THE FACE, Lenzspitze
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- Royal traverse of Mt. Blanc in 2014 was supposed to be our last mountain climbing adventure in the Alps. But two years later my friend and climbing partner Petr came up with the idea of last big climb.. ice climb...
First plan was to do Pallavicinirinne , ice climb of Glockner massif, but we had to reconsider that as our holiday were in July which is not a good time for this route.
Then Petr offered me the north/east face of Lenzspitze. The same type of climb, graded even higher, but more suitable for July
I wasn't thrilled about that, as I am better/feel more confident on the rock than ice + I had my accident in Scottish highlands in winter 2015. I fell in an avalanche 200m in central gully of Bideanand survived miraculously..
However I finally agreed when I saw Petr's excitement and drive for it as all the other projects/climbs in the past was more or less my ideas driven by me so we both felt its his choice now. When the time came I was feeling excited and more familiar with the climb, but still worried as well..
It wasn't our greatest climb but climbing the face was our most technically difficult climb in the Alps. Not too bad achievement for two amateur climbers.. BUT NEVER MORE:-]
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Thanks a lot, very exciting! What makes the ascent so technical? Its mostly straightforward / Snow ice or does it involve tricky rock sections?
Thanks for watching and commenting. The face is mostly straightforward with wee climb over big crevasse at the start + maybe few mixed ice/rocky bits in lower half but nothing serious. The angle is 56 degrees, higher up is usually more icy.. For me it was hard but I only had old hiking boots with old crampons on it.. Top half of my big toes was black afterwards and nails went off...:-] The ridge to Nadelhorn after the face involves one abseil and couple of vertical easy climbs but at that stage you are tired and with heavy rucksack.. its a challenging climb, for me it was anyway. Cheers
Thanks for the insights! I did not want to doubt the difficulty. only asked out of curiosity because I feel really drawn to this face :D
Amanzing! I will try it!
Thanks. Good Luck!
Absolutely amazing... Respect 👏 atb Brian 👍
A bit of Alpine climbing to entertain my viewers:-] Just kidding.. thanks for watching and commenting.
Wow! Bravo! Respect!
Cheers
Beautiful, inspiring stuff 👍🏴
Thank you
PŘEKRÁSNÉ...a takový fajn kámoši 😍
Very beautiful and inspiring!!! Congratulations!
Thank you
Wow, what an achievement. Nerves of steel.
Thank you
Pretty crazy. Great video!
Respekt a klobouček dolů kluci.
Perfekt 👍
zdravím vedoucího expedice, kluci jste borci:-)
Gratuluji, moc pěkné :)
Velkej respekt!
Omg the DRAMA, amazing. My younger brother is very good climber Jonas. Cheers.
Thanks Dave.
Respekt, super video.