this weekend i was out of town with a pretty basic toolbox in my trunk. my front passenger CV axle blew up at the wheel end. i pulled the CV axle and stub out of the transaxle and limped to harbor freight for a breaker bar and 1 1/4" socket. then to advance auto parts for the CV axle. with $120 in parts and tools, and the help of this video, i fixed it myself in a bank parking lot on a sunday afternoon 100 miles from home. Thank you.
Not only did the video look great, not only was it annotated and evenly exposed, not only did you do this completely correctly, you managed to get the whole video uploaded with under 10 minutes of watch time. DAMN. Great job.
Best style of video for these types of things. No talking to distract, simple written dialog, great views and step by step. I will come back to your videos for any issue I can fix myself.
Great tutorial. Nice tips, especially using the weight of the car to break lose the axle bolt. I also liked the how we could hear the sounds of the install, but the instructions were printed on the video. Nice touch.
I just did it myself a couple hours ago. I had a hard time with the roll pin so I just duct tape it to the punch till it was far enough in to remove the tape. Otherwise i followed step by step and the only thing I ended up needing was someone to put weight on the lower control arm, push it down to get the cv axle into the hub. Thank you for the video!
Good video, but just FYI, according to the service manual, the axle nut should be torqued with the wheel off the ground and the brake applied. It states this is because the bearing could be damaged during the torquing process. I highly doubt that would happen, but figured I would mention it.
Just replaced the driver's side front axle on my '03 LL Bean. This was an invaluable aid, got the job done quick and easy. Much better than when I bought the car and had a shop replace the passenger side, I kid you not they tried billing me for extra labor because "we couldn't figure out how the axle came out, 'Murican cars aren't like dat".
Great video! Just wanted to mention (and you did it right) - apparently the axle nut should only be loosened and not removed when the wheel in on the car as it may damage the wheel bearings to remove it completely when loaded with the weight of the car. So, only remove it when the car is jacked and wheel is off, and don't short cut by taking it completely off when the wheel is on the ground.
+Malcolm Shedden yeah i have always heard that you can actually damage the interior teeth where thr axle slides in, I never seem to have gotten them off with the wheels off the ground. I always break them with all lugnets on then jack it up and remove the hubnut. I think it can really do some damage but i never noticed anything to worry about. Good luck getting a rusty old one off jacked up even with a torch.
Excellent video! You kept the camera stationary - which is important to viewers - and you added text to the video afterwards. I thought this might have been a shop-only project, but it's clear from your video that it can be a DIY job. Well done!
Well I’m impressed. All the important information I needed and no talking about things that don’t need to be discussed to change a cv shaft and then you even used a torque wrench on the lug nuts. Thank you for the knowledge.
Great video. I've only replaced a few CV axles on Subarus, but following this method was way faster and easier for me than past experiences. I've always taken out the ball joint, which most other videos show. That takes longer and is more complicated. However, the ball joint not removed does make it a little more awkward to snake the new CV axle into place, but it's still very doable, and overall it's still much faster and easier than dealing with the ball joint (in my limited experiences).
Nice clear video instructions. I would like to add a couple of little tips, having just done this task yesterday. I did the left side first and had a lot of problems getting the axle out of the hub once loose. If you move the inboard side way up and back it comes out very easily. The other problem I had (and a huge time waster) was putting the roll pin in. The holes would not line up on the splines. I tried tapering the end on a bench grinder, squeezing it in a vise, and ended up only getting it 3/4's in after much hammering. On the right side I had the same issue with the roll pin, though this time I rotated the output shaft 180 degrees and the pin went in easy peasy. the whole thing took 25 minutes on the right side. I went back to the other side, rotated 180, and the pin went straight in. Thanks.
I thanked you via a previous comment on this video, but I must say thank you again. Over the weekend I consulted your video while replacing another front axle on one of my Subarus and found your video very helpful. Thanks again for all your great Subaru repair videos, please keep them coming!
Sharp, neat, orderly, focused, simple. Perfect rendition. Damn! I wish I was a mechanic! Thanks. I retrospective: forget this; go into making Training Videos. You have all it takes.
Many thanks for this excellent video. I'm in the middle of doing mine and so far so good. I was able to remove the axle nut using the impact gun after bending the retaining nut out. My car was used in the north so the strut bolts were very difficult due to rust. PB Blast, Impact gun, breaker bar, and patience got them out.
Thanks..It went well putting it back together and I did new brake calipers and rotors at the same time. I've worked on many cars and this Subaru model seems very well designed and easy to work on. Good fun car for the home mechanic.
A couple things, make sure you've got the roll pin holes 100% correct or you'll be pounding all day and need a new roll pin. Hint: 180 degrees off won't work even though you'll see light through the hole. Also, I've usually done these by only removing the camber bolt and letting the hub tilt forward. This really is my favorite generation of Legacy/Outback to work on, before things started getting complicated.
Lao Han Tun I had an issue with the roll pin too, I couldn’t get it in because I had no way to hold it in place. So I duct taped it to a bigger punch and got it no problem. Once it was in I pull the tape of and punched it in the rest of the way.
Excellent video! No talking needed, just watch and learn! Only thing I'm confused about is why you jacked up the vehicle and removed the wheel just to pop of the center cap?
@MrSubaru1387 You’ve saved me so much money by watching you videos!!!! Love them. I own a 2001 Outback VDC, what a dream to drive. She was neglected but I am bringing her back to prime because of you!
Well I finally have to do my axle five months from when it first started clicking bad... I work and sleep in my car and I’m currently broken down next to a store. Gonna try to find an axle and do it myself tomorrow morning but I don’t have proper tools. Wish me luck
Q: can the axle shaft at the hub be tapped out BEFORE the transmission end?? The video shows it being hammered before the roll pin is punched out.....mine's stuck so was wondering if it is not coming out because it is fixed because the other end is still connected to the transmission....
Great video, I can tell you don't live in New england. this car would have had to a of rust and seized bolts every step of the way. Again thanks for the clear video you just got another subscriber.👍
So I'm having trouble with a local automotive shop that I clearly made a mistake by going to but one of my clients recommended it and her boyfriend works there. Well turns out my 15 year old daughter who only knows how to check the air in the tires and put gas in our cars and start them likely knows more about automotive repair or functions of parts than these people and this is more my shock at speaking with the general manager and his lack of knowledge more than anything. Unfortunately the guy who I trust with my car here in NC needs back surgery and his 22 year old son had recently been killed in a motorcycle accident so I didn't want to bother him. I knew that the one issue was my driver's side CV axle and I watched him replace my passenger side a year ago like it was nothing so I figured I'd be ok taking something so simple to this place. Also my ac blower motor and resistor had just been replaced by me and was blowing like a champ, ice cold air until I stopped and idled for a few minutes and that's a big issue because I transport clients dogs and it's hot here in Southeastern NC, well you know SC is the same way. Anyhow so I figured I'd ask them to check that and help me figure out what that would need. Also the boyfriend is the 65 year old little bi*ch boy that is basically a receptionist that schedules appointments and calls clients. He was also a client whose dog was routinely picked up by me and id think that AC issue would concern him as well. Well I clearly shouldn't assume these things. Initially he didn't relay to the mechanics to check the AC, I just happened to ask the mechanic when I had gone back up there and he was clueless and said he'd check it. Well the next day I called to pay for my car and I ask about the AC and he swore they added a bit of frion and it never blew warm air the whole time. I guess I'm special because it sure as fu*k continues this pattern daily. So I pick my car up and I keep thinking I'm hearing a noise but can't quite be sure until it got Louder over the next week coming from that same hub area on the driver's side. This shit show goes on to include lies and replacing the passenger side cv axle after not driving it to hear the noise and just assuming that it must be the issue. Well they had to give me that "damaged" axle back so I could return to the parts store because it had a lifetime warranty and had been replaced last year. Also I'm very aware of what a cv axle sounds like going bad so they are most definitely not thinking ahead while lying. I go to return that damaged allegedly visually, a torn boot, and thus the reason they assumed. So me and the commercial parts manager open it up and shockingly we apparently lack the xray vision required to see.any damage. And yet the noise remains. So.i go to my normal mechanic and ask him to listen as I drove away and he said it sounds like the axel isn't seated properly. Wellll after 2 weeks and 2 voice mails to the general manager because I'm very stressed about the possibility of this being the case and causing damage to my transmission, let alone the fact I paid for labor to replace a part that wasn't damaged and they lied to me about. Well I finally speak with this general manager who tells me that it wouldn't be drivable if it weren't seated correctly, which I believe to be BS. I believe it to be quite possible and potentially damage my transmission. Am I wrong? Since that discussion a week ago I've done extensive research and the reviews about this place are numerous stories just like my own. My client, who I was trying hard to tactfully deal with telling her everything, was not happy and when she asked him that evening what was going on with my car he accused her of lying lol. She promptly booted him out.
Great video. Thank you. 1) if I needed to replace lower ball joints while I was doing the axles, could I remove the ball joints instead of the camber bolts? 2) What is your opinion of rebuilding the axles opposed to buying reman./new? 3) What brand axles did you buy? Thank you again!
+c10seth you're welcome. 1) probably need to remove both for the clearance. 2) I've never rebuilt, only replaced. 3) Used a Tough one from Advance Auto Parts.
Awesome work, liked the camera job. Only thing, the axle pins are the hardest part in my opinion because the access is frustrating, wish that was also on camera too.
It's really not that hard with the correctly sized roll pin punch, as long as the vehicle isn't rusted. Thankfully I live in the south and rust isn't an issue. I apologize for not showing the process on video, but due to the limited area, angle, and size of the camera I was using it wasn't possible to video that part of the repair.
I loved the video. Proper techniques, easily understandable, and well documented. Thank you for this. I will use this in my DIY repair. Just as curiosity, were you using torque limiting socket for the lug nuts?
+MrSoulMonk Awesome, glad to help. No, I just snugged them down with the impact. Didn't use full power installing them so I could torque them properly with the torque wrench after.
Brilliant video, nicely edited, annotated and highlights all of the steps clearly and simply, thanks for sharing. If I don't have a a 'roll pin punch' what size is that punch? Also, can this be feasible without removing the spindle bolts?
Hey, the forester 99 has the brake line inside a metal hole next to the strut. What I did to take it out was grinded out out on both the new ones and old ones and it worked so far. But it looks like you have to disconnect the brake line and I did that because I didnt know how to bleed brakes.
Great video as always, thanks! I am getting ready to do this on my son's 2003 L.L. Bean and was wondering if it needed a gasket / seal on the differential. I now my 2017 did when I changed the axle on it. Also, what part number is the axle spring / roll pin? Thank you!
Great video. One suggestion would be to let folks know what size socket for axle nut . Is it 32mm ? And also the other nuts. Only because some people don't own full metric sets and will just purchase what's needed when they pick up axles at the parts store. Just a suggestion. Thanks!
That was a great video. I have a 92 Subaru legacy that needs either CV axle or wheel bearing. Any tips to figure out which I need to replace or both? Thanks for the info!
would this be the same on a 2002 WRX? it looks like the most difficult part is actually removing the old axle. is there a trick to this? or is it not as hard as it looks? Thank you
I have an European 2007 Outback 3.0 5EAT and I wanted to change both front CV Axle. I bought aftermarket SKF VKJC 7515 which is the equivalent of my 28321AG022. The change was made in a subaru shop and they did not noticed anything. When I wanted to get my car I noticed that immediately after putting the car in drive, all the car started to shake a lot even if I was keeping my foot on the brake pedal... They were puzzled and said it might be from the transmission mount which might be the problem. They ordered that mount and I drove the car shaking for 3 weeks until the mount arrived. But before changing the mount, I asked to put back the old original axle. Surprise, surprise, mostly for them, no shaking any more... I measured the axle compressed and the SKF one was 5mm longer... This should be the problem? Are there other axle better than SKF (except original ones that are hard to find and very expensive)? What do you recommend?
You can remove those little center caps with 2 razor blades as "pry bars" haha that certain type of center cap is impossible to pry off with a little screw driver so I understand why u did that but try 2 razor blades! Love your vids man
Great Videos! WRX - 2009 I've got a thumping sound when I make left u-turns. Replaced the front axles where it seemed like the noise was coming from. Replace rear differential fluid. Still have the noise, not as bad. Any thoughts/suggestions?
I have to do this on a 01 outback with a manual trans. I have a leaking output/cv axle oil seal. Is that seal replaceable without removing the differential bearing adjuster?
Watching this video after having this repair done after my CV axle fell out of the differential while at high speed on the highway, and after watching I'm exceptionally confused as to how that could have happened...
It looks like Subaru has discontinued production of the front axles, at least for my 02 year model, and the reman program also stopped a few yeara ago. I'm wondering if you MrSubaru prefer or recommend one of the aftermarket axle manufacturers? There's so much debate online and I'd like to hear your 2 cents. Thank you!
Hi MrSubaru1387, excellent video! I am going to replace the driver's side CV axle on my 2010 outback soon. 2 questions if you don't mind? 1. this OB has less than 74,000 miles - isn't that a bit early to fail? also, #2: is there any advantage/disadvantage to removing the lower control arm instead of the camber bolt? Thanks again for the excellent video!
Not really, I just replaced the driver's front CV axle on my 60k mile 2014 Outback due to a ruptured boot. The video will actually be up tomorrow afternoon. Idk. I've always gone by the factory service manual and removed the strut bolts. You're welcome. 👍🏻
It all depends on your location. If you live/ the vehicle has lived in a corrosion area you're going to have issues removing the ball joint and it's probably going to be easier to go the strut route.
Noticed that you did not replace the transmission oil seal while replacing the transaxle. I need to replace my right side shaft. The rubber boot has failed and it is leaking a lot of oil. Any ideas? Thanks for the excellent vid.
Excellent video as usual! Your Torque settings don't match with what I have and frankly I'm a little confused what to go with. For my Australian Suby Outback Limited 10/1998 (BH9 -EJ251) my Gregory's service & repair manual states Torque Settings for; ''Front driveaxle nut - Legacy and Outback - 2004 and earlier models.......159 Ft-lbs or 216 Nm.'' Conversely the Service manual from jdmfsm website of which I had to get the 2000 version to fit my vehicle states - Legacy/ Outback = 186 Nm. The 2001 version states for 2.5L = 186Nm and for 3.0L = "216 Nm" - (same as stated in my Gregory's manual.) So I guess we have from 137.2 Ft lbs (186 Nm) to 159 Ft lbs (216 Nm) for the Front Axle Nut. I mean do Aussie vehicles require heavier gear and torque specs for suspension? The rear end has those Self Levelling rear shocks with the fat bottom end = ''P/N 20365AE020'' KYB both sides same. Do I trust my Gregory's manual? There are mistakes in there.
this weekend i was out of town with a pretty basic toolbox in my trunk. my front passenger CV axle blew up at the wheel end. i pulled the CV axle and stub out of the transaxle and limped to harbor freight for a breaker bar and 1 1/4" socket. then to advance auto parts for the CV axle. with $120 in parts and tools, and the help of this video, i fixed it myself in a bank parking lot on a sunday afternoon 100 miles from home. Thank you.
Glad to help. 👍🏻
Not only did the video look great, not only was it annotated and evenly exposed, not only did you do this completely correctly, you managed to get the whole video uploaded with under 10 minutes of watch time. DAMN. Great job.
+Uriah Graves thank you so much! Glad you enjoyed the video!
Agreed - the editing was top notch!
@@bradpool127
U😅
Best style of video for these types of things. No talking to distract, simple written dialog, great views and step by step. I will come back to your videos for any issue I can fix myself.
Great tutorial. Nice tips, especially using the weight of the car to break lose the axle bolt. I also liked the how we could hear the sounds of the install, but the instructions were printed on the video. Nice touch.
+David Aurzada glad you enjoyed the video.
I just did it myself a couple hours ago. I had a hard time with the roll pin so I just duct tape it to the punch till it was far enough in to remove the tape. Otherwise i followed step by step and the only thing I ended up needing was someone to put weight on the lower control arm, push it down to get the cv axle into the hub. Thank you for the video!
Good video, but just FYI, according to the service manual, the axle nut should be torqued with the wheel off the ground and the brake applied. It states this is because the bearing could be damaged during the torquing process. I highly doubt that would happen, but figured I would mention it.
P.S. I see someone else already mentioned this. Great channel! Unfortunately beat me to a lot of my coming content. ;)
@@802Garage party pooper!
@@dahaze140 Bahahaha 6 year throwback!
I guess I didn't know back then that MrSubaru was THE man.
one of the most thorough DIY video I've ever watched
Glad you found it helpful.
Just replaced the driver's side front axle on my '03 LL Bean. This was an invaluable aid, got the job done quick and easy. Much better than when I bought the car and had a shop replace the passenger side, I kid you not they tried billing me for extra labor because "we couldn't figure out how the axle came out, 'Murican cars aren't like dat".
Great video! Just wanted to mention (and you did it right) - apparently the axle nut should only be loosened and not removed when the wheel in on the car as it may damage the wheel bearings to remove it completely when loaded with the weight of the car. So, only remove it when the car is jacked and wheel is off, and don't short cut by taking it completely off when the wheel is on the ground.
+Malcolm Shedden yeah i have always heard that you can actually damage the interior teeth where thr axle slides in, I never seem to have gotten them off with the wheels off the ground. I always break them with all lugnets on then jack it up and remove the hubnut. I think it can really do some damage but i never noticed anything to worry about. Good luck getting a rusty old one off jacked up even with a torch.
Oh, beat me to this comment. XD
Excellent video! You kept the camera stationary - which is important to viewers - and you added text to the video afterwards. I thought this might have been a shop-only project, but it's clear from your video that it can be a DIY job. Well done!
Thanks, glad to help.
Love watching your how to videos on Subaru. I've got an older one and may need to refer to these someday. Thumb up.
Well I’m impressed. All the important information I needed and no talking about things that don’t need to be discussed to change a cv shaft and then you even used a torque wrench on the lug nuts. Thank you for the knowledge.
Great video. I've only replaced a few CV axles on Subarus, but following this method was way faster and easier for me than past experiences. I've always taken out the ball joint, which most other videos show. That takes longer and is more complicated. However, the ball joint not removed does make it a little more awkward to snake the new CV axle into place, but it's still very doable, and overall it's still much faster and easier than dealing with the ball joint (in my limited experiences).
Glad to help!
The ball joint removal, while more difficult, eliminates the risk of needing a wheel alignment. Swings and roundabouts.
Nice clear video instructions. I would like to add a couple of little tips, having just done this task yesterday.
I did the left side first and had a lot of problems getting the axle out of the hub once loose. If you move the inboard side way up and back it comes out very easily.
The other problem I had (and a huge time waster) was putting the roll pin in. The holes would not line up on the splines. I tried tapering the end on a bench grinder, squeezing it in a vise, and ended up only getting it 3/4's in after much hammering. On the right side I had the same issue with the roll pin, though this time I rotated the output shaft 180 degrees and the pin went in easy peasy. the whole thing took 25 minutes on the right side. I went back to the other side, rotated 180, and the pin went straight in.
Thanks.
+pellcio you're welcome. 8
you really keep things simple by not doing a lot of talking and keeping the camera still..keep up the good work
+option man thanks. Glad you enjoyed the video.
This video is really well done! I followed along on my 2001 Subaru, and I was able to complete the project easily. Thank you for your great work.
Awesome. Glad I was able to help. 👍
Why not just remove the complete Half shaft and change the stub on the bench?
This is the perfect video. No bullshit like blasting radio or stupid jokes. Just hits every point.
Thank you. Glad you found it helpful.
Best DIY video on this topic. Other videos had guys pulling all sorts of other stuff off. This was quick and easy. Thanks!
+Mike6sic6 glad to help. 👍
I thanked you via a previous comment on this video, but I must say thank you again. Over the weekend I consulted your video while replacing another front axle on one of my Subarus and found your video very helpful. Thanks again for all your great Subaru repair videos, please keep them coming!
+bertmaster2000 you're welcome. Glad to help. 👍
Watching this again after I did the job. Oops didn't remove brake or abs line. Still came out and went in easy doing it like this. Thanks 🇭🇲🐨👍🏼
Sharp, neat, orderly, focused, simple. Perfect rendition. Damn! I wish I was a mechanic! Thanks. I retrospective: forget this; go into making Training Videos. You have all it takes.
Thank you. 👍🏻 I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Your video is really helpful, I have a problem with the 1995 subaru impreza and don't know how to fix it, your video is very useful.
Many thanks for this excellent video. I'm in the middle of doing mine and so far so good. I was able to remove the axle nut using the impact gun after bending the retaining nut out. My car was used in the north so the strut bolts were very difficult due to rust. PB Blast, Impact gun, breaker bar, and patience got them out.
+Vince L glad to help. Best of luck getting the rest of the job finished. Rust is a pain!
Thanks..It went well putting it back together and I did new brake calipers and rotors at the same time. I've worked on many cars and this Subaru model seems very well designed and easy to work on. Good fun car for the home mechanic.
+Vince L that they are. Glad your project went well. 👍
Mr. Subaru is the best. You always have the tutorials I’m looking for. Thanks so much man!
A couple things, make sure you've got the roll pin holes 100% correct or you'll be pounding all day and need a new roll pin. Hint: 180 degrees off won't work even though you'll see light through the hole. Also, I've usually done these by only removing the camber bolt and letting the hub tilt forward. This really is my favorite generation of Legacy/Outback to work on, before things started getting complicated.
CV joint is quite straight forward...only roll pin part difficult. Thanks.....
Lao Han Tun I had an issue with the roll pin too, I couldn’t get it in because I had no way to hold it in place. So I duct taped it to a bigger punch and got it no problem. Once it was in I pull the tape of and punched it in the rest of the way.
My wrx has a bad front driver side axle...thanks for the video i feel more confident knocking that out in the summer
Just the video needed to readjust my cv axle in my Forester. Definitely have to make sure it is seated properly. Great work Mr. Subaru!
Excellent video! No talking needed, just watch and learn!
Only thing I'm confused about is why you jacked up the vehicle and removed the wheel just to pop of the center cap?
Thanks a lot for all the how to videos. They're clear and concise and I've used several of them to work on the Subaru Outback that I tow behind my RV.
+Ginny Borgia awesome. Glad to be of help.
I need to do this on my girlfriends 02 outback. After watching your vid, I can approach it with a lot more confidence. Thank you.
Glad that I could help.
I did the work yesterday. Smooth as silk. This is what the internet is for. Thanks again.
Pete Hansen Perfect. Glad to have helped once again.
@MrSubaru1387 You’ve saved me so much money by watching you videos!!!! Love them. I own a 2001 Outback VDC, what a dream to drive. She was neglected but I am bringing her back to prime because of you!
You're welcome 👍🏻
@@MrSubaru1387 Re watched this, do the camber bolts need to be torqued?
Yes, there is a torque spec for them.
Well made, no nonsense and really helpful. Going to attempt this soon on my Outback using your video as a reference. Thanks man, thumbs up.
Glad you found out helpful.
You make it look so easy.. what a fantastic job. Thanks for taking the time to record this!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Dude. You're a beautiful human being just saved me lost time and probably broken parts. I would buy you a beer if I could
+MrMateo911 glad to help. 👍
Wao! step by step of the entire thing. Just great and amazing content you have!!!
Best instructional video I've seen. Perfect.
wish i found this video when i was doing mine last week
Well I finally have to do my axle five months from when it first started clicking bad... I work and sleep in my car and I’m currently broken down next to a store. Gonna try to find an axle and do it myself tomorrow morning but I don’t have proper tools. Wish me luck
Gezz I thought I could just replace the joint. This is going take me all day lol
Thanks, would not have attempted without this video. You saved me big bucks...
Glad to be of help.
Thank you for posting a video that is easy to follow and straight to the point.
Glad that it was helpful to you.
Q: can the axle shaft at the hub be tapped out BEFORE the transmission end?? The video shows it being hammered before the roll pin is punched out.....mine's stuck so was wondering if it is not coming out because it is fixed because the other end is still connected to the transmission....
There is a small amount of play/give in the axle to allow you to at break it free inside the hub.
Thanks so much for this. Did the replacement on my '99 JDM Legacy GTB and it was exactly as described!
+Erik Larson you're welcome! That's awesome, glad I could help you. 👍 Oh man, how I wish we had the GTB in the states.
Dude this video is so good bro. not talking and the sound its very nice and relax good job and thanks!! 😎
+Manuel Fierro glad you enjoyed it 👍
Awesome video man, straight to the point and clear detail, thank you very much
Thanks for the step by step just changed mine. An the video was very helpful thank you.
Awesome dude, makes me want to give it a try on my own , very straightforward video 👍👍👍👍
Great video, I can tell you don't live in New england. this car would have had to a of rust and seized bolts every step of the way. Again thanks for the clear video you just got another subscriber.👍
Thank you for making this awesome video. It's about time to replace mine and this made it look easy. Great instructions.
+Nate A glad to help
I watch all your vids for my outback you rock
Im really digging that Snap On nut smacker you have!
Did you replace with a Subaru OEM axle assembly or aftermarket? What aftermarket brands do you recommend?
Very good thank u and no loud crappy youtube music
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Thank you for showing this.
Thanks for a straight forward, informative video. Perfect
+Jeremy Wilder glad to be of help.
Man you make taking that axle nut off look easy, been struggling for 30 minutes trying to get it off with break bar. Still can't get it off. Any tips?
good job. do not forget to torque strut bolts
Was going to subscribe but hell I already am.
very straight forward
So I'm having trouble with a local automotive shop that I clearly made a mistake by going to but one of my clients recommended it and her boyfriend works there. Well turns out my 15 year old daughter who only knows how to check the air in the tires and put gas in our cars and start them likely knows more about automotive repair or functions of parts than these people and this is more my shock at speaking with the general manager and his lack of knowledge more than anything. Unfortunately the guy who I trust with my car here in NC needs back surgery and his 22 year old son had recently been killed in a motorcycle accident so I didn't want to bother him. I knew that the one issue was my driver's side CV axle and I watched him replace my passenger side a year ago like it was nothing so I figured I'd be ok taking something so simple to this place. Also my ac blower motor and resistor had just been replaced by me and was blowing like a champ, ice cold air until I stopped and idled for a few minutes and that's a big issue because I transport clients dogs and it's hot here in Southeastern NC, well you know SC is the same way. Anyhow so I figured I'd ask them to check that and help me figure out what that would need. Also the boyfriend is the 65 year old little bi*ch boy that is basically a receptionist that schedules appointments and calls clients. He was also a client whose dog was routinely picked up by me and id think that AC issue would concern him as well. Well I clearly shouldn't assume these things. Initially he didn't relay to the mechanics to check the AC, I just happened to ask the mechanic when I had gone back up there and he was clueless and said he'd check it. Well the next day I called to pay for my car and I ask about the AC and he swore they added a bit of frion and it never blew warm air the whole time. I guess I'm special because it sure as fu*k continues this pattern daily. So I pick my car up and I keep thinking I'm hearing a noise but can't quite be sure until it got Louder over the next week coming from that same hub area on the driver's side. This shit show goes on to include lies and replacing the passenger side cv axle after not driving it to hear the noise and just assuming that it must be the issue. Well they had to give me that "damaged" axle back so I could return to the parts store because it had a lifetime warranty and had been replaced last year. Also I'm very aware of what a cv axle sounds like going bad so they are most definitely not thinking ahead while lying. I go to return that damaged allegedly visually, a torn boot, and thus the reason they assumed. So me and the commercial parts manager open it up and shockingly we apparently lack the xray vision required to see.any damage. And yet the noise remains. So.i go to my normal mechanic and ask him to listen as I drove away and he said it sounds like the axel isn't seated properly. Wellll after 2 weeks and 2 voice mails to the general manager because I'm very stressed about the possibility of this being the case and causing damage to my transmission, let alone the fact I paid for labor to replace a part that wasn't damaged and they lied to me about. Well I finally speak with this general manager who tells me that it wouldn't be drivable if it weren't seated correctly, which I believe to be BS. I believe it to be quite possible and potentially damage my transmission. Am I wrong? Since that discussion a week ago I've done extensive research and the reviews about this place are numerous stories just like my own. My client, who I was trying hard to tactfully deal with telling her everything, was not happy and when she asked him that evening what was going on with my car he accused her of lying lol. She promptly booted him out.
Wow - you did a fantastic job on this. Thanks so much.
You're welcome.
Great video. Thank you.
1) if I needed to replace lower ball joints while I was doing the axles, could I remove the ball joints instead of the camber bolts? 2) What is your opinion of rebuilding the axles opposed to buying reman./new?
3) What brand axles did you buy?
Thank you again!
+c10seth you're welcome. 1) probably need to remove both for the clearance. 2) I've never rebuilt, only replaced. 3) Used a Tough one from Advance Auto Parts.
1) 2) Copy that! 3) Thank you - The dealership charges north of $250 for a reman. axle. I'll check out a Tough One.
+c10seth I've had good luck with them. Installed them in several Subarus.
Awesome work, liked the camera job. Only thing, the axle pins are the hardest part in my opinion because the access is frustrating, wish that was also on camera too.
It's really not that hard with the correctly sized roll pin punch, as long as the vehicle isn't rusted. Thankfully I live in the south and rust isn't an issue. I apologize for not showing the process on video, but due to the limited area, angle, and size of the camera I was using it wasn't possible to video that part of the repair.
I loved the video. Proper techniques, easily understandable, and well documented. Thank you for this. I will use this in my DIY repair. Just as curiosity, were you using torque limiting socket for the lug nuts?
+MrSoulMonk Awesome, glad to help. No, I just snugged them down with the impact. Didn't use full power installing them so I could torque them properly with the torque wrench after.
I just pulled the knuckle off the lower ball joint and did it that way. No alignment necessary afterwards.
idk if you still make videos but a head gasket video would be awesome
I truly appreciate this video, thank you!
Glad to help.
Would this be the same on a 99 Legacy?
Brilliant video, nicely edited, annotated and highlights all of the steps clearly and simply, thanks for sharing.
If I don't have a a 'roll pin punch' what size is that punch?
Also, can this be feasible without removing the spindle bolts?
it’s that time on the 00 forester : ‘ )
so good thank you. perfect video
about to do my axle on my 1999 Subaru outback. I always do research before I start working , Just in case cuz you never know.
thank you.
Excellent video thanks
Hey, the forester 99 has the brake line inside a metal hole next to the strut. What I did to take it out was grinded out out on both the new ones and old ones and it worked so far. But it looks like you have to disconnect the brake line and I did that because I didnt know how to bleed brakes.
Yup. I notch those older struts that run brake lines through them as well. Not sure why they did that.
ok thanks I'll give that a try tomorrow. it's odd that there are 2 options of axke removal. thanks
Well, there's only suppose to be remove the roll pin and then the axle. Stubs are supposed to stay in the transmission. As a rule.
Great video as always, thanks! I am getting ready to do this on my son's 2003 L.L. Bean and was wondering if it needed a gasket / seal on the differential. I now my 2017 did when I changed the axle on it. Also, what part number is the axle spring / roll pin? Thank you!
Looks easy enough...Now what are the hitches? Getting the axle clear out of the hole in back of the hub has always been my challenge in other cars.
Great video. One suggestion would be to let folks know what size socket for axle nut . Is it 32mm ? And also the other nuts. Only because some people don't own full metric sets and will just purchase what's needed when they pick up axles at the parts store. Just a suggestion. Thanks!
Yes, 32mm axle nut.
That was a great video. I have a 92 Subaru legacy that needs either CV axle or wheel bearing. Any tips to figure out which I need to replace or both? Thanks for the info!
I drop the ball joint and replace those too since there so cheap and Ive never use a new roll pin tho lol 😁
would this be the same on a 2002 WRX?
it looks like the most difficult part is actually removing the old axle. is there a trick to this? or is it not as hard as it looks?
Thank you
I have an European 2007 Outback 3.0 5EAT and I wanted to change both front CV Axle. I bought aftermarket SKF VKJC 7515 which is the equivalent of my 28321AG022. The change was made in a subaru shop and they did not noticed anything. When I wanted to get my car I noticed that immediately after putting the car in drive, all the car started to shake a lot even if I was keeping my foot on the brake pedal... They were puzzled and said it might be from the transmission mount which might be the problem. They ordered that mount and I drove the car shaking for 3 weeks until the mount arrived. But before changing the mount, I asked to put back the old original axle. Surprise, surprise, mostly for them, no shaking any more... I measured the axle compressed and the SKF one was 5mm longer... This should be the problem? Are there other axle better than SKF (except original ones that are hard to find and very expensive)? What do you recommend?
You can remove those little center caps with 2 razor blades as "pry bars" haha that certain type of center cap is impossible to pry off with a little screw driver so I understand why u did that but try 2 razor blades! Love your vids man
Thanks for your help
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Great Videos! WRX - 2009 I've got a thumping sound when I make left u-turns. Replaced the front axles where it seemed like the noise was coming from. Replace rear differential fluid. Still have the noise, not as bad. Any thoughts/suggestions?
Great job.
Great job, perfect video. Thank you!
Thanks. Glad to help.
I have to do this on a 01 outback with a manual trans. I have a leaking output/cv axle oil seal. Is that seal replaceable without removing the differential bearing adjuster?
Thanks
Welcome!
Outstanding video thank you
No problem, glad to help.
i just watched your video, where can i find the drive shaft online. i have looked everywhere, all they got is aftermarket crap.
Watching this video after having this repair done after my CV axle fell out of the differential while at high speed on the highway, and after watching I'm exceptionally confused as to how that could have happened...
Could you please do a video with further information about the camber bolt position? Much appreciated.
Right on, great video.
Thank you. 👍🏻
What size socket did you use for chamber nut?
19mm
Great video
It looks like Subaru has discontinued production of the front axles, at least for my 02 year model, and the reman program also stopped a few yeara ago. I'm wondering if you MrSubaru prefer or recommend one of the aftermarket axle manufacturers? There's so much debate online and I'd like to hear your 2 cents. Thank you!
Hi MrSubaru1387, excellent video! I am going to replace the driver's side CV axle on my 2010 outback soon. 2 questions if you don't mind? 1. this OB has less than 74,000 miles - isn't that a bit early to fail? also, #2: is there any advantage/disadvantage to removing the lower control arm instead of the camber bolt? Thanks again for the excellent video!
Not really, I just replaced the driver's front CV axle on my 60k mile 2014 Outback due to a ruptured boot. The video will actually be up tomorrow afternoon. Idk. I've always gone by the factory service manual and removed the strut bolts. You're welcome. 👍🏻
It all depends on your location. If you live/ the vehicle has lived in a corrosion area you're going to have issues removing the ball joint and it's probably going to be easier to go the strut route.
Noticed that you did not replace the transmission oil seal while replacing the transaxle. I need to replace my right side shaft. The rubber boot has failed and it is leaking a lot of oil. Any ideas? Thanks for the excellent vid.
Excellent video as usual!
Your Torque settings don't match with what I have and frankly I'm a little confused what to go with.
For my Australian Suby Outback Limited 10/1998 (BH9 -EJ251) my Gregory's service & repair manual states Torque Settings for;
''Front driveaxle nut - Legacy and Outback - 2004 and earlier models.......159 Ft-lbs or 216 Nm.''
Conversely the Service manual from jdmfsm website of which I had to get the 2000 version to fit my vehicle states - Legacy/ Outback = 186 Nm.
The 2001 version states for 2.5L = 186Nm and for 3.0L = "216 Nm" - (same as stated in my Gregory's manual.)
So I guess we have from 137.2 Ft lbs (186 Nm) to 159 Ft lbs (216 Nm) for the Front Axle Nut.
I mean do Aussie vehicles require heavier gear and torque specs for suspension? The rear end has those Self Levelling rear shocks with the fat bottom end = ''P/N 20365AE020'' KYB both sides same. Do I trust my Gregory's manual? There are mistakes in there.
I'd go with the Subaru factory service manuals on Jdmfsm.info
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks man appreciate the input. Cheers!
Awesome upload