DUDE! I have watched dozens of video's on YT as I am about to tackle some delam on my 2018 Keystone Montana. I have to say, this was by far the most impressive, detail oriented and informed video I've come across. Very well done, sir.
I just completed re-laminating one side/corner of my 5th wheel today. I used this guide and others and put my own twist on it. We'll see how it turns out. Epoxy is messy. The West system with the pumps is great! Makes it easy to mix.
@@dominofive5075 It worked great! Everywhere that I was able to reach penetration and not have the epoxy leak into the wall is still very solidly attached.
Great walkthrough of the repair. Nice job! Tip 11: Turn off all propane flames. Tip 12: If needed, wrap tape around the wand to mark a certain place, so you know when you've reached a particular depth.
Brian, you're a great teacher. You cover the fine points without getting repetitive and boring! Thanks for your willingness to share your experiences. Great job. bg
Wow, Brian... that was a serious undertaking! Very impressive. We're definitely grateful that this is one problem we don't seem to be having, but if we should, you've made an eye-opening piece about how to address it.
Wow, looks great. I did something similar a few years ago on a Minnie Winnie on the dinette area. The fiberglass had delaminated from the foam sheets. It was water damage so I already had the inside wood paneling removed. This is gonna sound crazy but I actually used expanding foam. That stuff is soooo sticky! Just dont use too much! I was able to get it shot into most areas then clamped it up on the outside kinda like you did. It actually worked great and is still holding a few years later. I'm not suggesting anyone do this but it did work great for my specific application. It finds its way into the little areas you cant reach, but if you use too much you could do more harm than good.
@@RVwithTito I was very careful not to use too much, I've seen that stuff blow out door panels when people tried to use it as sound deadening on cars. With the corrugated fiberglass on the outside it had places to escape. It actually turned out better than I predicted. I would do it again, if you've ever had that stuff on your hands, it sticks really really well lol.
This is serious DIY stuff. It is good to know since delamination is too costly to have a dealer repair and without taking action...your entire rig can disintegrate over time. Thankd for showing us how you acomplished this.
You're welcome! I'm pretty happy with the result. In some ways, it's stronger than before. Plus I was able to seal up the trim and other pieces even better than before.
Just had to write and say thank you for your video and links to all the supplies. We have a 2001 36' Itasca class A. We decided to change back bed to bunks. We knew the back wall was delaminated, but once in the wall, found the wood was dust. My husband and I worked together using your techniques and tips. Finished the last side wall tonight. It's not 100%, but it is SO much better. Thanks so much!
I have watched many of your videos on many different topics. I echo the comments that you are a great teacher and detailed as an engineer would be. Your attention to detail and quality is amazing and encouraging. Keep up the good work! I will keep watching.
Holy cow. That was a project. And you pulled that off. Can’t imagine how much a dealer would have charged. Guess they would have pulled the whole panel off and redone. You saved yourself BIG time cash. Looks great. Great job. Thanks for sharing.
You're right. Most dealers or shops will remove and replace the enter wall or section of the wall so that they can warranty the work. Of course, this will probably cost thousands. The approach I took has no guarantees. It's up to you to do a thourough evaluation of the problem and do your best repair. If done well, it can have acceptable results for just a couple hundred bucks in materials. I still have more resin, syringes and tubing so I can certainly fix other things if they come up. Fingers crossed - hope they don't.
Very expensive repair if done by a shop. My previous 5th wheel delaminated before I had known what delamination was. Took it to a shop and 6500 dollars later it was fixed. Fast forward to my most recent toyhauler it had happened again. I did it myself and 500 dollars later it was fixed. I learned my DYI lesson but am still learning what should be rule #11.... caulk the seems on your rig religiously and I may never have to fix anything like that again. Thanks for the video you are awesome.
I am pretty handy - but not in a million years! I would never have the courage to bite off such a project. I did however enjoy your sharing this experience - thank you.
Tito... you are one serious DIY'er! When I saw the title to this I almost skipped it knowing that it was above my DIY tolerance level, but after watching I could actually see myself doing this if needed. - Thanks for the great video!
Yeah. It's a lot of work but worth it. Even starting with a small spot will let you know whether it's something you want or can do. I will tell you though. I'm pretty confident now that I could fix any delamination or structural issue on my RV.
Yeah man! Your DIY instincts and overall skill-set are impressive. If I may ask, what is/was your career? You're quite multi-talented. - Thanks again for another great video!
Thanks. I was a software engineer and before that an electronics tech in the Navy. I'm mostly just curious and like to figure things out. Most of the DIY I picked up just working on my own house for the last 25 years.
Pretty big project but well done. Number 10 is probably the most important tip. When working under time restraints you want to know exactly how to move forward. Awesome job that certainly deserves a pat on the back.
Maaaan very helpful and very well explained especially with your 10 tips that's usually something everybody has to go through themselves to understand just to find that they do not have the patience to finish
Thank you so much, so many videos are just the best thing is to prevent it, now where that is common sense, there is hardly any who tell how to do it. I bought a used RV that they hid a lot of issues, and I was a newbie to RV's. Luckily we were able to fix any leaks and repairs, there is a bit of deamination that occurred. Thank you so very much.
I have never had delam, Tito. Now have an airstream and won't face that, but will have other challenges, I am sure. But, as usual, you did an excellent job and where many may think it can't be done, you proved it could.
I’m inspired to repair some delamination on our Class C. I’ve used West System on a boat and learned household vinegar a good solvent. Safer way to clean up and smells nice. Thank you
It working!! I was also told that delamination was the end of the world and way too expensive to have professionally done. I wish I could add a pick of my set up! I’m doing a foot in the morning then a foot in the evening with the fast hardening and it’s working beautifully. Then I’m going to tape the edges with roofers flashing tape then replace trim!
@@RVwithTito I really really need some advice on a 2004 palomino thoroughbred 21ft camper, I have a bad wall issue and can't find anyone to give me advice on it. I have pictures I could email or however you would prefer, I could also take a video, I just really need advice so I can decide to fix or send it to the crusher
One tip or suggestion to save time: park it next to a wall and jack plywood boards against it. Great stuff, very thorough on the injector technique. Thank you for sharing.
This is kind of a reminder that we all need to keep up with the sealant on EVERY seam on our rigs. Recently on a trip we noticed some water coming in and thought it was coming from our open window, so we shut it. Water was still coming in. What I found was the caulk/sealant for the front cap had developed gaps and separated, allowing the water in. I was able to stop the leaks with some eternabond tape, and now I will be going over the entire rig.
Wow...awesome diy to repair on this level of expertise! It wouldn't surprise me if you get some feedback from those in the rv body repair industry. Very impressive!
Thanks Tito used your method to fix mine. Worked great. Water drain hose on the back side of my refrigerator oxidized and broke, water soked into the exterior freg compartment causing delamination. Make sure to check that drip hose on your freg.
Great job. It looks like it came out great. I just purchased a camper that needs some repairs and this video really helped me understand what I have to do.
Thanks for posting this series! I may have a chance to pick up a slide in truck camper and by the photos, I may have to do some of this or replace a few pieces so this will be very helpful. Steve
Great information and timing. I started my delam repair yesterday on a hybrid bunk end. Different process, as I have removed the entire panel. I'm hoping for similar results. I am making a video, but my editing isn't as techy as yours. I will post in a day or so. Thanks for sharing your skills and the links to supplies.
I always enjoy how detailed you are with all of your projects and repairs. We are completely repairing a 2020 Coachmen Mirada that did not receive much love in it's prior life so all of your tips are very helpful. Thank you
very clever you are with wedges and boards and epoxy. West Marine has good chemicals. I used panel glue and tried to do too big of an area at once. It left some bubbles.
Save yourself a wee bit of time and get some "epoxy mixing nozzles" and application gun. But you repair looks great and you took the time to do it right.
Thanks for your great video Tito. Your way of explaining keeps the viewer interested all the way through. Any suggestions from you or someone you know on how to repair the bottom skirting of an RV where water ingress has basically rotten the plywood that is sandwiched between the outer and the inner layer? This part of the wall is below the living space of the RV. It basically is for aesthetic and to keep mud and rocks from flying out. Thanks.
Thank you so much for the videos on delamination. I am thinking of getting a used motorhome but there is delamination so researching if it possible to fix. Expat living in England 👍
I just ordered one of your kits through Amazon. I am about to get started on basically the same delamination job as you. Thanks for the great informative video. I really enjoy your content. Keep the great vids coming :)
Tito thanks for this video...we bought a used truck camper this year that we love but the outside is delaminating just like you showed and I was wondering how we could repair it without spending a fortune. This is definitely something we could figure out with your info and I thank you for that.
One thing that came to mind, when you were doing the clamping system: Will it have been possible to use Neodymium Magnets perhaps? Maybe a few sets that are about 100 lbs in strength? This way you can place one magnet or piece of steel on the inside wall of the RV and another magnet on the outside wall (while protecting the walls of course).
Thanks for the video. I used your tips for my own repair. West system products are amazing. I was prepared in some areas from your video but not in others, since experience is the greatest teacher after all. I wasn't totally prepared for the low viscosity of the mixed epoxy. The manufacturer recommended a test mix. A good idea. I found some rigid tubing and used west marine fillable caulk tubes. Plan was to pump the remaining epoxy out with air. Not necessary it just flowed out with gravity alone, with little slope. Withdrawing the tube slowly with steady pressure worked best. Perhaps a helper could be pushing on the laminate to better distribute the epoxy. Several tests glues with plywood scrap let me know everything worked. A day or so of drying behind the laminate with a shop vac was also done. Pretty happy with the results but may need to touch up some areas. With all I have learned here and on my own should go smooth. Thanks!
Good video Brian, One thing you did not comment on is how and where the delamination started in the first place. Was it a roof leak, seam, clearance lights, vents?
It was along the corner seam that I removed. Just so happens that was where the rain gutter dumped all the run off. Made some mods so now it's much better and sealed up much more now
Hey your video is the best I've seen so far. Question, why don't I see people using "Git Rot" for this? It comes from the marine world and is designed exactly for this purpose. I believe it would penetrate better and result in a stronger more solid repair. I used it on the cabin of an old boat I had with a thin layer of fiberglass over plywood. The big downside is that it is very pricey.
Greaat content because I am facing this issue! A thought I have to simplify the process is ..Why not drill through the RV's delamination "bubble". Depending on the bubble size, a few holes may be necessary. Then inject the mixed epoxy into the hole (thinned with acetone), then clamp. Epoxy may come out of some holes, showing how effective the epoxy has spread with clamping. Later, after epoxy cures, cover the hole(s) and paint. Please give me your opinion.
Thanks for all the great videos. I did this repair a couple weeks ago and had trouble with the mixture being too watery and just running down instead of spreading out. I ended up using a caulking gun, 3/4 pvc tubing, from a sprinkler system, stuck on the end of a tube of heavy duty construction adhesive. It ended up being a lot easier than dealing with the mixing of resin.
G Henrickson I had to move the tube around a lot just like in the video and I didn’t get it clammed as well as Brian but it spreads out and stays in place. The resin drips all the way to the ground if you’re not careful.
Did you make a conscious effort to glue between all the separated laminations? Just wondering if say there were 5 plys separated and glue only got between 2 of them, what would hold the others?
Yes where necessary and possible to gain access. It only applied to a couple of areas though. Delam was mostly in the outer layer. Some areas I simply pumped a bunch of resin in there hoping it would soak through as much as possible.
I am currently looking for ideas on how to re adhere the graffiato on the exterior of my house. It's a huge undertaking using about 100 liters of adhesive. Some useful tips there in your video.
I am super impressed! I do have a couple of questions: If water got back there to create the delamination, it seems it would have rotted the plywood exterior wall. Did you replace any of that plywood? Also, what is your source for the syringes? Thanks!
I have the same question. In one image I could see what appeared to be separated layers of luan backerboard. I would think that separated luan backerboard would need to come out and replaced with new backerboard? What about opening the wall to check for mold or mildew? Perhaps I missed something.
Great job. You give confidence that this can actually be fixed by a DIYer. Did you have any swelling of the underlayment? Mine (2006 Jayco) seems to be swelling as if affected by water from the bottom of the rv wall. Thanks and keep up the great work!
Great video! I wish you had shown more of the rigging. What did you attach the straps to on the other side? Where did you put clamps where there were no openings? Did you squirt the resin between several plywood layers like an onion? I know you mentioned to look for that but was the damage separating the layers?
I ran the straps down to the other side and back under to the frame of the chassis. I suggest pitting a towel or something under the strap on the corners to protect the paint job. I started by wrapping the straps aroind the ladder but it put too much strain on it and i had to do some repair on the ladder mount. I wish I had a tree or anything else nearby but I didnt.
Could you supplement this video with another that is specific to your clamping system? I'd like to see how you anchored the top and bottom of your vertical 2x4s.
I ran a ratchet strap across the roof and down the other side for the top and another under the RV for the bottom of the 2x4s. The rest of the tightening was with the wedges.
@@jamesclark7248 Great. Best to put a towel or some padding under the straps to protect the trim on the edges. Also, don't anchor them to the ladder. I did that the first time and it pulled up some of the ladder screws and roof membrane that I had to repair. Good luck!
Sold my laminated siding camper before that happened. Bought an aluminum sided one with good paint over it. Doubt I'll have a laminated sided camper again.
Gosh Tito, you are so very talented and handy, what I wouldn't do to have you as a life saver helper for my older fleetwood southwind which I am currently living in, that someone befor I owned it hit a tree limb on the driver's side edge where the wall meets the roof from the front corner about 10 feet down the rv. The whole side is coming off and I am not sure if it is repairable the way you are doing it. I was thinking of totally removing the two piece siding. It is split down the center with a lower and upper piece of siding the length of the motor home. I'm not sure how wise this would be or how hard it will be to get the siding back on afterwards. I'm thi king about just peeling it back and then trying to smear or inject resin to it then trying to clamp it somehow, but I'm hearing what your saying about doing small sections so as to not bite off more than I can chew all at once. I'm really up in arms about the whole thing, I'm on a pretty tight budget too and can kind of see this project escalating into an unforeseen abundance of expenses and labor. I can see it would definetly be best to have some extra helpers... one thing is certain, it keeps getting worse and really starts getting worse fast. I could drive it down the road last year, now I'm afraid the whole side would blow off going down the road if the wind gets under the cracks that are opening up. I wonder how hard it would be to remove the siding completely and replace the plywood underneath that is blowing up and causing the delamination? If you or anyone else has ever attempted this, could someone let me know? Thanks
I've seen places replace the entire side wall. I'm sure it'll cost you, but I wouldn't do it myself unless I could park the RV in a giant garage for a while. It's a really big job.
You may have already answered this in one of the other questions, but what is the best way to remove and re-install the trim pieces? ie, the corner trim, water inlet trim, etc? Do you just use some flat plastic pry tool? And, did you use the same resin to re-install those, or possibly silicone caulk?
Yes. After removing the screws, use a pry tool to slowly lift it off. There should be Butyl tape underneath that needs to be scraped off. I put new Butyl tape on when reinstalling it, the followed up with silicon caulk all around for extra protection.
@@RVwithTito I understand silicone caulk should not be used as anything released over the silicone will not stick. I have read to use only RV caulks like a Dicor brand. GREAT video btw!! Thank you so much, I am going to subscribe.
Interesting to see someone glue the delaminated luan together rather than just rip it out and replace it. Totally cool actually. How bad the water damage is might be an issue, but I like the idea. I don't know why they don't use or manufacture the right kind of luan/plywood with exterior grade glue in the first place, so doing it after the fact at least makes sense. Epoxy works and I love your innovative clamping routine. My father and older brothers did some wooden boat building when I was a kid and they used some dark brown water proof marine grade glue to glue things that was a lot thinner than epoxy and I am thinking that would work, too. Even Titebond II or III would probably work. The one thing that is unclear to me is which layers you got the epoxy between: the wood layers of plywood or just between the fiberglass layer and the luan/plywood layer. Epoxy is obviously better to glue down the top external fiberglass layer to the wood. How many layers do you glue? Your luan was probably still in pretty good shape? Water leaks are the death knell to any RV and something you need to keep on top of all the time.
Thank you! !!!! Your RV is far nicer than mine. I have similar fiberglass "siding" what are your thoughts on "hole sawing" or drilling and epoxy-ing? In my case it doesn't have to be pretty, but water tight and functional.
Honest question here. Would it have been easier to learn how to re laminate the existing laminate all together? I watch some videos at seems like it would have been easier
I am looking at a 19 yr old 22 ft very hard to find in our area Class C that has many delamed issues on all 4 sides ( many very small but obvious). I really want to buy within state and even better local. The one side wall window and bottom of the overhead bunk is the worst feels firm but has noticeable signs of pooling water. The front wall and exterior panel looking and feeling very solid with no delame issues. I'm sure it was due to a bad roof that has been replaced it is dried long ago. I smell no mold but, it is Feb.. The present owner said the previous owner replaced the roof. I feel it was more like a mobile home coating put on it then a new roof. There was no ladder attached to get a good look at the roof so do not know how solid it may be . I did notice some sealant on the one back corner. The floor in the kitchen is raised in the walk area about a 1/3 inch at the highest and feels very solid and has no water stains showing in the light colored linoleum. I am not sure if that is roof related on a leaking hot water heater or pipe. I check the under sink area and floor but everything looked normal. It is winterized now so can't ck. I want another closer look of things in a second visit. It completed a 8300 mile journey last Aug. and has been sitting but started up every 2 weeks. As far as the camper part is concerned it is one step from the junk yard and I will be it's final owner, I'm sure. The 73000 mile Chevy 3500 chassis has some work needing done on the suspension but has been given an entire update with cooper tires, belts including timing belt, hoses and a new synthetic oil change and a new deep cycle marine battery. I will have the other fluids changed out plus spark plugs as needed. I believe the present owner of 1 yr. knew nothing about RV's and did not even know it had issues until I started pointing them all out. I have done much primitive camping so really don't mind if it has no working water, heat or toilet. Basics is what I'm geared for . I just want a cheap place to sleep and move about the country for a few years and have something that if it fails it's cheap enough to just walk away from without feeling ripped off. His asking price was double the NADA price and I told him to look it up to see the true value of one in fair to good condition. I know this may be a question that has many variables but, think the worst when answering. 1) If I buy this with an NADA of $6900 on the high side what should I tell him I would pay for it? Would $5000 be fair? 2) With this extensive damage would it be safe to patch with with Tyvek tape topped with Eternabond and self leveling dicor and hope the entire thing does not fly off one day while driving on a windy day in the desert? Could that happen? 3) Am I crazy?
@@RVwithTito yes it did and gave me peace of mind. With the cost of repairs and finding someone who can do the work properly and not cost so much, I have taken to getting the job done for myself. Thanks for your help and advice.
Great information and video. I have a class A with a fiberglass roof, which is delaminating in some area. My question is the epoxy you used, are they good and strong enough to use on the roof...?
Nice work and great presentation. I'm experiencing this issue with my fifth wheel and had similar plans to try a restoration. I am curious about how you addressed any dry rot in the areas affected? Thanks for all the helpful tips I've pulled off your channel.
All I did was pump alot of epoxy into the affected areas and layers hoping it would penetrate the material as much as possible. That's about all I could do.
Brian you have helped me over the years and I really apricate this tip as well, but. I know how careful you are will making sure everything is sealed up real well and I know you put a cover on your rig in the winter. How did moister or what ever get into the rig to cause this? How can I avoid the same thing on my rig. I have the same manufacture as yours just a few years newer and I want to keep mine from doing the same thing. I am 77 and don't know if I have the stamina to do it if it were to happen to me.
What you can do is be diligent about checking seals resealing as needed. In areas where lots of water runs off, you have to be extra diligent. My delimination originated in an area I didn't check often (the upper rear edge molding).
This may be the route I go on my rig. It's been about 3 years since you've done this work. Do you feel it has held up well considering the amount of effort you put into it? Well done, by the way!
Yes. The areas I've treated have held up. Some small spots I didn't treat may need to be addressed. Overall, I'm still pleased. It aint perfect if you look closely.
Hi Tito thank you for the video, I have a problem where the metal support holding my dinette to the wall of my slide has started to pull away from the outer wall. Would this epoxy that you used be strong enough to hold the metal support back on the outer wall? TIA
Awesome video and process demo!! Do you know why it delaminated in the first place? Seems like you might have to revisit this whole undertaking if there is a slow leak somewhere or some other underlying cause.
Thanks. The delamination was a result of worn seals in the corner molding. The rain gutter also dumps water right in that area. I removed the corner piece and reasealed it when I put it back.
DUDE! I have watched dozens of video's on YT as I am about to tackle some delam on my 2018 Keystone Montana. I have to say, this was by far the most impressive, detail oriented and informed video I've come across. Very well done, sir.
Wow, thanks! Glad it helped.
I just completed re-laminating one side/corner of my 5th wheel today. I used this guide and others and put my own twist on it. We'll see how it turns out. Epoxy is messy. The West system with the pumps is great! Makes it easy to mix.
How did it work out for you?
@@dominofive5075 It worked great! Everywhere that I was able to reach penetration and not have the epoxy leak into the wall is still very solidly attached.
@wtbman that is awesome! Thank you. God bless!
Great walkthrough of the repair. Nice job!
Tip 11: Turn off all propane flames.
Tip 12: If needed, wrap tape around the wand to mark a certain place, so you know when you've reached a particular depth.
Great additional tips. Funny I found myself naturally counting tape sections as I did it. Thanks!
Brian, you're a great teacher. You cover the fine points without getting repetitive and boring! Thanks for your willingness to share your experiences. Great job. bg
I really appreciate that feedback. Those decisions are difficult to make so thanks for letting me know I'm on the right track. 👍
Wow, Brian... that was a serious undertaking! Very impressive. We're definitely grateful that this is one problem we don't seem to be having, but if we should, you've made an eye-opening piece about how to address it.
Yeah. Definitely a big job. As difficult as it was I feel I learned a lot from it and feel confident taking on any structural job now.
Wow, looks great. I did something similar a few years ago on a Minnie Winnie on the dinette area. The fiberglass had delaminated from the foam sheets. It was water damage so I already had the inside wood paneling removed. This is gonna sound crazy but I actually used expanding foam. That stuff is soooo sticky! Just dont use too much! I was able to get it shot into most areas then clamped it up on the outside kinda like you did. It actually worked great and is still holding a few years later. I'm not suggesting anyone do this but it did work great for my specific application. It finds its way into the little areas you cant reach, but if you use too much you could do more harm than good.
Interesting. Maybe the low expansion foam then. 👍
@@RVwithTito I was very careful not to use too much, I've seen that stuff blow out door panels when people tried to use it as sound deadening on cars. With the corrugated fiberglass on the outside it had places to escape. It actually turned out better than I predicted. I would do it again, if you've ever had that stuff on your hands, it sticks really really well lol.
in a word, wow! that was a massive undertaking. Power to you for doing it in the first place and showing it too.
Thanks. I'm really glad I finally got it done. Once the weather starts to turn I would have been out of luck until next year.
This is my new favorite RV repair channel by the way, Tito is it? You are great!
Glad to help. Welcome to the channel! ~Brian (www.rvwithtito.com/who-is-tito)
This is serious DIY stuff. It is good to know since delamination is too costly to have a dealer repair and without taking action...your entire rig can disintegrate over time. Thankd for showing us how you acomplished this.
You're welcome! I'm pretty happy with the result. In some ways, it's stronger than before. Plus I was able to seal up the trim and other pieces even better than before.
Great video! I love your encouraging statement that delamination is not the end of the world.
Just had to write and say thank you for your video and links to all the supplies. We have a 2001 36' Itasca class A. We decided to change back bed to bunks. We knew the back wall was delaminated, but once in the wall, found the wood was dust. My husband and I worked together using your techniques and tips. Finished the last side wall tonight. It's not 100%, but it is SO much better. Thanks so much!
That is awesome! Great job. Glad the video helped you out. It's been a while, so I had to watch it again :)
I have watched many of your videos on many different topics. I echo the comments that you are a great teacher and detailed as an engineer would be. Your attention to detail and quality is amazing and encouraging. Keep up the good work! I will keep watching.
Holy cow. That was a project. And you pulled that off. Can’t imagine how much a dealer would have charged. Guess they would have pulled the whole panel off and redone. You saved yourself BIG time cash. Looks great. Great job. Thanks for sharing.
You're right. Most dealers or shops will remove and replace the enter wall or section of the wall so that they can warranty the work. Of course, this will probably cost thousands. The approach I took has no guarantees. It's up to you to do a thourough evaluation of the problem and do your best repair. If done well, it can have acceptable results for just a couple hundred bucks in materials. I still have more resin, syringes and tubing so I can certainly fix other things if they come up. Fingers crossed - hope they don't.
Very expensive repair if done by a shop. My previous 5th wheel delaminated before I had known what delamination was. Took it to a shop and 6500 dollars later it was fixed. Fast forward to my most recent toyhauler it had happened again. I did it myself and 500 dollars later it was fixed. I learned my DYI lesson but am still learning what should be rule #11.... caulk the seems on your rig religiously and I may never have to fix anything like that again. Thanks for the video you are awesome.
Just finished recaulking the entire RV yesterday 👍👍
I am pretty handy - but not in a million years! I would never have the courage to bite off such a project. I did however enjoy your sharing this experience - thank you.
It was quite the project that I care not to repeat. But now I know how :)
Tito... you are one serious DIY'er! When I saw the title to this I almost skipped it knowing that it was above my DIY tolerance level, but after watching I could actually see myself doing this if needed. - Thanks for the great video!
Yeah. It's a lot of work but worth it. Even starting with a small spot will let you know whether it's something you want or can do. I will tell you though. I'm pretty confident now that I could fix any delamination or structural issue on my RV.
Yeah man! Your DIY instincts and overall skill-set are impressive. If I may ask, what is/was your career? You're quite multi-talented. - Thanks again for another great video!
Thanks. I was a software engineer and before that an electronics tech in the Navy. I'm mostly just curious and like to figure things out. Most of the DIY I picked up just working on my own house for the last 25 years.
Pretty big project but well done. Number 10 is probably the most important tip. When working under time restraints you want to know exactly how to move forward. Awesome job that certainly deserves a pat on the back.
Thanks! Patting now 😊
Maaaan very helpful and very well explained especially with your 10 tips that's usually something everybody has to go through themselves to understand just to find that they do not have the patience to finish
Glad it helped. It was a big project to take one and I learned a lot doing it.
Thank you so much, so many videos are just the best thing is to prevent it, now where that is common sense, there is hardly any who tell how to do it. I bought a used RV that they hid a lot of issues, and I was a newbie to RV's. Luckily we were able to fix any leaks and repairs, there is a bit of deamination that occurred. Thank you so very much.
Glad it was helpful. The repair is still holding up.
I think you did a 100% job my friend. My fifth wheel is a 2011, no serious delamination but caulking everything to help keep away delamination
Keep that up. It'll pay off. 👍
I have never had delam, Tito. Now have an airstream and won't face that, but will have other challenges, I am sure. But, as usual, you did an excellent job and where many may think it can't be done, you proved it could.
Thanks! Enjoy that Airstream.
Very well done. I've been in the fiberglass industry for over 30 years and the video gave me a little incite on a better way to inject the resin.
Great to hear. Especially coming from a pro. Thanks!
I’m inspired to repair some delamination on our Class C. I’ve used West System on a boat and learned household vinegar a good solvent. Safer way to clean up and smells nice. Thank you
Sounds great! Appreciate the vinegar tip.
I just got an older rv that I'm sure I will find issues as I start replacing the roof and renovating the interior. Good idea.
It never dawned on me to just use fiberglass resin to do my repairs, glad I found you.
Good luck!
انا من المملكة العربية السعودية ومتابع جيد .. اونت فعلا رائع بكل ما تقدمة لنا من ابتكرات تفيدنا بذات في الطاقة الشمسية .. وشكرا جزيلا لك
مرحبا بك. أنا سعيد لأن المعلومات مفيدة.
It working!! I was also told that delamination was the end of the world and way too expensive to have professionally done. I wish I could add a pick of my set up! I’m doing a foot in the morning then a foot in the evening with the fast hardening and it’s working beautifully. Then I’m going to tape the edges with roofers flashing tape then replace trim!
I can see you put a lot of thought into this before starting and it looks like it paid off. Thanks for sharing what you did.
Yes. I've been thinking about it for some time. You're welcome. I hope it helps.
@@RVwithTito I really really need some advice on a 2004 palomino thoroughbred 21ft camper, I have a bad wall issue and can't find anyone to give me advice on it. I have pictures I could email or however you would prefer, I could also take a video, I just really need advice so I can decide to fix or send it to the crusher
One tip or suggestion to save time: park it next to a wall and jack plywood boards against it. Great stuff, very thorough on the injector technique. Thank you for sharing.
Yes. Good tip. If I had a wall available I would have done that.
You are AMAZING❣️ Wish I had someone creative and hard working like you to hire!!! This is BEAUTIFUL!!! I’m SO happy for you!!!
Thanks Brian, I will be doing this as soon as it warms up. One good thing , the Expoy you used is manufacture in my old hone town.
This is kind of a reminder that we all need to keep up with the sealant on EVERY seam on our rigs. Recently on a trip we noticed some water coming in and thought it was coming from our open window, so we shut it. Water was still coming in. What I found was the caulk/sealant for the front cap had developed gaps and separated, allowing the water in. I was able to stop the leaks with some eternabond tape, and now I will be going over the entire rig.
Agreed. I'm doing the same thing.
Wow...awesome diy to repair on this level of expertise! It wouldn't surprise me if you get some feedback from those in the rv body repair industry. Very impressive!
Thanks Brian once again you have given me confidence to do this myself.
Hope I don't have to do it again, but I hope my experience helps you out.
Thanks Tito used your method to fix mine. Worked great. Water drain hose on the back side of my refrigerator oxidized and broke, water soked into the exterior freg compartment causing delamination. Make sure to check that drip hose on your freg.
That's great. I'm glad these tips helped you get it done. Good tip on the fridge drain.
Great job. It looks like it came out great. I just purchased a camper that needs some repairs and this video really helped me understand what I have to do.
God bless you sir for sharing and helping people
Thanks for posting this series! I may have a chance to pick up a slide in truck camper and by the photos, I may have to do some of this or replace a few pieces so this will be very helpful. Steve
Hey Steve. Good luck with the camper. Hope it works for you 👍
@@RVwithTito Thanks but this freebie got away or it could have been another facebook scammer. Lol! I'll keep looking!
Bummer
Man, that's one hell of a repair to take on. You never cease to amaze. Well done!
Hey Thanks! I think I amazed myself with this one :)
You are fearless! Great job on this difficult repair!
Well there was a little fear until my plan started coming together :)
Thanks Tito. I have a small delam I am going to try to tackle now!
Good luck!
Great information and timing. I started my delam repair yesterday on a hybrid bunk end. Different process, as I have removed the entire panel. I'm hoping for similar results. I am making a video, but my editing isn't as techy as yours. I will post in a day or so.
Thanks for sharing your skills and the links to supplies.
Great! Looking forward to checking out the video when you're done.
Part 1. ua-cam.com/video/82cx9cmZ1n0/v-deo.html
I work on RV's now every day,.. and you did a great job.. Prepping is the key.. getting it all set up before any glueing..
Great to have your stamp of approval :) Yes, I agree that lots of planning is the key since you'll usually get just one try to get it right.
I always enjoy how detailed you are with all of your projects and repairs. We are completely repairing a 2020 Coachmen Mirada that did not receive much love in it's prior life so all of your tips are very helpful. Thank you
very clever you are with wedges and boards and epoxy. West Marine has good chemicals. I used panel glue and tried to do too big of an area at once. It left some bubbles.
Yeah. It's a tricky process and you only get one shot...as you know.
Save yourself a wee bit of time and get some "epoxy mixing nozzles" and application gun. But you repair looks great and you took the time to do it right.
Thanks!
Fantastic!!! Thanks for the great explanation, details and 10 tips. Very useful - thank you.
You're very welcome!
I have some delamination above rear wheel wells. But most is the compartment doors. May try to fix some next spring. Geat video.
Thanks for your great video Tito. Your way of explaining keeps the viewer interested all the way through. Any suggestions from you or someone you know on how to repair the bottom skirting of an RV where water ingress has basically rotten the plywood that is sandwiched between the outer and the inner layer? This part of the wall is below the living space of the RV. It basically is for aesthetic and to keep mud and rocks from flying out. Thanks.
I'm not familiar with that area. But if the outside layer is in tact then I'd probably repair it from the back.
Thank you so much for the videos on delamination. I am thinking of getting a used motorhome but there is delamination so researching if it possible to fix. Expat living in England 👍
Yes. It's possible depending on how much there is and how much reconstruction you want to do. Good luck!
Great write up for fixing delamination
Thank you
You are welcome!
I just ordered one of your kits through Amazon. I am about to get started on basically the same delamination job as you. Thanks for the great informative video. I really enjoy your content. Keep the great vids coming :)
Tito thanks for this video...we bought a used truck camper this year that we love but the outside is delaminating just like you showed and I was wondering how we could repair it without spending a fortune. This is definitely something we could figure out with your info and I thank you for that.
Great. Best of luck with the project. Glad it helped.
Thanks for the video. We are having the same problem. We think we’re going to fix it with a new RV.
Yeah. That's one way to fix it :)
One thing that came to mind, when you were doing the clamping system: Will it have been possible to use Neodymium Magnets perhaps? Maybe a few sets that are about 100 lbs in strength? This way you can place one magnet or piece of steel on the inside wall of the RV and another magnet on the outside wall (while protecting the walls of course).
Not sure. Interesing idea. It would.have to be a pretty big set of magnets to bond through the wall.
I used sealing foam it worked great plus it it cancels road noise alot better
Thanks for the video. I used your tips for my own repair. West system products are amazing. I was prepared in some areas from your video but not in others, since experience is the greatest teacher after all. I wasn't totally prepared for the low viscosity of the mixed epoxy. The manufacturer recommended a test mix. A good idea. I found some rigid tubing and used west marine fillable caulk tubes. Plan was to pump the remaining epoxy out with air. Not necessary it just flowed out with gravity alone, with little slope. Withdrawing the tube slowly with steady pressure worked best. Perhaps a helper could be pushing on the laminate to better distribute the epoxy. Several tests glues with plywood scrap let me know everything worked. A day or so of drying behind the laminate with a shop vac was also done. Pretty happy with the results but may need to touch up some areas. With all I have learned here and on my own should go smooth. Thanks!
Awesome video and thanks for sharing your time, knowledge and tips. 👍👍
Good video Brian, One thing you did not comment on is how and where the delamination started in the first place. Was it a roof leak, seam, clearance lights, vents?
It was along the corner seam that I removed. Just so happens that was where the rain gutter dumped all the run off. Made some mods so now it's much better and sealed up much more now
Hey your video is the best I've seen so far. Question, why don't I see people using "Git Rot" for this? It comes from the marine world and is designed exactly for this purpose. I believe it would penetrate better and result in a stronger more solid repair. I used it on the cabin of an old boat I had with a thin layer of fiberglass over plywood. The big downside is that it is very pricey.
Thanks. Didn't know about it....plus the downside you mentioned. Hopefully I won't have to do it again, but if I do...
Well done, good pace, clear and concise.
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Greaat content because I am facing this issue! A thought I have to simplify the process is ..Why not drill through the RV's delamination "bubble". Depending on the bubble size, a few holes may be necessary. Then inject the mixed epoxy into the hole (thinned with acetone), then clamp. Epoxy may come out of some holes, showing how effective the epoxy has spread with clamping. Later, after epoxy cures, cover the hole(s) and paint. Please give me your opinion.
Thanks for all the great videos. I did this repair a couple weeks ago and had trouble with the mixture being too watery and just running down instead of spreading out. I ended up using a caulking gun, 3/4 pvc tubing, from a sprinkler system, stuck on the end of a tube of heavy duty construction adhesive. It ended up being a lot easier than dealing with the mixing of resin.
Wow...there are some really high quality construction adhesive out there. Did you make more "injection passes" to get good adhesive coverage?
Cool. Glad you got it figured out. There are definitely several approaches to this if you don't want to replace the entire wall.
G Henrickson
I had to move the tube around a lot just like in the video and I didn’t get it clammed as well as Brian but it spreads out and stays in place. The resin drips all the way to the ground if you’re not careful.
Did you make a conscious effort to glue between all the separated laminations? Just wondering if say there were 5 plys separated and glue only got between 2 of them, what would hold the others?
Yes where necessary and possible to gain access. It only applied to a couple of areas though. Delam was mostly in the outer layer. Some areas I simply pumped a bunch of resin in there hoping it would soak through as much as possible.
I am currently looking for ideas on how to re adhere the graffiato on the exterior of my house. It's a huge undertaking using about 100 liters of adhesive. Some useful tips there in your video.
I am super impressed! I do have a couple of questions: If water got back there to create the delamination, it seems it would have rotted the plywood exterior wall. Did you replace any of that plywood? Also, what is your source for the syringes? Thanks!
I have the same question. In one image I could see what appeared to be separated layers of luan backerboard. I would think that separated luan backerboard would need to come out and replaced with new backerboard? What about opening the wall to check for mold or mildew? Perhaps I missed something.
Great job. You give confidence that this can actually be fixed by a DIYer. Did you have any swelling of the underlayment? Mine (2006 Jayco) seems to be swelling as if affected by water from the bottom of the rv wall. Thanks and keep up the great work!
Thanks Jim. Yes, there was some swelling in places but I made sure it was completely dried out before saturating it with resin.
Great video! I wish you had shown more of the rigging. What did you attach the straps to on the other side? Where did you put clamps where there were no openings? Did you squirt the resin between several plywood layers like an onion? I know you mentioned to look for that but was the damage separating the layers?
I ran the straps down to the other side and back under to the frame of the chassis. I suggest pitting a towel or something under the strap on the corners to protect the paint job. I started by wrapping the straps aroind the ladder but it put too much strain on it and i had to do some repair on the ladder mount. I wish I had a tree or anything else nearby but I didnt.
This was very helpful. Thanks for posting. You are a true RV'er. Willing to share knowledge to help everyone.
Could you supplement this video with another that is specific to your clamping system? I'd like to see how you anchored the top and bottom of your vertical 2x4s.
I ran a ratchet strap across the roof and down the other side for the top and another under the RV for the bottom of the 2x4s. The rest of the tightening was with the wedges.
@@RVwithTito Thank you! That helps a lot. I'm going to use your technique for a small sidewall delamination repair on my 5th wheel this summer.
@@jamesclark7248 Great. Best to put a towel or some padding under the straps to protect the trim on the edges. Also, don't anchor them to the ladder. I did that the first time and it pulled up some of the ladder screws and roof membrane that I had to repair. Good luck!
Was there any drilling needed to get the syringe and probe inserted so far into the RV wall? Great video btw!
No. Just poking in as far as possible.
Sold my laminated siding camper before that happened. Bought an aluminum sided one with good paint over it. Doubt I'll have a laminated sided camper again.
Gosh Tito, you are so very talented and handy, what I wouldn't do to have you as a life saver helper for my older fleetwood southwind which I am currently living in, that someone befor I owned it hit a tree limb on the driver's side edge where the wall meets the roof from the front corner about 10 feet down the rv. The whole side is coming off and I am not sure if it is repairable the way you are doing it. I was thinking of totally removing the two piece siding. It is split down the center with a lower and upper piece of siding the length of the motor home. I'm not sure how wise this would be or how hard it will be to get the siding back on afterwards. I'm thi king about just peeling it back and then trying to smear or inject resin to it then trying to clamp it somehow, but I'm hearing what your saying about doing small sections so as to not bite off more than I can chew all at once. I'm really up in arms about the whole thing, I'm on a pretty tight budget too and can kind of see this project escalating into an unforeseen abundance of expenses and labor. I can see it would definetly be best to have some extra helpers... one thing is certain, it keeps getting worse and really starts getting worse fast. I could drive it down the road last year, now I'm afraid the whole side would blow off going down the road if the wind gets under the cracks that are opening up. I wonder how hard it would be to remove the siding completely and replace the plywood underneath that is blowing up and causing the delamination?
If you or anyone else has ever attempted this, could someone let me know? Thanks
I've seen places replace the entire side wall. I'm sure it'll cost you, but I wouldn't do it myself unless I could park the RV in a giant garage for a while. It's a really big job.
WOW!! That is a Fantastic Repair!! I wonder if that is how the repair boats. But it is a Great idea you had there!
Same epoxy but I think it depends on the type of repair. Fiberglass usually needs some kind of filler material...but I don't know much about that.
You did an AWESOME Repair.. GREAT VIDEO Thanks for sharing..
Glad you liked it. Thanks!
Great video. Is it possible to probe vertically or is doing it horizontally the only way to make it work?
Oh sure. I came down vertically from the roof and from the bottom compartment. Basucally inject wherever you can.
Why did you not turn the long clamping 2x4 on edge? they would be much more rigid for clamping that way
True. I tried that a couple times, but it was difficult to keep still and on its side.
You may have already answered this in one of the other questions, but what is the best way to remove and re-install the trim pieces? ie, the corner trim, water inlet trim, etc? Do you just use some flat plastic pry tool? And, did you use the same resin to re-install those, or possibly silicone caulk?
Yes. After removing the screws, use a pry tool to slowly lift it off. There should be Butyl tape underneath that needs to be scraped off. I put new Butyl tape on when reinstalling it, the followed up with silicon caulk all around for extra protection.
@@RVwithTito I understand silicone caulk should not be used as anything released over the silicone will not stick. I have read to use only RV caulks like a Dicor brand. GREAT video btw!! Thank you so much, I am going to subscribe.
Good Morning. Good hearing from you. I hope I never need to do that kind of repair. Jack
Yup. It was a challenge but I'm glad it all came out well.
Interesting to see someone glue the delaminated luan together rather than just rip it out and replace it. Totally cool actually. How bad the water damage is might be an issue, but I like the idea. I don't know why they don't use or manufacture the right kind of luan/plywood with exterior grade glue in the first place, so doing it after the fact at least makes sense. Epoxy works and I love your innovative clamping routine. My father and older brothers did some wooden boat building when I was a kid and they used some dark brown water proof marine grade glue to glue things that was a lot thinner than epoxy and I am thinking that would work, too. Even Titebond II or III would probably work. The one thing that is unclear to me is which layers you got the epoxy between: the wood layers of plywood or just between the fiberglass layer and the luan/plywood layer. Epoxy is obviously better to glue down the top external fiberglass layer to the wood. How many layers do you glue? Your luan was probably still in pretty good shape? Water leaks are the death knell to any RV and something you need to keep on top of all the time.
Thank you! !!!! Your RV is far nicer than mine. I have similar fiberglass "siding" what are your thoughts on "hole sawing" or drilling and epoxy-ing? In my case it doesn't have to be pretty, but water tight and functional.
Honest question here. Would it have been easier to learn how to re laminate the existing laminate all together? I watch some videos at seems like it would have been easier
Probably. A much larger scale project though. I would need a large covered shed, more equipment and helpers.
Nice job, do you know if the resin can melt the styrofoam insulation ?
I can't say. I know some adhesives do melt it.
Wow! Now THIS was a helpful video! Heck of a great job! I saved this video for future reference!
Thanks! Good idea. There isn't a ton of info out there about this which is why I decided to publish this.
I am looking at a 19 yr old 22 ft very hard to find in our area Class C that has many delamed issues on all 4 sides ( many very small but obvious). I really want to buy within state and even better local. The one side wall window and bottom of the overhead bunk is the worst feels firm but has noticeable signs of pooling water. The front wall and exterior panel looking and feeling very solid with no delame issues. I'm sure it was due to a bad roof that has been replaced it is dried long ago. I smell no mold but, it is Feb..
The present owner said the previous owner replaced the roof. I feel it was more like a mobile home coating put on it then a new roof. There was no ladder attached to get a good look at the roof so do not know how solid it may be . I did notice some sealant on the one back corner.
The floor in the kitchen is raised in the walk area about a 1/3 inch at the highest and feels very solid and has no water stains showing in the light colored linoleum. I am not sure if that is roof related on a leaking hot water heater or pipe. I check the under sink area and floor but everything looked normal. It is winterized now so can't ck. I want another closer look of things in a second visit.
It completed a 8300 mile journey last Aug. and has been sitting but started up every 2 weeks. As far as the camper part is concerned it is one step from the junk yard and I will be it's final owner, I'm sure. The 73000 mile Chevy 3500 chassis has some work needing done on the suspension but has been given an entire update with cooper tires, belts including timing belt, hoses and a new synthetic oil change and a new deep cycle marine battery. I will have the other fluids changed out plus spark plugs as needed. I believe the present owner of 1 yr. knew nothing about RV's and did not even know it had issues until I started pointing them all out.
I have done much primitive camping so really don't mind if it has no working water, heat or toilet. Basics is what I'm geared for . I just want a cheap place to sleep and move about the country for a few years and have something that if it fails it's cheap enough to just walk away from without feeling ripped off. His asking price was double the NADA price and I told him to look it up to see the true value of one in fair to good condition. I know this may be a question that has many variables but, think the worst when answering.
1) If I buy this with an NADA of $6900 on the high side what should I tell him I would pay for it? Would $5000 be fair?
2) With this extensive damage would it be safe to patch with with Tyvek tape topped with Eternabond and self leveling dicor and hope the entire thing does not fly off one day while driving on a windy day in the desert? Could that happen?
3) Am I crazy?
Very thorough and helpful. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for for all the good info.
Just did this to my class C.. same exact color scheme as yours too.
Cool. I hope it turned out well for you.
@@RVwithTito yes it did and gave me peace of mind. With the cost of repairs and finding someone who can do the work properly and not cost so much, I have taken to getting the job done for myself. Thanks for your help and advice.
You're welcome. That was my reasoning as well.
Great information and video. I have a class A with a fiberglass roof, which is delaminating in some area. My question is the epoxy you used, are they good and strong enough to use on the roof...?
Seriously impressive work and a huge undertaking. Good job Brian!!
Hey thanks! Yes it was quite the project. Glad I finally got it done.
I have followed you for a very long time. This is your greatest work yet. Get job.
Wow. Thanks! Glad to have you following for so long.
Excellent practical tips.
Glad it was helpful!
THANKS!! How many Resin containers did you use for the area you had to repair?
Gosh. I don't know. Lots. I only mixed 6oz at a time though.
Nice work and great presentation. I'm experiencing this issue with my fifth wheel and had similar plans to try a restoration. I am curious about how you addressed any dry rot in the areas affected? Thanks for all the helpful tips I've pulled off your channel.
All I did was pump alot of epoxy into the affected areas and layers hoping it would penetrate the material as much as possible. That's about all I could do.
RVwithTito thats what figure. Looks like it achieved the desired result. Guess there's nothing left to do but get it done. Thank you again.
Tito - thanks so much for your video.
You're welcome.
Brian you have helped me over the years and I really apricate this tip as well, but. I know how careful you are will making sure everything is sealed up real well and I know you put a cover on your rig in the winter. How did moister or what ever get into the rig to cause this? How can I avoid the same thing on my rig. I have the same manufacture as yours just a few years newer and I want to keep mine from doing the same thing. I am 77 and don't know if I have the stamina to do it if it were to happen to me.
What you can do is be diligent about checking seals resealing as needed. In areas where lots of water runs off, you have to be extra diligent. My delimination originated in an area I didn't check often (the upper rear edge molding).
This may be the route I go on my rig. It's been about 3 years since you've done this work. Do you feel it has held up well considering the amount of effort you put into it? Well done, by the way!
Yes. The areas I've treated have held up. Some small spots I didn't treat may need to be addressed. Overall, I'm still pleased. It aint perfect if you look closely.
Hi Tito thank you for the video, I have a problem where the metal support holding my dinette to the wall of my slide has started to pull away from the outer wall. Would this epoxy that you used be strong enough to hold the metal support back on the outer wall? TIA
I wouldn't rely on it without some kind of anchor
Awesome video and process demo!! Do you know why it delaminated in the first place? Seems like you might have to revisit this whole undertaking if there is a slow leak somewhere or some other underlying cause.
Thanks. The delamination was a result of worn seals in the corner molding. The rain gutter also dumps water right in that area. I removed the corner piece and reasealed it when I put it back.