It failed in the first place because these sorry ass manufacturers don't seal the cut edges of the opening before they seal the window in. Hey here is a raw opening, let's slap a window in it! Smdh
It is really personal preference. Many times the wood is not rotted, is has just delaminated and can be re-bonded together. This takes a day or two. Many people prefer to do this rather than take a week or more to completely reconstruct the wall. But there are situations were a complete rebuild is the only answer.
Severe water damage, which includes mold, rot, and disintegration is different than straightforward delamination. Our products and process are for delamination where the wood fibers and underlying surfaces are dry and generally sound, with the exception of the bonded layers separating. When the damage is severe, we always recommend rebuilding or replacing the wall. Sorry, we do not have complete rebuild videos because that is not our specialty.
We normally cut out the bad area plus a little extra. Then remove the filon from the wood very carefully. Then I normally replace all of the rotten wood. To do this I use stabond E183 to glue it back to the styrofoam. This won't melt the styrofoam. Afterwards I Then work on cleaning up the filon siding with a sander. Afterwards I spray stabond T440C on the wood making sure to only get it on the wood and then spray the filon siding to be adhered to the wood. I Then get someone to help me put it up on the sidewall. Afterwards I roll it out with a Laminate roller really well. For the cut lines I use a grinder to open them up and then use dnyaglass to fill them back. After all of this I tape off the The the area and color match the gelcoat and spray the area and sand then polish it up.
@@javiergallegos9289 I naturally can’t see your damage. But I have gone in and replaced a lot of wood in camper’s. Normally I just start taking pictures and then taking the affected areas apart. Then accessing the damaged area I decide what to do next. But you must know what’s the amount of damage first. This way you can decide on where to go with it. I do enjoy working on them with my friends. We’ve knocked out some bad damage in the past. But you’ve got to open up the wounds to see how bad it is.
I have a major wall issue on a 2004 palomino thoroughbred 21ft. If I post a video of all o got going on do you think you could check it out for me and give me a pointer or two? Or tell me if I should just junk it
Jason, I can't say what to do with your rig, however you are not alone. Our products can be good on small areas. If a big area is the problem, or the plywood is falling out, then a rebuild might be the way to go.
@@composetproductsl.l.c.dela2844 thanks for responding. Nad yes it's major. It's almost all the way around the bottom. The wood is rotted. Most of the wall feels solid but you can tell it's not by looking at the bulge all the way around the bottom outside. The front right side is the worse. I'm assuming it wouldn't be safe at all to pull it anywhere huh?
Did you put the black or white coiled strip on that was shown or just the black caulk? Also wouldn’t those two small black shim squares that you put in create a gap across the rest of the bottom of the window?
We used just the black Sikaflex 221 sealant. No putty or butyl tape as used. The shims centered the window in the opening. If we set the window onto the sill without shims, there would have been a large gap at the top. Many leaks around windows are a result of the window not being centered, or the window rough opening too large, which are "factory" problems.
Carole V The shims remain, car windscreens (windshields to you guys) are assembled in the same way. The shims hold the glass or frame in place during the sealing and setting process.
Just one major problem. You didn't get the rotted, wet wood out of the wall. You obviously have a leak that needs addressed. It will reoccur, and you risk mold poisoning.
The wood is not always rotted. In many cases the glue holding the plywood together dissolves and can be re-bonded.. If the leak persists and the delamination and leak path is not repaired then you will get rot and mold.
How dry do the walls have to be? My fiberglass skin has come to a hanging stance. I noticed it when I opened the slide out. I know it is still leaking and I will find the leak but I need to know that I do not have to pull the skin off to use your product. Thanks.
Dry is important. In many cases a repair can be made without removing or taking apart the walls. Results vary depending on the amount of damage and your expectations of what a successful repair is. Contact us through www.delamrepair.com and send a few pictures.
@@psedwick Replace or rebuild the entire wall if the wood is rotten, moldy, disintegrating, or falling out. If the plies in the plywood layers are present but separating, and the wood in not rotten, moldy or disintegrating, then it may be possible to re-bond the plies in the plywood if they are sound and dry.
I just bought a camper, I will never ever buy a camper that has this kind of walls..(plywood foam comosite) the glue behind it is a headache to get off.. the wood at the bottom just crumbles, I have spent 8 days trying to get the rest of the wall down just to get a fresh start! The glue does not come off! Here you are, just adding more glue smh!
Thanks for the comment and I feel your pain. Unfortunately, what you are experiencing is typical in the used RV arena. Replacing the wall will be challenging due to nature of a composite structure.
I saw in the video that you measured the bubble to determine how much resin you needed to mix. How do you determine the volume of resin based on the measurements? Thanks.
There is a "guest" checkout that should bypass the Paypal account set up. However, If you have an existing Paypal account they push you access your account.
Do you not have to remove any of that black styrofoam insulation? I have a similar project going on and the wall looks rough. I was going to use a multi tool to cut into it from the inside a bit then try my best to scrape off all the gross styrofoam then patch in and glue new pieces of foam and luan. Is this reasonable?
Why is it black in the window sill then? Expect for the spot where it looks like some was broken away the surface of the rest of the styrofoam in your video looks black? And oh yeah mine is mold city. Total gut job.
@@ajax9948 This particular RV was manufactured with a soft black seal of some sort inside the window rough opening. In the video you can see the black seal has been removed and white styro underneath.
I have a 94 Gulfstream Conquest class C with delamination, but the delaminated areas are 'hard' with no give. Any idea what causes it to be so resistant to pushing in and is it repairable?
Some coaches were built with a thick (3/16" +/-) fiberglass siding that does not flex like the much thinner Filon type siding. Also, the composite wall (fiberglass/plywood/foam/panel) might not be delaminated. There could be a framing issue.
That is a very good product. I personally prefer Sikaflex sealants as they offer a wider variety for different types of applications, and are as good as the 3M.
Love your calm voice.. thank you for informative video..
It failed in the first place because these sorry ass manufacturers don't seal the cut edges of the opening before they seal the window in. Hey here is a raw opening, let's slap a window in it! Smdh
Your assessment of the RV manufacturing process seems spot on...
Why do you fill it instead of cutting out that section of the wall and replacing?
It is really personal preference. Many times the wood is not rotted, is has just delaminated and can be re-bonded together. This takes a day or two. Many people prefer to do this rather than take a week or more to completely reconstruct the wall. But there are situations were a complete rebuild is the only answer.
Sounds great
What about the wet rotted wood in the inside walls? Any videos on how to replace that as well?
Severe water damage, which includes mold, rot, and disintegration is different than straightforward delamination. Our products and process are for delamination where the wood fibers and underlying surfaces are dry and generally sound, with the exception of the bonded layers separating. When the damage is severe, we always recommend rebuilding or replacing the wall. Sorry, we do not have complete rebuild videos because that is not our specialty.
We normally cut out the bad area plus a little extra. Then remove the filon from the wood very carefully. Then I normally replace all of the rotten wood. To do this I use stabond E183 to glue it back to the styrofoam. This won't melt the styrofoam. Afterwards I Then work on cleaning up the filon siding with a sander. Afterwards I spray stabond T440C on the wood making sure to only get it on the wood and then spray the filon siding to be adhered to the wood. I Then get someone to help me put it up on the sidewall. Afterwards I roll it out with a Laminate roller really well. For the cut lines I use a grinder to open them up and then use dnyaglass to fill them back. After all of this I tape off the The the area and color match the gelcoat and spray the area and sand then polish it up.
@@shannonmcafee4169
Got an email or number for questions?
@@shannonmcafee4169Do you have any UA-cam videos I can watch?
@@javiergallegos9289 I naturally can’t see your damage. But I have gone in and replaced a lot of wood in camper’s. Normally I just start taking pictures and then taking the affected areas apart. Then accessing the damaged area I decide what to do next. But you must know what’s the amount of damage first. This way you can decide on where to go with it. I do enjoy working on them with my friends. We’ve knocked out some bad damage in the past. But you’ve got to open up the wounds to see how bad it is.
What a well presented process. Thank you so much for sharing.
Ive used insulating foam with 10 times more success than epoxy
Did you do it the same way they did just with foam?
I have a major wall issue on a 2004 palomino thoroughbred 21ft. If I post a video of all o got going on do you think you could check it out for me and give me a pointer or two? Or tell me if I should just junk it
Jason, I can't say what to do with your rig, however you are not alone. Our products can be good on small areas. If a big area is the problem, or the plywood is falling out, then a rebuild might be the way to go.
@@composetproductsl.l.c.dela2844 thanks for responding. Nad yes it's major. It's almost all the way around the bottom. The wood is rotted. Most of the wall feels solid but you can tell it's not by looking at the bulge all the way around the bottom outside. The front right side is the worse. I'm assuming it wouldn't be safe at all to pull it anywhere huh?
@@mustangmadd3172 I'd recommend having a local shop look at it. I
really nice video. thanks for the information!
Buy a unit that has a backing other than Luan (azdel?) and this problem will be minimized?🤔
That is a good solution. Though I have heard of a few instances where the fiberglass-to-Azdel bond was questionable.
Did you put the black or white coiled strip on that was shown or just the black caulk? Also wouldn’t those two small black shim squares that you put in create a gap across the rest of the bottom of the window?
We used just the black Sikaflex 221 sealant. No putty or butyl tape as used. The shims centered the window in the opening. If we set the window onto the sill without shims, there would have been a large gap at the top. Many leaks around windows are a result of the window not being centered, or the window rough opening too large, which are "factory" problems.
Carole V
The shims remain, car windscreens (windshields to you guys) are assembled in the same way. The shims hold the glass or frame in place during the sealing and setting process.
Aww man. Not looking forward to this project at all 😕. Great video. Thanks
Thanks. Don't hesitate to contact us at www.delamrepair.com, or FAQ's at www.delamrepair.com/rvwalldelaminationrepairquestions.html
Just one major problem. You didn't get the rotted, wet wood out of the wall. You obviously have a leak that needs addressed. It will reoccur, and you risk mold poisoning.
The wood is not always rotted. In many cases the glue holding the plywood together dissolves and can be re-bonded.. If the leak persists and the delamination and leak path is not repaired then you will get rot and mold.
You are correct this is a half fast job in my opinion. If you're going to do this you might as well just build a cover over it
How dry do the walls have to be? My fiberglass skin has come to a hanging stance. I noticed it when I opened the slide out. I know it is still leaking and I will find the leak but I need to know that I do not have to pull the skin off to use your product. Thanks.
Dry is important. In many cases a repair can be made without removing or taking apart the walls. Results vary depending on the amount of damage and your expectations of what a successful repair is. Contact us through www.delamrepair.com and send a few pictures.
Composet Products L.L.C. delamrepair.com will do as soon as I get home. I’m working in Iowa and fly home on the 19th. Again thanks.
@@composetproductsl.l.c.dela2844 What if the wall is rotten? In the loft I have a rotten bottom of the wall under the window.
@@psedwick Replace or rebuild the entire wall if the wood is rotten, moldy, disintegrating, or falling out. If the plies in the plywood layers are present but separating, and the wood in not rotten, moldy or disintegrating, then it may be possible to re-bond the plies in the plywood if they are sound and dry.
Man you should see how big the cutout is on my window.Huge I tell yah !
Ty need this for interior under passenger wall in our 33ft Damon Daybreak...
I just bought a camper, I will never ever buy a camper that has this kind of walls..(plywood foam comosite) the glue behind it is a headache to get off.. the wood at the bottom just crumbles, I have spent 8 days trying to get the rest of the wall down just to get a fresh start! The glue does not come off! Here you are, just adding more glue smh!
Thanks for the comment and I feel your pain. Unfortunately, what you are experiencing is typical in the used RV arena. Replacing the wall will be challenging due to nature of a composite structure.
I saw in the video that you measured the bubble to determine how much resin you needed to mix. How do you determine the volume of resin based on the measurements? Thanks.
100cc per 1 square foot of single layer delam is the general Rule of Thumb.
When I try to add something to my cart I am sent to a website that wants me to download “the new PayPal”.
There is a "guest" checkout that should bypass the Paypal account set up. However, If you have an existing Paypal account they push you access your account.
Just keep it under a tarp
Do you not have to remove any of that black styrofoam insulation? I have a similar project going on and the wall looks rough. I was going to use a multi tool to cut into it from the inside a bit then try my best to scrape off all the gross styrofoam then patch in and glue new pieces of foam and luan. Is this reasonable?
We have never seen black Styrofoam. Mold can turn material black so please be careful and check to make sure it is not mold.
Why is it black in the window sill then? Expect for the spot where it looks like some was broken away the surface of the rest of the styrofoam in your video looks black? And oh yeah mine is mold city. Total gut job.
@@ajax9948 This particular RV was manufactured with a soft black seal of some sort inside the window rough opening. In the video you can see the black seal has been removed and white styro underneath.
Ohh okay I gotcha thank you!
I have a 94 Gulfstream Conquest class C with delamination, but the delaminated areas are 'hard' with no give. Any idea what causes it to be so resistant to pushing in and is it repairable?
Some coaches were built with a thick (3/16" +/-) fiberglass siding that does not flex like the much thinner Filon type siding. Also, the composite wall (fiberglass/plywood/foam/panel) might not be delaminated. There could be a framing issue.
Great video though.
I always use 3M 5200 sealant, it’s the best
That is a very good product. I personally prefer Sikaflex sealants as they offer a wider variety for different types of applications, and are as good as the 3M.
I, I, I... lol. That tapping in the intro is hilarious.
That tapping takes a lot of skill...
That's how delamination is found on composite fills including aircraft honeycomb structures !
What if is a wooden frame