Dropping by to help the algorithm, Rael... Good stuff! Always learning with Balkan Shipyard... I like your boat building philosophy... Keep shunting, my friend 🤙
Thanks for an interesting video! What about having two sculls, one on each end? When they can be so easily raised and locked with the smart solution with the rope and the cleat and added to that the 15 degree angle that lifts the blade up an extra bit… In that case you always have a reserve scull and can also at any moment quickly and easily scull in both directions. I’m also looking forward to hear more about how you can build your proas without epoxy. Wish you all the best for Balkan Shipyard!
In big waves the bows crash right through... It frightens me to have an oar raised near the bow. Another problem is dead weight on the bow, it too worries me. If epoxy goes, plywood goes with it... Pure wood is the answer, I hope that day will come, a bigger boat with wood planking.... Keep Shunting man, BSY
Hope alls well, Rael. Always find your videos interesting and useful! Hoping you’re making progress on your new proa, and frequently thinking of you. Dan S. Michigan & Texas USA
Thanks 4 the Energy Dan, filling the kitty framing a house for 13 hours a day... Time seems to be short and getting shorter.... Even a day on the boat is out of the question! Soon may the Force B by our side, then the build goes on. Keep Shunting bro, Balkan Shipyards.
An interesting video as always; many thanks. Could you add weight to the bottom of the blade of the AD Scull so that it just about sinks and stays in a more or less vertical position? Then you wouldn't need a support. I might be missing something obvious of course. Can you move backwards with an AD Scull? How will you seal your hatches? Nice to see the build coming along.
Thanx man, The scull lifts as result of sailing fast, water pushes it up, only the prop will work I believe. Mr Doi can scull backwards, how he does it is beyond me! Hatches will have a wooden frame glued to deck around them, so the hatch goes between the frame and coaming, then a small hole towards the akas will let water out... No rubber needed, simple and reliable. Thanks for being with us! Balkan Shipyards....
Hi Rael, Your videos and your "never-give-up" attitude inspires me, thanks for that. I thought of a solution for your AD-scul issue. How about putting the "eye", where your AD-scul connects to the plank , on a sliding rail and putting a hinge on the fulcrum? When you need to move the AD-scul to the other side of the plank, "unlock" the hinge, hinge it up (from ---- to V to I), slide it along the rail, turn it 180 degrees while you walk, lower it back in the water and secure the hinge again? Hope you understand what I mean, if not, let me know and I try to make a mock-up to show you. Hope it helps you! Regard, Johan
Thanks Johan! That's exactly why I started this channel, so I can share what I think, but others too can do the same therefor we can all grow together... Good stuff man, never thought about this type of a solution... You got me thinking... I think I can imagine what you mean, yet I feel it needs to be looked into further, since dragging the oar along, could be more difficult than carrying/dragging it, since you're not as restricted. The track will add safety though.... interesting.... If you have the time to share your idea with us, it will be great! I hope to assemble the boat in my new workshop soon, the January next year, the AD-Scull will be on the agenda, good timing! I will see what we can do. Thanx again. Keep Shunting bro, Balkan Shipyards
@@BalkanShipyards If you also add a line from the top of the fulcrum to your mast-support....and connect your continues line to the track....you can hinge up the blade and the other end of your AD-scul, lash them to the vertical line (with a rubber band or whatever) so that the whole AD-scul assembly will slide to the opposite end when you shunt your mast
@@JohanQuist I'm not sure, at times it takes a good pull to get the sail moving, adding friction and weight may become overload.... Good idea though... I got it, yet it will complicate the shunt... Keep thinking, it's all good Johan, good ideas can come anytime from anywhere!!! All d best! Balkan Shipyards
At the start of the video I was asking myself how you could possibly do sheet to tiller steering with an oar... the strut is genius! Also, I think you've invented a new proa rudder. I havn't seen this one before.
Thanx Dominic, the AD-Scull was invented by Atsushi Doi, he shares his stuff here on youtube check him out... I hope it works, and hope to take Make O'Break out for a spin and try it out... Though there's lots to do at the moment, so hopefully in a month or two.
@@BalkanShipyards yes I had seen the AD-scull before I knew about your videos - but have a much better understanding of how it works now from you. I made a yuloh for my monohull with some success. I'm gonna make a ad-scull for my wharram at some point. A long oar to push the stern through the tack will be very handy I think
@@dominictarrsailing I use the sculling oar to tack a shunter... Meaning if I get caught backwinded, I can scull myself through the eye of the wind back to Pacific. Your idea of getting a wharram through, by means of sculling oar, is on the money!!! keep shunting....
@@BalkanShipyards yeah funny thing is this wharram is some times harder to tack than it would be to shunt! The hulls are actually symmetrical except for the skeg... so a little bit tempted...
@@dominictarrsailing An ad-scull will solve that... I suppose backing the jib is a must! I sailed a few times on a Tiki 38, tacked every time I will say. It's tempting, but if you built it from scratch, and made it as a shunter to begin with... Otherwise, use your energy to focus on going sailing as a tacker.....
When do you use polyureathane vs when do you use epoxy? PU is also very handy when cruising because you just squeeze it out of a tube instead of mixing it and managing all this sticky stuff, not just the glue but also the tools you apply it with etc
I trust epoxy more, so I may glue with PU then add fillets, the way I make hatches, I will glue sheer clamps to the hull with PU, but then I epoxy the deck on and glass it over, so that sheer clap is there forever... I glue battens under my plywood decking planks with PU, since weight is above pushing them together... I trust epoxy more, bottom line. Keep Shunting Brah
The only ones who don't run aground are those that never leave the marina. You made the AD skull, can't you make a second one? then as you shunt you pull the skull up on deck and run a bungie over it so it stays on deck, then once you've shunted un bungie the other one and slide it down into the water. Now for you sheet to tiller problem, the thing with the wood is I worry it'll get in the way when you want to use the skull normally, how about a line attached near the stern/bow that you run over to the top of the skull handle and cleat, the tension from the bow/stern line will hold the skull up and the lanyard will hold the skull down. this could be acheived simply with a slot in the end of the skull handle and some knots in the line for the different heights you want the handle to sit at, put the bow/stern line in the slot in the handle and then tension the lanyard and cleat off. to shunt, un-cleat the lanyard a bit, remove the bow/stern line and pull the skull up on deck, then reverse for the other skull after the shunt..
First let me explain. The wooden prop is mounted only before connecting sheet to tiller steering. Meaning, the boat's on course and will be on this course for a long time. Under any other conditions, the wood prop is not mounted. having 2 sculls is smart... Though, heavy and deck space consuming... It will take some thought before that could happen, breaking a toe walking into the raised scull on deck, in a big sea, could mess up my day. It must come on Deck, if it could go under all good, but that's impossible. Anyway food for thought, I will surely start with 1, if I see another will help, a second will get made... I understand what you mean by having 2 lanyards, yet I doubt it will be as good as the prop. Since the wood is clamped to the sculls handle (the short handle, pointing down) , the oar cant rotate. using 2 ropes will not be as secure and fixed as with the wooden prop... Running aground? you put it well Dave! 2nd scull?? time will tell.... Keep Shunting hey, Balkan Shipyards
If there is another pivot point at the lower clamp, seems that it would help turn the oars angle more.. Dunno? Many options. Almost too many. Your Idea looks sound. Self steering seems right. ZPLAA
No need, it has lots of play in the ring, it can go further down, no problem. That's the Problem, when there are too many solutions to a problem, usually none are good.... Let's hope we've narrowed the list down... Good luck with your mono Bro!!! waiting 4 vids
Yeah, Rael. Very interesting concept. I happened to see one of that chap's videos just the other day. I think one of the guys in the Sydney Raid forum suggested it. I think that the video I watched was maybe 8-9 years old, but I could be wrong. When Youstarted talking aobut the skull, it was easy to see the pros, but wow what if you lost the skull during a shunt? I know you know. I watched a whole series of videos and blogs from Tim Anderson the US academic/engineer from the last 90s/early 2000s. One voyage he went out with his steering paddle and realised he hadn't tied it in. Write off a steering device, but luckily he had a smaller spare. Boats need emergency rudders or spares to get you by.. Would you envisage a clip on security device such as we used to secure ourselves on yachts when off shore at night or in heavy weather? You know, slip pin out of bushings, clip onto a line going to the new stern from the old one, arrive at new stern with skull, insert into bushing, remove from line..or something like that. Anyway, just thinking out loud. Brainstorming perhaps, mate.
Good to hear from you Col. Losing it overboard will be bad news, of course that would only happen in a huge sea where recovering it will probably be life threatening... In calm conditions I will jump over and get it, it's the middle of a shunt, the boat is hove to and sailing nowhere. I do plan on securing it somewhere somehow, but in fair conditions I will remove that line. It's not very easy to drop since it's big, though loosing it in a gale means tying myself to the boat and swim off to get it, no thanks. I also want a smaller spare, even if it's a standard oar, that I will use against the leeside... Spare stuff is a must! I rough weather ofcourse I will secure myself to the ship, I run a line from bow to bow and click on a carabiner from my safety harness, a self steering boat is not waiting for anybody.... Keep Shunting man....
@@BalkanShipyards Super smart idea. And, once again my dear old departed Dad used to say 'any fool can do a dance in light weather. It's when the heavy weather comes in that separates the sailors from the rest.. or words to that effect'. I bet you are super anxious to get it finished with and to start using it. Just wondering, and of course this is none of my business. But when you are afloat had you considered selling plans for the boat to help fund your time away from shore? I know that way back you said you were just gong to give away your plans in your videos as you have done with others. Anyway, just wondering as you would certainly move some - I mean just pdfs that might be on some automated platform, like Etsy or similar. Or even Duckworks.
@@colrodrick8784 Yes, I hope to sell plans, but I truly have none... Meaning, I just built this boat, no drawings, no computer design, nothing. So, I know there are various programs that you could design hulls with and they will print the exact pieces... When I have more time, Maybe even living aboard... I want to design the exact hull with one of these computer programs and have perfect templates... We See.... Keep Shunting Col....
Considering the scull blade floats, if the handle is fixed to prevent the blade from floating, then would the blade not tend to pull itself sideways (one way or the other) to try and float? Also, the blade, handle and shaft are each 1/3 of the length. Good, so the next question is what is the blade area as a percent of sail area or is that a valid measure in this case? Next after that is that it seems to me the length of the shaft (portion from pivot to top of blade) has to be related to the height the deck is above the water. I am guessing this is found or determined by the angle of the oar noticing that the handle is angled again as well to provide still straight enough to lift the oar out of the water, handle height for comfort, handle height for most efficient sculling, etc.
The handle has a small vertical handle under it. The Prop will get connected to the vertical handle, that way the scull can't turn. That I'm not worried about. The blade is about 1.2 % of SA, so probably 1 % is in the water. Each AD-Scull is designed for the boat it will be used on. On Crystal Clear I had a 4 meter scull that was very close in proportions to this one, so I assume the next one will probably be roughly the same... The reason the handle bends up is, so the blade flips over automatically at the beginning of each stroke. The bend at the fulcrum is a must! designing the scull takes some time messing around on the boat till you find the exact geometry... But no big deal Keep Shunting, Balkan Shipyards
Mr.Dobkins, It has been a long time since I watched your videos. I feel very happy to see that you appreciate and make good use of AD-scull so much. Recently I have also developed "Tandem Power Fin". The Power Fins is almost the same principle as the AD-scull. The two Power Fins, one in front and one behind, are a little more difficult to maneuver, but they reduce yawing and give my vessel a higher speed. ua-cam.com/video/h1tnBUsfyAA/v-deo.html
I have seen your single power fin video, but your new double fin is amazing! Mr Doi, your AD-Scull changed my life and I'm very grateful you shared it on UA-cam. It is surely one of the best steering systems for a Shunting proa! My new proa is too big for your tandem power fin, yet I'm very happy you shared it with me ❤️ Thank you. I enjoyed the video you sent me and I will keep using your AD-Scull forever. My new proa has a 3.5 HP outboard, but I almost don't use it, because I have a 4.5 meter AD-Scull.... It's perfect to leave the dock, raise the sail and keep going. For me you changed history, please don't stop. Sharing information is a great power that only a few people have these days, most sold their souls to the devil and will share information only if someone pays them... You are different and it's my pleasure to know you. Take care my friend. Rael
Felicidades, es un buen ejemplo. 202 sentadillas son unos QQGIRLS.Uno muchas y un buen ejercicio. Se deja ver que hay muy buenos resultados 😍👍 Saludos desde la Cd.. de world 🌹😉💖 los mortalesm abian apreciado tan hermosa mujer.k
Dropping by to help the algorithm, Rael... Good stuff! Always learning with Balkan Shipyard... I like your boat building philosophy... Keep shunting, my friend 🤙
The Force is Strong my friend, keep Shunting.....
Thanks for an interesting video! What about having two sculls, one on each end? When they can be so easily raised and locked with the smart solution with the rope and the cleat and added to that the 15 degree angle that lifts the blade up an extra bit… In that case you always have a reserve scull and can also at any moment quickly and easily scull in both directions.
I’m also looking forward to hear more about how you can build your proas without epoxy.
Wish you all the best for Balkan Shipyard!
In big waves the bows crash right through... It frightens me to have an oar raised near the bow. Another problem is dead weight on the bow, it too worries me. If epoxy goes, plywood goes with it... Pure wood is the answer, I hope that day will come, a bigger boat with wood planking.... Keep Shunting man, BSY
Hope alls well, Rael. Always find your videos interesting and useful! Hoping you’re making progress on your new proa, and frequently thinking of you. Dan S. Michigan & Texas USA
Thanks 4 the Energy Dan, filling the kitty framing a house for 13 hours a day... Time seems to be short and getting shorter.... Even a day on the boat is out of the question! Soon may the Force B by our side, then the build goes on. Keep Shunting bro, Balkan Shipyards.
Thanks bro!! Im Gonna try tô make a plywood proa boat!! I made the ama now i tem tô do the vaca !! You is an inspiration!!!🇧🇷
Good Luck with your build! Keep Shunting bro, Balkan Shipyards
An interesting video as always; many thanks.
Could you add weight to the bottom of the blade of the AD Scull so that it just about sinks and stays in a more or less vertical position? Then you wouldn't need a support. I might be missing something obvious of course.
Can you move backwards with an AD Scull?
How will you seal your hatches?
Nice to see the build coming along.
Thanx man, The scull lifts as result of sailing fast, water pushes it up, only the prop will work I believe. Mr Doi can scull backwards, how he does it is beyond me! Hatches will have a wooden frame glued to deck around them, so the hatch goes between the frame and coaming, then a small hole towards the akas will let water out... No rubber needed, simple and reliable. Thanks for being with us! Balkan Shipyards....
You could thread the oar hold down line through a piece of plastic pipe.
Brilliant! Gonna try that tomorrow... Wow Paul! Thanks man, hows your new build??? Keep Shunting, hey!
@@BalkanShipyards Small steps every day. Its warming up so epoxy will cure in one day. Today was working on the ama crossbeam risers.
@@skyl4rk Winter is over!!! Good Luck....
Hi Rael, Your videos and your "never-give-up" attitude inspires me, thanks for that. I thought of a solution for your AD-scul issue. How about putting the "eye", where your AD-scul connects to the plank , on a sliding rail and putting a hinge on the fulcrum? When you need to move the AD-scul to the other side of the plank, "unlock" the hinge, hinge it up (from ---- to V to I), slide it along the rail, turn it 180 degrees while you walk, lower it back in the water and secure the hinge again? Hope you understand what I mean, if not, let me know and I try to make a mock-up to show you. Hope it helps you! Regard, Johan
Thanks Johan! That's exactly why I started this channel, so I can share what I think, but others too can do the same therefor we can all grow together... Good stuff man, never thought about this type of a solution... You got me thinking... I think I can imagine what you mean, yet I feel it needs to be looked into further, since dragging the oar along, could be more difficult than carrying/dragging it, since you're not as restricted. The track will add safety though.... interesting.... If you have the time to share your idea with us, it will be great!
I hope to assemble the boat in my new workshop soon, the January next year, the AD-Scull will be on the agenda, good timing! I will see what we can do. Thanx again.
Keep Shunting bro, Balkan Shipyards
@@BalkanShipyards If you also add a line from the top of the fulcrum to your mast-support....and connect your continues line to the track....you can hinge up the blade and the other end of your AD-scul, lash them to the vertical line (with a rubber band or whatever) so that the whole AD-scul assembly will slide to the opposite end when you shunt your mast
@@JohanQuist I'm not sure, at times it takes a good pull to get the sail moving, adding friction and weight may become overload.... Good idea though... I got it, yet it will complicate the shunt...
Keep thinking, it's all good Johan, good ideas can come anytime from anywhere!!!
All d best! Balkan Shipyards
At the start of the video I was asking myself how you could possibly do sheet to tiller steering with an oar... the strut is genius! Also, I think you've invented a new proa rudder. I havn't seen this one before.
Thanx Dominic, the AD-Scull was invented by Atsushi Doi, he shares his stuff here on youtube check him out... I hope it works, and hope to take Make O'Break out for a spin and try it out... Though there's lots to do at the moment, so hopefully in a month or two.
@@BalkanShipyards yes I had seen the AD-scull before I knew about your videos - but have a much better understanding of how it works now from you. I made a yuloh for my monohull with some success. I'm gonna make a ad-scull for my wharram at some point. A long oar to push the stern through the tack will be very handy I think
@@dominictarrsailing I use the sculling oar to tack a shunter... Meaning if I get caught backwinded, I can scull myself through the eye of the wind back to Pacific. Your idea of getting a wharram through, by means of sculling oar, is on the money!!! keep shunting....
@@BalkanShipyards yeah funny thing is this wharram is some times harder to tack than it would be to shunt! The hulls are actually symmetrical except for the skeg... so a little bit tempted...
@@dominictarrsailing An ad-scull will solve that... I suppose backing the jib is a must! I sailed a few times on a Tiki 38, tacked every time I will say. It's tempting, but if you built it from scratch, and made it as a shunter to begin with... Otherwise, use your energy to focus on going sailing as a tacker.....
When do you use polyureathane vs when do you use epoxy? PU is also very handy when cruising because you just squeeze it out of a tube instead of mixing it and managing all this sticky stuff, not just the glue but also the tools you apply it with etc
I trust epoxy more, so I may glue with PU then add fillets, the way I make hatches, I will glue sheer clamps to the hull with PU, but then I epoxy the deck on and glass it over, so that sheer clap is there forever... I glue battens under my plywood decking planks with PU, since weight is above pushing them together... I trust epoxy more, bottom line. Keep Shunting Brah
@@BalkanShipyards got it! thanks!
The only ones who don't run aground are those that never leave the marina.
You made the AD skull, can't you make a second one? then as you shunt you pull the skull up on deck and run a bungie over it so it stays on deck, then once you've shunted un bungie the other one and slide it down into the water.
Now for you sheet to tiller problem, the thing with the wood is I worry it'll get in the way when you want to use the skull normally, how about a line attached near the stern/bow that you run over to the top of the skull handle and cleat, the tension from the bow/stern line will hold the skull up and the lanyard will hold the skull down. this could be acheived simply with a slot in the end of the skull handle and some knots in the line for the different heights you want the handle to sit at, put the bow/stern line in the slot in the handle and then tension the lanyard and cleat off. to shunt, un-cleat the lanyard a bit, remove the bow/stern line and pull the skull up on deck, then reverse for the other skull after the shunt..
First let me explain. The wooden prop is mounted only before connecting sheet to tiller steering. Meaning, the boat's on course and will be on this course for a long time. Under any other conditions, the wood prop is not mounted. having 2 sculls is smart... Though, heavy and deck space consuming... It will take some thought before that could happen, breaking a toe walking into the raised scull on deck, in a big sea, could mess up my day. It must come on Deck, if it could go under all good, but that's impossible. Anyway food for thought, I will surely start with 1, if I see another will help, a second will get made...
I understand what you mean by having 2 lanyards, yet I doubt it will be as good as the prop. Since the wood is clamped to the sculls handle (the short handle, pointing down) , the oar cant rotate. using 2 ropes will not be as secure and fixed as with the wooden prop...
Running aground? you put it well Dave! 2nd scull?? time will tell....
Keep Shunting hey, Balkan Shipyards
If there is another pivot point at the lower clamp, seems that it would help turn the oars angle more.. Dunno? Many options. Almost too many. Your Idea looks sound. Self steering seems right. ZPLAA
No need, it has lots of play in the ring, it can go further down, no problem. That's the Problem, when there are too many solutions to a problem, usually none are good.... Let's hope we've narrowed the list down... Good luck with your mono Bro!!! waiting 4 vids
Yeah, Rael. Very interesting concept. I happened to see one of that chap's videos just the other day. I think one of the guys in the Sydney Raid forum suggested it. I think that the video I watched was maybe 8-9 years old, but I could be wrong.
When Youstarted talking aobut the skull, it was easy to see the pros, but wow what if you lost the skull during a shunt? I know you know.
I watched a whole series of videos and blogs from Tim Anderson the US academic/engineer from the last 90s/early 2000s. One voyage he went out with his steering paddle and realised he hadn't tied it in. Write off a steering device, but luckily he had a smaller spare. Boats need emergency rudders or spares to get you by..
Would you envisage a clip on security device such as we used to secure ourselves on yachts when off shore at night or in heavy weather? You know, slip pin out of bushings, clip onto a line going to the new stern from the old one, arrive at new stern with skull, insert into bushing, remove from line..or something like that. Anyway, just thinking out loud. Brainstorming perhaps, mate.
Good to hear from you Col. Losing it overboard will be bad news, of course that would only happen in a huge sea where recovering it will probably be life threatening... In calm conditions I will jump over and get it, it's the middle of a shunt, the boat is hove to and sailing nowhere. I do plan on securing it somewhere somehow, but in fair conditions I will remove that line. It's not very easy to drop since it's big, though loosing it in a gale means tying myself to the boat and swim off to get it, no thanks.
I also want a smaller spare, even if it's a standard oar, that I will use against the leeside... Spare stuff is a must!
I rough weather ofcourse I will secure myself to the ship, I run a line from bow to bow and click on a carabiner from my safety harness, a self steering boat is not waiting for anybody....
Keep Shunting man....
@@BalkanShipyards Super smart idea. And, once again my dear old departed Dad used to say 'any fool can do a dance in light weather. It's when the heavy weather comes in that separates the sailors from the rest.. or words to that effect'.
I bet you are super anxious to get it finished with and to start using it. Just wondering, and of course this is none of my business. But when you are afloat had you considered selling plans for the boat to help fund your time away from shore? I know that way back you said you were just gong to give away your plans in your videos as you have done with others. Anyway, just wondering as you would certainly move some - I mean just pdfs that might be on some automated platform, like Etsy or similar. Or even Duckworks.
@@colrodrick8784 Yes, I hope to sell plans, but I truly have none... Meaning, I just built this boat, no drawings, no computer design, nothing. So, I know there are various programs that you could design hulls with and they will print the exact pieces... When I have more time, Maybe even living aboard... I want to design the exact hull with one of these computer programs and have perfect templates...
We See.... Keep Shunting Col....
Considering the scull blade floats, if the handle is fixed to prevent the blade from floating, then would the blade not tend to pull itself sideways (one way or the other) to try and float? Also, the blade, handle and shaft are each 1/3 of the length. Good, so the next question is what is the blade area as a percent of sail area or is that a valid measure in this case? Next after that is that it seems to me the length of the shaft (portion from pivot to top of blade) has to be related to the height the deck is above the water. I am guessing this is found or determined by the angle of the oar noticing that the handle is angled again as well to provide still straight enough to lift the oar out of the water, handle height for comfort, handle height for most efficient sculling, etc.
The handle has a small vertical handle under it. The Prop will get connected to the vertical handle, that way the scull can't turn. That I'm not worried about. The blade is about 1.2 % of SA, so probably 1 % is in the water. Each AD-Scull is designed for the boat it will be used on. On Crystal Clear I had a 4 meter scull that was very close in proportions to this one, so I assume the next one will probably be roughly the same... The reason the handle bends up is, so the blade flips over automatically at the beginning of each stroke. The bend at the fulcrum is a must! designing the scull takes some time messing around on the boat till you find the exact geometry... But no big deal
Keep Shunting, Balkan Shipyards
Because even algos like shunting.....
Good One!!! keep Shunting Brah!
Mr.Dobkins,
It has been a long time since I watched your videos.
I feel very happy to see that you appreciate and make good use of AD-scull so much.
Recently I have also developed "Tandem Power Fin".
The Power Fins is almost the same principle as the AD-scull. The two Power Fins, one in front and one behind, are a little more difficult to maneuver, but they reduce yawing and give my vessel a higher speed.
ua-cam.com/video/h1tnBUsfyAA/v-deo.html
I have seen your single power fin video, but your new double fin is amazing!
Mr Doi, your AD-Scull changed my life and I'm very grateful you shared it on UA-cam. It is surely one of the best steering systems for a Shunting proa!
My new proa is too big for your tandem power fin, yet I'm very happy you shared it with me ❤️ Thank you.
I enjoyed the video you sent me and I will keep using your AD-Scull forever. My new proa has a 3.5 HP outboard, but I almost don't use it, because I have a 4.5 meter AD-Scull.... It's perfect to leave the dock, raise the sail and keep going.
For me you changed history, please don't stop.
Sharing information is a great power that only a few people have these days, most sold their souls to the devil and will share information only if someone pays them...
You are different and it's my pleasure to know you.
Take care my friend.
Rael
Felicidades, es un buen ejemplo. 202 sentadillas son unos QQGIRLS.Uno muchas y un buen ejercicio. Se deja ver que hay muy buenos resultados 😍👍 Saludos desde la Cd.. de world 🌹😉💖 los mortalesm abian apreciado tan hermosa mujer.k