This may not be relevant but was there alot of tuning needing to be doen with the motor oriention, im buildinf a la trax rwd conversion amd im almost done just the final tuning seems to be kind of out of my skill set, ive already watched a bunch of your videos and can say its been a huge help watching the WL k989 videos keep up the awesome content 🤘🤘🤘
Hi beaver, I’ve been trying to setup my steering but can’t seem to get enough length.? The actual thread rod doesn’t seem long enough.... Do you have a trick how I can get steering straight? Thanks
I changed the servo to AFRC A11CLS. If you use the standard metal gear servo you can't put the servo horn in straight up, you'll need to put it in one step to the left, or to the right if you point the servo at yourself.
Thanks, I worked out if I adjusted the arms further it works perfect 👌🏻 thanks Also we’re do you get that retro skyline body shell, that looks good Thanks again for all your help 👍🏻
@@muaythai193 DriftArt 3S = MA Racing 1.5 > GLD. The top 2 are divided by the body I'd use. DA3S for 1/28 and MA for 1/24. Technically DA3S can do 1/24 too but it's the best narrow chassis short wheelbase so it can do pretty much anything.
@@BeaversHobby I’ll go with the DA3S now. I want to use the Hobbywing drift motor & esc combo with it, as well as a Futaba receiver, but I’m not sure about the servo and gyro. In 1/10 drifting I use the Reve D RSST servo and Futaba GYD450 with AVCS mode (love it). What is the best servo and gyro for mini drifting? And is there a gyro with AVCS too, like the GYD450 has?
@@muaythai193 AGF A11CLS servo or AFRC D2114TG-S will fit on most cars. DA3S and MA 1.5 alike. It also fits TG Racing, drift beast, etc. Basically anything that doesn't use the low-profile servo (AGF A06CLS) will be the A11CLS size. As for the gyro. GT55 V4 is great. AGF mini V3.5 or AFRC GYS-2 V4 are also good but you'll need the programming dongle to program the servo and increase damper because it might cause wheel shake. At least mine does. If you want the full AVC, big gyro like GYD450 also fits in the car if you manage the wiring well enough. The quality control on these cars are about the same. I still have to file a bit of carbon fibre plate on MA. Missing parts are few and far between, I rarely see it happen.
Yo sorry for the many questions but I saw you said prepare some m2 screws. I just received a brmx but I haven’t got any m2*8 double sided screws because it didn’t come with the build. Just wondering if this is normal ?
Which part of the assembly is this? I guess it's for the suspension arms. If all the arms can be assembled then it's OK. Maybe they changed the screw size. Otherwise if the car cannot be completed, you will have to contact the seller for missing part.
@@Stoney69999 Oh.. it is indeed the headless screw for the suspension arms. Still, this is a mistake from the manufacture so they should help you with it.
Motor & ESC: depends on how much you want to spend. For a start I recommend Surpass Rocket 5500KV + Atomic or GL brushless sensorless ESC. Or get the Furitek Momentum as it's the best sensorless ESC right now. If you want to go brushless take a look at PN Racing sensored combo. You should start at 5500KV for this car and more if the track is larger than 3x3m. Servo: AGF A11CLS, the only choice. Gyro: AGF GY04M V3 or AFRC GYS-2 V3, they are the same. Battery: if you use stock battery tray then you can only fit GL Racing 330mAh or Marka Racing 350mAh, If you get the hi-mount optional extra you can fit up to 450mAh. Try to keep it under 500mAh otherwise the weight will start to become a problem.
@@nattyanis6397 My pleasure. I think you can do a sensored setup within 450. Check www.kenonhobby.com/ if you are in the US and www.minizracing.it/minizshop/ for EU. I'm not sure if you can source A11CLS locally but I usually buy it from banggood, gyro as well. servo bit.ly/2keuZfT , gyro bit.ly/2XD0Xms You'll need to get the battery locally because they usually don't ship lipo overseas.
Great review as always. I haven't had the time to touch my kit for over a month due to work. Ill be back, but seeing its hard to even adjust gear mesh, i guess bmrx isn't for me after all. How do you like it compared to your gld?
Out of the box with stock setup BMR-X is easier to drive. GLD is equal to this in terms of driving after some upgrades and adjustment. In long run I can see GLD being better because of better parts quality, better parts support and better overall chassis designed. GLD is much easier to tune, change parts and adjust.
I'd say mostly there are groups of friends doing tandem drifting and not competition. If you want to compete it depends on where you are. South East Asia like Thailand and Indonesia got some micro drifting competitions from time to time. Japan and Korea, not really sure. Europe and America, none as far as I know.
Infinite option, I'd say. There are many manufactures like Tamiya, Aoshima, Fujimi, Revell, Italeri making vastly different cars from muscle cars in the '60 to JDM to Liberty Walk widebodied Lamborghini. A good option for BMR-X would be a front engine rear wheel drive car so the bonnet is a bit high to accomodate the front motor.
@@BeaversHobby hey beaver I’m having trouble finding a battery and receiver for this bmr-x the plug ins are to small for any battery or receiver any help ?
@@andyman8338 The receiver plug is JST-ZH 1.5mm so there are like 3 brands of radio that have micro receiver with that plug, Flysky Noble NB4, Futaba and Sanwa. Otherwise you'll have to convert the receiver yourself. Which radio do you use? As for the battery plug. It's JST-PH 2.0mm. You can do a conversion plug or replace the plug very easily.
Do you know what size the wheel nuts are? I bought a 4MM socket but it's too large... Not sure how to get the wheels off now (I bought the ARTR version).
There are 2 sizes for the wheel nuts. 4mm is for steel nuts and 4.5mm for plastic and aluminium nuts. If you have a cross wrench it should have both 4 and 4.5mm heads already.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you! I was getting confused because my 4mm cross wrench wasn't fitting in the wheel (too thick). I ended up grinding some of the wrench down to get it to fit in the wheel.
@@Raguvian My pleasure. There are small screwdriver kits for fixing phone with hex slots, check it out. I got one from my local computer store and it works really well with mini RC.
hey beavers, ive been into rc drifting lately but im so overwhelmed by the so many options available out there my budget is around 260$, and i've got my flysky gt3b and two 400mah lipo batteries that i took from my k989 so the transmitter/receiver/battery is off the table. and after doing some research i think that i've settled on either the drzv2 or bmr-x. one of the reasons being that they're both around 200$ with electronics. so the rest of the money goes for the body+motor so what do you think? are these good for absolute beginners to learn about rcing like me? or do u recommend getting something else? like the driftart for example or any other chassis? let me know and thanks you for all your support!
Yes, both are very good for beginner. DRZ V2 is a bit easier to build because the ball caps are less fragile. Basically DRZ V2 is mainly for 1/28 with Mini-Z body but it has a capability to adjust and upgrade to 1/24. BMR-X is stuck at 1/24 scale and intended to use with scale model for the body. So choose whichever scale suite you best.
sir, recently i bought a mini z awd ma020s chassis, and when every time i press the button on the transmitter (throttle+turn) it makes a noise, like a beep (high pitch) sound continously, and im not using a gyro, is that normal?
I’ve got a bit of a problem a tamiya motor I got goes faster one way then the other and I already had to swap motor wires because it went the wrong way but the thing is that I can’t turn it around it is the sinnohobby mini q 1 this rc drifter has a lot of power I see it reminded me I still wanted to fix this can I swap the magnets inside the can to make this work or is it something else I can do to make the motor get it’s full potential
Check the ESC direction, normally forward should be faster than reverse and you'll have the brake when you go from forward to reverse immediately. Once you get that working correctly, look at the motor direction next. Swap the motor wire if it runs backward. Some cheap ESC have a problem of reverse faster than forward and you can limit the reverse speed with EPA setting on your transmitter.
Oh man I was really wanting this, but after seeing this video it looks like a headache and I feel like the gld or xrx would be the way to go.... But I wanted the 1/24 scale just because it's super easy to find models and figurines in this scale so I could build a super awesome drift track. But idk if I wanna build a drift track that'll cost me 1000s$ for something that is so poorly built. Wish modeling in the 1/28 scale wasn't non existent
Well, it's not that bad if you have all the tools. Tuning the gearing is indeed difficult for this car. For 1/24 XRX is better. It's already wide. You can get the wheelbase adjustable chassis and it'll be very flexible with 1/24 bodies.
Hahaha I'm just be overly dramatic cause I really want the perfect 1/24 drift car. I haven't had any luck with smaller cars that don't have metal differentials and outdrives though so I might steer clear of this for now. The newer version of the BMR actually looks super clean and the pieces they swapped that from brass to aluminum and vice versa probably made a huge difference, but I might just end up getting a Chanrc or using an adjustable chassis for an XRX. Getting into these smaller scales I really came into it think they would have lower tolerances for error because they are so small but after watching countless videos I realize I was very mistaken it's more like building a model mech warrior from a kit 😁
I haven't done it nor have plan to do it. All my cars are different and I keep them for reference when anyone ask how to fix or troubleshoot or what parts are compatible. If I don't have them how can I know? Thank you for your understanding.
![[Review] MA Racing 1.5 1/24 RWD Drift Car](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/k8Fa_iaqOyk/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Review] MA Racing 1.5 1/24 RWD Drift Car](/img/tr.png)
"So don't lose hope and keep on drifting" -- nice! Thanks for another episode of micro rc drifting Beaver.
Your videos are great. We appreciate you experience and advice
This may not be relevant but was there alot of tuning needing to be doen with the motor oriention, im buildinf a la trax rwd conversion amd im almost done just the final tuning seems to be kind of out of my skill set, ive already watched a bunch of your videos and can say its been a huge help watching the WL k989 videos keep up the awesome content 🤘🤘🤘
Great video Beaver! THANK YOU MANOS!!!!!!!
CHOOOOOBY!!!!
Nice 👍 been waiting for this
Cool and great video. Thanks for sharing Sir Beaver.
tha Master at work. always a pleasure to watch 🙌👏👍
The body is fire bro 👍
So, what drift kit do you recommend as the best? I have experience building a lot of 1/10 scale but my son wants to try a mini.
BMR is the easiest to drive for a beginner.
Great man! Keep up the good work!
Hi beaver,
I’ve been trying to setup my steering but can’t seem to get enough length.?
The actual thread rod doesn’t seem long enough....
Do you have a trick how I can get steering straight?
Thanks
I changed the servo to AFRC A11CLS. If you use the standard metal gear servo you can't put the servo horn in straight up, you'll need to put it in one step to the left, or to the right if you point the servo at yourself.
Thanks, I worked out if I adjusted the arms further it works perfect 👌🏻 thanks
Also we’re do you get that retro skyline body shell, that looks good
Thanks again for all your help
👍🏻
@@benweddup552 The skyline is from my local shop. It's Fujimi 38582.
Beaver, what was your #1 pick?
GLD is my no.1
BMR-X #2
XRX DPA #3
Does the bmrx pro RWD 1/24 come with electronics and wheel and tires or no?
No, it doesn't.
nice wheel work
I just ordered the newest BMR-X EVO in full aluminium, what do you think about this chassis?
Did you try it yet?
I haven't got the EVO but from the looks if it, it's really good with better wheel compatibility than the standard version.
@@BeaversHobby I’m going back and forth still.
Maybe go for the DA3S instead?
Which one are your current top three?
@@muaythai193 DriftArt 3S = MA Racing 1.5 > GLD. The top 2 are divided by the body I'd use. DA3S for 1/28 and MA for 1/24. Technically DA3S can do 1/24 too but it's the best narrow chassis short wheelbase so it can do pretty much anything.
@@BeaversHobby I’ll go with the DA3S now.
I want to use the Hobbywing drift motor & esc combo with it, as well as a Futaba receiver, but I’m not sure about the servo and gyro.
In 1/10 drifting I use the Reve D RSST servo and Futaba GYD450 with AVCS mode (love it).
What is the best servo and gyro for mini drifting?
And is there a gyro with AVCS too, like the GYD450 has?
@@muaythai193 AGF A11CLS servo or AFRC D2114TG-S will fit on most cars. DA3S and MA 1.5 alike. It also fits TG Racing, drift beast, etc. Basically anything that doesn't use the low-profile servo (AGF A06CLS) will be the A11CLS size.
As for the gyro. GT55 V4 is great. AGF mini V3.5 or AFRC GYS-2 V4 are also good but you'll need the programming dongle to program the servo and increase damper because it might cause wheel shake. At least mine does.
If you want the full AVC, big gyro like GYD450 also fits in the car if you manage the wiring well enough.
The quality control on these cars are about the same. I still have to file a bit of carbon fibre plate on MA. Missing parts are few and far between, I rarely see it happen.
Yo sorry for the many questions but I saw you said prepare some m2 screws. I just received a brmx but I haven’t got any m2*8 double sided screws because it didn’t come with the build. Just wondering if this is normal ?
Which part of the assembly is this? I guess it's for the suspension arms.
If all the arms can be assembled then it's OK. Maybe they changed the screw size.
Otherwise if the car cannot be completed, you will have to contact the seller for missing part.
@@BeaversHobby yes it is for the suspension arms, I’m going to try out out replacement m2 screws thank you
@@Stoney69999 Oh.. it is indeed the headless screw for the suspension arms. Still, this is a mistake from the manufacture so they should help you with it.
@@BeaversHobby man I ordered it brand new of RC mart let’s hope they got my back 👍 appreciate the words of wisdom
What was the best you said?
XRX DPA was the best. Nowadays I recommend DriftArt 2.5 either standard edition or Summer.
@@BeaversHobby have you tried the belt drive bmrx
@@texasracingsindicate No, I haven't.
that is an awesome chassi
can you say me what motor esc , Battery ....
i will buy the chassi
actually i use MST RMX RWD 1:10 scale chassi
Motor & ESC: depends on how much you want to spend. For a start I recommend Surpass Rocket 5500KV + Atomic or GL brushless sensorless ESC. Or get the Furitek Momentum as it's the best sensorless ESC right now. If you want to go brushless take a look at PN Racing sensored combo. You should start at 5500KV for this car and more if the track is larger than 3x3m.
Servo: AGF A11CLS, the only choice.
Gyro: AGF GY04M V3 or AFRC GYS-2 V3, they are the same.
Battery: if you use stock battery tray then you can only fit GL Racing 330mAh or Marka Racing 350mAh, If you get the hi-mount optional extra you can fit up to 450mAh. Try to keep it under 500mAh otherwise the weight will start to become a problem.
@@BeaversHobby thanks i will Maximum 450dollar
@@nattyanis6397 My pleasure. I think you can do a sensored setup within 450. Check www.kenonhobby.com/ if you are in the US and www.minizracing.it/minizshop/ for EU.
I'm not sure if you can source A11CLS locally but I usually buy it from banggood, gyro as well. servo bit.ly/2keuZfT , gyro bit.ly/2XD0Xms
You'll need to get the battery locally because they usually don't ship lipo overseas.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks dude im from Germany 😅
@@nattyanis6397 Oh, in that case SRCC should have a lot of things too. www.srcc-devils.de/ I personally haven't bought from them though.
Great review as always. I haven't had the time to touch my kit for over a month due to work. Ill be back, but seeing its hard to even adjust gear mesh, i guess bmrx isn't for me after all.
How do you like it compared to your gld?
Out of the box with stock setup BMR-X is easier to drive. GLD is equal to this in terms of driving after some upgrades and adjustment. In long run I can see GLD being better because of better parts quality, better parts support and better overall chassis designed. GLD is much easier to tune, change parts and adjust.
are there competitions with these cars...or is it just for fun? thanks
I'd say mostly there are groups of friends doing tandem drifting and not competition.
If you want to compete it depends on where you are. South East Asia like Thailand and Indonesia got some micro drifting competitions from time to time. Japan and Korea, not really sure. Europe and America, none as far as I know.
Hi what remote and reciever u have in the car?
Currently on this car I use the Radiomaster MT12. ua-cam.com/video/ZoMTnpdOhSI/v-deo.html
It was Flysky Noble NB4 with FGR4S receiver before.
Very good 👍🔔
What body options are there for 1/24?
Infinite option, I'd say.
There are many manufactures like Tamiya, Aoshima, Fujimi, Revell, Italeri making vastly different cars from muscle cars in the '60 to JDM to Liberty Walk widebodied Lamborghini.
A good option for BMR-X would be a front engine rear wheel drive car so the bonnet is a bit high to accomodate the front motor.
Cool
What bodies do u recommend I bought a 1/24 Silvia body and it didn’t fit it was a tad small
It's quite wide so anything that has wide body kit like Liberty Walk or Rocket Bunny will fit nicely.
@@BeaversHobby hey beaver I’m having trouble finding a battery and receiver for this bmr-x the plug ins are to small for any battery or receiver any help ?
@@andyman8338 The receiver plug is JST-ZH 1.5mm so there are like 3 brands of radio that have micro receiver with that plug, Flysky Noble NB4, Futaba and Sanwa. Otherwise you'll have to convert the receiver yourself. Which radio do you use?
As for the battery plug. It's JST-PH 2.0mm. You can do a conversion plug or replace the plug very easily.
Do you know what size the wheel nuts are? I bought a 4MM socket but it's too large... Not sure how to get the wheels off now (I bought the ARTR version).
There are 2 sizes for the wheel nuts. 4mm is for steel nuts and 4.5mm for plastic and aluminium nuts. If you have a cross wrench it should have both 4 and 4.5mm heads already.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you! I was getting confused because my 4mm cross wrench wasn't fitting in the wheel (too thick). I ended up grinding some of the wrench down to get it to fit in the wheel.
@@Raguvian My pleasure. There are small screwdriver kits for fixing phone with hex slots, check it out. I got one from my local computer store and it works really well with mini RC.
Too bad that we can not have the subtitle in French, thank you for your test.
hey beavers, ive been into rc drifting lately but im so overwhelmed by the so many options available out there
my budget is around 260$, and i've got my flysky gt3b and two 400mah lipo batteries that i took from my k989 so the transmitter/receiver/battery is off the table.
and after doing some research i think that i've settled on either the drzv2 or bmr-x. one of the reasons being that they're both around 200$ with electronics. so the rest of the money goes for the body+motor
so what do you think? are these good for absolute beginners to learn about rcing like me?
or do u recommend getting something else? like the driftart for example or any other chassis? let me know
and thanks you for all your support!
Yes, both are very good for beginner. DRZ V2 is a bit easier to build because the ball caps are less fragile. Basically DRZ V2 is mainly for 1/28 with Mini-Z body but it has a capability to adjust and upgrade to 1/24. BMR-X is stuck at 1/24 scale and intended to use with scale model for the body. So choose whichever scale suite you best.
@@BeaversHobby alright cool thanks!
sir, recently i bought a mini z awd ma020s chassis, and when every time i press the button on the transmitter (throttle+turn) it makes a noise, like a beep (high pitch) sound continously, and im not using a gyro, is that normal?
ESC does make a bit of sound so I think it's normal.
@@BeaversHobby i thought it broken or had an issue, thank you for answering my question
I’ve got a bit of a problem a tamiya motor I got goes faster one way then the other and I already had to swap motor wires because it went the wrong way but the thing is that I can’t turn it around it is the sinnohobby mini q 1 this rc drifter has a lot of power I see it reminded me I still wanted to fix this can I swap the magnets inside the can to make this work or is it something else I can do to make the motor get it’s full potential
Check the ESC direction, normally forward should be faster than reverse and you'll have the brake when you go from forward to reverse immediately. Once you get that working correctly, look at the motor direction next. Swap the motor wire if it runs backward.
Some cheap ESC have a problem of reverse faster than forward and you can limit the reverse speed with EPA setting on your transmitter.
Oh man I was really wanting this, but after seeing this video it looks like a headache and I feel like the gld or xrx would be the way to go.... But I wanted the 1/24 scale just because it's super easy to find models and figurines in this scale so I could build a super awesome drift track. But idk if I wanna build a drift track that'll cost me 1000s$ for something that is so poorly built. Wish modeling in the 1/28 scale wasn't non existent
Well, it's not that bad if you have all the tools. Tuning the gearing is indeed difficult for this car.
For 1/24 XRX is better. It's already wide. You can get the wheelbase adjustable chassis and it'll be very flexible with 1/24 bodies.
Hahaha I'm just be overly dramatic cause I really want the perfect 1/24 drift car. I haven't had any luck with smaller cars that don't have metal differentials and outdrives though so I might steer clear of this for now. The newer version of the BMR actually looks super clean and the pieces they swapped that from brass to aluminum and vice versa probably made a huge difference, but I might just end up getting a Chanrc or using an adjustable chassis for an XRX. Getting into these smaller scales I really came into it think they would have lower tolerances for error because they are so small but after watching countless videos I realize I was very mistaken it's more like building a model mech warrior from a kit 😁
Definitely subscribed love your stuff
Where can I get that m2 screw set?
I got mine from banggood. Button head is the most used. bit.ly/2NXG3tY
Holy shit, Polish glue tube, where did you get that from? :)
The tube is just as standard shrink tube with 6mm diameter before it shrinks. Glue is just UHU glue you can find in a supermarket.
@@BeaversHobby I see the glue has Polish branding on the tube so that seemed pretty unusual :)
@@0YouCanCallMeAl0 Probably because of localization.
Can KT-531P Transmitter from Kyosho control my rc4gs receiver? It is important because I build the budget tamiya 1/14 that what I say.
No, it can't. You'll need to get a full set of RC4GS first then get additional receivers later if you have more cars.
@@BeaversHobby How about the video test about that?I mean you can do the video test about that if you can
I had full of set of that.But I will build the next one
I have buy the rc4gs receiver
@@duydangnguyen7473 Yes, just need one extra receiver for one new car.
Here's my RC4GS video. ua-cam.com/video/VfcWCJisCzY/v-deo.html
But I need a cheap transmitter you control the car to race with my brother. So I find that the kt 531P work on FHSS
BMR-X pro pls
I'll try to save up for one but my priority is 1/28 so it will be DRZ V3 before that, if it ever happens.
👍👌
👍🏻😊👍🏻
Hello sir you are making giveaways cars or something I don’t know 🤷🏽♂️😅 because how I seen your videos you have a lot of of Cars 🚘
I haven't done it nor have plan to do it. All my cars are different and I keep them for reference when anyone ask how to fix or troubleshoot or what parts are compatible. If I don't have them how can I know? Thank you for your understanding.
First!
Lol i beat you by 2mins 🤣