Also want to add Gary (for your viewers) that the 'second fill' as you call it needs to not just have the car running, but the fluid needs to be between 40-50°C while filling for the second time. The volume of fluid will change with temperature. The car also needs to be perfectly level. I've done two new pressure regulators on the 5HP24 transmissions (740i) and it took about 20 minutes of idling to get the tranny temp to 40 degrees C (104°F). If you have a good BMW scanner like Foxwell/Schwaben, you can monitor the transmission fluid temperature right off the transmission module! And of course the temp keeps going back down as you add cold fluid! It's a fun process...but worth it to do it right. Thank you so much for your videos Gary!
I personally do the second fill cold, run through the gears, top off if need be, and let the vehicle idle until I hit 40c, with the plug out. Basically starting with slightly overfilled, and allowing the excess to dribble out as the volume increases with the temp. Maybe I'm just anal, but I've never thought it's a good idea to run one up to temp on the initial fill... and maybe that's what you meant and I'm just reading it wrong ;-)
The code present for my ZF 6HP19 transmission was 507D. I am familiar with oil level check and oil replacement procedure [[ with engine off and car leveled, remove fill plug, drain and refill until oil starts coming from filler port; re-install fill plug; start engine and cycle thru gears allowing temp to be reached (30-40 deg C); remove fill plug and continue filling until oil again starts coming from filler port ]]. Both oil and filter were replaced with genuine OEM ZF items. Remember I stated with car rear lifted, lever in "Neutral" position, the rear wheels rotate but they do not have adequate torque to move the car when lowered. By the way, the MV2 solenoid was replaced. I suspect transmission has to be removed for further checks?
Excellent videos Gary, I particularly appreciate the efforts taken to make sure the camera captures the best shots and the detailed descriptions of whats being done. I have a 2006 Jaguar STR that started with a rough change up to 3rd and now slips when you apply power in the higher gears. Thanks to watching I will be checking for codes and pulling out the transmission to diagnose what I am sure is a mechanical issues.
Hi Gary I don't usually comment on youtube vids but just wanted to thank you for your videos in particular this one. I think I may have damaged my oil pump during trans install so this video is very helpful as I'll be removing and installing a pump from another ZF i have spare.
make sure the diameter of the rear stator bushing is the same and the front of the stator where the splines are measures the same. What kind of car do you have?
Thanks for the advice i'll definitely measure them to see if they're compatible. The 2 6hp26's are both from a Ford Falcon g6e turbo here in Australia so i'm pretty confident they'll be the same.
Hi Gary, I ended up leaving my spare transmission unopened and installed that with no drama's, it's working great. I unbolted the oil pump on my broken unit as per your instructions here and found the damaged ring gear, it sits on my desk now as a reminder of my stupidity :) Mine was in 1 piece but with missing alignment tabs unlike yours in this video. Thanks for the video once again, Chris.
Hi Gary thanks for your videos very helpful. I have a 6hp26 from discovery 3 that I am repairing but can't get B clutch drum out. It's worn a groove into housing. Tried slide hammer but nothing. I watched your video on the tear down but I never saw any snap ring holding the B Clutch in place. Is this something you experienced.
My 2015 falcon , barra 6 has the ZF6HP26 auto, i had to bypass the heat exchanger (as they leak and damage the box) I fitted an air cooled unit infront. The filler is on the left side at the back
Can you reprogram a meckatron unit for another vehicle or is it a one time flash that marries it to the original vehicle? Reason I ask is because I would love to sell that good meck unit in the junkyard trans hehe. Thanks for all the help
Yes the man at Eriksons is awesome he is going to fix the pump and rebuild the converter. His prices are great! Do you recommend any sonnax fixes for this unit?
Hello Gary, Any idea what the issue may be and what I can purchase from you for the following- Land Rover LR3 that initially began slipping and now does not engage in any gear despite the shifter moving fine and the Dash digital gear indicator shows the proper corresponding selected gear. Thank you
Hello Gary, thank you for your videos they have served me well. But I have a question maybe you would help me. I redid the automatic box of my Landrover Discovery 3 box 6HP26X. I changed the discs as well as all the joints and bush. I replaced the torque converter and the complete mechatronic module I ordered directly from ZF he took my old mechtronic to program the new with. I went all the way up and I went out with the car to try everything worked well I did 5 km with the car then the box began to skate and almost more forward I knew how to go back to the workshop and afterwards I do not even know how to move forward if she moves a little bit. The oil level and good and I think the pump works well because when I pull the engine cap stop it flows and once the engine runs it no longer flows. The oil of the box began to heat I did not exceed 100 ° for fear of burning the disc. Thank you if you know how to help me because I do not know if I must dismount again or if it happens in the mechantronic. I had a fault code P0730 slip too high between the input and output when I rolled from the skating. Thank you very much for your help and sorry for English I translate.
@@GaryFerraro At the beginning the reverse worked well but on the end it works like walking forward. she skates a lot. the engine is normally running at slower speed. Thank you
Gary Ferraro the car but slips a lot. I have the impression that there is no longer sufficient oil pressure while it has run for 5km. the oil heats a lot that means that the gliding discs I think. thanks for your help
I tried again today with cold oil but the car almost does not move. She slips a lot forward and backward. With my diagnostic device I see the turbine turn when the vehicle is in the car park. I put a video to see the problem on the video I go from D to N and R. Thank you ua-cam.com/video/61iY9vAqWc0/v-deo.html
So the customer decided to do a junkyard unit. He brought it to my house and I pulled the pan and it was super clean. Do I need to put the original mekatronic unit in the junkyard unit? Also I need to replace the trans cooler. Which type do you recommend? I will be putting only zf fluid in it and I have a verus so I can reset the adaptation. Thanks
I love your videos im always watching it..... quick question for you. I have a 09 x5 with the 4.8i and I believe it has the zf6hp28x transmission shift fine up and down thru gears no problem but when im coming to a stop it kind of feels like the transmission brakes o maybe shift down. What do you think it will be the problem. The transmission was never service and it has 145.000 km. Do you think a service will fix this problem. Thanks for your help.
In my history of building automatics, pump gears don't just break. Do you know if this is a pump gear material issue from the factory? Mileage and number of heat Cycles? Bell housing, pump bushing, converter hub issues? Are there aftermarket gears that are an improvement over the OEM gears that you know of? Always appreciate the education. Thanks again sir.
I have the same unit in a 2006 jag 3.0 with 152k on it. The vehicle is a no go. The only code pulled was a range sensor. (it had a dead battery so it probably lost the codes). I broke the unit down and the Torque converter was blued/overheated, The pan had super fine metal in it (indicating a failed TC) The pump gear was not broken, however the aluminum was smeared where the divide is between suction and pressure (the most critical part probably starved on fluid). The E clutch was SMOKED. (which is the one attached to the input shaft i believe)? The rest of the clutches looked normal for the age what are your thoughts on this? Thanks so much for the detailed videos! happy holidays!
The E clutch smoke probably because of either worn Rear stator bushing or solenoid problem, converter maybe overheated from it failing, sometimes the lining will flake causing the clutches inside the converter to slip
@@Alex-ti3uf Have you search the internet for a good used one? There is a ZF supplier in CT if you like i can get you the number, they have an 800 number
Hey there, I got a 2007 Range Rover Supercharged (6hp26 I believe) with 190k miles and a no move condition. No weird noises from the trans at all. Took a sample of the fluid and it seemed old but not metallic or burned smelling. Codes are P0731, P0735, P0736. I think a pump failure is unlikely being that there's no noise. Could the bridge adapter cause this? Any other suggestions? I don't want to tear into it if it's likely toast but I'm hopeful it's fixable. Thank you so much!
Pretty nice video! I do have a 6HP26 transmission on my Jaguar S Type 2005 and it stay's in first gear only... Do you think the problem should be the pump for this problem?
This is not common for this transmission, have you had the car scanned for codes? Make sure the transmission gets scanned, TCM is inside the transmission on these units
@@GaryFerraro Thank you for your very fast response, good question, i am waiting for a scan tool i ordered to find my trouble codes... I use to fix my cars but i don't know that much on ZF transmission... As soon as i get my tool i hope i will know a bit more about the problem in there. Thanks again! Oil is ok!
@@GaryFerraro HI again, I Finaly scanned for codes and i had P0701... P0701 is like a general trouble code for a lot of things... I finaly was in limp home mode and that is why the transmission remains in first gear... And the problem was the rear left wheel speed sensor ( ABS SENSOR )... Now, i know that the ABS module and the transmission communicate together and with other module to... So I replace the ABS sensor and the transmission shift like a new one now! Thank you again!
@@jazzbassmc8043 Great Thanks for the update, had a Mercedes do that to me once. It must give an erratic speed reading that doesn't match what the speed sensors should be so it sets a code. With the Mercedes, i went into the ABS Module and saw one of the wheel sensors was telling the car it was doing 160MPH but i wan't even moving
If the pump is worn and line pressure is low it could burn the unit out, this pump gear broke suddenly and the car just stopped. what kind of transmission in your car the 6hp26? yes i do all of them
Gary Ferraro I'm just curious to learn but also because I would like to get an older BMW and I haven't found anyone that admits to being able to work on the transmissions for them.
Hello Gary I have a question just need some insight before I go to a mechanic and they tell me something I don't need. I have a 2006 Bentley Continental Flying Spur with 58000 miles. Car has the Zf6hp26a. Having movement issues with car.When car is shifted into reverse or drive it won't move on it's own unless you press the gas then car moves and shifts gears fine but also has a bump from 1st to 2nd gear and a flare from 3rd to 4th gear.Car has no codes and fluid and filter was good before it happened just started doing it on and off any feedback will help thanks.
Hi Gary. First and foremost, great job! Keep up the great work! Secondly, my issue is this: When I select "Drive" or "Reverse", the car does NOT move. But when I select "Neutral" vehicle attempts to moves forward. With the rear of the car lifted, the wheels rotate continuously when "Neutral" is selected (but not enough to move the car when lowered). With the rear of the car lifted, the wheels do NOT rotate when "Drive" or "Reverse" is selected. Also, I notice the rev doesn't pass 2500rpm. Is my transmission busted? It's a BMW with 6HP19.
Are there any codes present for the trans? Have you checked the fluid level of the trans. No move could be a filter, pump or stuck open regulator valve. When you check the trans fluid see if it seems overfull. Are you familiar with checking fluid level?
The code present was 507D. Yes, I am familiar with oil level check and oil replacement procedure [[ with engine off and car leveled, remove fill plug and fill until oil starts coming from filler port, re-install fill plug; start engine and cycle thru gears allowing temp to be reached (30-40 deg C); remove fill plug and continue filling until oil again starts coming from filler port ]] . Both oil and filter were replaced with genuine OEM ZF items. Remember I stated while in "Neutral" the rear wheels rotate, but they do not have adequate torque to move the car. By the way, the MV2 solenoid was replaced. I suspect transmission has to be removed for further checks?
500 lbft of torque to the wheels, common to use this transmission stock in a 335i and single turbo, the tcm is hacked on these so you can increase line pressure
Keep the zf vids coming mate there awesome I have a issue with mine it flares on 3rd to 4th and you can't put any power down in 4th 5th or 6th or it will slip and up shift and won't shift again until you change back to DRIVE and this is my third zf box i had it all changed except the mecatronics I know its worn bushes but one of the boxes was a built box with extra clutch packs and a hardened input shaft and it still wasn't good should I just get a new box and get it tuned by my tuner for the power my motor puts out 450rwhp 700nm (Hp26) in a xr6 turbo
Gary Ferraro no not yet the last box that went in was a low km box so I used the valve body from that and just used my mecatronics well that's what I asked of the guy at the shop that did it sort of makes me think he just used my old stuff and just put it in the new box
@@GaryFerraro just bout it 4 weeks ago... No check engine light... I don't have a Transmission code reader.. 2010 hyundai genesis, 100k miles... Intermittent ruff shifts & jerks or jolts at times... The sensation that the torque converter slips or slow to engage at times.. I wanted to do a flush & fill but everybody's against the flush... they say do a drain & fill & I plan on installing a inline filter... I dont have the money for a rebuilt transmission so I want to clean & rebuild my valve body first by watching youtube videos.. your thoughts?
@@thnkbg I do not like inline filters. What i would do is have the car scanned to see if any codes are present, if there are no codes, you could try resetting shift adapts before you do anything
@@GaryFerraro resetting shift adapts? this is like my 2nd day at UA-cam Transmission school..lol.... may I ask whats wrong with inline filters? Pros- removes smaller microns of particulates that the normal filter may miss... Cons- slows down vital pressure?
@@thnkbg These transmission can adapt as you drive, for example if the transmissions sees a "slip" it can adapt so the transmission will not slip(add pressure or apply clutch earlier) Sometimes these transmissions get "stuck" and the adaptation freezes. So what would have to be done is, scan the car for codes, if codes are present clear them(transmissions will not adapt if codes are present or the check engine light is on) Then with the scan tool go into transmission to reset shift adapts, this will bring it back to a Basic setting, then you have to drive the car so the car can learn and fine tune the shifts. Do this when the car is at operating temp. I choose not to install inline filters because they are forgotten about and they should be changed i feel once a year, they do clog up and cause shifting problems but if this is your car i would change the filter every year.
I have a 2008 550i and it has a damaged trans oil pump and housing. These are the numbers on the pump and housing. 1068 410 063 - pump 1068 410 050 - housing You mentioned to be care due to there being 2 different stators. How do I know which is correct? I found a pump with housing together from a range rover and the housing number matches but the pump number is 1068 410 068. Will this work for me?
Best thing to do is call erikssons to find out if they are the same, they will know by the numbers that you posted, on the stator, check the inside diameter where the rear stator bushing rides and in the front of the stator, the splines that go into the converter, make sure the outside diameter is the same
Zf6hp28 in an 09 bmw 335d. Bought the car with a somewhat lazy 1-2 shift and first gear almost feels like its slipping. Few weeks later had a 4F88 code saying ratio monitoring gearshift 2-3 and went into limp mode. Replaced bridge seal/4 seals/new zf solenoids/fluid and filter. Havent had code come back but still feels like its slipping possibly..do you have any suggestions?
@@GaryFerrarocorrect, I did not open the valve body. Going into reverse doesnt seem to have any delay, hot or cold. Thanks for taking the time to reply Gary.
It really seems to like ZF just makes bad transmissions. I just had the 5HP24 in my X5 rebuilt at only 114k miles. There's no excuse for such an early failure in a vehicle that was never abused .The shop that did mine said ZFs aren't any good since the EU has forced them to use low-lead alloys in the bushings. As a result they wear more quickly than they should. BMWs claim that the fluid lasts forever probably doesn't help.
Gary Ferraro but I also want to add that everyone obeys the lifetime fill sticker! Ignore that as that refers to lifetime of the warranty, not the lifetime of the transmission! Change the fluid and filter at 60k, and every 40k afterward, and the 5HP24 will last a loooong time.
Changing the fluid won't solve the pressure regulator issue that blows out the 'A' drum, delamination of the 'D' drum piston (not sure if I got the name right on that part), or in my case would've been unlikely to have prevented the failure of a Torrington bearing assembly. There are parts within modern 5 and 6 speed transmissions that do not appear to be as robust compared to older 3 and 4 speed designs. If I had more time and money available I'd love to swap out the M62TU/5HP24 combination in my X5 for a Megasquirt injected GM LS/TH700R4.
Excellent videos Gary Ferraro! Learning with you, thanks! :) My car is a Jaguar s-type 2.5L with a 6HP26. I have access to a scan tool that shows live data, and the pressure regulator of the drive 4 is 0.58A ON and 0,05A OFF the others mark 0,85A ON and 0,05A OFF! Bad solenoids or Separator Plate? Thank You!
Hey Gary, awesome channel! Subbed :) Keep up the good work, you could maybe get a better camera. I have a couple of questions for ya, if you have the time: My 2007 e90 335d equipped with the GA6HP26Z has been shifting slow and jerky when cold + holding second a little longer when going uphill and than slamming into third + when it's warmed up a tiny slip in first and second can be felt when accelerating gently. So far there are no codes but I know that the u-joints on the drive shaft have gone. When shifting from P > D > N > R there is a 1sec delay followed by a gentle jolt and a metallic click (this was diagnosed as a failed driveshaft). I'll be replacing that shortly. Do you reckon the bad driveshaft is causing the transmission to act up? Would a an atf flush/change help? I don't have any service history for the tranny and the car has more than 160.000 miles on the clock.
Nope, I'll do that asap...I thought there would be a sensor that reports low fluid levels? So basically I need to remove the fill plug (while engine is off and cold) and if oil is seeping out than it's ok?
Hi again Gary, just got back from the mechanics shop: fluid level is good and the fluid itself looks quite clear and has a dark red/light brownish color. No codes again. My mechanic did an adaptation reset and recommended an oil flush. I drove the car around town and I can say that the shifting has improved at low speeds (this is where it was worst), but when the car is coming to a stop I can now feel a jolt..I guess that's the shift into first. :(
Hey Gary, Awesome videos, I have been watching a bunch of them and learning alot. I have an 05 Bmw 645ci I am working on. It has some transmission issues of course, and I have already ordered a solenoid kit, after watching this video, I am alittle hesitant it may not be the solenoids anymore, and actually might need a rebuild. Here is the exact code pulled using the Carly app: "Translation Monitoring circuit 3-4" Code 004F89 When driving it, it shifts hard and sometimes gets stuck in 3 gear if you press the gas to hard.
Actually now that you mention it, it seems to shift fine for the first 5 minutes or so, and then will start acting up. I appreciate the speedy response btw! The car is not being driven on a daily basis, it is actually parked at the moment, so no further damage will be done till it is fixed. The car has about 132k miles on it too. Do you have a video referencing that rear stator bushing?
@@artilarygoboom Yes, i have 6HP26 bushing installation, 2 part video. certainly sounds like that bushing is worn, look at the E clutch too, they tend to wear out
How are you boss my name is fadi I have a workshop i have range rover 2008 transmission 6hp26 the car have sleeping 3_4 i open transmission the E Drum sleeping i change the complete E Drum then i test the car first the car is okay then make sleeping same 3-4 advice me what i do maybe solonid valve have problem. Please give me your email correct
Hard to tell from the video, but the fluid looks awful, not like you'd expect after 60,000 miles! I've done a full service twice on my ZF6HP26 over 180,000km, and both times the fluid has come out looking very good. Mine uses a steel pan and separate strainer element, so maybe that's the difference? Typical BMW specifying plastic wherever they can.
@@GaryFerraro Yes, Aussie built Ford Falcon G6E Turbo all had the metal pan from factory - no drain plug in it though which is always a bit of a pain when it comes to draining. I think the naturally aspirated models may have had the plastic pan (I know the Ford Territory with the same basic drivetrain did as I've changed one of them too) but the more expensive models were all metal as far as I know.
Yep I will replace them all...gave the customer the 2700 dollar quote and he wants to gamble with a 700 dollar junkyard unit.we will see how that goes lol. I will transfer the original mektronic to the junkyard unit because if I’m not mistaken they are programmed for that particular vehicle.
There is a ZF distributor in CT, great people, The name is Eriksson's industries, the phone is 1-800-388-4418. They will ship to you, they have everything ZF
Also want to add Gary (for your viewers) that the 'second fill' as you call it needs to not just have the car running, but the fluid needs to be between 40-50°C while filling for the second time. The volume of fluid will change with temperature. The car also needs to be perfectly level. I've done two new pressure regulators on the 5HP24 transmissions (740i) and it took about 20 minutes of idling to get the tranny temp to 40 degrees C (104°F). If you have a good BMW scanner like Foxwell/Schwaben, you can monitor the transmission fluid temperature right off the transmission module! And of course the temp keeps going back down as you add cold fluid! It's a fun process...but worth it to do it right. Thank you so much for your videos Gary!
Thank you for that
I personally do the second fill cold, run through the gears, top off if need be, and let the vehicle idle until I hit 40c, with the plug out. Basically starting with slightly overfilled, and allowing the excess to dribble out as the volume increases with the temp. Maybe I'm just anal, but I've never thought it's a good idea to run one up to temp on the initial fill... and maybe that's what you meant and I'm just reading it wrong ;-)
Nice videos Gary Ferraro. The best transmission workshop on UA-cam.
Thanks for watching
Yep totally agree and he helped with a 722.6 that failed of mine. True gentleman.
The code present for my ZF 6HP19 transmission was 507D. I am familiar with oil level check and oil replacement procedure [[ with engine off and car leveled, remove fill plug, drain and refill until oil starts coming from filler port; re-install fill plug; start engine and cycle thru gears allowing temp to be reached (30-40 deg C); remove fill plug and continue filling until oil again starts coming from filler port ]]. Both oil and filter were replaced with genuine OEM ZF items. Remember I stated with car rear lifted, lever in "Neutral" position, the rear wheels rotate but they do not have adequate torque to move the car when lowered. By the way, the MV2 solenoid was replaced. I suspect transmission has to be removed for further checks?
Excellent videos Gary, I particularly appreciate the efforts taken to make sure the camera captures the best shots and the detailed descriptions of whats being done. I have a 2006 Jaguar STR that started with a rough change up to 3rd and now slips when you apply power in the higher gears. Thanks to watching I will be checking for codes and pulling out the transmission to diagnose what I am sure is a mechanical issues.
If there are codes present, let me know what they are
Gary, two codes P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio and P0729 Gear 6 Incorrect Ratio.
I was thinking of putting the tcc bypass valve in it since the converter was blued up pretty good
Love these vids sir.keep it up for us gearheads!
thanks for watching
Hi Gary I don't usually comment on youtube vids but just wanted to thank you for your videos in particular this one. I think I may have damaged my oil pump during trans install so this video is very helpful as I'll be removing and installing a pump from another ZF i have spare.
make sure the diameter of the rear stator bushing is the same and the front of the stator where the splines are measures the same. What kind of car do you have?
Thanks for the advice i'll definitely measure them to see if they're compatible. The 2 6hp26's are both from a Ford Falcon g6e turbo here in Australia so i'm pretty confident they'll be the same.
Ok, sounds good. Greetings from New York
Hi Gary, I ended up leaving my spare transmission unopened and installed that with no drama's, it's working great. I unbolted the oil pump on my broken unit as per your instructions here and found the damaged ring gear, it sits on my desk now as a reminder of my stupidity :) Mine was in 1 piece but with missing alignment tabs unlike yours in this video. Thanks for the video once again, Chris.
Thanks for the update, glad your back on the road
How often do you find broken pump gears,in any unit
& is there any common denominator as to why ?
Thanks for all the help! Who do you send your torque converters off to for rebuild?
I use transtar but erikssons can do it, they may have it in stock, After overhaul, make sure shift adapts are reset
Hi Gary thanks for your videos very helpful. I have a 6hp26 from discovery 3 that I am repairing but can't get B clutch drum out. It's worn a groove into housing. Tried slide hammer but nothing. I watched your video on the tear down but I never saw any snap ring holding the B Clutch in place. Is this something you experienced.
I have not seen that before, the B drum should just pull right out
My 2015 falcon , barra 6 has the ZF6HP26 auto, i had to bypass the heat exchanger (as they leak and damage the box) I fitted an air cooled unit infront. The filler is on the left side at the back
did water get into the trans?
no))))
Thats good, you certainly wouldn't want that
Can you reprogram a meckatron unit for another vehicle or is it a one time flash that marries it to the original vehicle? Reason I ask is because I would love to sell that good meck unit in the junkyard trans hehe. Thanks for all the help
really goood videos, no thinking about filming in 1080p ?
I try to upload in that, but my computer says there is not enough room try a lower resolution. Have to shop for a new one.
Yes the man at Eriksons is awesome he is going to fix the pump and rebuild the converter. His prices are great! Do you recommend any sonnax fixes for this unit?
i do not use any for this trans, your doing solenoids correct?
Hi Gary, is there a known reason why these pump gears would break? Do ZF supply uprated parts?
Thanks
Michael
I really just see this happen in the cars with the larger engines, plus i think this guy gets on the car too, only had 60K on the clock
Is there a reverse sensor on this thing?
Thanks for the feedback. What parts supplier do you use for original zf parts? Also who do you trust to overhaul the torque converter. Thanks again
where are you located?
Hello Gary,
Any idea what the issue may be and what I can purchase from you for the following-
Land Rover LR3 that initially began slipping and now does not engage in any gear despite the shifter moving fine and the Dash digital gear indicator shows the proper corresponding selected gear.
Thank you
What year is the car? is it a 6HP26 transmission?
Does front pump gear on 6hp21 has any specific place to meet two gear
Bcz I make it apart and didn’t mark it
There is just dot on the gear
Thanks 🙏
was the dot facing you when you took it apart?
Hello Gary, thank you for your videos they have served me well. But I have a question maybe you would help me. I redid the automatic box of my Landrover Discovery 3 box 6HP26X. I changed the discs as well as all the joints and bush. I replaced the torque converter and the complete mechatronic module I ordered directly from ZF he took my old mechtronic to program the new with. I went all the way up and I went out with the car to try everything worked well I did 5 km with the car then the box began to skate and almost more forward I knew how to go back to the workshop and afterwards I do not even know how to move forward if she moves a little bit. The oil level and good and I think the pump works well because when I pull the engine cap stop it flows and once the engine runs it no longer flows. The oil of the box began to heat I did not exceed 100 ° for fear of burning the disc. Thank you if you know how to help me because I do not know if I must dismount again or if it happens in the mechantronic. I had a fault code P0730 slip too high between the input and output when I rolled from the skating.
Thank you very much for your help and sorry for English I translate.
Gallet Mathis how is reverse? When you check the oil you have the engine running correct?
@@GaryFerraro At the beginning the reverse worked well but on the end it works like walking forward. she skates a lot. the engine is normally running at slower speed. Thank you
@@galletmathis5728 so the car moves but slips or the car does not move?
Gary Ferraro the car but slips a lot. I have the impression that there is no longer sufficient oil pressure while it has run for 5km. the oil heats a lot that means that the gliding discs I think. thanks for your help
I tried again today with cold oil but the car almost does not move. She slips a lot forward and backward. With my diagnostic device I see the turbine turn when the vehicle is in the car park. I put a video to see the problem on the video I go from D to N and R. Thank you ua-cam.com/video/61iY9vAqWc0/v-deo.html
So the customer decided to do a junkyard unit. He brought it to my house and I pulled the pan and it was super clean. Do I need to put the original mekatronic unit in the junkyard unit? Also I need to replace the trans cooler. Which type do you recommend? I will be putting only zf fluid in it and I have a verus so I can reset the adaptation. Thanks
Yes, you have to put his mechatronic in the used unit. If the trans cooler is leaking i only go OE on the high end cars
I love your videos im always watching it..... quick question for you. I have a 09 x5 with the 4.8i and I believe it has the zf6hp28x transmission shift fine up and down thru gears no problem but when im coming to a stop it kind of feels like the transmission brakes o maybe shift down. What do you think it will be the problem. The transmission was never service and it has 145.000 km. Do you think a service will fix this problem. Thanks for your help.
Would you say it has a 2-1 downshift bump or bang?
Gary Ferraro definitely not a bang but a 2- 1 downshift bump
Where are you located
Fernando Bullón I'm in New York on Longisland.
In my history of building automatics, pump gears don't just break. Do you know if this is a pump gear material issue from the factory? Mileage and number of heat Cycles? Bell housing, pump bushing, converter hub issues? Are there aftermarket gears that are an improvement over the OEM gears that you know of?
Always appreciate the education. Thanks again sir.
pump gears will break if you have a broken flywheel
or if the bell is missing dowels or not in true center with the crank
I have the same unit in a 2006 jag 3.0 with 152k on it. The vehicle is a no go. The only code pulled was a range sensor. (it had a dead battery so it probably lost the codes). I broke the unit down and the Torque converter was blued/overheated, The pan had super fine metal in it (indicating a failed TC) The pump gear was not broken, however the aluminum was smeared where the divide is between suction and pressure (the most critical part probably starved on fluid). The E clutch was SMOKED. (which is the one attached to the input shaft i believe)? The rest of the clutches looked normal for the age what are your thoughts on this? Thanks so much for the detailed videos! happy holidays!
The E clutch smoke probably because of either worn Rear stator bushing or solenoid problem, converter maybe overheated from it failing, sometimes the lining will flake causing the clutches inside the converter to slip
Where can I buy pump for 6hp19??
I am just wondering where I could buy the pump Assembly. Thank you.
where are you located
Hawaii
@@Alex-ti3uf Have you search the internet for a good used one? There is a ZF supplier in CT if you like i can get you the number, they have an 800 number
Hey there, I got a 2007 Range Rover Supercharged (6hp26 I believe) with 190k miles and a no move condition. No weird noises from the trans at all. Took a sample of the fluid and it seemed old but not metallic or burned smelling. Codes are P0731, P0735, P0736. I think a pump failure is unlikely being that there's no noise. Could the bridge adapter cause this? Any other suggestions? I don't want to tear into it if it's likely toast but I'm hopeful it's fixable. Thank you so much!
Have you checked the fluid level?
Pretty nice video! I do have a 6HP26 transmission on my Jaguar S Type 2005 and it stay's in first gear only... Do you think the problem should be the pump for this problem?
This is not common for this transmission, have you had the car scanned for codes? Make sure the transmission gets scanned, TCM is inside the transmission on these units
@@GaryFerraro Thank you for your very fast response, good question, i am waiting for a scan tool i ordered to find my trouble codes... I use to fix my cars but i don't know that much on ZF transmission... As soon as i get my tool i hope i will know a bit more about the problem in there. Thanks again!
Oil is ok!
@@jazzbassmc8043 First step is to see what codes are present, this may give some direction
@@GaryFerraro HI again, I Finaly scanned for codes and i had P0701... P0701 is like a general trouble code for a lot of things... I finaly was in limp home mode and that is why the transmission remains in first gear... And the problem was the rear left wheel speed sensor ( ABS SENSOR )... Now, i know that the ABS module and the transmission communicate together and with other module to... So I replace the ABS sensor and the transmission shift like a new one now!
Thank you again!
@@jazzbassmc8043 Great Thanks for the update, had a Mercedes do that to me once. It must give an erratic speed reading that doesn't match what the speed sensors should be so it sets a code. With the Mercedes, i went into the ABS Module and saw one of the wheel sensors was telling the car it was doing 160MPH but i wan't even moving
1. Do you work on all Beemer transmissions?
2. If the pump goes does it usually burn internals, just lose motion in the transmission, or both?
If the pump is worn and line pressure is low it could burn the unit out, this pump gear broke suddenly and the car just stopped. what kind of transmission in your car the 6hp26? yes i do all of them
Gary Ferraro I'm just curious to learn but also because I would like to get an older BMW and I haven't found anyone that admits to being able to work on the transmissions for them.
What year and model are you looking for? where are you located?
Gary Ferraro I would like to get a mid 90s up to early 2000s 3 or 5 series. I live in Pa.
ok, so you would be dealing with either a 4L30E trans or a 5L40E trans, 5L40E a little pricey to work on, they are more than the 4 speed model
Hello Gary I have a question just need some insight before I go to a mechanic and they tell me something I don't need. I have a 2006 Bentley Continental Flying Spur with 58000 miles. Car has the Zf6hp26a. Having movement issues with car.When car is shifted into reverse or drive it won't move on it's own unless you press the gas then car moves and shifts gears fine but also has a bump from 1st to 2nd gear and a flare from 3rd to 4th gear.Car has no codes and fluid and filter was good before it happened just started doing it on and off any feedback will help thanks.
Does this happen when the car is cold and it's ok hot?
Both cold start and after warming up plus cold start idle is not normal as it was when the transmission operated correctly
Hi Gary. First and foremost, great job! Keep up the great work!
Secondly, my issue is this: When I select "Drive" or "Reverse", the car does NOT move. But when I select "Neutral" vehicle attempts to moves forward. With the rear of the car lifted, the wheels rotate continuously when "Neutral" is selected (but not enough to move the car when lowered). With the rear of the car lifted, the wheels do NOT rotate when "Drive" or "Reverse" is selected. Also, I notice the rev doesn't pass 2500rpm. Is my transmission busted? It's a BMW with 6HP19.
Are there any codes present for the trans? Have you checked the fluid level of the trans. No move could be a filter, pump or stuck open regulator valve. When you check the trans fluid see if it seems overfull. Are you familiar with checking fluid level?
The code present was 507D. Yes, I am familiar with oil level check and oil replacement procedure [[ with engine off and car leveled, remove fill plug and fill until oil starts coming from filler port, re-install fill plug; start engine and cycle thru gears allowing temp to be reached (30-40 deg C); remove fill plug and continue filling until oil again starts coming from filler port ]] . Both oil and filter were replaced with genuine OEM ZF items. Remember I stated while in "Neutral" the rear wheels rotate, but they do not have adequate torque to move the car. By the way, the MV2 solenoid was replaced. I suspect transmission has to be removed for further checks?
Interesting, this trans does good until around 500wtq in a 335i
what is 500wtq ?
500 lbft of torque to the wheels, common to use this transmission stock in a 335i and single turbo, the tcm is hacked on these so you can increase line pressure
ok, the ones i work on are just stock
Keep the zf vids coming mate there awesome I have a issue with mine it flares on 3rd to 4th and you can't put any power down in 4th 5th or 6th or it will slip and up shift and won't shift again until you change back to DRIVE and this is my third zf box i had it all changed except the mecatronics I know its worn bushes but one of the boxes was a built box with extra clutch packs and a hardened input shaft and it still wasn't good should I just get a new box and get it tuned by my tuner for the power my motor puts out 450rwhp 700nm (Hp26) in a xr6 turbo
Have you put new solenoids in?
Gary Ferraro no not yet the last box that went in was a low km box so I used the valve body from that and just used my mecatronics well that's what I asked of the guy at the shop that did it sort of makes me think he just used my old stuff and just put it in the new box
My Christmas wish is to meet you in real life and shake ur hand. Just amaizing education over yt! Keep going
Where are you located?
@@GaryFerraro Deutschland
ok, Greetings from New York
How do I know if the problem is with the valve body vs the internals of the transmission?
What is the problem and are there any codes?
@@GaryFerraro just bout it 4 weeks ago... No check engine light... I don't have a Transmission code reader.. 2010 hyundai genesis, 100k miles... Intermittent ruff shifts & jerks or jolts at times... The sensation that the torque converter slips or slow to engage at times..
I wanted to do a flush & fill but everybody's against the flush... they say do a drain & fill & I plan on installing a inline filter...
I dont have the money for a rebuilt transmission so I want to clean & rebuild my valve body first by watching youtube videos.. your thoughts?
@@thnkbg I do not like inline filters. What i would do is have the car scanned to see if any codes are present, if there are no codes, you could try resetting shift adapts before you do anything
@@GaryFerraro resetting shift adapts? this is like my 2nd day at UA-cam Transmission school..lol.... may I ask whats wrong with inline filters? Pros- removes smaller microns of particulates that the normal filter may miss... Cons- slows down vital pressure?
@@thnkbg These transmission can adapt as you drive, for example if the transmissions sees a "slip" it can adapt so the transmission will not slip(add pressure or apply clutch earlier) Sometimes these transmissions get "stuck" and the adaptation freezes. So what would have to be done is, scan the car for codes, if codes are present clear them(transmissions will not adapt if codes are present or the check engine light is on) Then with the scan tool go into transmission to reset shift adapts, this will bring it back to a Basic setting, then you have to drive the car so the car can learn and fine tune the shifts. Do this when the car is at operating temp. I choose not to install inline filters because they are forgotten about and they should be changed i feel once a year, they do clog up and cause shifting problems but if this is your car i would change the filter every year.
I have a 2008 550i and it has a damaged trans oil pump and housing. These are the numbers on the pump and housing.
1068 410 063 - pump
1068 410 050 - housing
You mentioned to be care due to there being 2 different stators. How do I know which is correct? I found a pump with housing together from a range rover and the housing number matches but the pump number is 1068 410 068. Will this work for me?
Best thing to do is call erikssons to find out if they are the same, they will know by the numbers that you posted, on the stator, check the inside diameter where the rear stator bushing rides and in the front of the stator, the splines that go into the converter, make sure the outside diameter is the same
Does the replacement oil pump need any kind of priming?
@@purplecty740 No but i squirt some trans fluid on the gears so on start up the gears are not dry
I am assuming it is a good idea to replace the rear stator bushing while having access now as well?
@@purplecty740 For sure, #1 problem with this trans
Zf6hp28 in an 09 bmw 335d. Bought the car with a somewhat lazy 1-2 shift and first gear almost feels like its slipping. Few weeks later had a 4F88 code saying ratio monitoring gearshift 2-3 and went into limp mode. Replaced bridge seal/4 seals/new zf solenoids/fluid and filter. Havent had code come back but still feels like its slipping possibly..do you have any suggestions?
Did you reset shift adapts? if you do not, it will work the same way
@@GaryFerraro yes. I forgot to say that I did reset them. I drove about 400 miles before testing the 1-2 shift at WOT again.
@@zwwz4537 ok, you did not open the valvebody correct? How is reverse hot? any delay?
@@GaryFerrarocorrect, I did not open the valve body. Going into reverse doesnt seem to have any delay, hot or cold. Thanks for taking the time to reply Gary.
is there drums in this trans that are known to have hairline cracks?
Not in this trans, not that i know of
It really seems to like ZF just makes bad transmissions. I just had the 5HP24 in my X5 rebuilt at only 114k miles. There's no excuse for such an early failure in a vehicle that was never abused .The shop that did mine said ZFs aren't any good since the EU has forced them to use low-lead alloys in the bushings. As a result they wear more quickly than they should. BMWs claim that the fluid lasts forever probably doesn't help.
Yes, i agree, i've done these transmissions with much less mileage on them from bushing wear.
Gary Ferraro but I also want to add that everyone obeys the lifetime fill sticker! Ignore that as that refers to lifetime of the warranty, not the lifetime of the transmission! Change the fluid and filter at 60k, and every 40k afterward, and the 5HP24 will last a loooong time.
Changing the fluid won't solve the pressure regulator issue that blows out the 'A' drum, delamination of the 'D' drum piston (not sure if I got the name right on that part), or in my case would've been unlikely to have prevented the failure of a Torrington bearing assembly. There are parts within modern 5 and 6 speed transmissions that do not appear to be as robust compared to older 3 and 4 speed designs. If I had more time and money available I'd love to swap out the M62TU/5HP24 combination in my X5 for a Megasquirt injected GM LS/TH700R4.
Excellent videos Gary Ferraro!
Learning with you, thanks! :)
My car is a Jaguar s-type 2.5L with a 6HP26.
I have access to a scan tool that shows live data, and the pressure regulator of the drive 4 is 0.58A ON and 0,05A OFF
the others mark 0,85A ON and 0,05A OFF!
Bad solenoids or Separator Plate?
Thank You!
João Freitas Do you have any codes? Is there any wrong when you drive the car?
No codes! but at low rotations, sometimes the rotations are inconstant!
Hey Gary, awesome channel! Subbed :) Keep up the good work, you could maybe get a better camera.
I have a couple of questions for ya, if you have the time:
My 2007 e90 335d equipped with the GA6HP26Z has been shifting slow and jerky when cold + holding second a little longer when going uphill and than slamming into third + when it's warmed up a tiny slip in first and second can be felt when accelerating gently.
So far there are no codes but I know that the u-joints on the drive shaft have gone. When shifting from P > D > N > R there is a 1sec delay followed by a gentle jolt and a metallic click (this was diagnosed as a failed driveshaft). I'll be replacing that shortly.
Do you reckon the bad driveshaft is causing the transmission to act up?
Would a an atf flush/change help? I don't have any service history for the tranny and the car has more than 160.000 miles on the clock.
Have you checked the fluid level?
Nope, I'll do that asap...I thought there would be a sensor that reports low fluid levels?
So basically I need to remove the fill plug (while engine is off and cold) and if oil is seeping out than it's ok?
Actually the engine running , warm or hot and make sure fluid comes out, the mechatronic sleeve likes to leak on these units
Thanks a lot! I'll report back as soon I get it checked.
Hi again Gary, just got back from the mechanics shop: fluid level is good and the fluid itself looks quite clear and has a dark red/light brownish color. No codes again. My mechanic did an adaptation reset and recommended an oil flush.
I drove the car around town and I can say that the shifting has improved at low speeds (this is where it was worst), but when the car is coming to a stop I can now feel a jolt..I guess that's the shift into first. :(
super interesting thank you
Thanks for watching
ZF6hp26 fault p2700.p1707 put in D jurk once and no movement
Do you know the definitions of those codes?
@@GaryFerraro not exactly
@@irfanrana3455 ok let me research
what is year make and model of your car
@@GaryFerraro xf V6 2009
Hey Gary, Awesome videos, I have been watching a bunch of them and learning alot. I have an 05 Bmw 645ci I am working on. It has some transmission issues of course, and I have already ordered a solenoid kit, after watching this video, I am alittle hesitant it may not be the solenoids anymore, and actually might need a rebuild.
Here is the exact code pulled using the Carly app: "Translation Monitoring circuit 3-4" Code 004F89
When driving it, it shifts hard and sometimes gets stuck in 3 gear if you press the gas to hard.
A common issue with this problem is a worn rear stator bushing, does the car seem to work ok cold?
Actually now that you mention it, it seems to shift fine for the first 5 minutes or so, and then will start acting up. I appreciate the speedy response btw! The car is not being driven on a daily basis, it is actually parked at the moment, so no further damage will be done till it is fixed. The car has about 132k miles on it too. Do you have a video referencing that rear stator bushing?
@@artilarygoboom Yes, i have 6HP26 bushing installation, 2 part video. certainly sounds like that bushing is worn, look at the E clutch too, they tend to wear out
Thanks for the advice, I will update you as well once I get a chance to dig into it.
dear can you make your videos in high quality please?)))
Sorry about that i think it's my computer that i upload the videos on
@HK L I have upgraded with a new PC since
How are you boss my name is fadi
I have a workshop i have range rover 2008 transmission 6hp26 the car have sleeping 3_4 i open transmission the E Drum sleeping i change the complete E Drum then i test the car first the car is okay then make sleeping same 3-4 advice me what i do maybe solonid valve have problem.
Please give me your email correct
e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com Where are you located? any transmission trouble codes?
Hard to tell from the video, but the fluid looks awful, not like you'd expect after 60,000 miles! I've done a full service twice on my ZF6HP26 over 180,000km, and both times the fluid has come out looking very good. Mine uses a steel pan and separate strainer element, so maybe that's the difference? Typical BMW specifying plastic wherever they can.
Wow, 180,000 that's great, yours came with the metal pan?
@@GaryFerraro Yes, Aussie built Ford Falcon G6E Turbo all had the metal pan from factory - no drain plug in it though which is always a bit of a pain when it comes to draining. I think the naturally aspirated models may have had the plastic pan (I know the Ford Territory with the same basic drivetrain did as I've changed one of them too) but the more expensive models were all metal as far as I know.
@@Beer_Dad1975 Thanks for the info
Yep I will replace them all...gave the customer the 2700 dollar quote and he wants to gamble with a 700 dollar junkyard unit.we will see how that goes lol. I will transfer the original mektronic to the junkyard unit because if I’m not mistaken they are programmed for that particular vehicle.
Jerrod Williams Yes, at least the section where the connector connects to. If using a different valve body just transfer that piece and all is good
Savannah ga
There is a ZF distributor in CT, great people, The name is Eriksson's industries, the phone is 1-800-388-4418. They will ship to you, they have everything ZF