Ive been bringing my wort down to 35~40C (?~? F) after 60 minute boil in the kettle and letting it sit over night,covered, then pitching yeast and having no issues.
I have also had good luck letting wort sit overnight either to cool or waiting for my yeast to be ready. No ill effects as long as things stay sanitary. Cheers! -Mike
The brew strong gents have said that the rapid cool down is best practice in case your boil has not driven off enough of the dms precursor effectively cutting down the time available for sms to convert to dms. If this is a concern you could lengthen your boil time prior to whirlpool. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching! I agree with those statements. I have done no chill a handful of time and have never had a DMS issue. I think that a good vigorous boil is key. I haven't tried this with a predominantly pils based grain bill yet so who knows my success might be style dependent. -Mike
Hey I am one of those Aussies mentioned and not only do I hot cube but also do a hopstand and cube at 80C with no issue so far, I also heard of a guy who does 76C Also I have left for weeks. Not sure on the limits on these practices, would like to know. Cheers guys 🍻
I would like to talk about the creation of DMS during the whirlpool. If you plan to do a long hop stand/whirlpool. How do you avoid the fact that Dms will be produced down to 140 degrees? Do u counteract with a longer boil? R u expecting that Dms will be fermented out during primary? It's a question that has been bothering me a lot...thanks! Great video!
Hi, great video! I usually put the chiller in the wort the last 10 minutes of the boil to disinfect. Will having the chiller in there prevent whirlpooling? I will be using a long plastic spoon as I don't have a pump. Would steeping the hops in a cheesecloth also work?
My chiller is in the wort at the time I add the hops. You don't necessarily need to swirl the wort. Time and temperature are the keys. Don't need a cheesecloth either. Cheers!
little question... does the 20 minutes of whirlpooling will affect the IBU (since it's hot longer). I'm talking about the 60min + whirlpool hop addition.
Yes it certainly does. So you do sort of need to take that into account for your total IBU. As long as the temp of the wort remains above 185F you are getting quite a bit of isomerization. Of course, you are still getting some under that temp, but the rate begins to decline more dramatically under that temp. Some pro brews are made entirely with a whirpool addition blast. I haven't tried it that way yet but its a fun thing to get into. You do get a different aroma profile too. Even though you get some additional bitterness during the whirlpool you aren't boiling off the aromatics either. So WP hopping gives you a different method for getting some IBUs and a different aroma addition too. CHEERS! -Mike
allright - trying first NEIPA soon + first Whirpool too (so much hop). Thanks for the video ! I'll calculate my IBY like if I was boiling for 70 minutes instead of 60 minutes (for a 20 minutes whirlpool). I guess it would give an good idea of the final IBU.
helpful stuff guys, I've got a NEIPA recipe that calls for 2oz hop addition at flame out and then another 4.5oz at whirlpool at 170 degree's F for 15min. My question is, should I use my immersion chiller to bring from boil to 170 quickly, or just let sit and potentially stir/whirlpool till I get to 170 and then continue to whirlpool for another 15 min after adding my hops, and then use the chiller to get to pitch temp? It also calls for a 30min boil, not 60, which seems like it could affect how sanitary the wort is. I do brew indoors in a clean room. thanks for any help you can provide.
I am brewing a NEIPA this weekend. I plan to use my chiller to bring the wort's temp down a bit and then add my 'whirlpool' hops and let them site for 30 mins before chilling to fermentation temperatures. I am siphoning my wort out of my kettle and have a fine mesh (sanitized) bag to put over my siphon to keep most of the trub out of my fermentation vessel. For the boil, I would boil for 60 minutes and if you have a hop addition that is called for to be added with 30 minutes to go in the boil...add it with 30 minutes to go in the boil. 30 minutes is enough time to sterilize the wort, but I would want to do a full 60 minutes to get some stronger malt flavors in the wort which come from a longer boil. Hope that helps. - John
I'm going to use my drill on a low screwdriver setting with a paddle attached (somehow) for 5 minutes after a hop stand. Hopefully that will help any particulate to settle out before transferring to the fermenter.
Brew Dudes about 50/50 satisfaction with the spoon on the end of a power tool whirlpool. I definitely left a lot of particle mush behind when I transferred the wort, but I can do better next time with a midification or 6! Learned a ton of things from tonight's session of gross homebrew incompetence. Just editing the vid for it now. You can check out in a day or so by searching for "homebrew buffonery". My philosophy is learn from my mistakes or, more accurately, forget about the body of knowledge already there until after the mistakes are made then look up why it went wrong. Happy days.
Thinking about whirlpooling for the first time for an upcoming brew day and I was wondering.... would if I had a separate pot of water that was heated to say 170 and I whirlpooled in that for 20min before flame out, then add that mixture to the pot during the wort chilling phase? Thoughts? I've always been under the impression to chill the wort as fast as possible. Maybe separate whirlpooling is a good compromise?
Chilling the wort as fast as possible has always been a misleading statement. But we can discuss that elsewhere. As for steeping your whirlpool hops in water... well you can but then you'd be diluting your beer when you add it. Of course you can take the time and effort to adjust for that if you like (gravity, bitterness, boil time etc etc). I think there is something to be said for the chemistry of the hops in the wort rather than water. I don't know anyone that really reports good things from a hop tea essentially. I think you might get more vegetal stuff from your hops as well as the oils in water vs. wort. You should do a split batch and report the results. Run off half your finished wort to chill and add your water/whirlpool. Then whirlpool directly in the kettle the other half.
That's some good feedback, I might try that! Thanks. What are your thoughts on utilizing a muslin bag or nylon bag during a whirlpool? Or wouldit better to just let the hops free float. I feel like the lower temps will cause the majority of the hops float rather than sink to the bottom and collect in the trub. I like to try and leave all my trub behind if I can
I've never carefully done a side by side, but here are my thoughts on bags. When I use a bag I like it to be fairly large. That way as the hops swell there is plenty of wort circulation through the bag. Of course, I am talking about during a boil but not a whirlpool. I can't say I have really seen an issue with hops in a bag to give me concern I wasn't getting good utilization. For a whirlpool, to ensure they are in the wort and not floating on top, I'd put some weight in the sack. I have extra stainless fittings I use. I also have a cup of glass marbles that I use from time to time. I'd say go for those. -Mike
On a side not, I don't think that temperature effects the hops floating or not. But the boil is a built in 'stirrer' and a whirlpool steep is not. That of course is unless you are actually actively pumping the wort during the whirlpool... if that's the case maybe you don't need the weighted sack. It might help avoid it getting sucked into the outlet via the pumps action. -Mike
Any temp is good for a hop stand post boil. Some may say you want to be above 140F at least, as its still sanitizing a bit at that temp. As long as you are pitching good active yeast you shouldn't have a problem with hops and contamination. Many brewers are experimenting with different stands at different temps. I prefer to do it right at flame out, so I suppose the temp is just under boiling and declining. You can put the lid on anytime after the boil ends. You are no longer volatilizing the DMS in the wort at that point (assuming you've had a vigorous enough boil to drive it all out prior to flame out). When I do no chill brewing I've never had a problem with lidding it up right at the end of the boil and walking away.
Exactly what was looking for on whirlpooling. Thanks guys!
Helped me a lot guys, thanks. This Neipa business seems to demand the whirlpool!
Yeah, it does. Thanks, Pat. - John
Ive been bringing my wort down to 35~40C (?~? F) after 60 minute boil in the kettle and letting it sit over night,covered, then pitching yeast and having no issues.
I have also had good luck letting wort sit overnight either to cool or waiting for my yeast to be ready. No ill effects as long as things stay sanitary. Cheers! -Mike
finally a good explanation !
Thanks. -Mike
Great chaps. Jolly good.
The brew strong gents have said that the rapid cool down is best practice in case your boil has not driven off enough of the dms precursor effectively cutting down the time available for sms to convert to dms. If this is a concern you could lengthen your boil time prior to whirlpool. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching! I agree with those statements. I have done no chill a handful of time and have never had a DMS issue. I think that a good vigorous boil is key. I haven't tried this with a predominantly pils based grain bill yet so who knows my success might be style dependent. -Mike
Hey I am one of those Aussies mentioned and not only do I hot cube but also do a hopstand and cube at 80C with no issue so far, I also heard of a guy who does 76C
Also I have left for weeks.
Not sure on the limits on these practices, would like to know.
Cheers guys 🍻
Cheers - thanks for the comment. Not sure on the limits either. I could add it to the list. - John
I would like to talk about the creation of DMS during the whirlpool. If you plan to do a long hop stand/whirlpool. How do you avoid the fact that Dms will be produced down to 140 degrees? Do u counteract with a longer boil? R u expecting that Dms will be fermented out during primary? It's a question that has been bothering me a lot...thanks! Great video!
Yep brew on boys. cheers
Cheers!
Hi, great video! I usually put the chiller in the wort the last 10 minutes of the boil to disinfect. Will having the chiller in there prevent whirlpooling? I will be using a long plastic spoon as I don't have a pump. Would steeping the hops in a cheesecloth also work?
My chiller is in the wort at the time I add the hops. You don't necessarily need to swirl the wort. Time and temperature are the keys. Don't need a cheesecloth either. Cheers!
Thanks guys
Thank you too!
little question...
does the 20 minutes of whirlpooling will affect the IBU (since it's hot longer).
I'm talking about the 60min + whirlpool hop addition.
Yes it certainly does. So you do sort of need to take that into account for your total IBU. As long as the temp of the wort remains above 185F you are getting quite a bit of isomerization. Of course, you are still getting some under that temp, but the rate begins to decline more dramatically under that temp. Some pro brews are made entirely with a whirpool addition blast. I haven't tried it that way yet but its a fun thing to get into. You do get a different aroma profile too. Even though you get some additional bitterness during the whirlpool you aren't boiling off the aromatics either. So WP hopping gives you a different method for getting some IBUs and a different aroma addition too. CHEERS! -Mike
allright - trying first NEIPA soon + first Whirpool too (so much hop).
Thanks for the video !
I'll calculate my IBY like if I was boiling for 70 minutes instead of 60 minutes (for a 20 minutes whirlpool).
I guess it would give an good idea of the final IBU.
helpful stuff guys, I've got a NEIPA recipe that calls for 2oz hop addition at flame out and then another 4.5oz at whirlpool at 170 degree's F for 15min. My question is, should I use my immersion chiller to bring from boil to 170 quickly, or just let sit and potentially stir/whirlpool till I get to 170 and then continue to whirlpool for another 15 min after adding my hops, and then use the chiller to get to pitch temp? It also calls for a 30min boil, not 60, which seems like it could affect how sanitary the wort is. I do brew indoors in a clean room. thanks for any help you can provide.
I am brewing a NEIPA this weekend. I plan to use my chiller to bring the wort's temp down a bit and then add my 'whirlpool' hops and let them site for 30 mins before chilling to fermentation temperatures. I am siphoning my wort out of my kettle and have a fine mesh (sanitized) bag to put over my siphon to keep most of the trub out of my fermentation vessel. For the boil, I would boil for 60 minutes and if you have a hop addition that is called for to be added with 30 minutes to go in the boil...add it with 30 minutes to go in the boil. 30 minutes is enough time to sterilize the wort, but I would want to do a full 60 minutes to get some stronger malt flavors in the wort which come from a longer boil. Hope that helps. - John
Great Stones T-Shirt....some sympathy for the whirlpool.
Thanks!
I'm going to use my drill on a low screwdriver setting with a paddle attached (somehow) for 5 minutes after a hop stand. Hopefully that will help any particulate to settle out before transferring to the fermenter.
Nice - let us know how it goes. - John
Brew Dudes about 50/50 satisfaction with the spoon on the end of a power tool whirlpool. I definitely left a lot of particle mush behind when I transferred the wort, but I can do better next time with a midification or 6! Learned a ton of things from tonight's session of gross homebrew incompetence. Just editing the vid for it now. You can check out in a day or so by searching for "homebrew buffonery". My philosophy is learn from my mistakes or, more accurately, forget about the body of knowledge already there until after the mistakes are made then look up why it went wrong. Happy days.
Thinking about whirlpooling for the first time for an upcoming brew day and I was wondering.... would if I had a separate pot of water that was heated to say 170 and I whirlpooled in that for 20min before flame out, then add that mixture to the pot during the wort chilling phase? Thoughts? I've always been under the impression to chill the wort as fast as possible. Maybe separate whirlpooling is a good compromise?
Chilling the wort as fast as possible has always been a misleading statement. But we can discuss that elsewhere. As for steeping your whirlpool hops in water... well you can but then you'd be diluting your beer when you add it. Of course you can take the time and effort to adjust for that if you like (gravity, bitterness, boil time etc etc). I think there is something to be said for the chemistry of the hops in the wort rather than water. I don't know anyone that really reports good things from a hop tea essentially. I think you might get more vegetal stuff from your hops as well as the oils in water vs. wort. You should do a split batch and report the results. Run off half your finished wort to chill and add your water/whirlpool. Then whirlpool directly in the kettle the other half.
That's some good feedback, I might try that! Thanks. What are your thoughts on utilizing a muslin bag or nylon bag during a whirlpool? Or wouldit better to just let the hops free float. I feel like the lower temps will cause the majority of the hops float rather than sink to the bottom and collect in the trub. I like to try and leave all my trub behind if I can
I've never carefully done a side by side, but here are my thoughts on bags. When I use a bag I like it to be fairly large. That way as the hops swell there is plenty of wort circulation through the bag. Of course, I am talking about during a boil but not a whirlpool. I can't say I have really seen an issue with hops in a bag to give me concern I wasn't getting good utilization. For a whirlpool, to ensure they are in the wort and not floating on top, I'd put some weight in the sack. I have extra stainless fittings I use. I also have a cup of glass marbles that I use from time to time. I'd say go for those. -Mike
On a side not, I don't think that temperature effects the hops floating or not. But the boil is a built in 'stirrer' and a whirlpool steep is not. That of course is unless you are actually actively pumping the wort during the whirlpool... if that's the case maybe you don't need the weighted sack. It might help avoid it getting sucked into the outlet via the pumps action. -Mike
Thank you
Cheers! -Mike
What temp do you recommend when doing the hop stand? Also, what temp is ok to put the kettle lid on?
Thanks.
Any temp is good for a hop stand post boil. Some may say you want to be above 140F at least, as its still sanitizing a bit at that temp. As long as you are pitching good active yeast you shouldn't have a problem with hops and contamination. Many brewers are experimenting with different stands at different temps. I prefer to do it right at flame out, so I suppose the temp is just under boiling and declining. You can put the lid on anytime after the boil ends. You are no longer volatilizing the DMS in the wort at that point (assuming you've had a vigorous enough boil to drive it all out prior to flame out). When I do no chill brewing I've never had a problem with lidding it up right at the end of the boil and walking away.
thats exactly what i wanted to know! I think NEIPAs are big with the whirlpool hopping as well as pre dry hop hopping
Nice - yes, add a large dose of hops right after the boil is over. - JOhn
But you didnt say enythink about będę:/