Thanks for catching that Shane and Ab Abner. I just found your comment, sometimes UA-cam fails to alert me about a new comment. I always check the videos or accuracy, but this error got past me. I will pin this to the top of the comments.
Excellent help. I just unboxed a new kitchen ceiling light and it had the identical connectors you demonstrated. I had never seen these and had always used wire nuts. I thought I needed to open it but was unable, so I checked here. THANKS!
You are welcome, Andrea. It's always nice to hear the videos have been helpful. There are now over 200 how to/repair videos organized by playlist on the channel. If you find yourself with some free time, check them out. Thanks for taking the time to comment and to watch the video.
Thanks for the compliment, DJ Tony. As many others have done, please consider supporting the channel and subscribe. It's free and you will always be able to find the 200 videos on the channel (If you don't want to subscribe, check out the videos by clicking on the channel name). They are organized by playlist.
Hi thank you for this video , Quick Question... my wires were silver and when I cut it back it was copper? What was the silver coating that was originally on it before I cut it back?
Maybe someone soldiered the splices? Before wire nuts were invented, it was common to solder and tape splices. I've found spices like that in my 1952 home.
I had a similar question about wires on a dimmer switch I bought new a couple of years ago. According to diy.stackexchange.com/a/176747/34811, the silver-colored metal is tin/zinc-based solder, used to keep stranded copper from frizzing, or to protect copper from corrosion, and/or to allow it to be easily terminated into wirenuts and push-in type connectors. And a week ago, a bathroom fan that I bought had similar soldering on its wires (which came already attached to push-in connectors).
Is it possible to connect two single wires together using a 3 port wire connector; thus leaving one of the ports in the 3 port connector void of any wre; empty? Is it necessary to seal the unused and empty third port for example when connecting wiring for lights on an ATV / Quad where the 3 port wire connector might be exposed ot the elements? I doubt that multi-port wire connectors are IP67 rated.
Thanks so much! Just bought some LED hallway lights, had all the regular tools and some electrical tape and wire nuts, read the horrendous directions and had no clue how long to cut the wires, I’ve only ever used wire nuts…my age is showing. Hopefully they won’t interfere with the Wi-Fi
I’m in a pickle, the LED lights don’t fit the gang box correctly. Went to Lowe’s yesterday and bought a box of #8-32 to fit the gang box, the ones provided were way too short and small. I couldn’t figure out what size they were as nothing the hardware store had, they didn’t fit. The light is also a bit short of getting both #8-32’s into the holes. Is there an adapter that will help that you know of? I was hoping there’s a small plate or bar that can be screwed into the gang box and then I can properly secure the light fixture.
Without seeing your situation, I can't give you a good answer. You may want to take a picture of the situation and take it to an electrical supply house. There are many types of extension rings for electrical boxes. You could also try asking at one of the big box stores, but these days, who knows if you can find someone who knows the answer. Also Raco makes all kinds of electrical hardware, you can check out their catalog. www.hubbell.com/raco/en
I don't do a lot of work with sound systems. I can't give you expert advice on that question. BTW, there are also Wagos, which I think are better than the push in connections. I have a short video about them: ua-cam.com/video/A5o-iUDmi3U/v-deo.htmlsi=If68k0C3TIGCSHGO
- VERY HELPFUL ! ! ! Would be even more helpful if, in the near future, you'd do demo on an actual wiring project using the WAGO push-in nuts. Thanx for sharing.
You are welcome. A lot of people like the Wago brand connectors. They are expensive, but IMHO are superior, especially for non professionals. I think they are easier to use and less prone to user error. ua-cam.com/video/A5o-iUDmi3U/v-deo.html
Didn’t have to fully cut that much off. I am more conservative with wire than some people and the OP gave an example of why: When wire is already ran through a wall and cut, the length is pre-dealt and limited. Therefore it is important to cut as little off as possible. I would have cut off only the marred part, in fact placing the cutting right on the first mar from the tubing. That would decrease the amount of wasted copper & jacket by 1/2. In a situation where the wire is already short, this could make a significant difference in success vs a costly problem. Previous changes done without regard to conserving existing wire can very well be the reason why it’s short in the first place.
I do realize my comment may come off as nitpicking, but I have seen many people who have little-to-no regard for conservation. My former employer (a contractor) does some things I would never do, prime example: cardboard & other recycling in the garbage. He does this at practically every jobsite and it always bugged me. I gained a lot of skills from his mentoring and I still have a lot to learn, but I also see a bigger picture that he doesn’t and I won’t compromise my conservation ethics for speed, money or any other personal gain. That all said, thanks for the info, I did learn an answer from the video that I was looking for 🙂👍
Thanks for the thoughtful comment. I do not think you are nitpicking. When I have wires that are already short, I use Wagos. You don't have to strip the wire back every time the connection is remade. The Wagos are kind of pricey, so I don't see anyone in this country using them to replace wire nuts or the push in type connectors. ua-cam.com/video/A5o-iUDmi3U/v-deo.htmlsi=6bZ3Uhf0PJ88A-Y1
I need to make more room in my outlet boxes to install smart switches, as the switches are deep and take up much of the box. In the 2-, 3-, and 4-gang boxes it is impossible to fit them with all the twisted wire and wire nuts. I was planning to experiment with push-in connectors so that the wire could be folded more compactly into the back of the box. Unfortunately, the brand of smart switches that I have chosen come with stranded wire pigtails. I might still give it a try in at least one box.
You can try Wagos, I'll put a link to a video I have about Wagos. Also, there are box fill requirements to meet code. ua-cam.com/video/A5o-iUDmi3U/v-deo.html
@@Know-How-Now Thanks! I ended up using traditional wire nuts, but I taped the heck out of my wire groupings and nuts so that as I folded and pushed (crammed) them into the available space in the outlet boxes, they stayed tightly connected. I used colored electrical tape because I have four wire switches and there was just so much taping going on. Someday when someone switches them out I hope it's clear, but they are going to wonder why in the world I felt the need to use so much tape. It really worked though. I have crammed 26 smart switches into outlet boxes this way so far, the larges of which was a four gang box, and got them all to fit.
Thanks for your help. If some one did not strip enough insulation off, how would you know if you pushed it into the insulation part of the wire? Or is it not possible?
Hi Joel, the clear window on the connector would be the "tattle tale", if you can't see the copper in the window as shown in the video, then the insulation is not stripped back far enough.
I appreciate your reply but I do not think I asked the question right. Lets say you push the stripped wire to the point of the insulation being the point of the contact were the metal part of the push term would normally be holding the copper wire but is holding the insulated part. How would you know you did this? Can you feel it? Maybe the insulation part would not go into the holding metalic part? Thanks in advance
My experience is that the insulation won't fit through the "clamp" opening.... maybe you could push #20 insulation in that far. If you did manage to clamp down on the insulation, the connection wouldn't work and you would have to troubleshoot and find the bad connection.
I don't do much automotive electrical work. These connectors are designed to be indoors and in a spice box. I think there are special connectors/splices for automotive purposes. Go to Auto Zone or Advance, they likely sell something for your purpose there.
@@Know-How-Now I think this is similar to the question that I have. Is it possible to connect two single wires together using a 3 port wire connector; thus leaving one of the ports in the 3 port connector void of any wre; empty? Is it necessary to seal the unused and empty third port for example when connecting wiring for lights on an ATV / Quad where the 3 port wire connector might be exposed ot the elements? I doubt that multi-port wire connectors are IP67 rated.
Thank you very much young lady it was very very helpful this is the first time I have ever encountered this type of connection and your video made me more confident to use it. God bless you and your family and friends and remember if you have not repented repent now Jesus Christ is coming very very soon repent and accept our Lord and Savior into your heart so we can be in heaven one day amen.✝️✝️✝️🇺🇸
I'm not a fan of the push in connections. In my experience they don't save time and the connection is less secure than wire nuts. The problem is that twisting the wires can back them out of the connector. When you run wires to a receptacle, you separate out each color of wire and make your connections. When you cram everything into the box that twists the wires around and you can visually seen some of your connections have started backing out. Then I have to recheck all my connections and spend time pushing wires into their connectors from inside the receptacle. (Because pulling everything out of the receptacle would just start the process over.) The push in connections may be rated for stranded wire but in real life I can't imagine that working at all. The wire would be a mangled mess by the time you got it in the connector. I might try the wago connectors with levers at some point but I don't plan on ever buying push connectors again.
Thanks for taking the time to write the thoughtful comment, Alex. I've never tried the Wagos, they are a little pricey. I prefer wire nuts too. The push in type are good if you have issues with your hands/hand strength. If you have really short wires in a box they might be a good solution as long as you don't want to take the connection apart.
Yeah I bought a bag of the push in connectors for some wiring in the house I bought. After checking them out I just used good old wire nuts. They seem just like the quick connects on the back of receptacles and switches that come loose. No thanks.
@@Know-How-Now I just replaced multiple 4 foot fluorescent light fixtures in a house built in the late 90's. All the LED fixtures i purchased to replace the fluorescents and the standard single bulb incandescent bulb fixtures in halls and closets now come with these type of push in connectors. It made for quick work for the new installation.
Keep meaning to get some of these would be great in the caravan which has solid wire for 12v and 240v wiring. Btw you sound like the lady from How its Made!
Yeah, the stranded is difficult. I had used these for some recessed lights in my new shed. The grounded wire from the lights were flimsy stranded copper that didn't get in very securely. I ended up just using wire nuts for those, and used these connectors for the hot and neutrals, which the manufacturer had used some tinning or solder to make more firm. Those ones pushed in just fine.
@@Know-How-Now She said @ 1:35 it must be the same gauge or smaller. Then said if #12 gauge was used you couldn't use #14. So I think she made a mistake.
I find Wago connectors are easier to use and more foolproof than the push in types for beginners doing electrical work. They are more expensive. Link to video about them: ua-cam.com/video/A5o-iUDmi3U/v-deo.html There are hundreds of videos at Know How Now, subscribe so you can always find the channel…. It’s free. I always respect your time and do my best to keep the videos brief, but informative. Check out the channel with this link: www.youtube.com/@Know-How-Now/videos
You wouldn't want to use these connectors to join two wires. I have a video that shows how to do that. Here's the link: ua-cam.com/video/tVS1ynJqJmM/v-deo.htmlsi=_8AMvMucefmVder_ There is also another video about crimping wires: ua-cam.com/video/xhPM5-JbRtA/v-deo.htmlsi=p2co9sKju61pHAQo
You can't pull wire nuts off like these. I do think they're nice for capping of the wires in light fixtures before the drywall goes up. That way the homeowner or whoever can wire their lights up.
Yeah, I helped some friends out. Their AC wasn't working. I traced the problem to the emergency on/off switch. The switch had been back stabbed and the side must have cracked/broke when it was put in the box. Of course it was builder grade/crap switch. Luckily, it didn't heat up and start a fire. I know people are going to use these, hopefully, they will at least use them properly.
Condition #2: You can reuse with the same size wire or LARGER. Lower nominal gauge = larger wire diameter (in case anyone is confused).
I believe you're right what she said made no sense.
Thanks for catching that Shane and Ab Abner. I just found your comment, sometimes UA-cam fails to alert me about a new comment. I always check the videos or accuracy, but this error got past me. I will pin this to the top of the comments.
how do two wagoes connect together
I've been working in electronics for a year now, but to me, personally, your voice is still the best part of these videos
SIMP!
Excellent help. I just unboxed a new kitchen ceiling light and it had the identical connectors you demonstrated. I had never seen these and had always used wire nuts. I thought I needed to open it but was unable, so I checked here. THANKS!
You are welcome, it's always nice to hear the videos are helpful!
Same here! I am not sure how to connect these in a safe way... Any videos on this!
I have been salivating to get & use these; you answered a major question, won't be getting them after all Thanks!
You are welcome. I think the Wagos are better. ua-cam.com/video/A5o-iUDmi3U/v-deo.htmlsi=pTiSxpeuYYPsUcuB
Thanks just needed a quick video on using them and this is great
You are welcome. Thank you for taking the time to write the comment.
Thank you for a simple and informative video!!
You are welcome, Ken!
Pull ans twist!! Thank you! That's what I needed to know! I can confirm now, that this works on the Ideal module 102 two wire plug as well.
You are welcome, thanks for watching the video and taking the time to write a comment.
Same here. Wasn’t sure if you could remove wires without cutting and throwing away connector.
I like your explaination style. Very very clear! You are fantastic🏅👍👍. Thanks so much!
You are welcome, Andrea. It's always nice to hear the videos have been helpful. There are now over 200 how to/repair videos organized by playlist on the channel. If you find yourself with some free time, check them out. Thanks for taking the time to comment and to watch the video.
Just what I needed! Thank you!
You are welcome, Amelia!
Very good, helpful, and complete... AND clear.
Thanks for the compliment, DJ Tony. As many others have done, please consider supporting the channel and subscribe. It's free and you will always be able to find the 200 videos on the channel (If you don't want to subscribe, check out the videos by clicking on the channel name). They are organized by playlist.
Hi thank you for this video , Quick Question... my wires were silver and when I cut it back it was copper? What was the silver coating that was originally on it before I cut it back?
Maybe someone soldiered the splices? Before wire nuts were invented, it was common to solder and tape splices. I've found spices like that in my 1952 home.
I had a similar question about wires on a dimmer switch I bought new a couple of years ago. According to diy.stackexchange.com/a/176747/34811, the silver-colored metal is tin/zinc-based solder, used to keep stranded copper from frizzing, or to protect copper from corrosion, and/or to allow it to be easily terminated into wirenuts and push-in type connectors. And a week ago, a bathroom fan that I bought had similar soldering on its wires (which came already attached to push-in connectors).
Is it possible to connect two single wires together using a 3 port wire connector; thus leaving one of the ports in the 3 port connector void of any wre; empty? Is it necessary to seal the unused and empty third port for example when connecting wiring for lights on an ATV / Quad where the 3 port wire connector might be exposed ot the elements? I doubt that multi-port wire connectors are IP67 rated.
Thanks so much! Just bought some LED hallway lights, had all the regular tools and some electrical tape and wire nuts, read the horrendous directions and had no clue how long to cut the wires, I’ve only ever used wire nuts…my age is showing. Hopefully they won’t interfere with the Wi-Fi
You are welcome, Elaine. Best wishes for the light install and the Wi-Fi.
I’m in a pickle, the LED lights don’t fit the gang box correctly. Went to Lowe’s yesterday and bought a box of #8-32 to fit the gang box, the ones provided were way too short and small. I couldn’t figure out what size they were as nothing the hardware store had, they didn’t fit. The light is also a bit short of getting both #8-32’s into the holes. Is there an adapter that will help that you know of? I was hoping there’s a small plate or bar that can be screwed into the gang box and then I can properly secure the light fixture.
Without seeing your situation, I can't give you a good answer. You may want to take a picture of the situation and take it to an electrical supply house. There are many types of extension rings for electrical boxes. You could also try asking at one of the big box stores, but these days, who knows if you can find someone who knows the answer. Also Raco makes all kinds of electrical hardware, you can check out their catalog. www.hubbell.com/raco/en
@@Know-How-Now great, thanks so much!
Chop chop explanation. Excellent
Thanks for the compliment.
Do you have to tin the stranded wire first redoing my cars sound system I normally use wire nuts or crimp connections but these looked interesting
I don't do a lot of work with sound systems. I can't give you expert advice on that question. BTW, there are also Wagos, which I think are better than the push in connections. I have a short video about them: ua-cam.com/video/A5o-iUDmi3U/v-deo.htmlsi=If68k0C3TIGCSHGO
Wow thank you for taking the time to make this video you answered all my questions 🔌👍
You are welcome, you might also want to check out Wago's. Here's a link to a video I have about them. ua-cam.com/video/A5o-iUDmi3U/v-deo.html
- VERY HELPFUL ! ! ! Would be even more helpful if, in the near future, you'd do demo on an actual wiring project using the WAGO push-in nuts. Thanx for sharing.
You are welcome, lady kenja. I'll put you suggestion on the list of possible future videos.
Never used these b4. Thanks you rule
You are welcome. A lot of people like the Wago brand connectors. They are expensive, but IMHO are superior, especially for non professionals. I think they are easier to use and less prone to user error. ua-cam.com/video/A5o-iUDmi3U/v-deo.html
Thank you enjoy your evening.
You are welcome. Enjoy your day.
Didn’t have to fully cut that much off. I am more conservative with wire than some people and the OP gave an example of why: When wire is already ran through a wall and cut, the length is pre-dealt and limited. Therefore it is important to cut as little off as possible. I would have cut off only the marred part, in fact placing the cutting right on the first mar from the tubing. That would decrease the amount of wasted copper & jacket by 1/2. In a situation where the wire is already short, this could make a significant difference in success vs a costly problem. Previous changes done without regard to conserving existing wire can very well be the reason why it’s short in the first place.
I do realize my comment may come off as nitpicking, but I have seen many people who have little-to-no regard for conservation. My former employer (a contractor) does some things I would never do, prime example: cardboard & other recycling in the garbage. He does this at practically every jobsite and it always bugged me. I gained a lot of skills from his mentoring and I still have a lot to learn, but I also see a bigger picture that he doesn’t and I won’t compromise my conservation ethics for speed, money or any other personal gain. That all said, thanks for the info, I did learn an answer from the video that I was looking for 🙂👍
Thanks for the thoughtful comment. I do not think you are nitpicking. When I have wires that are already short, I use Wagos. You don't have to strip the wire back every time the connection is remade. The Wagos are kind of pricey, so I don't see anyone in this country using them to replace wire nuts or the push in type connectors. ua-cam.com/video/A5o-iUDmi3U/v-deo.htmlsi=6bZ3Uhf0PJ88A-Y1
I need to make more room in my outlet boxes to install smart switches, as the switches are deep and take up much of the box. In the 2-, 3-, and 4-gang boxes it is impossible to fit them with all the twisted wire and wire nuts. I was planning to experiment with push-in connectors so that the wire could be folded more compactly into the back of the box. Unfortunately, the brand of smart switches that I have chosen come with stranded wire pigtails. I might still give it a try in at least one box.
You can try Wagos, I'll put a link to a video I have about Wagos. Also, there are box fill requirements to meet code. ua-cam.com/video/A5o-iUDmi3U/v-deo.html
@@Know-How-Now Thanks! I ended up using traditional wire nuts, but I taped the heck out of my wire groupings and nuts so that as I folded and pushed (crammed) them into the available space in the outlet boxes, they stayed tightly connected. I used colored electrical tape because I have four wire switches and there was just so much taping going on. Someday when someone switches them out I hope it's clear, but they are going to wonder why in the world I felt the need to use so much tape. It really worked though. I have crammed 26 smart switches into outlet boxes this way so far, the larges of which was a four gang box, and got them all to fit.
Thanks for your help. If some one did not strip enough insulation off, how would you know if you pushed it into the insulation part of the wire? Or is it not possible?
Hi Joel, the clear window on the connector would be the "tattle tale", if you can't see the copper in the window as shown in the video, then the insulation is not stripped back far enough.
I appreciate your reply but I do not think I asked the question right. Lets say you push the stripped wire to the point of the insulation being the point of the contact were the metal part of the push term would normally be holding the copper wire but is holding the insulated part. How would you know you did this? Can you feel it? Maybe the insulation part would not go into the holding metalic part?
Thanks in advance
My experience is that the insulation won't fit through the "clamp" opening.... maybe you could push #20 insulation in that far. If you did manage to clamp down on the insulation, the connection wouldn't work and you would have to troubleshoot and find the bad connection.
Thanks Know!
@@JoelAntoinette i agree the bottom insulation is risky
Hi, can this be used for taillight wires on automotive? If yes do you believe this is safe for maybe damp areas? Thank you
I don't do much automotive electrical work. These connectors are designed to be indoors and in a spice box. I think there are special connectors/splices for automotive purposes. Go to Auto Zone or Advance, they likely sell something for your purpose there.
@@Know-How-Now the packaging says for use in dry locations only
Thanks very much!
You're welcome!
Nice informative video- thanks!
You are welcome, Candice!
Thank you.
You're welcome.
Have you thought of bare ferruls for stranded wires
That's a good idea.
Can be used with stranded wire?
Yes, around the :35 mark is a chart showing the connector's listing.
Oh man, you failed to show me what that's for? What do you connect them together? Are you connecting them to your outlet plug?
I stick to the title of the video. You might want to take electrical wiring 101 class.
Sassy!!!
Can I use a 4 connector with only 3 ports ?
I'm not clear on your question. I think you are asking if you can only use 3 ports (leaving one empty) of a 4 port connector. The answer is yes.
@@Know-How-Now yes! Thanks for clarifying
@@Know-How-Now I think this is similar to the question that I have. Is it possible to connect two single wires together using a 3 port wire connector; thus leaving one of the ports in the 3 port connector void of any wre; empty? Is it necessary to seal the unused and empty third port for example when connecting wiring for lights on an ATV / Quad where the 3 port wire connector might be exposed ot the elements? I doubt that multi-port wire connectors are IP67 rated.
Thank you very much young lady it was very very helpful this is the first time I have ever encountered this type of connection and your video made me more confident to use it. God bless you and your family and friends and remember if you have not repented repent now Jesus Christ is coming very very soon repent and accept our Lord and Savior into your heart so we can be in heaven one day amen.✝️✝️✝️🇺🇸
You are welcome. Have a blessed day.
I'm not a fan of the push in connections. In my experience they don't save time and the connection is less secure than wire nuts. The problem is that twisting the wires can back them out of the connector.
When you run wires to a receptacle, you separate out each color of wire and make your connections. When you cram everything into the box that twists the wires around and you can visually seen some of your connections have started backing out. Then I have to recheck all my connections and spend time pushing wires into their connectors from inside the receptacle. (Because pulling everything out of the receptacle would just start the process over.)
The push in connections may be rated for stranded wire but in real life I can't imagine that working at all. The wire would be a mangled mess by the time you got it in the connector. I might try the wago connectors with levers at some point but I don't plan on ever buying push connectors again.
Thanks for taking the time to write the thoughtful comment, Alex. I've never tried the Wagos, they are a little pricey. I prefer wire nuts too.
The push in type are good if you have issues with your hands/hand strength. If you have really short wires in a box they might be a good solution as long as you don't want to take the connection apart.
Yeah I bought a bag of the push in connectors for some wiring in the house I bought. After checking them out I just used good old wire nuts.
They seem just like the quick connects on the back of receptacles and switches that come loose. No thanks.
@@Know-How-Now I just replaced multiple 4 foot fluorescent light fixtures in a house built in the late 90's. All the LED fixtures i purchased to replace the fluorescents and the standard single bulb incandescent bulb fixtures in halls and closets now come with these type of push in connectors. It made for quick work for the new installation.
Keep meaning to get some of these would be great in the caravan which has solid wire for 12v and 240v wiring. Btw you sound like the lady from How its Made!
A couple of people have mentioned that I sound like Jodie Foster.
Know How Now yes you do come to think of it!!
Well, Jodie Foster is not making these You Tube videos. LOL!
Great video. Thank you.
You are welcome.
You need a good twit on it for stranded but it will work
Yeah, the stranded is difficult. I had used these for some recessed lights in my new shed. The grounded wire from the lights were flimsy stranded copper that didn't get in very securely. I ended up just using wire nuts for those, and used these connectors for the hot and neutrals, which the manufacturer had used some tinning or solder to make more firm. Those ones pushed in just fine.
@@ThriftDiving yeah I started to tin these stranded ends myself
NUMBER 14 wire is smaller than #12
You are correct, I'm not sure if this was a question. Happy New Year!
@@Know-How-Now She said @ 1:35 it must be the same gauge or smaller. Then said if #12 gauge was used you couldn't use #14. So I think she made a mistake.
I find Wago connectors are easier to use and more foolproof than the push in types for beginners doing electrical work. They are more expensive. Link to video about them: ua-cam.com/video/A5o-iUDmi3U/v-deo.html
There are hundreds of videos at Know How Now, subscribe so you can always find the channel…. It’s free. I always respect your time and do my best to keep the videos brief, but informative. Check out the channel with this link:
www.youtube.com/@Know-How-Now/videos
Does ideal make a unit to connect 3 wires together like a butt connection
Here's a link to ideals page that might help, I am not familiar all of their products. idealind.com/shop/product-type/connectors/crimp-on.html
Thanks!
You are welcome, Lisa.
can you splice r
two wires together
You wouldn't want to use these connectors to join two wires. I have a video that shows how to do that. Here's the link: ua-cam.com/video/tVS1ynJqJmM/v-deo.htmlsi=_8AMvMucefmVder_ There is also another video about crimping wires: ua-cam.com/video/xhPM5-JbRtA/v-deo.htmlsi=p2co9sKju61pHAQo
thanks
You're welcome
these are rated for stranded wire without tinning.
Yes, but it is difficult to twist the strands tight enough to stay rigid enough to push in smoothly. You're better off tinning.
They might be rated for it but you'd be an idiot to use them. Wire twist nuts are the best hands down.
You can't pull wire nuts off like these. I do think they're nice for capping of the wires in light fixtures before the drywall goes up. That way the homeowner or whoever can wire their lights up.
Wires should the same gauge
I will be throwing mine away. Wago baby, they can be reused very easily 3:20
We no longer back stab so I wouldn't use these until we go to 10 amp circuit breakers
Yeah, I helped some friends out. Their AC wasn't working. I traced the problem to the emergency on/off switch. The switch had been back stabbed and the side must have cracked/broke when it was put in the box. Of course it was builder grade/crap switch. Luckily, it didn't heat up and start a fire. I know people are going to use these, hopefully, they will at least use them properly.
You did not show how to connect other 3 wires from power
Perhaps you are commenting on the wrong video? The title of this one Is "How to Use Push in Wire Connectors".
Thanks for nothing!!!
You are welcome, it's my pleasure to help!!!!
Thank you so much!
You're welcome!