I've done a handful of segmented bowls in the past but admittedly, stopped doing so because they're so tedious and time consuming. Your video was extremely well done and you've given me a number of ideas on how to easily begin doing segmented pieces again. Great job...thanks, John
Smart, humorous and informative. And I'm not laughing (out loud) at your out takes, I'm laughing with your out takes. Who hasn't pulled a board off the drill press using drill bit levitation? G.
Thanks Marius, I learned a lot from you today. Also great that you had the original design linked too, so now I understand the whole developmental sequence.
Wow.. I am truly bummed that it took me this long to find your channel. This is absolute top quality content. Your ingenuity, critical thinking, and problem solving skills are inspiring. I can't wait until my son is old enough that I can share your videos with him.
1:57 is so satisfying. I love it when things fit. Matthias and you have inspired me to start woodworking. Thank you for all your hard work on your videos! (You could make a video about all the behind the scenes work. Camera setup, editing etc.)
I'm a little late at this video. Thanks for the post Marius. I've already watched all of Jerry Bennet's videos, they're a great source of information and inspiration for anyone wanting to get into segment turning. Thanks also for your free templates and files. Regards and best wishes, Tony.
Haven't seen your videos before, but will watch more! Great project and well explained. And for the first time ever, a woodworking video made me laugh. Love the outtakes!
Great build. I got behind watching because of the flood here in Baton Rouge, LA nice to come back and have a couple from you. We got lucky and didn't get any water inside but, many friends not so lucky.
yes another super video. the wedgie sled storage don't give up, you could consider a deeper upper channel say 25 mm and 10mm lower. So rather than sliding in from the side, as you approach the cabinet from the front, slip the upper edge under the 25 mm lip, and then drop the bottom edge in the 10 mm trough and poof your done. The only other consideration as you might guess is the overall deck length, is short enough to slip in there and long enough to not fall out. I bet you knew that. Great video keep'm commin... I really enjoy your channel...
Great video. A forstner bit works great on plastics because it doesn't have a spiral helix and can't turn your work into a propeller. Enjoy your out takes!
Great video and idea to make the miters accurate. However there is one important "feature", 6:30 - when you set the 90 degrees, the jig guarantees that the sum of both cuts would be 90, however the individual angles might be not exact. To exaggerate a bit, you could as well set one to 30, other to 60 and they would still perfectly fit for picture frame.
Hi Marius,recently made the sled as per your video,it's great ! I am going to make your adjustable wedgie but for the first trial I used a 30 degree set square.It was very accurate. I then figured that if you clamp the sled vertically on edge , you can use a digital inclinometer (wixey) to set the arms. Zero on the lower arm and then set the upper arm with the wixey exactly and clamp. It works with any angle and you can set your adjustable wedgies by putting them between the arms to calibrate them and glue them to the right angle. Should cut down on the trials to get them right. Love your videos thanks for all you do.
Hi Marius, Thanks for an excellent clear and easy to follow video. The sled will be my next project which I'm sure will be more accurate than my mitre saw. Thanks also for the free wedgie plans, very useful. Please keep up your brilliant videos.
your videos are always top notch. Great content and well thought out projects. I hope you channel continues to grow! The outtakes are also one of my favorite parts. You do great work, keep it up!
Hi Marius - Your videos are great! I enjoy watching them. In regards to routing MDF or any material - to help prevent the MDF leaving a 'bur' or chipping at the top from routing, you can use a compression cutter in the CNC. The cutter cuts down and up. This is most important when routing material such as melamine. Keep the videos coming!
Nicely built Marius. I just wish I had room for a table saw , or perhaps I don't , I have too many projects on my list already ! Great video production too. All the best, Jim.
Really cool! One thought on using the printed template: no need to trim that first edge with scissors, so long as it's parallel to the edge of the paper. One may achieve more accuracy more quickly that way. Anyway, awesome project!!
Marius, another great video! A little insight on your CNC bit...the bit you are using is incorrect. MDF CNCs very smooth. Look into the correct bit for the right material! Will save you a lot of time and also produce better results.
The problem is that you are using an spiral upcut router bit. While they are good at clearing chips (which you don't have, since last time I tried MDF just turned into ugly dust ;) ), they will rip the surface. Get a straight cut or spiral downcut bit.
I'm looping back thru all the wedgie sled videos I watched a year or so ago and in rewatching this could you have just come up with a way to attach the sled to your sliding table? It already has precise guides on it.
Very nice and smooth build! But why did you change the shape of one fens to make room for wider stock? You won't have a problem with it if you cut it on both outsides of the fenses if you know what I mean. The angle of the stock will be the same and you can use every size of stock.
he did it to get both passes on the front side of the fences, instead of having to use his hands to grip it tightly against the back side of the rear fence.
Nice idea with the adjustable wedge. BTW As far as I understand, only the second fence (the one closest to the blade at approx 9:30 in your video) needs to have consistent thickness along its length, as that's the one where you cut on the face that's opposite to the face used to set the angle with a wedge. It's also a good idea to cut small slots (instead of holes) in the fences, as it allows you to adjust the fences forward/backward to keep them close to the blade (but not being cut), regardless of angle you're using.
When you use the sled for segments only, then only one fence needs to have consistent thickness. But in "miter sled mode" I also use the other side of the front fence and therefor it also needs to have consistent thickness.
Good point. It doesn't hurt to try to get them both right anyway I guess! When I made the sled I ended up cutting enough material for four fences, and chose the best two.
I'm sure Marius just forgot to say, but it is a mistake I've heard on other sites. This works for a segmented bowl, you are removing the surfaces, so you don't have to align the edges of the cut pieces. But, for a mitred picture frame this is not good enough. You have to be able to line up both edges of the mitres on each the four pieces, as well as the mitre surfaces. The only way to do that is to accurately align the fences at 45° to the cut. It is clear that if you cut at two different angles across a parallel piece, the cuts will be of different lengths, it will therefore be impossible to match both inside and outside edges. William Ng's sled is aligned to one thou over about two feet, or accurate to one four-hundredth of a degree, roughly.
Quick tip if you cut a slot or slide in MDF that will have a lot of use, cover the surface with super glue it will soak straight in and make it hard as nails.
Thank you for a great demonstration of how to make a wedgie sled, easy and affordable. I do have one questions if I may ask. The piece of wood that you would use to cut each wedgie what are the measurements you use?
I've done a handful of segmented bowls in the past but admittedly, stopped doing so because they're so tedious and time consuming. Your video was extremely well done and you've given me a number of ideas on how to easily begin doing segmented pieces again. Great job...thanks, John
Bro from a mexican in canada .bro your an amazing carpenter and bright engeneer .my respect .
Smart, humorous and informative. And I'm not laughing (out loud) at your out takes, I'm laughing with your out takes. Who hasn't pulled a board off the drill press using drill bit levitation? G.
by far the simplest and easiest guy to follow, awesome job and great explanation
Thanks Marius, I learned a lot from you today. Also great that you had the original design linked too, so now I understand the whole developmental sequence.
Very nice. That little ramp is genius too!
Thanks, I’ve watched several wegie sled videos, this is one of the best.
Wow.. I am truly bummed that it took me this long to find your channel. This is absolute top quality content. Your ingenuity, critical thinking, and problem solving skills are inspiring.
I can't wait until my son is old enough that I can share your videos with him.
The fact that you randomly have "magic" in your videos cracks me up.
Great build and I always look forward to the outtakes.
Thank you Marius. I appreciate your generosity of time and ingenuity. Take good care, Gord
1:57 is so satisfying. I love it when things fit. Matthias and you have inspired me to start woodworking. Thank you for all your hard work on your videos! (You could make a video about all the behind the scenes work. Camera setup, editing etc.)
I'm a little late at this video. Thanks for the post Marius. I've already watched all of Jerry Bennet's videos, they're a great source of information and inspiration for anyone wanting to get into segment turning. Thanks also for your free templates and files. Regards and best wishes, Tony.
love the outtakes mate, always amusing. Great project as well
Haven't seen your videos before, but will watch more! Great project and well explained. And for the first time ever, a woodworking video made me laugh. Love the outtakes!
Great build. I got behind watching because of the flood here in Baton Rouge, LA nice to come back and have a couple from you. We got lucky and didn't get any water inside but, many friends not so lucky.
Love the way you think and work. Always a pleasure to watch your videos.
very clever video editing and of course brilliant engineering
yes another super video. the wedgie sled storage don't give up, you could consider a deeper upper channel say 25 mm and 10mm lower. So rather than sliding in from the side, as you approach the cabinet from the front, slip the upper edge under the 25 mm lip, and then drop the bottom edge in the 10 mm trough and poof your done. The only other consideration as you might guess is the overall deck length, is short enough to slip in there and long enough to not fall out. I bet you knew that. Great video keep'm commin...
I really enjoy your channel...
Great video! - You exhibit exceptional talent for fabrication and design.
Very helpful and well presented. Nice to see a version working with a european style sliding chariot table saw / combi machine.
Really like your cut off ramp. I made a drop in zero clearance insert for my Craftsman table saw but I like your idea much better!
Your a great diy videographer. And funny outtakes
Great video. A forstner bit works great on plastics because it doesn't have a spiral helix and can't turn your work into a propeller. Enjoy your out takes!
Great video and idea to make the miters accurate. However there is one important "feature", 6:30 - when you set the 90 degrees, the jig guarantees that the sum of both cuts would be 90, however the individual angles might be not exact. To exaggerate a bit, you could as well set one to 30, other to 60 and they would still perfectly fit for picture frame.
Great video editing! I love the caliper display insertions. Well done.
Great build Marius! I really enjoyed the video production too.
Thanks Carl!
Hi Marius,recently made the sled as per your video,it's great ! I am going to make your adjustable wedgie but for the first trial I used a 30 degree set square.It was very accurate. I then figured that if you clamp the sled vertically on edge , you can use a digital inclinometer (wixey) to set the arms. Zero on the lower arm and then set the upper arm with the wixey exactly and clamp. It works with any angle and you can set your adjustable wedgies by putting them between the arms to calibrate them and glue them to the right angle. Should cut down on the trials to get them right. Love your videos thanks for all you do.
that's a pretty awesome idea to set the angle. I'll keep that in mind for when I have a one of these inclinometers.
Oooh...I really like that storage bracket. I'm gonna make one of those for my small crosscut sled!
Great job and real easy to understand. I will definitly make one. Thanks for sharing
Hi Marius,
Thanks for an excellent clear and easy to follow video. The sled will be my next project which I'm sure will be more accurate than my mitre saw. Thanks also for the free wedgie plans, very useful. Please keep up your brilliant videos.
Great video. Great project. Very inspiring. Want to go out to the shop and create something. Keep it up.
Yet another very good vid. It's a joy to watch what you do and informative.Even the out takes are good. Much envy from here in the UK.
Very good video! And I love your "bloopers" section!
"the convenient storage place" idea is highly practical.
Thank you for the outtakes made me feel better
Well done Marius, great instruction and explanations. Also...I love the outtakes!
Just amazing... You will surely go far with your passion my friend, you are one of my top woodworkers 👍
Best video skills so far. Nice job.
Outakes were really funny, especially the last one.
Thanks for sharing!
I love the outtakes! That's pretty much how it always goes in my workshop. Of course, it's easy to edit that out on a UA-cam video.
Very nice. Thanks. The right video to the right time!
Nice job. Just getting my lathe up and running so this will be handy. Scott
Thank you Marius, I was looking for something like this for a while
All your outtakes are excellent along with good builds
Thanks
still impresively clever. thanks for another good tut
Just Brilliant! You made my day with this project. Off to the shop.
Thanks!
Love your work Marius.
Nice precise work on that fixture Marius
your videos are always top notch. Great content and well thought out projects. I hope you channel continues to grow! The outtakes are also one of my favorite parts. You do great work, keep it up!
Great video Marius! I really enjoyed the making of the jig! A lot to learn from it!
👌 muito bom seus vídeos,estou aqui no Brasil sempre acompanhando, parabéns.
Excellent video once again. Thanks for the template
Well done! I'm pretty sure you thought of everything. Subscribed and will be building this design.
Hi Marius - Your videos are great! I enjoy watching them.
In regards to routing MDF or any material - to help prevent the MDF leaving a 'bur' or chipping at the top from routing, you can use a compression cutter in the CNC. The cutter cuts down and up. This is most important when routing material such as melamine.
Keep the videos coming!
Thanks for the tip.
Nicely built Marius. I just wish I had room for a table saw , or perhaps I don't , I have too many projects on my list already ! Great video production too. All the best, Jim.
So many great ideas in this video and I admire your decision to keep the riving knife in place. :-)
Top notch build Marius, very enjoyable video to watch too!
Great video and great jig!! Thanks for the outtakes too...Makes me feel a little better about my (many) mistakes =)
great project and amusing as always
Like your last out take. We've all been there. But great idea, I will try.
At 8:21, why did you cut the line on the paper? I think it would be easier just to use the original edge of the paper.
Great video. I noticed that hi tech looking wood plane you were using. Would you be good enough to let me know the make of it please. Many thanks.
It's a RALI 220 Evolution plane
@@MariusHornberger Many thanks
Great video. Shows in detail the whole process. Like!
marius, you are a great teacher, Thanks
Well done. Impressive young man.
Interesting table-saw with that carriage moving the piece. very nice.
Great video, love the out takes. I made one of these for my small bandsaw
Great design. Thanks for sharing.
Good design!
Cool sled. Thanks for explaining so thoroughly.
nice video my friend! big hug from Colombia!
Good to see a new video. Keep 'em coming.
Awesome video! You must put in so much time recording and editing these clips. Thank you very much. I learned a lot watching :)
Nice work Marius
Really cool! One thought on using the printed template: no need to trim that first edge with scissors, so long as it's parallel to the edge of the paper. One may achieve more accuracy more quickly that way. Anyway, awesome project!!
Hahahaha, your outtakes this one were hilarious. I have the problem of the plastic getting pulled up all the time as well
Excellent video. Bravo and thanks. 🤗
Really nice and l know it will be useful for me in time. Outtakes like it...........
Muy Buen Video.
*¡¡¡ BUEN TRABAJO !!!*
Absolutely wonderful - thanks
Marius, another great video! A little insight on your CNC bit...the bit you are using is incorrect. MDF CNCs very smooth. Look into the correct bit for the right material! Will save you a lot of time and also produce better results.
Thanks. I'll try a better suited bit next time. I probably already have the right one, but was too lazy to change it...
yes, you are correct about the bit.
The problem is that you are using an spiral upcut router bit. While they are good at clearing chips (which you don't have, since last time I tried MDF just turned into ugly dust ;) ), they will rip the surface. Get a straight cut or spiral downcut bit.
+superdau that is part of the problem but he is using a bit that is meant for metal..
when i do mdf i use a straight double flute. btw always make sure they are sharp lol.
I'm looping back thru all the wedgie sled videos I watched a year or so ago and in rewatching this could you have just come up with a way to attach the sled to your sliding table? It already has precise guides on it.
Excellent work, as per usual.
Brilliant work.
such a genius
Top notch Marius!
Very nice and smooth build! But why did you change the shape of one fens to make room for wider stock? You won't have a problem with it if you cut it on both outsides of the fenses if you know what I mean. The angle of the stock will be the same and you can use every size of stock.
he did it to get both passes on the front side of the fences, instead of having to use his hands to grip it tightly against the back side of the rear fence.
I love your shop layout, and very nice video as well! You've earned my subscription :-)
Nice idea with the adjustable wedge.
BTW As far as I understand, only the second fence (the one closest to the blade at approx 9:30 in your video) needs to have consistent thickness along its length, as that's the one where you cut on the face that's opposite to the face used to set the angle with a wedge.
It's also a good idea to cut small slots (instead of holes) in the fences, as it allows you to adjust the fences forward/backward to keep them close to the blade (but not being cut), regardless of angle you're using.
When you use the sled for segments only, then only one fence needs to have consistent thickness. But in "miter sled mode" I also use the other side of the front fence and therefor it also needs to have consistent thickness.
Good point. It doesn't hurt to try to get them both right anyway I guess! When I made the sled I ended up cutting enough material for four fences, and chose the best two.
Very interesting and helpful. Thanks.
Very well done.
I'm sure Marius just forgot to say, but it is a mistake I've heard on other sites.
This works for a segmented bowl, you are removing the surfaces, so you don't have to align the edges of the cut pieces.
But, for a mitred picture frame this is not good enough. You have to be able to line up both edges of the mitres on each the four pieces, as well as the mitre surfaces. The only way to do that is to accurately align the fences at 45° to the cut.
It is clear that if you cut at two different angles across a parallel piece, the cuts will be of different lengths, it will therefore be impossible to match both inside and outside edges.
William Ng's sled is aligned to one thou over about two feet, or accurate to one four-hundredth of a degree, roughly.
Quite smart!! Thanks for sharing
Nicely Done!
Really like this. Going to make one.
Quick tip if you cut a slot or slide in MDF that will have a lot of use, cover the surface with super glue it will soak straight in and make it hard as nails.
Thank you for a great demonstration of how to make a wedgie sled, easy and affordable. I do have one questions if I may ask. The piece of wood that you would use to cut each wedgie what are the measurements you use?
Very slick Marius.
THX - schöne Ideen & Umsetzung!