Brian, you're a great teacher. You cover the fine points without getting repetitive and boring! Thanks for your willingness to share your experiences. Great job. bg
Great walkthrough of the repair. Nice job! Tip 11: Turn off all propane flames. Tip 12: If needed, wrap tape around the wand to mark a certain place, so you know when you've reached a particular depth.
Wow, Brian... that was a serious undertaking! Very impressive. We're definitely grateful that this is one problem we don't seem to be having, but if we should, you've made an eye-opening piece about how to address it.
This is serious DIY stuff. It is good to know since delamination is too costly to have a dealer repair and without taking action...your entire rig can disintegrate over time. Thankd for showing us how you acomplished this.
You're welcome! I'm pretty happy with the result. In some ways, it's stronger than before. Plus I was able to seal up the trim and other pieces even better than before.
Wow, looks great. I did something similar a few years ago on a Minnie Winnie on the dinette area. The fiberglass had delaminated from the foam sheets. It was water damage so I already had the inside wood paneling removed. This is gonna sound crazy but I actually used expanding foam. That stuff is soooo sticky! Just dont use too much! I was able to get it shot into most areas then clamped it up on the outside kinda like you did. It actually worked great and is still holding a few years later. I'm not suggesting anyone do this but it did work great for my specific application. It finds its way into the little areas you cant reach, but if you use too much you could do more harm than good.
@@RVwithTito I was very careful not to use too much, I've seen that stuff blow out door panels when people tried to use it as sound deadening on cars. With the corrugated fiberglass on the outside it had places to escape. It actually turned out better than I predicted. I would do it again, if you've ever had that stuff on your hands, it sticks really really well lol.
Tito... you are one serious DIY'er! When I saw the title to this I almost skipped it knowing that it was above my DIY tolerance level, but after watching I could actually see myself doing this if needed. - Thanks for the great video!
Yeah. It's a lot of work but worth it. Even starting with a small spot will let you know whether it's something you want or can do. I will tell you though. I'm pretty confident now that I could fix any delamination or structural issue on my RV.
Yeah man! Your DIY instincts and overall skill-set are impressive. If I may ask, what is/was your career? You're quite multi-talented. - Thanks again for another great video!
Thanks. I was a software engineer and before that an electronics tech in the Navy. I'm mostly just curious and like to figure things out. Most of the DIY I picked up just working on my own house for the last 25 years.
I have never had delam, Tito. Now have an airstream and won't face that, but will have other challenges, I am sure. But, as usual, you did an excellent job and where many may think it can't be done, you proved it could.
DUDE! I have watched dozens of video's on YT as I am about to tackle some delam on my 2018 Keystone Montana. I have to say, this was by far the most impressive, detail oriented and informed video I've come across. Very well done, sir.
It working!! I was also told that delamination was the end of the world and way too expensive to have professionally done. I wish I could add a pick of my set up! I’m doing a foot in the morning then a foot in the evening with the fast hardening and it’s working beautifully. Then I’m going to tape the edges with roofers flashing tape then replace trim!
Wow...awesome diy to repair on this level of expertise! It wouldn't surprise me if you get some feedback from those in the rv body repair industry. Very impressive!
Thanks Tito used your method to fix mine. Worked great. Water drain hose on the back side of my refrigerator oxidized and broke, water soked into the exterior freg compartment causing delamination. Make sure to check that drip hose on your freg.
I just ordered one of your kits through Amazon. I am about to get started on basically the same delamination job as you. Thanks for the great informative video. I really enjoy your content. Keep the great vids coming :)
Great information and timing. I started my delam repair yesterday on a hybrid bunk end. Different process, as I have removed the entire panel. I'm hoping for similar results. I am making a video, but my editing isn't as techy as yours. I will post in a day or so. Thanks for sharing your skills and the links to supplies.
Tito thanks for this video...we bought a used truck camper this year that we love but the outside is delaminating just like you showed and I was wondering how we could repair it without spending a fortune. This is definitely something we could figure out with your info and I thank you for that.
Thanks for posting this series! I may have a chance to pick up a slide in truck camper and by the photos, I may have to do some of this or replace a few pieces so this will be very helpful. Steve
Thank you so much for the videos on delamination. I am thinking of getting a used motorhome but there is delamination so researching if it possible to fix. Expat living in England 👍
Hey your video is the best I've seen so far. Question, why don't I see people using "Git Rot" for this? It comes from the marine world and is designed exactly for this purpose. I believe it would penetrate better and result in a stronger more solid repair. I used it on the cabin of an old boat I had with a thin layer of fiberglass over plywood. The big downside is that it is very pricey.
Pretty big project but well done. Number 10 is probably the most important tip. When working under time restraints you want to know exactly how to move forward. Awesome job that certainly deserves a pat on the back.
Great job. You give confidence that this can actually be fixed by a DIYer. Did you have any swelling of the underlayment? Mine (2006 Jayco) seems to be swelling as if affected by water from the bottom of the rv wall. Thanks and keep up the great work!
I just completed re-laminating one side/corner of my 5th wheel today. I used this guide and others and put my own twist on it. We'll see how it turns out. Epoxy is messy. The West system with the pumps is great! Makes it easy to mix.
@@dominofive5075 It worked great! Everywhere that I was able to reach penetration and not have the epoxy leak into the wall is still very solidly attached.
There's a rubber piece down the middle. Pry it off and you'll see screws underneath. Remove the screws and pry off the trim and Butyl tape. Hope that helps.
Very expensive repair if done by a shop. My previous 5th wheel delaminated before I had known what delamination was. Took it to a shop and 6500 dollars later it was fixed. Fast forward to my most recent toyhauler it had happened again. I did it myself and 500 dollars later it was fixed. I learned my DYI lesson but am still learning what should be rule #11.... caulk the seems on your rig religiously and I may never have to fix anything like that again. Thanks for the video you are awesome.
Save yourself a wee bit of time and get some "epoxy mixing nozzles" and application gun. But you repair looks great and you took the time to do it right.
Thank you so much, so many videos are just the best thing is to prevent it, now where that is common sense, there is hardly any who tell how to do it. I bought a used RV that they hid a lot of issues, and I was a newbie to RV's. Luckily we were able to fix any leaks and repairs, there is a bit of deamination that occurred. Thank you so very much.
Sold my laminated siding camper before that happened. Bought an aluminum sided one with good paint over it. Doubt I'll have a laminated sided camper again.
Nice work and great presentation. I'm experiencing this issue with my fifth wheel and had similar plans to try a restoration. I am curious about how you addressed any dry rot in the areas affected? Thanks for all the helpful tips I've pulled off your channel.
All I did was pump alot of epoxy into the affected areas and layers hoping it would penetrate the material as much as possible. That's about all I could do.
Holy cow. That was a project. And you pulled that off. Can’t imagine how much a dealer would have charged. Guess they would have pulled the whole panel off and redone. You saved yourself BIG time cash. Looks great. Great job. Thanks for sharing.
You're right. Most dealers or shops will remove and replace the enter wall or section of the wall so that they can warranty the work. Of course, this will probably cost thousands. The approach I took has no guarantees. It's up to you to do a thourough evaluation of the problem and do your best repair. If done well, it can have acceptable results for just a couple hundred bucks in materials. I still have more resin, syringes and tubing so I can certainly fix other things if they come up. Fingers crossed - hope they don't.
Awesome video and process demo!! Do you know why it delaminated in the first place? Seems like you might have to revisit this whole undertaking if there is a slow leak somewhere or some other underlying cause.
Thanks. The delamination was a result of worn seals in the corner molding. The rain gutter also dumps water right in that area. I removed the corner piece and reasealed it when I put it back.
Did you make a conscious effort to glue between all the separated laminations? Just wondering if say there were 5 plys separated and glue only got between 2 of them, what would hold the others?
Yes where necessary and possible to gain access. It only applied to a couple of areas though. Delam was mostly in the outer layer. Some areas I simply pumped a bunch of resin in there hoping it would soak through as much as possible.
Thanks for your great video Tito. Your way of explaining keeps the viewer interested all the way through. Any suggestions from you or someone you know on how to repair the bottom skirting of an RV where water ingress has basically rotten the plywood that is sandwiched between the outer and the inner layer? This part of the wall is below the living space of the RV. It basically is for aesthetic and to keep mud and rocks from flying out. Thanks.
I am pretty handy - but not in a million years! I would never have the courage to bite off such a project. I did however enjoy your sharing this experience - thank you.
Hi. New here and new at my 2004: Zeppelin rehab... My question is about resealing the edge after I fix the delam. The moisture is getting in from the trim edge. I have butyl tape. The trim is in tact... Is there a video someone can point me to that will show me how to put things back together waterproof? I have 2 days before the rain comes back ❤
Here's what I'd do (1) Clean the surface area and inside of the trim really well and make sure it's dry (2) Place the Butyl tape inside the trim piece where it makes contact with the side panels - make sure they're are no gaps in the Butyl (3) Position the trim on the seam (4) screw through the Butyl tape to secure the trim - consider getting new screws if they're rusted (5) trim any excess Butyl that oozes out (6) Optional: Add a small bead of silicon sealant over the edges especially in the problem areas like near the top. Hope this helps. Good luck!
Great video! I wish you had shown more of the rigging. What did you attach the straps to on the other side? Where did you put clamps where there were no openings? Did you squirt the resin between several plywood layers like an onion? I know you mentioned to look for that but was the damage separating the layers?
I ran the straps down to the other side and back under to the frame of the chassis. I suggest pitting a towel or something under the strap on the corners to protect the paint job. I started by wrapping the straps aroind the ladder but it put too much strain on it and i had to do some repair on the ladder mount. I wish I had a tree or anything else nearby but I didnt.
About 50 total man hours of my labor over 7 days. $200 - $250 in additional parts (mostly the stuff in the parts list plus some 2x4s and a couple extra clamps). I had the rest of the tools and scrap wood already. Day 1 was spent prepping, removing stuff, trying out some clamping. Then 5 partial days of glueing and clamping. Then one final day putting everything back together and resealing.
Maaaan very helpful and very well explained especially with your 10 tips that's usually something everybody has to go through themselves to understand just to find that they do not have the patience to finish
This may be the route I go on my rig. It's been about 3 years since you've done this work. Do you feel it has held up well considering the amount of effort you put into it? Well done, by the way!
Yes. The areas I've treated have held up. Some small spots I didn't treat may need to be addressed. Overall, I'm still pleased. It aint perfect if you look closely.
Honest question here. Would it have been easier to learn how to re laminate the existing laminate all together? I watch some videos at seems like it would have been easier
Hey thanks for the great videos man. Quick question. I was wondering if you think it’s possible to inject epoxy through the fiberglass (into the center of the bubbles) and use body filler to patch the holes, especially in the areas you couldn’t get to? Note: I will be painting my entire rv anyway. If successful I think it would save time instead of having to remove everything?
Good video Brian, One thing you did not comment on is how and where the delamination started in the first place. Was it a roof leak, seam, clearance lights, vents?
It was along the corner seam that I removed. Just so happens that was where the rain gutter dumped all the run off. Made some mods so now it's much better and sealed up much more now
Great video, I have this problem on the front cap of my Keystone Sprinter, I use a E350, 7.3 diesel box truck as a tow vehicle and plan on having it hooked up and using it as a brace to push against for the flat surfaces. The top edge is curved and wrinkled, do you have any suggestions to smooth these out? The only idea I have is drill a small hole insert a screw attach a wire pull it out and fasten it so it stays there. I keep thinking about what you said about only having One Shot! Maybe heat gun to help smooth out wrinkles? Thanks!
Great job. It looks like it came out great. I just purchased a camper that needs some repairs and this video really helped me understand what I have to do.
I am super impressed! I do have a couple of questions: If water got back there to create the delamination, it seems it would have rotted the plywood exterior wall. Did you replace any of that plywood? Also, what is your source for the syringes? Thanks!
I have the same question. In one image I could see what appeared to be separated layers of luan backerboard. I would think that separated luan backerboard would need to come out and replaced with new backerboard? What about opening the wall to check for mold or mildew? Perhaps I missed something.
Great video. I have some delamination that I am working on from the inside. There was water in the wall, so I removed the wall all the way down to the luan attached to the fiberglass. This is all dried out now and appears to be ok. My plan was to put 1.5” insulation board with some 5 mm luan on top of it to keep it flat with my current board that’s in tact. I bought some expoxy but was wondering if I could just use liquid nails since I have full access. I would then hold it snug from the inside. Would this be acceptable? If not, could I epoxy the board to the insulation , then saturate the insulation and put pressure on it from the inside(oddly enough using the bed frame, 3/4 plywood and slide jacks that I’ve never used)? I don’t have direct access to clamp or apply pressure on interior and exterior. My concern is that the resin may drip as you mentioned in Tip #1. Any help from others would help. These videos are the best I’ve seen. Thank you!
Yes. Many years ago, water running off of the rain gutter had gradually seeped into the rear corner trim (alot of rain runs down there). I removed that entire assembly and sealed it up very well (better than before) when I reinstalled it. I even made some modifications to the rain gutter when I put it back.
Hey Brian! Great vid! Thanks for sharing this repair. Looks like we’re about a year in since this repair happened. Do you still have this rig and did the repair hold? Thanks, ~ Ben
Hey - Did you have to brace anything on the inside? My fifth wheel suffered some water damage and I've replaced the Luan on the inside, however the old stuff was glued to my fiberglass. I'm wondering how other people have gone about rebonding them. Thanks!
@@RVwithTito I really really need some advice on a 2004 palomino thoroughbred 21ft camper, I have a bad wall issue and can't find anyone to give me advice on it. I have pictures I could email or however you would prefer, I could also take a video, I just really need advice so I can decide to fix or send it to the crusher
Gosh Tito, you are so very talented and handy, what I wouldn't do to have you as a life saver helper for my older fleetwood southwind which I am currently living in, that someone befor I owned it hit a tree limb on the driver's side edge where the wall meets the roof from the front corner about 10 feet down the rv. The whole side is coming off and I am not sure if it is repairable the way you are doing it. I was thinking of totally removing the two piece siding. It is split down the center with a lower and upper piece of siding the length of the motor home. I'm not sure how wise this would be or how hard it will be to get the siding back on afterwards. I'm thi king about just peeling it back and then trying to smear or inject resin to it then trying to clamp it somehow, but I'm hearing what your saying about doing small sections so as to not bite off more than I can chew all at once. I'm really up in arms about the whole thing, I'm on a pretty tight budget too and can kind of see this project escalating into an unforeseen abundance of expenses and labor. I can see it would definetly be best to have some extra helpers... one thing is certain, it keeps getting worse and really starts getting worse fast. I could drive it down the road last year, now I'm afraid the whole side would blow off going down the road if the wind gets under the cracks that are opening up. I wonder how hard it would be to remove the siding completely and replace the plywood underneath that is blowing up and causing the delamination? If you or anyone else has ever attempted this, could someone let me know? Thanks
I've seen places replace the entire side wall. I'm sure it'll cost you, but I wouldn't do it myself unless I could park the RV in a giant garage for a while. It's a really big job.
I have watched many of your videos on many different topics. I echo the comments that you are a great teacher and detailed as an engineer would be. Your attention to detail and quality is amazing and encouraging. Keep up the good work! I will keep watching.
Excellent! Hard to find this kind of information! I wonder if there is a way to drill through the fiberglass, and inject directly without dissembing the entire panel. Multiple drill holes and fill up the pockets. Drill lightly just through the fiberglass not wood. I plan to paint the RV with a bedliner, so it should cover up all the holes. Anyone done this?
Just had to write and say thank you for your video and links to all the supplies. We have a 2001 36' Itasca class A. We decided to change back bed to bunks. We knew the back wall was delaminated, but once in the wall, found the wood was dust. My husband and I worked together using your techniques and tips. Finished the last side wall tonight. It's not 100%, but it is SO much better. Thanks so much!
I’m inspired to repair some delamination on our Class C. I’ve used West System on a boat and learned household vinegar a good solvent. Safer way to clean up and smells nice. Thank you
I'm about to do this as well.. it looks like you did a 6 or 8 inch high strip a couple feet long.. how many syringes did that take per strip. Like a syringe full per foot?
Probably a couple syringe fulls for each small section. It may vary for yours. If you put in too much then more will ooze out. That's how you can figure out how much. Each day I start with a brand new syringe and tube. Good luck.
I have had an RV nightmare. I bought a new prowler lynx 255 which the shower drain wasn't working on and many more problems after waiting a month or so to get it after purchase from their holding "inspection". I took it back for warranty work where it then sat for almost a YEAR! This is a 2017 Prowler. Then hurricane harvey hit and I had some insulation damage when I finally got the rv back and the floor was bubbled. My shower drain still did not work and the tanks wouldn't drain. TURNS out after obtaining the schematics some idiot put the stickers for the tanks on backwards! Anyway I had to send the RV to the shop AGAIN where it sat for another 3-4 months. I got it back and not only did they not fix ANYTHING they made it worse! My lights were all flickering and it was just awful. Explore USA RV in alvin TX, do not buy from them! I move back to Arkansas (I was in the coast guard) after getting out and take it to another shop to fix all the previous issues the shop down there didnt. Guess what... they submitted claims for warranty work and it was DENIED because the other shop had already submitted claims that were paid out. Now im stuck with a "NEW" RV the manufacturer won't do anything about, nor the dealership I purchased it, that is now leaking horribly from the roof into the bathroom and delaminating on the side (which is smack in the middle) and into the bedroom. The floor was never replaced, they sanded it down and now it squeaks and the linoleum or whatever cheap crap the floor is made of has bubbled up behind the toilet. I mean this has been a nightmare for two years now and I am so sick of this thing. I'm just ranting to be fair, but hey, if you're in arkansas and know how to fix this.. let me know. Does anyone think the insulation or wood, or whatever the hell they put behind the fiberglass is damaged? I flex sealed the entire roof and fixtures and that stuff just faded in the sun and is gone. Now I have ants and all kinds of critters in here. I moved into it on some land im building a house on, got bit by a brown recluse in here last week. If it wasn't for school keeping me busy, I would actually go insane. Oh great video though!
Great information and video. I have a class A with a fiberglass roof, which is delaminating in some area. My question is the epoxy you used, are they good and strong enough to use on the roof...?
One tip or suggestion to save time: park it next to a wall and jack plywood boards against it. Great stuff, very thorough on the injector technique. Thank you for sharing.
Brian, you're a great teacher. You cover the fine points without getting repetitive and boring! Thanks for your willingness to share your experiences. Great job. bg
I really appreciate that feedback. Those decisions are difficult to make so thanks for letting me know I'm on the right track. 👍
Great walkthrough of the repair. Nice job!
Tip 11: Turn off all propane flames.
Tip 12: If needed, wrap tape around the wand to mark a certain place, so you know when you've reached a particular depth.
Great additional tips. Funny I found myself naturally counting tape sections as I did it. Thanks!
Wow, Brian... that was a serious undertaking! Very impressive. We're definitely grateful that this is one problem we don't seem to be having, but if we should, you've made an eye-opening piece about how to address it.
Yeah. Definitely a big job. As difficult as it was I feel I learned a lot from it and feel confident taking on any structural job now.
This is serious DIY stuff. It is good to know since delamination is too costly to have a dealer repair and without taking action...your entire rig can disintegrate over time. Thankd for showing us how you acomplished this.
You're welcome! I'm pretty happy with the result. In some ways, it's stronger than before. Plus I was able to seal up the trim and other pieces even better than before.
I think you did a 100% job my friend. My fifth wheel is a 2011, no serious delamination but caulking everything to help keep away delamination
Keep that up. It'll pay off. 👍
Wow, looks great. I did something similar a few years ago on a Minnie Winnie on the dinette area. The fiberglass had delaminated from the foam sheets. It was water damage so I already had the inside wood paneling removed. This is gonna sound crazy but I actually used expanding foam. That stuff is soooo sticky! Just dont use too much! I was able to get it shot into most areas then clamped it up on the outside kinda like you did. It actually worked great and is still holding a few years later. I'm not suggesting anyone do this but it did work great for my specific application. It finds its way into the little areas you cant reach, but if you use too much you could do more harm than good.
Interesting. Maybe the low expansion foam then. 👍
@@RVwithTito I was very careful not to use too much, I've seen that stuff blow out door panels when people tried to use it as sound deadening on cars. With the corrugated fiberglass on the outside it had places to escape. It actually turned out better than I predicted. I would do it again, if you've ever had that stuff on your hands, it sticks really really well lol.
Tito... you are one serious DIY'er! When I saw the title to this I almost skipped it knowing that it was above my DIY tolerance level, but after watching I could actually see myself doing this if needed. - Thanks for the great video!
Yeah. It's a lot of work but worth it. Even starting with a small spot will let you know whether it's something you want or can do. I will tell you though. I'm pretty confident now that I could fix any delamination or structural issue on my RV.
Yeah man! Your DIY instincts and overall skill-set are impressive. If I may ask, what is/was your career? You're quite multi-talented. - Thanks again for another great video!
Thanks. I was a software engineer and before that an electronics tech in the Navy. I'm mostly just curious and like to figure things out. Most of the DIY I picked up just working on my own house for the last 25 years.
I have never had delam, Tito. Now have an airstream and won't face that, but will have other challenges, I am sure. But, as usual, you did an excellent job and where many may think it can't be done, you proved it could.
Thanks! Enjoy that Airstream.
DUDE! I have watched dozens of video's on YT as I am about to tackle some delam on my 2018 Keystone Montana. I have to say, this was by far the most impressive, detail oriented and informed video I've come across. Very well done, sir.
Wow, thanks! Glad it helped.
I work on RV's now every day,.. and you did a great job.. Prepping is the key.. getting it all set up before any glueing..
Great to have your stamp of approval :) Yes, I agree that lots of planning is the key since you'll usually get just one try to get it right.
I just got an older rv that I'm sure I will find issues as I start replacing the roof and renovating the interior. Good idea.
Great write up for fixing delamination
Thank you
You are welcome!
It working!! I was also told that delamination was the end of the world and way too expensive to have professionally done. I wish I could add a pick of my set up! I’m doing a foot in the morning then a foot in the evening with the fast hardening and it’s working beautifully. Then I’m going to tape the edges with roofers flashing tape then replace trim!
Wow...awesome diy to repair on this level of expertise! It wouldn't surprise me if you get some feedback from those in the rv body repair industry. Very impressive!
Thanks Tito used your method to fix mine. Worked great. Water drain hose on the back side of my refrigerator oxidized and broke, water soked into the exterior freg compartment causing delamination. Make sure to check that drip hose on your freg.
That's great. I'm glad these tips helped you get it done. Good tip on the fridge drain.
I just ordered one of your kits through Amazon. I am about to get started on basically the same delamination job as you. Thanks for the great informative video. I really enjoy your content. Keep the great vids coming :)
Great information and timing. I started my delam repair yesterday on a hybrid bunk end. Different process, as I have removed the entire panel. I'm hoping for similar results. I am making a video, but my editing isn't as techy as yours. I will post in a day or so.
Thanks for sharing your skills and the links to supplies.
Great! Looking forward to checking out the video when you're done.
Part 1. ua-cam.com/video/82cx9cmZ1n0/v-deo.html
I used sealing foam it worked great plus it it cancels road noise alot better
Tito thanks for this video...we bought a used truck camper this year that we love but the outside is delaminating just like you showed and I was wondering how we could repair it without spending a fortune. This is definitely something we could figure out with your info and I thank you for that.
Great. Best of luck with the project. Glad it helped.
Very thorough and helpful. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for posting this series! I may have a chance to pick up a slide in truck camper and by the photos, I may have to do some of this or replace a few pieces so this will be very helpful. Steve
Hey Steve. Good luck with the camper. Hope it works for you 👍
@@RVwithTito Thanks but this freebie got away or it could have been another facebook scammer. Lol! I'll keep looking!
Bummer
Thank you so much for the videos on delamination. I am thinking of getting a used motorhome but there is delamination so researching if it possible to fix. Expat living in England 👍
Yes. It's possible depending on how much there is and how much reconstruction you want to do. Good luck!
Thanks for the video. We are having the same problem. We think we’re going to fix it with a new RV.
Yeah. That's one way to fix it :)
Good Morning. Good hearing from you. I hope I never need to do that kind of repair. Jack
Yup. It was a challenge but I'm glad it all came out well.
Seriously impressive work and a huge undertaking. Good job Brian!!
Hey thanks! Yes it was quite the project. Glad I finally got it done.
..wow, I can appreciate all the work you've done,..I can't say it would be a worthwhile investment for me.
Thanks for the run through! Great job!
Your a nice guy! I wish you the best
Great Job Tito..! It looks like new..!
Yup. It is lookin pretty spiffy.
Hey your video is the best I've seen so far. Question, why don't I see people using "Git Rot" for this? It comes from the marine world and is designed exactly for this purpose. I believe it would penetrate better and result in a stronger more solid repair. I used it on the cabin of an old boat I had with a thin layer of fiberglass over plywood. The big downside is that it is very pricey.
Thanks. Didn't know about it....plus the downside you mentioned. Hopefully I won't have to do it again, but if I do...
Pretty big project but well done. Number 10 is probably the most important tip. When working under time restraints you want to know exactly how to move forward. Awesome job that certainly deserves a pat on the back.
Thanks! Patting now 😊
Thank you so much, very helpful and a good, informative video. Well done! thanks
Great job. You give confidence that this can actually be fixed by a DIYer. Did you have any swelling of the underlayment? Mine (2006 Jayco) seems to be swelling as if affected by water from the bottom of the rv wall. Thanks and keep up the great work!
Thanks Jim. Yes, there was some swelling in places but I made sure it was completely dried out before saturating it with resin.
Nice video Brian, well done!
Thank you this was very informative
Glad it was helpful!
I just completed re-laminating one side/corner of my 5th wheel today. I used this guide and others and put my own twist on it. We'll see how it turns out. Epoxy is messy. The West system with the pumps is great! Makes it easy to mix.
How did it work out for you?
@@dominofive5075 It worked great! Everywhere that I was able to reach penetration and not have the epoxy leak into the wall is still very solidly attached.
@wtbman that is awesome! Thank you. God bless!
It will be nice if you show how you remove the corner trim
There's a rubber piece down the middle. Pry it off and you'll see screws underneath. Remove the screws and pry off the trim and Butyl tape. Hope that helps.
Very expensive repair if done by a shop. My previous 5th wheel delaminated before I had known what delamination was. Took it to a shop and 6500 dollars later it was fixed. Fast forward to my most recent toyhauler it had happened again. I did it myself and 500 dollars later it was fixed. I learned my DYI lesson but am still learning what should be rule #11.... caulk the seems on your rig religiously and I may never have to fix anything like that again. Thanks for the video you are awesome.
Just finished recaulking the entire RV yesterday 👍👍
Thanks god bless
Always welcome
Save yourself a wee bit of time and get some "epoxy mixing nozzles" and application gun. But you repair looks great and you took the time to do it right.
Thanks!
Thank you so much, so many videos are just the best thing is to prevent it, now where that is common sense, there is hardly any who tell how to do it. I bought a used RV that they hid a lot of issues, and I was a newbie to RV's. Luckily we were able to fix any leaks and repairs, there is a bit of deamination that occurred. Thank you so very much.
Glad it was helpful. The repair is still holding up.
Sold my laminated siding camper before that happened. Bought an aluminum sided one with good paint over it. Doubt I'll have a laminated sided camper again.
in a word, wow! that was a massive undertaking. Power to you for doing it in the first place and showing it too.
Thanks. I'm really glad I finally got it done. Once the weather starts to turn I would have been out of luck until next year.
Good job very helpful
Nice work and great presentation. I'm experiencing this issue with my fifth wheel and had similar plans to try a restoration. I am curious about how you addressed any dry rot in the areas affected? Thanks for all the helpful tips I've pulled off your channel.
All I did was pump alot of epoxy into the affected areas and layers hoping it would penetrate the material as much as possible. That's about all I could do.
RVwithTito thats what figure. Looks like it achieved the desired result. Guess there's nothing left to do but get it done. Thank you again.
Holy cow. That was a project. And you pulled that off. Can’t imagine how much a dealer would have charged. Guess they would have pulled the whole panel off and redone. You saved yourself BIG time cash. Looks great. Great job. Thanks for sharing.
You're right. Most dealers or shops will remove and replace the enter wall or section of the wall so that they can warranty the work. Of course, this will probably cost thousands. The approach I took has no guarantees. It's up to you to do a thourough evaluation of the problem and do your best repair. If done well, it can have acceptable results for just a couple hundred bucks in materials. I still have more resin, syringes and tubing so I can certainly fix other things if they come up. Fingers crossed - hope they don't.
This is my new favorite RV repair channel by the way, Tito is it? You are great!
Glad to help. Welcome to the channel! ~Brian (www.rvwithtito.com/who-is-tito)
Awesome video and process demo!! Do you know why it delaminated in the first place? Seems like you might have to revisit this whole undertaking if there is a slow leak somewhere or some other underlying cause.
Thanks. The delamination was a result of worn seals in the corner molding. The rain gutter also dumps water right in that area. I removed the corner piece and reasealed it when I put it back.
Good vid. Thx for sharing.
Did you make a conscious effort to glue between all the separated laminations? Just wondering if say there were 5 plys separated and glue only got between 2 of them, what would hold the others?
Yes where necessary and possible to gain access. It only applied to a couple of areas though. Delam was mostly in the outer layer. Some areas I simply pumped a bunch of resin in there hoping it would soak through as much as possible.
Fantastic!!! Thanks for the great explanation, details and 10 tips. Very useful - thank you.
You're very welcome!
What city and state do you live in? I have a 2016 toyhauler that’ has an area that is delaminating, can you fix it?
Thanks for your great video Tito. Your way of explaining keeps the viewer interested all the way through. Any suggestions from you or someone you know on how to repair the bottom skirting of an RV where water ingress has basically rotten the plywood that is sandwiched between the outer and the inner layer? This part of the wall is below the living space of the RV. It basically is for aesthetic and to keep mud and rocks from flying out. Thanks.
I'm not familiar with that area. But if the outside layer is in tact then I'd probably repair it from the back.
Great job Tito, I will be planning for future repair I have some deflection in 🌟 board wall..
I sent you message as well
Nice job👍
I am pretty handy - but not in a million years! I would never have the courage to bite off such a project. I did however enjoy your sharing this experience - thank you.
It was quite the project that I care not to repeat. But now I know how :)
Any tips on how to create a clamping type system for the front of a travel trailer? Our front facing fiberglass part is delaminating.
Probably something with 2x4s and ratchet straps.
Hi. New here and new at my 2004: Zeppelin rehab... My question is about resealing the edge after I fix the delam. The moisture is getting in from the trim edge. I have butyl tape. The trim is in tact... Is there a video someone can point me to that will show me how to put things back together waterproof? I have 2 days before the rain comes back ❤
Here's what I'd do (1) Clean the surface area and inside of the trim really well and make sure it's dry (2) Place the Butyl tape inside the trim piece where it makes contact with the side panels - make sure they're are no gaps in the Butyl (3) Position the trim on the seam (4) screw through the Butyl tape to secure the trim - consider getting new screws if they're rusted (5) trim any excess Butyl that oozes out (6) Optional: Add a small bead of silicon sealant over the edges especially in the problem areas like near the top.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
awesome. thanks so much!!! @@RVwithTito
Great video! I wish you had shown more of the rigging. What did you attach the straps to on the other side? Where did you put clamps where there were no openings? Did you squirt the resin between several plywood layers like an onion? I know you mentioned to look for that but was the damage separating the layers?
I ran the straps down to the other side and back under to the frame of the chassis. I suggest pitting a towel or something under the strap on the corners to protect the paint job. I started by wrapping the straps aroind the ladder but it put too much strain on it and i had to do some repair on the ladder mount. I wish I had a tree or anything else nearby but I didnt.
Very well done. I've been in the fiberglass industry for over 30 years and the video gave me a little incite on a better way to inject the resin.
Great to hear. Especially coming from a pro. Thanks!
What was the total cost to do this? What was the total man hours from start to full completion for the repair?
About 50 total man hours of my labor over 7 days. $200 - $250 in additional parts (mostly the stuff in the parts list plus some 2x4s and a couple extra clamps). I had the rest of the tools and scrap wood already. Day 1 was spent prepping, removing stuff, trying out some clamping. Then 5 partial days of glueing and clamping. Then one final day putting everything back together and resealing.
Wow that is not bad at all
Thanks Brian, I will be doing this as soon as it warms up. One good thing , the Expoy you used is manufacture in my old hone town.
Maaaan very helpful and very well explained especially with your 10 tips that's usually something everybody has to go through themselves to understand just to find that they do not have the patience to finish
Glad it helped. It was a big project to take one and I learned a lot doing it.
junk finish..metal for me, I learned my lesson on those disposable trailers..new way of replacing newer trailers ugghhh
You are fearless! Great job on this difficult repair!
Well there was a little fear until my plan started coming together :)
You did an AWESOME Repair.. GREAT VIDEO Thanks for sharing..
Glad you liked it. Thanks!
This may be the route I go on my rig. It's been about 3 years since you've done this work. Do you feel it has held up well considering the amount of effort you put into it? Well done, by the way!
Yes. The areas I've treated have held up. Some small spots I didn't treat may need to be addressed. Overall, I'm still pleased. It aint perfect if you look closely.
Honest question here. Would it have been easier to learn how to re laminate the existing laminate all together? I watch some videos at seems like it would have been easier
Probably. A much larger scale project though. I would need a large covered shed, more equipment and helpers.
Hey thanks for the great videos man. Quick question. I was wondering if you think it’s possible to inject epoxy through the fiberglass (into the center of the bubbles) and use body filler to patch the holes, especially in the areas you couldn’t get to?
Note: I will be painting my entire rv anyway.
If successful I think it would save time instead of having to remove everything?
Yes. That's another technique if you can't get around to the side.
God bless you sir for sharing and helping people
Good video Brian, One thing you did not comment on is how and where the delamination started in the first place. Was it a roof leak, seam, clearance lights, vents?
It was along the corner seam that I removed. Just so happens that was where the rain gutter dumped all the run off. Made some mods so now it's much better and sealed up much more now
Great video, I have this problem on the front cap of my Keystone Sprinter, I use a E350, 7.3 diesel box truck as a tow vehicle and plan on having it hooked up and using it as a brace to push against for the flat surfaces. The top edge is curved and wrinkled, do you have any suggestions to smooth these out? The only idea I have is drill a small hole insert a screw attach a wire pull it out and fasten it so it stays there. I keep thinking about what you said about only having One Shot! Maybe heat gun to help smooth out wrinkles? Thanks!
Why did you not turn the long clamping 2x4 on edge? they would be much more rigid for clamping that way
True. I tried that a couple times, but it was difficult to keep still and on its side.
Nice job, do you know if the resin can melt the styrofoam insulation ?
I can't say. I know some adhesives do melt it.
How hard would it be if you ever needed to access anything where this stuff was injected? Does it bond like fiberglass etc?
I think it's a one and done kind of thing. You basically get one shot at it. The resin soaks into the material.
Do you inject the epoxy into all the delaminated wall layers (three in my case), or does the epoxy bleed through one layer to the others?
You can inject it wherever it's needed. Just compress it really well so there aren't unwanted bulges when it cures. Good luck!
Great job. It looks like it came out great. I just purchased a camper that needs some repairs and this video really helped me understand what I have to do.
Great video. How hight did u get in a day? Like 2’ high ? More or less.
Took about a week. I only did one section per day and let it cure for 24 hours before the next. There were 5 or 6 sections.
Great video. Is it possible to probe vertically or is doing it horizontally the only way to make it work?
Oh sure. I came down vertically from the roof and from the bottom compartment. Basucally inject wherever you can.
I am super impressed! I do have a couple of questions: If water got back there to create the delamination, it seems it would have rotted the plywood exterior wall. Did you replace any of that plywood? Also, what is your source for the syringes? Thanks!
I have the same question. In one image I could see what appeared to be separated layers of luan backerboard. I would think that separated luan backerboard would need to come out and replaced with new backerboard? What about opening the wall to check for mold or mildew? Perhaps I missed something.
Great video. I have some delamination that I am working on from the inside. There was water in the wall, so I removed the wall all the way down to the luan attached to the fiberglass. This is all dried out now and appears to be ok. My plan was to put 1.5” insulation board with some 5 mm luan on top of it to keep it flat with my current board that’s in tact. I bought some expoxy but was wondering if I could just use liquid nails since I have full access. I would then hold it snug from the inside. Would this be acceptable? If not, could I epoxy the board to the insulation , then saturate the insulation and put pressure on it from the inside(oddly enough using the bed frame, 3/4 plywood and slide jacks that I’ve never used)? I don’t have direct access to clamp or apply pressure on interior and exterior. My concern is that the resin may drip as you mentioned in Tip #1.
Any help from others would help. These videos are the best I’ve seen. Thank you!
Whatever you do....test the adhesive on a piece of that foam and fiberglass to make sure that they don't have an unwanted reaction...Best of Luck!!
Did you find the source of the original delamination problem?
Yes. Many years ago, water running off of the rain gutter had gradually seeped into the rear corner trim (alot of rain runs down there). I removed that entire assembly and sealed it up very well (better than before) when I reinstalled it. I even made some modifications to the rain gutter when I put it back.
Hey Brian! Great vid! Thanks for sharing this repair. Looks like we’re about a year in since this repair happened. Do you still have this rig and did the repair hold?
Thanks,
~ Ben
Yes. It's still holding up well. I've repaired a couple other small spots since.
Hey - Did you have to brace anything on the inside? My fifth wheel suffered some water damage and I've replaced the Luan on the inside, however the old stuff was glued to my fiberglass. I'm wondering how other people have gone about rebonding them. Thanks!
I did not need to do that. I'm sure it would. Easier than what I had to do on the outside.
Thanks Brian once again you have given me confidence to do this myself.
Hope I don't have to do it again, but I hope my experience helps you out.
I can see you put a lot of thought into this before starting and it looks like it paid off. Thanks for sharing what you did.
Yes. I've been thinking about it for some time. You're welcome. I hope it helps.
@@RVwithTito I really really need some advice on a 2004 palomino thoroughbred 21ft camper, I have a bad wall issue and can't find anyone to give me advice on it. I have pictures I could email or however you would prefer, I could also take a video, I just really need advice so I can decide to fix or send it to the crusher
Thanks for the video. How big was the syringe you used?
Gosh Tito, you are so very talented and handy, what I wouldn't do to have you as a life saver helper for my older fleetwood southwind which I am currently living in, that someone befor I owned it hit a tree limb on the driver's side edge where the wall meets the roof from the front corner about 10 feet down the rv. The whole side is coming off and I am not sure if it is repairable the way you are doing it. I was thinking of totally removing the two piece siding. It is split down the center with a lower and upper piece of siding the length of the motor home. I'm not sure how wise this would be or how hard it will be to get the siding back on afterwards. I'm thi king about just peeling it back and then trying to smear or inject resin to it then trying to clamp it somehow, but I'm hearing what your saying about doing small sections so as to not bite off more than I can chew all at once. I'm really up in arms about the whole thing, I'm on a pretty tight budget too and can kind of see this project escalating into an unforeseen abundance of expenses and labor. I can see it would definetly be best to have some extra helpers... one thing is certain, it keeps getting worse and really starts getting worse fast. I could drive it down the road last year, now I'm afraid the whole side would blow off going down the road if the wind gets under the cracks that are opening up. I wonder how hard it would be to remove the siding completely and replace the plywood underneath that is blowing up and causing the delamination?
If you or anyone else has ever attempted this, could someone let me know? Thanks
I've seen places replace the entire side wall. I'm sure it'll cost you, but I wouldn't do it myself unless I could park the RV in a giant garage for a while. It's a really big job.
I have watched many of your videos on many different topics. I echo the comments that you are a great teacher and detailed as an engineer would be. Your attention to detail and quality is amazing and encouraging. Keep up the good work! I will keep watching.
Man, that's one hell of a repair to take on. You never cease to amaze. Well done!
Hey Thanks! I think I amazed myself with this one :)
Excellent! Hard to find this kind of information! I wonder if there is a way to drill through the fiberglass, and inject directly without dissembing the entire panel. Multiple drill holes and fill up the pockets. Drill lightly just through the fiberglass not wood. I plan to paint the RV with a bedliner, so it should cover up all the holes. Anyone done this?
You could do that. You'd have to make sure you could get enough material in. You may want to mix it thinner.
Just had to write and say thank you for your video and links to all the supplies. We have a 2001 36' Itasca class A. We decided to change back bed to bunks. We knew the back wall was delaminated, but once in the wall, found the wood was dust. My husband and I worked together using your techniques and tips. Finished the last side wall tonight. It's not 100%, but it is SO much better. Thanks so much!
That is awesome! Great job. Glad the video helped you out. It's been a while, so I had to watch it again :)
I’m inspired to repair some delamination on our Class C. I’ve used West System on a boat and learned household vinegar a good solvent. Safer way to clean up and smells nice. Thank you
Sounds great! Appreciate the vinegar tip.
I'm in WA state too and our RV has begun delam' how long has your repair lasted? We're contemplating doing this vs paying to have it done.
The parts I treated have held up. Some smaller spots have popped up. I fixed them. It ain't perfect but it's good enough for me. Good luck!
I'm about to do this as well.. it looks like you did a 6 or 8 inch high strip a couple feet long.. how many syringes did that take per strip. Like a syringe full per foot?
Probably a couple syringe fulls for each small section. It may vary for yours. If you put in too much then more will ooze out. That's how you can figure out how much. Each day I start with a brand new syringe and tube. Good luck.
I have had an RV nightmare. I bought a new prowler lynx 255 which the shower drain wasn't working on and many more problems after waiting a month or so to get it after purchase from their holding "inspection". I took it back for warranty work where it then sat for almost a YEAR! This is a 2017 Prowler. Then hurricane harvey hit and I had some insulation damage when I finally got the rv back and the floor was bubbled. My shower drain still did not work and the tanks wouldn't drain. TURNS out after obtaining the schematics some idiot put the stickers for the tanks on backwards! Anyway I had to send the RV to the shop AGAIN where it sat for another 3-4 months. I got it back and not only did they not fix ANYTHING they made it worse! My lights were all flickering and it was just awful. Explore USA RV in alvin TX, do not buy from them! I move back to Arkansas (I was in the coast guard) after getting out and take it to another shop to fix all the previous issues the shop down there didnt. Guess what... they submitted claims for warranty work and it was DENIED because the other shop had already submitted claims that were paid out. Now im stuck with a "NEW" RV the manufacturer won't do anything about, nor the dealership I purchased it, that is now leaking horribly from the roof into the bathroom and delaminating on the side (which is smack in the middle) and into the bedroom. The floor was never replaced, they sanded it down and now it squeaks and the linoleum or whatever cheap crap the floor is made of has bubbled up behind the toilet. I mean this has been a nightmare for two years now and I am so sick of this thing. I'm just ranting to be fair, but hey, if you're in arkansas and know how to fix this.. let me know. Does anyone think the insulation or wood, or whatever the hell they put behind the fiberglass is damaged? I flex sealed the entire roof and fixtures and that stuff just faded in the sun and is gone. Now I have ants and all kinds of critters in here. I moved into it on some land im building a house on, got bit by a brown recluse in here last week. If it wasn't for school keeping me busy, I would actually go insane. Oh great video though!
Great information and video. I have a class A with a fiberglass roof, which is delaminating in some area. My question is the epoxy you used, are they good and strong enough to use on the roof...?
One tip or suggestion to save time: park it next to a wall and jack plywood boards against it. Great stuff, very thorough on the injector technique. Thank you for sharing.
Yes. Good tip. If I had a wall available I would have done that.
Tito - thanks so much for your video.
You're welcome.