IDEAL In-Sure® Push-In Wire Connectors
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- Опубліковано 26 тра 2016
- Here is the link to the IDEAL Push-In Wire Connector product page.
www.idealind.com/us/en/shop/p...
Push-In style wire connectors are becoming more popular with contractors versus the traditional twist on wire connectors that we have used for many years. UL puts these connectors through the exact same tests as traditional twist on wire connectors, so a push-in connector can be used anywhere a traditional twist-on would be used.
You know if it’s IDEAL, it’s a quality connector and the In-Sure™ Push-In Wire Connector is no exception. These connectors save time and improve productivity while perfecting electrical connections.
The color-coded, clear polycarbonate housing allows for visual verification of every connection. The ergonomic design of the In-Sure is easier to grip which means more comfortable push in connections. They are perfect for OEM lighting manufacturing, prefabricated wiring systems or almost any branch circuit wiring application. The low the insertion force makes it easy to push the solid or stranded wire fully into the connector quickly completing the job.
In-Sure Push-In connectors are UL Listed, CSA Certified, and rated to 600 V and 105 degrees Celsius for use on building wire, and 1000 V in signs and lighting fixtures. The connectors fit any combination of number 12 to 18 gauge solid or stranded copper conductors; however, like a standard twist-on connector, push-ins should not be used on aluminum wiring.
In-Sure Connectors come in seven different models and colors from a 2-port model all the way up to an 8-port model. There is also a 3-port blue model 39 for 10 gauge solid or stranded wire. Regular Push-ins connectors are rated to 20 amps the model 39 is rated to 30 amps.
To install the In-Sure connector first make sure the wiring you are using complies with all applicable electrical codes and turn off the power. Strip the conductors one half an inch exposing the bare conductors. Grip the wire firmly and fully push the conductor into an open port. Use only one conductor per port. You can verify the conductor is fully inserted to the back of the connector through the clear polycarbonate housing. The connector is reusable on solid wires of the same wire gauge or larger. If you are reusing the connector cut and re-strip the conductors, then reinsert into the connector. In order to remove a wire, pull and twist the wire back and forth until the wire is removed.
In-Sure Wire connectors should not be reused on stranded wire as strands maybe damaged or break free and become lodged inside the connector.
One of the benefits of the In-Sure connector that Electrical contractors like is the fact you can add a conductor to the connection if there is an open port without having to completely remake the connection. Additionally, the convenient check port allows for easy testing of the connection without removing the connector. The 2, 3, and 4 port connectors will also pass through a traditional knockout on the side of an electrical box.
#RonKipperFromIDEAL #IDEALINDUSTRIES #IDEALPush-InWireConnectors - Наука та технологія
Thanks Ron, just used a slew of the 2's 3's and 4's... Slick as hell and leaves more room in the box!
Hey Roger thanks for the feedback!
You bet Ron! Slick connectors..
Excellent video. It seems too easy, but it's not. Saves time and effort. Great explanation.
We seem to sell a lot of them! Ron
They really work! After I insert the wires I put a drop of super glue on the openings, I also wrap the connectors with electric tape. just to make sure. I've never re-use either type of connectors.
Use them well! Ron
Saved me today. (yes, I am pretty new to this game, and I'm sure more experienced folks could have found a simple fix or simply accomplished what I was struggling with easily) But bottom line, I went to splice in some 12/2 into an existing 12/2 up in the attic, and realized that my slack on the original wire was severely lacking. I was having trouble getting enough of the old wire(now cut in half) into the junction box with enough slack to get all the wires( 3 each of black, white and bare copper) twisted together. Then I remembered I had some of these, and just pushed the wires in. Good to go. All checks out good and exactly the same on the old outlet that was used to splice into, and on the new outlet, via a circuit checker and multi-meter, 124.7 volts on those 2 outlets and some others. We will see how it holds up. Next time I'll be sure I have plenty of slack. Either that, or I'll find some one who knows what they are doing! But, these seem to be handy sometimes.
Hi Bill good to hear from you thanks for sharing Ron
That was your “bottom line” short version of the story? I’d hate to see the regular one
Just got some of these to try out!
I found them so easy that I am confused they need instructions??
I like how you cut the video when the stranded wire was being inserted. Stranded wire is difficult to insert in these wire connectors.
Hey How To your are right they work best on solid wires the tip for stranded is to have a clean stipped wire with no loose ends and slightly twist it as you insert the stranxed wire into the connector have fun Ron
@@RonKipperDatacomm1 i agree these are near impossible for stripped wire and a fire hazard.
Dip in solder?
@@fillmorehillmore8239 If you would like it probably will help Ron
Good video. I just used some of these connectors in my home and they work great. Much better than the wire nuts as you can see and test the connection.
Thanks man!
They wont last as long tho. The tight connection will eventually fail, Ive seen a few with loose connections even though they're pushed in the whole way. A proper splice with the right sized wire nut will always be better
@@zacharybixler4137
Saw another video where the force to pull out the wire was tested. This brand held on to 85 lbs of force. So, I'm thinking that you're making that up, and you really don't know what you're talking about here
I got excited about your connectors when I thought that the hole was intended for releasing the spring and removing the wires. It turned out that it wasn't. So I returned your connectors and will gladly pay double the price for the lever style WAGOs instead.
Hey Michael be watching for news from IDEAL! have fun Ron
@@RonKipperDatacomm1 I sincerely hope you guys can make something that is a real competition to wago 221.
Like I said we are working on it Ron
Thanks that’s just what I was wanting to know if they could be used with stranded wire
strandThey work best with solid wires and stranded if it is 19 strands or less have fun Ron at ron.kipper@idealindustries.com
I bought a bag of the red (2 port) and orange (3 port) to use while repairing/replacing some lighting. I liked the smaller size (tight space in the gang box). Anyway, I was unable to use them because no matter how hard I tried I could not get the stranded wire to insert. The wire was copper and within the range listed on the bag. I thought about soldering the wire but decided to use the "old fashioned" wire nuts instead. I like the idea and may utilize these on a future project, but unless you have a heavier stranded wire I'd skip them. - I am not a professional electrician.
Hey Mark stranded is a little bit of a challenge and needs to be 19 strands or less to work. The connectors are UL Listed for stranded but the connector works best with solid conductors. Thanks for the comment. Ron
Personally, I would only use these on solid power wire not stranded lighting wires.
I ran into this same issue.
The fewer number of day-after-day repetitive and laborious hand movements the better. To me, that is where the real time savings are. Plus the extra port - I like that idea.
Thanks for taking the time to watch the video. Ron
Laziness does not justify doing a poor job using inferior products.
Even though the packaging (and this video) says to strip the wire 1/2 inch to make sure it connects all the way to the back of the connector, it's more like 3/4 inch. 1/2 inch is too short. I used these the other day in a project for the first time. Liked them better than the standard twist connectors. Would have preferred the WEGO brand with the levers but they are WAY too expensive. These are priced affordably.
Nunya just make sure the wire is fully inserted in the connector and no exposed conductors are outside the shell when you use them. Thanks for taking the time to make the comment. Ron
I got the blue ones today, put 4 wires in each, the blue 5 port ones have latches, I taped the latches down so they didn't come open when I pushed them back into the box
Hi Brandon we put the latches on the other end than a Wago to help keep the latches closed as you push it back into a box. Have fun Ron
Thanks for the video, that's a lot easier than the standard wire nuts
Areil nice to hear from you! Ron
So I have 3 black tires co.ing out of a 4 switch outlet can I use the 4 plug connectors to put 3 of the black wires in and use the 4th forth for a jumper
Chirs yes you could use one of the port to jumper to another device. Ron
Nice job ron
Thanks you sir!
How does it work with small gauge stranded wire into the connector..... Once in a blue moon I would see a wire that fall out of the connector in can lights..
You probably will need to tin the copper on 18 AWG but it is rated for it so it must work. Thanks for the question. Ron
Is the idea to push in your grounds from the box and then use the extra ports for pig tails to the switches?
Hello yes you can use the connector for that application. Ron
It would be very helpful to show one dismantled so viewers can see the internal structure.
Glen let me think about that Ron
Just simple question, i wanna use this for halo headlights n foglights, can i add the power source and wires from headlights n foglights all together into 3 port connector so that i can split the power into two? Thanks
Hey man as long as you have enough power for the lights I would say yes if it is solid copper wire. If high count stranded wire no just can't get the wire inside the connector. A standard Wire-Nut® with a little tape will do this as well. Have fun Ron
These are not weather tight. I wouldn't use them on a car.
How much surface does the wire contact the metal? Hard to tell if there’s like a tab in there.
There is a tab the wire makes contact with and these are UL Listed and can be used anywhere you would use a Twist-On connector hope that helped Ron
They work well on solid wire, but don't work on stranded wire. Stranded wire has a very difficult time being inserted into the connector as it "bunches up". I had to solder my stranded wire to give it some rigidity.
Hi Eric they do work best on solid wires with stranded make sure you have a clean cut and strip and slightly twist it as you insert the wire it should help Ron
My recessed lights came with stranded wire that was already soldered it work fine but maybe if not soldered could be tricky to insert@@RonKipperDatacomm1
Is it sufficient to just push the wires in and then set in the box, or should the wires additionally be twisted together as they traditionally are and perhaps wrapped in electrical tape?
Hey Brad no you do not need to twist the wires together. UL puts them through the exact same tests they put a twist on wire connector. Thanks for the note Ron
It is not required but you always should have plenty of wire in the box so it would not hurt to do a little bit but not like with wire nuts where you need a as much as you can manage.
So how does this work with the grounds? I have 3 separate cables - coming into a junction box. The hot/neutrals - 3 pairs - are in their own wire nuts - and the grounds are twisted together and screwed into the box. So with these I'd just run all the grounds into 1 connector? Would I need to pigtail something to the box? And for all three pairs do all the hots and neutrals go into their own connector - e.g. all 3 blacks on one, whites on another and grounds on another? What if they're separate circuits? It would be really helpful if Ideal put out more than just basic information about these things.
Hey Sparky you can use them to connect all the grounds in a box and if the box is metal and you are using metal conduit that needs to be grounded then yes ground the box too. These are design for single circuits so one connector for each of the hot, neutral and ground conductors you cannot mix them all in one connector. Hope that helps Ron
*****
Yes it does, Thanks for the clarification, Ron!
You appear to not know much about electrical wiring but you should get two of the three connector ones for each of the white (neutral) and copper (ground bundles IF you were you use these. Personally, I would leave them alone. There is no advantage to changing to them. They just make it easier. However, since they take less skill if you were to replace a switch (for example) these would be much easier to make a reliable connection.
I would love to see Ideal have some made in green for the ground wire. It is required in some areas.
Hi Phillip I will pass along your comment! Thanks Ron
Completely unnecessary, which is why Wago or Ideal don't make green ones. The long green wires or bare copper already tells you its ground. Also, there's no such thing as a code requirement for connector colors.
Can’t find any 6 or 8 port connectors made by you guys so I just bought wagos. Do you guys still make them?
TW they are on back order from what I know. Sorry they are out of stock Ron
So what about the resistance ? UL tested or not, what is known about any resistance present, if any ? Speaking of which, is the 30 amp model 30 amp because of size, or does it actually have more contact area for the wires ?
I can't talk about the design of the connectors but there is some resistance as in any connection. UL will put these through the exact same tests they put a twist-on wire connector so anywhere you can use a twist-on you can use a push-in connector. The 30 amp connector is just a little larger to accept 10 awg wire. With all of that said many electricians still prefer to pretwist the wires and will use a twist-on wire connector. Either way it is UL listed. Ron
Supposedly the German Wago connector, 273 series, is a push in connector that has about .1mOhm resistance. Theoretically it should be the same, and if it is these should be worry free, but if not, then there is where of to worry. UL approved connectors with 8mOhms of resistance as well, I wouldn't dare touch one of those !
@@wireconnectors9179
I'm trying find something like this for some ceiling fans. But it has an oddity too it. One side needs to be able to take out one of the neutrals if the fan is removed.
It has an old 60's probably 12-14 guage solid from the ceiling. That would just slip in a 3 connection slot. This is black/white/bare copper.
But the fan has Black/white/green(neutral)x2 twisted from the fan. The 2 neutrals are from the case below the ball joint and the top position above the ball joint for the fan. So, if the fan needs to physically removed this has to be removed. IE It needs the neutral to to be quick removable while the rest can be permanently installed. So one side needs to be a 3x whole filled with 4 wires. 2 of which are green neutrals. Is this possible. Or do any of these or other connectors have this config on one side if it's possible?
Second question. Is this a terminator only or does this connect multiple ends. Can it be used with to one each side then connected like a molex? I was assuming this was like a non soldering molex connector. Do you have anything that can hold unequal wires and split them apart with the casing? I need a connector that can hold 7 wires but can split them at 3/3/1. The one for a seperate neutral. But one that can be all put back together without removing the physical wireing from the casing but put back together to form a connection at will. Preferably something simple like a snap together and break apart with infinite uses. It's for a black/white/neutral config with one side having an extra neutral.
And could this be used on ceiling fans. I think the remote control box it has can take up to 110 watts for the lights or more. Not sure on the amps.
Hi Random User it can be used on a ceiling fan. Each connector can be used for only one part of the circuit so one for the hot conductors one for the nuetral, etc you cannot combine them in one push-in connector. IDEAL does not sell anything like a Molex connector. Hope that helps Ron
Thanks
Hi DaMasky appreciate you being out there. Ron
These are a headache with the stranded wires. No surprise you skipped the insertion of the stranded wire at 1:05
Good for the regular solid wires though.
You are very observant! Yes they are UL listed for stranded and it can be done but with some difficulties. Best if used on solid wires. Ron
How do you overcome the difficulties? WAGO 221 and 222 lever nuts don't seem to have such issues.
Jules yes I like the concept of the lever nuts too. We are always looking to improve the connection too. Ron
Agreed...on some of these I tinned the connections to make them easier to apply.
Igree only for solid wire
Wouldnt it be easier and safer to put electric wire ferrules over the stranded wires before pushing them in?
No that probably would not work. For stranded wires I would use a Wing-Nut instead. Ron
I see a lot of people are using blue electrical boxes these days. Can I change out all the medal boxes? Is it safer to do that? Is there any danger with the plastic boxes?
Hi Areil typically plastic boxes are used in residential work and metal boxes are used for commercial work and need to be grounded. I don't know what kind of work your doing so I really can't recommend either one. As for being safe the plastic boxes are allowed by the code so yes they are safe if used properly. Hope that helps Ron
Sorry I was not more clear. I have two metal receptacle boxes on a kitchen wall, We are remodeling the kitchen and wanted to add 2 more plug ins. My question is do we have to use metal because that is what's already there or can I buy 2 plastic ones and connect them down the line
Areil I would guess that you can use the plastic boxes as long as you are pulling a ground wire too. Older work used the conduit and metal boxes as a ground. Sounds like you should replace all the old wiring too.Good luck on the remodel and to be sure check with a local electrician. Ron
Thanks Ron
Medal boxes? Pulitzer??
I've used these several times and have had great success with solid but never stranded. Any tips?
Hi John the best tip I can give you is to make sure you have a clean cut and strip on the wire and slightly twist the stranded wire as you insert it. Plus it must be 19 strands or less. These connectors work best on solid wires Ron
@@RonKipperDatacomm1 Thank you I appreciate your response, I'll give it a try the next time I need to use them for that type of work!
OK John take care Ron
Wish a little more info on stranded wire. Twist first? I assume so.
You don't have to but slightly twist the wire as you insert it. We are luanching a lever connector that works better with stranded wires Ron
Good for 20 amps sustained indefinitely?
Yes they are rated for 20 Amps same as the largest wire they are rated for which is 12 AWG. You can always use a Wing-Nut if it makes you feel better Ron
Is there a strip length guide?
Yes it is on the packaging and is 1/2 inch hope that helped Ron
Do all of the ports have to be filled?
No you can use just one port if you wanted don't have to use them all. Ron
Can I use this connector with flexibles cables. I'm brazilian citizen and here the cables are flexibles.
If you do stranded cables all the time I would use a Twist-On wire connector. These are rated for stranded but it is a little bit of a challenge. The tip is to slightly twist the stranded wire as you insert them. Hope that helps Ron
@@RonKipperDatacomm1 Thank you Ron. Here in Brazil, we have problems in olds houses eletrical instalations. We have two tips of cables but I survive.
OK thanks for watching Ron
@@altairdesouza9368 In the US if the house is old enough it might still have aluminum wiring. I am glad I have solid copper.
no such thing as "flexible", did you mean stranded? im confused....
How do I remove the wires from the connectors
Jack just pull and twist on the wires one at a time and they will come out of the connectors Ron
Are these one time use plugs? or can be removed and reused.
Hey RAJsWork yes the 2,3 and 4 port connectors can be reused you can remove a conductor pulling and twisting on the conductor. They work best on solid conductors, if you are using them for stranded then we do not recommend reusing them as some strands can break off. The other push-in connectors we sell are not designed the be reused. Hope that helps Ron
Already was addressed in the video. You turn it off 10 seconds into it or something?
@@srobeck77 hey Shawn you watched a lot of videos over the weekend! have fun Ron
im having trouble pushing in the wire strands all the way.
Kenneth the best tip I can give you is to have a clean cut and strip then slightly twist the stranded wire as you insert it. IDEAL just luanched a Lever connector that work better with stranded wire. Ron
www.idealind.com/us/en/coveo-search.html#q=in-sure%20lever%20connector&t=products&sort=relevancy&numberOfResults=36
@@RonKipperDatacomm1 thanks. i just took off the poke in ones and just bought twist caps. These scare me i keep thinking it will start a fire
Hi there, ia it compatible with Aluminum wires?
Hello no they are not the Purple Twister is the only wire connector that you can use. Good luck Ron
Would be nice if you could put a couple diff sizes
You mean like a combo pack of 3 and 4 port connectors?
Ron Kipper Datacomm no I mean like I have tail light wiring on my trailers that join like two 20 gauge to a 14 gauge kind of thing
Hey Ron, do you guys have those lever connectors?
Hey TW you might want to be looking for an announcement soon. Ron
@@RonKipperDatacomm1 will keep a lookout!
They're interchangeable with wire nuts, so it's what you're comfortable with. There are people who swear by wire nuts, but I know you've had headaches with them over the years too -fess up! Wires that come disconnected, wires that weren't twisted all the way, people using the wrong size nut in the wrong place. With these it's pretty idiot proof.
You are right pretty much user preference many electricians will prefer to pretwisting the conductors as well. Have fun Ron
It's hard to teach an old dog, new tricks. Tradies are often resistant to change, especially seasoned trades. The younger ones seem more adaptable to new tech and ideas. I had one old fart at a plumbing shop tell me that ALL water heaters were the same, they all come out of the same factory, etc. He clearly hadn't been educated on any new high performance technology that the HVAC world has evolved into.
Removed comment posted in error with company account.
Please accept my apologies, it is not right to do so.
My personal opinion is these are great devices and are very popular but I lost interest when the video stopped short of showing what we all know, working with stranded wire is difficult. I work with machine tool wire. Since this is approved for stranded wire, that part was of more interest to me. It stands out for me and others who view the video and that's why the comment was made that you lost my trust in it.
I would not use them for stranded wire. They work great for solid power wires.
Yes they work best with solid wires Ron
What's the tool to extract the wire?
Just pull and twist a wire to remove it. WE don't recommend re-using the on straned wires though. Have fun Ron
I am not a fan of any push in connectors, including these. I have seen too many failures of "backstabbed" receptacles and switches to feel comfortable using a push in connector. I bought a package of these connectors for testing, and I found that the connectors can make tiny sparks internally where the wires connect when twisting the wires in the holes with current running through them. For a comparison, a correctly installed wire nut holds the wires completely secure, therefore no sparks are created when the connection is moved.
Also, as a side note, I found that when the 20 amp current limit is exceeded and 30 amps is pulled through the connection, these connectors get noticeably warmer than the 12 gauge wires that they are connecting, although not nearly hot enough to start a fire. As a comparison, the wire nut got no warmer than the 12 gauge wires did with 30 amps running through it. I know that these connectors are only rated for 20 amps, so 30 amps should never be pulled through them anyways, but in my opinion, still a valid test.
I am not saying that these connectors are "bad", but after seeing the results of my admittedly crude tests, I will be sticking with wire nuts. They are cheap, easy to use, and very reliable.
Avery thanks for the feedback! Many electricians still prefer twist-on wire connectors like the Wing-Nut® and still like to pre-twist the wires as well. It comes down to a preference by the user UL puts both connectors through the same set of tests and approve them for anywhere you would use a twist-on connector. I hear you though Ron
Fri me the irony is they are most useful in the least available 6 or 8 wire design for binding tons of neutrals together. I still use caps on 2 to 4 wires but I find it pain in the ass to get all those damn neutrals into the cap and secure. With these it is easy. You would have to have absolutely no skill to mess them up.
Secondly, you should not be pushing around wires that are hot. Your "test" is a legitimate as putting a jet engine on a car.
You would have "seen" many more improperly installed wires nuts, compared almost never with these. You forgot that part on your old wives knowledge tail here. Temperature temps find these no different than wire nuts in you fake bias analysis. Just sayin...
Even though this is an advertisement, no live link is posted in the information below the video. Disappointing.
Hey man I am working on it if you need help just let me know. Ron
I just bought some of these for a house I just bought to do some rewiring. I refuse to use them though. The weak, thin metal spring that hold these together can't possibly hold up over time like a wire nut that's done properly. These are a great idea, and make things easier, but I trust them about as much as i trust the quick connects on the back of receptacles and switches. I've seen those fail many times.. no thanks
Hey MMGJ09 we still love ya man we make the wire nuts too. Europe has used this style of wire connector for many years now and is kind of where they came from. I hear you though ... Ron
I would like to think these are made to a higher standard then outlets that have stab in connectors.
Push in connectors have been code and used almost exclusively in England for over 20 years now. Also, you haven't seen any "fail" or they wouldn't be in business. No need to lie to sound more right here, friend.
I love how they cut the video just before insertion of the stranded wire.
Hi Jim yoiu are very smart! Yes the trick is to slightly twist the stranded wire as you insert it. With that said I have always suggested these work best with solid wires but they are UL Listed for stranded wire with 19 strands or less. Higher strand count wire does not work. So use a Wing-Nut instead. Have fun Ron
lol am trying todo just that
couldnt get the stranded wires into them but 1 or 2 strands
Is the wire you are using 19 strands or less? Anything higher and it probably will not work. Ron
Actually, he does show inserting stranded wire at 2:42 minutes.
Low Insertion Force? You mean, like, KY jelly?
!
You are thinking too much........Ron
How did you not get sued to hell and back by Wago?
rippspeck love the tag name and I am not a lawyer so I am not sure. All I know is we are selling a lot of these connectors today and over the last 15 years or so they are more and more popular here in the US. You should be ashamed of what you did to that chicken..............I had to laugh when I looked closely. Ron
Probably because WEGO nuts have a lever to lock the wire in and these don't.
The Wago connectors are also available without the lever that is something new in the last few years. Ron
the patent is expired, we west europeans use push in conectors sinds the later 1970's.
Why is the spark wearing gloves
It is pretty common to wear gloves when working with these. I actually had a cut on one hand I did not want to share. Ron
It's a tool. you can use wire nuts as well in the same job. You have more than one screw driver!
Not sure what you mean Ron
Wire nuts aren't a tool, but you are apparently
How to release ?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????/
Just pull and twist and the wire will come out of the connector. Ron
So there's no clamp like the Wago connectors? This literally makes no sense.
No does not have the lever Ron
Nearly useless for stranded wire, especially at the larger gauges (12 awg), despite those gauges being listed on the package.
Pops2k yes I would agree bestt on solid wires IDEAL just released a new lever push in connector which is much better for use on stranded wires you might check it out. Ron
Oh man, wish I would have read this before starting stranded!
#12 is not going into my orange connector 😮
Hello it is not impossible to use them on stranded but they do work better on solid as I said if using stranded the new IN-Sure Lever connectors are a better choice. Ron
You couldn't pay me to use those things. Nothing makes a good tight connection like twisted wires inside a properly sized wire nut.
Those Ideal connectors also a total pain in the ass to remove wires from.
Harry we will still love you if you use a standard twist-on wire connector! The push-in style in the US after many years has begun to be approved and used in the US. In Europe it is about the only connector used and again UL tests them to the exact same tests a twist-on is put through. Ron
I've used these. More than likely once you wire a circuit, you won't really won't be disconnecting things. Maybe once in a while. If you are struggling with removing wires, you can simply cut the wires at the edge, throw away the connector. But if you are doing something where you are constantly having to disconnect and re-connect, use wire nuts.
@@chrisbaier6252 yep, did this the other day. Took me less time (vs twisted wires) to just cut the wires, throw away the connector, strip, new wires, and re insert.
And I wouldnt be paying you to use use some crappy twisted nuts. Guess your jobless and homeless now bra.
That is way too much insulation stripped there buddy. The molded color part can be used as a strip gauge this video should show that
Hey Jon I would agree need to strip a little less but most people will probably just guess at it as well. Have fun Ron
@@RonKipperDatacomm1 I followed this video and I had enough copper showing that when I twisted these connectors to lay them neatly in the back of the box, the wires pulled out about 1/8" and made contact with the back of the box.
One word ! "L.C."
Why would a one word abbreviation need two periods?
Nobody is perfert especially me........Ron
@@RonKipperDatacomm1 Loose Connections, "ONE WORD"? l.o.l.
Not worth a shit for stranded wire of a light fixture
Hello we have said it before these will not work on finely stranded wires look for the new In-Sure Lever connectors from IDEAL They work well with stranded wires Ron
I'll stick with wago connectors
I still like Tan Twisters!
chevy > ford
No.
Nope for me.
OK just use a Wing-Nut Ron
Just use Wagos ffs.
Hey Tammas use what you feel is best Ron
Chevy vs Ford.....
These are as bad as backstabbing devices! Don't use!
Hey Man a lot of us would still prefer to use a Wing-Nut or Twister twist on connector. The Push-In has come a long way and UL treats them the same either way you are using an IDEAL product. Ron
I don't trust push-in connectors. Most professional electricians wouldn't use these in their own homes. They look safer, faster, and easier to use, but wire nuts are a proven technology. Also, wire nuts are ridiculously cheap compare to those spring clamp things. That alone will keep me using them.
Hey Robert you hit on a couple good points to stay with using twist-on wire connectors. UL puts the push-in style through the exact same tests so to them they are the same. Ron
I'm with tyvek05. I don't see why anyone would choose to use wire nuts when something like this is available. They're safe, secure, and you can SEE it's making a good connection. I'm no professional electrician but I've done a lot of electrical, and I can't tell you how many times I've opened up an electrical box to find poorly executed wire nut connections made by "professional" contractors. These things are a sure bet.
Just so you guys know, this product with different Name in Europe has been used for years with no problems
You are the type of contractor that I would never use - all you care about is how many pennies you can save. Do the public a favor, and please retire - you are giving the better contractors a bad name.
Been used exclusively in England for over 20 years. Do you still stuff cash under the matress instead of a checking too?
Garbage. I regret buying them.
Wanted WAGOS but the homely despot only carries Ideal.
And that's a real shame because Ideal always had the best reputation among winged wire nuts. Couldn't be more disappointed.
Other than they don't work great on stranded what do you not like? Let me know Ron
I have been a commercial electrician for 4o yrs and can tell you these things are TOTAL JUNK
Hey Jim push-in style connectors are definitely more popular and probably better designed today. I know we have a hard time keeping up with demand. I find electrician's either hate them or love them. When I was new to the industry we definitely pre-twisted the wires and used a Twist-On connector. I hear you Ron
This style connector has been used in Europe with great success for a long time.
Total Junk? We wired my entire basement renovation using these. Have not had a single problem...
So in other words, you're a stubborn old man completely resistant to change, but have no actual reason to believe this way. There I fixed it for you, kind sir. Been using the England for over 20 years now far more than wire nuts.
Terrible! Found in cheap LED lighting! I just cut them. Worthless and time consuming.
Hey man if you want to use a Wing-Nut go ahead. Ron
Halo uses them.. I wouldn't say that's a cheap ass company.
People either love or hate the push-in style connectors. According to UL they can be used anywhere a twist-on connector is used. Ron
* they were found still working, yet you cut them out. sounds like you were worthless and time consuming to do that.....