Lol we're the biased folks:) I don't know why when someone talks about technical stuff in English with accent like Scottish, Swedish or German or somewhere on that region- it sounds more serious & believable:) Oh the French as well:)
I don't know if it was mentioned, but if you have active pickups another benefit of having a locking killswitch is that it allows you to leave your guitar "plugged in" without draining the battery. Finished playing? Just flip the kill switch to "off" position, put your guitar into the stand/hang on a hook and your battery will not be drained if you forget to unplug the guitar cable.
Great video. Thanks! A good idea for drilling with the Forstner bit though, is to drill a small pilot hole where you want the switch (1/16" or so) and then drill from both sides. Much less chance of blowing out the finish.
Even better than that is to use a reamer to get the hole to size. They're made specifically for this type of work and they keep the finish from chipping like what happens when you use a drill bit. Why? Drill bits drill from behind. Reamers cut away the material from the diameter of the hole. Watch Dan Erlewine from StewMac install tuners. When he has to enlarge the holes, he uses a reamer for that specific reason. It keeps the finish from chipping and flaking because it cuts away material from the diameter of the hole instead of removing material from behind and breaking through the surface, which is what, causes the finish to chip and crack. Use the right tool for the job and it makes it much easier to prevent fuck ups.
Richard Not true... his practice/studio guitars may do this, but on his signature live axes (Arm the Homeless, Soul Power, etc.) he has a toggle kill switch installed. It's actually a bit more difficult to use compared to the push button switch in this video, if you ask me.
I believe not for the Arm the Homeless guitar as it has 2 volume knobs, he has said so in interviews. With the Soul Power I don't know since I've seen the neck pickup being used whilst toggle killswitching.
MessyBugatti Stand corrected on Arm The Homeless, but Soul Power is a true kill switch toggle--it has one volume, two tones and a Strat style 5-way switch, so it's not possible.
I know I'm late to party, but excellent description and clearly presented. Have you ever seen a push/push killswitch/tone pot? I was wanting to install one on a les paul. That way it would be easy to operate and stealthy.
To avoid chipping and splintering >>> The CENTRE 'spiral part' of that wood drill bit is called the WORM..., you must drill carefully and STOP as soon as the worm initially protrudes from the other side - then turn the guitar over and drill from that other side using the WORM HOLE as the centre point for you drill.
Just wanted to point out, there is a use for the latching type switches as kill switches on a guitar, for example, cutting out the need for a pedel to shut your guitar up inbetween songs or during choppy rythem sections where the breaks need to be exact. While you can use the volume control for these, indeed that's what it's there for, the switch is another alternate and with my style of picking (super heavy handed, a habit i really need to kick) a quick flick of my pinky to hit a mini toggle switch is a much faster and sutle movment then grabing for my volume control. Plus using a switch like this means you can keep your volume control set where it is through out the set so the "not being able to find the right spot again" problem of guitarests like me who max out the volume all the time(shout at me all you want) isn't a factor. Just my two cents, you're videos are always interesting to watch. In a topic un-related to this video, since I've never seen you put a link or a video up about your build info and such I'm going to ask these two questions for a friend of mine. 1. Do you ship overseas? 2. do you make extended range instruments? He's really into his 7's and 8's.
Could you pre-drill a small center hole from the back to the front, then drill the proper size front to back to avoid blowing out from the front entirely?
exactly how i'd approach the job. small centre hole 1st from the back. and then bang some masking tape on the front and drill the larger hole. no blow-out.
Better than that is to drill a small hole then use a reamer to get it to size. That will prevent the finish from chipping without using tape. Watch Dan Erlewine install tuners into a head that needs bigger holes. That's exactly how it's done and exactly why. He uses a reamer to prevent chipping the finish.
the greatest switches for the job are industrial limiter switches, with a panel mount plunger. they're super rugged, look nice, quite like the switch on a pedal, and have the snappiest action you can imagine. only ~0.5mm activation travel, untill you get a very tactile CLICK. if i was to build a ray gun or so, that's what i'd use for the trigger. :D PS: use on/on switches. they are easier to find than "normal open" momentary switches, and with an additional toggle switch, you can invert the action as a kill switch. (i'm building cigar box guitars)
Your switch will cancel the signal with the ground or just "cut" the signal going to the channel? I've heard that it's better to ground it rather than just interrupting the signal because that would cause problems with hum and noise when you push the switch.
I had a look and it appears that the wiring diagram isn't available anymore. I had a look but couldn't find it. It would be really useful if I could look at that diagram. Is it possible to find that again?
at 1:10 and 1:18, those sounds... I heard flanger, or what sounds like it, but how did you make those sounds, other than having the switch? what equipment/settings and technique did you use? pardon me, I am a beginner, only 1 month experience.
Earthqauker devices has a good article online explaining why to use a normally open and how to wire it properly. I use to think like you about the NC switches , I was wrong and this explained why
I know this probably won't be answered, but are you able to wire it so that you have Active Pickups and the LED share the same battery, and have the light shine only when the guitar is plugged in?
Hey Colin, I've got a question about kill switches. When my guitar is selected to the bridge pickup and the volume knob is all the way at ten, it will kill the signal. When I put just a hair back, the signal comes back perfectly fine. Is it supposed to act as a kill switch or is it just a problem with my pot?
cant go fast or clean enough to replicate buckethead. also youre damaging your toggle switch if you try to go anywhere near as fast as that, see: Jordan by Buckethead
I'd rather just ruin some toggle switches, and/or remove a tone for a 2nd volume, then drill a hole in my guitar for a kill switch. Or just add a momentary switch to a boost pedal...
You're going to break your switch. Then the momentum will make you dig the jagged edge into the body of the guitar, and scratch your $3,000 Les Paul... I've seen it happen at a show :D He was very mad... Not worth it
i wonder if there is a killswitch push/pull poti somewhere....that would be awesome oh and for those of you who dont want to drill a hole in their guitar: "shadow kill pot" is a potentiometer you set as your volume pot, when you press it down it kills the sound. no new hole needed.
Incase you didn't understand Collin's explanation, as I didn't the first few times. *Locking switches:* Once activated it will allow the signal to go through. (light switches, flashlights, vibrators, On/Off switches on amplifiers, etc) *Momentary switches:* Will spring back to their original position once you stop applying pressure. (TV remotes, volume/power buttons on phones, some vibrators, Buckethead's killswitch, etc.) *Normally Open:* Do _not_ make signal when left unattended, but once pressure is applied, the signal is then able to go through. (not really a killswitch) *Normally Closed:* _Does_ allow the signal to go through until pressure is present, the signal will cut off once doing so. When letting go, it will spring back and allow the signal to go through once again. *_Normally Open/Closed_* are both momentary switches, but can be applied as locking switches.
hey Colin, I never really wore a beanie until I saw that sometimes you wear one, I've got really long hair too and when I wear a cap, I use it to keep my hair out of my face but the brim gets in the way. if I'm playing in front of an audience it just looks weird and honestly i've never thought of wearing one so thanks man and good luck for the future.
Buckethead uses a Sanwa game switch (normally open) they are cheap and easy to put in. Wire it between the Volume and ground then just push to use. Advantages of a Sanwa, easy to push, will work for a billion cycles, and it's cheap.
Good video as always. I just don't see myself using one. When I bought my used LTD EC1000, i found the guy who had it before took out the tone pot for the killswitch... a tone knob is much more useful for me. it did give me motivation to put a dual concentric pot so I could adjust the two pickup tones independently, though, so it's all good...
I recently install a killswitch on my guitar, but did it with a "stick" switch, worst idea ever, because you have to get rid of your pick to be able to take the button between the thumb and the forefinger. That's a bit stupid, but weirdly you can't really figure that out before actually trying it. Well, was looking for a cool new killswitch to install, and I'm definitely going to order on ironageaccessoiries. Thank you mate !
There's a way to use a killswitch as a normal toggle? I like the low profile and I tend to hit my 3 way toggle out of position when playing fast. I was thinking having a low profile toggle like a killswitch should work🙏🏻
Thanks for the wiring diagram and explanation. I'm planning on installing a killswitch on my yamaha when I upgrade the pickups. I'm not sure if I have a normally open or normally closed switch yet, but at least now I know how to wire it regardless.
Please help, I installed my kill switch but it clicks when I press it. It's an arcade button. How do I remove the click sound throu the amp. When strings are not being rung the switch is silent but when a string sounds the botton will click through the amp. There's a video on you tube of a dude with the same switch and his makes the same sound. Your switch just cut off the sound with no click. What have I done wrong?
+Mega MountainMan Get an ON-ON (6 pole) mini toggle switch, and check out the "how to wire a killswitch" diagram from the seymour duncan website. I got a really cheap (shitty) one for about $3 on ebay, or you can get much better quality ones from dimarzio, etc for around $20-30.
So how is it that adding the kill switch, doesn't open-circuit the input of your amp? Those of us with valve amps make sure that there is always an input load connected (like a guitar), so I was half expecting one of the resistors included to be in series with the switch when it is pressed. Eg, when the switch isn't pressed, the pickups are across the input of the amp, and the the switch is pressed, the resistor is across instead. It seems in this installation, pressing the switch, simply breaks the circuit, just like there was no guitar plugged in... am I missing something here?
+MightyFloyd the part you are missing is that there is no issue with not having signal reach the front of your amp. You seem to very confused about how this all works.
Will these switches fit in a standard volume/tone hole? I am buying a Reverend Sensei and want to remove the tone control and move the volume down to where the tone control was leaving a hole where the volume used to be and a perfect place for a kill switch
I have a Schecter SLS C-7 P with an SH-6 Distortion in the bridge position and an SH-2 Jazz in the neck position, and no battery cavity. How would I install this switch?
Do you have the switch in series with the signal to the output jack? This is why it is popping. You need the switch to be in parallel, short-circuiting the signal to ground. NOT breaking the signal - this creates voltage spikes, which make popping noises. And yes, CSguitars explained this backwards and got it completely wrong. Although the wiring diagram on the link is correct.
Hey bro been trying to figure out all night what mm to go with on my Jazzmaster build ,yes a JM with a kill switch should be fun . You may of mentioned in video the mm of the one installed? Nice job on recess the button. Thanks JB
Watched all the videos I could find, read the info on the website, and still a tad uncertain what the best way is to wire up my Iron Age (non-led) kill switch to my Carvin DC-127 (active, two humbuckers, non-stereo jack). Would connect to ground & hot on jack work? Any help would be appreciated!
Got a question here. Your guitar (luckily) has a cavity for a 9 volt battery which supplies your LED in your killswitch. My Ibanez for example doesn't, because it came with stock passive pickups. Is there anyway to get a voltage from the electrical components within your guitar, or will I just have to make a cavity for a 9V? My guitar is already packed with wires and other components, so I can't put another battery in there. Greetings from Belgium, by the way. Keep making the scientific videos.
Are there any killswitches that I can have set up as toggle and momentary? I would like to be able to do a toggle for certain situations where I am not playing, and a momentary for various effects.
Switches which are locking in one direction and momentary in another are quite common. You'd be looking for a switch with the denotation "on-off-(on)", the brackets indicate momentary. These are usually either toggle or rocker switches. You'd wire them similar to here, have the signal connect to the center pin and leave it again to go to the output jack. This allows your guitar to sound even though the switch is 'open' The other two contacts would then connect to ground, so whichever direction you threw the switch, the signal gets connected to ground, silencing the guitar.
Can you show us how to install the toggle type killswitch. I really wanna try Tom Morello's style, but i only have a strat. Will be really cool if you could help me out.
you can negate chips if you take another block of wood and clip it to your guitar so that the drill exits your guitar and goes right into your block of wood.
ok i need help :D i have pruchased one of these, black chrome with a white LED, but i dont want the led, but problem is, mine didnt come with a diagramme, and im not sure what wire does what, there are 2 black wires, and 2 white wires, no lables or marking whatsoever... any ideas dude?
You'd be best contacting Iron Age and asking. If you want to work it out for yourself then I'd suggest grabbing a AA or AAA battery (not the 9v as it will blow the LED) and touching each end of the battery with each wire in turn and seeing which two light the LED. Once you find out which ones do, you'll know the other two are the ones to use in the audio circuit. I hope this helps
Thats a great idea, maybe AAA just incase of any damage, this couldnt damage the killswith part of the unit though? I have mailed them from their website also, im just awaiting a reply :) thaks for the help
Both AA and AAA run at 1.5v, the only difference is their size. The kill switch will be rated to probably a couple hundred volts, so batteries will do nothing to it.
My only concern about this Led Killswitch is the battery life, i want to put it in my two guitars which have Seymour Duncan Blackouts, if the killswitch drains fast the battery, i will put a regular killswitch on them
Hi Colin love the your UA-cam channel mate where can you buy those chicken and dragon picks went to my local music shop they thought i was sniffing glue by the look i got tried a few sites wasn't able to find the i have used gorilla snot drys to quick
Hey Collin!!! I have active pickups in my Ibanez RGIR20FE and it has a Killswitch already in there. I want to replace its Killswitch with this one... Would the process that you did be the same? Also the LED... Could I hook that up to my already 9V for my actives or is that a bad idea?
+Goofy GooberInc Yes, the process would be the same. You'd probably still have to drill out the hole wider to accommodate the size of these LED switches. You certainly can link up the LED to the 9V that is already powering the active pickups, it shouldn't case any problems. In theory the LED will reduce the lifetime of the battery, but it will be so negligible in practice it's not worth worrying about.
drilling a hole tip; dirll a pilote hole of eg 5mm with a sharp metal drill starting from the lacker side take the drill for last measure you would like and start drilling from the lacker side 5 to 6 mm deep turn the guitar over and finish of the hole (dont go through but stop in the middle and retract) done
Could you have another locking switch that in one position functions normally but in the other activates a normally closed killswitch so you can easily do silly stuff like Buckethead?
just ordered a killswitch from iron age and was wondering a couple things about killswitches if someone could fill me in. is there going to be any noticeable "popping" sound coming from my amp every time i engage the switch, and is repeatedly cutting my signal in any way harmful to my amp or guitar?
+Sprong4 Shouldn't be any popping. The only reason that happens when plugging/unplugging an instrument cable is because of metal to metal contact of the plug and input assembly. And all your're doing is stopping the electrical current from finishing the circuit, so no harmful things happen to your guitar or amp.
but does the killswitch, engage?
it does...
... in due time
For choosing such a name, they would say that " this is *my curse* "
ptking006 if it does it will catch on fire and they will say "this fire burns"
Get out... both of you...
as long "As Daylight Dies"
I think the Scottish accent accounts for at least 40% of the reason I watch your channel. It's just so pleasant to listen to.
+Skunky Vibes yeah that's what pushed me to subscribe. you can find the info other places, but the accent and the guys personality sold me.
Lol we're the biased folks:) I don't know why when someone talks about technical stuff in English with accent like Scottish, Swedish or German or somewhere on that region- it sounds more serious & believable:) Oh the French as well:)
It's purely sublime.
French don't know shit about music. I know ... I'm french. :-)
I only watch english reviews.
Chuck Norris what about Erik Satie
Buckethead. That's all.
Yep
Buckethead is the reason why i motivate my self to play electric guitar and of course with killswitch
Same here
Ugh... poser conformist.
Drachen panzer for liking a guitarist? Jesus Christ 😒 no one's allowed to like anything anymore
I don't know if it was mentioned, but if you have active pickups another benefit of having a locking killswitch is that it allows you to leave your guitar "plugged in" without draining the battery.
Finished playing? Just flip the kill switch to "off" position, put your guitar into the stand/hang on a hook and your battery will not be drained if you forget to unplug the guitar cable.
I recently got an Epiphone Les Paul and every time I open the case I have to sit down for a second it's so beautiful.
man, im the same.
i got one too it's so sexy
i also got an ibanez RG and an ESP H-1001. I am very lucky
Great video. Thanks! A good idea for drilling with the Forstner bit though, is to drill a small pilot hole where you want the switch (1/16" or so) and then drill from both sides. Much less chance of blowing out the finish.
Even better than that is to use a reamer to get the hole to size. They're made specifically for this type of work and they keep the finish from chipping like what happens when you use a drill bit.
Why? Drill bits drill from behind. Reamers cut away the material from the diameter of the hole. Watch Dan Erlewine from StewMac install tuners. When he has to enlarge the holes, he uses a reamer for that specific reason. It keeps the finish from chipping and flaking because it cuts away material from the diameter of the hole instead of removing material from behind and breaking through the surface, which is what, causes the finish to chip and crack.
Use the right tool for the job and it makes it much easier to prevent fuck ups.
Is there a way I can use a button from an arcade machine? Going for that Buckethead aesthetic.
thx
A little late but you can get a 6 pack of arcade style buttons on amazon for like $6
@@TetrisShark70 a little
@@bansku1137 you too
@@himagnamukherjee9382 you as well don't forget that
Arcade buttons FTW
ArriCAT5e buckethead uses arcade buttons on his les paul for killswitches.
Arcade buttons in general are excellent as killswitches because they're so rugged and easy fast to press.
you can also play a bunch of RATM songs
Only reason I’m here cause tom morello inspired me 😂
RATM covers! Tom Morello style!
nutnfan1 My thought exactly!
Tom Morello doesn't use a killswitch; he uses the pickup selector with the volume to one pickup turned all the way down.
Richard Not true... his practice/studio guitars may do this, but on his signature live axes (Arm the Homeless, Soul Power, etc.) he has a toggle kill switch installed. It's actually a bit more difficult to use compared to the push button switch in this video, if you ask me.
I believe not for the Arm the Homeless guitar as it has 2 volume knobs, he has said so in interviews. With the Soul Power I don't know since I've seen the neck pickup being used whilst toggle killswitching.
MessyBugatti Stand corrected on Arm The Homeless, but Soul Power is a true kill switch toggle--it has one volume, two tones and a Strat style 5-way switch, so it's not possible.
I know I'm late to party, but excellent description and clearly presented. Have you ever seen a push/push killswitch/tone pot? I was wanting to install one on a les paul. That way it would be easy to operate and stealthy.
Now I know what buckethead is doing.
To avoid chipping and splintering >>> The CENTRE 'spiral part' of that wood drill bit is called the WORM..., you must drill carefully and STOP as soon as the worm initially protrudes from the other side - then turn the guitar over and drill from that other side using the WORM HOLE as the centre point for you drill.
Oh good... now I don't need to will myself in and out of existence for stutters anymore.
Underrated comment here ^^^
Just wanted to point out, there is a use for the latching type switches as kill switches on a guitar, for example, cutting out the need for a pedel to shut your guitar up inbetween songs or during choppy rythem sections where the breaks need to be exact. While you can use the volume control for these, indeed that's what it's there for, the switch is another alternate and with my style of picking (super heavy handed, a habit i really need to kick) a quick flick of my pinky to hit a mini toggle switch is a much faster and sutle movment then grabing for my volume control. Plus using a switch like this means you can keep your volume control set where it is through out the set so the "not being able to find the right spot again" problem of guitarests like me who max out the volume all the time(shout at me all you want) isn't a factor.
Just my two cents, you're videos are always interesting to watch.
In a topic un-related to this video, since I've never seen you put a link or a video up about your build info and such I'm going to ask these two questions for a friend of mine.
1. Do you ship overseas?
2. do you make extended range instruments? He's really into his 7's and 8's.
you mentioned using a normally open switch to accomplish same results, can you point me to where the instructions are for that please? Thank you!
You are amazingly straight to the point. I don't think I've ever seen anyone on UA-cam who cuts the crap out and talks straight the way you do
This is one of the first videos I’ve seen of yours. It’s crazy to think I’ve been one of your fans for almost 5 years now haha
Could you pre-drill a small center hole from the back to the front, then drill the proper size front to back to avoid blowing out from the front entirely?
exactly how i'd approach the job. small centre hole 1st from the back. and then bang some masking tape on the front and drill the larger hole. no blow-out.
Yeah never drill from behind a finish, drill into it....
Better than that is to drill a small hole then use a reamer to get it to size. That will prevent the finish from chipping without using tape. Watch Dan Erlewine install tuners into a head that needs bigger holes. That's exactly how it's done and exactly why. He uses a reamer to prevent chipping the finish.
Do you have to use an actual killswitch. I have an arcade button with the wires with it
+Kieran Walker Arcade button will work
+Kieran Walker an arcade button would NOT work, because it's primarily off. signal will only go through when the button is pressed
+Jacob Beaumont so you'd have to hold the button down continuously when you played
I wired 2 arcade button killswitches in my guitar. I just soldered the other end to the ground so it grounds out when pressed.
+Jacob Beaumont Why do you say "it won't work". He said that he is actually using one, and it's actually a common modification and they work great.
the greatest switches for the job are industrial limiter switches, with a panel mount plunger. they're super rugged, look nice, quite like the switch on a pedal, and have the snappiest action you can imagine. only ~0.5mm activation travel, untill you get a very tactile CLICK. if i was to build a ray gun or so, that's what i'd use for the trigger. :D
PS: use on/on switches. they are easier to find than "normal open" momentary switches, and with an additional toggle switch, you can invert the action as a kill switch.
(i'm building cigar box guitars)
is there any way to install one of these by where your picking hand is? for ease and epic ass sounds?
Your switch will cancel the signal with the ground or just "cut" the signal going to the channel? I've heard that it's better to ground it rather than just interrupting the signal because that would cause problems with hum and noise when you push the switch.
I’m going to be making a frankenstrat this summer and want to hide a kill switch under the quarter I thought that would be cool
that’s actually really smart hope it turns out well
@@lzasyr yea me too haha
I do like that you put another black bucker in that guitar. it restore the colour scheme IMO
your videos are super informational, would you mind doing a video about boost toggle switches?
Not that I really need it, but the link to the wiring diagram is totally hosed and the article doesn't seem to be anywhere else on your site.
"swetch"
does it work on a strat? and if not what do I use?
Best guitar channel on youtube. Mainle due to your scottish accent. Greetings from DK
I had a look and it appears that the wiring diagram isn't available anymore. I had a look but couldn't find it. It would be really useful if I could look at that diagram. Is it possible to find that again?
at 1:10 and 1:18, those sounds... I heard flanger, or what sounds like it, but how did you make those sounds, other than having the switch? what equipment/settings and technique did you use? pardon me, I am a beginner, only 1 month experience.
Does the energy used for the LED takes away some guitar tone?
The LED powers from the battery, it is not in the signal path of the guitar.
@@ScienceofLoud oh, I didn’t see the whole thing 😭
Earthqauker devices has a good article online explaining why to use a normally open and how to wire it properly. I use to think like you about the NC switches , I was wrong and this explained why
I know this probably won't be answered, but are you able to wire it so that you have Active Pickups and the LED share the same battery, and have the light shine only when the guitar is plugged in?
+trexjack99 yes
I guess you like buckethead?
Hey Colin, I've got a question about kill switches. When my guitar is selected to the bridge pickup and the volume knob is all the way at ten, it will kill the signal. When I put just a hair back, the signal comes back perfectly fine. Is it supposed to act as a kill switch or is it just a problem with my pot?
+yeah man there's a problem with your pot, it shouldn't do that. Consider getting a replacement one.
just turn the volume down in one of your pickups and flick the toggle switch up and down.
cant go fast or clean enough to replicate buckethead. also youre damaging your toggle switch if you try to go anywhere near as fast as that, see: Jordan by Buckethead
yeah, its no where near clean enough and it just breaks your switch
Juan. Lega remember: not all guitars have 2 volume pots
I'd rather just ruin some toggle switches, and/or remove a tone for a 2nd volume, then drill a hole in my guitar for a kill switch. Or just add a momentary switch to a boost pedal...
You're going to break your switch. Then the momentum will make you dig the jagged edge into the body of the guitar, and scratch your $3,000 Les Paul... I've seen it happen at a show :D He was very mad... Not worth it
i wonder if there is a killswitch push/pull poti somewhere....that would be awesome
oh and for those of you who dont want to drill a hole in their guitar:
"shadow kill pot" is a potentiometer you set as your volume pot, when you press it down it kills the sound. no new hole needed.
Shadow kill pot
What soldering iron do you recommend?
Can you up load the wiring image ? Please because the diagram is not available in the Web site actually
I didn't know I had to drill a hole on my guitar to do this. All my life I've used the pick up selector to do the exact same techniques and noises
What if both pickups are controlled by the same knob like I donno... most guitars on the market?
Only possible on a guitar with two volume knobs like a Les Paul.
Most other guitars don't have that.
@@MostlyLost it's easy to replace and you don't need a further hole in your guitar.
Will there be buzz from the 9 volt battery, when it is in the same housing as the rest of wiring, and not on its own?
Great video. Any tips for drilling through a pickguard ?
Incase you didn't understand Collin's explanation, as I didn't the first few times.
*Locking switches:* Once activated it will allow the signal to go through. (light switches, flashlights, vibrators, On/Off switches on amplifiers, etc)
*Momentary switches:* Will spring back to their original position once you stop applying pressure. (TV remotes, volume/power buttons on phones, some vibrators, Buckethead's killswitch, etc.)
*Normally Open:* Do _not_ make signal when left unattended, but once pressure is applied, the signal is then able to go through. (not really a killswitch)
*Normally Closed:* _Does_ allow the signal to go through until pressure is present, the signal will cut off once doing so. When letting go, it will spring back and allow the signal to go through once again.
*_Normally Open/Closed_* are both momentary switches, but can be applied as locking switches.
hey Colin, I never really wore a beanie until I saw that sometimes you wear one, I've got really long hair too and when I wear a cap, I use it to keep my hair out of my face but the brim gets in the way. if I'm playing in front of an audience it just looks weird and honestly i've never thought of wearing one so thanks man and good luck for the future.
Is there a Guitar brand out there with killswitch already?
can someone please decipher his feedback Morse code??
What other buttons could you use like this on the guitar. What different effects could i find?
Buckethead uses a Sanwa game switch (normally open) they are cheap and easy to put in. Wire it between the Volume and ground then just push to use. Advantages of a Sanwa, easy to push, will work for a billion cycles, and it's cheap.
Good video as always. I just don't see myself using one. When I bought my used LTD EC1000, i found the guy who had it before took out the tone pot for the killswitch... a tone knob is much more useful for me. it did give me motivation to put a dual concentric pot so I could adjust the two pickup tones independently, though, so it's all good...
No es mejor perforar la guitarra, dejar los potenciómetros y después poner el kill switch?
What kind of button is this? normally open or normally closed? Thank you very much for your project, my congratulations !!!
I recently install a killswitch on my guitar, but did it with a "stick" switch, worst idea ever, because you have to get rid of your pick to be able to take the button between the thumb and the forefinger. That's a bit stupid, but weirdly you can't really figure that out before actually trying it.
Well, was looking for a cool new killswitch to install, and I'm definitely going to order on ironageaccessoiries.
Thank you mate !
so is the battery only for led kill switches?
My killswitch came with 2 black and 2 yellow wires. How would I go about installing it without a battery? I have no desire for the LED.
There's a way to use a killswitch as a normal toggle? I like the low profile and I tend to hit my 3 way toggle out of position when playing fast. I was thinking having a low profile toggle like a killswitch should work🙏🏻
the killpot broke on my cherry sg special. should i ditch the tone knob and get this switch
Thanks for the wiring diagram and explanation. I'm planning on installing a killswitch on my yamaha when I upgrade the pickups. I'm not sure if I have a normally open or normally closed switch yet, but at least now I know how to wire it regardless.
EMG makes a good one with the solder less connectivity, for a even easier installation.
That's only useful if you have an EMG system
Please help, I installed my kill switch but it clicks when I press it. It's an arcade button. How do I remove the click sound throu the amp. When strings are not being rung the switch is silent but when a string sounds the botton will click through the amp. There's a video on you tube of a dude with the same switch and his makes the same sound. Your switch just cut off the sound with no click. What have I done wrong?
Where should I go to get a locking killswitch? I don't see myself using those momentary switches. Nice Dorje poster.
+Mega MountainMan Get an ON-ON (6 pole) mini toggle switch, and check out the "how to wire a killswitch" diagram from the seymour duncan website. I got a really cheap (shitty) one for about $3 on ebay, or you can get much better quality ones from dimarzio, etc for around $20-30.
Nick Butler
I'm broke. I spent too much on pedals and stuff.
I can't find your wiring diagram. Did you take it down?
So how is it that adding the kill switch, doesn't open-circuit the input of your amp? Those of us with valve amps make sure that there is always an input load connected (like a guitar), so I was half expecting one of the resistors included to be in series with the switch when it is pressed. Eg, when the switch isn't pressed, the pickups are across the input of the amp, and the the switch is pressed, the resistor is across instead. It seems in this installation, pressing the switch, simply breaks the circuit, just like there was no guitar plugged in... am I missing something here?
+MightyFloyd the part you are missing is that there is no issue with not having signal reach the front of your amp.
You seem to very confused about how this all works.
Thanks mate! Was wondering about these after hearing FFDP's Full Circle. Check that song out. That's a stutter button right?
Will these switches fit in a standard volume/tone hole? I am buying a Reverend Sensei and want to remove the tone control and move the volume down to where the tone control was leaving a hole where the volume used to be and a perfect place for a kill switch
I have a Schecter SLS C-7 P with an SH-6 Distortion in the bridge position and an SH-2 Jazz in the neck position, and no battery cavity. How would I install this switch?
How do you get rid of any popping noise when pressing the button? Thanks for the great videos!
Do you have the switch in series with the signal to the output jack? This is why it is popping.
You need the switch to be in parallel, short-circuiting the signal to ground. NOT breaking the signal - this creates voltage spikes, which make popping noises.
And yes, CSguitars explained this backwards and got it completely wrong. Although the wiring diagram on the link is correct.
Hey bro been trying to figure out all night what mm to go with on my Jazzmaster build ,yes a JM with a kill switch should be fun . You may of mentioned in video the mm of the one installed? Nice job on recess the button. Thanks JB
Watched all the videos I could find, read the info on the website, and still a tad uncertain what the best way is to wire up my Iron Age (non-led) kill switch to my Carvin DC-127 (active, two humbuckers, non-stereo jack). Would connect to ground & hot on jack work? Any help would be appreciated!
Got a question here. Your guitar (luckily) has a cavity for a 9 volt battery which supplies your LED in your killswitch. My Ibanez for example doesn't, because it came with stock passive pickups. Is there anyway to get a voltage from the electrical components within your guitar, or will I just have to make a cavity for a 9V? My guitar is already packed with wires and other components, so I can't put another battery in there.
Greetings from Belgium, by the way. Keep making the scientific videos.
What is the effect you're using starting @ 1:10?
Are there any killswitches that I can have set up as toggle and momentary? I would like to be able to do a toggle for certain situations where I am not playing, and a momentary for various effects.
Switches which are locking in one direction and momentary in another are quite common. You'd be looking for a switch with the denotation "on-off-(on)", the brackets indicate momentary. These are usually either toggle or rocker switches.
You'd wire them similar to here, have the signal connect to the center pin and leave it again to go to the output jack. This allows your guitar to sound even though the switch is 'open'
The other two contacts would then connect to ground, so whichever direction you threw the switch, the signal gets connected to ground, silencing the guitar.
CSGuitars Okay, thanks
I actually bought this killswitch and it is installed now and works great. Thanks for posting the video!
My Kill Button is scratchy sounding and it's the second one that has done that (both are different types of button). Is this normal please? Thanks
I really like that switch....where did he say to get that at?
Iron Age accessories
I looked them up, and you can get them on Amazon USA, but they won't ship to the UK? So how do I get them to ship one over to me?
Hi. Please where the link to get that kill switch. Thanks
What's the name of that Marshall amp in the background?
Someone may have already asked this question, but is this able to be installed if you use active pickups?
Hi What is the router brand are you using for the dremel?
Having work done in my home while watching this, so turned on the CC option. Now that's good fun.
Can you show us how to install the toggle type killswitch. I really wanna try Tom Morello's style, but i only have a strat. Will be really cool if you could help me out.
if i have active pickups can i run the l.e.d on the same battery? sweet judas poster btw
Thanks. Ordering one to have done. Not going to chance messing it up. I like the switch you got Scotty!!
you can negate chips if you take another block of wood and clip it to your guitar so that the drill exits your guitar and goes right into your block of wood.
Would this work on a three single coil loaded, 1 volume and 1 tone pot strat?
Can I wire it so I have a pre amp and the switch using one battery?
ok i need help :D i have pruchased one of these, black chrome with a white LED, but i dont want the led, but problem is, mine didnt come with a diagramme, and im not sure what wire does what, there are 2 black wires, and 2 white wires, no lables or marking whatsoever... any ideas dude?
You'd be best contacting Iron Age and asking.
If you want to work it out for yourself then I'd suggest grabbing a AA or AAA battery (not the 9v as it will blow the LED) and touching each end of the battery with each wire in turn and seeing which two light the LED.
Once you find out which ones do, you'll know the other two are the ones to use in the audio circuit.
I hope this helps
Thats a great idea, maybe AAA just incase of any damage, this couldnt damage the killswith part of the unit though? I have mailed them from their website also, im just awaiting a reply :) thaks for the help
+Marcus Johnson i just found a video in the article section of the website, explains everything >.< thanks anyway dude ;) great installation video btw
Both AA and AAA run at 1.5v, the only difference is their size.
The kill switch will be rated to probably a couple hundred volts, so batteries will do nothing to it.
It doesn't matter which way around the wires go, the switch is only breaking a connection. It can be inverted without any issue.
I have a question, can I install the killswith push button without installing the LED light ? and is the arcade game button is a SPST?
Hafiz Iman you can just use the switch that toggles the led
Awesome How To video! Will you be doing a review on the new Dragons Heart GT pick anytime soon?
If my guitar has already active PUs, can I use the same battery or do I need a different one?
Thanks a lot for this video
You can tap power off the existing battery, no need to install a second one.
Thanks !
My only concern about this Led Killswitch is the battery life, i want to put it in my two guitars which have Seymour Duncan Blackouts, if the killswitch drains fast the battery, i will put a regular killswitch on them
is it different for a strat? like how Tom Morello has a locking switch at the second arch, isn't it easier to install for that guitar?
Excellent UA-cam channel!! You've answered many of questions for me in just this one tutorial. Brilliant! Thanks mate!
Hi Colin love the your UA-cam channel mate where can you buy those chicken and dragon picks went to my local music shop they thought i was sniffing glue by the look i got tried a few sites wasn't able to find the i have used gorilla snot drys to quick
if I want to delete the tone knob and put the Killswitch instead?
Hey Collin!!! I have active pickups in my Ibanez RGIR20FE and it has a Killswitch already in there. I want to replace its Killswitch with this one... Would the process that you did be the same? Also the LED... Could I hook that up to my already 9V for my actives or is that a bad idea?
+Goofy GooberInc Yes, the process would be the same. You'd probably still have to drill out the hole wider to accommodate the size of these LED switches.
You certainly can link up the LED to the 9V that is already powering the active pickups, it shouldn't case any problems.
In theory the LED will reduce the lifetime of the battery, but it will be so negligible in practice it's not worth worrying about.
Did you ever install the Iron Age killswitch in your guitar? Just curious as I have the RGIR27FE and was hoping it would just drop in.
drilling a hole tip;
dirll a pilote hole of eg 5mm with a sharp metal drill starting from the lacker side
take the drill for last measure you would like and start drilling from the lacker side 5 to 6 mm deep
turn the guitar over and finish of the hole (dont go through but stop in the middle and retract)
done
Could you have another locking switch that in one position functions normally but in the other activates a normally closed killswitch so you can easily do silly stuff like Buckethead?
just ordered a killswitch from iron age and was wondering a couple things about killswitches if someone could fill me in. is there going to be any noticeable "popping" sound coming from my amp every time i engage the switch, and is repeatedly cutting my signal in any way harmful to my amp or guitar?
+Sprong4 Shouldn't be any popping. The only reason that happens when plugging/unplugging an instrument cable is because of metal to metal contact of the plug and input assembly. And all your're doing is stopping the electrical current from finishing the circuit, so no harmful things happen to your guitar or amp.