That Gamet chuck brings back faith in the British Engineering industry to be honest. Even with cracks in some of the jaws, as you said the fit and finish is superb.
As a mechanic in many areas over my years working I find it fascinating to learn about other types of maintenance. More insight into aircraft maintenance please.
I have no idea what I'm doing watching your channel. You are so over my head with everything you do. But i do so enjoy your videos.Cant wait for the next one.
I resisted buying pliers wrenches for years. I finally broke down and bought a set and now I have got a bunch of them. I literally use them every time I do something mechanical. I can't imagine not having them.
Those 3 holes in the front of the chuck are likely used for depth stops if your holding thin stock, to keep it parallel to the chuck, and spaced off the jaws.
While looking on the air inlet of the spindle, it might be beneficial to constrain rotation with something else, then tubes. Maybe just ballast on the bottom, so force that gets through the bearing through friction will be counteracted.
Good reminder. I need to go back through the old disassembly video, as I have a feeling there is an anti rotation feature, maybe I missed reassembling it correctly.
@@RotarySMP why would you want to bother re-running all that tubing instead of just putting a 90 quick connect right where the hose melted through? especially one you solder a bracket/arm on that you can fix elsewhere to the body of the lathe to completely avoid this problem in the future?
That chuck is indeed a thing of beauty, what luck getting your hands on it! In the old job the approach to setting NDT intervals was to make them often enough that a probable crack would get inspected three times before it became critical, which seems reasonable to me. Your experience with your English grinder reminds me of my experience with English aircraft; after that I'll take just about any others German included. Finally it's almost a shame that even the cheap sockets are improving; the softer ones are handy if you want to modify one for something.
There are multiple methodologies for generating inspections, that is just one for structural crack detection. Maybe I'll talk about others in a coming video.
I'm always amazed at how these chucks are engineered. From the outside they looki deceptively simple but inside they are pretty complicated. Like all machinists too! Great video as usual. And two specialized tools to boot.
The thing which doesnt show up on video is how the fit of all three sets of chuck parts is so similar. Once clean, the bellcranks just slide in. Dirty, they all jam.
Everything needs more power according to Tim Taylor... I had an ultrasonic cleaner years ago and it never really did much cleaning that I could see. Now my friend is a jeweler and has a beast of a steam cleaner as in rip the mean off your hands steam and it works great but it's the size of a liquid cooled spot welder and I know I would end up getting hurt with it but it sure cleans well. I'm a little leery of the long term lifespan of the air cylinder more so than the tubes to it (once routed better)
That is probably correct, as Schaublin redesigned the air cylinder for the later model 125-CCN, to replace this large diameter single piston model with a more compact dual piston design.
Your channel is the perfect equivalent of kids TV for (slightly) grown-ups. Thank you, and good luck with the jaws - you could always cast some replacements, it’s time to move up to steel anyway 😜
And you said my Bison chuck was nice! That's the chuck of joy, LOL!! And perfect segue with cracks in aircraft parts! Cracks can cause failures that I can't recover from. Those inspections save lives. Southwest Airlines has the largest fine in US history for not complying with an AD to inspect for cracks. The same cracks that blew the top off of an Aloha Airlines B737. Southwest decided to not comply to save money, and they had a Fed in their pocket. A new Fed, that was not in "the know" caught that they were not compliant and turned them in. 7 of their planes had the problems that Aloha had. YIKES! I hope you get some free new jaws. Good luck.....
I remember that fine. It was something like $200 million wasnt it? I suspect that this chuck is a finacial write off. One commented reported that it cost $7k twenty years ago. Can't imagine hobbiest priced base jaws today :/
@@RotarySMP Yes that fine was a monster back then! It's still a lot of money in my opinion today. And that figure sounds right. Southwest is known among pilots to be the airline that breaks all kinds of rules. All of their crashes have been pilots knowingly and blatantly braking the rules! $7K??? Are you serious? I hope one of your views can help you on that one. Good luck....
On the Clarkson, to add a vernier to the slide, just install a Chinese caliper to the bed to act as a DRO. Down and dirty, quick and cheap. Nice to see you using the Clarkson. It's hard to not have something like that when you watch Stefan's videos. You get jealous real fast. At least that's why I bought my U2 Deckle clone similar to the one that Robin Renzetti modified (and Stefan also). BTW, I liked your chamfer bit vid. Very inspiring as usual.
Lovely engineered chuck, pity about the cracks, interesting on aerospace component fracture monitoring. Guessing minimum € 3000 for a set. Thanks for sharing
not only are they for depth stops, but a thin flanged cover, stops the greese from pushing out of the machine surfaces, also a seal against chips falling inside the ways of the master jaws, gumming up the operation of the chuck, also stops the cutting fluids from thining out the grease.
G'day! That's a nice looking grinder. Damn Brits using all these weird non metric threads and shit :) says the Brit waving to you all the way from the colonies that haven't yet dumped imperial weights and measures - my life is forever in limbo. Speaking of grinding, when I did work to replace the spindle bearing on my cheap Chinese mill I needed to machine down a socket too. I used the lathe and carbide tooling. I don't know what this HomeDepot socket was made of but needless to say there were loads of sparks and chips that landed on the lathe bed carried on burning on their own. I'll never forget that experience.
looking back to episode 8 I see that there were originally braided hoses with banjo fitting to the chuck cylinder, which clearly worked well for the last few decades. perhaps a hybrid of past and present would do the new airlines to a block mounted to the old hose bracket location and new/original braided hose from there to the cylinder . best of both worlds.
Unfortunately I binned the old hoses and banjos. I figured reinstalling 40 year old soaked plastic was asking for trouble. Now I will have to make this work.
I was thinking replacing the 40 year old hose with new ;) that hose and the crimps are easy to find A bit of background on me : 12 years of field service, and 2 as service manager on mori seiki machines in canada and then 1year with DMG . It is very important that those cylinders are constrained ONLY in rotation , in no way should there be any kind of rigid connection. this was done on your machine with the stiff air hose's, and the rigid bango fitting. and therefore replicating or replacing with exact would be the wise thing to do. Mori and the other japanese manufactures commonly use Kitigawa chucks and cylinders . these are much larger and heavier than yours. to keep the hydraulic rotary union from rotating, an arm bracket bolts to the headstock and reaches back to the rotary union and ends in a fork . there is a detail on the union (a hydraulic drain) that sits loosely in this fork (sorry could not find pictures) ,this prevents rotation. What you do not want to do in any way, is offend or harm the seals or bearing on your (40 year old)rotary union and cause it to seize
@@steveggca I checked last night, and there is an anti rotation feature on the air connection sleeve, which keys into the rear cover, so it was no the tubes which was reacting the the rotational friction.
@@RotarySMP Ah so merely a hose routing issue. i was wondering what that thingy was on the bottom of the cylinder. definately replace the swivel fittings with fixed . by the way M8x1 is a common hydraulic thread there are closed center hydraulic cylinders used by mori and others and they do constrain the rotation by thoughtfully arranged hydraulic hoses
Addendum. Were you aware of the anti rotation thing before last night ? If you had missed that , in normal rotation the hose most certainly could have been pulled against the piston. if that is the case than just repairing the hose as is would be fine except for when running without the cover.
For you tube machine tool restorations, this project is second only to Kieth Rucker’s New Haven Metal Planer project. Both have been utterly fascinating to watch.
for my ultrasonic cleaning needs, i just throw everything in one or more ziplocks, filled with cleaning fluid (I use iso, or dishwasher fluid. I think they stand up to acetone too but can say 100%) but have used glass many times. I think both work fine.
With some old crusty, but precision part, even if simple, it is sometimes hard to know whether it is not coming apart easily because of burrs and crud, or cause you missed the one buried set screw. I was also curious whether they still support this model with new jaws (they do).
i would bend hydr. tubing instead of plastic pneumatic hose. wenn you groove it before bending it (with the manual lathe) these work pretty good with the push fits. just paint it on the first 10mm with a marker, push it in and turn it a few times, the you see the perfect position. nice chuck an tool holders btw!
Radiographic inspect if only really rarely used on-wing. I can only remember one time, on an engine pylon with a very unusual crack. That cracked jaw is certainly not safe, especially at speed. I suspect that this is a financial write off.
I remove chamfer from sockets when it is beneficial, typically to hammer smaller socket on rounded nut with proper cutting action. I spin sockets with a drill and i put then to a grinding wheel until i end up with 90 deg edge
Also i made extra short 5,5mm 1/4" socket this way, i shaved it to about 10mm to work on VW, Skoda and Seat AC heat flap actuator without dismantling whole system. Bastards put screws about 3cm from floor and servo dies randomly :v
@@RotarySMP I repaired this problem in single temperature setting, automatic AC systems from about 2000 to about 2010. It's not too bad as dc motor dies open and comes to live few times, so trouble codes are already saved and you will feel lack of temperature control before final fault. Parts are available, in left hand drive cars job is not too bad with said socket and nice quality 1/4" driver, but with flat wrench i would loose mind as this requires laying on the floor and backing off bit by bit
True. Although magnetic and grinding dust are a messy mix. The Clarkson has a number of features for monting stuff though, so I should have been less lazy :)
You could have probably just turned the socket on the lathe, I did it with carbide tools and it works if you buy those cheap chinesium ones, but if I had such a cool tool grinder, I would also want to use it more :)
What an amazing chuck, thats really cool to see! It took me a second to understand how it works but what a cool mechanism. It seems like the only thing that would slow you down is changing the position of each jaw when you have a new diameter of part (not a problem for making something in bulk of course). I wonder if it would be possible to have some type of quick release/quick adjust jaws with a mechanism faster than screws to hold the jaws down. Interesting to think about, I had an idea but its hard to describe in writing haha. If you’re interested at all I could try to make a quick video showing the quick release idea, but I could be fundamentally wrong in how Im understanding this too hahaha. Anyways thanks for the great content as always and for the comments on my videos as well! Its a big inspiration to keep making videos when someone has thoughts about what I did Thanks!
I think if you are only doing one offs, this is not the right chuck. It is a production tool. For one off jobs, I will be using a scroll chuck, which I havent bought yet. I guess some sot of cam overcenter device could make the jaw adjustment faster.
That chuck has definitely lead a very hard life, what a shame it's been mistreated like that, but glad it's found a good "forever home" where it will be restored and put back to good use.
@@RotarySMP Could be, unless Gamet decides to contribute. Either way it's dangerous to use chuck with cracked master jaws. Obviouly from the external appearance of this tool it has been used improperly or outright abused, a shame.
@@MRCNC1967 I wonder if it jammed due to not performed regular cleaning and maintenance, and the "fixed" it with percussive maintenance, which "worked" well enough for them to get into the habit of doing that. Glad I made this video. I nearly didnt bother, but this way at least I get a bit back out of it if it is write off.
@@RotarySMP Several years ago a factory tech came into my shop to service one of our production CNC lathes. On the workbench next to the lathe he spots a ball peen hammer alongside other shop paraphernalia. He picked up the hammer, looked me in the eye and said, and I'm paraphrasing, "This does not belong anywhere near this machine." He also did not like air blow guns since they tend to drive chips into spots they do not belong. He took his job very seriouly and literally spent an hour just cleaning the "patient" before service. Fortunately it was a warranty visit so no skin off my wallet.
re: the clarkson scale missing, a simple way would be to set a dial indicator against the cross-slide whenever you need accurate movement, maybe? thanks for the videos!
@@RotarySMP Doesn’t need to be magnetic. A hole, or using the t-slot, for a suitable indicator holder of some sort. If you fancy you can even make it permanent. But you said that already in the video I think. 🙄🙈 A “Robin-Stefan-O-ring-drill motor-drive” would also be nice. Yeah, I know. Time. To many projects already. This is getting along really nice! 👍
@@andli461 I have an O-ring drive for cylindrical grinding on the Clarkson, but this job didn't really need it. True, the Clarkson is not short of mount points. Since nothing was critical on that socket, it was easier to whine about missing accuracy, than to do something about it :)
@@RotarySMP Totally agree. For this job it was perfectly fine. 👌 But then you start to think…about nice features… And bang, you have a new hobby. In addition to the initial one you got the tools for in the first place. 🙄😬😂
I taken apart the schunk chucks at work many times. The most pain in the butt part is to fiddle the seals on to the base jaws. It's a small opening and the seal has to sit on 3 sides of the jaw.
There are no seals on this one. There is absolutely no play in the jaws and bell crank, so until it was cleaned, the bellcrank bound up on the gunk. I can see the need for regular maintenance here.
that's not just any adjustable wrench, it's the only adjustable wrench you should ever use :D that pin thing that wouldn't come out looked like its hole had its edge slightly peened over by the stamped lettering.
Main concern with ultrasound when talking about those material thicknesses and frequency (28 or 40 KHz for those types of cleaners) is reflection/transmission coefficients rather than attenuation (with is pretty much negligible, will be on the order of .01 db/mm). Those coefficients are determined by the parameter called specific acoustic impedance, more simply put (density times the speed of sound in the material). The higher the difference -- the less gets through. Water is about 1.4-1.5 MRayl (unit of acoustic impedance), plastics on the range of 1.5 - 3 MRayl typically, glass > 5 MRayl. So more ultrasound is reflected off of the glass.
@@RotarySMP Yes, plastic should work better. Or if the bottom of your jar is making good contact with the metal (of the ultrasonic cleaner) just above the transducer then it shouldn't matter.
Those sockets usually aren't that hard. I've turned several down in a lathe, and it usually machines like butter. I was actually a bit surprised the first time. Those 3 holes on the front are probably meant for adjustment screws to get a part to run concentric. I'd wager someone made them for that at some points through the chucks life.
bit late to the party, but you could always put a magstand with an plunge indicator you don't mind getting dusty on the Clarkson and use that on the cross carriage to get a "better" resolution
I'm not sure why you would want a powered chuck without a passthrough for stock. I'm assuming this lathe also takes 5c or equivalent style collets, that's really where the power draw tube comes in handy. The air union most certainly needs a support arm to prevent rotation, it looks like there wasn't one on there, but its definitely necessary. Last year I made from scratch a headstock for an emco pc cnc 50 lathe last year that utilizes 5c collets, and allows an air powered draw tube to automatically draw collets in order to bar feed. it works great, I can run batches of parts unattended and work on other things. The stock chuck was actually really nice but the headstock only allowed 13mm of pass through. The new headstock I made can do 38mm, which allows a draw tube for 5c allowing up to 25mm stock to be automatically pulled through, and now i can use any 5c chucks and collets. I bought a cheap bar puller off amazon and mounted it to the cross slide, so I still retain all my (6 ;-;) tools and can bar feed.
The spindle nose is Schaublin B32 collet native. Similar size to 5C. Yeah, I had a nagging doubt about the collet closer anti rotation feature. I think I need to check my mates 125-CNC, as I might be missing a part there. Collets will cover all the bar stock, so I guess a power chuck is used for small parts. Did you post a thread on your Emco headstock build anywhere? I would be interested in seeing that.
With the grinder machine, could you just use a micrometer “clock” with a magnetic base, touching the axis sled? Zero it out after you measure the part so you can make an incremental move?
True, but magnetic bases and grinders is kind of messy, and this was not a precise part. For a precise move I would mount a clock with one of the many tool stop clamping features of the Clarkson.
I guess a T&C grinder is a double edge sword in a production shop. You can do all sorts of specials and regrinds with it, and especially waste a whole lot of irreplaceable time! :)
@@RotarySMP i watched abit but only on a telly. Ive been out at the local track helping my Old man. Hed racing two classes this weekend on ring Djursland. Classic super Bike on hes Suzuki gsxr 750 srad and a class on hes TZ 350. So we’ve been busy.
Nice gifts you got! Didn't think the power chuck could crack the jaws by itself (maybe got some external incitement, when locked). With a bit of luck, you may get a new set jaws - your channel has now enough exposure to attract this kind of sponsoring 🙂 You mentioned ND testing on aviation industry - do you also use ultrasonic crack detection? PS: I have this feeling that the nameplate will not be ready before the machine is up and running. Have you tried a stiff toothbrush with typical household cleaners?
Ultrasonic inspection is also used. All the various NDT methods are used somewhere in the process chain. The chuck does not seem to have any wear, but the external marks are not those of a caring owner. Wonder how the causes the crack initiation?
@@RotarySMP Thanks. Yep, the lack of care (maybe it came from a school) brought me to suspect a hard dig-in of the tool when turning - that could create the forces capable of cracking the jaws. Wonder if you can resurface the chuck body, prior to install the new jaws.
@@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT I way also thinking that a skim cut on the face and circumference would improve it's looks dramatically. Still, it might be beyond economic repair.
Simple adage for ultrasonic: does sound go through it well? Y/N So plastic absorbs whereas glass transmits (or even focuses) effectively. Anyways, great stuff, thanks for sharing this neat bit of kit.
the 125 seems like a perfect candidate to convert its way's to hydrostatic ways if you ask me ( thats my plan to try and do that on the manual one when i get mine )
They are hardened ways, and given the limited hours it will work in my hobby shop, I think it will last forever. In production I wonder how many hours till the bed is significantly worn? Given the manual way oiling, I guess the operator makes a big difference.
@@RotarySMP i don't know about box ways (they probably wear much faster) but my Mori AL2 from the 80s with linear rails has barely worn in with 35 years in production it did. Has really cranked down some parts while the original shop had a bar feeder behind it. (It has a parts catcher so you can do like a few hundred small parts unattended for example) It stops working if the oil level goes down on the automatic lubrication pump so it always had the lubrication working.
@@RotarySMP true though sometimes they are more worn then they look ( remember from one of my old jobs we had a machine where we had to compensait in the program for the wear in the ways everytime we needed to make those parts ( if we/i didnt i was going down about 0.03mm in the middle of the part where it was only allowed 0.01mm )) because the are flat harden ways they are perfect candidates for it ^^ since if what i have been reading on the internet its basicly harden ways where they float on a constant 0.01/0.005mm thick film of oil ( no contact and oil is non-compressseble under the sercomstances that we can put it under on earth plus it does also requair the good practis of covering7protecting the ways anyway ( so cut off parts cant fly down and ding the ways at all or chips and dust getting stuck between the wat and sadle wearing it out faster ) but cant wait and see what your gonna do with ours when you finish it ( realy hope to see the air blast that i mentioned in a former video come to live ( could even mount some tube on the sedal with some small holes blowing at the ways to blow chips away and protect them that way in case you dont want to cover them up) best regards from denmark
Floating tubing original Schaublin @ 20:30? If so, very bad design, I'd make some aluminium sheet metal thing, that connects the rotating part with back of machine between the belt, that prevents the tubes from rubbing at the belt pulley.
I hear swiss-knife talking! You don't use flat-blade screwdriver on Phillips screws, do you? I know it is illegal in Germany, but they say Austria is much more liberal.
Never knew it was cammed like that. Didn't seem like it would work to have hydraulics going through the chuck, just didn't know this was how it was done
“My daughter/s borrowed my set.” Sounds very familiar. I bought her sets of most everything so she wouldn’t do it. It wasn’t the borrowing, but the not returning it that was the problem.
Did you just fill a crusty small old chuck with Kluber? Damn! That shit is REALLY expensive. I doubt more than 5 people in my country including me have it. PS: Also I think chucks really need the EP additives. At least that's true for scroll chucks
Yes :) The Kluber is for the Maho vertical head gears. I didnt use much here. Gamet does recommend a Kluber grease, but not IBU 15. It is some teflon grease that the chuck needs.
That looks like quite a niche piece of kit, so I'm not sure if Gamet will be scrabbling to help you purely to get their products in front of your 20k subscribers......... Mind you, considering that I hadn't even heard of Gamet before you mentioned them here, and after a quick Google I've seen that they also do some quite interesting chucks that are more in line with what a keen hobby machinist would be looking for, it's always possible that they might be looking to extend their reach into this sector of the market, and your channel could be just the starting point to make that happen. On the subject of subscribers, how on gods green earth have you managed to stay under having 20k of us ( I know that for some, it's quality over quantity, but at some point you're going to need to let the unwashed riff raff in as well. :D). Maybe to get more subs, you'll need to wh0re yourself out by doing the occasional colab with other UA-camrs? 🤔
Yeah, that was a joke. My guess is that companies like Gamet dont really have an advertising budget. Their products are the advert, and anyone who needs them, knows about them. I really don't know how the algorithm works, but but the growth seems somewhat steady. Once I get the Schaublin running, it would be fun to do a colab, on the right project.
If anyone could help you make a new set of jaws it would be Robin Renzetti or Steve from Solid Rock Machine Shop. A collab with them would be really something.
If you do need to replace the whole tube, you could cut the head off a bolt, or machine a serrated pin, that is tight fit in the tube and use it to connect the new tube to the old one. Then use the old tube to pull the new tube through the machine, like fishing wires through a wall.
Clearly if you are asking me, then I need to advise that you don’t have to watch. Thanks for watching, and leaving a comment for the algorithm. Much appreciated
Since steel is heavily recycled and nobody really sorts it by grade before doing so the quality of steels is slowly being pushed up across the board, mostly due to high manganese content.
I guess that makes sense. I was kind of wondering how they alloy steels to specific standards, given the ore and scrap which goes in at the start of the process. I guess for the highest grades, of closely controlled steels for things like landing gears, or nuclear components, they start with only the purest ores, and dont add scrap.
@@RotarySMP Specific alloy melts of iron and steel are usually done by tapping off a sample of melted metal and analysing it "on the fly" before adding ingots of alloying metals or oresands for extra silicon, phosphorus etc. It can happen that there's too much of a particular element in a melt -- one foundry I did work for where they made paper-making rollers, they once melted a big batch of SG cast iron using a lot of scrap railway track which they got cheap. The 150 tonnes of melt in the two crucibles ended up with way too much manganese (which provided the railway track with abrasion resistance). They couldn't correct for this excess since they could only add elements, not extract them. They had to pour the 150 tonnes out as manganese-rich pigs, carefully label them and use them up in later jobs.
@@RotarySMP Oh yes... the company (no longer with us, unfortunately) made rollers for paper-making machinery with some of the bigger ones weighing 150 tonnes each. The drums were cast to very exact specifications given they were expected to spin at 600rpm for decades and a large drum failing in operation due to a flaw or material defect would have resulted in very costly downtime, if not a disaster (lots of stored energy in a large spinning drum after all). Spheroidal Graphite iron (SG iron) is a mechanically strong cast iron, made by heat-treating and thermally soaking the item as it cools down but the elemental makeup of the molten iron is very important. Fascinating stuff, it was only "invented" in the 1940s as a cheaper substitute for steel in some applications.
Yep, glad I asked for the manual. Given how beaten it is, and the burrs, but also a precision mechanism, it is hard to know how much force to use to disassemble. Easy to miss a set screw or something.
Have you had bad experience with the Clarkson? I kind of like mucking around with it, but I am no pro, and is worn enough that the surface finishes are not great.
@@RotarySMP I must have had half a dozen of them through my hands in the early days. Just terrible things IMO. You mention wear - that's one of the principle design flaws. They are so badly designed that ingress of grit is an inevitability. Every machine I had was completely worn out. In some ways the design is simple and clever, but it has more in common with 19th century machine tool design than the post-war era and certainly can't be regarded as a precision instrument. The MKIII machine branded as "March" (the actual makers) was considerably better and used properly protected linear bearings for ways. I'm not saying that an unworn machine won't do the job, but I don't think that's the reason that you, me and my customers buy Swiss and German machine tools. I'm also not implying that Britain did not produce some extremely fine machine tools - we certainly did, just look at Dean Smith and Grace or Holbrook lathes or Jones and Shipman grinders. A better alternative to the Clarkson is the nice little Union machine or the more developed Boxford. However, on the continent you are spoilt for choice. Walter made a lovely small machine, and any of the Saake grinders are superb - all quite big though. Lots of other German manufacturers made lovely machines and some of the Swiss makers like HARO (Robert Habib) are in a league of their own.
I just realised how negative my comment was! Even though I've played about with Swiss machine tools for 30 years, I very much enjoy your videos, keep up the good work!!!
That Gamet chuck brings back faith in the British Engineering industry to be honest. Even with cracks in some of the jaws, as you said the fit and finish is superb.
I thought that chuck was made in France?
@RotarySMP I thought that Leader Chuck in Tamworth made Gamet chucks. Maybe they are just agents. Happy to be proved wrong.
As a mechanic in many areas over my years working I find it fascinating to learn about other types of maintenance. More insight into aircraft maintenance please.
Will do.
I have no idea what I'm doing watching your channel. You are so over my head with everything you do. But i do so enjoy your videos.Cant wait for the next one.
Thanks for the kind feedback. I also don't know what I am doing much of the time :)
I resisted buying pliers wrenches for years. I finally broke down and bought a set and now I have got a bunch of them. I literally use them every time I do something mechanical. I can't imagine not having them.
Mr Whitworth has sold a bunch of them :)
Those 3 holes in the front of the chuck are likely used for depth stops if your holding thin stock, to keep it parallel to the chuck, and spaced off the jaws.
Good point. That would be super useful.
ua-cam.com/video/U3x8H1Xb-jg/v-deo.html
@@RotarySMP Possibly worth keeping them blanked off with grubscrews to keep them clear?
@@ericfeatherstone Good idea. I think I have some M4 grubs screws.
Love your videos! Tid bits about airline industry and some of you non workshop footage just enrich the whole viewing experience!
Thanks for the kind feedback.
This channel is underrated
Thanks. Share a link with some one please :)
While looking on the air inlet of the spindle, it might be beneficial to constrain rotation with something else, then tubes. Maybe just ballast on the bottom, so force that gets through the bearing through friction will be counteracted.
Good reminder. I need to go back through the old disassembly video, as I have a feeling there is an anti rotation feature, maybe I missed reassembling it correctly.
@@RotarySMP why would you want to bother re-running all that tubing instead of just putting a 90 quick connect right where the hose melted through? especially one you solder a bracket/arm on that you can fix elsewhere to the body of the lathe to completely avoid this problem in the future?
@@Keechization I didn'tt think that through when I said it. I will do that.
"One person and you" Ooof! It's fascinating to hear about cracks and the inspections needed.
Thanks for the feedback.
That chuck is indeed a thing of beauty, what luck getting your hands on it! In the old job the approach to setting NDT intervals was to make them often enough that a probable crack would get inspected three times before it became critical, which seems reasonable to me.
Your experience with your English grinder reminds me of my experience with English aircraft; after that I'll take just about any others German included.
Finally it's almost a shame that even the cheap sockets are improving; the softer ones are handy if you want to modify one for something.
Bummer the jaws are cracked. Incredibly close tolerances on the grinding.
@@RotarySMP That might mean that they're serial parts rather than individually fitted though; here's hoping you can get another set.
@@jimsvideos7201 I hope so as well, although I fear they will cost more than I paid for the chuck.
It was very interesting to hear about the rationale for inspection intervals in aviation.
There are multiple methodologies for generating inspections, that is just one for structural crack detection.
Maybe I'll talk about others in a coming video.
I'm always amazed at how these chucks are engineered. From the outside they looki deceptively simple but inside they are pretty complicated. Like all machinists too! Great video as usual. And two specialized tools to boot.
The thing which doesnt show up on video is how the fit of all three sets of chuck parts is so similar. Once clean, the bellcranks just slide in. Dirty, they all jam.
You posted this exactly a week after I had to figure it out on my machine! Oh well, I will just pretend that the learning curve builds character
I hopes you chuck isn't cracked.
Everything needs more power according to Tim Taylor... I had an ultrasonic cleaner years ago and it never really did much cleaning that I could see. Now my friend is a jeweler and has a beast of a steam cleaner as in rip the mean off your hands steam and it works great but it's the size of a liquid cooled spot welder and I know I would end up getting hurt with it but it sure cleans well. I'm a little leery of the long term lifespan of the air cylinder more so than the tubes to it (once routed better)
That is probably correct, as Schaublin redesigned the air cylinder for the later model 125-CCN, to replace this large diameter single piston model with a more compact dual piston design.
Your channel is the perfect equivalent of kids TV for (slightly) grown-ups. Thank you, and good luck with the jaws - you could always cast some replacements, it’s time to move up to steel anyway 😜
Yeah, wonder how long they would last. Those are certain to be forgings.
And you said my Bison chuck was nice! That's the chuck of joy, LOL!! And perfect segue with cracks in aircraft parts! Cracks can cause failures that I can't recover from. Those inspections save lives. Southwest Airlines has the largest fine in US history for not complying with an AD to inspect for cracks. The same cracks that blew the top off of an Aloha Airlines B737. Southwest decided to not comply to save money, and they had a Fed in their pocket. A new Fed, that was not in "the know" caught that they were not compliant and turned them in. 7 of their planes had the problems that Aloha had. YIKES! I hope you get some free new jaws. Good luck.....
I remember that fine. It was something like $200 million wasnt it?
I suspect that this chuck is a finacial write off. One commented reported that it cost $7k twenty years ago. Can't imagine hobbiest priced base jaws today :/
@@RotarySMP Yes that fine was a monster back then! It's still a lot of money in my opinion today. And that figure sounds right. Southwest is known among pilots to be the airline that breaks all kinds of rules. All of their crashes have been pilots knowingly and blatantly braking the rules!
$7K??? Are you serious? I hope one of your views can help you on that one. Good luck....
@@jster1963 And that was 20Y ago, probably 2x today. I only paid €450 for the chuck, so it is probably a write off.
On the Clarkson, to add a vernier to the slide, just install a Chinese caliper to the bed to act as a DRO. Down and dirty, quick and cheap. Nice to see you using the Clarkson. It's hard to not have something like that when you watch Stefan's videos. You get jealous real fast. At least that's why I bought my U2 Deckle clone similar to the one that Robin Renzetti modified (and Stefan also). BTW, I liked your chamfer bit vid. Very inspiring as usual.
Good point. Tool grinding is a fun hobby in and off itself. Takes me a lot of time to find the set ups.
Lovely engineered chuck, pity about the cracks, interesting on aerospace component fracture monitoring.
Guessing minimum € 3000 for a set.
Thanks for sharing
I also suspect this will be a financial write off. Thanks for your comment.
not only are they for depth stops, but a thin flanged cover, stops the greese from pushing out of the machine surfaces, also a seal against chips falling inside the ways of the master jaws, gumming up the operation of the chuck, also stops the cutting fluids from thining out the grease.
Thanks for sharing that.
Good old WD50 always does the trick.
Thanks to Ricky.
How much is wd50 better than wd40? I reckon at least 10 formula versions better
It’s aged longer in titanium barrels
G'day! That's a nice looking grinder. Damn Brits using all these weird non metric threads and shit :) says the Brit waving to you all the way from the colonies that haven't yet dumped imperial weights and measures - my life is forever in limbo. Speaking of grinding, when I did work to replace the spindle bearing on my cheap Chinese mill I needed to machine down a socket too. I used the lathe and carbide tooling. I don't know what this HomeDepot socket was made of but needless to say there were loads of sparks and chips that landed on the lathe bed carried on burning on their own. I'll never forget that experience.
I considered turning it down, but decided this was more fun and better content.
looking back to episode 8 I see that there were originally braided hoses with banjo fitting to the chuck cylinder,
which clearly worked well for the last few decades.
perhaps a hybrid of past and present would do
the new airlines to a block mounted to the old hose bracket location and new/original braided hose from there to the
cylinder . best of both worlds.
Unfortunately I binned the old hoses and banjos. I figured reinstalling 40 year old soaked plastic was asking for trouble. Now I will have to make this work.
I was thinking replacing the 40 year old hose with new ;) that hose and the crimps are easy to find
A bit of background on me : 12 years of field service, and 2 as service manager on mori seiki machines in canada and then 1year with DMG .
It is very important that those cylinders are constrained ONLY in rotation , in no way should there be any kind of rigid connection.
this was done on your machine with the stiff air hose's, and the rigid bango fitting. and therefore replicating or replacing with exact would be the
wise thing to do.
Mori and the other japanese manufactures commonly use Kitigawa chucks and cylinders . these are much larger and heavier than yours.
to keep the hydraulic rotary union from rotating, an arm bracket bolts to the headstock and reaches back to the rotary union and ends in a fork .
there is a detail on the union (a hydraulic drain) that sits loosely in this fork (sorry could not find pictures) ,this prevents rotation.
What you do not want to do in any way, is offend or harm the seals or bearing on your (40 year old)rotary union and cause it to seize
@@steveggca I checked last night, and there is an anti rotation feature on the air connection sleeve, which keys into the rear cover, so it was no the tubes which was reacting the the rotational friction.
@@RotarySMP Ah so merely a hose routing issue. i was wondering what that thingy was on the bottom of the cylinder.
definately replace the swivel fittings with fixed .
by the way M8x1 is a common hydraulic thread
there are closed center hydraulic cylinders used by mori and others and they do constrain the rotation by thoughtfully arranged hydraulic hoses
Addendum. Were you aware of the anti rotation thing before last night ? If you had missed that , in normal rotation the hose most
certainly could have been pulled against the piston.
if that is the case than just repairing the hose as is would be fine except for when running without the cover.
For you tube machine tool restorations, this project is second only to Kieth Rucker’s New Haven Metal Planer project. Both have been utterly fascinating to watch.
Thanks for the feedback. Spread the word :)
for my ultrasonic cleaning needs, i just throw everything in one or more ziplocks, filled with cleaning fluid (I use iso, or dishwasher fluid. I think they stand up to acetone too but can say 100%) but have used glass many times. I think both work fine.
Yeah, I also dont over analyse the U/S cleaner. If it doesnt work fast, I just zap for longer.
Really informative video, I never tought to contact the manufacturer of a chuck for disassembly.
With some old crusty, but precision part, even if simple, it is sometimes hard to know whether it is not coming apart easily because of burrs and crud, or cause you missed the one buried set screw. I was also curious whether they still support this model with new jaws (they do).
i would bend hydr. tubing instead of plastic pneumatic hose. wenn you groove it before bending it (with the manual lathe) these work pretty good with the push fits. just paint it on the first 10mm with a marker, push it in and turn it a few times, the you see the perfect position.
nice chuck an tool holders btw!
Thanks for the tip.
xray inspection, I wonder if gamma is still popular with iridium-192 or Cobalt...
will the cracked jaws let go under load and pose a safety hazard?
Radiographic inspect if only really rarely used on-wing. I can only remember one time, on an engine pylon with a very unusual crack.
That cracked jaw is certainly not safe, especially at speed. I suspect that this is a financial write off.
very nice chuck for a small lathe
Schaublin lists in the user manual as a standard accessory for the 125. It really is a very precisely made chuck.
Thanks for sharing! Sweet chuck
Thanks for watching!
I remove chamfer from sockets when it is beneficial, typically to hammer smaller socket on rounded nut with proper cutting action. I spin sockets with a drill and i put then to a grinding wheel until i end up with 90 deg edge
Also i made extra short 5,5mm 1/4" socket this way, i shaved it to about 10mm to work on VW, Skoda and Seat AC heat flap actuator without dismantling whole system. Bastards put screws about 3cm from floor and servo dies randomly :v
That socket only cost me €3, so it was a no brainer to make a special for this job. I hope my Audi doesnt have the same actuator.
@@RotarySMP I repaired this problem in single temperature setting, automatic AC systems from about 2000 to about 2010. It's not too bad as dc motor dies open and comes to live few times, so trouble codes are already saved and you will feel lack of temperature control before final fault. Parts are available, in left hand drive cars job is not too bad with said socket and nice quality 1/4" driver, but with flat wrench i would loose mind as this requires laying on the floor and backing off bit by bit
@@poprawa Mine is a 2013, so hopefully not affected. Sound like a real PITA.
Cracks regardless, that is one hell of a gift :)
It really was. He donated the tool holders and the collet chuck, and I bought the power chuck.
I have a couple magnetic back dial indicators that use for machines that do not have any measurement dials…very handy for the shop
True. Although magnetic and grinding dust are a messy mix. The Clarkson has a number of features for monting stuff though, so I should have been less lazy :)
You could have probably just turned the socket on the lathe, I did it with carbide tools and it works if you buy those cheap chinesium ones, but if I had such a cool tool grinder, I would also want to use it more :)
True, that would have worked, and probably even made a nicer surface finish, but less content :)
What an amazing chuck, thats really cool to see! It took me a second to understand how it works but what a cool mechanism.
It seems like the only thing that would slow you down is changing the position of each jaw when you have a new diameter of part (not a problem for making something in bulk of course). I wonder if it would be possible to have some type of quick release/quick adjust jaws with a mechanism faster than screws to hold the jaws down. Interesting to think about, I had an idea but its hard to describe in writing haha. If you’re interested at all I could try to make a quick video showing the quick release idea, but I could be fundamentally wrong in how Im understanding this too hahaha.
Anyways thanks for the great content as always and for the comments on my videos as well! Its a big inspiration to keep making videos when someone has thoughts about what I did
Thanks!
I think if you are only doing one offs, this is not the right chuck. It is a production tool. For one off jobs, I will be using a scroll chuck, which I havent bought yet.
I guess some sot of cam overcenter device could make the jaw adjustment faster.
RotarySMP ah okay that makes more sense, thanks!
very good video rotarySMP
Thanks for your feedback.
That chuck has definitely lead a very hard life, what a shame it's been mistreated like that, but glad it's found a good "forever home" where it will be restored and put back to good use.
I hope the replacement jaws dont make it a financial write off.
@@RotarySMP Could be, unless Gamet decides to contribute. Either way it's dangerous to use chuck with cracked master jaws. Obviouly from the external appearance of this tool it has been used improperly or outright abused, a shame.
@@MRCNC1967 I wonder if it jammed due to not performed regular cleaning and maintenance, and the "fixed" it with percussive maintenance, which "worked" well enough for them to get into the habit of doing that. Glad I made this video. I nearly didnt bother, but this way at least I get a bit back out of it if it is write off.
@@RotarySMP Probably just had too high of a drawbar pressure. Looks like a major stress concentration there, some design blame too.
@@RotarySMP Several years ago a factory tech came into my shop to service one of our production CNC lathes. On the workbench next to the lathe he spots a ball peen hammer alongside other shop paraphernalia. He picked up the hammer, looked me in the eye and said, and I'm paraphrasing, "This does not belong anywhere near this machine." He also did not like air blow guns since they tend to drive chips into spots they do not belong. He took his job very seriouly and literally spent an hour just cleaning the "patient" before service. Fortunately it was a warranty visit so no skin off my wallet.
For the tool grinder, use a dial indicator on the cross slide.
I could, but it was not a precise job, so it was easier to complain than to fix it :)
re: the clarkson scale missing, a simple way would be to set a dial indicator against the cross-slide whenever you need accurate movement, maybe? thanks for the videos!
Good point, although a magnetic base is a pain with grinding dust.
@@RotarySMP Doesn’t need to be magnetic. A hole, or using the t-slot, for a suitable indicator holder of some sort. If you fancy you can even make it permanent. But you said that already in the video I think. 🙄🙈
A “Robin-Stefan-O-ring-drill motor-drive” would also be nice.
Yeah, I know. Time. To many projects already.
This is getting along really nice! 👍
@@andli461 I have an O-ring drive for cylindrical grinding on the Clarkson, but this job didn't really need it.
True, the Clarkson is not short of mount points. Since nothing was critical on that socket, it was easier to whine about missing accuracy, than to do something about it :)
@@RotarySMP Totally agree. For this job it was perfectly fine. 👌
But then you start to think…about nice features… And bang, you have a new hobby. In addition to the initial one you got the tools for in the first place. 🙄😬😂
@@andli461 It is always a danger with this hobby.
I taken apart the schunk chucks at work many times. The most pain in the butt part is to fiddle the seals on to the base jaws. It's a small opening and the seal has to sit on 3 sides of the jaw.
There are no seals on this one. There is absolutely no play in the jaws and bell crank, so until it was cleaned, the bellcrank bound up on the gunk. I can see the need for regular maintenance here.
I so hope that you get the jaws!!!! Excellent vid!
Me to. I fear that it will be a financial write off though.
very lovely chuck
It was. I hope it is not a financial write off now?
@@RotarySMP let's hope it's not
that's not just any adjustable wrench, it's the only adjustable wrench you should ever use :D
that pin thing that wouldn't come out looked like its hole had its edge slightly peened over by the stamped lettering.
Next time I have it apart, I will take more time to deburr the whole body. I was kind of rushing to finish the video.
Hello Mark,
Interesting viewing seeing the design of the chuck... Good luck with getting the sponsorship of the channel...
Take care.
Paul,,
Thanks Paul. That was more of a joke. I dont think this size channel gets sponsership.
I now know how a power chuck works. Ididnt even know that i didnt know.thanks .
I also had no clue. Turned out to be simple bell cranks.
What cleaning solution do you use in the ultrasonic cleaner?
For steel parts, I use a caustic solution. BBQ cleaner. For Aluminium, normally a citric acid based one, or a hydrocarbon solvent.
Main concern with ultrasound when talking about those material thicknesses and frequency (28 or 40 KHz for those types of cleaners) is reflection/transmission coefficients rather than attenuation (with is pretty much negligible, will be on the order of .01 db/mm). Those coefficients are determined by the parameter called specific acoustic impedance, more simply put (density times the speed of sound in the material). The higher the difference -- the less gets through. Water is about 1.4-1.5 MRayl (unit of acoustic impedance), plastics on the range of 1.5 - 3 MRayl typically, glass > 5 MRayl. So more ultrasound is reflected off of the glass.
Thanks for the feedback. So it is probably best to have the parts in a plastic container?
@@RotarySMP Yes, plastic should work better. Or if the bottom of your jar is making good contact with the metal (of the ultrasonic cleaner) just above the transducer then it shouldn't matter.
@@tyakoss Thanks for the tip.
@@RotarySMP No worries. Thanks for making great videos, loving the Schaublin series!
Those sockets usually aren't that hard. I've turned several down in a lathe, and it usually machines like butter. I was actually a bit surprised the first time.
Those 3 holes on the front are probably meant for adjustment screws to get a part to run concentric. I'd wager someone made them for that at some points through the chucks life.
I briefly considered turning that socket, but decided in favour of sparks, for better content :)
Good point. They will be handy.
+1 here, they wouldn't last long if they were hardened, iirc even HSS easily cuts them
Shame about the jaws but jeez that build quality, very nice.
The tolerances must be super tight. The "feel" on all three was very similar on three jaws and mechanisms. Doesnt seem to have had much wear, if any.
bit late to the party, but you could always put a magstand with an plunge indicator you don't mind getting dusty on the Clarkson and use that on the cross carriage to get a "better" resolution
Good tip. Thanks.
How much power can a power chuck chuck if a power chuck can chuck ... Hmm doesn't rhyme as well now that I've typed it out
But I like it. :)
Ah, chuck poetry 🙂
It earned a chuck-le out of me at least.
@@folxam that made me chuck-le
I'm not sure why you would want a powered chuck without a passthrough for stock. I'm assuming this lathe also takes 5c or equivalent style collets, that's really where the power draw tube comes in handy. The air union most certainly needs a support arm to prevent rotation, it looks like there wasn't one on there, but its definitely necessary.
Last year I made from scratch a headstock for an emco pc cnc 50 lathe last year that utilizes 5c collets, and allows an air powered draw tube to automatically draw collets in order to bar feed. it works great, I can run batches of parts unattended and work on other things. The stock chuck was actually really nice but the headstock only allowed 13mm of pass through. The new headstock I made can do 38mm, which allows a draw tube for 5c allowing up to 25mm stock to be automatically pulled through, and now i can use any 5c chucks and collets. I bought a cheap bar puller off amazon and mounted it to the cross slide, so I still retain all my (6 ;-;) tools and can bar feed.
The spindle nose is Schaublin B32 collet native. Similar size to 5C. Yeah, I had a nagging doubt about the collet closer anti rotation feature. I think I need to check my mates 125-CNC, as I might be missing a part there.
Collets will cover all the bar stock, so I guess a power chuck is used for small parts.
Did you post a thread on your Emco headstock build anywhere? I would be interested in seeing that.
@@RotarySMP No, although I could do one up on practical machinist. If I do ill let you know.
@@davidfarmer That would be cool. Please do.
With the grinder machine, could you just use a micrometer “clock” with a magnetic base, touching the axis sled? Zero it out after you measure the part so you can make an incremental move?
True, but magnetic bases and grinders is kind of messy, and this was not a precise part. For a precise move I would mount a clock with one of the many tool stop clamping features of the Clarkson.
Man i am so jealous of that Tool grinder 😀
I guess a T&C grinder is a double edge sword in a production shop. You can do all sorts of specials and regrinds with it, and especially waste a whole lot of irreplaceable time! :)
Knipex always correct tool for job :)
Very useful tool, especially around the Clarkson.
You know you are a machinist when you Can feel perfect præcision just by having the part in your hands. 😂
Maybe I should be a little more careful to edit out my nonsensical thoughts. :) Do you get to watch the Motogp, or too busy cranking out parts?
@@RotarySMP i watched abit but only on a telly. Ive been out at the local track helping my Old man. Hed racing two classes this weekend on ring Djursland. Classic super Bike on hes Suzuki gsxr 750 srad and a class on hes TZ 350. So we’ve been busy.
Also why dont i get notifications on comment replys on youtube. 🧐
@@nikolaiownz I also find YT comment engine really flakey. Wish you Dad successful races, and no crashes.
Where can I find more information on the chuck ??
I just googled Gamet power chuck, and found the maker, and contacted them. They send the data sheet.
Nice gifts you got! Didn't think the power chuck could crack the jaws by itself (maybe got some external incitement, when locked). With a bit of luck, you may get a new set jaws - your channel has now enough exposure to attract this kind of sponsoring 🙂
You mentioned ND testing on aviation industry - do you also use ultrasonic crack detection?
PS: I have this feeling that the nameplate will not be ready before the machine is up and running. Have you tried a stiff toothbrush with typical household cleaners?
Ultrasonic inspection is also used. All the various NDT methods are used somewhere in the process chain.
The chuck does not seem to have any wear, but the external marks are not those of a caring owner. Wonder how the causes the crack initiation?
@@RotarySMP Thanks. Yep, the lack of care (maybe it came from a school) brought me to suspect a hard dig-in of the tool when turning - that could create the forces capable of cracking the jaws. Wonder if you can resurface the chuck body, prior to install the new jaws.
@@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT I way also thinking that a skim cut on the face and circumference would improve it's looks dramatically. Still, it might be beyond economic repair.
@@RotarySMP Yep, you're probably right.
Dial indicator on the table of the clarkson might do the job for now.
True.
You almost sound excited that you found some cracks, because now you get to manage them. Kinda twisted. --Doozer
Nah, I was pretty bummed out when I first saw that. Guess I'd collected myself by the time I set up and filmed it.
Simple adage for ultrasonic: does sound go through it well? Y/N So plastic absorbs whereas glass transmits (or even focuses) effectively. Anyways, great stuff, thanks for sharing this neat bit of kit.
Good point. Thanks for your comment.
the 125 seems like a perfect candidate to convert its way's to hydrostatic ways if you ask me ( thats my plan to try and do that on the manual one when i get mine )
They are hardened ways, and given the limited hours it will work in my hobby shop, I think it will last forever. In production I wonder how many hours till the bed is significantly worn? Given the manual way oiling, I guess the operator makes a big difference.
@@RotarySMP i don't know about box ways (they probably wear much faster) but my Mori AL2 from the 80s with linear rails has barely worn in with 35 years in production it did. Has really cranked down some parts while the original shop had a bar feeder behind it. (It has a parts catcher so you can do like a few hundred small parts unattended for example) It stops working if the oil level goes down on the automatic lubrication pump so it always had the lubrication working.
@@MF175mp Mori's reputation for excellence was well earned.
Certainly
@@RotarySMP true though sometimes they are more worn then they look ( remember from one of my old jobs we had a machine where we had to compensait in the program for the wear in the ways everytime we needed to make those parts ( if we/i didnt i was going down about 0.03mm in the middle of the part where it was only allowed 0.01mm ))
because the are flat harden ways they are perfect candidates for it ^^ since if what i have been reading on the internet its basicly harden ways where they float on a constant 0.01/0.005mm thick film of oil ( no contact and oil is non-compressseble under the sercomstances that we can put it under on earth
plus it does also requair the good practis of covering7protecting the ways anyway ( so cut off parts cant fly down and ding the ways at all or chips and dust getting stuck between the wat and sadle wearing it out faster )
but cant wait and see what your gonna do with ours when you finish it ( realy hope to see the air blast that i mentioned in a former video come to live ( could even mount some tube on the sedal with some small holes blowing at the ways to blow chips away and protect them that way in case you dont want to cover them up)
best regards from denmark
Great haul shame about the cracks 😮
Yeah, a disappointment that one.
How about a mag base and a dial indicator for the Clarkson grinder cross feed?
Good idea. I could have , should have easily done that.
Floating tubing original Schaublin @ 20:30?
If so, very bad design, I'd make some aluminium sheet metal thing, that connects the rotating part with back of machine between the belt, that prevents the tubes from rubbing at the belt pulley.
The tubing in the original design is alot more rigid so you can expect it stay in place, still not a very good design.
I think I am missing a part. There must be an anti rotation feature.
Haven't they yet invented tubular wrenches there in Ostria? We use them a lot here in Mordor.
I am sure they are there, but you know, you get used to what you have.
I hear swiss-knife talking!
You don't use flat-blade screwdriver on Phillips screws, do you? I know it is illegal in Germany, but they say Austria is much more liberal.
@@TheZzziggy Only on the really big phillips :)
is WD50 the aviation version of WD40?
It is the canadian version :)
ua-cam.com/video/Jfq3c4Cf1Fs/v-deo.html
...must be 10 better.
Never knew it was cammed like that. Didn't seem like it would work to have hydraulics going through the chuck, just didn't know this was how it was done
Me neither. Pretty simple mechanism, but very close tolerances.
the 380 on the ID plate is way cleaner after this round.
That is a victory then.
The answer is always "more power".
After all: if you can't fix it, fuck it.
:)
“My daughter/s borrowed my set.” Sounds very familiar. I bought her sets of most everything so she wouldn’t do it. It wasn’t the borrowing, but the not returning it that was the problem.
Yep, still working on that...
Did you just fill a crusty small old chuck with Kluber? Damn! That shit is REALLY expensive. I doubt more than 5 people in my country including me have it.
PS: Also I think chucks really need the EP additives. At least that's true for scroll chucks
Yes :) The Kluber is for the Maho vertical head gears. I didnt use much here.
Gamet does recommend a Kluber grease, but not IBU 15. It is some teflon grease that the chuck needs.
use a straight joiner for the tube
I probably will. I'd have to pull the main motor to run a replacement.
That looks like quite a niche piece of kit, so I'm not sure if Gamet will be scrabbling to help you purely to get their products in front of your 20k subscribers......... Mind you, considering that I hadn't even heard of Gamet before you mentioned them here, and after a quick Google I've seen that they also do some quite interesting chucks that are more in line with what a keen hobby machinist would be looking for, it's always possible that they might be looking to extend their reach into this sector of the market, and your channel could be just the starting point to make that happen.
On the subject of subscribers, how on gods green earth have you managed to stay under having 20k of us ( I know that for some, it's quality over quantity, but at some point you're going to need to let the unwashed riff raff in as well. :D). Maybe to get more subs, you'll need to wh0re yourself out by doing the occasional colab with other UA-camrs? 🤔
Yeah, that was a joke. My guess is that companies like Gamet dont really have an advertising budget. Their products are the advert, and anyone who needs them, knows about them.
I really don't know how the algorithm works, but but the growth seems somewhat steady. Once I get the Schaublin running, it would be fun to do a colab, on the right project.
If anyone could help you make a new set of jaws it would be Robin Renzetti or Steve from Solid Rock Machine Shop. A collab with them would be really something.
@@tonyray91 I doubt they would have interest in such an work intensive project, for commercially available parts.
20:00 just use an inline coupling. 2 minutes and done.
Yeah, I probably will. To rerun that line would require pulling the main motor again.
Try superclean on the number plate piece...or gasoline ⛽️
Will do.
@@RotarySMP maybe combine approaches... like gasoline and the torch method. Just be sure the camera is recording!
@@azenginerd9498 I might get frustrated at my lack of progress at times, but not that frustrated.
👍
Thanks.
Don't pull the whole length of tubing. Just get a direct connector like festo qs-8 and replace a small length.
I think I will, otherwise I'd have to pull the motor assy to run a new one.
If you do need to replace the whole tube, you could cut the head off a bolt, or machine a serrated pin, that is tight fit in the tube and use it to connect the new tube to the old one. Then use the old tube to pull the new tube through the machine, like fishing wires through a wall.
@@jamiestotz2516 Good point.
@@RotarySMP also consider using a right angled connector just above the sleeve to give you a better angle.
@@Rockroxxgert Thanks for the tip.
Next time you need to modify a socket, just throw it in the lathe. They are not that hard, and machine nicely.
I considered it, but needed the sparks for the visually arroused :)
It looks like the 301413 and 380 got cleaner
I am not sure what that means?
Just machine the chamfer on the socket off on your lathe lol.
I would have, but not enough sparks for this content :)
@@RotarySMP Ha! Works for me.
Just braze them up and they’re good for another 100k mikes.
...otherwise known as anneal them, and have them jam :) These are extremely close tolerance parts.
why do i have to watch some stoogie fidling with wrong tools about good piecr ofmachinery
Clearly if you are asking me, then I need to advise that you don’t have to watch. Thanks for watching, and leaving a comment for the algorithm. Much appreciated
Since steel is heavily recycled and nobody really sorts it by grade before doing so the quality of steels is slowly being pushed up across the board, mostly due to high manganese content.
I guess that makes sense. I was kind of wondering how they alloy steels to specific standards, given the ore and scrap which goes in at the start of the process.
I guess for the highest grades, of closely controlled steels for things like landing gears, or nuclear components, they start with only the purest ores, and dont add scrap.
@@RotarySMP Specific alloy melts of iron and steel are usually done by tapping off a sample of melted metal and analysing it "on the fly" before adding ingots of alloying metals or oresands for extra silicon, phosphorus etc. It can happen that there's too much of a particular element in a melt -- one foundry I did work for where they made paper-making rollers, they once melted a big batch of SG cast iron using a lot of scrap railway track which they got cheap. The 150 tonnes of melt in the two crucibles ended up with way too much manganese (which provided the railway track with abrasion resistance). They couldn't correct for this excess since they could only add elements, not extract them. They had to pour the 150 tonnes out as manganese-rich pigs, carefully label them and use them up in later jobs.
@@robertsneddon731 That is a great story. I bet it messed up the production schedule a bit to have to pig that batch.
@@RotarySMP Oh yes... the company (no longer with us, unfortunately) made rollers for paper-making machinery with some of the bigger ones weighing 150 tonnes each. The drums were cast to very exact specifications given they were expected to spin at 600rpm for decades and a large drum failing in operation due to a flaw or material defect would have resulted in very costly downtime, if not a disaster (lots of stored energy in a large spinning drum after all).
Spheroidal Graphite iron (SG iron) is a mechanically strong cast iron, made by heat-treating and thermally soaking the item as it cools down but the elemental makeup of the molten iron is very important. Fascinating stuff, it was only "invented" in the 1940s as a cheaper substitute for steel in some applications.
@@robertsneddon731 600 RPM on a 150T drum is a terrifying flywheel.
Hiding screws under the grease nipple...that's just evil.
Yep, glad I asked for the manual. Given how beaten it is, and the burrs, but also a precision mechanism, it is hard to know how much force to use to disassemble. Easy to miss a set screw or something.
On a airplane yes not with a chuck
Thanks for watching. :)
Not just British - but possibly the worst machine tool ever made! Get something to compliment the Maho and Schaublin!
Have you had bad experience with the Clarkson? I kind of like mucking around with it, but I am no pro, and is worn enough that the surface finishes are not great.
@@RotarySMP I must have had half a dozen of them through my hands in the early days. Just terrible things IMO. You mention wear - that's one of the principle design flaws. They are so badly designed that ingress of grit is an inevitability. Every machine I had was completely worn out. In some ways the design is simple and clever, but it has more in common with 19th century machine tool design than the post-war era and certainly can't be regarded as a precision instrument. The MKIII machine branded as "March" (the actual makers) was considerably better and used properly protected linear bearings for ways.
I'm not saying that an unworn machine won't do the job, but I don't think that's the reason that you, me and my customers buy Swiss and German machine tools.
I'm also not implying that Britain did not produce some extremely fine machine tools - we certainly did, just look at Dean Smith and Grace or Holbrook lathes or Jones and Shipman grinders. A better alternative to the Clarkson is the nice little Union machine or the more developed Boxford. However, on the continent you are spoilt for choice. Walter made a lovely small machine, and any of the Saake grinders are superb - all quite big though. Lots of other German manufacturers made lovely machines and some of the Swiss makers like HARO (Robert Habib) are in a league of their own.
I just realised how negative my comment was! Even though I've played about with Swiss machine tools for 30 years, I very much enjoy your videos, keep up the good work!!!