#3118

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#3118 Stellar Toy Shovel & Kitchen Scoop Applied Design, Fluid Acrylics, Rain-X Finish 7.15.18
I am using a 10"x20" stretched canvas. All the paints I use are acrylic paints mixed with additives to help them flow more easily. All my colors are stored and mixed in squeeze bottles for ease of use. I add a layer of paint covering the whole canvas, half white and half black on a diagonal using a silicone spatula. I have paint leftover from previous artwork to use up in a bead tray to which I add more colors to freshen it up. I remove the contents with a small children's plastic sand shovel. I release the contents of the shovel onto the canvas, allowing the paint to flow from the flat front edge of the shovel in wide ribbons onto the canvas. I do precisely the same thing again with a small metal kitchen scoop. This creates less wide ribbons of paint. I use a bamboo skewer to manipulate and swipe through the wide ribbon of color and a small spatula to apply paint and make adjustments using the flat front and edges. When I feel the design is finished, I add ONE SINGLE spritz of Rain-X (original formula from above to the side (20" above). This instantly creates Magnificent crystalline cells and a striking effect.
My "pouring" mixture is 3/4 Floetrol with 1/4 (estimated) GAC800 from "Golden" (prevents cracking and adds shine to dry artwork.)mix into it thoroughly. Depending on the paint the amounts of color can vary. I like to begin with half pouring mixture and half color. After that is mixed VERY thoroughly I add more pouring mixture until the viscosity (thickness) is like warm hone. If I want it thinner I add more Pouring mixture. If the color is not strong enough I add more pigment. When mixing colors my amounts are always estimated and then altered to get the right consistency I like. I use plastic squeeze bottles with measurements on the side. I add a marble into the bottle to aid in the mixing process. Marbles work well but exercise caution if you end up with more than one they will shatter in the mixture eventually. It's imperative (Important) that all mixture be shaken thoroughly once before using in any session the first every time! The consistency is usually medium "body" weight, but other weights are usable with minor adjustments.
*If I am using Amsterdam Black as a cell activator, first I mix my paint with my usual with my 3/4 Floetrol-1/4Gac800mixture and another half paint (depending on getting the desired viscosity. In my recipe is usually half and a half adding more pm if desired. In my first experiment, I used 2 ounces of paint mixture and added the 10 drops of the pre-stain wood conditioner( I keep it well sealed too). I strongly suggest using this mixture in a well-ventilated room because it has a strong odor and I imagine it cannot be good to inhale.
Before each new painting session remixing the paint is necessary, if you use squeeze bottles as I do, adding a glass marble helps mix the paint when you shake your paints before each painting session.
All my acrylic paints are mixed in advance and contained and stored in squeeze bottles. If you are not using squeeze bottles, I suggest using a container that has a lid. I have often used the 4oz size plastic deli containers, and the paint keeps for a long time in them, but you still will have to stir before using the mix again because the Floetrol and other flow agents will rise to the top between uses. None of my acrylic paint has any added silicone. To create the pearlescent effects seen in most of my artworks, I use "Golden's" Iridescent pearl "Fine" added to colors. By "eye" until I am pleased with what I see.
Every day I learn new things. I will never stop experimenting, and I am happy to share what I discover with you.
To see finished wet and dry versions of all my UA-cam demonstration artworks for sale, visit my Expressionist Art Studio Gallery Fans and Collectors group on Facebook
#3113 wet, shown in this video.
intuitive art contemporary art modern art, art therapy