Mini fuel pump relay replacement Part 1
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- Опубліковано 6 тра 2023
- Part 1. Removal of fuse board SPEG, casing and circuit boards. The boards have to be separated to desolder the fuel pump relay.
kremersino.aliexpress.com/
“10Pins NEC Relay EP2F-B3G1ST“ - Авто та транспорт
Thanks for sharing. It helped me a lot identifying the issue with our Roadster (R59) start-issues so now and then until it refused to start at all. I had exactly the same problem with the burned-out soldering. Year of build 2012.
Glad it helped!
Yes, the dark discolouration indicated heat. The solder around the pin looks like a classic dry joint. I'm guessing the relay is heating up and melting the solder, or there was a dry joint, which has resistance and will also generate heat when the current flows.
Is there a video before this showing the issue, diagnosing fault that lead to removing this?
Is it possible that this would cause the fuel pump to actually work, but no throttle response? I replaced my fuel pump twice and it’s running because I hear it… but the car stalls on me randomly and I’m not sure what else it can be.
I replaced my battery
Alternator
Starter
Belt
Fuel pump
Fuel filter
Ignition coils
Cool pack
Spark plugs….
Don’t know why it stalls
Do you think this relay would result in "0" fuel trim readings on my Mini R58 as someone on a forum suggested this could be the cuase? Car starts but stalls easily at idle and has hiccups when driven, I have checked fuel rail pressure and this all seems good across the rev range but I see 0 being recorded for LT and ST fuel trim and my AFR jumps around from 12.65 - 17.3
Similar issue, I guess. I have a R60 2012 with 0 fuel reading. Replaced my fuel pump and found that the issue is actually in the junction box. Car runs fine though. I guess the relay overheats and loosens the soldering joints, which increases resistance on a line of fuel level indicator, triggering "low" or "0" fuel reading. Will check the circuit later after pulling my junction box out. The only concern I have right now is whether removing the junction box can cut power to firmware or not, which may require later reprogramming.
Thanks for the info chaps, yes I guess it would cause this zero fuel trim issue though I don’t know for sure. Let us know if it goes away when you reflow or replace the relay!
@@Realminishorts Yesterday, I pulled the junction box out, took out the circuit boards, and cut the connections for inspection. No mark of heating around the fuel pump relay, no bad soldering point, and the fuel pump works fine. Put them back and the zero-reading is still there. I have multiple things coming together, zero-fuel reading, unresponsive rear windows, and no-spray with front washer fluid not the rear. I believe these may relate to other relays or bad wiring terminals. Definitely something around the SPEG junction box. If I later identified the problem, I will let you guys know. : )
Sir, I have a relay that often burns, is my fuel pump damaged?....mini cooper r53 help me please
@Realminishorts my fuel gauge does not work properly and when i scanned the car i get *A875: SRA_RELAIS_NICHT_PLAUSIBEL* can be the same relay you changed causing the gauge issue ?
This doesn't control the fuel gauge though so I don't think so if that is your symptom. This one is only if you have car cutting out due to fuel pump getting intermittent power supplied. Although perhaps a different relay is used for the fuel gauge, but I don't know about that.
@@Realminishorts thank you for the reply/
you can also bypass the bad relay and hook the low pressure pump to the cigarette lighter instead, thats what i did on my 13 cooper s
thanks for the info, might help others.
do you mind me asking where you got the relay from ? thanks
Find ‘Kremersino Store’ on aliexpress. They have them. EP2F-B3G1ST.
kremersino.aliexpress.com/
Did you manage to replace it then? Did it work? Im actually in the same position 😅. Thnx a lot for the video anyway.
Sorry didnt see the following videos. Thanks again
yes I now posted them all. it worked.
@@xTheblackstar72x I don't think so. There is one pin that goes 'dry' normally. If it it still ok on yours then I would say your have a different problem. Or you could buy same fuse board secondhand but need to get it coded to your car. That would rule it out at least.
what year does this pertain ?
Generation 2 ie 2007 - 2016
Why not desolder the pins? Not like you didn't have the tools
that’s true. But at the time there was no info out there any the only other person I come across had snipped them, so I thought that had to be done and I didn’t realise they could be desoldered without snipping them. if I did it again I would do it different.
Terrible design. I remember a customers cooper s with a bad fuel pump relay. Dealer wanted to charge them a couple grand with an 8 month wait, meanwhile we found the cheap relay and charged diag and labor, saved the customer thousands and got it done in a week.
When this happen the ecm has communication or it doesn’t ?
You guys are lifesaver.