Great video! I have a swamp runner and I've tried the same thing you done, except I had different results, the pvc sleeve has rubbed against the end bushing, which cut off water flow to cool it down, this has lead to something very intersting. The sleeve has worked its way inside the bushing between the inner shaft and the bushing. Now I have to replace the end bushing with a new one. Hopefully there is a different solution to solve this problem. Good luck out there!
You forgot the smaller piece of pvc I side the 1"! I watched that video too use a 1"piece and cut a piece of 3/4"pvc, fit the smaller into the larger then fit on the shaft then prop and nut.
Beaver dam mud motors make a prop guard that fits all Thai style mud motors, I used to use it when I would go into the small canals I used to hunt back in the swamp full of Cypress knees and logs may work out better for you. Just gets caught up sometimes in really thick vegetation but u can easily clean it by Dunkin the prop a few times.
Awesome video +Trey Larson!! 👌 And thank you for the support and for telling me about this video! I'm surprised that happened to the PVC bushing! I don't know if its because you have a bigger motor or what happened to make the PVC bushing do that. I don't know if your inner shaft diameter on the SPS large kit is the same as my SPS Medium kit, but I was able to put a 3/4" PVC inside the 1" to make it thicker and sit flush with the end bushing. It gives it two layers of sch 40 PVC so maybe its less prone to heat. Ever since I made mine, I haven't collected any weeds since. I may have a few more tricks to get it weedless....
Thanks man!!! It definitely was working until I took it into that super thick stuff. I’m going to try another one and possibly some other ideas. Your videos are fantastic man!
It works but I took mine off 5 years of running mine it takes tiller time and just knowing how to do what I call the “bump and jump” as you are running keeping it clear. The lakes here if FL are thick not sure where your at but would show ya if your close it’s easy once ya get it hell I don’t even notice I do it anymore lol
If you cut or break off a small pocket knife blade and then hose clamp it to the end of your long tail drive so that the tip of the broken blade is about a 1/16 to an 1/8th inch from touching your prop it will cut and chop all the weeds as the prop swings them by. I wrap the hose clamp in electrical tape. I tried this as a quick fix while fishing crawfish ponds and it worked so well that I never bothered to improve upon it. You could weld it or wire tie it or epoxy it for a more hydro dynamic flow but these things are so crude to start with and it works fine with this 5 minute fix. serrated blade was what i had on me and used. Broke the blade in a vise . The square flat broken tip lines up good at the leading edge of your prop and quickly shortens the pocket knife blade to a usable level. After you hit heavy weeds just raise your prop and rev it once. Weeds will still wrap your shaft in between your blade and shaft but wont matter much.
Hey bro. If u want it more weedless there is a simple trick to it. Yea, u will have to cut some metal but it works. Simply measure the gap distance like u did with the spacer you made. Then disassemble the motor and then you can cut that much of your engine shaft off to allow the drive shaft to slide up further in the housing to take up that gap. Be sure that the shaft will slide up in the housing first to take the gap out before you cut the engine shaft off. And leave a small gap between the prop and shaft bushing in case the next prop goes on further up the shaft. Btw, great video
C Price dang I definitely see how that would work but that scares me that I will mess it up lol I really appreciate the advice though!! If I can’t figure out another way that is not as permanent I may go that route!
yea that's the problem but as you know it is not really the prop it is the shaft. Happens to me.also plastic bags here in Thailand there are lots in the water, unfortunately.
You still have this swamp runner and would you recommend it with the 22hp. I run a shallow river here where i live and looking at something like this. Any advice is much welcome
Yes it is. My boat is a 2008 so the aluminum isn’t as sturdy as a new 1436. But as you can see it handles the 22hp. Be careful though because without the metal brace I put on the transom, the transom was bending pretty good.
Great video! I have a swamp runner and I've tried the same thing you done, except I had different results, the pvc sleeve has rubbed against the end bushing, which cut off water flow to cool it down, this has lead to something very intersting. The sleeve has worked its way inside the bushing between the inner shaft and the bushing. Now I have to replace the end bushing with a new one. Hopefully there is a different solution to solve this problem. Good luck out there!
You forgot the smaller piece of pvc I side the 1"! I watched that video too use a 1"piece and cut a piece of 3/4"pvc, fit the smaller into the larger then fit on the shaft then prop and nut.
Beaver dam mud motors make a prop guard that fits all Thai style mud motors, I used to use it when I would go into the small canals I used to hunt back in the swamp full of Cypress knees and logs may work out better for you. Just gets caught up sometimes in really thick vegetation but u can easily clean it by Dunkin the prop a few times.
Awesome video +Trey Larson!! 👌 And thank you for the support and for telling me about this video! I'm surprised that happened to the PVC bushing! I don't know if its because you have a bigger motor or what happened to make the PVC bushing do that. I don't know if your inner shaft diameter on the SPS large kit is the same as my SPS Medium kit, but I was able to put a 3/4" PVC inside the 1" to make it thicker and sit flush with the end bushing. It gives it two layers of sch 40 PVC so maybe its less prone to heat. Ever since I made mine, I haven't collected any weeds since. I may have a few more tricks to get it weedless....
Thanks man!!! It definitely was working until I took it into that super thick stuff. I’m going to try another one and possibly some other ideas. Your videos are fantastic man!
👍 It's awesome to get feedback from a viewer/subscriber and to get a video along with an explanation, great job! Looking forward to more video!
Did you figure out a solution?
findurfreek not yet. Back to researching!
@@JTgatoring read my last post that I gave Mr Larson.
It works but I took mine off 5 years of running mine it takes tiller time and just knowing how to do what I call the “bump and jump” as you are running keeping it clear. The lakes here if FL are thick not sure where your at but would show ya if your close it’s easy once ya get it hell I don’t even notice I do it anymore lol
I saw that video did not think it would work like his channel though and yours don't forget to have fun...
Awesome video man! What is that mount/bracket you're using to stow/transport the longtail shaft? Good idea, btw!
If you cut or break off a small pocket knife blade and then hose clamp it to the end of your long tail drive so that the tip of the broken blade is about a 1/16 to an 1/8th inch from touching your prop it will cut and chop all the weeds as the prop swings them by. I wrap the hose clamp in electrical tape. I tried this as a quick fix while fishing crawfish ponds and it worked so well that I never bothered to improve upon it. You could weld it or wire tie it or epoxy it for a more hydro dynamic flow but these things are so crude to start with and it works fine with this 5 minute fix. serrated blade was what i had on me and used. Broke the blade in a vise . The square flat broken tip lines up good at the leading edge of your prop and quickly shortens the pocket knife blade to a usable level. After you hit heavy weeds just raise your prop and rev it once. Weeds will still wrap your shaft in between your blade and shaft but wont matter much.
Hey bro. If u want it more weedless there is a simple trick to it. Yea, u will have to cut some metal but it works. Simply measure the gap distance like u did with the spacer you made. Then disassemble the motor and then you can cut that much of your engine shaft off to allow the drive shaft to slide up further in the housing to take up that gap. Be sure that the shaft will slide up in the housing first to take the gap out before you cut the engine shaft off. And leave a small gap between the prop and shaft bushing in case the next prop goes on further up the shaft.
Btw, great video
C Price dang I definitely see how that would work but that scares me that I will mess it up lol I really appreciate the advice though!! If I can’t figure out another way that is not as permanent I may go that route!
What type of top speed did you get from having a 22hp on a 1436? I’m looking to do the same setup after I redo my transom
Great Video Trey what lake is that it I like the cypress trees.
yea that's the problem but as you know it is not really the prop it is the shaft. Happens to me.also plastic bags here in Thailand there are lots in the water, unfortunately.
You still have this swamp runner and would you recommend it with the 22hp. I run a shallow river here where i live and looking at something like this. Any advice is much welcome
Did It work
How much it cost to build your set up
How fast you runnin
What speeds are u getting
Is that a 1436 I just bought a 13hp this makes me want to return it and get a 22
Yes it is. My boat is a 2008 so the aluminum isn’t as sturdy as a new 1436. But as you can see it handles the 22hp. Be careful though because without the metal brace I put on the transom, the transom was bending pretty good.
How about a bearing just a thought
Use brass
Try bamboo