Thanks for the video. One addition: to press the little 'catch' keeping the key in place it's easier to insert a credit card (or something similarly thin and stiff) vertically to the left side of each white key and press the catch down till the key can be sliced forward a bit. You don't have to flip over the entire keyboard to reach underneath. This also makes it more easy to take out some keys in the middle of the keyboard without having to remove the rest. You might want to refer to the 'Korg RH3 action' somewhere in the title of the video, as the (excellent) RH3 keyboard is used in many more Korg models (digital pianos and keyboard controllers) than just the SV-1. That way people will be better able to find your video.
My god I searched the whole friggin' internet for this video and then this comment. Thanks so much everyone. I got my key out, and....there's no spring! Anywhere! Like...how?!?
THANK YOU! I have been tinkering with this for awhile on my M3-88 that needs some TLC... with little success removing keys and found your video. Great explanation.
Thanks, this video really helped me fix a Korg M3 88-key. The ears on the base bracket for a black key had snapped off but I was able to superglue them back on.
@@JordanColburn1 The keys were fine, it was the pivot for the hammer that had broken. I would have had to take apart the steel frame and PCB if the glue didn't hold
Hey Man! On my SV1, the problem occurred that one white key in the middle is all of a sudden way louder than the others... Is it possible to replace the tech/ the sensor behind just one key? Thanks for your help already! Greetings from Germany
That keybed seems to be completely dry in the guiding parts. You need to lub them with PFPE PTFE (Example: KRYTOX G2, viscosity is needed or else the plastic keys will clonk against the plastic guides, making the keybed feel cheap). For that purpose you need to take out all keys one by one and apply the lub either on the male part, either on the female part). Apply it with a small screw drive making small waves. You can use a small hair brush too, but don't slide the hair brush. Simply make waves. To reinstall the keybed use the supplied card spacers for travelling. Follow the maintenance manual for correct tight screw sequence. If you dont feel comfortable with this, send it for repair to a qualified KORG authorized technician. Good luck. Cheers.
Do you think these Korg D1, while having a Japanese key bed that is supposed to be one of the best for the sub $1000 range, has more problems than its worth? Seems a large percentage of people receive shipments with broken keys :( I'm reluctant to purchase this due to that reason but only other alternatives are Roland FP-30X, Kawai ES110 and Yamaha DGX670 or P125. Yamaha P515 is double the cost, but I hear has good key bed.
Hi mate, great job!... Please tell me which key action is the best (faster, more reliable and confortable), between this Korg RH3 and the others, like Yamaha NWX, Roland PHA4/50 and Kawai RHIII?.
Hey thanks for the tips, I have the same keyboard but one of my middle black keys is a little loose, the "hammer" is not aligned with the other keys, its like its being slighty pressed down, do you know what that might be and how to fix it?
Not sure, it's been a while since I worked on this keyboard (for a friend). My basic troubleshooting step would be to remove the key and see if any of the plastic pieces were broken. As a test, you could swap in another black key of a similar note. If that doesn't fix it, the problem may be the hammer is broken or misaligned, but I'm not quite sure what the fix for that would be. Good luck troubleshooting!
Thanks for your video! Super helpful, I also own a SV-1 that needs key replacement. From where did you get your keys? I was having a hard time locating "B" and "E" keys. Also, would you happen to know how to replace the tube on the SV-1? Thanks Again!
Thanks! I think I got them from syntaur. I hard a hard time finding them at first, but then a little later they seemed to be in stock. Full compass had some sporadic ones if I remember correctly.
Just a quick help on removing keys. If you use a credit card or a hard plastic card. Put it to the left of the natural key where the line is on the key. You will feel it drop into the groove. Push down in that grove and with the other hand, pull the back of the key towards you. All the naturals will pop out this way. Flats will come out with no effort when you pull them towards you.
Hello, thanks for the interesting Video! Maybe you could help me with your experience. I got delivered today my brandnew Korg D1 with the RH3 action. It didn't come in a really new packaging! The problem now is, that the keyboard action smells unpleasant, not to say smelly. I'm wondering now, if it could be that it stinks, because it has been repaired already? Or is it normal that a new RH3 stinks, and will will it dissipate over time? I would be very happy with an answer. Kind regards from Germany!
I noticed a little smell only when working on it that I think came from the gel lubricant underneath the keys when it got on my fingers. I never noticed it under normal conditions. I'd give it a few days and if it doesn't resolve itself, contact your seller for more info or a refund if it bothers you enough.
Hello! I need some help. Apparently there are 4 different types of hammers for white keys and 4 different types of hammers for black keys. Is there a reference to sort out which hammer goes where? Thank you in advance!!
Found the answer: The RH3 action hammer distribution should be from A0 to C8 : 20 / 33 / 18 / 17. So A0 to E2 (20 keys) gets “A”weight. F2 to C#5 (33 keys) gets “B”weight D5 to G6 (18 keys) gets “C” weight G#6 to C8 (17 keys) gets “D” weight
@@DjRafiV Thanks for sharing that here! Sorry, I had no idea, since my hammers all stayed in place. I didn't even know they were different, but that makes sense for the action. Thanks!
Nope. It's a physical property of the keyboard you have. It might be possible to add or remove weights from each key, but in general, they keyboard you bought is what you have.
I think so, as long as its uses the RH3 keybed (I know the 73 and 88 do). Check when buying replacements that your model kronos is specifically mentioned.
Thank you for sharing very helpful, especially the part about the tabs and access to them underneath the keyboard.
Thanks for the video. One addition: to press the little 'catch' keeping the key in place it's easier to insert a credit card (or something similarly thin and stiff) vertically to the left side of each white key and press the catch down till the key can be sliced forward a bit. You don't have to flip over the entire keyboard to reach underneath. This also makes it more easy to take out some keys in the middle of the keyboard without having to remove the rest.
You might want to refer to the 'Korg RH3 action' somewhere in the title of the video, as the (excellent) RH3 keyboard is used in many more Korg models (digital pianos and keyboard controllers) than just the SV-1. That way people will be better able to find your video.
Thanks so much! I felt like I was missing something that would make that easier. And will add that to the description. Thanks!
Great tip thanks! I have the sp 250 and its the same keyboard action.
My god I searched the whole friggin' internet for this video and then this comment. Thanks so much everyone. I got my key out, and....there's no spring! Anywhere! Like...how?!?
THANK YOU! I have been tinkering with this for awhile on my M3-88 that needs some TLC... with little success removing keys and found your video. Great explanation.
Thanks for watching. Hope you get it fixed! It's not as intuitive as it should be!
Thank you for the video. I have several keys to replace on my SV-1 88 and this instructional video will definitely help!!
Very helpful, I could replace my broken d-key. Thanks for the video!
Thanks, this video really helped me fix a Korg M3 88-key. The ears on the base bracket for a black key had snapped off but I was able to superglue them back on.
Thanks. So glad it helped! New keys might last a bit longer, if you can find them, but glad you are back with a working keyboard
@@JordanColburn1 The keys were fine, it was the pivot for the hammer that had broken. I would have had to take apart the steel frame and PCB if the glue didn't hold
Thanks was trying to figure out spring
Thanks. I was replacing a key in an SP-250 and couldn't figure where the leaf spring attaches to the key.
Are these keybeds less prone to developing noisy keys than the Yamaha/Roland ones that seem to require grease application every few months?
Hey. Any idea why the bottom octave on my Korg Trinity is not working? I took it apart and replaced broken keys.
Hey Man!
On my SV1, the problem occurred that one white key in the middle is all of a sudden way louder than the others... Is it possible to replace the tech/ the sensor behind just one key? Thanks for your help already!
Greetings from Germany
Thank you so, so much!
That keybed seems to be completely dry in the guiding parts. You need to lub them with PFPE PTFE (Example: KRYTOX G2, viscosity is needed or else the plastic keys will clonk against the plastic guides, making the keybed feel cheap). For that purpose you need to take out all keys one by one and apply the lub either on the male part, either on the female part). Apply it with a small screw drive making small waves. You can use a small hair brush too, but don't slide the hair brush. Simply make waves. To reinstall the keybed use the supplied card spacers for travelling. Follow the maintenance manual for correct tight screw sequence. If you dont feel comfortable with this, send it for repair to a qualified KORG authorized technician. Good luck. Cheers.
Do you think these Korg D1, while having a Japanese key bed that is supposed to be one of the best for the sub $1000 range, has more problems than its worth? Seems a large percentage of people receive shipments with broken keys :( I'm reluctant to purchase this due to that reason but only other alternatives are Roland FP-30X, Kawai ES110 and Yamaha DGX670 or P125. Yamaha P515 is double the cost, but I hear has good key bed.
Hi mate, great job!... Please tell me which key action is the best (faster, more reliable and confortable), between this Korg RH3 and the others, like Yamaha NWX, Roland PHA4/50 and Kawai RHIII?.
No idea. Only played this one. I liked it better than any other non piano keyboard I've tried. It does seem delicate though, hence this repair video.
Hey thanks for the tips, I have the same keyboard but one of my middle black keys is a little loose, the "hammer" is not aligned with the other keys, its like its being slighty pressed down, do you know what that might be and how to fix it?
Not sure, it's been a while since I worked on this keyboard (for a friend). My basic troubleshooting step would be to remove the key and see if any of the plastic pieces were broken. As a test, you could swap in another black key of a similar note. If that doesn't fix it, the problem may be the hammer is broken or misaligned, but I'm not quite sure what the fix for that would be. Good luck troubleshooting!
Thanks for your video! Super helpful, I also own a SV-1 that needs key replacement.
From where did you get your keys? I was having a hard time locating "B" and "E" keys.
Also, would you happen to know how to replace the tube on the SV-1?
Thanks Again!
Thanks! I think I got them from syntaur. I hard a hard time finding them at first, but then a little later they seemed to be in stock. Full compass had some sporadic ones if I remember correctly.
I bought a brand new E key at synth-parts.com
Just a quick help on removing keys. If you use a credit card or a hard plastic card. Put it to the left of the natural key where the line is on the key. You will feel it drop into the groove. Push down in that grove and with the other hand, pull the back of the key towards you. All the naturals will pop out this way. Flats will come out with no effort when you pull them towards you.
Hello,
thanks for the interesting Video!
Maybe you could help me with your experience. I got delivered today my brandnew Korg D1 with the RH3 action. It didn't come in a really new packaging! The problem now is, that the keyboard action smells unpleasant, not to say smelly. I'm wondering now, if it could be that it stinks, because it has been repaired already?
Or is it normal that a new RH3 stinks, and will will it dissipate over time?
I would be very happy with an answer.
Kind regards from Germany!
I noticed a little smell only when working on it that I think came from the gel lubricant underneath the keys when it got on my fingers. I never noticed it under normal conditions.
I'd give it a few days and if it doesn't resolve itself, contact your seller for more info or a refund if it bothers you enough.
Thank you very much.
Hello! I need some help. Apparently there are 4 different types of hammers for white keys and 4 different types of hammers for black keys. Is there a reference to sort out which hammer goes where? Thank you in advance!!
Found the answer:
The RH3 action hammer distribution should be from A0 to C8 :
20 / 33 / 18 / 17.
So A0 to E2 (20 keys) gets “A”weight.
F2 to C#5 (33 keys) gets “B”weight
D5 to G6 (18 keys) gets “C” weight
G#6 to C8 (17 keys) gets “D” weight
@@DjRafiV Thanks for sharing that here! Sorry, I had no idea, since my hammers all stayed in place. I didn't even know they were different, but that makes sense for the action. Thanks!
thanks!
Is it possible to change from weighted to semi or even synth action on a midi controller keyboard???
Nope. It's a physical property of the keyboard you have. It might be possible to add or remove weights from each key, but in general, they keyboard you bought is what you have.
@@JordanColburn1 I see. Thank you.
Much appreciated.
Hi.. would these keys work for the Kronos
I think so, as long as its uses the RH3 keybed (I know the 73 and 88 do). Check when buying replacements that your model kronos is specifically mentioned.
@@JordanColburn1 thank u so much!!