Only video worth watching when you want to set up you Starguider Pro for the first time and how mount your different lenses and the only video explaining step by step and clearly. Great job 👍🏻
At about 18:30 you recommend mounting the camera to the short end of the declination bracket and the counterweight rod and counterweights to the long end to gain more counterweight leverage. However, the polar scope illuminator only turns on when the declination bracket is oriented long end up. I tried your scheme and discovered I would have to perform polar alignment with the camera down and counterweights up. I went back to iOptron’s intended configuration and added an extra counterweight. I own iOptron’s original Sky Guider, so I already have two extra counterweights. I might not need a counterweight bar extension. I can now perform final polar alignment with the payload configuration exactly as it will be when shooting. BTW shining a laser through the polar scope for rough alignment is a big help.
I just received my SkyGuider pro yesterday and noticed the same thing, there is only one way the polar scope is lit and that makes the camera on the bottom. I was wondering if there was a way to reorientate the center piece the dec bracket mounts to but that piece seems to be press fit on the shaft. I dont want to try and pry it off unless I know it can be done...
I discovered this recently myself and went back to the original intended configuration. Frankly I'm surprised he never mentioned this or replied. This is a big oversight on his part as many don't want to unexpectedly discover why polar alignment just got harder due to the absence of an illuminated reticle. Also, you have to wonder did he USE this product? He would of known from the get go something was amiss. Clearly he no longer follows up. How unfortunate.
You setup the mount/Skyguider for alignment with the north star, before attaching the bracking/camera/counterweights. Once that's done, you won't need to align the head anymore since the mount will be "zero'd" as needed. That's how he can rotating things, since you won't need to do the original alignments (which DO require the mount to be oriented for the reticle to illuminate. Hope this helps.
@@trackedmiatas3509 People purchase it for its mobility. Every time it's moved, polar alignment is necessary, or did you not notice he does presentations with this mount in various locations lol
Hey Peter, wonderful video-- I learned so much! One thing I found helpful with the polar alignment was bringing a green laser with me out in the field. My friend Bill actually showed me this method. We would place the green laser up against the polar scope, and from there you can compare the beam of the green laser that is shining through the scope out to the sky, with where the north star is, and roughy adjust the tracker from there so you can get the north star in the scope. You know you have it when the beam finally points at the north star through the scope. This tends to eliminate a lot of struggle and frustration out of the way before you get a precise alignment by looking through the scope with your eye once you have the north star locked in. This worked well with our SkyTracker Pro's and will look forward to using the same method on the SkyGuiderPro. Hope this helps!
Yeah, a laser pointer really helps to speed things up! You can easily slot that into the SkyTracker Pro polar scope hole too. Just be sure to watch out for any planes!
I am just starting to take interest in any type of astrophotography. It just so happens that we are taking a driving vacation to Albuquerque coincident with the 2023 annular eclipse. I have found Peter's videos on the Ioptron SkyGuider extremely helpful in taking my first step in tracking the eclipse. I have been practicing and it has been very necessary to get a feel for the set up and settings. One thing I did try on my own was to use a geared head beneath the camera instead of a ballhead. The geared head allows me to make very small movements when trying to align my target, especially with the camera being higher and creating leverage which made the ballhead difficult to control. I used the Sunwayfoto GH-PROii. I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks Peter for a great set of videos, I will be using many more in the near future.
I'm a real beginner at this and decided to first try my Nikon D5500 and lens with a standard tripod first while I learn about the Sky Guider Pro and Sky-Watcher Adventurer and ultimately decide which one to buy. This was a great intro to the Sky Guider! Thanks!
Very, very helpful and informative video. I just got a SkyGuider Pro and I watched this whole video once while waiting for it to arrive, then a second time after trying it out for the first time (somewhat incorrectly, I'm now seeing). The reconfiguring of the declination bracket is not at all obvious. Thank you for explaining everything so clearly!
For ballhead installation, I suspect one can omit the grooved ring adapter altogether. There is a spare 3/8-24 chrome thumbscrew in the kit like the one for attaching the counterweight shaft. Using the supplied Allen wrench remove the 4 screws attaching the grooved ring. then use the thumbscrew to directly mount your ball head.
I was looking for a walk-through on how these things work because I’m thinking about buying one and this video did exactly that. Awesome tutorial, thank you!
Hi Peter, I thought about the issue with the screw on the D bracket interfering with the mount that rotates screws. My solution was to replace the D bracket screw with a 6mm x 10mm hex set screw. Since we only need to touch when we setup or tear down a 3mm hex screw driver to tighten and loosen the set screw. Now the camer/lens/telecope can freely rotate without obstruction.
Thanks for this tutorial. I've struggled with the SkyGuider Pro, and finally got it to work correctly tonight. Just so others know, the higher the megapixel count on your camera, the more precise your alignment needs to be for the stars to stay sharp.
Hi Peter Great video. Perfectly clear instructions. May I suggest as I have just found out, frustratingly, novices like me using the equipment for the first time you should get use to the set up in daylight before trying for the first time. I tried it last night for the first time and by the time I had shuffled between your video and the actual equipment the clouds came over. Hay ho at least I now know how to set up and align everything. Got as far as alighing the poling star and made the mistake of then going to attach the camera at which point the clouds covered everything. Other frustration is that the bag that the tracker comes in only fits back in if you move it back to zero which means if you are always working from the same location you have to re-alight every time if you know what I mean. I have moved to a bigger bespoke bag to save that happening. Hope you don't mind the comments, just views from a new novice. Appreciate all the courses you provide. Nikon P900
Good video. Just an observation, with regard to your declamation bracket modification. When modified and attached to the sky guider pro, the resulting orientation of the radical on the polar scope will be 180° off. 12 o'clock will be down, 6 o'clock will be up, and all of the indicators on the reticle will be upside down.
Nice concise video...Am I missing where you explain that the polar scope dial is inverted when you flip the short and long ends of the reticle? Seems like it shouldnt be an issue but it might be good if people knew that would be the case...thanks!
Frankly, every polar scope alignment is different. Mine only lights up at a weird angle. Some people are lucky enough to have their polar scopes aligned correctly straight from the factory. Therefore, if they flip the Dec bracket around, the polar scope reticle will be upside down when everything is attached.
Thanks so much for this video! The directions and video that came with my SkyGuider Pro were very confusing. You really helped clarify the setup process. Looking forward to trying mine out!
Hi Peter, great video, but, I kind of got confused, since I am struggling with this issue now. On 2:27 you said the red light should turn on with 12 at the bottom and 6 at the top and then on 4:47 you said, the red light appears only with 12 at the top and 6 at the bottom, so, which one is it? Did I misunderstood something?
@@al284028 They'll most likely send you a PDF with instructions on how to re-align your polar scope. They may also give you the option to send it in and have them fix it. If I'm not mistaken, it should still function the same. In other words, regardless of where the numbers are at, you'll still want to position Polaris in the same spot on the reticule. For example, if the app tells you to put it to 3 o'clock, you'd put Polaris at that spot, even if the numbers don't match. I'd still reach out to them though and see what they say
Very helpful video- thanks for sharing your experiences and wisdom. I'll be referring to this video often as I become more familiar with the gear. One initial step that seems to have been skipped is attachment to a tripod. Many of us come to astrophotography from earth based photography : ) with a very expensive camera/ video tripod. Are these tripods equally appropriate and adaptable to the Skyguider? Do they require an additional mounting adapter (vs the typical plate)?
I know I am late to the party but, I just purchased a RedCat 51 and it fits nicely on the SkyGuider. However I am not sure if I can also use ball head with declination bracket with the Redcat. I see with the wide angle lens and DSLR it works nicely to make it easier to move camera. Didn't see that mentioned or discussed using RedCat. Without a ball mount with the RedCat on the declination mount pretty hard to move camera around without messing with polar alignment.
Extremely helpful for this newbie, thanks! It's a pity that iOptron doesn't provide useful tutorials, or even link to third-party videos such as yours for new users.
I think we were the only ones not invited to the Sony soccer game party. White lenses jabbing out everywhere. Enjoying your videos still. Will look forward for more.
Great tutorial , Peter. Really like the way you calmly explain every detail . I'm just starting out in this fascinating hobby . i am really confused about dark , bias , and flat frames so i'm concentrating on just taking long single shots at present . i am torn between the Skyguider Pro which looks a really solid piece of kit and the skywatcher star adventurer and additional wedge . i have a small refractor (WO ZS61) which i intend to use more than a traditional Camera / lens setup . I was leaning towards the skywatcher but now i find myself looking at the iOptron.
They both work well, and they both have some annoyances. For me, I think the SkyGuider Pro is less annoying to use than the Star Adventurer, but others would argue the opposite. I've got a full article here which might help you decide: www.peterzelinka.com/blog/2018/8/which-star-tracker-should-i-get
HI Peter. I am correct in thinking I do not need a ball head attached if using a long lens or a wide lens? By the way, this is a great video and you are explaining things very well. Thank you.
Hi @peter. I got the ioptron skyguider pro just last october this year and I was watching your tutorial. But i was confused already because ioptron has already changed the orientation of the the declination bracket. The shorter end should be at the bottom. Because the polar scope doesn't light ON when it's the other way around as you mentioned in your video. Perhaps they have changed it already. Also they have removed the numbers(1-12) already. Your tutorial is really informative. Thank you. #clearskies
Great video Peter! My husband got me one of these for Christmas, I had no idea what it was or what to do with it. This video cleared everything up for me in a clear, concise and easily understandable manner. Thanks so much!! I truly appreciate your instruction!! 🙂
Nicely done Peter, thanks. I was puzzled, why use the rotating collar on the declination bracket if you are going to mount a ball-head on top? The ball-head pans just like the rotating collar allows for. I just used the big screw through the declination bracket and mount the ball- head directly to it. The only reason I could see is that it may make it easier in the field at night to switch to the long lens mounted to the declination bracket. I haven't got comfortable enough with mine yet to try any long lens. :)
Exactly! I guess I forgot to mention that in the second take I recorded. I used to do it that way too, but I started shooting more and more telephoto stuff, and it became a pain to constantly reattach/remove the circular adapter piece.
Hello Peter. I'm just soaking up your knowledge like a sponge and I know it will make a huge difference when I get my SkyGuider Pro in February for my birthday. I have my eye on the William's Latitude Vixen mount but at 33 degrees North, Arizona is, I guess, considered "Middle Latitude" so would a Low or High work best? Thanks for all the great content!
It occurs to me, all the times you say, 'that's probably close enough' could be why you get so much better results from guiding than just polar alignment. Just a thought.
Hi Peter, Wonderful video on the SkyGuider Pro, your video is the reason I bought one. This may be a dumb question but when I put he bracket on the head and line up the notches on the red piece, I have rotated the viewfinder piece 180 from where it started. Does that matter as long as I have the north star centered?
Thanks for the introduction tutorial. Mine just showed up yesterday and am looking forward to using it. One question I had was what happens if you over charged the mount? Does it still work? Does it need to be left on for a while before you use it? I would love to hear about your experience.
You say having the camera on the longest part of the dec bar causes balancing issues, can you go into this more? I've had to swap mine over. It would seem they've changed how the bracket is constructed as mine was on the lower end if that makes sense? You talk about it at 17:50. My camera and lens believe it or not came out at 1025g and the counterweight is 1350g so I was having balancing issues. The weight was too heavy and meants I wouldn't be able to take milky way. Having swapped it around I can now actually balance it. Do you know if this causes tracking problems? I don't really want to be throwing away exposures I could've kept by just buying the 1KG weight. Cheers.
Hello there! Thank you for your tutorial. My question is after I do a polar alignment and I am ready to go do I have to loosen the clutch during tracking or keep it tightened if I am only using a ball head? The reason why I am asking this is that when I am mounting my camera system and loosening the clutch, the camera system falls to the other side which means that the motor does not have the power to hold the system. Thank you!
I am missing the point of the ball mount. Why not mount the camera right on the declination bracket? On the long end of the bracket if balance is an issue?
Hello Peter am thankful for this detailed and informative video on how to setup my equipment. I have a concern however. When I aligned the scope to 36/44 (previously 12/6) and locked it, my alignment screw for the bracket plate would turn downwards and not up. With all this balancing by the weight and opening the gear doesn’t this affect the scope alignment or it doesn’t matter anymore?
Polar finder was broken on my S8 (no menu button - and reading the reviews, it's not just that phone). So tried a free app called Polar Clock. Sufficiently similar reticle, no adds, free and has an accessible menu. It's nice when things work.
Thanks so much! One question though: I flipped the bracket as you showed and I'm 60 degrees up in Northern Hemisphere, which is pretty much the limit for the standard wedge (I can't go any further, or can I?). Anyway, the question is that how to go about having my camera upside down now? Because I can't attach the bracket with the CW and the camera to the mount in such a way that the camera is on top. Now the only option is to have the camera at the bottom, the CW is on top and the mount rotates in the wrong direction (clockwise). I'm confused :(
Can't thank you enough for this video! Even as a pro photographer this thing just seemed daunting - but your well thought-out, detailed tutorial makes me feel really confident to be going on my first shoot tomorrow. Thank you thank you thank you!
Hello Peter, Happy new year. Would it be too much for a favor is i ask you to review the skywatcher az gti wifi goto tracker? First came out in 2017 but i never really saw any good and honest reviews here in youtube. I want to really know how long and accurately i can long-exposed a photo with at least 300mm focal length and with no star trails. You and Trevor Jones are the only two that i trust with honest reviews. Saw both of your websites and your reviews with trackers but i find it surprising that the two of you never really reviewed it.
I've used it once, but not enough to give any real insight. A few of my students have it, and they seem to really like it! It's basically a heavy duty Star Adventurer that has Go-To functionality, as I understand it. I think you'd be able to get at least 3 minute exposures at 300mm. You could probably even push it to 5 minutes. I can't say for sure though. Due to a lack of space in my car (I've already got too much gear and not enough room) I don't currently have any plans to review it. However, if a retailer were to send me a temporary demo unit, I'd gladly review it and make some tutorials.
Great video. Is it possible to have the iPolar electronic polar scope installed in the existing SkyGuider mount and have a second optical polar scope mounted elsewhere on the SkyGuider Pro so you have the option for aligning either electronically or optically depending on you conditions?
Thanks for the video, but this configuration may not apply in all instances. I went through the process of reversing the bracket as shown in the video. This didn't work for me as I didn't have enough clearance between my camera with the telephoto lens attached. The reason is because I have an extended grip on my camera so that I can have two batteries powering the camera. Now I just need to start over and switch the bracket back around as it came. . I just wanted to point out this issue to those using extended grips. Thanks for all of the great info, this was very well illustrated.
I correct myself....I had a DOH moment. I reconfigured and mounted the camera and telephoto lens to the iOptron directly to the grip and not the lens. This worked just fine and even provides enough clearance all the way around.
If you mounted the circular piece to your camera body (battery grip) that may cause you some balancing problems, especially with a big telephoto lens. In your case, since you have the battery grip, you may want to revert everything to the initial configuration.
@@PeterZelinka Yes, I tried the configuration that you showed but after manipulating the camera in various positions I noticed that the corner of the camera grip and the Skyguider would barely touch. I reverted back to the original position but with a 100-400mm telephoto lens, I had to order another counterweight to balance the camera. Thanks! Richard
Battery grips will only add weight and more strain to the gears of the tracker.. My D750 with one full charged EN-EL15 battery lasted all night when one time i tried to take timelapse on the milkyway until sunrise. You dont need that much juice when using a mid-range to pro level dslr. However, using a mirrorless camera is a different story.
I am a total newbie at this just got the tracker set it all up by the video. I have one question because in all the videos I see nothing about how to start tracking. When everything is ready how do you start the tracking is there a button you have to press when you press the shutter on the camera? I'm 66 and just starting in this because I love the night sky but need a little more instruction.
PSA, Williams optics sells a counterweight extension bar which is cheap, ships internationally really quick and gave me enough extra leverage to use one weight with my a7iii + 100-400 + 1.4 teleconverter. Always nice to carry less weight and have a single setup that's more versatile without having to swap weights on and off.
Awesome tutorial. You mention about getting the ZWO ASI120MM-S instead of the ASI120MM. Looking at prices right now, and the ASI120MC-S is cheaper by ~$30, any downside on using that camera as autoguider? Both are 1.2Meg cameras and USB3. Basically I'm replicating your setup to work with my Pentax camera, and Mac OS X based.
I believe that MC-S is color, I may be wrong though. There's nothing wrong with having a color camera for guiding, but a monochrome camera will be more sensitive to light, and might be less grainy.
@@PeterZelinka Thanks for the reply, yes, it's color. I'll let you know how well it does. I should be getting first light in about 5-10 days. Hopefully I won't bang my head over trying to save $30.
What about the Equatorial base for this? Would it replace the base you show here and is that more advantageous? Of course, my main use of this is astrophotography and I do consider that important secret factor, Guidoscope.
This was exactly what I was thinking of asking. I just received the SkyGuider Pro, and there is indeed no red light visible when doing it this way. That could do with some clarification. Excellent video btw.
I'm half guessing since I don't have it, but it looks like that bracket can be aligned independedly from the polar scope alignment? Also, the bracket is not aligned most of the time anyway, so having it the stock way around wouln't have the polar scope aligned (even if the bracket can't be aligned separately from the part that is holding it). Lastly, itlooks like the polar alignment is done first i.e. you can do before even mounting the camera or the bracket, so shouldln't matter if you can't after maybe.
Good, you mentioned the balance issue using a ball head. It’s a convenience/inconvenience trade off. Is it easier in the end to stick with RA/DEC movements regardless of focal length? The answer probably depends on how comfortable you are pointing by RA and DEC.
Where are you hearing that you can over charge it? I'm pretty sure most chargers nowadays have an auto-cutoff circuit when charged? Not sure they would not have one in this device.
Thanks so much!! This was EXACTLY what I was looking for. I’m on to your full course Question: are you planning any updates of this video with the iPolar? My StarTracker came with the iPolar. Thanks again!
The base it comes with has worked for me but the William Optics base was so cheap and it looked nicely machines. I wasn’t disappointed, very nicely made!
Hey Peter ! Thx for this great introduction into the Skyguider. Just one hint or question: to solve the issue with the "long" screw at the declenation bracket which interfeares with the camera mounting; can I just shorten the screw?
You could, you can also buy a shorter screw for less than a dollar at most hardware stores. I've just gotten used to dealing with the problem though, I'd rather not mess up the original screw.
Hi peter, amazing video. I have been a user of thr HEQ5-PRO for 9 years, but just got myself a new (black) sky-guider pro delivered today. Please let me know how many hours will I have to charge it the 1st time around? Until the bulb blinks or longer? TIA.
Peter, how about doing a class for the Sky Guide or pro? I would be happy to sign up for it. It would have to probably be a few days but I am sure you could get five or 10 people to sign up. I am referring to a face to face, out in the field class.
I have noticed on my skyguider pro to have the mount 12 at the top and 6 at the bottom, the mount for 12 is the male side of mount while the 6 is female side. When u put on the DEC bracket I assume it doesnt matter you have to turn the mount again to have the camera side on the bracket on the top side? I have seen some vides where this is the opposite. Thanks
The way you mount the camera on ball-head around the 15:00 minute mark doesn’t work for pointing your camera in just any direction. With an RA tracker, declination needs to rotate on a plane that is perpendicular to RA, otherwise the rotation point is no longer the NCP. TL;DR version, if you mount your camera like that, the tracker will not follow the movement of the sky.
Wouldn't it be useful to dial in one's latitude (over a leveled base, of course) prior to hunting for Polaris through the alignment scope? That leaves one to only rotate the azimuth until Polaris shows up pretty much in the middle. It takes away half of the 'error' from an initial positioning to find it. (I ordered the SkyGuider Pro yesterday, July 25, 2020.)
Planning to use the guider to help with the eclipse coming up (April 2024). Since it's a short event, will just pointing it due North be close enough? Thx
That was a good introduction to the SkyGuider, I like your style. I have just two remarks: When using a ball head with a rotating base you can lose the mounting base, it then just adds unnecessary height and weight. I have a low height ball head permanently attached to the bracket. And if you don't use a heavy DSLR and lens, mounting the camera without a ball head on the short side of the bracket won't get balanced.
Hey Peter, if you turn the big black peace around and mount it the opposite way, that the polar scope inside has to be turned too. So it’s not lighten anymore. How do you handle that?
great video; great explanations, but a question. why not use the "telephoto lens" setup for wide angle as well? what useful purpose does the ball head provide?
I have the same question. I'm thinking it's just for convenience of being able to position the camera in more ways. The only reason you wouldn't use the ball head setup with a telephoto is because of the extra weight sticking out a lot further and making it harder to balance.
Hi Peter, this may be a completely pointless question, but I like to know why I'm doing something rather than it just being because I'm told to. You mention turning the red piece on the front to align the reticle and make sure it lights up red, but then later when aligning your camera, you turn the declination bracket, which in turn would turn the reticle, so my question is, why do we need to align the reticle? Is it just for performing the polar alignment? But one would assume that if we are rotating around the pole, it shouldn't matter if the reticle is aligned with 12 at the top.
If you are doing a precise polar alignment, the polar scope should be rotated around to the correct orientation. Then you can use the app to help position Polaris in the correct spot on the reticle. Once you've completed the polar alignment, you can rotate everything back to the normal position. However, if you get your polar alignment set, and then add the declination bracket and camera, it will likely throw off the alignment a bit. Therefore, you'd have to do another polar alignment check after everything has been attached. This can be very scary to do though. To get that reticle lined up properly, your camera may have to be upside down. This is another reason I recommend getting an auto-guider and using SharpCap for a polar alignment. It will make this whole process much simpler and straightforward, and you don't need to bother looking through the polar scope anymore.
This video is do helpful thank you! I had zero issues setting up and only had to exchange the screws (smaller mm for the bigger mm) for the ballhead mount! 👍
Thanks for the vid! One thing I noticed is if I mount my camera on the short end of the bracket like you suggested, I can't do a polar alignment with the camera attached because the red light doesn't shine into the scope. I have to rotate the bracket so the counterweight is at the top (12 o clock position) in order for the polar reticle to light up. I guess there isn't a way around this?
this is a really good video for managing the skyguider pro. Just two questions: How you can make the polar alignment during the day (for taking solar pictures for example) and how you can attached a telescope to the whole setup. Thanks in advanced
If you need to do a polar alignment during the day, simply point the star tracker North. Also, dial your latitude into the base. That's about as good as you can get, without having any stars. The telescope will be mounted on the included dovetail plate. It's a square piece with 4 holes in it. You'll use the loose screws that came in the bag to attach the dovetail plate to the circular camera mount (the one we screw into the bottom of a telephoto lens or the ballhead). Hopefully that makes sense
Peter, thanks for this informative video. Are there other reasons to use the ballhead with a wide angle lens, or is it just ease-of-use with rotating the camera around? Just wondering cause if in the field, at night, shooting with a long-lens, if I want to then shoot wide angle, do I really need to mess with putting the ballhead on?
I noticed when you turned the polar scope... the reticle seemed to be a bit off center when spinning. Is that intentional or just due to the Chinese manufacturing?
According to my research, it's supposed to "wobble" slightly. However, if you center something (top of a flag pole) in the polar scope and rotate it, the object should stay centered. If the object drifts out of the center of the crosshair while rotating, that indicates a problem.
Peter Zelinka So it looked like your reticle was not centered, indicating a problem. The solution is ...? If the reticle isn’t centered you’ll never achieve accurate polar alignment and the field will drift in declination, or if you are autoguiding the field will rotate around the guidestar. So you’ll still get trailing. Does the polar scope have tiny adjustment screws to move the reticle around in the field? It should not rotate as you turn the polar axis. I’m testing the Fornax Lightrack and getting accurate polar alignment is proving to be tough with it, so its accurate tracking is for nought.
Let us say I get the perfect sky shot I wanted in a nightscape scenario with a long exposure of the night sky but the foreground is blurred. Would I just turn off the tracker and take a regular exposure of the foreground? This is what I'm most confused about, lmao. Because I do most of my nightscape with two shots where I blend the foreground and sky together.
How important is to have the latitude/Alt-AZ base on the field? I only plan to shoot wide-angle for now, so I don't believe I'll need the base, declination bracket, or the CW kit. That way, I'll just get the mount with polar scope installed, and purchase the rest later if necessary. The bracket and CW kit - I am sure I won't need right now because my setup isn't all that heavy, but not sure about the base. In the absence of an auto guider, I don't see if it offering much in terms of polar alignment, so I'm not sure if I'm missing something.
If you're trying to go light, you don't really need the latitude base. However, you would need 2 ballheads. One to attach the tracker to the tripod, and the other to attach the camera to the star tracker.
Fantastic video. Really helped me a lot. One question, you pointed out that the reticule doesn't light up unless it's oriented with 6 at the top. Does that mean, if you need the light, you'd have to flip the orientation?
Yeah, if I have to recheck the polar alignment once everything is attached, that means my camera is hanging upside down (not exactly safe in the middle of the night)
Hi Peter I know you have done something very similar but any Chance you could do a tutorial on polar alignment in the southern hemisphere with the Skyguider pro and auto-guiding specifically, I am very new to it all and your videos help tremendously! thanks from New Zealand! (very demanding I know)
I have a Southern Hemisphere polar alignment video: ua-cam.com/video/VKjGc-VjUFk/v-deo.html I haven't used an auto-guider with a southern polar alignment yet though. However, the actual auto-guiding process will be the same, regardless of hemisphere.
@@PeterZelinka I've watched your southern hemisphere tutorial and found it great, except ... I can't find the stars you mentioned. Based on the southern cross and pointers, I know approximately where they should be, but I've got nothing. Any tips? I am looking at getting a guider as I figure that is my only option.
I have not run across this information yet. When you use the Polar Scope App, in settings do you use for retical orientation "eyesight " or "telescope"?
Hi Peter. Is it possible to use the declination bracket without the weights? I just want the polar scope to be visible all the time so I can fine tune the adjustment without taking the ball head off and the adapter.
Yeah, theoretically that could work. However, attaching your camera gear to one end, with nothing on the other end will likely cause an extreme weight imbalance. This would put a lot of stress on the tracker and it might not work.
Peter thanks for posting this video as it made setting up the SkyGuider pro so much easier. Your explinations are so well laid out and helped fastrack things for me - well done. The only issue I found by reversing the counter weight is that you have to rotate the assembly around when doing the scope alignment, then return back. I found that breathing on the assembly can through the alignment off and thus rotating back and forth results in the same issue. In the default setup, the counterweight would sit at the bottom, thus the scope light would be on and one could perform the alignment from that position. Also the way that the entire arm mounts onto the skyguider seems more secure in this position, given that way the mount gets secured. I've opted to purchase an extension arm to allow the weight to go further down in the default setup. Thought's, or suggestions?
Only video worth watching when you want to set up you Starguider Pro for the first time and how mount your different lenses and the only video explaining step by step and clearly. Great job 👍🏻
At about 18:30 you recommend mounting the camera to the short end of the declination bracket and the counterweight rod and counterweights to the long end to gain more counterweight leverage. However, the polar scope illuminator only turns on when the declination bracket is oriented long end up. I tried your scheme and discovered I would have to perform polar alignment with the camera down and counterweights up. I went back to iOptron’s intended configuration and added an extra counterweight. I own iOptron’s original Sky Guider, so I already have two extra counterweights. I might not need a counterweight bar extension. I can now perform final polar alignment with the payload configuration exactly as it will be when shooting. BTW shining a laser through the polar scope for rough alignment is a big help.
I just received my SkyGuider pro yesterday and noticed the same thing, there is only one way the polar scope is lit and that makes the camera on the bottom. I was wondering if there was a way to reorientate the center piece the dec bracket mounts to but that piece seems to be press fit on the shaft. I dont want to try and pry it off unless I know it can be done...
I discovered this recently myself and went back to the original intended configuration. Frankly I'm surprised he never mentioned this or replied. This is a big oversight on his part as many don't want to unexpectedly discover why polar alignment just got harder due to the absence of an illuminated reticle. Also, you have to wonder did he USE this product? He would of known from the get go something was amiss. Clearly he no longer follows up. How unfortunate.
You setup the mount/Skyguider for alignment with the north star, before attaching the bracking/camera/counterweights. Once that's done, you won't need to align the head anymore since the mount will be "zero'd" as needed. That's how he can rotating things, since you won't need to do the original alignments (which DO require the mount to be oriented for the reticle to illuminate. Hope this helps.
@@trackedmiatas3509 People purchase it for its mobility. Every time it's moved, polar alignment is necessary, or did you not notice he does presentations with this mount in various locations lol
Hey Peter, wonderful video-- I learned so much! One thing I found helpful with the polar alignment was bringing a green laser with me out in the field. My friend Bill actually showed me this method. We would place the green laser up against the polar scope, and from there you can compare the beam of the green laser that is shining through the scope out to the sky, with where the north star is, and roughy adjust the tracker from there so you can get the north star in the scope. You know you have it when the beam finally points at the north star through the scope. This tends to eliminate a lot of struggle and frustration out of the way before you get a precise alignment by looking through the scope with your eye once you have the north star locked in. This worked well with our SkyTracker Pro's and will look forward to using the same method on the SkyGuiderPro. Hope this helps!
Yeah, a laser pointer really helps to speed things up! You can easily slot that into the SkyTracker Pro polar scope hole too.
Just be sure to watch out for any planes!
I am just starting to take interest in any type of astrophotography. It just so happens that we are taking a driving vacation to Albuquerque coincident with the 2023 annular eclipse.
I have found Peter's videos on the Ioptron SkyGuider extremely helpful in taking my first step in tracking the eclipse. I have been practicing and it has been very necessary to get a feel for the set up and settings.
One thing I did try on my own was to use a geared head beneath the camera instead of a ballhead. The geared head allows me to make very small movements when trying to align my target, especially with the camera being higher and creating leverage which made the ballhead difficult to control. I used the Sunwayfoto GH-PROii.
I would appreciate any feedback.
Thanks Peter for a great set of videos, I will be using many more in the near future.
I'm a real beginner at this and decided to first try my Nikon D5500 and lens with a standard tripod first while I learn about the Sky Guider Pro and Sky-Watcher Adventurer and ultimately decide which one to buy. This was a great intro to the Sky Guider! Thanks!
Very, very helpful and informative video. I just got a SkyGuider Pro and I watched this whole video once while waiting for it to arrive, then a second time after trying it out for the first time (somewhat incorrectly, I'm now seeing). The reconfiguring of the declination bracket is not at all obvious. Thank you for explaining everything so clearly!
For ballhead installation, I suspect one can omit the grooved ring adapter altogether. There is a spare 3/8-24 chrome thumbscrew in the kit like the one for attaching the counterweight shaft. Using the supplied Allen wrench remove the 4 screws attaching the grooved ring. then use the thumbscrew to directly mount your ball head.
I was looking for a walk-through on how these things work because I’m thinking about buying one and this video did exactly that. Awesome tutorial, thank you!
Hi Peter, I thought about the issue with the screw on the D bracket interfering with the mount that rotates screws. My solution was to replace the D bracket screw with a 6mm x 10mm hex set screw. Since we only need to touch when we setup or tear down a 3mm hex screw driver to tighten and loosen the set screw. Now the camer/lens/telecope can freely rotate without obstruction.
Thanks for this tutorial. I've struggled with the SkyGuider Pro, and finally got it to work correctly tonight. Just so others know, the higher the megapixel count on your camera, the more precise your alignment needs to be for the stars to stay sharp.
Hi Peter
Great video. Perfectly clear instructions.
May I suggest as I have just found out, frustratingly, novices like me using the equipment for the first time you should get use to the set up in daylight before trying for the first time. I tried it last night for the first time and by the time I had shuffled between your video and the actual equipment the clouds came over. Hay ho at least I now know how to set up and align everything. Got as far as alighing the poling star and made the mistake of then going to attach the camera at which point the clouds covered everything. Other frustration is that the bag that the tracker comes in only fits back in if you move it back to zero which means if you are always working from the same location you have to re-alight every time if you know what I mean. I have moved to a bigger bespoke bag to save that happening. Hope you don't mind the comments, just views from a new novice. Appreciate all the courses you provide. Nikon P900
I use my Skyguider Pro maybe 1x per year and everytime I have to re-learn how to use it, I go back to your videos, Lol...Thanks for making these!
Good video. Just an observation, with regard to your declamation bracket modification. When modified and attached to the sky guider pro, the resulting orientation of the radical on the polar scope will be 180° off. 12 o'clock will be down, 6 o'clock will be up, and all of the indicators on the reticle will be upside down.
Nice concise video...Am I missing where you explain that the polar scope dial is inverted when you flip the short and long ends of the reticle? Seems like it shouldnt be an issue but it might be good if people knew that would be the case...thanks!
Frankly, every polar scope alignment is different. Mine only lights up at a weird angle. Some people are lucky enough to have their polar scopes aligned correctly straight from the factory. Therefore, if they flip the Dec bracket around, the polar scope reticle will be upside down when everything is attached.
Peter your explanation was excellent and easy to follow. Thanks I will follow up with your other courses.
Thanks so much for this video! The directions and video that came with my SkyGuider Pro were very confusing. You really helped clarify the setup process. Looking forward to trying mine out!
For iOS devices there is iOptron’s Polar Scope app for polar alignment in northern or southern hemisphere.
Thanks for this, Peter. I’m new to astrophotography with a tracker and have just taken delivery of the iOptron. This tutorial has really helped.
Hi Peter, great video, but, I kind of got confused, since I am struggling with this issue now. On 2:27 you said the red light should turn on with 12 at the bottom and 6 at the top and then on 4:47 you said, the red light appears only with 12 at the top and 6 at the bottom, so, which one is it? Did I misunderstood something?
oops, good catch! I misspoke at 2:27! I meant to say that the light should turn on when the 12 is at the top, just like a clock.
:( I was rooting for 2:27, that is how mine is working. Thanks a lot, I will need to approach IOptron and happy new year by the way.
@@al284028 They'll most likely send you a PDF with instructions on how to re-align your polar scope. They may also give you the option to send it in and have them fix it.
If I'm not mistaken, it should still function the same. In other words, regardless of where the numbers are at, you'll still want to position Polaris in the same spot on the reticule. For example, if the app tells you to put it to 3 o'clock, you'd put Polaris at that spot, even if the numbers don't match.
I'd still reach out to them though and see what they say
thanks man, today I received my skyguider pro, great tip to re-setup the counter weight!
Very helpful video- thanks for sharing your experiences and wisdom. I'll be referring to this video often as I become more familiar with the gear. One initial step that seems to have been skipped is attachment to a tripod. Many of us come to astrophotography from earth based photography : ) with a very expensive camera/ video tripod. Are these tripods equally appropriate and adaptable to the Skyguider? Do they require an additional mounting adapter (vs the typical plate)?
I know I am late to the party but, I just purchased a RedCat 51 and it fits nicely on the SkyGuider. However I am not sure if I can also use ball head with declination bracket with the Redcat. I see with the wide angle lens and DSLR it works nicely to make it easier to move camera. Didn't see that mentioned or discussed using RedCat. Without a ball mount with the RedCat on the declination mount pretty hard to move camera around without messing with polar alignment.
Again, I so enjoy your lessons and information. I am just learning my SkyGuider Pro and feel much more confident!
Extremely helpful for this newbie, thanks! It's a pity that iOptron doesn't provide useful tutorials, or even link to third-party videos such as yours for new users.
Very well done video. I rented a SkyGyider Pro and would not have figured out that I need to reverse the declination bracket.
Thanks for making this! Just got my Skyguider this week and your video helped me set it up and get started.
I think we were the only ones not invited to the Sony soccer game party. White lenses jabbing out everywhere. Enjoying your videos still. Will look forward for more.
I have been sitting on my tracker for two weeks lol, this video was awesome!!!! Thank you!!!
You solved my confusion! You’re a skilled teacher.
Great tutorial , Peter. Really like the way you calmly explain every detail . I'm just starting out in this fascinating hobby . i am really confused about dark , bias , and flat frames so i'm concentrating on just taking long single shots at present . i am torn between the Skyguider Pro which looks a really solid piece of kit and the skywatcher star adventurer and additional wedge . i have a small refractor (WO ZS61) which i intend to use more than a traditional Camera / lens setup . I was leaning towards the skywatcher but now i find myself looking at the iOptron.
They both work well, and they both have some annoyances. For me, I think the SkyGuider Pro is less annoying to use than the Star Adventurer, but others would argue the opposite. I've got a full article here which might help you decide:
www.peterzelinka.com/blog/2018/8/which-star-tracker-should-i-get
Peter Zelinka Many thanks for your feedback . I read the article and agree that the ioptron is my best option .
HI Peter. I am correct in thinking I do not need a ball head attached if using a long lens or a wide lens? By the way, this is a great video and you are explaining things very well. Thank you.
Mate this video is brilliant. I just ordered my Skyguider Pro. Can't wait to use it. Thank you so much for posting this. Have a great Christmas 🎄 😊
Hi @peter. I got the ioptron skyguider pro just last october this year and I was watching your tutorial. But i was confused already because ioptron has already changed the orientation of the the declination bracket. The shorter end should be at the bottom. Because the polar scope doesn't light ON when it's the other way around as you mentioned in your video. Perhaps they have changed it already. Also they have removed the numbers(1-12) already. Your tutorial is really informative. Thank you. #clearskies
Great video Peter! My husband got me one of these for Christmas, I had no idea what it was or what to do with it. This video cleared everything up for me in a clear, concise and easily understandable manner. Thanks so much!! I truly appreciate your instruction!! 🙂
Nicely done Peter, thanks. I was puzzled, why use the rotating collar on the declination bracket if you are going to mount a ball-head on top? The ball-head pans just like the rotating collar allows for. I just used the big screw through the declination bracket and mount the ball- head directly to it. The only reason I could see is that it may make it easier in the field at night to switch to the long lens mounted to the declination bracket. I haven't got comfortable enough with mine yet to try any long lens. :)
Exactly! I guess I forgot to mention that in the second take I recorded. I used to do it that way too, but I started shooting more and more telephoto stuff, and it became a pain to constantly reattach/remove the circular adapter piece.
Awesome video Peter. I am looking at skyguiders currently, and when I take the plunge then I am sure this video will be watched again.
Hello Peter. I'm just soaking up your knowledge like a sponge and I know it will make a huge difference when I get my SkyGuider Pro in February for my birthday.
I have my eye on the William's Latitude Vixen mount but at 33 degrees North, Arizona is, I guess, considered "Middle Latitude" so would a Low or High work best?
Thanks for all the great content!
It occurs to me, all the times you say, 'that's probably close enough' could be why you get so much better results from guiding than just polar alignment. Just a thought.
This is awesome! Could you please do an update with the ipolar integration? Thanks!
Hi Peter,
Wonderful video on the SkyGuider Pro, your video is the reason I bought one. This may be a dumb question but when I put he bracket on the head and line up the notches on the red piece, I have rotated the viewfinder piece 180 from where it started. Does that matter as long as I have the north star centered?
Thanks for the introduction tutorial. Mine just showed up yesterday and am looking forward to using it. One question I had was what happens if you over charged the mount? Does it still work? Does it need to be left on for a while before you use it? I would love to hear about your experience.
You say having the camera on the longest part of the dec bar causes balancing issues, can you go into this more? I've had to swap mine over. It would seem they've changed how the bracket is constructed as mine was on the lower end if that makes sense? You talk about it at 17:50. My camera and lens believe it or not came out at 1025g and the counterweight is 1350g so I was having balancing issues. The weight was too heavy and meants I wouldn't be able to take milky way. Having swapped it around I can now actually balance it. Do you know if this causes tracking problems? I don't really want to be throwing away exposures I could've kept by just buying the 1KG weight. Cheers.
Got my Sky Guider this morning and this is the video I needed to have a good start. Thank you.
Hello there! Thank you for your tutorial. My question is after I do a polar alignment and I am ready to go do I have to loosen the clutch during tracking or keep it tightened if I am only using a ball head? The reason why I am asking this is that when I am mounting my camera system and loosening the clutch, the camera system falls to the other side which means that the motor does not have the power to hold the system. Thank you!
I am missing the point of the ball mount. Why not mount the camera right on the declination bracket? On the long end of the bracket if balance is an issue?
Hello Peter am thankful for this detailed and informative video on how to setup my equipment. I have a concern however. When I aligned the scope to 36/44 (previously 12/6) and locked it, my alignment screw for the bracket plate would turn downwards and not up. With all this balancing by the weight and opening the gear doesn’t this affect the scope alignment or it doesn’t matter anymore?
Why not use the wide angle lens in the same way as the telephoto lens (without a ball head)? Great video by the way, thank you for sharing!
Polar finder was broken on my S8 (no menu button - and reading the reviews, it's not just that phone). So tried a free app called Polar Clock. Sufficiently similar reticle, no adds, free and has an accessible menu. It's nice when things work.
Thanks so much!
One question though: I flipped the bracket as you showed and I'm 60 degrees up in Northern Hemisphere, which is pretty much the limit for the standard wedge (I can't go any further, or can I?). Anyway, the question is that how to go about having my camera upside down now? Because I can't attach the bracket with the CW and the camera to the mount in such a way that the camera is on top. Now the only option is to have the camera at the bottom, the CW is on top and the mount rotates in the wrong direction (clockwise). I'm confused :(
Can't thank you enough for this video! Even as a pro photographer this thing just seemed daunting - but your well thought-out, detailed tutorial makes me feel really confident to be going on my first shoot tomorrow. Thank you thank you thank you!
Hello Peter, Happy new year. Would it be too much for a favor is i ask you to review the skywatcher az gti wifi goto tracker? First came out in 2017 but i never really saw any good and honest reviews here in youtube. I want to really know how long and accurately i can long-exposed a photo with at least 300mm focal length and with no star trails. You and Trevor Jones are the only two that i trust with honest reviews. Saw both of your websites and your reviews with trackers but i find it surprising that the two of you never really reviewed it.
I've used it once, but not enough to give any real insight.
A few of my students have it, and they seem to really like it! It's basically a heavy duty Star Adventurer that has Go-To functionality, as I understand it.
I think you'd be able to get at least 3 minute exposures at 300mm. You could probably even push it to 5 minutes. I can't say for sure though.
Due to a lack of space in my car (I've already got too much gear and not enough room) I don't currently have any plans to review it. However, if a retailer were to send me a temporary demo unit, I'd gladly review it and make some tutorials.
Great video. Is it possible to have the iPolar electronic polar scope installed in the existing SkyGuider mount and have a second optical polar scope mounted elsewhere on the SkyGuider Pro so you have the option for aligning either electronically or optically depending on you conditions?
Thanks for the video, but this configuration may not apply in all instances. I went through the process of reversing the bracket as shown in the video. This didn't work for me as I didn't have enough clearance between my camera with the telephoto lens attached. The reason is because I have an extended grip on my camera so that I can have two batteries powering the camera. Now I just need to start over and switch the bracket back around as it came. . I just wanted to point out this issue to those using extended grips. Thanks for all of the great info, this was very well illustrated.
I correct myself....I had a DOH moment. I reconfigured and mounted the camera and telephoto lens to the iOptron directly to the grip and not the lens. This worked just fine and even provides enough clearance all the way around.
If you mounted the circular piece to your camera body (battery grip) that may cause you some balancing problems, especially with a big telephoto lens. In your case, since you have the battery grip, you may want to revert everything to the initial configuration.
@@PeterZelinka Yes, I tried the configuration that you showed but after manipulating the camera in various positions I noticed that the corner of the camera grip and the Skyguider would barely touch. I reverted back to the original position but with a 100-400mm telephoto lens, I had to order another counterweight to balance the camera. Thanks! Richard
Battery grips will only add weight and more strain to the gears of the tracker.. My D750 with one full charged EN-EL15 battery lasted all night when one time i tried to take timelapse on the milkyway until sunrise. You dont need that much juice when using a mid-range to pro level dslr. However, using a mirrorless camera is a different story.
I am a total newbie at this just got the tracker set it all up by the video. I have one question because in all the videos I see nothing about how to start tracking. When everything is ready how do you start the tracking is there a button you have to press when you press the shutter on the camera? I'm 66 and just starting in this because I love the night sky but need a little more instruction.
There's a power switch on top of the SkyGuider Pro. Just flip that switch before you begin taking your photos, and it will begin tracking.
PSA, Williams optics sells a counterweight extension bar which is cheap, ships internationally really quick and gave me enough extra leverage to use one weight with my a7iii + 100-400 + 1.4 teleconverter. Always nice to carry less weight and have a single setup that's more versatile without having to swap weights on and off.
Thanks Peter, could not work out why it wasn’t balancing, never thought to flip the dec bracket 🤯
Awesome tutorial. You mention about getting the ZWO ASI120MM-S instead of the ASI120MM. Looking at prices right now, and the ASI120MC-S is cheaper by ~$30, any downside on using that camera as autoguider? Both are 1.2Meg cameras and USB3. Basically I'm replicating your setup to work with my Pentax camera, and Mac OS X based.
I believe that MC-S is color, I may be wrong though. There's nothing wrong with having a color camera for guiding, but a monochrome camera will be more sensitive to light, and might be less grainy.
@@PeterZelinka Thanks for the reply, yes, it's color. I'll let you know how well it does. I should be getting first light in about 5-10 days. Hopefully I won't bang my head over trying to save $30.
What about the Equatorial base for this? Would it replace the base you show here and is that more advantageous? Of course, my main use of this is astrophotography and I do consider that important secret factor, Guidoscope.
Question: having the camera at the short end looking into the scope gets you 6 o’clock and 12 o’cklock upside down or am I missing something?
This was exactly what I was thinking of asking. I just received the SkyGuider Pro, and there is indeed no red light visible when doing it this way. That could do with some clarification. Excellent video btw.
@@diederick76 Same here, I tried it and no polar aligner was visible. Not sure if he hadn't noticed, or if they made a revision.
I'm half guessing since I don't have it, but it looks like that bracket can be aligned independedly from the polar scope alignment?
Also, the bracket is not aligned most of the time anyway, so having it the stock way around wouln't have the polar scope aligned (even if the bracket can't be aligned separately from the part that is holding it).
Lastly, itlooks like the polar alignment is done first i.e. you can do before even mounting the camera or the bracket, so shouldln't matter if you can't after maybe.
Good, you mentioned the balance issue using a ball head. It’s a convenience/inconvenience trade off. Is it easier in the end to stick with RA/DEC movements regardless of focal length? The answer probably depends on how comfortable you are pointing by RA and DEC.
Thank you Peter! This is the one video I was missing. Thanks for the detailed explanation, it’s of tremendous help!
Such a good video. I went through all the same misteps you described. If only I saw this a few years ago! Thanks!
Awesome video. Loads of good information. However I do find the bright white background a bit much.
Thanks alot for these videos man. You've been a great help. Clear skies.
Where are you hearing that you can over charge it? I'm pretty sure most chargers nowadays have an auto-cutoff circuit when charged? Not sure they would not have one in this device.
Thanks so much!! This was EXACTLY what I was looking for. I’m on to your full course
Question: are you planning any updates of this video with the iPolar? My StarTracker came with the iPolar. Thanks again!
Peter, have you seen the William Optics Vixen Wedge?
Looks great and meant to be rock solid. Tempted to get one for my Star Adventurer.
I've seen it, but I haven't tried it yet. If my iOptron base breaks, I might get it
The base it comes with has worked for me but the William Optics base was so cheap and it looked nicely machines. I wasn’t disappointed, very nicely made!
Hey Peter !
Thx for this great introduction into the Skyguider.
Just one hint or question: to solve the issue with the "long" screw at the declenation bracket which interfeares with the camera mounting; can I just shorten the screw?
You could, you can also buy a shorter screw for less than a dollar at most hardware stores. I've just gotten used to dealing with the problem though, I'd rather not mess up the original screw.
Hi peter, amazing video. I have been a user of thr HEQ5-PRO for 9 years, but just got myself a new (black) sky-guider pro delivered today. Please let me know how many hours will I have to charge it the 1st time around? Until the bulb blinks or longer? TIA.
Just got my first mount, the SkyGuider Pro, this last week and, this tutorial really helps. I am now considering the course offered. Probably will.
Peter, how about doing a class for the Sky Guide or pro? I would be happy to sign up for it. It would have to probably be a few days but I am sure you could get five or 10 people to sign up. I am referring to a face to face, out in the field class.
I'll be teaching quite a few workshops next year, with an emphasis on star trackers. Stay tuned!
I have noticed on my skyguider pro to have the mount 12 at the top and 6 at the bottom, the mount for 12 is the male side of mount while the 6 is female side. When u put on the DEC bracket I assume it doesnt matter you have to turn the mount again to have the camera side on the bracket on the top side? I have seen some vides where this is the opposite. Thanks
The way you mount the camera on ball-head around the 15:00 minute mark doesn’t work for pointing your camera in just any direction. With an RA tracker, declination needs to rotate on a plane that is perpendicular to RA, otherwise the rotation point is no longer the NCP. TL;DR version, if you mount your camera like that, the tracker will not follow the movement of the sky.
Great video. Can i use Nikon P1000 there?
Wouldn't it be useful to dial in one's latitude (over a leveled base, of course) prior to hunting for Polaris through the alignment scope? That leaves one to only rotate the azimuth until Polaris shows up pretty much in the middle. It takes away half of the 'error' from an initial positioning to find it. (I ordered the SkyGuider Pro yesterday, July 25, 2020.)
Planning to use the guider to help with the eclipse coming up (April 2024). Since it's a short event, will just pointing it due North be close enough? Thx
How sturdy should the tripod be. Any max weight limit I should aim for? Do I need anything else to attach it to the tripod? Awesome video by the way!
Thank you so much Peter. I really hadn't understood how the rotating camera clamp was supposed to be used. Now I do!
That was a good introduction to the SkyGuider, I like your style.
I have just two remarks:
When using a ball head with a rotating base you can lose the mounting base, it then just adds unnecessary height and weight. I have a low height ball head permanently attached to the bracket.
And if you don't use a heavy DSLR and lens, mounting the camera without a ball head on the short side of the bracket won't get balanced.
very good in depth tutorial for this mount.
Thanks
This is awesome but I am still trying to find Ordering information for the declination bracket?..
This was amazing. Start to finish. My skyguider pro just arrived and I set it all up as you suggested. Thanks!
Hey Peter, if you turn the big black peace around and mount it the opposite way, that the polar scope inside has to be turned too. So it’s not lighten anymore. How do you handle that?
great video; great explanations, but a question. why not use the "telephoto lens" setup for wide angle as well? what useful purpose does the ball head provide?
I have the same question. I'm thinking it's just for convenience of being able to position the camera in more ways. The only reason you wouldn't use the ball head setup with a telephoto is because of the extra weight sticking out a lot further and making it harder to balance.
Hi Peter, this may be a completely pointless question, but I like to know why I'm doing something rather than it just being because I'm told to. You mention turning the red piece on the front to align the reticle and make sure it lights up red, but then later when aligning your camera, you turn the declination bracket, which in turn would turn the reticle, so my question is, why do we need to align the reticle? Is it just for performing the polar alignment? But one would assume that if we are rotating around the pole, it shouldn't matter if the reticle is aligned with 12 at the top.
If you are doing a precise polar alignment, the polar scope should be rotated around to the correct orientation. Then you can use the app to help position Polaris in the correct spot on the reticle. Once you've completed the polar alignment, you can rotate everything back to the normal position.
However, if you get your polar alignment set, and then add the declination bracket and camera, it will likely throw off the alignment a bit. Therefore, you'd have to do another polar alignment check after everything has been attached. This can be very scary to do though. To get that reticle lined up properly, your camera may have to be upside down.
This is another reason I recommend getting an auto-guider and using SharpCap for a polar alignment. It will make this whole process much simpler and straightforward, and you don't need to bother looking through the polar scope anymore.
This video is do helpful thank you! I had zero issues setting up and only had to exchange the screws (smaller mm for the bigger mm) for the ballhead mount! 👍
Thanks for the vid! One thing I noticed is if I mount my camera on the short end of the bracket like you suggested, I can't do a polar alignment with the camera attached because the red light doesn't shine into the scope. I have to rotate the bracket so the counterweight is at the top (12 o clock position) in order for the polar reticle to light up. I guess there isn't a way around this?
Yeah, I just shine my red headlamp light over the polar scope to see the reticule
this is a really good video for managing the skyguider pro. Just two questions: How you can make the polar alignment during the day (for taking solar pictures for example) and how you can attached a telescope to the whole setup. Thanks in advanced
If you need to do a polar alignment during the day, simply point the star tracker North. Also, dial your latitude into the base. That's about as good as you can get, without having any stars.
The telescope will be mounted on the included dovetail plate. It's a square piece with 4 holes in it. You'll use the loose screws that came in the bag to attach the dovetail plate to the circular camera mount (the one we screw into the bottom of a telephoto lens or the ballhead).
Hopefully that makes sense
Can you move your auto guider from one scope to another?
Supperb video! I have a question. How to attach a Skywatcher maksutov 127 OTA on to the Skyguider Pro ?
Peter, thanks for this informative video. Are there other reasons to use the ballhead with a wide angle lens, or is it just ease-of-use with rotating the camera around? Just wondering cause if in the field, at night, shooting with a long-lens, if I want to then shoot wide angle, do I really need to mess with putting the ballhead on?
I noticed when you turned the polar scope... the reticle seemed to be a bit off center when spinning. Is that intentional or just due to the Chinese manufacturing?
According to my research, it's supposed to "wobble" slightly. However, if you center something (top of a flag pole) in the polar scope and rotate it, the object should stay centered.
If the object drifts out of the center of the crosshair while rotating, that indicates a problem.
Peter Zelinka So it looked like your reticle was not centered, indicating a problem. The solution is ...? If the reticle isn’t centered you’ll never achieve accurate polar alignment and the field will drift in declination, or if you are autoguiding the field will rotate around the guidestar. So you’ll still get trailing. Does the polar scope have tiny adjustment screws to move the reticle around in the field? It should not rotate as you turn the polar axis. I’m testing the Fornax Lightrack and getting accurate polar alignment is proving to be tough with it, so its accurate tracking is for nought.
Let us say I get the perfect sky shot I wanted in a nightscape scenario with a long exposure of the night sky but the foreground is blurred. Would I just turn off the tracker and take a regular exposure of the foreground? This is what I'm most confused about, lmao. Because I do most of my nightscape with two shots where I blend the foreground and sky together.
How important is to have the latitude/Alt-AZ base on the field? I only plan to shoot wide-angle for now, so I don't believe I'll need the base, declination bracket, or the CW kit. That way, I'll just get the mount with polar scope installed, and purchase the rest later if necessary. The bracket and CW kit - I am sure I won't need right now because my setup isn't all that heavy, but not sure about the base. In the absence of an auto guider, I don't see if it offering much in terms of polar alignment, so I'm not sure if I'm missing something.
If you're trying to go light, you don't really need the latitude base. However, you would need 2 ballheads. One to attach the tracker to the tripod, and the other to attach the camera to the star tracker.
@@PeterZelinka yep, understood. Cheers, mate!
Fantastic video. Really helped me a lot. One question, you pointed out that the reticule doesn't light up unless it's oriented with 6 at the top. Does that mean, if you need the light, you'd have to flip the orientation?
Yeah, if I have to recheck the polar alignment once everything is attached, that means my camera is hanging upside down (not exactly safe in the middle of the night)
Hi Peter I know you have done something very similar but any Chance you could do a tutorial on polar alignment in the southern hemisphere with the Skyguider pro and auto-guiding specifically, I am very new to it all and your videos help tremendously! thanks from New Zealand! (very demanding I know)
I have a Southern Hemisphere polar alignment video:
ua-cam.com/video/VKjGc-VjUFk/v-deo.html
I haven't used an auto-guider with a southern polar alignment yet though. However, the actual auto-guiding process will be the same, regardless of hemisphere.
@@PeterZelinka I've watched your southern hemisphere tutorial and found it great, except ... I can't find the stars you mentioned. Based on the southern cross and pointers, I know approximately where they should be, but I've got nothing. Any tips? I am looking at getting a guider as I figure that is my only option.
I have not run across this information yet. When you use the Polar Scope App, in settings do you use for retical orientation "eyesight " or "telescope"?
Telescope
Can we take panorama shots with sky guider pro? please reply
Hi Peter. Is it possible to use the declination bracket without the weights? I just want the polar scope to be visible all the time so I can fine tune the adjustment without taking the ball head off and the adapter.
Yeah, theoretically that could work. However, attaching your camera gear to one end, with nothing on the other end will likely cause an extreme weight imbalance. This would put a lot of stress on the tracker and it might not work.
@@PeterZelinka I see. Thank you.
I forgot to mention my camera and lens is only 2.2 lbs. I don't know if that makes a difference.
Peter thanks for posting this video as it made setting up the SkyGuider pro so much easier. Your explinations are so well laid out and helped fastrack things for me - well done. The only issue I found by reversing the counter weight is that you have to rotate the assembly around when doing the scope alignment, then return back. I found that breathing on the assembly can through the alignment off and thus rotating back and forth results in the same issue. In the default setup, the counterweight would sit at the bottom, thus the scope light would be on and one could perform the alignment from that position. Also the way that the entire arm mounts onto the skyguider seems more secure in this position, given that way the mount gets secured. I've opted to purchase an extension arm to allow the weight to go further down in the default setup. Thought's, or suggestions?