Man I have such respect for you. The way you approach different issues is top notch. I hope you keep doing what you do and know there are a lot of us who truly appreciate your effort into trying to educate us. Thanks Sandro.
As always, an astounding amount of wisdom and knowledge being dropped. We are quite lucky to have this channel and resource. I said it last episode- Correcting a ‘common’ car to me is far more powerful (in the right hands) than enhancing some exotic. This episode should give any detailer or enthusiast some evidence and inspiration to take-on vehicles that people need more than want. In my experience, the owner feels like they own an exotic in the end- and every detailer deserves to feel that feeling. Thank you Sandro for another amazing production.
My first car was an old white 82 Civic in the mid nineties and it was my sole car for almost 12yrs. Really wasn’t worth anything money wise, especially with over half a million kms on the clock. But that car was everything to me and probably the the best well kept and detailed early 80s Civic in the country. Real value is in the eye of the beholder and that car brought me so much joy!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing I’m on my 6th Civic, and 7th Honda. My first was an ‘87 hatchback, and I regret selling it. Worse than that though was my first car. I had the (now unicorn) ‘87 Nissan 200SX fastback. Not a single aftermarket product for it in the 90s, but in the rain I was drifting before it had a name. Can you imagine what we could do to it today? It’s bananas. Still forever grateful for those memories of my youth.
I’m always mind blown by Sandros raw mastery of the trade. I keep trying to sell paint enhancements to practice and get to this guys level it’s just hard being mobile! I’m even more blown away you only had 6 hours with the car and corrected the entire thing while recording, no compromised standards...unreal. God I wish you’d open a shop in California
My struggle is wanting to perfect every single car I do. Problem is I haven’t been able to tap the market (if it even exists where I am) that is willing to pay for “perfect”, aka high end work. Seeing this sort of work by you is nice.
Every detailer that really cares and takes pride in their work struggles with time vs quality of results, so you’re not alone there! If high end is what you really want to do, you have to give it time as it is a smaller market of clients that can and want to pay for that level of work, but in the mean time just keep going with whatever work comes your way and you’ll get there!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing we should not take pride is anything. We should thank God for giving us the ability to succeed at what we do, not thank ourselves.
You’re not alone! It’s about building your business right. 1)Don’t advertise to people who don’t care about their car. 2) document your work well as in take good before pictures identifying problems people have, then good after pictures showing how you’ve solved everyone’s problems conveniently & quickly, just not cheaply😉3) uncompromising results everytime Also, you can’t do what Sandro does without a shop of your own. Even I’ve got a promaster 1500 and can’t replicate Sandros business model
I’m not talking about being a narcissist and dwelling in my own glory when I take pride in my work, but I guess you can take pride too far and self indulge. I’m just referring to knowing you’ve do the best you can and in this case doing right but your customers - you can call it what you like, but it’s not about elevating myself to replace God, it’s about conduction myself and my morals as best I can. I understand where you’re coming from with pride in scripture but don’t let the loose term of the word define it as a single thing when that’s not the context here 🙂
Sandro, fantasic video yet again The POSTMAN IS BACK You have the best one step process in the business Thats because the POSTMAN always buffs ONCE I would like to thank you for this video you have confirmed what i have been trying to teach at my work I used to do all the teaching but now its left to others They teach the HOW but do it badly I teach the HOW but just as equally important is to teach the WHY If you know the WHY then you can understand what the paint is telling you so you can change your technique to suit Ater 4 years of doing it all wrong because of my lack of understanding my work now is just so much better beacuse i understand the WHY I have 2-3 hours tops to do the inside and out of the car so i just bought a new buff i use a 5inch shinematt ex620 Its a beast compared to my older 5 inch DA If you IMPROVE by 1% everyday within a year you have imprved by 365%. Dont be AFRAID of improving slowly be AFRIAD of STANDING STILL in sandro we trust
Couldn’t agree more mate! The Why is what gives a person direction so they can understand the purpose and also address issues along the way. A lot of little improvements in working efficiently certainly do add up and can make all the difference in the end! Thanks as always mate!
Thanks to you and your generosity and experience I can follow step by step and now have the mild confidence to polish my car to achieve a fantastic finish. I can honestly say if not for these incredibly detailed videos I would never have attempted this on a new car as this is so far out of my comfort zone, I pretty much run your videos as I'm working so not to stuff up. Thanks again much appreciated, Brenton. Some people are born with a Silver Spoon in their mouth, I think you may have been born with a DA Polisher in one hand and a Rotary in the other! 😁
Yes Sir~! i really like my rotary with Lake Country Lamb wool pads , cuts to the chase and finishes well on many different paint. i use 3D One with a few drops of 3D ACA500 if needed on deeper defects for one step, Microfiber Pad with the 15 'DA is also an option but the heat rises faster , depends on hardness of paint as usual. Love Your Work! ;-)
Hi There Professor ! Another Awesome Job ! For Sure Your MASTER CLASSES Help Amazingly Well Professor ! By The Way, There Are Other Professionals Like Yourself Who Share The Same Opinion About Detailing. They Affirm That The Most Important For a Good Result, No Doubt, Is Technique Over Machines and Products. Talking About Technique, I Have a Doubt About If We Can Apply The IPA and Remove The Compound Immediately After Finishing Working With The Polisher, Or if We Should Wait For the Treated Surface to Cool Down To Do So. I Imagine That This Cooling Time Is Not Shown Because of The Editing of The Videos, I Mean, So That They Are Not Too Long. Is That Correct Professor ? Sorry For The Obvious Doubts, But Me, As a Real “Weekend Warrior”, Have Them, Among a Bunch of Others 😁 ! Many Thanks Professor ! Best Regards 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Ed
The best way to find the right technique is to let the results you see in front of you guide you. So if you find that you are creating a lot of heat and that the paint is sensitive to the point that an IPA wipe mars the paint, then you adjust that technique - which can be waiting for the paint to cool, finding a better cloth and using a more gentle approach. I discussed that very point on the video I did on the Pontiac Firebird. But if you’re not having an issue then you don’t need to adjust. Listening to others can sometimes certainly help, but the best thing you can do is assess and respond to your own results, and if the outcome is safe, effective and efficient it doesn’t matter what or how you do it or what others tell you is right or wrong 🙂
That was very helpful, Sandro. I'm a 52-year-old who has just recently begun to take better care of mine and my family's vehicles. I've discovered in the process that I really love detailing. But I've never had the nerve yet to try using a DA polisher to do paint correction/enhancement. Someday I will, and I really appreciate the knowledge and experience you shared here. I do have a couple of newbie questions, if you don't mind. 1. How do you determine what you will and won't tape off when you polish? 2. Do you also polish the windows? Thanks again, Sandro!
Awesome to hear mate and I’m sure you’ll do great at polishing as well! If the trims can’t/shouldn’t be polished such as matte/satin/textured finishes then I’ll mask them, but many gloss finished trims can and should be polished. It also depends on the level of correction I’m pursuing and how aggressive I’ll need to be. So for lighter and quicker jobs I mask less as there’s less risk and time, but for bigger jobs when I’m additionally using heavier cut, I’ll mask more to mitigate that risk and pursue higher levels of correction. Given the time I’ll also polish glass to deep clean it and certainly if I’m applying a glass coating over it to ensure the best bond.
Awesome video mate! I know how long time it goes into doing them and that is on top of the actual work :D What is essential and what you touched upon on the video is setting your own/customers/friends ... expectations. I have learned that being a father of two, having a job, having a house to look after etc the 95%+ plus jobs are not possible not even on my own beloved cars. There isn't simply not enough time or space for me to reach what I would like to have. I have learnt and still learning on how to use one polish and one type of pad and get to an end-result which would be more than enough for most people. But on the other hand car folks/detailers/hobbyists are not like other people :D. On our own cars I am trying to mitigate the work in the garage by only closing doors by pushing on the handles, not closing the decklid on top of the decklid etc... I remind the family on a daily basis haha I have now tried the same combo for some time and I think I am ready to change out the polish to test something else out and see if that works better for my use. One has to also remember some of this stuff can get quite expensive if one opts to have multiple of everything and that is just for the chems/polish/compounds etc disregarding the actual machines and toys. Specially if one only does as a hobby and it does not generated any income. I am repeating the obvious here but well well also I do appreciate you putting out the videos as it is hard work just doing that part
I think the older I get the more I realise that time (or lack of it) is the most valuable commodity we have to offer and many of us struggle with knowing how to best spend and manage it! So there can be a real beauty and benefit in simplifying things - whether it be detailing or really any other tasks we pursue and complete! Thanks mate and I hope you enjoy this series!
Hey Sandro, another awesome video, I've actually just been trying out classic polish at work, and found it to work really well with the rupes yellow wool pad on mazda paint. It finishes awesome and has plenty of cut to get the job done when working with brand new cars.
Sandro, it seems I have started look for some imperfections in your vids and you know what? - nothing was found))) Just joking, another great lesson (actually several of them in one video), great tips and tricks and amazing result. This explains how the son loves his mother! Can I use an opportunity and ask you an advice? My rims were coated by CarPro Cquarts DeLuxe a year ago and of course I see decreased functionality of DeLuxe especially on winter rims where TarX used every wash (approx weekly). And I see some light scrathes inside after washing with woolies. I am thinking to use CarPro Essence + as it wil fill scratches and will make hydrofobic effect by its own. And I hope it will survive 6 winter months of use. Not an issue to repeat the procedure after every season (or before) as I am switching from summer to winter myself and always detail rims before store them for the next season in garage. Thanks for letting me know if this idea is very stupid or not very stupid))) Cheers from Sweden.
Thank you mate, and yes I think using Essence Plus to clean and fill some defects can be a great way to get another season out of the rims with some good protection. I would say that after polishing with Essence Plus try to add a good sealant on top a few hours later as that should help seal the finish for longer.
Hi Sandro - I've seen tens, probably hundreds of your videos this is without doubt one of my favourites. It's nice to see both an acceptance of and tips for one-step work. I enjoy chasing a 90-95% plus level on my own cars, and some high-end work but on 80% of the rest I don't have the time, budget or even motivation, knowing the owners do not care for their cars as I do.. it's just wasted time, money and clearcoat in these cases! Because of these factors most work I do involves a single cut and finish stage and your channel has been key to providing the theory and practical tips to really push the boundaries of what is possible within restrictions I have, normally a day's worth of polishing time, sometimes even working outdoors. This video as always is greatly appreciated. I have always meant to ask, do you go through a lot of NV Clarity or do you just use the bottle for a homemade IPA mix? As good as Eraser, Prep and Clarity are, I use so much of them that they had become cost prohibitive. Having spoken with a top pro in the UK I started soaking a microfibre in a rinseless wash solution (Feynlab Pure Rinseless) to directly remove the spent product and compound from the surface, then effortlessly wipe off with a second plush towel. The rinseless product I use is very niche in that it's crazily powerful and because it cleans whilst leaves no residue behind they market it as a panel wipe too. I've found that it enables me to remove residue safely and easily (particularly on soft paint), reduces the cost and time associated with panel wiping immediately post polishing set. I have been finishing up by panel wiping the whole car, but I do this as a comfort blanket, based on inspection under light and how the paint feels, the follow up panel wipe is completely unnecessary. I am always looking for efficiencies, if you ever get a chance to try this I'd love to get your view on the concept :)
Thanks mate, I’m really glad you enjoyed this one and I do agree that unless the owners really intend on looking after the vehicle, the high end results are short lived and certainly not always the best way to go! Yes I use a tone of Clarity- I buy the 4lt bottle and use it to refill the smaller bottles. At least here locally Clarity in bulk is the same price if not cheaper than buying 100% isopropyl and mixing it - isopropyl alcohol is really expensive and even more expensive since pandemic! I also personally like using Clarity or Eraser better. I guess the issue I have with rinseless washes is that they always leave a slickness and certain polymers behind that doesn’t feel like clean bare paint to me and I worry about bonding issues with the next protection stage especially when applying a long term coating. I guess what I’ve learnt since using coatings is that apart from using primer polishes, you really need that slightly tacky and grippy finish and feel to the paint to get the sort of strong bond with the coating that will last for years and the more I’ve been using IPA mixes to wipe before, during and after paint correction the better long term results I’ve been achieving. But I also think it’s import to go with what works best for you personally and it sounds like the rinseless is working out great for you and I’ll try to revisit it!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing I should say this is about the only time i'll use a rinseless product aside from door shuts etc! With your typical rinseless products like ONR etc I couldn't agree more about leaving polymers, gloss enhancers etc behind. Pure Rinseless is a bit of a unique one in that it's designed as a maintenance decon wash for coatings and it leaves NO residue behind. That grippy feeling you talk about is exactly the final finish so it is no surprise that Feynlab also claim at that same 250:1 dilution it works as a panel prep. Even on immediate wipe and with no resistance it seems to just chemically pre-dissolve even the most oily compound. For me it has amalgamated two of my least favourite parts of the detail (residue removal and panel wiping) and made it more cost effective and safe in the process. Worth checking out if you are looking to try something new! :)
Great video! Can you do a video using the 21mm beast on cutting and finishing with it. I bought it cause of your review on it and there is not much people who have videos on it.
Thanks mate and yes, I don’t think I’ve ever come across a BMW with soft paint (unless it was an older single stage) so it will most likely be on the harder side, but always do your testing.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing they have an black one but on the box it say for cutting pad but for wax... that mean that thing is not realy for an finish result right ? :)
hello Sandro, maybe little offtopic but, if you are about to pull your most aggresive pad (with DA), what it would be? You can name more, just looking for some most cutting pads as last resort before sanding :) (currently my most aggresive is cp mf pad) Thnak you and a have a great day !
I polished my dad's 2012 Holden Cruise that he got in 2015 and found that the front and rear bumpers were replaced at some stage as the colour was a slightly different shade of white. Also the paint was so hard especially the front bumper that cutting compound, microfibre and wool pad did barely anything, I even tried 3000 grit sanding pad on my 5 inch DA buffer and it didn't do anything really noticeable. I even tried to use the microfibre pad to put heat into it but it just destroyed the fibres on the back of the pad and it went flying off and the velcro on the buffer was rubbing the paint and that didn't even scratch it. I gave up on getting the scratches out of the front bumper after about 5 hours.
Bumpers are usually much much harder to correct because of the plastic sub-straight that makes it harder to transfer the power of the polisher to it. A lot of the time when they are repaired/repainted, body shops will leave deep 600/800grit sanding scratches in the finish which can be a nightmare to eliminate and do tend to require more aggressive sanding to remove. When you’re faced with them being that hard to correct you have to shut out the rest of the bumper and just concentrate on a small section at a time or you get no where real quick! I’ve been there many times with bumpers that are just so time consuming to correct so I feel your pain and frustration!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing most of the scratches are from washing it over the years. I did do one section on the right side of the bumper for about 2hrs, also there is some spider web cracks in the paint from light bumps, 3 on the front and 2 on the rear.
@@뿌에에에엑 Keity, I am sorry to jump in. Sandro have explained this kn some older videos. I had learn myself on these vids, so simply recommend you watch them all out from the very beginning) Cheers.
It was definitely more of a one step correction. A paint enhancement to me is taking a relatively decide finish and making it a little better and/or preparing it for a coating/protection.
I really like polishing my car. However i am aware everytime i am doing it i am removing some clear coat. I dont have those fancy depth measuring instruments. So wanted your opinion on a product that wont remove clear coat . Also a pad that is least aggressive.
Products that don’t remove clear and are pad machine applied are traditional waxes and sealants and lots of pad manufacturers will make wax application pads (Shine Mate black foam pad, Lake Country red foam pads). But also understand that environmental factors can deteriorate car paint faster than polishing with abrasives that can remove them - polishing helps main the health of your paint
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thank for your reply. Much appreciated. Love your videos. Also if it not too much trouble , is there any way if sharing some of the photos of the pain condition of my recently bought used subaru legacy which has a lot of things to fix. Wanted your suggestion how to tackle those issues
This constant highest quality of work can be summed up by a quote from a play of Publius Terentius Afer: "tacent, satis laudant" (their silence is praise enough). paint is the skin of a car. treat it wrong and it's going to get worse and worse. you only have so much microns to deal with until its gone, so choose wisely, because no matter how good you are you are removing material that cant heal itself back yet. there are brands that claim they have "self healing" paint, but technically it is only the top clear coat layer "selfhealing" minor scratches and scuffs given warm ambient temperatures (reversible coating material).
I just bought a brand new genesis gv70 which is Hyundai’s luxury brand and my paint seems very soft , just rubbing my finger on it caused a scratch , it is black so everything will be visible and I did think Asian cars have soft paint
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing I know Honda and Lexus etc use soft clear coat , I think mine is soft but I’ll have to do some more testing before I machine polish it but I’m sure it’s a soft clear coat , any tips on quick way to check ?
Man I have such respect for you. The way you approach different issues is top notch. I hope you keep doing what you do and know there are a lot of us who truly appreciate your effort into trying to educate us. Thanks Sandro.
As always, an astounding amount of wisdom and knowledge being dropped. We are quite lucky to have this channel and resource.
I said it last episode- Correcting a ‘common’ car to me is far more powerful (in the right hands) than enhancing some exotic. This episode should give any detailer or enthusiast some evidence and inspiration to take-on vehicles that people need more than want. In my experience, the owner feels like they own an exotic in the end- and every detailer deserves to feel that feeling.
Thank you Sandro for another amazing production.
My first car was an old white 82 Civic in the mid nineties and it was my sole car for almost 12yrs. Really wasn’t worth anything money wise, especially with over half a million kms on the clock. But that car was everything to me and probably the the best well kept and detailed early 80s Civic in the country. Real value is in the eye of the beholder and that car brought me so much joy!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing I’m on my 6th Civic, and 7th Honda. My first was an ‘87 hatchback, and I regret selling it. Worse than that though was my first car. I had the (now unicorn) ‘87 Nissan 200SX fastback. Not a single aftermarket product for it in the 90s, but in the rain I was drifting before it had a name.
Can you imagine what we could do to it today? It’s bananas. Still forever grateful for those memories of my youth.
I’m always mind blown by Sandros raw mastery of the trade. I keep trying to sell paint enhancements to practice and get to this guys level it’s just hard being mobile! I’m even more blown away you only had 6 hours with the car and corrected the entire thing while recording, no compromised standards...unreal. God I wish you’d open a shop in California
6hrs was just the paint correction time I had, filming and the other detailing stages where seperate so don’t give me too much credit 🙂
The quality of your video is the best. The visual beauty is very excellent. Thumbs up.
The level of professionalism and dedication you present extends beyond The Solar System.
Maybe Elon will take us there one day 🙂
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing I'm sure there must be some detailing to be done. 😂
My struggle is wanting to perfect every single car I do. Problem is I haven’t been able to tap the market (if it even exists where I am) that is willing to pay for “perfect”, aka high end work. Seeing this sort of work by you is nice.
Every detailer that really cares and takes pride in their work struggles with time vs quality of results, so you’re not alone there! If high end is what you really want to do, you have to give it time as it is a smaller market of clients that can and want to pay for that level of work, but in the mean time just keep going with whatever work comes your way and you’ll get there!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing we should not take pride is anything. We should thank God for giving us the ability to succeed at what we do, not thank ourselves.
You’re not alone! It’s about building your business right. 1)Don’t advertise to people who don’t care about their car. 2) document your work well as in take good before pictures identifying problems people have, then good after pictures showing how you’ve solved everyone’s problems conveniently & quickly, just not cheaply😉3) uncompromising results everytime
Also, you can’t do what Sandro does without a shop of your own. Even I’ve got a promaster 1500 and can’t replicate Sandros business model
If you're in New York, let me know
I’m not talking about being a narcissist and dwelling in my own glory when I take pride in my work, but I guess you can take pride too far and self indulge. I’m just referring to knowing you’ve do the best you can and in this case doing right but your customers - you can call it what you like, but it’s not about elevating myself to replace God, it’s about conduction myself and my morals as best I can. I understand where you’re coming from with pride in scripture but don’t let the loose term of the word define it as a single thing when that’s not the context here 🙂
As usual, best in the business information!
Funny, watching F1 on Monza on My tv... surfing on My phone, watching this! Thanks for posting this, Sandro! Nice work.
What a great video. Shows what can be achieved for the average enthusiast with sensible equipment. Really informative. Still a great looking finish!
One of the best tutorials on 1 step paint correction ever! TY Sandro...🙏🏻
Sandro, fantasic video yet again The POSTMAN IS BACK You have the best one step process in the business Thats because the POSTMAN always buffs ONCE I would like to thank you for this video you have confirmed what i have been trying to teach at my work I used to do all the teaching but now its left to others They teach the HOW but do it badly I teach the HOW but just as equally important is to teach the WHY If you know the WHY then you can understand what the paint is telling you so you can change your technique to suit Ater 4 years of doing it all wrong because of my lack of understanding my work now is just so much better beacuse i understand the WHY I have 2-3 hours tops to do the inside and out of the car so i just bought a new buff i use a 5inch shinematt ex620 Its a beast compared to my older 5 inch DA If you IMPROVE by 1% everyday within a year you have imprved by 365%. Dont be AFRAID of improving slowly be AFRIAD of STANDING STILL in sandro we trust
Couldn’t agree more mate! The Why is what gives a person direction so they can understand the purpose and also address issues along the way. A lot of little improvements in working efficiently certainly do add up and can make all the difference in the end! Thanks as always mate!
Thanks for the commentary throughout the video!
My pleasure mate and hope some of it was helpful!
Thanks to you and your generosity and experience I can follow step by step and now have the mild confidence to polish my car to achieve a fantastic finish. I can honestly say if not for these incredibly detailed videos I would never have attempted this on a new car as this is so far out of my comfort zone, I pretty much run your videos as I'm working so not to stuff up. Thanks again much appreciated, Brenton.
Some people are born with a Silver Spoon in their mouth,
I think you may have been born with a DA Polisher in one hand and a Rotary in the other! 😁
My absolute pleasure mate it’s really nice to hear that the videos have helped you out!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Honestly my wife's black Lexus has coming up stunning thanks to you.
Thank you for the honest, and Golden advice.
God bless you
Whoa liquid metal perfection! No one does it BETTER!!
I need to know when the working vacation to Tucson, Arizona, USA is planned so that I can get some of that amazing talent applied to my car.
Yes Sir~! i really like my rotary with Lake Country Lamb wool pads , cuts to the chase and finishes well on many different paint. i use 3D One with a few drops of 3D ACA500 if needed on deeper defects for one step, Microfiber Pad with the 15 'DA is also an option but the heat rises faster , depends on hardness of paint as usual. Love Your Work! ;-)
Thanks mate, and with a good understanding, technique and combination you can do great things with a rotary!
Just bought the same polishing machine . Hopefully my first work will be at least as close as good as yours
It’s a real beast of a work horse machine, I’m sure you’ll do great things with it!
Hey Sandro! I’m hoping you and the family are doing great! ‘The jack of all trades….the master of none’ DEBUNKED!
PART 3….Bring it on!
Thanks mate, working on part three now!
Hi There Professor !
Another Awesome Job !
For Sure Your MASTER CLASSES Help Amazingly Well Professor !
By The Way, There Are Other Professionals Like Yourself Who Share The Same Opinion About Detailing.
They Affirm That The Most Important For a Good Result, No Doubt, Is Technique Over Machines and Products.
Talking About Technique, I Have a Doubt About If We Can Apply The IPA and Remove The Compound
Immediately After Finishing Working With The Polisher,
Or if We Should Wait For the Treated Surface to Cool Down To Do So.
I Imagine That This Cooling Time Is Not Shown Because of The Editing of The Videos, I Mean, So That They Are Not Too Long.
Is That Correct Professor ?
Sorry For The Obvious Doubts, But Me, As a Real “Weekend Warrior”, Have Them, Among a Bunch of Others 😁 !
Many Thanks Professor !
Best Regards 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Ed
The best way to find the right technique is to let the results you see in front of you guide you. So if you find that you are creating a lot of heat and that the paint is sensitive to the point that an IPA wipe mars the paint, then you adjust that technique - which can be waiting for the paint to cool, finding a better cloth and using a more gentle approach. I discussed that very point on the video I did on the Pontiac Firebird. But if you’re not having an issue then you don’t need to adjust. Listening to others can sometimes certainly help, but the best thing you can do is assess and respond to your own results, and if the outcome is safe, effective and efficient it doesn’t matter what or how you do it or what others tell you is right or wrong 🙂
This is soooo good. Thanks Sandro for taking the time to make the vid and pass all this info on. Legend.
That was very helpful, Sandro. I'm a 52-year-old who has just recently begun to take better care of mine and my family's vehicles. I've discovered in the process that I really love detailing. But I've never had the nerve yet to try using a DA polisher to do paint correction/enhancement. Someday I will, and I really appreciate the knowledge and experience you shared here. I do have a couple of newbie questions, if you don't mind.
1. How do you determine what you will and won't tape off when you polish?
2. Do you also polish the windows?
Thanks again, Sandro!
Awesome to hear mate and I’m sure you’ll do great at polishing as well!
If the trims can’t/shouldn’t be polished such as matte/satin/textured finishes then I’ll mask them, but many gloss finished trims can and should be polished. It also depends on the level of correction I’m pursuing and how aggressive I’ll need to be. So for lighter and quicker jobs I mask less as there’s less risk and time, but for bigger jobs when I’m additionally using heavier cut, I’ll mask more to mitigate that risk and pursue higher levels of correction.
Given the time I’ll also polish glass to deep clean it and certainly if I’m applying a glass coating over it to ensure the best bond.
Damn I’ve been waiting for this 🔥
Hope you enjoy it!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing always sir.👌🏻 Keep inspiring us 🔥
Nice job! I’m looking forward to trying the new RUPES DA Microfiber pads!
Thanks and me too, as well as the new 3” polisher
Awesome video mate! I know how long time it goes into doing them and that is on top of the actual work :D
What is essential and what you touched upon on the video is setting your own/customers/friends ... expectations.
I have learned that being a father of two, having a job, having a house to look after etc the 95%+ plus jobs are not possible not even on my own beloved cars. There isn't simply not enough time or space for me to reach what I would like to have. I have learnt and still learning on how to use one polish and one type of pad and get to an end-result which would be more than enough for most people. But on the other hand car folks/detailers/hobbyists are not like other people :D. On our own cars I am trying to mitigate the work in the garage by only closing doors by pushing on the handles, not closing the decklid on top of the decklid etc... I remind the family on a daily basis haha
I have now tried the same combo for some time and I think I am ready to change out the polish to test something else out and see if that works better for my use. One has to also remember some of this stuff can get quite expensive if one opts to have multiple of everything and that is just for the chems/polish/compounds etc disregarding the actual machines and toys. Specially if one only does as a hobby and it does not generated any income.
I am repeating the obvious here but well well also I do appreciate you putting out the videos as it is hard work just doing that part
I think the older I get the more I realise that time (or lack of it) is the most valuable commodity we have to offer and many of us struggle with knowing how to best spend and manage it! So there can be a real beauty and benefit in simplifying things - whether it be detailing or really any other tasks we pursue and complete! Thanks mate and I hope you enjoy this series!
Listening to this while doing a paint correction on an F150 with holograms, doesn’t get much better 😁😁
🙂
Sandro if you ever want a protégée I’d gladly move from Sydney to Melbourne!
Hey Sandro, another awesome video, I've actually just been trying out classic polish at work, and found it to work really well with the rupes yellow wool pad on mazda paint. It finishes awesome and has plenty of cut to get the job done when working with brand new cars.
Great to hear mate, and I agree that it’s actually a really nice versatile polish!
Sandro, it seems I have started look for some imperfections in your vids and you know what? - nothing was found))) Just joking, another great lesson (actually several of them in one video), great tips and tricks and amazing result. This explains how the son loves his mother! Can I use an opportunity and ask you an advice? My rims were coated by CarPro Cquarts DeLuxe a year ago and of course I see decreased functionality of DeLuxe especially on winter rims where TarX used every wash (approx weekly). And I see some light scrathes inside after washing with woolies. I am thinking to use CarPro Essence + as it wil fill scratches and will make hydrofobic effect by its own. And I hope it will survive 6 winter months of use. Not an issue to repeat the procedure after every season (or before) as I am switching from summer to winter myself and always detail rims before store them for the next season in garage. Thanks for letting me know if this idea is very stupid or not very stupid))) Cheers from Sweden.
Thank you mate, and yes I think using Essence Plus to clean and fill some defects can be a great way to get another season out of the rims with some good protection. I would say that after polishing with Essence Plus try to add a good sealant on top a few hours later as that should help seal the finish for longer.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thank you "Uncle" Sandro)
Hi Sandro - I've seen tens, probably hundreds of your videos this is without doubt one of my favourites. It's nice to see both an acceptance of and tips for one-step work. I enjoy chasing a 90-95% plus level on my own cars, and some high-end work but on 80% of the rest I don't have the time, budget or even motivation, knowing the owners do not care for their cars as I do.. it's just wasted time, money and clearcoat in these cases! Because of these factors most work I do involves a single cut and finish stage and your channel has been key to providing the theory and practical tips to really push the boundaries of what is possible within restrictions I have, normally a day's worth of polishing time, sometimes even working outdoors. This video as always is greatly appreciated.
I have always meant to ask, do you go through a lot of NV Clarity or do you just use the bottle for a homemade IPA mix? As good as Eraser, Prep and Clarity are, I use so much of them that they had become cost prohibitive.
Having spoken with a top pro in the UK I started soaking a microfibre in a rinseless wash solution (Feynlab Pure Rinseless) to directly remove the spent product and compound from the surface, then effortlessly wipe off with a second plush towel. The rinseless product I use is very niche in that it's crazily powerful and because it cleans whilst leaves no residue behind they market it as a panel wipe too. I've found that it enables me to remove residue safely and easily (particularly on soft paint), reduces the cost and time associated with panel wiping immediately post polishing set. I have been finishing up by panel wiping the whole car, but I do this as a comfort blanket, based on inspection under light and how the paint feels, the follow up panel wipe is completely unnecessary. I am always looking for efficiencies, if you ever get a chance to try this I'd love to get your view on the concept :)
Thanks mate, I’m really glad you enjoyed this one and I do agree that unless the owners really intend on looking after the vehicle, the high end results are short lived and certainly not always the best way to go!
Yes I use a tone of Clarity- I buy the 4lt bottle and use it to refill the smaller bottles. At least here locally Clarity in bulk is the same price if not cheaper than buying 100% isopropyl and mixing it - isopropyl alcohol is really expensive and even more expensive since pandemic! I also personally like using Clarity or Eraser better.
I guess the issue I have with rinseless washes is that they always leave a slickness and certain polymers behind that doesn’t feel like clean bare paint to me and I worry about bonding issues with the next protection stage especially when applying a long term coating. I guess what I’ve learnt since using coatings is that apart from using primer polishes, you really need that slightly tacky and grippy finish and feel to the paint to get the sort of strong bond with the coating that will last for years and the more I’ve been using IPA mixes to wipe before, during and after paint correction the better long term results I’ve been achieving. But I also think it’s import to go with what works best for you personally and it sounds like the rinseless is working out great for you and I’ll try to revisit it!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing I should say this is about the only time i'll use a rinseless product aside from door shuts etc! With your typical rinseless products like ONR etc I couldn't agree more about leaving polymers, gloss enhancers etc behind. Pure Rinseless is a bit of a unique one in that it's designed as a maintenance decon wash for coatings and it leaves NO residue behind. That grippy feeling you talk about is exactly the final finish so it is no surprise that Feynlab also claim at that same 250:1 dilution it works as a panel prep. Even on immediate wipe and with no resistance it seems to just chemically pre-dissolve even the most oily compound. For me it has amalgamated two of my least favourite parts of the detail (residue removal and panel wiping) and made it more cost effective and safe in the process. Worth checking out if you are looking to try something new! :)
Great Job !
Great video! Can you do a video using the 21mm beast on cutting and finishing with it. I bought it cause of your review on it and there is not much people who have videos on it.
Thanks mate, and I’m sure I’ll have some videos on the 21mm coming up down the track.
Can show and teach us how to polishing a whole car with a rotary?thanks
as always very intructive ! thank you :) if i am not wrong bmw (like an e63/e64 of 2009) is hard paint ?
Thanks mate and yes, I don’t think I’ve ever come across a BMW with soft paint (unless it was an older single stage) so it will most likely be on the harder side, but always do your testing.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thank you :) do you tried the meguars pads ? :c
Yes, Meguiar’s makes some great pads - but they are really expensive here locally
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing they have an black one but on the box it say for cutting pad but for wax... that mean that thing is not realy for an finish result right ? :)
There’s no real standard when it comes to pad colours - different brands use different colours - but usually the black pads are finishing/waxing pads.
white lights around the room what kind of light do you use, how many watts? you are my idol
They are Hella Nova 50w lights
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thank you very much teacher
hello Sandro, maybe little offtopic but, if you are about to pull your most aggresive pad (with DA), what it would be? You can name more, just looking for some most cutting pads as last resort before sanding :) (currently my most aggresive is cp mf pad) Thnak you and a have a great day !
Maybe this video will help, but for me the Lake County SDO LL wool pad is the most aggressive pad I’ve used
ua-cam.com/video/D4MbOfxAs1U/v-deo.html
I polished my dad's 2012 Holden Cruise that he got in 2015 and found that the front and rear bumpers were replaced at some stage as the colour was a slightly different shade of white. Also the paint was so hard especially the front bumper that cutting compound, microfibre and wool pad did barely anything, I even tried 3000 grit sanding pad on my 5 inch DA buffer and it didn't do anything really noticeable.
I even tried to use the microfibre pad to put heat into it but it just destroyed the fibres on the back of the pad and it went flying off and the velcro on the buffer was rubbing the paint and that didn't even scratch it. I gave up on getting the scratches out of the front bumper after about 5 hours.
Bumpers are usually much much harder to correct because of the plastic sub-straight that makes it harder to transfer the power of the polisher to it. A lot of the time when they are repaired/repainted, body shops will leave deep 600/800grit sanding scratches in the finish which can be a nightmare to eliminate and do tend to require more aggressive sanding to remove. When you’re faced with them being that hard to correct you have to shut out the rest of the bumper and just concentrate on a small section at a time or you get no where real quick! I’ve been there many times with bumpers that are just so time consuming to correct so I feel your pain and frustration!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing most of the scratches are from washing it over the years. I did do one section on the right side of the bumper for about 2hrs, also there is some spider web cracks in the paint from light bumps, 3 on the front and 2 on the rear.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing the whole front bumper is covered with tiny craters from stone chips, spends most of its time on the highway.
Hello! I have a question. Why do you leave it a little open when polishing the bonnet?
To avoid hitting the front fenders and grill area edges with my pads and it also stops the need to masks those opposing panels and trims.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thank you so much for your advice every time.
@@뿌에에에엑 Keity, I am sorry to jump in. Sandro have explained this kn some older videos. I had learn myself on these vids, so simply recommend you watch them all out from the very beginning) Cheers.
@@sergeyrudnitskiy7579 OK i’ll check previous videos. Thanks
Great work, Sandro!
Do you think Scholl S20 Black or any other good quality one step polish would work just as well?
It could certainly work as well, it may require a different pad as it’s a little more aggressive but it’s a fairly versatile compound.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing ok, that's great. Would you suggest a medium foam pad?
As a general single stage process that’s probably a good choice
Hi Sandro great work as always, would you consider this to be a one step correction or just a paint enhancement?
It was definitely more of a one step correction. A paint enhancement to me is taking a relatively decide finish and making it a little better and/or preparing it for a coating/protection.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Okay awesome, cheers man
I really like polishing my car. However i am aware everytime i am doing it i am removing some clear coat. I dont have those fancy depth measuring instruments. So wanted your opinion on a product that wont remove clear coat . Also a pad that is least aggressive.
Products that don’t remove clear and are pad machine applied are traditional waxes and sealants and lots of pad manufacturers will make wax application pads (Shine Mate black foam pad, Lake Country red foam pads). But also understand that environmental factors can deteriorate car paint faster than polishing with abrasives that can remove them - polishing helps main the health of your paint
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thank for your reply. Much appreciated. Love your videos.
Also if it not too much trouble , is there any way if sharing some of the photos of the pain condition of my recently bought used subaru legacy which has a lot of things to fix. Wanted your suggestion how to tackle those issues
You can send some photos through on Instagram- the link is in the description box of this channel
This constant highest quality of work can be summed up by a quote from a play of Publius Terentius Afer: "tacent, satis laudant" (their silence is praise enough).
paint is the skin of a car. treat it wrong and it's going to get worse and worse. you only have so much microns to deal with until its gone, so choose wisely, because no matter how good you are you are removing material that cant heal itself back yet. there are brands that claim they have "self healing" paint, but technically it is only the top clear coat layer "selfhealing" minor scratches and scuffs given warm ambient temperatures (reversible coating material).
Are the lake country regular ccs pads as good as the hdo ones for the shinemate ex620? Or which one's do you prefer thanks
The regular CCS pads are made for rotaries so they won’t hold as up well on a large throw DA like the 620 - HDOs will be better on that machine.
@CarCraftAutoDetailing but you can use them right I ordered them they were 4 for like 34 bucks including tax
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing and have you tried the reflection artist pads from buff and shine on that polisher
Yes you can still use them , but no I haven’t tried those B&S pads
@CarCraftAutoDetailing so do the regular hdo pads work better than the hdo ccs pads?
I just bought a brand new genesis gv70 which is Hyundai’s luxury brand and my paint seems very soft , just rubbing my finger on it caused a scratch , it is black so everything will be visible and I did think Asian cars have soft paint
Japanese cars traditionally use softer clear coats, other Asian car brands in general can very quite a lot.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing I know Honda and Lexus etc use soft clear coat , I think mine is soft but I’ll have to do some more testing before I machine polish it but I’m sure it’s a soft clear coat , any tips on quick way to check ?
This video should help:
ua-cam.com/video/m6tbu3GrTWI/v-deo.html
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thanks I’ll take a look now thanks
hi mister sandro
i did share and like looking forward to part 3 save money on mi creditcard
2nd
🥈
3rd
🥉