How to MAYBE extract broken bolts.
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2016
- There are many ways to kick a cat. These are the ways that are available to guys with a small shop. It's not magic and it doesn't work 100% of the time. Don't let anybody tell you their method works everytime. Nothing works everytime.
How you know somebody is having a bad day: • Video
The best way to remove bolts • Video
Long term projects here: / ave - Наука та технологія
I feel like when terrible people die, they're reincarnated as drill bits in your garage.
They were broke studs in both lives.
Now~~That's Funny!!!!!
Hats off to the drill bits that sacrificed themselves for our entertainment
Haha, farmer loctite, well played sir
+TacticalBBQSauce I nearly died laughing at farmer loctite. so true it hurts.
hats off to AVE for the patience to deal with that shit! Beer oclock usually starts after the first drill bit is broken and I have to go fetch the wrench I hurled in anger out into the yard.
I learned working on cars/planes/trains, When a tool drops the sound it makes can illicit many responses. Most often the sound of metal/concrete brings on mixed feelings of joy and anger, the sound of metal on metal is enough to ensure a continuous stream of 4 letter words for several minutes. The worst offender however is when it drops and there's no sound.
+Herpn Derpn there*
I've been doing this stuff, restoring old tractors and machinery for a half century now and here are some of my methods.
Get some PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst. Absolutely the best for softening any rust.
I'm surprised that you didn't mention it.
Most people are in a hurry and think that it will work right away.
It doesn't.
Patience is needed. Let it sit for a day or two. Make sure the part is always wet. Re-apply as necessary.
This is what I'll do if the broken bolt is below the surface.
If any of the bolt is above, or flush, I'll always mig weld a washer to the bolt and a nut to the washer.
Wait till everything cools and out comes the stud!
Piece of cake!
Below the surface;
Take a large prick punch and a good size hammer. Prick the center of the broken bolt. A couple of good whacks with the hammer will help break things loose.
Get some left handed drill bits. I've found that properly prepared bolts will unscrew as you're drilling, MOST of the time.
Snap-On are the best, but expensive.
I start by using a standard 1/8" right handed drill bit (don't take the chance of breaking your expensive left hand bit) and drill down 1/2" or so.
I'll now take a acetylene torch and heat the broken bolt if there is nothing flammable near by.
You're only going to heat the bolt very quickly and not the surrounding metal housing.
I'm talking like 5 seconds here.
Not getting it white hot.
If there is a chance of combustable hydraulic fluid, take a 200 watt soldering iron and heat the bolt until you see the penetrating oil start to smoke.
More patience!
Let everything cool! Take a break, have some coffee!
The stud has to shrink back.
Now I'll take a larger left hand drill and carefully start drilling.
I little warning here.
Some new drills are too sharp and will suddenly grab and break. I'll take a fine stone and remove a little of the cutting angle, making it closer to 90 degrees.
The same thing you do when drilling soft brass or copper so the drill doesn't grab.
If you do break a drill bit, try welding a washer to it and most of the time you can take a pair of pliers and back it out.
These methods work for me maybe 99% of the time.
I hardly ever use the hammer in type extractors. Mainly because they'll expand the bolt and cause it to be harder to remove.
Just thought I would share some experience.
Maybe give it a try.
Broken bolts don't have to be a pain in the ass!
Have you ever tried rust buster and let it set for awhile? Even a hour, Then some penetrating oil?
This guy. Minus the strap on drill bits :) good set of left handed cobalts will cost an arm and a dick but we'll worth it.
Aren't "Strap-On" drill bits those Chinese clones? :-)
I've had a lot of trouble with any drill bits not made in the U.S.A.
The Chinese have terrible quality control and some bits seem to miss the heat treating part of the manufacture.
Either too soft or too hard.
Buy quality, take care of your tools and they'll last a long time.
+Wayne Black Snap on stiff is good, im just not a fan of the price tag. I usually use Sutton tools bits and taps mostly Australian made. I'm also in Australia so...
Nice tips! You should post a video!
"oh man, that's tougher drilling then when the wife comes home from Tupperware and red wine tasting..."
L0L
Nice to see someone else destroy drill bits for a change.
WD40 - _"..must have high fructose corn syrup in it..."_ that cracked me up, very clever joke.
I also cracked up at this. Loudly
tobortine except that the D stands for desiccant I did too
Way to ruin a good nugget fellas..
@@tjdjultima ACTUALLY it stands for displacement. It was developed under US Government contract for Titan missile crews to displace water from connectors and fittings to prevent accidental contact between water and the hypergolic fuels/oxidizers used in the missile.
Then he finds out it’s a left hand thread
That whould be a nightmare
Literally the only reason we keep the square extractors on hand
Use a standard twist drill on left handed thread. If it grabs sides it can spin it free.
Lol
@@cryangallegos what are they made of some sort of thougher metal? I'm a noob at this stuff
13:15 - NO ! Not using a croissant wrench on a stud extractor ! Uneven lopsided force makes the extractor want to bend, only they do not bend , they snap, like you demonstrated. Use a tap handle, supplies even force to both sides of the extractor. Gets the broken stud out more often, reduces the amount of colourfull language.
I take out stuck screws and bolts all the time, as in almost daily, almost never use a tap handle with ezyouts, but also typically use Hansen bits or sometimes those grabits with a proper cobalt drill bit.
Yeah. But also more in the heat expanding and the tapidy tap....
LMAO the more you watch knowing this, the more it looks like he just did it on purpose. 😂😂 tap handle is an amazing solution, though! Wouldn't have thought of that one.
Yeah I find bread wrenches never really work well
True. Assuming you can get a t handle into the spot where the broken bolt is. I usually just drill em out. Just got to ensure you center punch it dead center lest you mangle the threads.
I am spending 15 minutes of my life watching a man attempt to get broken bolts out of things.
For the second time this month.
its a good way to spend 15 mins
The first one was on pornhub eh ?
I was one of those suckers who paid &45-$60 almost 15 years ago for those crapsman extractor pack. Still have them and don't ever remember getting them to work in anything metal.
+AvE They still weren't worth what he paid.
My dad always calls easy outs "maybe outs" lmao
I work at a Tire Shredder as the only maintenance guy and we have two Columbus McKinnon (CM for short) shredders.
They have two large rotors that turn into each other with rows of 1.8, 2.0 and 2.2" wide rectangular knives that are held to the rotor with three bolts each, 3/4" head 1/2" thread. about 360 knives per rotor. If something goes through the machine that it can't cut then it'll either break a knife or break the bolts holding the knife to the rotor. (chain reaction and normally causes hours of work.)
To avoid taking the machine apart and needing to setup our mag drill to drill out the bolts (about 3 hours of work) we use a welding rod much like the "X-Tractalloy" rods you've probably heard of.
Its tricky and the margin for error is very narrow when starting the process because before you lay down the flux with the first strike you can easily weld the broken bolt to the threads if you're not centered.
But I just peck away at it.
Strike and burn a bit then pull out.
Wait for it to cool to cherry red.
Drive back in.
Eventually it builds a weld up out of the hole, weld a nut on her, blow on it with the compressed air to speed up to cooling process.
After about a minuet we hit it with PB Blaster (not sure that it does much but we do it anyway.) and back the bolt out!
great video,
i love watching others work on my day off.
some bolts you are just not going to get out,
like steel or stainless bolts in aluminium,
like the bolts in exhaustflanges on a 2-stroke engine's cylinder.
they been fired up and cooled down so much that they pretty much bond chemically or something.
only thing to do is drill through, and cut new threads,
or drill it out and cut new threads one size bigger.
never used extracters in the shop for fear of breaking them and adding a new problem.
If it absolutely has to be saved, AvE has done a previous video showing the use of Alum to dissolve steel out of aluminum. Downfall is that it takes days...
Any problem on earth can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.
when in Doubt, C4.
-Jamie Walrus Hyneman
James Franklin "Walrus" Hyneman, that is.
Kaedenn sometimes my toaster smells like pills.
"You were only supposed to blow the bloody doors off!"
It's administering the THC to the explosives that's the problem.
I usually start drilling with the smallest bit I feel safe with drilling and not breaking. Something less than an 1/8". Don't drill all the way through with that small bit. Walk the bit around and make sure it's dead center. I can't stress enough how important getting dead center is. After you get a center hole started then go a little bigger. I rarely fool with easy outs anymore. Just drill and tap. If you don't have the right drills and taps or don't have the money to buy them . You probably shouldn't be trying this yourself. You don't turn easy outs with a crescent wrench. Use a tap handle . When using taps and easy outs, watch for torsion in the bit. You can see it twisting before it breaks. 45 years after watching someone do this and thinking " that looks easy, I can do that" It's still not easy but I rarely fail to get one fixed. I've only welded a nut on a broken bolt once or twice.
@AvE have you tried putting your magnet in a bit of plastic bag or a finger of latex glove? makes getting all the metal bits off easier
Man, that's actually great advise! Thanks
Good call. Shavings on a magnet can be like a sticky booger on your finger.
If the magent is not strong enough. The plastic bag will significantly reduce induction
Use a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid, some old granddad knowledge passed on to me
Marvel mystery oil works well also when mixed with acetone! I like it a bit better because the final solution is thinner and that makes me think it will penetrate deeper and faster. Marvels also is like a high detergent cleaner.
this works. use it on all my automotive parts.
Never tried it, but sounds like it would be great.
Who here has no idea what the hell they are watching but just think this guy is fucking hilarious?
no... this is Canadian*
he's my uncle from another blood line.
Arne Wolz I think that’s how most of us end up subscribing....
yes combining work and fun good vid though
I learned more practical factual knowledge from your videos then years of community College courses, and workshops. Cant thanks ya enough.
My pops calls WD-40 panther piss, I don't care for the stuff on account of the taste.
WD 40=waste dollars 40c at a time.
there's a shop near me that sells the cans of wd40 with fucked up paint on them or damaged caps or whatever at like half the price of normal wd
Do you prefer the taste of a different piss?
Wwhhaatt? Panther piss tastes like wd40, thanks for the info.
Wd 40. Is called weasel piss in Canada!
Howlee fuck. I've done too many and too much of this shite. Used to work in mining (fitter/engineer), and I can't imagine a much worse environment for corrosion and seizing except maybe a marine environment. But it's even worse down a pit, one can't just bust out the warm spanner. No flames or combustibles. To the extent of not even aluminium being allowed (aluminium unlike other metals causes a spark hot enough to ignite methane gas), unless specially licenced and treated, and then it was very rare, basically underground diesel loco's engine parts.
Used to be a vehicle mechanic too. Water pump bolts and exhaust studs/bolts were always the bane of a mechanic's life. Usually in a pain in the arse position too.
Being able to tackle them on the bench like this is sheer luxury.
Oh yeah. Think of that joy.
I, too, have spent many of my days in the underworld of coal.
thumbs up for proper ALUMINIUM :P
¿so a steel spark is not hot enough to ignite methane? huh who knew, the alu part sounds about right since alu IS combustible/explosive(they don't make bombs out of iron powder after all :D )
Alunimnothermic reactions are no fucking joke. Take thermite for instance. That shit will melt through practically anything you can imagine (except cojones of steel; those can only be touched by a qualified wife)
My grandfather worked Coal and Gold in SA and worked oil and gas in quite a few third world shitholes, nothing paid the bills quite like the natives and the job trying to kill you. Offshore oil and gas installations and the like, nice marine environment with all it's corrosive goodness with a liberal application of health and safety for obvious reasons. Would you like a +40 or -40c work environment to go with that :|
We don't usually try (down t' pit) - send the whole thing to the surface, if it's that important, or simply replace it.
Slow the drill speed down and use more pressure, your drill bits will last a lot longer.
being in aviation, I've drilled more hardware than most people will see in their lives. Slow and lots of pressure will do the trick every time.
+billybobjoe198 he literally said he's an expert, and you said you're not, so maybe listen to him.
That doesn't work when you're using a 1/8" drill bit.
+Kevin Liang majority of what I drill is with a #21, #30 (1/8th), or a #40. it works perfectly fine.
+billybobjoe198 drilling stone =/= drilling metal
I would love to hear what a materials engineer has to say about when you should use pressure and a low speed versus a high speed with low pressure.
I'm just a visual artist who has an interest in this sort of thing, and has done a fair amount of construction with different materials, but to me it seems intuitive that different media would respond in different ways.
Man, I am so happy you popped up on my radar with this old vid today. Was bummed, watched, laughed...pondered now right as rain
Thanks Dude.
I was entertained by the video and comments. Since I don't own a welder, I would block off the center hole and heat the bolts slightly to get the penetrant to sink in more. It wouldn't be enough heat to cause a problem. Regarding tough bolts, that are turning a little and stopping...do not force and break the extracting tool. Instead, reverse and tighten to break loose the crud. Back and forth with patience and finesse, makes the job go faster than dealing with broken tools in the hole. When I first learned to cut threads in high school shop class, I learned to turn forward to cut maybe half a turn, then reverse a little to break the chips and repeat. Same principle when removing a broken bolt.
Fun to watch as always. I thought the point of those tapered threaded bits was that you pre drilled a hole, then run them in at low speed and let them tap into the bolt until they bottom out and get a firm grip thus allowing you to just unscrew the bolt that way.
That's the idea. Works best if you just don't use power tools.
Yeah I was kind of cringing when he went full speed into that shit lol...
same, i was like, thats never going to grip in a million sundays at that speed and will also damage the bit. the job still looked a nightmare regardless
Would would watch a video of some thing done proper like.
gacekky1
I tap them in the drilled hole with a hammer, then i get a wrench and start turning them. That way i have full control to the torque all the time. It's very easy to strip threads with power tools if you have a steel bolt in aluminium casting - like a cylinder head of an engine.
The absolute best method to remove bolts is to tig weld a nut to the end. If its broken off flush ill build up the bolt shank with weld until i have something to slip a nut over. Weld it, quench it and back it out with an impact. So far Its worked every time for me
As a millwright and a farmer, I got a really good laugh out of that last comment! It's always nice to watch other people pulling busted bolts from a work piece. I've done my fair share, and have botched the shit out of more than I would like to admit! Great video man
Thank you for entertaining and educating me. I wish I had been taught by someone like you - although I realise I'm only seeing a small snippet of you and the reality could be far different. I am bound to come across all sorts of sheered and rusted in fittings if I ever get around to fixing some cars I have; this is valuable knowledge. I've never been confident with any of the skills I have learned, but you help to offset that and provide a good source of information that helps to fill the gap in my head. Thank you for another great production.
Left hand drills work much better when turning them counter clockwise ; )
I was gonna say. The grabits are terrible but they occasionally work if you spin them the correct way
But what about if you only own a right hand drill?
NIGHTOWL 1963 hold it with your left hand, duh.
I like to tighten the bolt slightly before loosening it if it is stuck, helps break it loose I think. Old timer taught me that long ago.
really
correct , heat 1st then WD then loosen
My absolute favorite UA-cam channel
Kroil is far and away the best penetrating oil I've ever used, and I've used them all. PB Blaster is also excellent, I use it for really crusty, filthy stuff like leaf spring shackle bolts and such, it seems to penetrate dirt a little better. A good dousing in Kroil followed by a few sharp whacks with a whammer, followed by a few hours/overnight, and then judicious application of appropriate tools, I find, virtually never fails me. I'm a hobbyist hot-rod/Jeep/dual-sport motorcycle weirdo and professional IBEW journeyman commercial/industrial electrician, for insight as to what kind of garbage I have to work on regularly. Acetone and transmission fluid (2 parts ATF to 1 part acetone) is probably the best penetrating lubricant there is, but doesn't come in handy aerosol cans that can be carried in your glovebox or tool pouch with precision straw snouts to snorkel into little places.
hi there I have a simple cheap tip from a simple cheap mechanic. firstly drill into the centre of the bolt about 10-13mm deep and just over half the overall the bolt diameter then using a torx bit or a hexagonal bit use it to broach the hole you drilled using a good big hammer then it should just unscrew;-)
Ps as you probably know most of the removal tools you can buy will wind into the broken bolt and can expand the bolt into the internal threads.
but a torx bit gripping a 13mm deep hole reduces this problem. ( sorry my brain is graduated in metric only! I am from northern Ireland that's my excuse and I am sticking to it Ave.)
That's exactly the technique I used after shearing the head off of one the bolts I was torquing down when reinstalling my transmission pan. Drilling into the bolt was a bit difficult as it was recessed into the hole. But I did manage. I hammered a torx bit into it and it spun right off. I did use a pair of vice grips to start it turning, but once broken loose, I was able to spin it out with my fingers.
After pulling the torx bit out of the bolt, the bit took no damage at all.
I'm gonna set up a bolt extraction business, cos I love to swear
Yup, you’re right, I don’t think we make tools anymore in Engerland.
I try various methods for extracting studs.
One is, I’ll centre punch the stud, in the centre, then slightly angle the centre punch, going 12 o clock, then 9, 6, 3, repeat, tapping away with a small hammer, steady away with patience.
If not, then lathe drills, they’re reverse spiral, drilling with these can unscrew the stud.
If that doesn’t work, try place a nut over the stud, then weld through the nut centre, don’t weld the stud to the housing or whatever the workpiece is for obvious reasons.
Don’t worry too much over welding something that is a pressure vessel.
If it goes bang, you won’t know....
I hate UA-cam. I haven't gotten a reminder or notification for AvE in over a year.
Some of these idioms are completely brilliant.
heat bolt only (oxy acetyl), strike (and i mean really throw your purse at it)straight down at the bolt and then let it sit for a few minutes. hit with penettating oil and let it cool. left hand twist drill, more penetrant then extract. the key is the strike to jostle all the corrosion in the threads.
Watching your frustrations and bit snapping have made my last 3 days of hitting my head on the wall with a project feel a little better. A treat as always, Thanks!
Ave bother, I have much to teach you on this subject! First off, those damn old school type easy outs (brand name) are the devil and "when" they break, you're really in for a fun time, so I say don't even think about those damn things.
The Craftsman type with drill can work but only on bolts that aren't corroded or seized in but at least they don't typically break off in the hole.
My method is simply start off with a center punch, punch center of bolt, start with 1/8" drill bit of the standard rotation type and work your way up to just under the depths of the thread in diameter. What's remaining will be paper thin metal/bolt and most likely will come off while using your last step of the drill bit size.
NOW FOR THE BEST ADVICE! Many moons ago, I broke one of those damn easy out type extractors in my racing bikes crankshaft, which of course is not an easy fix. Knowing that tool bit steel is harder than hell also means it's brittle, which is key to how I figured this out.
I use a carpenter's spring nail set/center punch like "B" in this photo www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/Woodworking/Drilling/24k0101s1.jpg Most of the time, theres some of the easy out sticking up to catch an edge on, put the punch on any outside edge you can catch, put "saftey squints on" and pull the sping loaded weight side back and giver hell! Squint extra hard because this shit is dangerous to your vision but has worked 90% of the time for me.
The aftermath may leave some junk behind that you can pick and punch out but after than you can proceed with my prefered method and save your hole :-)
Chris, too many comments to read, but with the cheap extractors you tried, you are supposed to drill a pilot hole first with the opposite end of the extractor. I have a set of those and they won't drill a hardened bolt, but perhaps a pilot hole first with a proper drill?
lost hope in humanity at 13:21
i have a couple years at anAerospace welding facility, we would weld small beads on top of the broken bolt and then get a purchase on it to spin it out, you're welcome.
those back-out reverse extractors work 100% of the time on soft steel screws in wood for me
I took out many broken bolts by welding very carefully a little blob of a high quality stainless welding rod on top of the sheared bolt until it protrudes high enough to grab it with vice grip, by which time the heat would have cancelled any rust or locktight holding the broken stub. It works far better than anything sold on the market. A tip : hold the welding rod 90 degrees to the surface when welding, using a slightly higher current to assure a good weld. Why a stainless rod ? It grabs onto other steels in a clean and strong manner with no blowholes or irregularities associated with mild steel welding rods. When it is still tight weld a cap screw on there and use an allen key to extract the stub after adding some diesel to the job, an excellent penetrating fluid.
I love the commentary and the accent. I know that feeling when you break a drill bit right in the hole :-/
“Farmer Loctite” 😂😂 this is why I watch
As a diesel tech I deal with stuff like this fairly often. My suggestions are hit with a center punch, wire brush it, heat around outside of hole with torch or shrink actual bolt with liquid nitrogen. Apply sili kroil. Use double cut dome top carbide bit that leaves 1/4 -1/8 of the bolt on either side. Then use Snap-On SR40K set. Hammer in tight and use either a tap handle or a 8/4 point socket and a ratchet. Gets them out 85-90% of the time.
Ooooh the joys of being a mechanic in the salt belt, especially when you work on fleet cars that have never seen a car wash or a garage.
Drill a hole, hammerjam a torx bit in there and there you go!
Cheaper with torx bits than extractors, works almost every time
Thank you for that idea.
Farmer Loctite... That made me chuckle!
Usually do this maybe once a week on old motors. My method is find a washer with the hole the same size diameter of the broken bolt. I hold it over the end of the bolt then. weld the washer hole and the bolt together. Then weld a decent size bolt to the washer. Something I can put a wrench on. Then while it’s still hot douse it with deep creep. Then wait a few mins until cool. Now grab a wrench and slowly move back and forth with little pressure. Works every time!
Channel the inner millwright!! Love it! 1460 Alberta Millwrights represent!
Thanks for the videos.. I've watched all your stuff and there is always something to learn and take away from them. Keep on keepin on
Spiral extractors are always a bit iffy but I've found them to bite better when turned slowly.
I just end up "milling" a vertical slit so i could use a flathead screwdriver.
Good idea!
i use a diamond cutting disc on a dremel, if i'm feeling cocky i sometimes even go for a Philips configuration with the little diamond pokey bits.
+grumpybill when I get it out , I Dremel a smiley face on it.
Sometimes mig welding a nut on the snapped off stud works too.
It seems like sometimes it takes a few tries to get it to stick and get enough heat soak goin, so have a gaggle of crappy nuts to use.
There's about 80 to 93 ways to do this job.
I think drugs are unnecessary for that.
I was looking for a video about extracting bolts just the other day and wondered if you'd talked about it. Turns out you had. Thanks for the video. I had already tried a few of these methods but this confirms my suspicions regarding my next step which involves heat. It's just a pain because the bolt is recessed about 40mm down in a 10mm diameter hole. The best part? Of course it's a chewed up flat head button cap.
I'll get it eventually!
As an exercise in futility I once did this: I had a motor mount bolt break on my 0470 (aluminum block aircraft eng) on my airboat. I drilled the bolt and used a Proto easy out which broke just as the one AvE had, I drilled a hole half in the bolt and half in the easy out, 1/2 inch in that bit broke off. I tried various other bits and tools and ended up with a Dremel and some diamond burr bits for carving that I had. It took 6 hours to get the hole emptied of all the shit broke off in it and I had to Helicoil the damn thing also.
I wish AvE was around that day to cheer me up.
You have to try Kroil sometime, best penetrating oil I've ever used
why wouldn't you thru drill then spray with the freezer spray for better cold penetration < is that a thing? lol
The theory of progression. Start with the least destructive method and work your way up.
Necrophilia?
Might help who knows hey?
The Joy's of being a mechanic in Buffalo. Just ask any mechanic in the North about doing exhaust manifold work on old trucks. Often steel bolts welded into aluminum heads. Here in Buffalo we are not shy with the good old torch. I like to mig a nut onto the broken piece cool then heat around. Beats drilling any day. If it's broken flush I use welder. If its sticking out torch and vice grip or twist socket. If cant be welded I drill on center and plan on drilling all the way. If you do not drill on center and wind up taking it all the way you will ruin the threads. Good thing to keep in mind. The welder trick works great when the work piece is not steel it only sticks to the bolt.
My go to other than left hand drill bits and twist extractors, is an air powered engraving scribe. Works like a charm
What happened the new mill you purchased?
This is almost exactly the procedure I go through every single time.
Canuckistan or Argentina, extracting broken bolts are the fuckiest trick to perform
I love when you do these style vids. You've essentially created a new form of art. I don't mean that as a compliment. I mean it literally, and as a compliment :/
Watching you makes me feel so much better aboot my life. Thank you Ave.
Being a machinist I don't even see broken bolts till they show up in my shop with a broken drill bit or broken ez out stuck in the already broken bolt. Rule of thumb the more broken shit in the hole the higher the price of extraction. Bumblefucks never stop toll it's completely dickered.
Lefthand twistdrill, EZout, Aerokroil and freezy keyboard airsauce....for the win (extraction). That's what I use at the Helac, (the manufacturer of your actuator). P.S. I resent the millwright reference. Oh, and I love the shit out of your channel.
I once had a mechanic break a bolt in my truck's engine. He claimed it wasn't his fault, and warned me of the posibility beforehand, and I believed him for character reasons... But have always wondered since, if he didn't just give up too easily. It cost me a pretty penny... But this vijeo gives some comfort.
something I have used when a easyout (Bolt extractor) Snapped in a broken Bolt was (and I know it's not suitable in all situations) but if you are able to tape it out to the next size up, get a diamond tipped hole sore the size of the Bolt and drill around the snapped extractor. I 8mm diamond hole saw bit to remove a snapped extractor from harden Cromoly motorcycle frame and then drilled and tapped to 10mm.
great videos man.
Your opinion of fish cakes raises an eyebrow! Having just finished oiling the winter greens, the Concubine hath shed her carapace. The flesh is willing and the spirit be fermented- Tally Ho. "Cacher la Saucisse" xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I don't understand.
3 years straight muhamed is the highest registored name for new born child in england/scotland .
fatbarry barry muslim never were a creative community when it came to names.
Luca Hulot ya think lol
enlishbob
Don't you have an Electric discharge machine that would be ideal for removing the broken bolts?
+AvE Just as a heads up, your "How you know somebody is having a bad day" link isn't working.
Remove the "www."
Works if you remove the www. from the front.
I just got four broken gib screws out of my home-gamer mill's knee thanks to the cold chisel method. Sometimes it works the first time, no drilling required. Great success!
I work in a heavy truck shop. I've got a little air powered die grinder with an 1/8" collet. Use that sometimes to hollow out a bolt to the point where there's nothing but threads left and then you just pull the treads out like a spring.
Loctite FREEZE-IT - in Australia.
Why haven't you tried the super cancerous Acetone + Powersteering fluid special?
I need to try that, a lot of the time I mix ATF and brake fluid 50/50.
Mm, sounds like it smells a treat.
Lol, it actually smells good. But it destroys plastic spray bottles. That's why I use a glass jar and small paint brush now. An added bonus is that it doesn't freeze during our Canadian winters.
the fuck does "freeze" mean?
When it gets to -35 C or colder, it doesn't turn into a popsicle
I don't understand, what is that clump of metal?
+AvE Secret oncology stuff?
A magnet for collecting the shavings mebbe?
Do you mean the magnet he uses to get the chips away? It's a magnet.^^
No, the round fat thing he is extracting bolts from.
+piratapan secret hydraulic thingy ma doogigger
Found over the years of drilling aircraft screws and bolts that if I drill at a medium speed the bit will last for 8 or nine bolts. Also the granddads easy outs are still golden. Have ground some down to fit the drill bit I want to use and also grinding a smaller easy out and using the portion that is close to the shank gives a stronger bit. Also invested in one of those T- Handle ratcheting bit holders, another time saver. Time to put out some more fires. Aircraft taxing up.
I have had some complaints about that aftertaste after cleaning fruits and veggies but the presentation points from the shine are top shelf! This is good for most but a pro tip for when you have special guests (like in-laws) and you don't mind chipping out a few extra Washingtons! A quick injection of ethylene glycol and the sweet flavor covers all hints of aftertaste! You're Welcome!
Thats the smallest 15/16 drill bit I've ever seen.....must be some sorta british sizing
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!! I read the /64 just as he said that!
Yeah, it's 15/16ths of a Whitworth, not of an inch, I think.
For best results never ever use a hand held drill to drill out broken bolts, unless you have to of course.
I think he was intentionally limiting himself to what a home gamer might be able to work with? For best results don't break hardware in the first place. Because extracting sucks no matter how you slice it.
Oh yes definitely sucks,but pays well.
Chris Stephens
I suppose if it is not your hardware that broke then there can be a financial upside to it.
I have broken some myself over the years, but now I get them out for others and I wish owners wouldn't try themselves as they tend to bollocks things up by going off centre or breaking easi-outs. I do though admire them for trying but I just wish they wouldn't.
Chris Stephens
That's the problem with hardware. Once you start going down the garden path, it can quickly lead to a slippery slope. Mistakes add up. Breaking the hardware is strike one. Drilling off center is strike two. Breaking the easy out is strike three, and then they know they're out!
I'm SO happy you had those problems. This shite happens to me all the time. I've tried cheap and expensive flutes, from everyone I could. No difference. Glad I'm not alone.
when I first started as an apprentice, an old bloke taught me to never worry about using extractors. just spend extra time getting the pilot hole dead centre and then drill out the entire bolt. as long as you're careful you get next to no thread damage. most of the time it'll come loose when most of the bolt has been drilled out.
need to break out the edm type disintergrator.. they work. t... W
The bad day video link leads to nowhere, could you please check the link?
edit: remove the www from the start then blame uchoob
There's a guy in UA-cam that demonstrates that machine. He says he's the last resort. He does alot of engine heads.
we used EDM as "hail mary" last ditch effort for broken taps/extractors. Just a bolt though? Nah.Often a tiny cold chistle is our goto over those hardened extractors. but drilling center is the key. AvE's extractor was doomed because his pilot hole was rookie league off center. I honestly think that may have been planned, viewers love carnage.
"patents must be up"
Lmfao I would not assume that... Notice how the packaging has no brand names or labels, it's like that so it isn't easy to trace.
just discovered this AWESOME channel. love the lingo, love the comedy. keep doin what ur doin.
Those Grab-bit dealies (what I've always seen 'em called) are pretty good for aircraft purposes. Because damn near every small aircraft from 1950-the 2000's was aluminum everything. So for stripped screws in that purpose they work great. But I never imagined using them on a bolt, I'm not surprised they didn't do much work.
I enjoy left hand drills to extraxt bolts..
nobody enjoys extracting bolts, left hand bit or otherwise
It build's character, or in Ave's case a character lol...
Well it would be fucking hard using s clockwise drill XD
l like to drill them out to the threads then run a tap down it, but most of my stuff is rusted in.
Mustie1 damn dude keepem lubed.
isnt that what penetrating oils are for?
The price of the scrap + the bits that have made their way to tool heaven.
This is so good! Im glad to see that I'm not the only one with the ability to royals root drill bits in quick succession!
Aerokroil!!!!!!
heli coil is better
Came here to state this same thing. That shit is a god damned miracle as far as I'm concerned.
A good quality helicoil is superb. We use them ALL the time in turbo machinery drivetrains because they increase the contact of the fastener and are made of hardened steel So they can hold uncanny torque. We regularly torqued fasteners well beyond 3k lb/ft
Aero Kroil (which I think just means regular Kroil packaged in an aerosol can), and/or Mouse Milk are pretty much industry leaders in penetrating oils... how did thread inserts end up in this thread?
Timeserts are fantastic, seems almost no one has heard of them though which is a shame because people will keep using the same crap bound up spring helicoils for plug holes that will keep letting loose and further screwing their hole.
of course we still make stuff in england, I just cannot remember what it is, yes i remember, tea, oh not that is from India . No I have got it, we make the Language, you try speaking without us, not so clever now are we?
You think that's the Queen's good English that AvE is manglin' there, sir?
In fairness to him he has fully grasped the the concepts of Highperbole and the correct use of the malapropism
Paul Adams like your pronunciation of Jagwire without the R
They try speaking without your people, but it isn't very successful
Well...fair enough but f*ck you all the same sir.
Summary: The grade of the drill motor/gearing matters when dealing with bigger bolts such as on vehicle suspension. A house drill will not do as well as a higher grade industrial hammer drill (set to low gear, hammer function disabled). Cordless drills are a mixed bag (battery life may not be long enough,, or even worse the battery may self destruct).
Full story:
Had to drill out 12mm wide metric 10.9 grade mounting bolts which snapped when I attempted to remove the rusted out rear shocks in my '08 Caravan to replace them for the bi-annual NS MVI (no I don't have oxy-acteleyne).
I took an insanely long time drilling upside down under the car with multiple re-sharpening of HSS/HS2 bits and wasted too much time with my POS Mastercraft house drill with that awful tool-less chuck. A house drill is pure crap and is what caused more bit wiping then anything (and later wiped its chuck which is now a desk ornament at work). With the van on the stands, I went out on my bicycle and got a $100 Bostitch 120VAC/7.5A Hammer drill (with screw chuck) later on that dreadful night from Wal-Mart. Using the Bostitch with the same drill bits, I absolutely decimated the remaining parts within an hour of the bolts enough to make new holes, and mounted the new shocks the next day. Chrysler/Dodge uses a really crappy factory anti-seize coating for their bolts (I got it at 136K and it had the problem them).
P.S.: I'll give that cheap blue Mastercraft house drill credit as its motor/gearing survived many hours of HARD drilling - which it IS NOT designed for; when opened the internal still looked new with the brushes barely worn and nothing scorched. It simply doesn't have the breaking torque that my Bostitch has for drilling hardened steel. I have replaced its chuck and it is working GREAT once again as a HOUSE drill for the wife's wishes; punishing jobs like drill for car work or concrete will be done with the Bostitch.
Old vid I know. Maybe someone already mentioned it but buy a Ridgid extractor set. RIDGID 35585 comes with bits, drill guides, and extractors. Helps center the bit and the extractors are strait spline not tapered flutes so you don’t get expansion of the bolt. Just over $90 bucks from Amazon. Fapoff sells the same kit for way more money and their name on it.
All the gear no idea !
he broke like €50 worth of drill bits during just this video.
It isn't easy, but like you stated, if the bolt head shears off, the shaft of the bolt shouldn't be under any torque load. The nastier the shear, the better for you. The smoother it snaps off, the more it will suck to build friction to turn it out. You just need a gnarly jagged flathead screwdriver and a hammer, and a ton of patience. Find a good spot on the bolt shaft to grip with the screwdriver like a chisel and you can get it out. I had a pair of bolts that went from my motor mount bracket into my block in my Jeep that busted. I thought I was screwed, but I worked at it diligently, and they eventually came out. You might almost be worse off using a ton of lubricant. It will make the shaft head harder to grip, and it might cause hydraulic drag in the threads if it absorbs into them. Just some food for thought.
PCB burrs are brilliant for dealing with the smaller sizes, say M4 or less. You can get 10 from eBay for next to nothing, and you're sure to break a few. High RPM and the slowest possible feed will slowly turn it to dust. If you break it, you can usually get the cutter out easily because you're almost grinding and it doesn't jam in the hole. You can destroy broken taps this way, but it does take time.
Whatever method you use, you'll always get it out easier if you really take the time to drill down as close to the centre as possible. Drills will always wander, and many threads are ruined by the drill going off to one side.
you only need one good hole!!!
Don't make things in England phhttttt we have been making Europe cry for two weeks now
Slayed me when the square puller snapped. Epically the way things go on a broken bolt removal.
I'd love to see freeze spray + one of those spring loaded nail drivers (maybe a super homemade one?) just to see if a bolt can be fractured. Come to think of it, a stand mounted spring loaded whacker would be an interesting tool. Maybe with a laser pointer, and some kind of high powered spring that needs a crank/lever to stretch it, and a release mechanism that can be actuated while standing behind a lexan shield - this would be cool to see.