Do a leak down test on that seal after you do this. If seal is bad you need to pull motor and pull off bottom of crankcase to properly install a new brand new seal. A new one will not push in without wrecking it.
@@skidooman97 leaking coolant is a whole different issue. Sounds like time to tear out motor and do all new gaskets. May as well split bottom end case to reseal it and do oil seals to.
@@skidooman97 to do leak down test you need to pressurize the crank case. I take carbs off and fit a plug with a schrader valve and a gauge threaded into it and clamp it into carb boot. Pressuize it with 10lb is plenty and watch the gauge. If it drops you have a problem. My clutch side crank seal was leaking. Can see it if you use soap and water and spray it on seal where crank comes through. Will make bubbles. To make this work though you need to seal exhaust as well. Remove y pipe and make a cover/gasket for exaust and secure it but bolting y pipe back on.
There is a 1/4 inch pipe with a red cap on it behind the clutch on the crankcase to grease the pto bearings. Just add some grease every 2000-3000 miles. The other side is much more difficult, you have to take off the recoil pull the flywheel and add grease through the top stator bolt hole after removing one of the bottom stator bolts. That side needs to be greased, but not as often. The best way is to pull the engine and split the cases though.
You can thank the EPA constantly requiring tighter emissions. They stopped oiling to reduce emissions afaik. I'm aware they are now oiling the 850 again, but i think it uses so little oil they can keep their emissions in check.
You’ve obviously never worked on anything built in the last 20 years with an engine and efficiency in mind. Not grammatically correct but you know what I mean. They used to be simple. But they aren’t anymore.
Nicely done! I am wondering, did you replace the old fuel hoses simply because they were to old an dirty, or do the new ones have a bigger diameter? Or they just much better? Regards Tobias/Sweden
Hi thanks for watching! I don’t believe I changed the fuel hoses on that sled unless maybe I’m forgetting something? I usually just replace stuff that looks old without thinking much lol. But this specifically I do not remember
Why not use a solvent or brake clean to remove the old grease from the bearing? Is the Isoflex the manufacturer's recommended grease? Or one you believe is better? The syringe method is very useful, is wearing nitrile gloves and packing the grease with your fingers not as effective? Thank you for this video!
Idk it just felt wrong at the time. But others here have said it’s not an issue. Just did what I thought was best. And the syringe seemed like a very effective method to get it all into the crevices and squeeze out as much old brown grease as possible. Worked quite well. As far as I know that exact isoflex grease is exactly what is used from OEM. It is pricey though.
I can confirm that isoflex grease doesn't dissolve in either brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol. I did a test by taking some of the old grease and putting it in containers with liquids. The only thing that dissolved it was WD-40. Other solvents I don't have might work as well of course.
Coming from someone who knows nothing about snowmobiles, this video was useless bc you weren’t specific on what you were doing at all. What you took apart, where it’s located on the snowmobile, why you did what you did, or even what it’s called??? etc. Just got a new Skidoo and trying to learn how to properly maintain it.
This was one of my first videos ever and I made it to help a friend but I did write it in the description. I’m very sorry Johnney. I’ll try to do better.
@Buildcultureyoutube i wouldn't of even responded to such a dumb comment man..the vid was perfectly fine for what you was showing..if this person ☝️ cant see that this is the pto shaft side where the primary clutch mounts..then he shouldn't be working on his sled anyway..such a rude comment towards someone taking time to show how to grease a crank bearing 🤦♂️
Forgot to add*
For the water trick: the sled needs to be on it’s side obviously so the water doesn’t just pour out
They couldn't just run an oil line to the bearing for priority lubrication? After all,it is the crank. Cool engineering BRP.
I believe that's how the 850s are setup.
Great video! i do this every year too all my sleds just incase behind the first set of bearings there is another set behind.
Driving a skidoo will with 100% certainty blow your crank...most garbage pos designed cranks ever...but hey you use less oil right? 😂😂😂
I thought everything about skidoo was good and Polaris bad? Guess not.
How can you blow up a motor
Not true
Prove it.
Do a leak down test on that seal after you do this. If seal is bad you need to pull motor and pull off bottom of crankcase to properly install a new brand new seal. A new one will not push in without wrecking it.
How do u preform this test @Junorr500. I did this job about 1500miles ago and now i noticed coolant seeping out of bottom end headgasket .
@@skidooman97 leaking coolant is a whole different issue. Sounds like time to tear out motor and do all new gaskets. May as well split bottom end case to reseal it and do oil seals to.
@@skidooman97 to do leak down test you need to pressurize the crank case. I take carbs off and fit a plug with a schrader valve and a gauge threaded into it and clamp it into carb boot. Pressuize it with 10lb is plenty and watch the gauge. If it drops you have a problem. My clutch side crank seal was leaking. Can see it if you use soap and water and spray it on seal where crank comes through. Will make bubbles. To make this work though you need to seal exhaust as well. Remove y pipe and make a cover/gasket for exaust and secure it but bolting y pipe back on.
There is isoflex on the mag side also, done thru stator screws, later models have it in the inner bearings as well.
Yes forgot to mention that! This side wears faster because of heat
@Build Culture no, PTO side wears faster due to the belt load...most bearing failure on pto side....it's the opposite on seadoo's
There is a 1/4 inch pipe with a red cap on it behind the clutch on the crankcase to grease the pto bearings. Just add some grease every 2000-3000 miles. The other side is much more difficult, you have to take off the recoil pull the flywheel and add grease through the top stator bolt hole after removing one of the bottom stator bolts. That side needs to be greased, but not as often. The best way is to pull the engine and split the cases though.
What about the big crack in the casting outside the bearing 3 o’clock position
I believe that’s where the 2 pieces of the case meet. I can see how it can look like a crack now that I look at it lol
That IS the crankcases face joints. It split horizontally.
Great video, nice trick with the Syringe
You need the syringe... shop manual even says so, should only have so many ML in the bearing
great way to repack bearings!!
what a terrible design, I'm glad I've got the 850
Problem is you only did one side
Why did Ski Doo design the 800r this way? Whoever did should be fired immediately
What specifically?
@@Buildcultureyoutube he is referring to the isoflex grease design instead of using the two stroke oil like the new ones do
You can thank the EPA constantly requiring tighter emissions. They stopped oiling to reduce emissions afaik. I'm aware they are now oiling the 850 again, but i think it uses so little oil they can keep their emissions in check.
@@BuildcultureyoutubeSupposed to be 15 ML not the whole 50 gram tube.
You’ve obviously never worked on anything built in the last 20 years with an engine and efficiency in mind. Not grammatically correct but you know what I mean. They used to be simple. But they aren’t anymore.
Nicely done! I am wondering, did you replace the old fuel hoses simply because they were to old an dirty, or do
the new ones have a bigger diameter? Or they just much better? Regards Tobias/Sweden
Hi thanks for watching! I don’t believe I changed the fuel hoses on that sled unless maybe I’m forgetting something? I usually just replace stuff that looks old without thinking much lol. But this specifically I do not remember
Why not use a solvent or brake clean to remove the old grease from the bearing? Is the Isoflex the manufacturer's recommended grease? Or one you believe is better? The syringe method is very useful, is wearing nitrile gloves and packing the grease with your fingers not as effective? Thank you for this video!
Idk it just felt wrong at the time. But others here have said it’s not an issue. Just did what I thought was best.
And the syringe seemed like a very effective method to get it all into the crevices and squeeze out as much old brown grease as possible. Worked quite well.
As far as I know that exact isoflex grease is exactly what is used from OEM. It is pricey though.
@@Buildcultureyoutube Thank you!
Don’t think the grease will stay white once it’s used.
It won’t. That’s why the old grease is brown. 💩
Great video does this apply on a 2015 MXZ x 800R ecotec? Thanks
I wouldn’t want to give you the wrong answer but hopefully someone knowledgeable can chime in!
Good job
I have seen 600SDI engines go 30,000 with ever being apart. Same Isoflex
The 800's don't go that far without replacing Iso.
@Steve Campbell true, about 10-12kms on an 800...but about the same as any 800
Wh6 would u not use brale clean?
Was worried about it messing with the new lubricant
I can confirm that isoflex grease doesn't dissolve in either brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol.
I did a test by taking some of the old grease and putting it in containers with liquids. The only thing that dissolved it was WD-40.
Other solvents I don't have might work as well of course.
Nice!
how often should i do this?
Once a year is recommended. That being said, my sled has 6200 miles on it and I think this was the first time 😳
Do you know if this still applies to the 2023 600 EFI engines? Thanks
At this moment I don’t know, but hoping someone can chime in and help you answer this!
buy the proper tools .
You can buy them for me!
Looked like he got the job done just fine..you make a vid doing this and use the "proper" tools 👍
Coming from someone who knows nothing about snowmobiles, this video was useless bc you weren’t specific on what you were doing at all. What you took apart, where it’s located on the snowmobile, why you did what you did, or even what it’s called??? etc. Just got a new Skidoo and trying to learn how to properly maintain it.
This was one of my first videos ever and I made it to help a friend but I did write it in the description.
I’m very sorry Johnney. I’ll try to do better.
@Buildcultureyoutube i wouldn't of even responded to such a dumb comment man..the vid was perfectly fine for what you was showing..if this person ☝️ cant see that this is the pto shaft side where the primary clutch mounts..then he shouldn't be working on his sled anyway..such a rude comment towards someone taking time to show how to grease a crank bearing 🤦♂️
Just turning the engine on will blow up a ski doo don't believe me I have owned several ski doo snowmobiles go buy one don't forget the tow rope
Me too,just like their Sea doo watercrafts,you get to know the BRP service department team on a first name basis.