Certain additives that fuel retailers request in the fuel that you buy at your local station varies from brand to brand. Like for example, have you ever noticed that some stations non ethanol fuel smells alot sharper, like carb cleaner or brake kleen. Some have a yellowish tint to there fuel, and some suppliers have crystal clear fuel, every refinery puts out different tiers and qualitys of fuel, some fuels don't have a good smell to them, anyway, we're I'm going with this is certain oils react differently to certain additives in pump gas and resulting in the coking problem in some of these saws. All fuels are not the same
Richard you’re right on 50:1 is for emissions if you want a saw to last you need to mix at 40/1 with the good oils. I’ve been using Red Armour Ported and put big bore kit in 372 with 300 hrs on it everything looked great. It really didn’t need to be rebuilt but I was bored on a rainy day.
I've been running Schaeffer's 9000 32:1 in my ported 660 and 281xp and it's amazing. It seems like the saws just run better with it and it has virtually no smoke at 32:1.
I personally find it telling that the original owners manual for a 90cc saw from one of the major manufacturers recommended 32:1 with their oil when that model was first released in the pre emissions era. When the emissions restraints first came down the owners manuals started stating 50:1 with their oil for the exact same model. So what changed? If you compared the parts breakdowns all of the part numbers were the same so they did not redesign the model with 50:1 in mind. The oil formulation was not altered either, curious. The only thing that changed was that unit now had to wear an emissions certification sticker.
I used to run nothing but 50:1 and since I have started working and rebuilding saws I have moved to 32:1 and I have also moved to running echo red armor it seems to be the cleanest burning and leaves a better oil film
I was running my old Husky 576XP on 40:1. When I got my 592XP I started on 40:1 but went to the recommended 50:1. The more I read and see great videos like this the more I’m convinced going back to a 40:1 mix.
@@simd510 I agree with you on the point about not ‘smarter than them’. But in the same breath, they are aiming to not necessarily achieve peak performance / protection but more so achieve ever tightening emission standards. Like most things, the results in a lab are not the same as the real world. Each to their own, and everyone has their own individual preferences, opinions. For the work my saws are doing, I’d rather a slight increase in emissions for a little extra lubrication/protection even if it only provides peace of mind.
Здраствуйте.Я из России.Я большой поклонник бензопил STIHL имею в хозяйстве 440 и 250.Размешиваю смесь в фирменной пластиковой бутылочки с мерным колпачком от STIHL.Решил замерить мерный колпачок с рисками сколько заливаеться туда масла по рискам.Делал это медецинским пластиковым шприцом на 25 мл.Так вот первая риска для развода на 0,5 залилось 12.5 мл масла. На вторую риску залилось 25 мл на 1 литр. В заводской пластиковой ёмкости уже сделана погрешность для размешивания 1/40 вместо 1/50. Так что вот так.😊
40:1 Maxima 927 Castor, tested under extreme heat conditions for 30 years on a Small Stihl. Fimally tore it down outta curiosity- piston and cylinder looked/measured like new, just beautiful. (Exhaust smells good too!)
Richard up here in interior Alaska, most folks in our village run Castrol , in both the engine and bar, because the freeze point is well over -40f bar oil just turns to molasses in anything below 0 unless you add a little diesel, I use regular old 5w-30 for bar oil and just recently start using amsoil Sabre in my 2-strokes 40:1 and a little richer depending on how cold it is, I have used the Husquavarna, and Stihl oil when available, correct me if I'm wrong but isn't Stihl oil nothing more than rebadged Castrol?
Richard, I always appreciate these videos where you breakdown saws and evaluate oil performance. Hopefully, these oil manufacturers will see these results put more effort into making better products. If enough UA-cam channels begin to do this on a regular basis, eventually people at these 2-stroke oil manufacturers will get the message. As always, thank you for the video.
started running Husq XP back in 2009 then switched to XP+ years ago. I mix at 45:1 with 91 Octane non E fuel & I've never have any issues with it. I run mostly Stihl, a handful of which are ported. But I also keep up on maintenance & don't beat the hell out of them.
Amzoil dominator at 40:1 with non ethanol. I log and cut firewood every day. I run just about every manufacturer and saws are clean and run cool. Good video.
I’ve ran Stihl ultra for the longest time and didn’t have any issues with it. It wasn’t till I started doing side work and using more gas that I switched to saber for the extra cost savings.
Buying it premeasured ranges from $45-60 per quart. You can buy top shelf oil for $15-20 per quart. With a one time investment of a measuring container, it's a great way to get a better product at a great price.
I have used ethanol fuel ever since I’ve been using any small equipment and I’ve had the fuel last a few months. My cans are sealed when closed to no humidity/air gets into the can besides what’s already in it. I’ll have fuel that sits from the winter till spring and it’s still good.
Chicanick made a video about fuel at the pump. If the non-ethanol fuel doesn't have a dedicated pump handle the first 1/2 gallon that comes out is whatever was selected last. In my area I don't see that. My go to gas station has non-ethanol on its own handle.
I switched to the Amsoil Sabre, 90:1. I actually talked to the field rep and he swore up and down that 100:1 was better than all the rest at 50:1. I usually just take off the muffler and peak in at the piston to check. I'm not very mechanically inclined.
@@williamwallace9620 I bet he handles PA too. Let me know if you want his #, he seems real happy to take a call. You can also email them from your order confirmation when they ship your order.
@@williamwallace9620 I usually just get the little 1.5 oz packs for $1.39 off the website, but I see they've got the one gallon jugs for $52.19 before tax and shipping, that's the preferred price. It looks like the regular price is $67.39.
@@williamwallace9620 You get the preferred price if you order a certain USD amount during the year. I get a lot of other stuff there as well as the 2 cycle oil. Take care fren.
Xp plus is what I put in that 592xp. Still at a loss for why it’s so bad I run the shit out of it some days but I swear I mix it 40:1 do you think that could be a result of bad gas maybe we’re getting water in my cans sometimes…. Or getting hot and cold a lot sitting on the Machines
Ive been doin the oil testing thing last couple years myself for curiosity n in my hard working saws redline,schaeffer9000,sabre are my favorites ,i like vpas well n use that in customer saws as in my area its the best bang for the buck..every one that runs stihl oil has a piston that looks same as youve shown..
I use ams saber and I’m horrible at mixing 2 stoke old And what I mean by that is I’m lazy. I eye ball the mixture and I’m hoping for 40:1 - 80:1. I’m curious what the inside of my engine looks like.
Great video! I tried a few different kinds of oils and read a mountain of info. I use maxima 927 at 32:1. A person can run whatever they want but carbon and 50:1 are the enemy lol. Great content!! Thank you!
Hi, I didn't know Husky oil is from Fuchs. Where did you get that info, and which oil is the closest from the Fuchs brand 2 stroke oil if you know? Thank you
Great content. When I went to Vermont a lot in 80’s, 90’s and early 2000’s the guys always hopped up their saws and switched to either motorcycle or snowmobile oil depending on time of year. Then 20:1 up to 32:1 but you could adjust carbs then. For me I use Maxima 927 in summer at 40:1 and maxima K2 at 40:1 in winter. Mainly I use motorcycle oils and have had great luck with longevity. Unfortunately the 927 isn’t made for cold temps or I’d run it year round
I have sample jars of 927 mixed 24:1 with 100ll avgas, non ethanol pump gas, vp 4 cycle small engine fuel 94, Trufuel 4 cycle 92 and sunoco 260gtx. I've seen it separate from 100ll as warm as 60F. Trufuel and e-0 pump it separates around 35-40F. Vp 94 around 15-20F and was only able to get the 260gtx sample down to -10F and it still hadn't separated! But 260gtx is a little aggressive to rubber components, even though it's ethanol free (had a softened fuel line and swollen fuel cap o-ring after fuel had been in saw 2 months). Sounds like you've got a pretty good regime👍🏻
Richard what have your experiences been with the red armor oil? They say it actually removes old caked on carbon and cleans engines to like new!! Have you seen or heard similar results?
Richard found some old mill bastard files..a stubs England smooth ,a 4500 Simonds nucut,us...and a nicholson..where can get file cards at???..touching up gaffs and some times use on blades trimmers and mowers..thanks
My Husqvarna 28L got my fuel left in it last fall and it cranked up on the third pull last week. It had Ultra at 50:1 plus stabilizer in it. I have tended my fuel at 18 months and it is still good. I use premium non- ethanol gas in everything two and four cycle, except my automobiles. It ain’t the oil but how you operate and maintain a saw that determines its life.
We're fortunate to have race gas available. 110 non ethanol with tetraethyl lead. I run that with penzoil marine 2 stroke at 50:1, very few issues. I put it in everything from my blowers to my 881 magnum
@@dennisyoung4631 it runs superbly. This spring I buried the 41" bar of my stihl 881 and it JUST KEPT EATING. That's just one example. Cooler burn and no pre ignition.
Nice video mate! I run a tree care business here in Australia. I use HP ultra with 95 octane in all my sthils they all are super clean and no carbon build up I run 35:-40-1 I run them hard so many that helps the oil burn clean along with the quality fuel.
Im a homeowner and use Red Armour 50:1 and non ethanol fuel available at my local Quick Trip. I muffler mod everything and tune the carbs slightly rich so they run good but dont smoke or soot up. Everything is clean and I believe the good oil and good fuel keeps everything happy👍
Nice investigative findings Rich. It mirrors my observations. My most widely used saw is a ported 026 with a meteor piston. It looks brand new still inside. I also use a 261cm. It seems to get blowby just like the saws you showed. Not really sure why, but the Mtronic tunes it right on the edge. More heat maybe? I run Red Armor at about 32:1 with non-ethanol fuel in both of the saws. 026 is shiny shiny new, 261cm has light brown blow by about 1/2" or so past the rings on the piston. 🤷♂️ Just makes you go Hmmm. 🤔
Could that get behind the ring interfering with compression? I was an opti2 user but on smaller units rings were getting stuck and ruined them. Been using echo red max. No problem and use none ethanol. Have not torn apart
What happens when the EPA gets involved with building your 2 stroke engine. Which happened about the same time I bought my last Stihls in the late 90's, (rough guess of 2000+hrs) that ran primarily 40:1 Stihl oil, and have the original piston and jug. I pulled one down the other day, it had alot of cylinder and piston wear. No scuffing but, real shinny. I bet it would have looked better if I ran HP2 that I run in my bikes, but I probably saved enough $ to buy new saws,.... if I wanted.
I import Red Armour from you guys over to the UK, we don't have Red Armour over here. I willingly pay 3 times the amount because it works for me. I work in a Echo dealership and still buy it privately.
Have you ever seen any equipment that runs opti 2 cycle oil exclusively? I’ve used it at 70:1 for the last couple of years in everything I own and haven’t had a problem yet. I even run it in my mowers that call for 32:1
I like 40:1, when I tear something down I definitely find a good film of oil in the important parts. Those saws on your bench with no oil in the crank cases should be all the information anyone needs. Any and all used engines should have residual oil in them. As far as the epa, they need us, we don't need them.
What do you think of the Echo power blend gold oil? I used to use it a long time ago when it was power blend X. Nobody ever seems to say much about it since the red armor oil apparently took that market by storm...lol
Hey Richard how do you like the original Stihl Hp oil. I been running it in my Stihl equipment for last 5-6 yrs no problems. Did try Hp Ultra when I bought my first piece of equipment to get extra warranty. Weird smell and carbon seems to buildup much more on exhaust port than the conventional Hp. I’m not sure the jaso rating on the conventional Hp orange bottle. But, I have heard guys who run still a far amount use just the orange bottle or start with Ultra from new to break it in than switch to orange bottle. Orange bottle is much cheaper to run regularly too. The dealer near me I’ve heard are not stocking the orange bottle much anymore so was thinking of a cheap readily available alternative. I saw a Castrol 2T multi purpose oil in a quart bottle. The Canadian bottles have Castrol logo printed on back of it. So I’m guessing safe to say there both one and the same. I use about a 6 pack of 6.4 oz mix a season maintaining a few smaller landscape properties which I’m think a quart or two would do me. I think a quart Of it I found to be around $8.99. So $18.99 vs 25.99 I think I been paying for a single 6 pack might be a better route.
In the UK it is hard to get any oil that you suggest, I have been running some Echo for the last month and I think that is the best of a bad bunch. What do you think of oils designed for motorcycles?
There's a pretty broad spectrum of motorcycle oils so it's difficult to say. Do your due diligence on a couple of known high quality oils and try them. I'd say a good FD rated oil should give you good confidence while you experiment.
They work. Look up Motul 710 or 800 offroad. Mix it at 40:1 and you're all set. In fact, motul 800 is so damn thick that you can use it at 50:1. A chainsaw will never get hot enough to burn that oil, so you're like always protected.
What about red armor @ 50 : 1? I have ran it and saber @ 80:1 in my lawncare equipment with 0 issues. My one saber motor has some piston discoloration but it was running rich and fouling plugs, so l am going to say that had something to do with it. My blower motor (pb9010) piston looks like new with saber at 80:1. And any motor that's always ran red armor that l have used/worked the piston looks great.
The tree company I work at part time has run Saber at 80:1 for years. Honestly, at that ratio, I see some piston skirt wear (with daily use and over a long period of time). Just a little skinny on the oil for my taste. No failures, but I think Saber at 40-50:1 can't be beat.
@@richardflagg3084Thanks for the info!! I have since tuned that trimmer and it runs better and hasnt fouled any plugs (it was set that way from the factory). I probably will just go to 50:1 with it. I have over 1.5 gallons of oil so its not a huge deal for me.
Hey Richard, it's a hard debate! 40:1 v 50:1, I've heard the advantages and disadvantages of both and I've decided to go 45:1. According to the manufacturer you only need a misting of oil in the crankcase to lubricate the bearings. I think it's a happy medium going at 45 anyway. I run aspen 4 mixed with hp super, I'd love if you could do a test with hp super its fd rated and better than the pondwater imo..
I run hp super at 40/1 in all my 2 stroke engin sawchain blower hs45 fs56 fs90 ms 261 ms462 cm etc but i run with 98 octane in my country only are 5pourcent éthanol gas no free éthanol and hp super have a stabilisator includ in a test other oil and for me it’s the goodest oil for 2 stroke engine she increase the taux of compression in a new motor compared than other oil and at 40/1 she oil the crankshaft bearing for long time
You have sold me on the Schaffer oil. Only available where I live is the 9000 for 26 bucks a quart. Spend stuff. Is it worth that much money because I'm on limited income??? Thanks. Oh and Napa is where I can get it!
For what it's worth, buying it by the pre measured in 1 or 2 gallon is about $50-65 per quart if you do the math. If you use enough there is a seller on Ebay that will sell you 3 quarts of 7000 for $57 delivered to you door. Also, if there is a motorcycle shop or an Amsoil dealer near you, call and ask if they carry Saber. It's about $15 a quart. Damn fine oil at 40 or 50:1.
Great video, I would have to say the oil I have is echo. Back story why this something I have looked into many years I was in the stihl shop buying my 2stroke oil and talked into buying there pink oil. Now I told it was made for the home owners light use work, a little bit of fire wood cutting but it my solo 680 chainsaw which was running 40 to 1 fuel. When I open it up it was dry in the bottom cheers Kevin down under Australia
Klotz techniplate 40:1... corn free fuel, 93 octane with a touch of stabil if working on saws that may not run again for a month or more. Havent seen problems with stabil in anything thats in service... im not trusting pumps to have 0% corn in their fuel. Used to use an octane boost, but the reliable supply i was blessed with has dried up, so now theres another project, researching good octane boost.
hi again richard in bulgaria our amsoil dealer dont have saber he offers amsoil small engine sae 10 w 30 oil we dont have shaeffers we also have lucas and yamalube i saw your videos and i dont want to run stihl or husqvarna oils forgot to mention we also have dominator but both amsoil oils are 4 stroke oils can you please give me advice which oil should i use thank you greetings from bulgaria
Education and awareness are key to any profession or hobby. Valid points to be considered. Why not use a different ratio of better oil if it will extend component life? Thanks
My guess is they are running cheap 87 ethanol gas. Like I told you I just put a new ring in my 55 husky. It's only had non ethanol fuel and husky oil it's entire life and it looked new still inside. Very clean and minimal carbon build. Now every time I take a saw apart that's run pond water and they never look great for sure ever.
Richard I have been running lucas semi synthetic 40/1 I just bought my first bottle of amsoil saber! Amsois says run at 80/1 I have only mixed 2 gallons of gas I mixed it at 50/1 what would you recommend to run amsoil at?
The tree service I work at has run it for years at 80:1. I do see LONG term wear on the skirts tho. I'd run it at 40 or 50:1. It still burns cleaner than anything out there. At 40:1 the oil film in the crankcase is really impressive.
I've used XP+ for years with no issues. Recently tried Saber at 80:1 though and I've been very impressed with it. Using it exclusively in my most used saw and I tear it down every 10 hours or so just as kind of an experiment. Obviously I think it's doing really well to the point it's going in all my saws👍
@@mikemckinney6058 Saber seems up to the task. There are certainly different qualities of oil and I believe Saber leaves enough high quality lubricant behind to keep chainsaws in good shape
@@AnarchAngel1 I’ve ran it 80:1 and it was fine until midsummer(in a echo srm-2620 trimmer) when it was 90 degrees out and it started burning everyone’s elbows 😂
@@mikemckinney6058 It could argued that more heat leaving the exhaust means less heat is building up in the engine 🤷♂️ Most of the tests I've seen comparing Saber to other oils shows lower engine temperatures
@@AnarchAngel1 I drilled a couple of bypass holes in the baffle of my SRM 2620 muffler to bypass the cat. Also, the exhaust deflector gasket is half the size of the deflector opening restricting the flow even more. Gasket matched it and no more burned elbows and a lot cooler exhaust. Didn’t really make it much louder than original.
Seems the Ultra and the Husky oil are not performing well. A lot of carbon is not good and I wonder if the results would be different with these oils at 40:1. Not so much the carbon but the film of oil in the lower end?
old macs 10-10 , 555 ,10-10s ,7-10 ,700 .800 ,pm-6 's 32-1 klotz r-50 , 91oct no ox prem..3/8 av gas 100 oct low lead mix saws are all rebuilt running at best rpm high speed seting. lean for power. ..
Schaeffers is great oil but isn't the 7000 series a TCW oil designed for water-cooled engines that don't run as hot. Wouldn't the 9046 or 9006 oil be better for the high heat of these air cooled engine?
The best oils on the market for two stroke are the race bike and kart oils. Namely Motul 800, BelRay H1-R, Klotz R50, Silkolene Pro 2, Maxima K2, Ipone Stroke 2R Motul Kart Grand Prix and ELF HTX 976+. These oils are premix only and do not burn off like injector and readymic oils. They are characterised by higher viscosity, higher density and higher flash points. If you run these oils at 40:1 they will all leave oil in the crank case and the piston wash will be more pronounced as less oil will burn onto the piston. Give it a try. Whichever is available at your motorcycle shop.
Didn’t you have good results out of some tests of Echo red armor? I have always ran orange Stihl oil, I believe my dad used to run power blend when I was a young chap but that’s long ago. I have an MS180 that I ran several gallons of 50:1 ultra through cause I figured synthetic was better than regular but after watching your series about it decided to go back to running out my stock of the orange bottle oil. I just recently had the muffler off opening it it up and installing a wt215 carb to gain adjustability and the piston had zero coking on the exhaust side so I’d say I got lucky. Of course that’s not opening it up but I’m not gonna open up a perfectly good running saw Probably will switch to red armor or amsoil when I run out
TC-W3 marine grade oils are for water cooled engines i.e. outboard motors. Failing to mention the oil maker clearly states not to use TC-W3 oil in air cooled engines is a critical omission of this video.
Have a look at another video I made months ago. Why anything is better than Ultra. I and another builder have years of use with this oil. Say what you like, but this oil does very well in an air cooled engine. I did mention I run "boat oil" as my preferred mix oil in that one (and other videos).
thank you for this informative video which I am very patient At us in France we only have gasoline with 10% ethanol, that’s why I use a stabilizer additive , and buy small quantity I use husqvarna xp oil at 45/1 but deforested it is aspen 4 times more oil sthil hp super standard FD OR HUSQ XP that has incredible cleaning power on the carbonne but it is expensive , cutting wood becomes a luxury I hear in your videos a lot of good oil 2t echo, at us no American oil it’s a shame what do you think of oil echo see you soon Richard and thank you again
Well don’t change your mind now! You are to blame for me becoming an Amsoil dealer a few months ago! Running Saber in all my two strokes now. I was running Stihl ultra before.
@@FishFind3000 I wondered. Almost like a commercial for Husqvarna oil. He said he was tired of it stinking to where his clothes even stunk. I was like SAY WAAAA?? Lol. Thanks
Both Stihl Ultra and Husqvarna XP are both good two cycle oils. I am not running snake oil and that is what I consider Amsoil. XP is a JASO FD oil and Ultra is a JASO FB oil. I do not like FD oil because it doubles pullover. I run 45:1 or 50:1 with equal results. I prefer 50:1 Stihl Ultra. FD oil might be better for my saws but they are not better for my arm and shoulder. If I was 30, again, I might run one of them, but not at 78. My saws will outlast me, I’m sure.
50:1 at least is what the manufacturer recommends. I don't understand the people who run 100:1. Do they drain 3.5 quarts of oil out of their car and go drive around too?
Neither stihl or Husqvarna make oil, castrol makes both oils, they jus slap their company name on them. Castrol is the best and is a little bit thicker.
I have been running Husqvarna LS oil for decades. Always 92 premium non ethanol at about 45:1 forever. Granted I am a homeowner, but after decades of cutting I have yet to fix a saw or replace one. I have torn a few saws down, and I can't agree more with you on crap oil and the damage they can do. It's nice to have the work, but it sucks when it was completely unnecessary if they would have spent a dollar for good gasoline and oil. But this is a throw away society we live in, so let's just keep playing along I guess. 🤦♂️ Someone wants to cry about bad products, my collection of Poulans starts in 1971 and goes to 2009. They all run flawlessly, even the Strato motor Poulan. Bad Owners, Bad Oil, Bad Choices.
I'm trying to figure out where we are going with this video, I did subscribe and hope you will reciprocate. The blue con rod scares the hell out of me, it got real Hot!!! I'm running Sabre at 50:1. Occasionally i will run canned fuel to "clean out" the fuel system. I don't tear it apart unless it is required
On the 660, that was not the original top end. I did have to replace the carb. Whoever rebuilt it last just tuned around the wonkey carb. Yes, the big end got hot, but the bearing is still fine. Stick with Saber. Hands down it's a better oil than any of the manufactures oil.
The last couple years I've been trying different oils. The 16+ years prior to falling down this rabbit hole😂... for handheld OPE, it all got echo power blend or husqvarna xp. Somewhere between 40/50:1 with pump gas. Sometimes e-free, sometimes e-10🤦♂️ then about 9-10 years ago I changed to almost exclusively canned fuel. Sometimes the 4 cycle version and mixed my own oil in, typically the pre mixed versions. Last 2-3 years have all been self mixed. (I don't make a living running saws and 2-t equipment. If I did, anything north of $10 a gallon would be out of question.) Have had no oil related "failures" personally but have seen plenty over the years to know it really does matter what oil and fuel one uses! I have seen build-up similar to that from husky xp+ and ethanol laced gas in a very high hour husky brush cutter. Aaron and John Bob got me started on the maxima castor 927 @32:1 and after 10 months, I'm still really liking what I'm seeing! Plenty of oil in bottom ends and almost no build-up! Also just recently picked up some aspen2 to try in trimmers and blowers, just because local my dealer got some in😅 best believe it ain't going near my favorite saws anytime soon! Not at 50:1. Keep e'm coming Rich! Thanks for putting in all the time and effort👍🏻
Certain additives that fuel retailers request in the fuel that you buy at your local station varies from brand to brand. Like for example, have you ever noticed that some stations non ethanol fuel smells alot sharper, like carb cleaner or brake kleen. Some have a yellowish tint to there fuel, and some suppliers have crystal clear fuel, every refinery puts out different tiers and qualitys of fuel, some fuels don't have a good smell to them, anyway, we're I'm going with this is certain oils react differently to certain additives in pump gas and resulting in the coking problem in some of these saws. All fuels are not the same
I just love your content Richard. Thanks for sharing as always!
Richard you’re right on 50:1 is for emissions if you want a saw to last you need to mix at 40/1 with the good oils. I’ve been using Red Armour Ported and put big bore kit in 372 with 300 hrs on it everything looked great. It really didn’t need to be rebuilt but I was bored on a rainy day.
33:1 is bed ?
I've been running Schaeffer's 9000 32:1 in my ported 660 and 281xp and it's amazing. It seems like the saws just run better with it and it has virtually no smoke at 32:1.
I personally find it telling that the original owners manual for a 90cc saw from one of the major manufacturers recommended 32:1 with their oil when that model was first released in the pre emissions era. When the emissions restraints first came down the owners manuals started stating 50:1 with their oil for the exact same model. So what changed? If you compared the parts breakdowns all of the part numbers were the same so they did not redesign the model with 50:1 in mind. The oil formulation was not altered either, curious. The only thing that changed was that unit now had to wear an emissions certification sticker.
Friend 33:1 it's ok it won't damage the piston carbon deposits? can scythes also work on such a mixture?
@@Sensei948 50:1 is 2% oil in the gas. 40:1 is probably around 2.5%, 32:1 a little over 3%. The larger CC the saw, the more oil needed IMHO.
Thanks, greetings from Barcelona SPAIN
I used to run nothing but 50:1 and since I have started working and rebuilding saws I have moved to 32:1 and I have also moved to running echo red armor it seems to be the cleanest burning and leaves a better oil film
Friend 33:1 it's ok it won't damage the piston carbon deposits? can scythes also work on such a mixture?
I was running my old Husky 576XP on 40:1. When I got my 592XP I started on 40:1 but went to the recommended 50:1.
The more I read and see great videos like this the more I’m convinced going back to a 40:1 mix.
Nope. Follow whats recommended. You ain't smarter than them
@@simd510 I agree with you on the point about not ‘smarter than them’. But in the same breath, they are aiming to not necessarily achieve peak performance / protection but more so achieve ever tightening emission standards. Like most things, the results in a lab are not the same as the real world. Each to their own, and everyone has their own individual preferences, opinions. For the work my saws are doing, I’d rather a slight increase in emissions for a little extra lubrication/protection even if it only provides peace of mind.
Здраствуйте.Я из России.Я большой поклонник бензопил STIHL имею в хозяйстве 440 и 250.Размешиваю смесь в фирменной пластиковой бутылочки с мерным колпачком от STIHL.Решил замерить мерный колпачок с рисками сколько заливаеться туда масла по рискам.Делал это медецинским пластиковым шприцом на 25 мл.Так вот первая риска для развода на 0,5 залилось 12.5 мл масла. На вторую риску залилось 25 мл на 1 литр. В заводской пластиковой ёмкости уже сделана погрешность для размешивания 1/40 вместо 1/50. Так что вот так.😊
40:1 Maxima 927 Castor, tested under extreme heat conditions for 30 years on a Small Stihl. Fimally tore it down outta curiosity- piston and cylinder looked/measured like new, just beautiful. (Exhaust smells good too!)
Richard up here in interior Alaska, most folks in our village run Castrol , in both the engine and bar, because the freeze point is well over -40f bar oil just turns to molasses in anything below 0 unless you add a little diesel, I use regular old 5w-30 for bar oil and just recently start using amsoil Sabre in my 2-strokes 40:1 and a little richer depending on how cold it is, I have used the Husquavarna, and Stihl oil when available, correct me if I'm wrong but isn't Stihl oil nothing more than rebadged Castrol?
Richard, I always appreciate these videos where you breakdown saws and evaluate oil performance. Hopefully, these oil manufacturers will see these results put more effort into making better products. If enough UA-cam channels begin to do this on a regular basis, eventually people at these 2-stroke oil manufacturers will get the message. As always, thank you for the video.
started running Husq XP back in 2009 then switched to XP+ years ago. I mix at 45:1 with 91 Octane non E fuel & I've never have any issues with it. I run mostly Stihl, a handful of which are ported. But I also keep up on maintenance & don't beat the hell out of them.
Amzoil dominator at 40:1 with non ethanol. I log and cut firewood every day. I run just about every manufacturer and saws are clean and run cool. Good video.
I’ve ran Stihl ultra for the longest time and didn’t have any issues with it. It wasn’t till I started doing side work and using more gas that I switched to saber for the extra cost savings.
Buying it premeasured ranges from $45-60 per quart. You can buy top shelf oil for $15-20 per quart. With a one time investment of a measuring container, it's a great way to get a better product at a great price.
I have used ethanol fuel ever since I’ve been using any small equipment and I’ve had the fuel last a few months. My cans are sealed when closed to no humidity/air gets into the can besides what’s already in it. I’ll have fuel that sits from the winter till spring and it’s still good.
Chicanick made a video about fuel at the pump. If the non-ethanol fuel doesn't have a dedicated pump handle the first 1/2 gallon that comes out is whatever was selected last. In my area I don't see that. My go to gas station has non-ethanol on its own handle.
Metal gas cans or plastic?
I switched to the Amsoil Sabre, 90:1. I actually talked to the field rep and he swore up and down that 100:1 was better than all the rest at 50:1. I usually just take off the muffler and peak in at the piston to check. I'm not very mechanically inclined.
@@williamwallace9620 I bet he handles PA too. Let me know if you want his #, he seems real happy to take a call. You can also email them from your order confirmation when they ship your order.
@@williamwallace9620 I usually just get the little 1.5 oz packs for $1.39 off the website, but I see they've got the one gallon jugs for $52.19 before tax and shipping, that's the preferred price. It looks like the regular price is $67.39.
@@williamwallace9620 You get the preferred price if you order a certain USD amount during the year. I get a lot of other stuff there as well as the 2 cycle oil. Take care fren.
Xp plus is what I put in that 592xp. Still at a loss for why it’s so bad I run the shit out of it some days but I swear I mix it 40:1 do you think that could be a result of bad gas maybe we’re getting water in my cans sometimes…. Or getting hot and cold a lot sitting on the Machines
Ive been doin the oil testing thing last couple years myself for curiosity n in my hard working saws redline,schaeffer9000,sabre are my favorites ,i like vpas well n use that in customer saws as in my area its the best bang for the buck..every one that runs stihl oil has a piston that looks same as youve shown..
I use ams saber and I’m horrible at mixing 2 stoke old And what I mean by that is I’m lazy. I eye ball the mixture and I’m hoping for 40:1 - 80:1. I’m curious what the inside of my engine looks like.
Great video! I tried a few different kinds of oils and read a mountain of info. I use maxima 927 at 32:1. A person can run whatever they want but carbon and 50:1 are the enemy lol. Great content!! Thank you!
Thanks!
It is a darn fine oil. One that I can't seem to walk away from! Thanks to you and Aaron for showing me the light😅👍🏻
It’s done us a fine job!!! Thank you!
927 rocks!
Gives your buzz-bomb the smell of Victory!
Still is Castrol, Husky is Fuchs. Both very good. I run 40 to 1, with fuel stabilizer. 95 or 98 octane gas
Hi, I didn't know Husky oil is from Fuchs. Where did you get that info, and which oil is the closest from the Fuchs brand 2 stroke oil if you know? Thank you
mannol-2-takt-plus
Great content. When I went to Vermont a lot in 80’s, 90’s and early 2000’s the guys always hopped up their saws and switched to either motorcycle or snowmobile oil depending on time of year. Then 20:1 up to 32:1 but you could adjust carbs then.
For me I use Maxima 927 in summer at 40:1 and maxima K2 at 40:1 in winter. Mainly I use motorcycle oils and have had great luck with longevity. Unfortunately the 927 isn’t made for cold temps or I’d run it year round
Great info! Thanks
927 rocks!
I have sample jars of 927 mixed 24:1 with 100ll avgas, non ethanol pump gas, vp 4 cycle small engine fuel 94, Trufuel 4 cycle 92 and sunoco 260gtx.
I've seen it separate from 100ll as warm as 60F. Trufuel and e-0 pump it separates around 35-40F. Vp 94 around 15-20F and was only able to get the 260gtx sample down to -10F and it still hadn't separated! But 260gtx is a little aggressive to rubber components, even though it's ethanol free (had a softened fuel line and swollen fuel cap o-ring after fuel had been in saw 2 months). Sounds like you've got a pretty good regime👍🏻
@@richardflagg3084 33:1 is bed?
Richard what have your experiences been with the red armor oil? They say it actually removes old caked on carbon and cleans engines to like new!! Have you seen or heard similar results?
What ratios are your customers running the Sabre at?
If the majority of saw owners knew how to sharpen their saws they wouldnt have to worry about overheating their saw engine.
Learning to file well was a long, slow process for me. Just like stopping when the chain started to get dull and do a touch up.
Richard found some old mill bastard files..a stubs England smooth ,a 4500 Simonds nucut,us...and a nicholson..where can get file cards at???..touching up gaffs and some times use on blades trimmers and mowers..thanks
That's a good question. Maybe McMaster Carr has them or better yet check Ebay for a nice old school file card.
My Husqvarna 28L got my fuel left in it last fall and it cranked up on the third pull last week. It had Ultra at 50:1 plus stabilizer in it. I have tended my fuel at 18 months and it is still good. I use premium non- ethanol gas in everything two and four cycle, except my automobiles. It ain’t the oil but how you operate and maintain a saw that determines its life.
Been using Saber for over 10 yrs with ethanol free gas. Knock on wood, no issues!
We're fortunate to have race gas available. 110 non ethanol with tetraethyl lead. I run that with penzoil marine 2 stroke at 50:1, very few issues. I put it in everything from my blowers to my 881 magnum
The 110 octane - does it run good under sustained heavy load?
@@dennisyoung4631 it runs superbly. This spring I buried the 41" bar of my stihl 881 and it JUST KEPT EATING. That's just one example. Cooler burn and no pre ignition.
@batmantiss u waste ur money, there's no benefit in race fuel on a engine that runs great on regular 87
@@alltherpm well it's my money to waste then. And my saws run exponentially better on race fuel
@batmantiss maybe there's something wrong with it, my dolmar has a 54mm big bore, it's just as fast on regular, never mind stock engineered equipment
I have used both, had issues. Now I use CHAMPION only,
Good stuff Rich! Thanks for sharing.
I have a request for a oil. Redline all sport, or smokeless.
I would be curious how the best oils perform on Mtronic saws.
Nice video mate! I run a tree care business here in Australia. I use HP ultra with 95 octane in all my sthils they all are super clean and no carbon build up I run 35:-40-1 I run them hard so many that helps the oil burn clean along with the quality fuel.
Does coking hinder performance very much?
Im a homeowner and use Red Armour 50:1 and non ethanol fuel available at my local Quick Trip. I muffler mod everything and tune the carbs slightly rich so they run good but dont smoke or soot up. Everything is clean and I believe the good oil and good fuel keeps everything happy👍
Nice investigative findings Rich. It mirrors my observations. My most widely used saw is a ported 026 with a meteor piston. It looks brand new still inside.
I also use a 261cm. It seems to get blowby just like the saws you showed. Not really sure why, but the Mtronic tunes it right on the edge. More heat maybe?
I run Red Armor at about 32:1 with non-ethanol fuel in both of the saws. 026 is shiny shiny new, 261cm has light brown blow by about 1/2" or so past the rings on the piston. 🤷♂️ Just makes you go Hmmm. 🤔
Could that get behind the ring interfering with compression? I was an opti2 user but on smaller units rings were getting stuck and ruined them. Been using echo red max. No problem and use none ethanol. Have not torn apart
I switched to sabre and am doing 40 to 1 I really appreciate your advice Richard you can tell you know your stuff cheers mate
What happens when the EPA gets involved with building your 2 stroke engine. Which happened about the same time I bought my last Stihls in the late 90's, (rough guess of 2000+hrs) that ran primarily 40:1 Stihl oil, and have the original piston and jug. I pulled one down the other day, it had alot of cylinder and piston wear. No scuffing but, real shinny. I bet it would have looked better if I ran HP2 that I run in my bikes, but I probably saved enough $ to buy new saws,.... if I wanted.
Amsoil Interceptor at 50:1. I cut
40 + facecords a year and run my
Saws hard. So far so good.
I was cutting that in a week selling firewood, I had to hand cut 8 cords a wk to survive, ended up being 300 cords a yr
Hello Are you still thinking Red Armor is ok?
Yup
It's my current recommendation for "box store" 2t oil!
I import Red Armour from you guys over to the UK, we don't have Red Armour over here.
I willingly pay 3 times the amount because it works for me. I work in a Echo dealership and still buy it privately.
@@robertoduranos5196 Strange how certain oils are available to certain markets.
@@richardflagg3084 I asked/emailed Echo this exact question last year, they never replied..
Keep up the great content.
Rich nice video. 👍👍👍👍 What is this performance work that you mention. 😜😙😋😃🙃🌝
Have you ever seen any equipment that runs opti 2 cycle oil exclusively? I’ve used it at 70:1 for the last couple of years in everything I own and haven’t had a problem yet. I even run it in my mowers that call for 32:1
Never tried it. That's the oil that comes in the overgrown ketchup packet? That's cool you have an old Lawnboy.
Do you think that discoloration on the 660 connecting rod is from running hot and dull being pushed hard through stumps?
I like 40:1, when I tear something down I definitely find a good film of oil in the important parts. Those saws on your bench with no oil in the crank cases should be all the information anyone needs. Any and all used engines should have residual oil in them. As far as the epa, they need us, we don't need them.
Szia milyen olajat ajálsz Stihl ms 462
What do you think of the Echo power blend gold oil? I used to use it a long time ago when it was power blend X. Nobody ever seems to say much about it since the red armor oil apparently took that market by storm...lol
Hey Richard how do you like the original Stihl Hp oil. I been running it in my Stihl equipment for last 5-6 yrs no problems. Did try Hp Ultra when I bought my first piece of equipment to get extra warranty. Weird smell and carbon seems to buildup much more on exhaust port than the conventional Hp. I’m not sure the jaso rating on the conventional Hp orange bottle. But, I have heard guys who run still a far amount use just the orange bottle or start with Ultra from new to break it in than switch to orange bottle. Orange bottle is much cheaper to run regularly too. The dealer near me I’ve heard are not stocking the orange bottle much anymore so was thinking of a cheap readily available alternative. I saw a Castrol 2T multi purpose oil in a quart bottle. The Canadian bottles have Castrol logo printed on back of it. So I’m guessing safe to say there both one and the same. I use about a 6 pack of 6.4 oz mix a season maintaining a few smaller landscape properties which I’m think a quart or two would do me. I think a quart Of it I found to be around $8.99. So $18.99 vs 25.99 I think I been paying for a single 6 pack might be a better route.
In the UK it is hard to get any oil that you suggest, I have been running some Echo for the last month and I think that is the best of a bad bunch. What do you think of oils designed for motorcycles?
There's a pretty broad spectrum of motorcycle oils so it's difficult to say. Do your due diligence on a couple of known high quality oils and try them. I'd say a good FD rated oil should give you good confidence while you experiment.
They work. Look up Motul 710 or 800 offroad.
Mix it at 40:1 and you're all set.
In fact, motul 800 is so damn thick that you can use it at 50:1.
A chainsaw will never get hot enough to burn that oil, so you're like always protected.
What about red armor @ 50 : 1? I have ran it and saber @ 80:1 in my lawncare equipment with 0 issues. My one saber motor has some piston discoloration but it was running rich and fouling plugs, so l am going to say that had something to do with it. My blower motor (pb9010) piston looks like new with saber at 80:1. And any motor that's always ran red armor that l have used/worked the piston looks great.
The tree company I work at part time has run Saber at 80:1 for years. Honestly, at that ratio, I see some piston skirt wear (with daily use and over a long period of time). Just a little skinny on the oil for my taste. No failures, but I think Saber at 40-50:1 can't be beat.
Get the one unit tuned properly. You can easily run Saber at 40:1 and still be squeaky clean. Best detergent package on the market.
@@richardflagg3084Thanks for the info!! I have since tuned that trimmer and it runs better and hasnt fouled any plugs (it was set that way from the factory). I probably will just go to 50:1 with it. I have over 1.5 gallons of oil so its not a huge deal for me.
Hey Richard, it's a hard debate! 40:1 v 50:1, I've heard the advantages and disadvantages of both and I've decided to go 45:1. According to the manufacturer you only need a misting of oil in the crankcase to lubricate the bearings. I think it's a happy medium going at 45 anyway. I run aspen 4 mixed with hp super, I'd love if you could do a test with hp super its fd rated and better than the pondwater imo..
I run hp super at 40/1 in all my 2 stroke engin sawchain blower hs45 fs56 fs90 ms 261 ms462 cm etc but i run with 98 octane in my country only are 5pourcent éthanol gas no free éthanol and hp super have a stabilisator includ in a test other oil and for me it’s the goodest oil for 2 stroke engine she increase the taux of compression in a new motor compared than other oil and at 40/1 she oil the crankshaft bearing for long time
@MrBaptiste003 agree 100percent I only run hp super, I run it with aspen 4 for maximum protection, ultra is not as good, hp super all the way 👍🏻
@@MrBaptiste003 do you leave mixture in the saw when you don't need it for few months? Or you run it till goes off and leave it empty?
@@gravityloose when i dont Start my saw for des week i used motomix stihl for storage only it’s thé only Good méthode
Great Video. I use Amsoil Saber at a 45:1 ration with Non (🌽) 91 gas.
You have sold me on the Schaffer oil. Only available where I live is the 9000 for 26 bucks a quart. Spend stuff. Is it worth that much money because I'm on limited income??? Thanks. Oh and Napa is where I can get it!
For what it's worth, buying it by the pre measured in 1 or 2 gallon is about $50-65 per quart if you do the math. If you use enough there is a seller on Ebay that will sell you 3 quarts of 7000 for $57 delivered to you door. Also, if there is a motorcycle shop or an Amsoil dealer near you, call and ask if they carry Saber. It's about $15 a quart. Damn fine oil at 40 or 50:1.
@@richardflagg3084 ok so there is a motorcycle shop and I thought about going there so I will tomorrow. Thanks for the info!
Could you try amsoil interceptor at 40 or 50:1 in a test?
What do the filters look like? There seems to be a lot of dirt around the rest of the crankcase.
🍻 Nice array of saws. Good content, but you know my oil of choice! 😁 Happy belated Easter!
The 660 loved it. Looked about as good as it can get.
Great video, I would have to say the oil I have is echo. Back story why this something I have looked into many years I was in the stihl shop buying my 2stroke oil and talked into buying there pink oil. Now I told it was made for the home owners light use work, a little bit of fire wood cutting but it my solo 680 chainsaw which was running 40 to 1 fuel. When I open it up it was dry in the bottom cheers Kevin down under Australia
Klotz techniplate 40:1... corn free fuel, 93 octane with a touch of stabil if working on saws that may not run again for a month or more. Havent seen problems with stabil in anything thats in service... im not trusting pumps to have 0% corn in their fuel. Used to use an octane boost, but the reliable supply i was blessed with has dried up, so now theres another project, researching good octane boost.
hi again richard in bulgaria our amsoil dealer dont have saber he offers amsoil small engine sae 10 w 30 oil we dont have shaeffers we also have lucas and yamalube i saw your videos and i dont want to run stihl or husqvarna oils forgot to mention we also have dominator but both amsoil oils are 4 stroke oils can you please give me advice which oil should i use thank you greetings from bulgaria
Yamalube would be a very good option. Most of the Echo oils are FD rated if you can get them. Look for the JASO rating on the side of the bottle.
@@richardflagg3084 i cant get the echo oils so i will buy yamalube thank you very much
Hi there Richard. Tell me castrol power 1 racing would that be a good oil to run in chainsaws
Hi have you used VP racing 2 stroke oil?
Last couple of times I was at Tractor Supply they were out of stock.
Education and awareness are key to any profession or hobby. Valid points to be considered. Why not use a different ratio of better oil if it will extend component life? Thanks
My guess is they are running cheap 87 ethanol gas. Like I told you I just put a new ring in my 55 husky. It's only had non ethanol fuel and husky oil it's entire life and it looked new still inside. Very clean and minimal carbon build. Now every time I take a saw apart that's run pond water and they never look great for sure ever.
richard im writhing from bulgaria what do you think about lukas 2 stroke semi synthetic oil thank you
Richard I have been running lucas semi synthetic 40/1 I just bought my first bottle of amsoil saber! Amsois says run at 80/1 I have only mixed 2 gallons of gas I mixed it at 50/1 what would you recommend to run amsoil at?
The tree service I work at has run it for years at 80:1. I do see LONG term wear on the skirts tho. I'd run it at 40 or 50:1. It still burns cleaner than anything out there. At 40:1 the oil film in the crankcase is really impressive.
I've used XP+ for years with no issues. Recently tried Saber at 80:1 though and I've been very impressed with it. Using it exclusively in my most used saw and I tear it down every 10 hours or so just as kind of an experiment. Obviously I think it's doing really well to the point it's going in all my saws👍
That’s ballsy in a chainsaw. With something that turns 15k rpm I’d stick with a little more oil content. Love saber though! 👊🏼
@@mikemckinney6058 Saber seems up to the task. There are certainly different qualities of oil and I believe Saber leaves enough high quality lubricant behind to keep chainsaws in good shape
@@AnarchAngel1 I’ve ran it 80:1 and it was fine until midsummer(in a echo srm-2620 trimmer) when it was 90 degrees out and it started burning everyone’s elbows 😂
@@mikemckinney6058 It could argued that more heat leaving the exhaust means less heat is building up in the engine 🤷♂️ Most of the tests I've seen comparing Saber to other oils shows lower engine temperatures
@@AnarchAngel1 I drilled a couple of bypass holes in the baffle of my SRM 2620 muffler to bypass the cat. Also, the exhaust deflector gasket is half the size of the deflector opening restricting the flow even more. Gasket matched it and no more burned elbows and a lot cooler exhaust. Didn’t really make it much louder than original.
Seems the Ultra and the Husky oil are not performing well. A lot of carbon is not good and I wonder if the results would be different with these oils at 40:1. Not so much the carbon but the film of oil in the lower end?
I've seen ultra at 40:1 and it's not any better.
@@richardflagg3084 Suspected that would be the case. I will stick to what you see that works best...Schaffers or Amsoil :))
old macs 10-10 , 555 ,10-10s ,7-10 ,700 .800 ,pm-6 's 32-1 klotz r-50 , 91oct no ox prem..3/8 av gas 100 oct low lead mix saws are all rebuilt running at best rpm high speed seting. lean for power. ..
Schaeffers is great oil but isn't the 7000 series a TCW oil designed for water-cooled engines that don't run as hot. Wouldn't the 9046 or 9006 oil be better for the high heat of these air cooled engine?
The best oils on the market for two stroke are the race bike and kart oils.
Namely Motul 800, BelRay H1-R, Klotz R50, Silkolene Pro 2, Maxima K2, Ipone Stroke 2R Motul Kart Grand Prix and ELF HTX 976+.
These oils are premix only and do not burn off like injector and readymic oils. They are characterised by higher viscosity, higher density and higher flash points.
If you run these oils at 40:1 they will all leave oil in the crank case and the piston wash will be more pronounced as less oil will burn onto the piston.
Give it a try. Whichever is available at your motorcycle shop.
Didn’t you have good results out of some tests of Echo red armor?
I have always ran orange Stihl oil, I believe my dad used to run power blend when I was a young chap but that’s long ago.
I have an MS180 that I ran several gallons of 50:1 ultra through cause I figured synthetic was better than regular but after watching your series about it decided to go back to running out my stock of the orange bottle oil. I just recently had the muffler off opening it it up and installing a wt215 carb to gain adjustability and the piston had zero coking on the exhaust side so I’d say I got lucky. Of course that’s not opening it up but I’m not gonna open up a perfectly good running saw
Probably will switch to red armor or amsoil when I run out
Check out opti2 stroke oil I'd love your opinion
TC-W3 marine grade oils are for water cooled engines i.e. outboard motors.
Failing to mention the oil maker clearly states not to use TC-W3 oil in air cooled engines is a critical omission of this video.
Have a look at another video I made months ago. Why anything is better than Ultra. I and another builder have years of use with this oil. Say what you like, but this oil does very well in an air cooled engine. I did mention I run "boat oil" as my preferred mix oil in that one (and other videos).
thank you for this informative video which I am very patient
At us in France we only have gasoline with 10% ethanol, that’s why I use a stabilizer additive , and buy small quantity I use husqvarna xp oil at 45/1
but deforested it is aspen 4 times more oil sthil hp super standard FD OR HUSQ XP that has incredible cleaning power on the carbonne but it is expensive , cutting wood becomes a luxury
I hear in your videos a lot of good oil 2t echo, at us no American oil it’s a shame
what do you think of oil echo
see you soon Richard and thank you again
Anything at 32/1 is fine. Quicksilver full synthetic. Braap. Bsafe Richard
go to a small munni airport and buy aviation gas. 100 octane, low lead. lasts for years and years. The top of the fuel chain.
Used to think my old man was crazy for running 20:1 but his 395 has had less down time that mine 😂
That husky looks like the rings haven't seated. Wonder if that bore is egg shaped?
or piston
Well don’t change your mind now! You are to blame for me becoming an Amsoil dealer a few months ago! Running Saber in all my two strokes now. I was running Stihl ultra before.
Check Leon’s site about amsoil. Heard stihl oil literally stinks, is that true?
@@steveriggenbach90 I don’t remember Stihl ultra oil stinking that bad if at all.
@@FishFind3000 I wondered. Almost like a commercial for Husqvarna oil. He said he was tired of it stinking to where his clothes even stunk. I was like SAY WAAAA?? Lol. Thanks
Both Stihl Ultra and Husqvarna XP are both good two cycle oils. I am not running snake oil and that is what I consider Amsoil. XP is a JASO FD oil and Ultra is a JASO FB oil. I do not like FD oil because it doubles pullover. I run 45:1 or 50:1 with equal results. I prefer 50:1 Stihl Ultra. FD oil might be better for my saws but they are not better for my arm and shoulder. If I was 30, again, I might run one of them, but not at 78. My saws will outlast me, I’m sure.
The difference between 50:1 and 45:1 is .28 of an ounce. I wouldn't expect that much of a difference either. Explain "doubles pullover" please.
doubles pullover? does this mean you have to wear an extra jumper with FD oil?
@@richardflagg3084I'm assuming he thinks the extra detergents in FD oil somehow kills a little power.
50:1 at least is what the manufacturer recommends. I don't understand the people who run 100:1. Do they drain 3.5 quarts of oil out of their car and go drive around too?
Neither stihl or Husqvarna make oil, castrol makes both oils, they jus slap their company name on them. Castrol is the best and is a little bit thicker.
I have been running Husqvarna LS oil for decades. Always 92 premium non ethanol at about 45:1 forever. Granted I am a homeowner, but after decades of cutting I have yet to fix a saw or replace one. I have torn a few saws down, and I can't agree more with you on crap oil and the damage they can do. It's nice to have the work, but it sucks when it was completely unnecessary if they would have spent a dollar for good gasoline and oil. But this is a throw away society we live in, so let's just keep playing along I guess. 🤦♂️ Someone wants to cry about bad products, my collection of Poulans starts in 1971 and goes to 2009. They all run flawlessly, even the Strato motor Poulan. Bad Owners, Bad Oil, Bad Choices.
I'm trying to figure out where we are going with this video, I did subscribe and hope you will reciprocate. The blue con rod scares the hell out of me, it got real Hot!!! I'm running Sabre at 50:1. Occasionally i will run canned fuel to "clean out" the fuel system. I don't tear it apart unless it is required
On the 660, that was not the original top end. I did have to replace the carb. Whoever rebuilt it last just tuned around the wonkey carb. Yes, the big end got hot, but the bearing is still fine. Stick with Saber. Hands down it's a better oil than any of the manufactures oil.
@@richardflagg3084 I run Amsoil in everything I own. We used this in the Race cars 600Hp 8000 RPM and 290 degrees engine temp
The last couple years I've been trying different oils. The 16+ years prior to falling down this rabbit hole😂... for handheld OPE, it all got echo power blend or husqvarna xp. Somewhere between 40/50:1 with pump gas. Sometimes e-free, sometimes e-10🤦♂️ then about 9-10 years ago I changed to almost exclusively canned fuel. Sometimes the 4 cycle version and mixed my own oil in, typically the pre mixed versions. Last 2-3 years have all been self mixed. (I don't make a living running saws and 2-t equipment. If I did, anything north of $10 a gallon would be out of question.) Have had no oil related "failures" personally but have seen plenty over the years to know it really does matter what oil and fuel one uses! I have seen build-up similar to that from husky xp+ and ethanol laced gas in a very high hour husky brush cutter.
Aaron and John Bob got me started on the maxima castor 927 @32:1 and after 10 months, I'm still really liking what I'm seeing! Plenty of oil in bottom ends and almost no build-up!
Also just recently picked up some aspen2 to try in trimmers and blowers, just because local my dealer got some in😅 best believe it ain't going near my favorite saws anytime soon! Not at 50:1.
Keep e'm coming Rich! Thanks for putting in all the time and effort👍🏻
I've got a couple of sample quarts of Aspen2. I'll run a tank through something for science and stuff.
@@richardflagg3084 sweet! Look forward to it!
That comes from dull Chainsaw chain