback!
Hi Scott. Thank you
You bet!
Like all of your videos, great information. I need to do a pass through from the exterior wall to the inner wall about 4 or 5 inches just going through siding and sheet rock so that I can connect my portable solar panel to my power bank in the kitchen to run my fridge. Wife won't let me do it because she does not want insects coming in. Maybe you could a video so that I can show her that it is ok. It does not help that I am all thumbs. Great video.
I hate the thought of drilling holes in the floor. Make your drywall opening first and then drill down into the basement using a flex-shaft installers bit!
Nice , neat looking install & the vertical screw slots , nice touch ... I have the exact Klein tools & Knipiex strippers Thx
Great minds think alike 🙂
Great video. Thank you for sharing
Very nice vid. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing.
You bet!
Great video, love them all. you have given me the confidence to do diy electrical in my home. Do you have the links for the faceplates you used for the outlets ?? the jumbo one in particular ??
Great video, thanks! Is there any way to avoid drilling at 6:10? Can't you measure from the coax side downstairs?
For sure, you can take a measurement or 2 and usually hit the right spot. Drilling the subfloor just gives you a higher percentage shot of getting the hole in the right spot.
Do you have a video on how to do it by the attic? Thank you
It is very similar to this but you should be able to actually see the wall top plate in the attic. Locating the desired bay to run the romex can be a bit tricky but I usually use existing romex, vent lines, vents, etc. to try and get my location.
excellent. thank you
You bet!
what is the link for that stud finder?
StudMark Stud Finder (My Favorite!) - geni.us/kCLBX
Great video, my only question is whether you ever run into so-called "multi-wire branch circuits" where there are two hot wires of different phases (A and B phase) which share one neutral wire as return current? My 1959 house uses these on almost every circuit but did not have the circuit breakers linked together (as is current code), so when I started doing DIY, I nearly got shocked (caused a big spark) twice when the breaker for the circuit I was working on had been located and shut off (and tested to show there was no current), but in those circuits there still can be current from the other phase returning on the white neutral wire. My point is that these "MWBC's" were widely used in parts of the U.S. for decades and require a bit of sleuthing to find if the circuit breakers aren't locked together. DIYer beware. In a nutshell, if you have an older house, remove your panel cover and look where the wires leave your box on their journey through the home. If any of the conduits have two hot (either two black or black and another color) but only one white neutral wire (shared neutral), then follow those hots back to the breakers they connect to, and it should either be a dual breaker or two individual breakers locked together so that you can only turn them both on/off at the same time. After nearly getting shocked, I looked into it and found it "shocking" how common these circuits are in my part of the midwest. They are a pain, also, when you need to install a GFCI outlet or breaker as those often won't work properly in a shared-neutral circuit.
I actually do not, I have owned about 10 homes/rental homes and never ran into the shared neutrals. What state are you in?
7:19 isn't there already a 3/4" hole near the top of the joist you can use? I know you want to put a hole as near to the center as you can, but since that hole is already there...
Yeah, but wanted to keep the romex away from the subfloor to avoid any nails or screw penetration in the future.
Make sure your romex isn't touching any ductwork which can be incredibly dangerous.
I’ll have to go up to the attic to do this, as the house is a split level (🫤) on a slab. Thanks for the video!
Similar process just usually less comfortable crawling around in the attic.
When installing the adjustable outlet box, ( ~11:21) and when replacing the original screws, exactly what type of screws are so-called “general construction screws”?
Are they simply wood screws (in the case of wooden studs)? I like the suggestion and the rationale, but am unclear on just what alternative screws are recommended. Thanks
Hi, for this job did you use the wago 221 32A (WAG221-415) or 41A (WAG221-615) ? I want to add a new electric socket and wonder which wago 221 I should use. Thanks!
That does not look like a TR receptacle which wouldn't meet code in residential. Get the rest of it isn't code but if you are changing things out, it is generally a good idea to do so with things that meet current requirements.
TRs fail on me, and it becomes very frustrating when not able to plug things in. I replaced the receptacles with TR and now have to replace them again.
some trs have black shutters and it would make it look like a non tamper resistant
@@smashthings4fun They have to have TR on the outside. These don't.
@@vdivanov Either it is a bad brand or very old TR's as current ones from big names are very robust.
Why didn’t you use a flexible drill bit so you could just drill down into the stud bay, rather than drilling into the carpet?
That is a good option and especially better if you don't have carpet to avoid removing the baseboard with the approach I showed.
Why did you use two different kinds of outlet boxes for the two outlets?
AFCI protection?
Pliers as a hammer! 😂
Is it safe to do this method more than once?...suppose you connected to an existing outlet and made a new one, could you then extend using the same method for the new outlet? Just getting comfortable with electric work
A good practice would be to use fire proofing foam on the new hole you drilled.
I don't usually but that would be a good addition. Thanks for the call out.
Insurance:
City lot, 900-1000 sq ft
I pay 95CAD (67USD)/month for home owners insurance; property valued at $200,000 (140,000USD)
Included in that monthly cost is flood insurance (I live near a river, but the property is significantly higher then the surrounding area)
I also have a $5/month add-on (included in that) for the Wife's SOHO business insurance to protect her belongings (up to 10,000 of her own equipment; in case of theft/burglary/etc).
I live in Canada.
👍
3:45 I don't have a basement in my slab home. Will there be a video coming soon on how to build one?
This one works well for homes on a slab ua-cam.com/video/nWfEANZOYSk/v-deo.html
What code on running an extension cord through the wall? 😁
You should link the stud finder
StudMark Stud Finder (My Favorite!) - geni.us/kCLBX
I'm preparing to add electrical outlets to my exterior walls that are plaster. I don't believe there is any traditional studs behind it, do you have any recommendations? My main bedroom having 1 outlet is a real bummer
Why not junction in the basement especially if theres a service loop for the cable feeding the socket
That is also a good option and considered actually going through the installation of a 4x4 metal junction box on the floor joist but decided to focus in on this option. Thanks for the feedback.
@EverydayHomeRepairs Don’t suppose you a video or tips on how to tell if you have fire blocks on a 2-story new home build?
Use a stud finder. Locate the two vertical studs, then run horizontally in the stud Bay. If you pick up a stud, you've got fire blocking.
@@oldfredbear😅 yeah that didn’t cross my mind lol. Appreciate it!
Project idea: add a non-switched outlet to a switched circuit? I need to add an outlet outside (under soffet) and the closest line is a switched porch light. Can I use that same line but not switched to keep that outlet on?
Jumbo face plates sounds pretty damn hilarious.
Is there a place to find how best to do this on an outside insulated load bearing wall. Everyone is doing this. Which is so easy so I don’t blame them. How about doing something original and hard?
“Like any good electrician, I’ll use my pliers as a hammer.” 😂
Probably to late for this to be seen, but I would love to see some DIY electrical projects that use conduit instead of Romex. My house has all it's electric in conduit, and I would love to learn how to work with that. If anyone has any suggestions I would love to hear them.
Chicago-area resident, by chance? All conduit for me, too. I'm about to add outlets to my unfinished basement, so conduit should be easy to do. Thankfully there are enough outlets in the finished living space that I shouldn't have to mess with adding more.
Ya this is a job for an electrician.
*WARNING* Drilling through the carpet can be disastrous. Some carpets are woven and the yarn can wrap itself around the drill bit. Before you know it the yarn has pulled across the room and you need to replace the carpet.🤯
Good call, and I should have been a little more clear. The drill bit is actually off the edge of the carpet and drilling under the baseboard so if you are careful you should not have issues snagging the carpet.
Basement and Attic don't exist in many FL homes
Screwdriver link takes you to the Circuit finder
Thanks for the heads up, here is the correct link Klein Tools 15-in-1 Screwdriver - geni.us/WQUnyaR
I better way to drill a locating hole with cutting a coat hanger or similar wire. The cut end is sharp enough to make it though some drywall/floor. Much smaller hole. And in this case just measuring would have been better but he's just showing a method of locating
are you in USA or Canada
US
One thing I do differently. When you drilled to have a reference location… I use a medium sized finishing nail. (LOVE your content)
Scott's Australian cousin: "That's not a drill. This is a drill." 🐊🤠
😂
T25, Americans will do anything to not use Canadian designed Robertson screws.
Actually I am a big fan of Robertson. You have my vote for switching over all fasteners 👍
I’ve got a basement but none of my main floor outlets are supplied from below like yours are. And not from above either. Outlets are not 14 gauge. Light switches are 14. Outlets are 12 gauge.
Even if your outlets aren't currently fed from below (or above), if you have an open ceiling in the basement, you can still use this method to connect to a current outlet, run romex down and over and up to a new location. And you can use 12 gauge romex, no problem.
What ever you do don’t get Allstate as they don’t pay on claims. $1000 deductible $800yr on 198k home in TN
Thanks for the feedback 👍
You're complaining about $800/year, lol. Add a 0 to that in Florida and then complain. Haven't paid $800 since the mid 90's.
You're complaining about $800/year, lol. Add a 0 to that in Florida and then complain. Haven't paid $800 since the mid 90's.
@@myutoob2011 amount paid even if $100 and not being able to collect on a valid claim is too much. I was smart enough to check rates before picking a place to retire, maybe you should have done the same.
@garybensel6680 agreed on the 1st part. 2nd part, I'm not retired yet, and my home has appreciated in value over 200k over the past 5 years. So there's that.
I was with you until you drilled your carpet. You went through the effort of finding all your studs and then you should have just pulled a measurement from the wall to the right of the first receptacle to where you want the new receptacle to be. Add and inch for drywall and drill bit radius and you can hit it perfectly every time.
Anything is easy if you have access.
fixmyproperty AI fixes this. Add outlet to finished wall.
How about showing adding an outlet to the opposite wall 🤓
This video covers that situation ua-cam.com/video/FtlQiUTO6_Y/v-deo.html
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thank you
thats nice if you have a basement🙄🙄
and if you watched the video, at 15:30 he links his video how to hande that situation.
Disclaimer: DON'T do this yourself this may cause your house to lose it's insurance if they find out and a it's safety hazard always hire an electrician.
You put a 15 Amp outlet instead a 20 Amp outlet. The circuit is a 20 Amp.
You are not required to put a 20 amp outlet on the 20 amp circuit. The outlet needs to be equal to or less than the amperage rating of the circuit.
15 Amp outlets are approved for 20 Amp circuits as long as you have at least 1 duplex receptacle (2 outlets).
Uh, what's new here? Measure, run romex and hook up an outlet. This video has been done many times before
It’s never that accessible from the basement
Drilling under the baseboard didn't make any sense to me, you can just measure from the other wall cavity and then just drill from the bottom, no need to drill that extra hole
Magnetic stud finders are useless as they mark where the screws are not necessarily where the studs are.
FYI, the screws get screwed into the studs….
Seemed useful for him
they're hardly "useless;" better said, they're not "perfect." In this case, he was locating the stud bays to install the outlet, he didn't need to know exactly where the center of the stud was, so this method works fine.
@isabellavision I've got one of those multisensor/LED studfinders (Precision Sensors ProFinder 5000+ what a name!) and even they are not perfect.