I just put this set up on my 1236, still trying to get my weight distribution right. I just ordered the 8.75” weedless that Steve at Swamp Runner suggested. My Jon has been gutted, so no bench seats or front deck, it’s really light.
I know you don't use the electric stat. So here is a idea for ya. Take the electric stat off and the fly wheel. Once you remove the fly wheel, you should be able to heat the teeth ring on the fly wheel up and knock it off. This should gain a little hp if you would want. Great video bro! Looking forward for more
I run this exact combo but 9" on my 15/40 alumacraft. runs just over 20 with just me in it. needs weight in the bow or the wake is behind the prop 100" shaft. Mine has a straight pipe air filter and drilled main jet
Hello JT, I've been watching your videos for over a year now and always learn something. You have helped me choose my rig and saved me money. I always enjoy watching your videos. Now that you've tried all of the contenders, I imagine that you've got a stockpile of longtail parts and pieces behind the shed. With this episode being about testing different props, it got me to thinking. Are the props interchangeable between the different brands? Does one company make better props than the others? Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Hey Bob, thank you for your longtime support on the channel! So when it comes to the thai longtails, most of the props are interchangeable. Some of the mudskipper props I got did not have a keyway, they just had a smooth bore, so they would not fit on the keyed shafts by sps or clp. I wouldn't be able to compare the durability of the props because I really only run the swamp runner props. I have the cks and clp props as spares in the back of my boat. I've never broke a prop and I think that's due to the swamp runner weedless prop that I always run when I'm playing in the shallows. The swamp runner weedless prop is a thicker built prop and I also don't try to sideswipe anything either which helps a lot too haha
@@JTgatoring thanks for the quick response. I suspected that all the shafts were the same, with the same taper. As far as the keyed shaft, if it came down to it, it wouldn't be a big deal to cut a keyway into an aluminum prop. Thanks again!
@@bob2161 Your welcome! Yeah, you could cut a keyway in a prop or you could sand down the keyway on the shaft. The taper of the shaft is what really holds the prop anyways. Best of luck!
I really enjoyed the hurricane props when I had the SPS kit on the boat. I look forward to running them again...hopefully soon haha let me know how that 8" hurricane treats ya!
@@JTgatoring i have a 1436 with a predator 420 and medium kit and with my gf and i we hit 15 mph at 3800 rpm with a 8.75 weedless. But when i put my 8.5 hurricane on it, the engine bogs down with both of us in it . But with just me it goes 16mph at 3400 rpm, any suggestions on the next prop I should look for?
@@lukemurphy6553 Normally the standard props are best when it comes to carrying a load. You should have an 8.5" standard so give that a try. If you buy any props, try the 8" standard and the 8" hurricane. The hurricanes are meant for higher rpms and normally a light load. The weedless seems to be a compromise between a standard prop and a hurricane prop when it comes to speed plus it is weedless. That is what I would do prop-wise. Depending on your load and how it's placed in the hull, you may just be asking too much of that setup if you want to go faster.
@@JTgatoring i have the standard 8.5 and run it mostly hunting with heavy loads and does great. Im looking for the fastest i can get and decent handling for fishing and just playing around. Thinking the 8” hurricane might be the right one.
Great content, JT. Any idea of how the Hurricane's handle weeds? And a question I've been waiting to ask: are you still happy with the medium kit and the 13hp Predator? I am getting closer to getting one every time i watch one of your vids. Keep up the great work!
Thank you SluSharkND! I am very pleased with this setup. I think its the best any person could get for a single person ride. The 1436 is light enough to push and move by yourself along with the 13hp being the perfect weight and HP. Once you get to a bigger boat or motor, it becomes to heavy to handle if you get stuck, and the smaller boat and smaller motors don't have enough torque to eat up vegetation. As for the hurricane props, I have not tested them in weeds yet. I will dedicate a day to go play in vegetation and see how props do
@@JTgatoring Thank you for the detailed reply. Always like your content but this really does have a practical side for some of us, so the reviews are much appreciated
So what happened with the American long tail vids. I’m waiting. I actually have the 13hp Backwater kit on a 14’ Tracker. I put Backwaters grab-bar in the boat. It’s the finest shallow water boat I have. Got to tune it right. I use it for my early sight fly fishing trout and carp boat.
Ya dude that thing was scootin. Could you make a video showing the removing of the shaft and removing the engine? I saw a guy trying to get the shaft in and he made it look hard lol.
JTgatoring you rock man! I’ve got the kit in the buy screen. That’s just the only thing that’s got my nervous to buy it cause if they don’t work I won’t be able to lift the motor and boat separately into my truck bed
@@tylerw1418 Yeah, no worries. I mean the longtail shaft would come out first while the engine is still attached to the boat. That leaves the green coupler housing on the engine. Then take the cotter pin and nut off the gimbal that holds the gimbal rod into the transom bracket, and lift the engine up and out by grabbing the tiller handle and coupler housing or anywhere else on the engine. The only thing left on the boat is the transom bracket and that's clamped on so you could remove that if you wanted too but in your case it doesn't sound like you need to remove that. I should be able to get that video out around the 10th
Jt, for the entire two years I have had my motor not once has it just turned on after one crank. Never. If its less than 15 cranks its a great day. If i cold start it and then turn it off it takes even longer. Any advice? is there a Checklist I need for engine maintenence? Watching you do that blew my mind.
Hey Jonas! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. I am no mechanic or an engine guy, so take my words with caution and research them further. A few things to try; a new spark plug, ethanol-free gas, and run it dry after every outing. So the first thing I did was replace the spark plug and then kept the old one as a backup. I then made a switch to only running ethanol-free gas. Before I made the switch, I ran some Seafoam (50/50 mix) totaling about a quarter of a gallon mix which made it run for about 15 minutes at wide-open throttle (WOT). And then when you are done running it for the day, start the engine (make sure everyone and everything is clear of the prop. I do this while I'm in the water at the boat ramp off to the side so I'm not in the way), turn the fuel off on the engine, and let the engine run till it dies. That way it runs the carb out of fuel and it doesn't gunk up. Other than that, I almost always have to choke it to get it to start and then immediately un-choke it. You can also check your idler screw which adjusts your idle. If you're idle is too low it will not want to start and you really have to work it. Another thing is making sure your electrical connections are good so it's not an iffy contact. This is in regards to your safety kill switch and low oil sensor. Make sure everything has a strong connection without corrosion. That should cover the majority of it as long as you haven't modified the engine. Let me know what you find and if this helped. Best of luck and thanks again.
@@JTgatoring Awesome. Gonna try the seafoam, and I had no idea I even had an idler screw, gonna have to find that. Engine does not like to idle at all, I rarely let it idle cuase It has a habit of just shutting off if I let it idle too long. Could be the answer. Thanks for the detailed response, super helpfull. Hopefully that does the trick. love the videos.
@@jonastatu3607 Awesome. I'm glad I mentioned it then. The idler screw is sensitive, so make small adjustments. Once you have it where you want it, use a thread locking agent on it That may be the issue you are having. I had mine rattle loose and cause similar issues, just not as severe as you have described. Let me know if you are able to get it fixed. I'm glad to help and appreciate your kind words
I have 1436 Alumacraft 1436 LT with 11.5HP Honda and the SPS long tail. Love the setup and I’m getting 19mph top speed. Just wondering is bigger prop better for running in vegetation? Can’t say enough good about SPS Kit
Thats a tough one. I run the 8.75" weedless prop if I plan to be in heavy vegetation. Hands down the best prop. If you don't have that prop, get it, but if you can't, my thought is that my engine would rather spin a smaller prop rather than a larger prop. So if you end up getting stuck with a 8.5", then I would probably drop down to a 8" and give it a try first before I jumped up to the 9" but I haven't tested this theory yet.
Is it Pretty easy to put the prop in the boat ,,sitting in the boat,,for bream fishing purposes,up in the cypress,,I would rather the short handle sticking off the back than that long shaft
Yes. If you watch some other videos, you'll be able to see me do it while I'm out in the open water. It will take some getting used to, but it's definitely doable for most people.
Have you ever considered putting a twist throttle on your long tail like a dirt bike? I know my 27hp kills my hand after a while and I was thinking about tossing on a twist.
I have not. Some mud motors have the twist throttle, but I never had an issue with the throttle lever on my swamp runner. For the backwater mud motor kit that is being tested now, that one does make my hand numb after 10 minutes but its not the from the throttle, more from the vibration. It did have a static throttle that I did not like, but I switched it to a squeeze lever and its much better.
This is pretty thin aluminum. I wouldn't want to put it up against rocks. Hitting logs makes me pucker... I wouldn't even want to think about rocky shoals
How is the noise on this in the stock configuration and compared to a traditional outboard? I have seen the modified versions with kits and to me, they are too loud.
I agree with you. Once these small engines get modified and have an aftermarket exhaust, they become too loud. I don't think the stock engine is too loud. Especially if you're on plane. Idling around isn't bad either. By no means quiet, but no need or desire to look for ear protection.
It would depend on your kit. This is a great place to start - ua-cam.com/video/FAA7j0dVrLU/v-deo.html - describe your setup and I'd be able to help you more
@@jasonbarnett7900 Tail is probably too short. To try and fix your issue, your pivot point should be as close to the engine as possible. Stick with the 8.5" prop for now and test with that. Then make sure you're center of the wake and see where it is riding. If you're more than a foot in front of the wake, its likely that your tail is too short. You should be running a 100" shaft on that boat.
@@jasonbarnett7900 It's not so much the angle, it's more of where the prop is. The location of the prop decreases its ability to bite and hold in the water so it jumps out, and yes, the angle does affect that and it makes the situation worse having the steeper angle. Getting the shaft closer to the wake puts more of the prop in the water so it can grab, and the decreased angle increases its ability to grab so it won't jump or ride out.
Seeing the speed and ease of maneuverability I really want to sell my surface drive mud motor and go long tail!
A properly dialed-in longtail can really do some work. I know I really enjoy mine.
I just put this set up on my 1236, still trying to get my weight distribution right. I just ordered the 8.75” weedless that Steve at Swamp Runner suggested. My Jon has been gutted, so no bench seats or front deck, it’s really light.
Yeah, getting your weight distribution makes a world of difference. Get some bow weight and it should handle better.
I was waiting for that crescent wrench to slip haha. I'm glad it didn't.
Crescent wrench = Swedish nut lathe
Dude looks similar to donut operator!!! Lol🤣🤣
I know you don't use the electric stat. So here is a idea for ya. Take the electric stat off and the fly wheel. Once you remove the fly wheel, you should be able to heat the teeth ring on the fly wheel up and knock it off. This should gain a little hp if you would want.
Great video bro! Looking forward for more
Never heard of anyone doing that. I'll look into that, thanks C Price!
@@JTgatoring it's just your decreasing the rotating mass that your engine has to turn. So it'll put more hp to the prop.
Absolutely Love this Video!
Thank you!!
@@JTgatoring I'm going to put one of these on my boat too
I run this exact combo but 9" on my 15/40 alumacraft. runs just over 20 with just me in it. needs weight in the bow or the wake is behind the prop 100" shaft. Mine has a straight pipe air filter and drilled main jet
Nice! I like the 9" prop. It rides well on my setup. I'd like to try the 100" shaft and see if I notice any benefit
Hello JT, I've been watching your videos for over a year now and always learn something. You have helped me choose my rig and saved me money. I always enjoy watching your videos.
Now that you've tried all of the contenders, I imagine that you've got a stockpile of longtail parts and pieces behind the shed.
With this episode being about testing different props, it got me to thinking. Are the props interchangeable between the different brands? Does one company make better props than the others?
Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Hey Bob, thank you for your longtime support on the channel! So when it comes to the thai longtails, most of the props are interchangeable. Some of the mudskipper props I got did not have a keyway, they just had a smooth bore, so they would not fit on the keyed shafts by sps or clp. I wouldn't be able to compare the durability of the props because I really only run the swamp runner props. I have the cks and clp props as spares in the back of my boat. I've never broke a prop and I think that's due to the swamp runner weedless prop that I always run when I'm playing in the shallows. The swamp runner weedless prop is a thicker built prop and I also don't try to sideswipe anything either which helps a lot too haha
@@JTgatoring thanks for the quick response. I suspected that all the shafts were the same, with the same taper. As far as the keyed shaft, if it came down to it, it wouldn't be a big deal to cut a keyway into an aluminum prop.
Thanks again!
@@bob2161 Your welcome! Yeah, you could cut a keyway in a prop or you could sand down the keyway on the shaft. The taper of the shaft is what really holds the prop anyways. Best of luck!
excelente video saludos desde argentina!1
Thank you!!
Just got one of those 8" Hurricanes too!
I really enjoyed the hurricane props when I had the SPS kit on the boat. I look forward to running them again...hopefully soon haha let me know how that 8" hurricane treats ya!
@@JTgatoring i have a 1436 with a predator 420 and medium kit and with my gf and i we hit 15 mph at 3800 rpm with a 8.75 weedless. But when i put my 8.5 hurricane on it, the engine bogs down with both of us in it . But with just me it goes 16mph at 3400 rpm, any suggestions on the next prop I should look for?
@@lukemurphy6553 Normally the standard props are best when it comes to carrying a load. You should have an 8.5" standard so give that a try. If you buy any props, try the 8" standard and the 8" hurricane. The hurricanes are meant for higher rpms and normally a light load. The weedless seems to be a compromise between a standard prop and a hurricane prop when it comes to speed plus it is weedless. That is what I would do prop-wise. Depending on your load and how it's placed in the hull, you may just be asking too much of that setup if you want to go faster.
@@JTgatoring i have the standard 8.5 and run it mostly hunting with heavy loads and does great. Im looking for the fastest i can get and decent handling for fishing and just playing around. Thinking the 8” hurricane might be the right one.
Great content, JT. Any idea of how the Hurricane's handle weeds? And a question I've been waiting to ask: are you still happy with the medium kit and the 13hp Predator? I am getting closer to getting one every time i watch one of your vids. Keep up the great work!
Thank you SluSharkND! I am very pleased with this setup. I think its the best any person could get for a single person ride. The 1436 is light enough to push and move by yourself along with the 13hp being the perfect weight and HP. Once you get to a bigger boat or motor, it becomes to heavy to handle if you get stuck, and the smaller boat and smaller motors don't have enough torque to eat up vegetation. As for the hurricane props, I have not tested them in weeds yet. I will dedicate a day to go play in vegetation and see how props do
@@JTgatoring Thank you for the detailed reply. Always like your content but this really does have a practical side for some of us, so the reviews are much appreciated
So what happened with the American long tail vids. I’m waiting. I actually have the 13hp Backwater kit on a 14’ Tracker. I put Backwaters grab-bar in the boat. It’s the finest shallow water boat I have. Got to tune it right. I use it for my early sight fly fishing trout and carp boat.
It will be coming. I have some more footage lined up and then the American longtails will be up next
Superb
Thank you!
Why you not recommend Alumacraft ??
I just purchased 1436 Crappie Jr.
Poor transom design and bad customer service experience.
@@JTgatoring Thank You.
Happy New Year.
Ya dude that thing was scootin. Could you make a video showing the removing of the shaft and removing the engine? I saw a guy trying to get the shaft in and he made it look hard lol.
Haha yeah I'll be making that video soon. Its not hard getting the shaft in the coupler housing. I'll explain it in the video
JTgatoring you rock man! I’ve got the kit in the buy screen. That’s just the only thing that’s got my nervous to buy it cause if they don’t work I won’t be able to lift the motor and boat separately into my truck bed
@@tylerw1418 Yeah, no worries. I mean the longtail shaft would come out first while the engine is still attached to the boat. That leaves the green coupler housing on the engine. Then take the cotter pin and nut off the gimbal that holds the gimbal rod into the transom bracket, and lift the engine up and out by grabbing the tiller handle and coupler housing or anywhere else on the engine. The only thing left on the boat is the transom bracket and that's clamped on so you could remove that if you wanted too but in your case it doesn't sound like you need to remove that. I should be able to get that video out around the 10th
JTgatoring sounds nice. I look forward to it.
Jt, for the entire two years I have had my motor not once has it just turned on after one crank. Never. If its less than 15 cranks its a great day. If i cold start it and then turn it off it takes even longer. Any advice? is there a Checklist I need for engine maintenence? Watching you do that blew my mind.
Hey Jonas! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. I am no mechanic or an engine guy, so take my words with caution and research them further. A few things to try; a new spark plug, ethanol-free gas, and run it dry after every outing. So the first thing I did was replace the spark plug and then kept the old one as a backup. I then made a switch to only running ethanol-free gas. Before I made the switch, I ran some Seafoam (50/50 mix) totaling about a quarter of a gallon mix which made it run for about 15 minutes at wide-open throttle (WOT). And then when you are done running it for the day, start the engine (make sure everyone and everything is clear of the prop. I do this while I'm in the water at the boat ramp off to the side so I'm not in the way), turn the fuel off on the engine, and let the engine run till it dies. That way it runs the carb out of fuel and it doesn't gunk up. Other than that, I almost always have to choke it to get it to start and then immediately un-choke it. You can also check your idler screw which adjusts your idle. If you're idle is too low it will not want to start and you really have to work it. Another thing is making sure your electrical connections are good so it's not an iffy contact. This is in regards to your safety kill switch and low oil sensor. Make sure everything has a strong connection without corrosion. That should cover the majority of it as long as you haven't modified the engine. Let me know what you find and if this helped. Best of luck and thanks again.
@@JTgatoring Awesome. Gonna try the seafoam, and I had no idea I even had an idler screw, gonna have to find that. Engine does not like to idle at all, I rarely let it idle cuase It has a habit of just shutting off if I let it idle too long. Could be the answer. Thanks for the detailed response, super helpfull. Hopefully that does the trick. love the videos.
@@jonastatu3607 Awesome. I'm glad I mentioned it then. The idler screw is sensitive, so make small adjustments. Once you have it where you want it, use a thread locking agent on it That may be the issue you are having. I had mine rattle loose and cause similar issues, just not as severe as you have described. Let me know if you are able to get it fixed. I'm glad to help and appreciate your kind words
I have 1436 Alumacraft 1436 LT with 11.5HP Honda and the SPS long tail. Love the setup and I’m getting 19mph top speed. Just wondering is bigger prop better for running in vegetation? Can’t say enough good about SPS Kit
Thats a tough one. I run the 8.75" weedless prop if I plan to be in heavy vegetation. Hands down the best prop. If you don't have that prop, get it, but if you can't, my thought is that my engine would rather spin a smaller prop rather than a larger prop. So if you end up getting stuck with a 8.5", then I would probably drop down to a 8" and give it a try first before I jumped up to the 9" but I haven't tested this theory yet.
Is it Pretty easy to put the prop in the boat ,,sitting in the boat,,for bream fishing purposes,up in the cypress,,I would rather the short handle sticking off the back than that long shaft
Yes. If you watch some other videos, you'll be able to see me do it while I'm out in the open water. It will take some getting used to, but it's definitely doable for most people.
@@JTgatoring thanks
Have you ever considered putting a twist throttle on your long tail like a dirt bike? I know my 27hp kills my hand after a while and I was thinking about tossing on a twist.
I have not. Some mud motors have the twist throttle, but I never had an issue with the throttle lever on my swamp runner. For the backwater mud motor kit that is being tested now, that one does make my hand numb after 10 minutes but its not the from the throttle, more from the vibration. It did have a static throttle that I did not like, but I switched it to a squeeze lever and its much better.
It's so fast
Is that mustache fake?
Haha it is not
Do you think that setup would survive rocky shoals? Looking for jet jon alternative.
This is pretty thin aluminum. I wouldn't want to put it up against rocks. Hitting logs makes me pucker... I wouldn't even want to think about rocky shoals
Hey JT, What Pitch is that prop? Might want to try on my Gray Elephant Boat.
Swamp Runner has it listed as a 8.5" x 8" Hurricane Prop so the pitch would be 8
How is the noise on this in the stock configuration and compared to a traditional outboard? I have seen the modified versions with kits and to me, they are too loud.
I agree with you. Once these small engines get modified and have an aftermarket exhaust, they become too loud. I don't think the stock engine is too loud. Especially if you're on plane. Idling around isn't bad either. By no means quiet, but no need or desire to look for ear protection.
@@JTgatoring can't wait for more content since it's summer now!
@@clint4420 The content is being prepared
will this fit a mudskipper kit
I don't know. If the mud skipper kit has a tapered shaft then I think it would
How do I fix mine from wanting to come up out of the water
It would depend on your kit. This is a great place to start - ua-cam.com/video/FAA7j0dVrLU/v-deo.html - describe your setup and I'd be able to help you more
@@JTgatoring I have a 1440 with a 459cc on a swamp runner with the 85” shaft also running the 8-1/2 prop
@@jasonbarnett7900 Tail is probably too short. To try and fix your issue, your pivot point should be as close to the engine as possible. Stick with the 8.5" prop for now and test with that. Then make sure you're center of the wake and see where it is riding. If you're more than a foot in front of the wake, its likely that your tail is too short. You should be running a 100" shaft on that boat.
@@JTgatoring I see, I am in front of the wake so the 100” shaft makes sense so that the angle will be better.
@@jasonbarnett7900 It's not so much the angle, it's more of where the prop is. The location of the prop decreases its ability to bite and hold in the water so it jumps out, and yes, the angle does affect that and it makes the situation worse having the steeper angle. Getting the shaft closer to the wake puts more of the prop in the water so it can grab, and the decreased angle increases its ability to grab so it won't jump or ride out.
Do you have any modes on your motor at all?
No modification to the engine. It is a stock 13hp predator engine. 60349 hemi version.
What mitor
What horse power is the engine?
This engine is a stock, non-modified Harbor Freight Predator 420cc 13hp engine.
ممتاز جدا
How does it cut through vegetation?
I have not put it through any heavy vegitation yet
I'll give it a try when I have a day for playing in the weeds
Brush Mustashe