A lot of excellent points. Wet year versus dry year makes a big difference in liquid and dry. One thing nice about liquid it is right there applied at the planter easier to handle. We do both here on the farm and liquid always shines a little bit better on a normal year. With all the floods we had I think it doesn't matter what you put down it was gone. Have a great day.
I like the liquid on that aspect for when you're just absolutely saturated we did two treatments for the nitrogen this year factor and Instinct one keeps it from going up the other keeps it from going down and with the weather pattern we had it absolutely shined!
I have been considering switching to liquid fertilizers, but it has been hard to figure out the conversions (pounds per acre), and thus figuring out is it worth it financially. I mostly grow hay, so precision isn't as important as row crop. Great video!
It's not that bad once you know the analysis and the weight. Like 6-24-6 is the analysis. 6% nitrogen 24% phosphorus and 6% potassium. It weighs about 11 pounds per gallon so then you take 11 lbs times 6% and that would give you your nitrogen credit and your potassium credit out of each gallon. And then obviously 24% of 11 pounds would give you your pounds per gallon of phosphorus.. On Grassland I probably would just stick with the old broadcaster and just applying what I thought I removed. If you do at high quality alfalfa I would do all the things as far as foliar feeds the guys are trying in the row crops because Alfalfa response to them very well. In Hay Fields you throw a tarp down spread your fertilizer and then lift the tarp up and that you're next cut and you can see did that tarp spot lag behind or not when testing fancy expensive products.
I my self use a broadcast spreader and work it in on last pass tillage. My in-law however is strictly no-till so he just uses his planter dry Fert. boxes to apply all his Fertilizer. corn and soybean ground. I hope to get some soil samples and see were his ground stands and go from there bc he uses the same blend year after year and docent get any better yield.
He doesn't have to come back later and season for more nitrogen credits in corn? What are the ears looking like? Fairly straight not banana-shaped and fairly straight as in not twisting too much? Is he getting a lot of tip back?
You didn't mention most commercial ferts are super high salt. Also they destroy soil biology and as we use more its efficiency drops. Also a bunch of it completely free in the air.
So would you say strip till is more drought proof than liquid? I’m curious to know cause if it don’t make that much of a difference I can try some more no till soybeans.
You could strip-till with liquid as well. I'm still trying to improve my infiltration rates. So for me the strip till helps that until I can get the infiltration rates up higher. When we get an inch of rain overnight it's no big deal but when you get 4 inches in a couple hours and then the next week you get 5 inchs in a day and then you have to go three or five weeks without any rain I need to get my soil in condition to absorb as much of them big rains as possible. I would keep working on no till beans planting into green. And then when the beans turn yellow go out there and get some oats spread so you have some green and roots going into winter. If you have enough fall you might have a potential hay cutting
Hello today I'm just getting into Ag farming I own my own 50' boom sprayer and thinking of going all liquid fertilizer this season on my soybean ground. I have recommendations of 5 gallons per acre of 4-0-12 per my soil samplings. First should I do finish tillage then spray apply or pre tillage? And secondly should I apply say 4 gallons pre plant and add the other 1 gallon foliar when doing my herbicide treatment. Thanks in advance for any thoughts/ recommendations.
At five gallons an acre are you running it through the blue like a normal herbicide with the flat fan nozzle or are you going to use a drop hose I don't know you are climate and soil and weather patterns and all that stuff to say do it before or after tillage but I can say is I would absolutely make a drop hose setup like guys use for corn and side-dress the soybeans with that so what's banded right at the base of the plant Foliar is an extremely efficient way to feed a plant, but just make sure the products that you are using are designed for it It would be worth trying a foliar pass with some zinc, copper, Boron, calcium, and phosphorus If you get a micro pack from your local retailer that has zinc in it and that strip gets a little more green there's a good chance it was from the zinc. The beans are tough because they don't really give you that big response to an input like corn does. But if you're in a climate that can grow good soybeans there has to be some reward for micromanaging them
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 My 1st thought was I was going to use my conventional sprayer turning the pressure down to like 15 pounds so it does not atomize my mixture is much and apply pre plant just before my finish till pass. And then spray along with my herbicide for a foliar boost
Foliar feeding soybeans for a yield bump it's pretty tricky Foliar feeding soybeans to replace broadcasting a bunch of dry fertilizer guys seem to have better luck that way I would like to try one soybean field drilled versus row crop and figure out a foliar program Zinc phosphorus calcium and boron used to be a big deal when raising high-quality alfalfa and guys have shown some research in soybeans that even though their soil test show good NSYNC that applying a foliar zinc gives a response
I remember looking up the stats on the sure-k and unless im crazy i believe it had more nitrogen than k and the numbers had a point in front of it. I thought what a joke unless a guy pissed a little on as a pop up. I think the banding of dry P and K with a strip till unit is about the best bang for the buck like you do. I think im going to use some dry planter boxes with some dry knives on the chisel plow and try to fashion some sort of strip till. Trying to get dry fertilizer banded deep enough with the planter openers doesn't work very well. I didn't get any rye in last fall so the strip till might be a good band aid.
That's a really good idea! I thought there was a video or some guy out of Brazil or South Africa that had a ripper and he just put the dry boxes from a planter on his Ripper. Ground Drive off of the gauge wheels
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 I was looking at the montag carts and the gandy boxes but like you said there a ton of money for what ya get. I saw a new gandy box on auctiontime but i forgot about it. I beleive it went in the two grand range. If i get something cobbled together i will make a video of it.
@Tyler George My dad bought what was called a blessant i beleive back in the early seventies that was basically a tool bar with a narrow ripper shank that was designed to go shallow and pull the planter behind it. He took the shanks off and mounted it to his AC 600 planter but never finished it and ended up backing it in the fence row and going back to tillage. He used to do paraquat and atrazine and i think he got sick of being made fun of no tilling back then. I looked at using that for strip tilling but its been sitting in the ground so long it needs tires ,hydraulic hoses ......... So i figured the chisel would be easier. The only reason i want to do it is to get some potash down deep for when it turns dry and as a bandaid for the fields i dont manage the no till correctly on in the heavy clay soils.
@Tyler George I started out puting it all on with the dry fertilizer boxes on the planter but then i started broadcasting it all half ahead of planting and then top dressing some urea or esn. All my soils are really high in phosphorus so i don't worry about that so much other than a little starter. Last year i put 150 lbs of a dap, urea, potash even blend and then top dressed treated urea and ams. With back to back years of drought i like the idea of deep banding plus the fact that this year was quite a bit worse drought wise than last year but i got 130 bpa verses about 90 last year. I thing the banding with the planter made the difference.
We buy bags of fertilizer do you not have any bags? Also watch this guy dissolve urea granules to make liquid fertilizerua-cam.com/video/tpilmprd_pc/v-deo.html
For dry on my corn Acres last year would have been 350 lb of urea, 50 lb phosphorus 50 lbs potassium and 60 lb of sulfur. On 330 acres. Not to sound lazy but I am not handling that in 1 ton shuttle bags. Way too easy to just leave the wagon out by the road and let the coop top it off or when using liquid they just top the tanks off in the yard and then I can go for a couple days. Goodlink! Pretty interesting.
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 and I think people with one tonne bags are spoiled.me and my dad fill the spreader with 25kg (55 pound) bags. Last year we bought 50 tonnes of fertilizer all in small bags because we have no loader
@@JamesOBrien2253 lol. I did that for a couple springs when we were starting out. I like my strongman workouts but man them bags killed production. 50 tons hats off to you!
A lot of excellent points. Wet year versus dry year makes a big difference in liquid and dry. One thing nice about liquid it is right there applied at the planter easier to handle. We do both here on the farm and liquid always shines a little bit better on a normal year. With all the floods we had I think it doesn't matter what you put down it was gone. Have a great day.
I like the liquid on that aspect for when you're just absolutely saturated we did two treatments for the nitrogen this year factor and Instinct one keeps it from going up the other keeps it from going down and with the weather pattern we had it absolutely shined!
Good things to consider! Thanks for the info......
Lots of food for thought thinking of some sort of y drops this year if I get it built.
I have been considering switching to liquid fertilizers, but it has been hard to figure out the conversions (pounds per acre), and thus figuring out is it worth it financially. I mostly grow hay, so precision isn't as important as row crop. Great video!
It's not that bad once you know the analysis and the weight. Like 6-24-6 is the analysis. 6% nitrogen 24% phosphorus and 6% potassium.
It weighs about 11 pounds per gallon so then you take 11 lbs times 6% and that would give you your nitrogen credit and your potassium credit out of each gallon. And then obviously 24% of 11 pounds would give you your pounds per gallon of phosphorus..
On Grassland I probably would just stick with the old broadcaster and just applying what I thought I removed. If you do at high quality alfalfa I would do all the things as far as foliar feeds the guys are trying in the row crops because Alfalfa response to them very well. In Hay Fields you throw a tarp down spread your fertilizer and then lift the tarp up and that you're next cut and you can see did that tarp spot lag behind or not when testing fancy expensive products.
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 Thanks for the info!!!
I my self use a broadcast spreader and work it in on last pass tillage. My in-law however is strictly no-till so he just uses his planter dry Fert. boxes to apply all his Fertilizer. corn and soybean ground. I hope to get some soil samples and see were his ground stands and go from there bc he uses the same blend year after year and docent get any better yield.
He doesn't have to come back later and season for more nitrogen credits in corn? What are the ears looking like? Fairly straight not banana-shaped and fairly straight as in not twisting too much? Is he getting a lot of tip back?
You didn't mention most commercial ferts are super high salt. Also they destroy soil biology and as we use more its efficiency drops. Also a bunch of it completely free in the air.
Lol. Saving some of that radical talk for other videos!
I put a good chunk of my nutrients down with planter banding it all (30 ish gallon per acre). Then put more nitrogen on later with sprayer or spreader
Surface band or 2x2? 1 guys here is trying out surface banding a couple inches to the side and so far he is liking it!
Surface band try to run no more than half 10-34-0 and it seems the nitrogen and sulfur really helps pull the 10-30 down
So would you say strip till is more drought proof than liquid? I’m curious to know cause if it don’t make that much of a difference I can try some more no till soybeans.
You could strip-till with liquid as well. I'm still trying to improve my infiltration rates. So for me the strip till helps that until I can get the infiltration rates up higher. When we get an inch of rain overnight it's no big deal but when you get 4 inches in a couple hours and then the next week you get 5 inchs in a day and then you have to go three or five weeks without any rain I need to get my soil in condition to absorb as much of them big rains as possible.
I would keep working on no till beans planting into green. And then when the beans turn yellow go out there and get some oats spread so you have some green and roots going into winter. If you have enough fall you might have a potential hay cutting
Hello today
I'm just getting into Ag farming
I own my own 50' boom sprayer and thinking of going all liquid fertilizer this season on my soybean ground. I have recommendations of 5 gallons per acre of 4-0-12 per my soil samplings. First should I do finish tillage then spray apply or pre tillage? And secondly should I apply say 4 gallons pre plant and add the other 1 gallon foliar when doing my herbicide treatment. Thanks in advance for any thoughts/ recommendations.
At five gallons an acre are you running it through the blue like a normal herbicide with the flat fan nozzle or are you going to use a drop hose
I don't know you are climate and soil and weather patterns and all that stuff to say do it before or after tillage but I can say is I would absolutely make a drop hose setup like guys use for corn and side-dress the soybeans with that so what's banded right at the base of the plant
Foliar is an extremely efficient way to feed a plant, but just make sure the products that you are using are designed for it
It would be worth trying a foliar pass with some zinc, copper, Boron, calcium, and phosphorus
If you get a micro pack from your local retailer that has zinc in it and that strip gets a little more green there's a good chance it was from the zinc.
The beans are tough because they don't really give you that big response to an input like corn does. But if you're in a climate that can grow good soybeans there has to be some reward for micromanaging them
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 My 1st thought was I was going to use my conventional sprayer turning the pressure down to like 15 pounds so it does not atomize my mixture is much and apply pre plant just before my finish till pass. And then spray along with my herbicide for a foliar boost
Foliar feeding soybeans for a yield bump it's pretty tricky
Foliar feeding soybeans to replace broadcasting a bunch of dry fertilizer guys seem to have better luck that way
I would like to try one soybean field drilled versus row crop and figure out a foliar program
Zinc phosphorus calcium and boron used to be a big deal when raising high-quality alfalfa and guys have shown some research in soybeans that even though their soil test show good NSYNC that applying a foliar zinc gives a response
I remember looking up the stats on the sure-k and unless im crazy i believe it had more nitrogen than k and the numbers had a point in front of it. I thought what a joke unless a guy pissed a little on as a pop up. I think the banding of dry P and K with a strip till unit is about the best bang for the buck like you do. I think im going to use some dry planter boxes with some dry knives on the chisel plow and try to fashion some sort of strip till. Trying to get dry fertilizer banded deep enough with the planter openers doesn't work very well. I didn't get any rye in last fall so the strip till might be a good band aid.
That's a really good idea! I thought there was a video or some guy out of Brazil or South Africa that had a ripper and he just put the dry boxes from a planter on his Ripper. Ground Drive off of the gauge wheels
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 I was looking at the montag carts and the gandy boxes but like you said there a ton of money for what ya get. I saw a new gandy box on auctiontime but i forgot about it. I beleive it went in the two grand range. If i get something cobbled together i will make a video of it.
@Tyler George My dad bought what was called a blessant i beleive back in the early seventies that was basically a tool bar with a narrow ripper shank that was designed to go shallow and pull the planter behind it. He took the shanks off and mounted it to his AC 600 planter but never finished it and ended up backing it in the fence row and going back to tillage. He used to do paraquat and atrazine and i think he got sick of being made fun of no tilling back then. I looked at using that for strip tilling but its been sitting in the ground so long it needs tires ,hydraulic hoses ......... So i figured the chisel would be easier. The only reason i want to do it is to get some potash down deep for when it turns dry and as a bandaid for the fields i dont manage the no till correctly on in the heavy clay soils.
@Tyler George I started out puting it all on with the dry fertilizer boxes on the planter but then i started broadcasting it all half ahead of planting and then top dressing some urea or esn. All my soils are really high in phosphorus so i don't worry about that so much other than a little starter. Last year i put 150 lbs of a dap, urea, potash even blend and then top dressed treated urea and ams. With back to back years of drought i like the idea of deep banding plus the fact that this year was quite a bit worse drought wise than last year but i got 130 bpa verses about 90 last year. I thing the banding with the planter made the difference.
@Tyler George I think we think alike. Lol
We buy bags of fertilizer do you not have any bags? Also watch this guy dissolve urea granules to make liquid fertilizerua-cam.com/video/tpilmprd_pc/v-deo.html
For dry on my corn Acres last year would have been 350 lb of urea, 50 lb phosphorus 50 lbs potassium and 60 lb of sulfur. On 330 acres. Not to sound lazy but I am not handling that in 1 ton shuttle bags. Way too easy to just leave the wagon out by the road and let the coop top it off or when using liquid they just top the tanks off in the yard and then I can go for a couple days.
Goodlink! Pretty interesting.
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 and I think people with one tonne bags are spoiled.me and my dad fill the spreader with 25kg (55 pound) bags. Last year we bought 50 tonnes of fertilizer all in small bags because we have no loader
@@JamesOBrien2253 lol. I did that for a couple springs when we were starting out. I like my strongman workouts but man them bags killed production. 50 tons hats off to you!