@@Gerhard_booysen bs these guitars have had lots of string sets in 60 years. You'd know a major difference not due to strings. I did the same to my 58 J45 back in 92/93 and it made a big difference especially in low end response. Couldn't be happier with it these many years later.
@@camilo1455 Not sure what having many sets of strings on this guitar has to do with anything. The biggest tonal difference in the before & after is due to the new strings. If you don't believe me, do a before & after audio recording the next time you replace your acoustic guitar strings.
@@iamamish I should have said "this guitar has had a lot of string changes through the years; not one of those changes makes as much difference as modifying the bridge in this manner."
@@camilo1455 I see, makes sense. I think the majority of the change in tone is coming from new strings. I’m sure part of it is the bridge but unless you know the guitar sound really well it’s hard to know which change to attribute to which elements of the tone change.
Thank you for the before and after sound check. That's very handy for those of us who might never have run into this type of repair. The after sounded richer, with a bit more sustain, to my ear. The slight tinny sound from the before was mellowed right out. As always, a great video.
I had a similar Gibson, but the saddle was porcelain. I took it apart, put in a piece of mahogany tall enough to bring the saddle to height and put the hardware back in place. Sounded like this one. Big, bold, take no prisoners. Great video.
I know very little about guitars, and just a tad about woodwork. But coming home after work, I'm happy to view your videos. They have a calming effect on me...
Wow... now it sparkles... I often wondered about this alteration. I've a '52 J-50 with a standard bridge... it's been through hell and back... looks like it's time to shave down the bridge... hate doing it... but it's on its 3rd bridge since I've owned it... 1985... still sounds amazing.
i did a similar j45 job. i did not make a rosewood plug for the hole, and made a tall bone saddle that rested right on the top wood. sounded incredible!
Sharing your dedication to detail as a luthier/repairman makes me proud. I am sure your work inspires newer persons taking on the challenge to always offer their best. I have been in this world since about 1970, but beginning in 1964 doing inlay work. I did it first on my own guitars and have continued, adding building in '70. Again, thank you.
I have a 65 j-50 (j-45 with a natural top). A few years ago I decided to put on a normal bridge, remove the hardware from the top and replace the bridgeplate from ply maple to solid maple and decrease the size considerably. So now it's to 50's spec. The guitar is only worth less than 2k, which means it's not even worth a new one, so what the heck. It was a success, as the bass is boomier and it is substantially louder. These mid 60's j-50s are lightly braced and the back as well uses 1/4" bracing that isn't very tall. It has a ton of tubby bass now. Totally worth the effort. Cost me about $380 back in 2018.
I have one of these as well, and was pleased with the results when the whole bridge was replaced with a more normal arrangement. You did a nice job of making it reversible...
Usually when I hear comparisons played over my computer's speakers, it's a shrug of the shoulders. This difference, however, was crystal clear. I loved the thoughtfulness of making the mod reversible. Reminds me of watching restorations of paintings online where reversibility of their work is the first commandment. Yes, you could glue it all in then cut it out later, but I like the aesthetics of this change. And I, for one, also like that you can see how and where the change was made as a testament to the guitar's history.
Brilliant modification. I like it. The difference is substantial for the better while retaining original capacity. Congrats for thinking out of the box with an elegant solution. TY MH
I replaced a similar adjustable (not a Gibson) with a TUSQ PQ-9025-00 (from GraphTech). It is a one piece slab that is big enough to shape to exactly fit the bridge slot. Will lift right out if I want to go back to the adjustable.
I actually did this to my "65" Epiphone Texan and it's awesome sounding. And it can go back to stock, just like you did. My ends weren't as beautifully fit, like yours though, as much as I tried to keep the ends perfectly rounded out just wasn't , but they were very close. But that doesn't bother me. Thanks so much for this video.
What a beauty, sounds great! If it were mine, that ugly pickup would have to go. If plugging in is necessary, I would get one that mounts under the soundboard.
There was indeed a bit of buzz in the treble end on that first "how it plays" portion of the video. I do not have a great ear and I could hear that. I do enjoy watching someone working who is good at their job. Also like they way you left it possible to return to stock form. Two thumbs up.
Through crappy UA-cam sound quality the difference is like night & day, it sounds much more dynamic & Crisp with much better mid tones, imagine how much better those old sixties songs would have been if they modified them back then. Always great content 👍
You sir inspire me with your attention to detail. I want to aspire to be a luther some day. You confirmed my thoughts on a tall bridge causing an increase of torque on the top resulting in belying. I can't help in thinking that the more relaxed a top is the easier it is to set into motion making the guitar louder and more responsive... Thank you so much for your videos.
I love my own J45, and have only played a couple (over a half century now) that I thought were not warm, punchy, even-toned, and downright sultry. The adjustable saddle thingamajig? SUCKO SUPREMO...I get it, but no thanks. Your solution to plug up the old slot was smart and safe (no surprise, at'all). I'll personally offer to throttle the Earthian that reinserts the tarnished silverware. As always, a great video...I, like a growing army of your fans, look forward to more. Thanks, Northern Brother.
Nice!!👍🤘 🎵🎸 I've been playing for about 16 years myself... but it wasn't until recently that my playing has drastically improved. There is this teacher on UA-cam, his name is Stitch. And he is freakin awesome. I'll put a link to one of hus lessons. Btw, i just learned a Beatles tune that I'm super excited about. I'll put that link as well.
Stitchmethod - ua-cam.com/video/SHKjSBV0n3w/v-deo.html Beatles - "should have known better", ua-cam.com/video/5fGZxoOmnhE/v-deo.html Really great song and easy to play
Bought a large bag of vintage picks at an estate sale. Among the picks was a broken j45 saddle taped to a handmade adjustable rosewood saddle. This estate sale had a lot of handmade/diy guitar stuff. Someday hope to throw it into a j45
You can definitely hear clearer note when you come down the neck and to me the twang as gone makes a real difference and a brilliant idea with the plug to save the originally of the guitar
I love my 63 southern jumbo- plastic bridge and all. No changes here. Also i like being able to adjust my action based on different music i play. To each their own.
You had to be very satisfied with that result.... like you freed a prisoner from the slings and arrows of entropy.... like a blind person getting sight🎶👍
Sounds different fo’ sure. I don’t know if “better” necessarily- that’s subjective...maybe for live playing but there was something about the adjustable bridge that made them fantastic in the studio. Sort of a built-in comp/limiter that lets them sit in the mix. In any case like you said all the music ppl my age love was recorded on them so can’t be all bad. But super workmanship as always!
Good repair and a good video. Nice to have a Luthier show his work and not just another hack doing hack work like so many other "so called" YT Luthiers.
I encourage anybody with an acoustic guitar that has an adjustable bridge to do this. I did it to my childhood guitar, a Fender f-65, and it's a whole new guitar.
Great vid as always and you can hear the improvement but man, the Automatic Gain Control is really distracting. I've never found a phone that has an option to disable that but a Logitech webcam straight into the PC does the trick. Thanks for posting!
My 68 J-45 has the same type of crackling in the finish.. when the bridge lifted off in the 80s I had a Gibson luthier replace it with a whole new bridge. I love the mellow (aged) sound it makes. And, like your owners, would never sell it. Well, if someone gave me $100K, I might consider it. ;)
Nice job! The best sounding J45’s I’ve played have had the old adjustable bridge saddles but it’s down to taste. The guitar sounded a bit brighter after the replacement saddle was fitted but I preferred the tone with the original saddle, it just sounded right to me.
To put down the adjustable vintage either ceramic or rosewood saddle inserts is amateurish. They generated some of the most intriguing 'modern' acoustic sounds ever and is heard on tons of classic songs. Beatles, Stones, James Taylor, Donovan, Pentangle (Renbourn) to name a few. The Tune-O-Matic concept worked very fine too.
Honestly, that was probably just new strings. I imagine it’d be difficult to pick up on any real changes through a camera mic on a UA-cam video. I’m sure both saddles sounded great, once the guitar is properly setup.
Very very nice work that you do. I not only enjoyed watching a craftsman at work, but learned a few pointers as well. * Could you please share what brand dial calipers you're using. Very hard to read on the video. I was going to buy a digital version, but unsure if that is a better choice. Thanks and all the best. Phil Jersey Shore Area
People talk about the sound getting too bright...I agree. I did the same thing with my 58 J45 in 93 and it picked up a lot of low end response. No one out-booms my guitar. Weird, I wonder what the difference was...wait a minute. I took the screws & spring steel out and dropped in a spruce shim (3 layers to get the height right), and am using the original saddle (untouched). Its pretty massive, always assumed it's bone. And definitely a bone nut.
Wish it were my Guitar, is my main takeaway, I’m Embarrassed to admit. Kind of childish of me, but it’s the one I’ve always wanted. Had a Lyle Hummingbird as a Kid, that was stolen as the fitting result of a stupid move... and have had an empty spot in my Heart from then till now. It was a great acoustic, that had the adjustable bridge... and it was really good. Aaaand very useful for me. Ok ok... gotta stop thinking about it... Although I completely disagree with the change made... well done! Best way to do what they asked you to do. Strings do sound good, though!! Great work!!!
I love the adjustable saddle on my 66' Ventura V20 Folk Guitar. I also have a 68'/69' VOX 6 string acoustic. Interestingly enough I found a video of a guy who claimes that Ramble On by Led Zeppelin was recorded with that guitar. So i agree, its a preference. Some people that i respect hate the adjustable saddle. But I cant be the only one out there that loves them.
Usually changing out the saddle makes a better sound but in this 45 it Seemed to have lost the vintage sound. After the conversion the guitar sound very bright and almost tinny. Did you consider the Tusq saddle that’s made a a drop in replacement? The rosewood insert looks great, nice job.
I'm considering getting a cheep acoustic guitar and doing a conversion yo have one of these bridges to see what its like. Also I don't like constant having to loosen the strings off to take the saddle out to shave it down to get the action lower. So because of this, the action on my acoustic is higher than I'd like it to be, and when I do do this to adjust the hight there tends to be a lot of string breakages
Nice work. I actually prefer the tone of the ceramic saddle. I wonder what the change in tone would be if you replaced the entire bridge AND the big laminated bridge plate.
I don't know...My acoustic has an adjustable saddle and I love it. Big full sound and a great action. And decent intonation. It also has a bolt-on neck, a 0th fret, and three bolts in the bridge holding it down. Broke all the illusions I had. What it comes down to is a solid spruce top and mahogany back and sides... If anybody wants to know, it's an Eko Ranger VI VR. Quality for a great price...one of my best investments
I was listening with Sennheiser HD595 headphones and it's really hard to tell the difference mainly because there seems to be a limiter effect on the recording. The sustain on open strings does seem better but I'm not hearing a huge difference in tone. I guess that means the old bridge wasn't as much as a factor in the sound as I thought and that is surprising. I really expected to hear more low end and overall more volume and it just didn't happen. If it were my guitar I would still want your mod if for no other reason because it is just more comfortable to play. Those screw heads sticking up are hell on the strumming hand. I've had other brands of guitars with those adjustable saddles and I had the entire bridge replaced and slotted for a standard saddle. The Alvarez guitar I had done did improve some and was much easier on the hand. I have heard that the Yamaha FG-300 also sounds better without the adjustable bridge but really only in the sustain and note decay, the overall tone is still intact.
I think a lot of the comments here suffer from confirmation bias. What I hear is a balance shift, and a gain in responsiveness. It different, I can't say for sure it's better. The original saddle adds a bunch of mass , it makes the guitar more bass heavy, which is not a bad thing on an acoustic. I've repaired a couple of these and I must admit I didn't feel the sound suffered from the original saddle setup, they work well. Although it does cut the attack speed down and responsiveness down somewhat. It would be interesting to know how the bass developed as the guitar settled in with the new saddle.
????? I'm just starting out working on my guitars. I recently bought a little Enya Go travel guitar. Carbon fiber guitar that came with an uncompensated saddle. Someone told me you have videos about how to compensate a saddle. Could you point me toward them? I am 82 years old. Kind of late to get into Luthrie but I would love to know how to work on my own guitars. I have been watching Jerry Rosa's videos also but the actual saddle compensations are done off video for the most part. Thanks. Forgot to mention. On the Enya intonation is sharp at the 12th on at least three strings.
Very nice work. I'm trying to make a decision on basically the same situation and would appreciate your thoughts: Would using a wider piece of bone and shaping it to fit and seat into the original space the bridge already has cut into it (directly onto the soundboard) be a faulty approach? Or, another angle of the same curiosity, was the decision to seat the bone saddle inside of a separate rosewood insert one that was made for mostly aesthetic reasons? Or is there a sonic or structural reason to that approach? Thanks for your time!
I had the adjustable on my '67 Gibson Country Western replaced in exactly the way you described - the "wide piece of bone shap[ed] to fit an seat into the original space the bridge already has cut into it" - and I am now thinking of having a rosewood/insert like this one fabricated instead, to allow for a narrower point of contact with the string.. My original thought was 'wider bone, more sound transfer onto top', but since getting it back I'm noticing the lower E, A & D strings are definitely not as 'crisp/bitey' as I want... and I can't help but think its because more of the string is 'wrapped' around the saddle, as opposed to being set off at a cleaner 'single point' break angle. I've also read comments RE: pressure transfer, saying that a wider area of string contact also means that the pressure will be lessened since it is more 'dispersed' across a wider area, whereas had it all been localized at a single break point, the downward pressure to the top (which translates to resonance) would be greater. Both would be welcome improvements in my case.. Now I just have to convince my luthier to do it If you know of any good threads on this, please let me know.. this one is difficult to find
@@matrixInvader I ended up having a local guy replace the saddle on a '68 Country Western on mine (which is why I asked the question to begin with)... My guy replaced it with a wide bone insert that filled the totality of the bridge slot. I dont have a comparison against how my guitar would sound with the method Woodford did here to see which method of conversion is better, but I can confidently say that the wide saddle conversion that I now have on the Country Western (seated directly on the soundboard) sounds head and shoulders better than the ADJ saddle that was originally on the instrument
Got a question for you. I have an 70's Yamaha 12 string and I have not touched it at all. The body has a bulge at the bridge and is now bowed out. How would you handle the repair to make it playable again. Keeping originality is not very high for me but if possible I would love to keep it but its not really important for me just a plus.
It’s a big improvement! I couldn’t believe how much more crisp and full it sounds. They made the right decision. 👌🏻
its most likely the new strings that made the biggest difference
@@Gerhard_booysen bs these guitars have had lots of string sets in 60 years. You'd know a major difference not due to strings. I did the same to my 58 J45 back in 92/93 and it made a big difference especially in low end response. Couldn't be happier with it these many years later.
@@camilo1455 Not sure what having many sets of strings on this guitar has to do with anything. The biggest tonal difference in the before & after is due to the new strings. If you don't believe me, do a before & after audio recording the next time you replace your acoustic guitar strings.
@@iamamish I should have said "this guitar has had a lot of string changes through the years; not one of those changes makes as much difference as modifying the bridge in this manner."
@@camilo1455 I see, makes sense. I think the majority of the change in tone is coming from new strings. I’m sure part of it is the bridge but unless you know the guitar sound really well it’s hard to know which change to attribute to which elements of the tone change.
Thank you for the before and after sound check. That's very handy for those of us who might never have run into this type of repair. The after sounded richer, with a bit more sustain, to my ear. The slight tinny sound from the before was mellowed right out. As always, a great video.
Yeah, and thanks for not singing over the guitar like others do when they do a repair. Such a nuisance, and a waste of a great repair video :)
I had a similar Gibson, but the saddle was porcelain. I took it apart, put in a piece of mahogany tall enough to bring the saddle to height and put the hardware back in place. Sounded like this one. Big, bold, take no prisoners. Great video.
A good solution. Thanks for preserving originality.
I know very little about guitars, and just a tad about woodwork. But coming home after work, I'm happy to view your videos. They have a calming effect on me...
Its really a joy to watch such a knowledgeable and skilled craftsman.
Wow... now it sparkles...
I often wondered about this alteration.
I've a '52 J-50 with a standard bridge... it's been through hell and back... looks like it's time to shave down the bridge... hate doing it... but it's on its 3rd bridge since I've owned it... 1985... still sounds amazing.
Very interesting change in tone, and the process is fascinating. Thanks for sharing it with us.
I have played many J 45s with adjustable bridges that sound fabulous. But this is a nice restoration/modification job. Well done!
My 64 Hummingbird has an adjustable bridge. There is no way I would take it out. It sounds amazing.
Much nicer! Great video, love how you can explain the whys and what-fors so well while you’re doing it.
i did a similar j45 job. i did not make a rosewood plug for the hole, and made a tall bone saddle that rested right on the top wood. sounded incredible!
Sharing your dedication to detail as a luthier/repairman makes me proud. I am sure your work inspires newer persons taking on the challenge to always offer their best. I have been in this world since about 1970, but beginning in 1964 doing inlay work. I did it first on my own guitars and have continued, adding building in '70. Again, thank you.
I have a 65 j-50 (j-45 with a natural top). A few years ago I decided to put on a normal bridge, remove the hardware from the top and replace the bridgeplate from ply maple to solid maple and decrease the size considerably. So now it's to 50's spec. The guitar is only worth less than 2k, which means it's not even worth a new one, so what the heck. It was a success, as the bass is boomier and it is substantially louder. These mid 60's j-50s are lightly braced and the back as well uses 1/4" bracing that isn't very tall. It has a ton of tubby bass now. Totally worth the effort. Cost me about $380 back in 2018.
Perfect as usual...wish you had time to post more, but glad to have another new one to watch.
I have one of these as well, and was pleased with the results when the whole bridge was replaced with a more normal arrangement. You did a nice job of making it reversible...
Usually when I hear comparisons played over my computer's speakers, it's a shrug of the shoulders. This difference, however, was crystal clear. I loved the thoughtfulness of making the mod reversible. Reminds me of watching restorations of paintings online where reversibility of their work is the first commandment. Yes, you could glue it all in then cut it out later, but I like the aesthetics of this change. And I, for one, also like that you can see how and where the change was made as a testament to the guitar's history.
Brilliant modification. I like it. The difference is substantial for the better while retaining original capacity. Congrats for thinking out of the box with an elegant solution. TY MH
I replaced a similar adjustable (not a Gibson) with a TUSQ PQ-9025-00 (from GraphTech). It is a one piece slab that is big enough to shape to exactly fit the bridge slot. Will lift right out if I want to go back to the adjustable.
I actually did this to my "65" Epiphone Texan and it's awesome sounding. And it can go back to stock, just like you did. My ends weren't as beautifully fit, like yours though, as much as I tried to keep the ends perfectly rounded out just wasn't , but they were very close. But that doesn't bother me. Thanks so much for this video.
Definite improvement! Clarity and a little sparkle. Nice job as usual Mr. Woodford. Always educational.
What a beauty, sounds great! If it were mine, that ugly pickup would have to go. If plugging in is necessary, I would get one that mounts under the soundboard.
5:58 there is nothing like the sound of a well sharpened plane in the morning
@@garywhitt98 Why did you reply that to this guy?
Oh yes, exactly what I felt when I watched.
Nicely done! I actually like the look of the border around the plug and it lets the next guy know it may not be glued in.
There was indeed a bit of buzz in the treble end on that first "how it plays" portion of the video. I do not have a great ear and I could hear that. I do enjoy watching someone working who is good at their job. Also like they way you left it possible to return to stock form. Two thumbs up.
Through crappy UA-cam sound quality the difference is like night & day, it sounds much more dynamic & Crisp with much better mid tones, imagine how much better those old sixties songs would have been if they modified them back then. Always great content 👍
The after sound is great and the plug looks very good !!! Great job 👏👏👏👍🇬🇧
A remarkable improvement in tone, clarity and note separation, plus a beautifully executed inlay into the bridge. Definitely worth doing.
Ted it's really cool that you get that "sshhhikk" sound in your vids from the chisel and plane, I love it! Thanks man.
You sir inspire me with your attention to detail. I want to aspire to be a luther some day. You confirmed my thoughts on a tall bridge causing an increase of torque on the top resulting in belying. I can't help in thinking that the more relaxed a top is the easier it is to set into motion making the guitar louder and more responsive...
Thank you so much for your videos.
Just an incredible “fix”.. Nice work Ted!!
I’m really appreciating the preciseness of your work. It’s a pleasure to watch. Great job! 👍
Wow. The difference in tone, on the High E and B strings is phenomenal, with the new bridge saddle.
Wow 😳 That is a major improvement in sound!
I miss the "Hey gang!"
I love my own J45, and have only played a couple (over a half century now) that I thought were not warm, punchy, even-toned, and downright sultry. The adjustable saddle thingamajig? SUCKO SUPREMO...I get it, but no thanks. Your solution to plug up the old slot was smart and safe (no surprise, at'all). I'll personally offer to throttle the Earthian that reinserts the tarnished silverware. As always, a great video...I, like a growing army of your fans, look forward to more. Thanks, Northern Brother.
Great video. You have incredible patience. Beautiful work as always.
You make these repairs look way to easy to perform. It shows your skill level.
Definite sound improvement
(in my opinion) and just an incredible conversion !!!
Quality 👍👍
Absolutely incredible! What amazing craftsmanship!
Do you play guitar??
@@heisrisen9893 yes! Not well, but I’ve played for about 35 years.
Nice!!👍🤘 🎵🎸 I've been playing for about 16 years myself... but it wasn't until recently that my playing has drastically improved.
There is this teacher on UA-cam, his name is Stitch. And he is freakin awesome. I'll put a link to one of hus lessons. Btw, i just learned a Beatles tune that I'm super excited about. I'll put that link as well.
Stitchmethod - ua-cam.com/video/SHKjSBV0n3w/v-deo.html
Beatles - "should have known better", ua-cam.com/video/5fGZxoOmnhE/v-deo.html
Really great song and easy to play
So awesome! I've been "Jonesin" for my twoodfrd fix....
Always
Bought a large bag of vintage picks at an estate sale. Among the picks was a broken j45 saddle taped to a handmade adjustable rosewood saddle. This estate sale had a lot of handmade/diy guitar stuff. Someday hope to throw it into a j45
Great vid, big difference in the sound, much more woody and sweet...great job, you are a master
You can definitely hear clearer note when you come down the neck and to me the twang as gone makes a real difference and a brilliant idea with the plug to save the originally of the guitar
I love my 63 southern jumbo- plastic bridge and all. No changes here. Also i like being able to adjust my action based on different music i play. To each their own.
You had to be very satisfied with that result.... like you freed a prisoner from the slings and arrows of entropy.... like a blind person getting sight🎶👍
Sounds different fo’ sure. I don’t know if “better” necessarily- that’s subjective...maybe for live playing but there was something about the adjustable bridge that made them fantastic in the studio. Sort of a built-in comp/limiter that lets them sit in the mix. In any case like you said all the music ppl my age love was recorded on them so can’t be all bad. But super workmanship as always!
Great Gibson and your improved model is a hit! Thanks 😊
I like the old sound, kind of mixing with some metal sound.
I agree with the comment about a dial caliper. It's a vital tool in your workshop. In my experience, they are better than digital vernier calipers.
Good repair and a good video. Nice to have a Luthier show his work and not just another hack doing hack work like so many other "so called" YT Luthiers.
Great work, looks and sounds better. I’m sure you’ve made it play better as well. Should be a happy customer.
I encourage anybody with an acoustic guitar that has an adjustable bridge to do this. I did it to my childhood guitar, a Fender f-65, and it's a whole new guitar.
Great work again that guitar sounds so much sharper very nice sound
Great vid as always and you can hear the improvement but man, the Automatic Gain Control is really distracting. I've never found a phone that has an option to disable that but a Logitech webcam straight into the PC does the trick. Thanks for posting!
That made a big difference. I think it looks better too. Nice work!👍😎🎸🎶
nice job sir!! thinking ahead if yomeone wants to change back in the future, they can without problems. nice really nice!
My 68 J-45 has the same type of crackling in the finish.. when the bridge lifted off in the 80s I had a Gibson luthier replace it with a whole new bridge. I love the mellow (aged) sound it makes. And, like your owners, would never sell it. Well, if someone gave me $100K, I might consider it. ;)
Great work as always. Thanks for sharing your craft with us.
I went back and listened a couple of times without looking and I liked the new sound better
Meticulous work as usual. thanks for sharing. Great sounding guitar!
Sounds sharper more full sound great job Ted
That guitar has a beautiful sound
Good creative job :-)
However, the before/after comparison is not really fair/easy to judge, since I assume that you have put on new strings.
It really does make a difference taking out that adjustable saddle
That plug looks beautiful
Wow! Beautiful work, thanks for sharing.
Nice job! The best sounding J45’s I’ve played have had the old adjustable bridge saddles but it’s down to taste. The guitar sounded a bit brighter after the replacement saddle was fitted but I preferred the tone with the original saddle, it just sounded right to me.
Yeah, same here. Preferred the slight vintage subdued highs to the bright modern sound.
To put down the adjustable vintage either ceramic or rosewood saddle inserts is amateurish. They generated some of the most intriguing 'modern' acoustic sounds ever and is heard on tons of classic songs. Beatles, Stones, James Taylor, Donovan, Pentangle (Renbourn) to name a few.
The Tune-O-Matic concept worked very fine too.
Pete Townsend had a J200 with Tune O Matic style bridge saddles, it sounded great to me.
Honestly, that was probably just new strings. I imagine it’d be difficult to pick up on any real changes through a camera mic on a UA-cam video. I’m sure both saddles sounded great, once the guitar is properly setup.
Very very nice work that you do. I not only enjoyed watching a craftsman at work, but learned a few pointers as well.
*
Could you please share what brand dial calipers you're using. Very hard to read on the video. I was going to buy a digital version, but unsure if that is a better choice. Thanks and all the best.
Phil
Jersey Shore Area
People talk about the sound getting too bright...I agree. I did the same thing with my 58 J45 in 93 and it picked up a lot of low end response. No one out-booms my guitar. Weird, I wonder what the difference was...wait a minute. I took the screws & spring steel out and dropped in a spruce shim (3 layers to get the height right), and am using the original saddle (untouched). Its pretty massive, always assumed it's bone. And definitely a bone nut.
Another expertly performed job! I really enjoy your videos.
Very nice intonation! 👍
You do some beautiful work. Definitely sounds better.
You take such good care of your customers. Sounds better.
Such amazing craftsmanship
Wish it were my Guitar, is my main takeaway, I’m Embarrassed to admit. Kind of childish of me, but it’s the one I’ve always wanted. Had a Lyle Hummingbird as a Kid, that was stolen as the fitting result of a stupid move... and have had an empty spot in my Heart from then till now. It was a great acoustic, that had the adjustable bridge... and it was really good. Aaaand very useful for me. Ok ok... gotta stop thinking about it...
Although I completely disagree with the change made... well done! Best way to do what they asked you to do. Strings do sound good, though!! Great work!!!
I love the adjustable saddle on my 66' Ventura V20 Folk Guitar. I also have a 68'/69' VOX 6 string acoustic. Interestingly enough I found a video of a guy who claimes that Ramble On by Led Zeppelin was recorded with that guitar. So i agree, its a preference. Some people that i respect hate the adjustable saddle. But I cant be the only one out there that loves them.
Nice video. Did you put new strings on after the mod? If so, then it's hard to know the difference here.
Usually changing out the saddle makes a better sound but in this 45 it
Seemed to have lost the vintage sound.
After the conversion the guitar sound very bright and almost tinny.
Did you consider the Tusq saddle that’s made a a drop in replacement?
The rosewood insert looks great, nice job.
Yeah I like the vintage sound especially when the thinnest string was hit a sound with personality
Would like to see a reply to this, I've just ordered one for an 80's Suzuki that has the height adjustable bridge.
I'm considering getting a cheep acoustic guitar and doing a conversion yo have one of these bridges to see what its like. Also I don't like constant having to loosen the strings off to take the saddle out to shave it down to get the action lower. So because of this, the action on my acoustic is higher than I'd like it to be, and when I do do this to adjust the hight there tends to be a lot of string breakages
Great video thank you very much. At 6:50 if it fits tight enough, no need of glue then?
Wonderful work. Chapeau!
Wow..great repair and a great video. Thank you!
Wow huge difference after the mod. Tinny before, now the mods and highs are much nicer.
You are a legend, sir! So inspiring.
Nice work. I actually prefer the tone of the ceramic saddle. I wonder what the change in tone would be if you replaced the entire bridge AND the big laminated bridge plate.
I don't know...My acoustic has an adjustable saddle and I love it. Big full sound and a great action. And decent intonation. It also has a bolt-on neck, a 0th fret, and three bolts in the bridge holding it down. Broke all the illusions I had. What it comes down to is a solid spruce top and mahogany back and sides...
If anybody wants to know, it's an Eko Ranger VI VR. Quality for a great price...one of my best investments
Good work !!!
And there is a better action for the playing tone now.
Nice clean work brother 🎶
sounds brighter and more detailed with the mod
I was listening with Sennheiser HD595 headphones and it's really hard to tell the difference mainly because there seems to be a limiter effect on the recording. The sustain on open strings does seem better but I'm not hearing a huge difference in tone. I guess that means the old bridge wasn't as much as a factor in the sound as I thought and that is surprising. I really expected to hear more low end and overall more volume and it just didn't happen. If it were my guitar I would still want your mod if for no other reason because it is just more comfortable to play. Those screw heads sticking up are hell on the strumming hand. I've had other brands of guitars with those adjustable saddles and I had the entire bridge replaced and slotted for a standard saddle. The Alvarez guitar I had done did improve some and was much easier on the hand. I have heard that the Yamaha FG-300 also sounds better without the adjustable bridge but really only in the sustain and note decay, the overall tone is still intact.
I would love to have a vintage J-45! They sound so damn good!
I think you did a great job, no disrespect, but from what I hear, I actually like the sound with adjustable saddle...my opinion..
He didn't wanna do it, the owner did🙂
Sounds like two different guitars. Good job.
I think I like “before” better. Not by a whole lot though. As long as the owners happy, it’s all good!
Both are good - but before really had character, , , even a touch of sexy rock'n'roll. .
@@Ziraffe2 What does three commas mean?
I think a lot of the comments here suffer from confirmation bias. What I hear is a balance shift, and a gain in responsiveness. It different, I can't say for sure it's better. The original saddle adds a bunch of mass , it makes the guitar more bass heavy, which is not a bad thing on an acoustic. I've repaired a couple of these and I must admit I didn't feel the sound suffered from the original saddle setup, they work well. Although it does cut the attack speed down and responsiveness down somewhat. It would be interesting to know how the bass developed as the guitar settled in with the new saddle.
Great job as usual...
How do we take into account the new strings comparing the old adjustable bridge sound ?
????? I'm just starting out working on my guitars. I recently bought a little Enya Go travel guitar. Carbon fiber guitar that came with an uncompensated saddle. Someone told me you have videos about how to compensate a saddle. Could you point me toward them? I am 82 years old. Kind of late to get into Luthrie but I would love to know how to work on my own guitars. I have been watching Jerry Rosa's videos also but the actual saddle compensations are done off video for the most part. Thanks. Forgot to mention. On the Enya intonation is sharp at the 12th on at least three strings.
And better intonation too! :) Good stuff.
Sounds brighter after the saddle mod.
Very nice work. I'm trying to make a decision on basically the same situation and would appreciate your thoughts: Would using a wider piece of bone and shaping it to fit and seat into the original space the bridge already has cut into it (directly onto the soundboard) be a faulty approach? Or, another angle of the same curiosity, was the decision to seat the bone saddle inside of a separate rosewood insert one that was made for mostly aesthetic reasons? Or is there a sonic or structural reason to that approach? Thanks for your time!
I had the adjustable on my '67 Gibson Country Western replaced in exactly the way you described - the "wide piece of bone shap[ed] to fit an seat into the original space the bridge already has cut into it" - and I am now thinking of having a rosewood/insert like this one fabricated instead, to allow for a narrower point of contact with the string..
My original thought was 'wider bone, more sound transfer onto top', but since getting it back I'm noticing the lower E, A & D strings are definitely not as 'crisp/bitey' as I want... and I can't help but think its because more of the string is 'wrapped' around the saddle, as opposed to being set off at a cleaner 'single point' break angle.
I've also read comments RE: pressure transfer, saying that a wider area of string contact also means that the pressure will be lessened since it is more 'dispersed' across a wider area, whereas had it all been localized at a single break point, the downward pressure to the top (which translates to resonance) would be greater.
Both would be welcome improvements in my case.. Now I just have to convince my luthier to do it
If you know of any good threads on this, please let me know.. this one is difficult to find
@@matrixInvader I ended up having a local guy replace the saddle on a '68 Country Western on mine (which is why I asked the question to begin with)... My guy replaced it with a wide bone insert that filled the totality of the bridge slot. I dont have a comparison against how my guitar would sound with the method Woodford did here to see which method of conversion is better, but I can confidently say that the wide saddle conversion that I now have on the Country Western (seated directly on the soundboard) sounds head and shoulders better than the ADJ saddle that was originally on the instrument
Got a question for you. I have an 70's Yamaha 12 string and I have not touched it at all. The body has a bulge at the bridge and is now bowed out. How would you handle the repair to make it playable again. Keeping originality is not very high for me but if possible I would love to keep it but its not really important for me just a plus.
See his video on the bridge doctor.