These were the last of the made in UK line of B&W speakers before sending the follow-up lines to China for assembly. vThat's why I'm hanging on to my 601 S3's .. 😁
Another great video. I had the 602 S3 years back. One of my favorites! Love the bullet cone and the woofer assembly looks awesome. Back when they made it in England.
I had the 601S3 and 602S3, and the 602 didn't have the suckout in the midrange around the x-over point (the so-called BBC dip) that the 601 had, but they both like to be played loud before they open up, and they were just too big and loud for my tiny room. Now, I have a very similar sounding pair of Wharfedale 9.1s, which sound fuller at low volume levels. But, I still miss the B&Ws, and my Monitor Audio Bronzes.
@@DougMen1 I agree with you about how they open up at louder volumes. Unfortunately I sold them because of that very reason. At low to moderate volumes they lacked life. Regardless, I loved them for what they were. I was thinking of picking up a pair of old 604 S3 but haven’t seen a good example used.
@@DougMen1 I have this speakers. The only way to solve the problem of lack of hi mids frequency was to add a domo titanium 2" midirange. And change the crossovers for another 3 way. It's another speaker now!!
Very cool! I love these b & w speakers with cavill cones,because it gives a refinement in the voices, the design is beautiful, has a crossover of good quality.
Thanks for the video! Just had to replace my tweeter on this speaker and your video helped me out. One thing I would note is that you have to twist the tweeter unit slightly to the right to dislodge it. There's also a foam ring around both the tweeter and the woofer that you'll need to put back in place.
These are great sounding speakers, even on their lower range, compared to other manufacturers you can see the inside construction is solid, many people complaint about been bright sounding, but there is nothing the treble control can't correct if you need to.
that is a good quality speaker. nice cast woofer basket, a fair bit of xmax and a good quality crossover + tweeter. also good quality foam and a nice sturdy box.
I bought mordaunt short aviano 2's before the new owner shut them down,and they look to be of a higher quality - inside and out. I am guessing that they had to shut them dont in order to sell higher price speakers from their other brands.
Great video, appreciated! I'm having some vibration noises inside one of my DM601 S3 speakers, especially on mid volume and bassy frequencies ...what could it be, please? Thanks a lot!
what is difference between home Speakers and Car speakers. which is best for home use? Car speakers looks more good and powerful than home ones, that's why I ask this question
Car speakers are usually designed to work in a car door which is mostly a leaky box. Hence, stiffer suspensions. You would not get a good bass response if you put them in a box. Some car speakers are designed about going "loud" and handling harsher conditions, whereas most home speakers are focusing on high fidelity playback. Deeper bass in a box, nicer sound (hopefully). There are some hifi car speakers as well, generally I'd prefer using "home speakers".
Anybody? The rubber on one of my 601 S3 drivers has cracked. Is there anyway to repair that kind of damage? if not, what can I do? Replace the drivers? Are original drivers available to buy somewhere? What other drivers have similar sound to these?
Scusate ho acquistato queste casse, i componenti sono identici solo che sono di colore esterno neri. Proprio non capisco una cosa i woofer misurati gli ohms con il multimetro misurano 4 e 3.8 ohms (anche se riporta la stessa scritta 8 ohm come nel video); infatti poi rimisurato il tutto ai connettori esterni le casse non mi danno 8 ohms ( o dai 7 agli 8 ohms, ) ma solamente una 4 e una 3.8 ohms...potreste aiutarmi a capire perchè, ma sopratutto se li posso utilizzare o corro il rischio di rompere amplificatore o subwoofer attivo? molte grazie
Its the back-of-the-pole piece "Nautilus" acoustic vent. A B&W high line signature. So there is some minor fluid cooling as you speculated- if you would define Air as a fluid. Remember all the sound pressure coming out of the front of the loudspeaker is being also trapped inside the speaker! Think of the small resonant cavity behind the metal dome. - Sandy
It is to absorb some of the rear wave from the tweeter as well as loading it to reduce colourations. Most modern tweeters use rear absorptive chambers, but are usually a "cup/cap" on the back rather than a tube.
Hi Mister . Just subscribed your channel . Any ideia if this tweeter " ZZ 12939 " would be adaptable / compatible to the very first B&W 600 Séries , DM 603 more precisely ?... Thank you Sir in advance for your feedback .
Can anyone advise how to properly position/dress the Sonofil white material inside? I’m getting terrible bass response out of mine after a change of parts
It's a 2nd order x-over, using air core inductors for both the woofer and tweeter, and higher quality caps than standard NPO electrolytics shows better quality than most in their price range.
They have improved greatly as of late, but they were not too good for many decades - regardless of high end shops pushing them onto unsuspecting yuppies . But Ignore my commentary. In mid-fi you pick you poison and live with it - for a couple months at best :) Sandy
Yes but only when the said bar is their 800 series. Below that are pure audiophile snake oil scam. Much like Devore speakers. Intricate cabinetry but zero dynamics.
Nice build at price, but I don't like seeing the long VC former. The Aero dimpling of the port exit is a nice engineering nod though likely inefficacious. The X-over componentry look to be of good quality - though in a basic implementation. Sorry to say I have never been drawn in towards most B&W I've heard over the years, but I haven't heard or owned this Model. Thank You for the disassembly. You should do some time honored and winning Classics for a reference, like the Dahlquist 3, Celestion 6, KEF 104.2, ADS L-710 and the KLH model 6. Cheers! -Sandy
Probably much harder and expensive to pick those up :) Why don't you like a long VC former? It's probably there to provide more linearity given this is a high excursion bass driver that also does a bit of midrange.
@@RennieAsh pipe resonance and vowel colouration and transmission losses. I see no excursion benefit of the long former in front of the spyder. This driver does most of the midrange. Sandy
Sandy Shoremann It may add a little bit of stability as the two suspension points are further apart. As for resonance inside the voice coil former, I don’t think I’ve seen any manufacturer add damping inside there. I’ve only seen pole piece extensions. What may be interesting is to add your own little damping material inside there. I’ve modified many drivers, though usually tweeters without ferrofluid with extra wool in the chambers of a motor system
@@RennieAsh I'm sure the dustcap provide some midrange energy, I wouldn't fool with it, especially near the VC.. I have done symmetrical damping of fabric dome tweeters using a bridge over the centerline and damping the center 5mm of the dome with a cotton like polymer fiber. Does two things acts as a phase plug, and quells the resonance. Now, Aramid fiber cones can sound better than a cheap polypropylene, though I wouldn't spec them larger than 130mm. Good Listening! - Sandy
@@sandyshoremann7524 I did your mod on a pair of cheap soft dome tweeters for fun, I can't really say how much effect it had but it definitely looked cool. Sonus Faber does something like this I think
@@djijspeakerguy4628 I had a pair of "Made in England" speakers that are also plastic. And there are also metal cast frame drivers that are "Made in China".
why is it good speaker company's use press board for their spk's, use a high grade plywood or peaced together hard wood not press board that will come apart if your spk's get wet,not only that,it makes a speaker look cheap.
It's not meant to get wet. Most speakers will not do well getting wet. These are B&W's cheaper options hence particle board. They put more effort into the drivers and crossover. When you have good drivers and crossover plus beautiful cabinet, usually the cost goes up
#Acoustics! If a speaker cabinet is made with anything other than chip/ particle board, avoid it. Particle/ chip board is used for good reason, it deadens unwanted sound, if you use solid wood with a grain you will have that wood's resonant frequencies interfering with the sounds you want to hear. Solid wood cabinets look the business, but at certain frequencies and volumes they sound terrible
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #30 ДВА В ОДНОМ [Один человек]• Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nrXy15orKhY/mqdefault.jpg)
These were the last of the made in UK line of B&W speakers before sending the follow-up lines to China for assembly. vThat's why I'm hanging on to my 601 S3's .. 😁
I personally haven't found a quality difference between England vs China. It's only a good selling point for people that reckon it matters :)
Another great video. I had the 602 S3 years back. One of my favorites! Love the bullet cone and the woofer assembly looks awesome. Back when they made it in England.
I had the 601S3 and 602S3, and the 602 didn't have the suckout in the midrange around the x-over point (the so-called BBC dip) that the 601 had, but they both like to be played loud before they open up, and they were just too big and loud for my tiny room. Now, I have a very similar sounding pair of Wharfedale 9.1s, which sound fuller at low volume levels. But, I still miss the B&Ws, and my Monitor Audio Bronzes.
@@DougMen1 I agree with you about how they open up at louder volumes. Unfortunately I sold them because of that very reason. At low to moderate volumes they lacked life. Regardless, I loved them for what they were. I was thinking of picking up a pair of old 604 S3 but haven’t seen a good example used.
Personally I don't feel that these "made in England" models are any better than the made in China ones.
@@RennieAsh Yeah I agree. It’s more of the legacy and heritage factor.
@@DougMen1 I have this speakers. The only way to solve the problem of lack of hi mids frequency was to add a domo titanium 2" midirange. And change the crossovers for another 3 way. It's another speaker now!!
Very cool! I love these b & w speakers with cavill cones,because it gives a refinement in the voices, the design is beautiful, has a crossover of good quality.
Great speakers , I had the 601 S3 12 years . Work amazing .....
I just bought 601 S3 for a $100 bucks!! Sounds really good!!
Thanks for the video! Just had to replace my tweeter on this speaker and your video helped me out. One thing I would note is that you have to twist the tweeter unit slightly to the right to dislodge it. There's also a foam ring around both the tweeter and the woofer that you'll need to put back in place.
They are nice and easy to replace parts on aside from figuring out the tweeter twist :)
These are great sounding speakers, even on their lower range, compared to other manufacturers you can see the inside construction is solid, many people complaint about been bright sounding, but there is nothing the treble control can't correct if you need to.
There's plenty of stuff the treble control cannot correct.
Good to see commercial units that use all air cored inductors. The ferrite cored ones inevitably introduce distortion due to the materials hysteresis.
A mostly very good bookshelf that gave me long hours of listening pleasure. Currently driven by Loxjie A30 to good result in a medium size room.
Impressive XO build.
that is a good quality speaker. nice cast woofer basket, a fair bit of xmax and a good quality crossover + tweeter. also good quality foam and a nice sturdy box.
Are the 601/602 cast metal? As the 600 is a plastic basket
I get to answer my own question now as I have a 601 and it's a metal basket. The 600 is plastic. Still an open frame design though
@@RennieAsh Metal is plastic with a higher Q and likely caused cabinet talk if not decoupled.
@@sandyshoremann7524 it's "decoupled" using foam gasket, plastic baffle and foam gasket, then particle board front panel
Watching this on a set of these speakers. Very nice
I'm listening to the video using a pair, but I found it hard to watch any sort of video with the speakers themselves XD
B&W speaker drivers always appear to be very well built. Cast frames with decent size magnet.
wow a deep throw woof drive,I remember a company radio shack here in Canada that used to make those all most exactly.
I bought mordaunt short aviano 2's before the new owner shut them down,and they look to be of a higher quality - inside and out. I am guessing that they had to shut them dont in order to sell higher price speakers from their other brands.
If I'm going to just use one of the two pairs of post for speaker wire do I use the top one or the bottom pair?..thanks
bottom
Great video, appreciated!
I'm having some vibration noises inside one of my DM601 S3 speakers, especially on mid volume and bassy frequencies ...what could it be, please? Thanks a lot!
I have the 601 can you recommend a decent pair of Bi WIres for this speaker
Is $300 for a mint pair to much? Please let me know ASAP.
What is the dimensions of the box ? thanks for the nice video 👍👍👍.
what is difference between home Speakers and Car speakers. which is best for home use? Car speakers looks more good and powerful than home ones, that's why I ask this question
Car speakers are usually designed to work in a car door which is mostly a leaky box. Hence, stiffer suspensions. You would not get a good bass response if you put them in a box. Some car speakers are designed about going "loud" and handling harsher conditions, whereas most home speakers are focusing on high fidelity playback. Deeper bass in a box, nicer sound (hopefully). There are some hifi car speakers as well, generally I'd prefer using "home speakers".
Anybody? The rubber on one of my 601 S3 drivers has cracked. Is there anyway to repair that kind of damage? if not, what can I do? Replace the drivers? Are original drivers available to buy somewhere? What other drivers have similar sound to these?
which is better sounding jbl 230 or this bowers 601?
Scusate ho acquistato queste casse, i componenti sono identici solo che sono di colore esterno neri. Proprio non capisco una cosa i woofer misurati gli ohms con il multimetro misurano 4 e 3.8 ohms (anche se riporta la stessa scritta 8 ohm come nel video); infatti poi rimisurato il tutto ai connettori esterni le casse non mi danno 8 ohms ( o dai 7 agli 8 ohms, ) ma solamente una 4 e una 3.8 ohms...potreste aiutarmi a capire perchè, ma sopratutto se li posso utilizzare o corro il rischio di rompere amplificatore o subwoofer attivo? molte grazie
Nice! I presume that tube on the back of the tweeter magnet is for some kind of liquid cooling?
Its the back-of-the-pole piece "Nautilus" acoustic vent. A B&W high line signature. So there is some minor fluid cooling as you speculated- if you would define Air as a fluid. Remember all the sound pressure coming out of the front of the loudspeaker is being also trapped inside the speaker! Think of the small resonant cavity behind the metal dome. - Sandy
It is to absorb some of the rear wave from the tweeter as well as loading it to reduce colourations. Most modern tweeters use rear absorptive chambers, but are usually a "cup/cap" on the back rather than a tube.
Beautiful music, any one know what is playing in the video?
Hi Mister .
Just subscribed your channel . Any ideia if this tweeter " ZZ 12939 " would be adaptable / compatible to the very first B&W 600 Séries , DM 603 more precisely ?...
Thank you Sir in advance for your feedback .
What is the title and name of the artist of background music you used for this video? Thanks!
milli vanilli
thank you
Very nice speaker
those B&w are 10x better then jbl es and e northridge
the best!
Can anyone advise how to properly position/dress the Sonofil white material inside? I’m getting terrible bass response out of mine after a change of parts
I guess don't block the path to the bass port.
It's a 2nd order x-over, using air core inductors for both the woofer and tweeter, and higher quality caps than standard NPO electrolytics shows better quality than most in their price range.
Awesome video
Nice music
They still set the bar in 2020...
They have improved greatly as of late, but they were not too good for many decades - regardless of high end shops pushing them onto unsuspecting yuppies . But Ignore my commentary. In mid-fi you pick you poison and live with it - for a couple months at best :) Sandy
Yes but only when the said bar is their 800 series. Below that are pure audiophile snake oil scam. Much like Devore speakers. Intricate cabinetry but zero dynamics.
thanks bro, i hope you will do some bose speakers too
Nice build at price, but I don't like seeing the long VC former. The Aero dimpling of the port exit is a nice engineering nod though likely inefficacious. The X-over componentry look to be of good quality - though in a basic implementation. Sorry to say I have never been drawn in towards most B&W I've heard over the years, but I haven't heard or owned this Model. Thank You for the disassembly. You should do some time honored and winning Classics for a reference, like the Dahlquist 3, Celestion 6, KEF 104.2, ADS L-710 and the KLH model 6. Cheers! -Sandy
Probably much harder and expensive to pick those up :)
Why don't you like a long VC former? It's probably there to provide more linearity given this is a high excursion bass driver that also does a bit of midrange.
@@RennieAsh pipe resonance and vowel colouration and transmission losses. I see no excursion benefit of the long former in front of the spyder. This driver does most of the midrange. Sandy
Sandy Shoremann It may add a little bit of stability as the two suspension points are further apart.
As for resonance inside the voice coil former, I don’t think I’ve seen any manufacturer add damping inside there. I’ve only seen pole piece extensions.
What may be interesting is to add your own little damping material inside there. I’ve modified many drivers, though usually tweeters without ferrofluid with extra wool in the chambers of a motor system
@@RennieAsh I'm sure the dustcap provide some midrange energy, I wouldn't fool with it, especially near the VC.. I have done symmetrical damping of fabric dome tweeters using a bridge over the centerline and damping the center 5mm of the dome with a cotton like polymer fiber. Does two things acts as a phase plug, and quells the resonance. Now, Aramid fiber cones can sound better than a cheap polypropylene, though I wouldn't spec them larger than 130mm. Good Listening! - Sandy
@@sandyshoremann7524 I did your mod on a pair of cheap soft dome tweeters for fun, I can't really say how much effect it had but it definitely looked cool. Sonus Faber does something like this I think
Thanks
Too thin will you...?😂😂
When they still was made in England. Today only China
Not that much difference is there? Still a particle board box, drivers still have venting and cast frames etc
The new drivers are plastic.
@@djijspeakerguy4628 I had a pair of "Made in England" speakers that are also plastic.
And there are also metal cast frame drivers that are "Made in China".
Yeah, they glued a phase plug in the place of the dust cap. Pretty pathetic.
Indigo baloon what’s wrong with that? It’s actually still a dust cap, just a bullet shaped one :)
1400Hz, 2990Hz, 8ohm.
why is it good speaker company's use press board for their spk's, use a high grade plywood or peaced together hard wood not press board that will come apart if your spk's get wet,not only that,it makes a speaker look cheap.
It's not meant to get wet. Most speakers will not do well getting wet. These are B&W's cheaper options hence particle board. They put more effort into the drivers and crossover.
When you have good drivers and crossover plus beautiful cabinet, usually the cost goes up
#Acoustics! If a speaker cabinet is made with anything other than chip/ particle board, avoid it. Particle/ chip board is used for good reason, it deadens unwanted sound, if you use solid wood with a grain you will have that wood's resonant frequencies interfering with the sounds you want to hear. Solid wood cabinets look the business, but at certain frequencies and volumes they sound terrible
Why is crossover so cheap.???😮😮😮😮
За что платим такие огромные деньги???
Plastic fantastic ... not as good as the original 601.s
Inside junk very good speakers for my shoes 🤣
vc gasta uma fortuna com cabo e plug banhado a ouro, e dentro conectores simples de latao. kkkkk
gr research Danny B&W DM601 S3 upgrade mod easy to do crossover upgrade kit