By far the best video addressing removing and installing window sashes. I found no others that included the upper sash. Such a good explanation of how to feed the ropes and how to cut them to the appropriate length. So clearly presented especially for a beginner like me. Thank you!!
Seriously, from the bottom of my heart, thank you SOO much for this video! We purchased a home built in 1910, and this actually makes me excited to begin restoring our windows!
I'm almost 10 years in on residential carpentry in an East Coast city with tons of old houses. Torn out a lot of these old windows for pocket replacements, but never installed new sashes on an old window. Next week I'm flying the nest and becoming a lead carpenter. First job is replacing the sashes in a 100 year old house. Your video here has relieved all my stress for Monday. Great content, thank you very much!
THIS is EXACTLY what I needed. I think this is the only UA-cam video that shows you how to remove the 'parting bead'. I could not figure out how to get out the upper window pane until I watched this. THANK YOU!!!!
I love watching these sash window videos , it’s what I do for a living , been doing them 30+ years , done well over 10k . In England we fit new staff and parting beads that have brush pile in them , this is for draughtproofing and makes them slide easier , I would always re-cord in one continuous rope -saves so much cord . I always put a screw under one side of the top sash before removing the parting bead , this is to stop it falling once freed if it’s no longer attached to the old cord . Finally I never use Philips screws in Victorian style ironmongery - always slotted , as they would of been . In the uk , we’re not as strict about lead paint , so I burn all the paint off the boxes and strip the paint off the sashes before re-priming , not sure if you’re allowed to do that in America
Between reading your new book and watching this video **a bunch of times** I’ve successfully removed the first of many windows in our old house. Well, I should say the hubs and I removed the top and bottom sashes, lol. I just thought I could do it by myself. Everything went just as you said it would including paint, nails, caulk, and gloop. Thanks so much!
Very clear and thorough! Thanks for sharing. I have a 1923 craftsman home in Southern California. Bottom sash are able to move up and down however the top sash are not. So this is going to be one of my future project to get the top sash in working order. Thanks again!
I've done a number of windows and this video is excellent. One thing you seemed to gloss over was the reinstallation of the second parting bead. I've always found it difficult to squeeze in that second bead and getting it past the notch in the upper sash. Would love to see how you do it.
Best video out there on this topic. Love that you showed the ENTIRE job, start to end. Another UA-cam video notes that only one side of the stops need to be removed, which can save a little time. Plus, not sure why you removed the top stop...just to make sure all the woodwork matches perfectly perhaps? Thanks for the information.
I’m going to try this. I bought a 90 year old craftsman home last summer with all original woodwork, built ins and windows. Everything is in great condition and have never been painted.
We bought an old house about a year ago and have started working on the old weighted windows. thank you for the video!!!! i could not figure out how to get the top sash out. It breaks my heart to see how many coats of paint is on these windows, my goodness a little maintenance every couple of years would have been sufficient. sad all that work has been hid all these years but these 81 year old windows are gonna shine again!!
I'm having the same issue, between weather stripping, my storm window and the paint and deteriorating parting bead, I can't tell what is the main hangup! Did you get it figured out? If not how did you go about repairing the top sash?
❤you just saved me €2,000- the quote I got from a sash window company to replace a broken sash cord on a top sash. Thankyou so much, if you ever in Dublin I will buy you a pint!
Thank you Very much ! One of the best all around videos I've seen ! Simple, very detailed, informative, one step right into the other. Well explained. Again, thank you ! Blessings.
Easily the best shot, ordered, edited, best explained & most comprehensive tutorial I’ve seen on the subject. MANY THANKS. Totally flummoxed that You Tube offered it to me so late over a 60 day period of watching dozens of vids on sash maintenance. Q’s Maestro: any reason not to use screws to reaffix stop? I was thinking of using trim heads, so as not to hammer into my 100 year old wood. Your meeting rail locks - LOOK GREAT! What are they called/where do we buy them? - Do they pull the 2 rails together nicely re: air seal? Looks like the lower sash ½ of the mounting plate attaches (factory screw locations) way to close to the rear of the rail - not much wood between the screw & outward rear surface of the rail - true?
Absolutely the best video I have seen on taking apart an old window your book looks very interesting but is a little expensive and there's no reviews yet but I will be watching to see reviews of it. Meanwhile I will check out he rest of your videos.
Thanks for this video! It was really helpful for me as I start to work on the windows in my 1903 home. I picked up a copy of your book "Old Windows Made Easy" too as a reference. 👍🏻
This is a fantastic video, thank you!!! I’m wondering if you know what kind of sash locks you installed? We’re they the originals or a new product? I like the black body and white knob.
This is going to be not fun lol. But it will save me probably a lot of money doing it myself rather than someone else. Honest people are extremely hard to come by, sadly. Especially for a single female that doesn't know the pricing of things. Thank you so much for the detailed tut on how to fix old windows!
Surprisingly I found by removing the outside window trim and stop the channel with the weights and rope was totally exposed I only had a pry off two pieces of outside trim I cannot believe how easy it is doing it this way I'm not sure if my Craftsman House is just built a little different since no one ever mentions getting at these parts from outside instead of inside I am very happy to have found this shortcut. I love all your videos
Man dude you make it look so easy. But yeah like you mentioned some of these windows (like mine) have 100 coats of paint on them which makes things extra fun.
Hi Scott, Really like your high quality, info jam-packed videos. Q: If I'm going to be painting the windows with an all in one primer/paint product what will that do to the glazing since you state not to prime it?
Excellent video. I recently purchased a 100 year old farm house. None of the windows open. Lots and lots of paint. Once the windows are out. Should I sand and repaint the windows and the frame while the windows are out? On the pulleys. Should I put a drop of grease on the bearing? Should I wax the edge of the windows?
Great video. Thank you. I have 9 wooden windows that either need to restore or replace. My question is, can windows be restored to be really sealed and tight without drafts? Is metal weather stripping as effective as vinyl stripping? Also I am having trouble figuring out what kind of stripping I can use for where the two windows meet and touch? Thank you so much.
Great video! I live in a 1920's building and the windows have chains not rope. Of course chains are painted and/or missing. Do I replace with chains or rope? Also, the top windows are painted shut and don't slide but I am concerned if I free them up they will slide down quickly and the glass will break. Thank you!!!
We’re missing the step of how you solved the problem of the friction between the frame and sashes. You needed to remove mass (ie, paint) from one or the other for the sashes to move freely again. How did you remove that mass (paint stripper? Block plane?), and did you take it from the sashes or the frame?
very common in making old wood sash windows work again,,rope gets painted in decorating, and fibers break over time,tenants leave the storm cracked open in rain n snow,= water soaks the old wood sill,nails too large when nailing up the trim catch the rope weights,windows painted solid shut, I have been working w wood sashes for 30 years, so nice to see them work again,well puttied and preserved wood usually outlasts the plastic aluminum double whammy windows and the biddy springs ckips and doodads that break after a few years,sometimes earlier
Do you ever add in any sort of weatherstripping when redoing old windows? I'm about to embark on trying to restore some of the ~100 year old windows in my house and I feel like they would really benefit from some sort of weatherstripping to make a better seal against the frame. Thanks for any advice
@@TheCraftsmanBlog Thanks for this question and response. We live outside Boston and recently had some broken sash ropes. Unfortunately the highly recommended person took out the weather stripping and told us it wasn't really needed. Now the windows are shaky and more drafty. Will try to find someone to re-do the striping in the spring/summer next year.
Great video. My craftsman bungalow was built in 1923 and the windows do not have an access door for the weights. How do I replace the ropes which have broken? Also, some of my windows rattle when the wind blows. Is there a good way to get them to fit tighter?
I am currently rebuilding some windows of this style to install in a green house, I am looking for information on how to frame them in since there has to be room for the weights. Great videos by the way I have already learned alot
Excellent video! When I got into removing my old sash windows (from mid 1920's), I found that neither sash would come out even after I removed the stops. I found that both sashes were additionally held in place by a "j-channel" like track. Making it nearly impossible to remove the window without bending this track to oblivion. Have you ever run into anything like this? Thanks again for the videos!!
I know this sounds horrible, but once you get the pulleys and weight an out, can you pop in a vinyl replacement window, or is there more prep involved?
Sir, would you recommend painting the sash channel? I have a 110-year old home, and some of the channels are bare, and some are painted. Seems to me that painting is more attractive, but may cause problems with sticking. The bare channels are less attractive, but avoids paint build-up that may make the sashes stick.
I’ve noticed this a is a regional preference. So, Inusually follow the pattern of what was originally done or most common in the area. You’re right that both have a benefit though.
Hey, love the videos, the best I've come across on the topic of sash windows! Quick question - my sashes have pulleys that don't have any screws. They're caked in old paint and I'd love to replace them but not sure how to take them out, or if it's more trouble than it's worth. Any ideas?
Sounds like press-fit pulleys and the only way to get them out is to pry them out which ends up ruining them. You might have some luck finding new old stock replacements on eBay or somewhere and if you do, then replacing can work otherwise you might be better trying to clean them up and get them working again.
This is got to be the best video that I have found on how to fix my double hung windows in the apartment that I'm renting. But I still cannot find 1 that talks about using a metal belts for the rope sash instead of a chain or a rope! What am I dealing with? Can I just replace the it with rope?
Your videos are awesome just be careful on the lead safe side working on a 100 + year window involves a lot more precaution for you, the client, and the regulations. Tyvek suits and plastic suck but they are necessary especially for repeated exposure.
Terrific video! Do you have any suggestions on window weight access panels that have been rabbeted? They were very difficult to remove, now I'm not sure how to re-install them. I see your demonstration window didn't have the vertical rabbet that fit behind. is it essential? Could it be sawn off?
I do paint it usually unless it was originally bare. I mill it slightly smaller (about 1/16 so that with the paint film it is the right thickness to fit in the channel.
So do you have any tips for pressed pulleys and weighting the ropes? I feel like its a bit more difficult to add weight since the pulley can not be removed
I’ve just finished restoring my first of these in an 1880 house in Auckland, New Zealand. It took some time and some swear words, but your video was an immense help. Thank you. A question though, I’m now finding the window - bottom sash - won’t stay open. What am I missing? Is there a way of fixing that?
Mate, nice vid. My bead goes all the way round and is nailed in. For yours the bottom corners are free... All my corner joints are angled. What that means is I can't pry the bead wide enough to free the nails cos the bead is stuck both top and bottom by the corner of the adjacent beads. I already snapped one trying to finesse it out, any tips? Cheers
Great video! My windows are circa 1920. My weight pocket doesn’t have a screw. It just has a wood “lip” that goes in first but I can’t get the other side in without pounding on it and it still won’t budge. Any tricks for that?
If it’s a single hung window, do you have to remove the center bead to replace the ropes? Also can you visually identify if it’s a single or double before you start working?
Have you ever seen a top window that is fixed? I am restoring windows in an 1865 house and when I pulled the window stops out I found no pulley. 1 spot that may have had screws at one time to hold the small "door" that holds the weights but it's half way up the window casing. I am stumped on how to restore the cords. If you could give me some insight it would be much appreciated. Thanks!
When pulling the pullies, if they are the cast iron type be careful they are brittle and it doesn’t take much prying to snap the flange. From experience.
Fantastic video! After I put the window back together, the visible parts along the sides looks kind of beat up. If I caulk, then the next person would need to remove it if they need to remove the windows. Is that OK? Also, instead of rope, I have been using chain. Do you ever do that instead?
You can use chain instead of rope without many problems. If you need to caulk the parting bead in place you can but you’re right it will make it harder to remove next time.
@@TheCraftsmanBlog My early window fixes will definitely need a bead of caulk to paint up nicely but with the help of your video, my recent window repairs are much, much cleaner. That 5 in 1 tool works wonders!
Thanks again for these awesome videos. I had a quick question - I'm installing new parting beads (the old ones caked in paint snapped). I'm actually having a clear finish on the inside of the sash and painting it white on the exterior. Should the parting bead be sealed with polyurethane? Oil? Or just left as is? Also the side panels (which cover the cords and weights) - should they be bare wood or painted? Thanks again!
It depends what was originally there. In some regions the jambs were left bare whereas down here in Florida they were almost always painted. If the interior of the sash is going to be varnished then I would also varnish the part of the parting bead that shows inside. But paint the exterior portion.
How can you tell if the top window was made to open on old double hung windows? I recently purchased a house built in 1920 and would love to have my original poured glass windows open from the top.
I've done a few of these windows on my 1902 Victorian. What I find the biggest pain in the #@# is the blown in insulation inside the weight cavities. Any recommendations on how to remove that hindrance would be very welcome!
Hey, Scott. I've done a lot of that work and you've done a good job of both explaining and recording. The back light issue is challenging - I know. This is well done and informative. I need to try recording removal again. I now have a good camera man so we'll see what happens. I need to help my clients understand how easy it is to swap out sash. We're now making a replacement sash system with a .21 U factor, 50 year warranty pine (even unpainted) historic profiles, perfect balance and muntins that you can't tell are not TDL. They slip right into the existing jamb with integral weather-stripping. Let's stay in touch.
Why do you leave the pulleys in if they're press fit? Is that because it's hard to get that nice fit again? Also, is there anything you recommend to clean up and then lubricate painted and gummed up old pulleys?
@@TheCraftsmanBlog Thank you! By the way, how did you remove the existing nails from the stops before reinstalling them? Or did you just slot them into the existing holes they came from?
wait a minute! i thought the stool was a shelf (horizontal flat piece of wood, metal, etc.) that you attach to the part of the sill on the inside of the window. are you saying the stool is actually the inner part of the sill and not the attached shelf?
By far the best video addressing removing and installing window sashes. I found no others that included the upper sash. Such a good explanation of how to feed the ropes and how to cut them to the appropriate length. So clearly presented especially for a beginner like me. Thank you!!
Seriously, from the bottom of my heart, thank you SOO much for this video! We purchased a home built in 1910, and this actually makes me excited to begin restoring our windows!
Awesome!
I'm almost 10 years in on residential carpentry in an East Coast city with tons of old houses. Torn out a lot of these old windows for pocket replacements, but never installed new sashes on an old window.
Next week I'm flying the nest and becoming a lead carpenter. First job is replacing the sashes in a 100 year old house.
Your video here has relieved all my stress for Monday.
Great content, thank you very much!
I have watched a wide variety of videos for replacing ropes on the sash and I think this was the best of any period Thank you
THIS is EXACTLY what I needed. I think this is the only UA-cam video that shows you how to remove the 'parting bead'. I could not figure out how to get out the upper window pane until I watched this. THANK YOU!!!!
Go get ‘em now! 💪🏻
I love watching these sash window videos , it’s what I do for a living , been doing them 30+ years , done well over 10k . In England we fit new staff and parting beads that have brush pile in them , this is for draughtproofing and makes them slide easier , I would always re-cord in one continuous rope -saves so much cord . I always put a screw under one side of the top sash before removing the parting bead , this is to stop it falling once freed if it’s no longer attached to the old cord . Finally I never use Philips screws in Victorian style ironmongery - always slotted , as they would of been . In the uk , we’re not as strict about lead paint , so I burn all the paint off the boxes and strip the paint off the sashes before re-priming , not sure if you’re allowed to do that in America
Between reading your new book and watching this video **a bunch of times** I’ve successfully removed the first of many windows in our old house. Well, I should say the hubs and I removed the top and bottom sashes, lol. I just thought I could do it by myself. Everything went just as you said it would including paint, nails, caulk, and gloop. Thanks so much!
So glad it’s been helpful! Beware of the gloop!
Very helpful! Our windows have a metal groove runner between the sash and the frame...how do I remove my window with that in place?
Very clear and thorough! Thanks for sharing. I have a 1923 craftsman home in Southern California. Bottom sash are able to move up and down however the top sash are not. So this is going to be one of my future project to get the top sash in working order. Thanks again!
Sir that is some of the most brilliant Sash window instruction that I have ever seen!!! Well done and excellent photography👍
Thank you!
I've done a number of windows and this video is excellent. One thing you seemed to gloss over was the reinstallation of the second parting bead. I've always found it difficult to squeeze in that second bead and getting it past the notch in the upper sash. Would love to see how you do it.
This video is exactly what I need! I have ten 6-over-1 double hung windows that need work including new sash cords and painting. Thank you SO much.
Best video out there on this topic. Love that you showed the ENTIRE job, start to end. Another UA-cam video notes that only one side of the stops need to be removed, which can save a little time. Plus, not sure why you removed the top stop...just to make sure all the woodwork matches perfectly perhaps? Thanks for the information.
I’m going to try this. I bought a 90 year old craftsman home last summer with all original woodwork, built ins and windows. Everything is in great condition and have never been painted.
atleast yours doesnt have 5 coats of paint like mine does, i bet they are beautiful. Im in the process of 'digging' mine out from under all the lead.
We bought an old house about a year ago and have started working on the old weighted windows. thank you for the video!!!! i could not figure out how to get the top sash out. It breaks my heart to see how many coats of paint is on these windows, my goodness a little maintenance every couple of years would have been sufficient. sad all that work has been hid all these years but these 81 year old windows are gonna shine again!!
I'm having the same issue, between weather stripping, my storm window and the paint and deteriorating parting bead, I can't tell what is the main hangup! Did you get it figured out? If not how did you go about repairing the top sash?
❤you just saved me €2,000- the quote I got from a sash window company to replace a broken sash cord on a top sash. Thankyou so much, if you ever in Dublin I will buy you a pint!
I agree with many of the comments and say best detail video. I appreciate showing this.
Thank you Very much !
One of the best all around videos I've seen !
Simple, very detailed, informative, one step right into the other. Well explained.
Again, thank you !
Blessings.
Easily the best shot, ordered, edited, best explained & most comprehensive tutorial I’ve seen on the subject. MANY THANKS. Totally flummoxed that You Tube offered it to me so late over a 60 day period of watching dozens of vids on sash maintenance. Q’s Maestro: any reason not to use screws to reaffix stop? I was thinking of using trim heads, so as not to hammer into my 100 year old wood. Your meeting rail locks - LOOK GREAT! What are they called/where do we buy them? - Do they pull the 2 rails together nicely re: air seal? Looks like the lower sash ½ of the mounting plate attaches (factory screw locations) way to close to the rear of the rail - not much wood between the screw & outward rear surface of the rail - true?
Marvellous step-by-step guide to removing /replacing wooden sash windows - the best video I have seen...thanks 🙂
Absolutely the best video I have seen on taking apart an old window your book looks very interesting but is a little expensive and there's no reviews yet but I will be watching to see reviews of it. Meanwhile I will check out he rest of your videos.
Expensive but worth it when you think of the cost to restore 1 window is around $800-1600. An ebook for $27 bucks is beyond cheap.
Love the look of old "wavy" glass.
I’ve been you for past 5 days...
Replaced all the crappy painted over and broken weight ropes for some shiny brass chain👍🏻👍🏻
Took me 20 tries to find a video with the top sash removal. Huge thumbs up for that.
Awesome!
Thanks for this video! It was really helpful for me as I start to work on the windows in my 1903 home. I picked up a copy of your book "Old Windows Made Easy" too as a reference. 👍🏻
The Best video on this subject out there! Covers everything! Thank you!
Glad it helped you!
Awesome instruction. The music helps relieve the tension!
Thanks!
Brilliant, thank you. My house in England was built in 1850, this is goung to save me a wheel barrow of money. :)
This is a fantastic video, thank you!!! I’m wondering if you know what kind of sash locks you installed? We’re they the originals or a new product? I like the black body and white knob.
Incredibly detailed video - love it!
Very helpful. I love these old windows with cool trim.
Wonderful video. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
So glad it helped!
This is going to be not fun lol. But it will save me probably a lot of money doing it myself rather than someone else. Honest people are extremely hard to come by, sadly. Especially for a single female that doesn't know the pricing of things.
Thank you so much for the detailed tut on how to fix old windows!
This video is amazing! We were finally able to fix our windows!
No need to search any other videos on wood windows. This is the one.
Great work. My question is how to deal with a metal jamb liner, will they come out ok or will I have to buy/find new liners?
Surprisingly I found by removing the outside window trim and stop the channel with the weights and rope was totally exposed I only had a pry off two pieces of outside trim I cannot believe how easy it is doing it this way I'm not sure if my Craftsman House is just built a little different since no one ever mentions getting at these parts from outside instead of inside I am very happy to have found this shortcut. I love all your videos
Man dude you make it look so easy. But yeah like you mentioned some of these windows (like mine) have 100 coats of paint on them which makes things extra fun.
Made it look so stress free, I seem to be pulling my hair out less and less as I do them but he is a natural haha
Just lots of practice!
Very well done and professional video, thanks!
Hi Scott, Really like your high quality, info jam-packed videos. Q: If I'm going to be painting the windows with an all in one primer/paint product what will that do to the glazing since you state not to prime it?
Excellent video. I recently purchased a 100 year old farm house. None of the windows open. Lots and lots of paint.
Once the windows are out. Should I sand and repaint the windows and the frame while the windows are out?
On the pulleys. Should I put a drop of grease on the bearing? Should I wax the edge of the windows?
Thanks for the detailed video, by far the best one I've watched, you've helped me save quite a it of money....cheers!🤙
Great video. Thank you.
I have 9 wooden windows that either need to restore or replace. My question is, can windows be restored to be really sealed and tight without drafts? Is metal weather stripping as effective as vinyl stripping? Also I am having trouble figuring out what kind of stripping I can use for where the two windows meet and touch?
Thank you so much.
Fantastic video. Thank you for the in depth information :).
Great video! I live in a 1920's building and the windows have chains not rope. Of course chains are painted and/or missing. Do I replace with chains or rope? Also, the top windows are painted shut and don't slide but I am concerned if I free them up they will slide down quickly and the glass will break. Thank you!!!
Great presentation. Thank you. Hope I can manage. Will be sure to have this video by my side.
We’re missing the step of how you solved the problem of the friction between the frame and sashes. You needed to remove mass (ie, paint) from one or the other for the sashes to move freely again. How did you remove that mass (paint stripper? Block plane?), and did you take it from the sashes or the frame?
I was wondering the same thing and expected him to over it as the built up paint causes the windows to stick and not open all the way.
very common in making old wood sash windows work again,,rope gets painted in decorating, and fibers break over time,tenants leave the storm cracked open in rain n snow,= water soaks the old wood sill,nails too large when nailing up the trim catch the rope weights,windows painted solid shut, I have been working w wood sashes for 30 years, so nice to see them work again,well puttied and preserved wood usually outlasts the plastic aluminum double whammy windows and the biddy springs ckips and doodads that break after a few years,sometimes earlier
Do you ever add in any sort of weatherstripping when redoing old windows? I'm about to embark on trying to restore some of the ~100 year old windows in my house and I feel like they would really benefit from some sort of weatherstripping to make a better seal against the frame. Thanks for any advice
I do often add spring bronze weatherstripping along the sides of the jamb which is very effective and long lasting.
@@TheCraftsmanBlog Thanks for this question and response. We live outside Boston and recently had some broken sash ropes. Unfortunately the highly recommended person took out the weather stripping and told us it wasn't really needed. Now the windows are shaky and more drafty. Will try to find someone to re-do the striping in the spring/summer next year.
Rehabbing an old house in Michigan. I WISH my pulleys came out that easy. They were a major pain to remove.
This video was amazing now I know lm going to save money just by replacing this stuff great thanks for sharing 👍
I would never think a window could be so complex.😲😲
Great video. My craftsman bungalow was built in 1923 and the windows do not have an access door for the weights. How do I replace the ropes which have broken?
Also, some of my windows rattle when the wind blows. Is there a good way to get them to fit tighter?
I am currently rebuilding some windows of this style to install in a green house, I am looking for information on how to frame them in since there has to be room for the weights. Great videos by the way I have already learned alot
Omg the duckbill thats a great friggin idea
This is really good, thank you for making this video. :)
Excellent video! When I got into removing my old sash windows (from mid 1920's), I found that neither sash would come out even after I removed the stops. I found that both sashes were additionally held in place by a "j-channel" like track. Making it nearly impossible to remove the window without bending this track to oblivion. Have you ever run into anything like this? Thanks again for the videos!!
I ran into this same issue. What did you do?
Thanks. My sash has a bottom strip as well. Do I need to remove it too?
Very good video! Thanks
This looks pretty easy 👍
Thank you, very helpful video.
Oh my god you have literally saved me. Thank you for sharing.
I know this sounds horrible, but once you get the pulleys and weight an out, can you pop in a vinyl replacement window, or is there more prep involved?
Nicely explained.... thanks alot for the video
Awesome video! Thank you.
Sir, would you recommend painting the sash channel? I have a 110-year old home, and some of the channels are bare, and some are painted. Seems to me that painting is more attractive, but may cause problems with sticking. The bare channels are less attractive, but avoids paint build-up that may make the sashes stick.
I’ve noticed this a is a regional preference. So, Inusually follow the pattern of what was originally done or most common in the area. You’re right that both have a benefit though.
@@TheCraftsmanBlog Thank you sir!
Hey, love the videos, the best I've come across on the topic of sash windows! Quick question - my sashes have pulleys that don't have any screws. They're caked in old paint and I'd love to replace them but not sure how to take them out, or if it's more trouble than it's worth. Any ideas?
Sounds like press-fit pulleys and the only way to get them out is to pry them out which ends up ruining them. You might have some luck finding new old stock replacements on eBay or somewhere and if you do, then replacing can work otherwise you might be better trying to clean them up and get them working again.
This is got to be the best video that I have found on how to fix my double hung windows in the apartment that I'm renting.
But I still cannot find 1 that talks about using a metal belts for the rope sash instead of a chain or a rope! What am I dealing with? Can I just replace the it with rope?
Your videos are awesome just be careful on the lead safe side working on a 100 + year window involves a lot more precaution for you, the client, and the regulations. Tyvek suits and plastic suck but they are necessary especially for repeated exposure.
Terrific video! Do you have any suggestions on window weight access panels that have been rabbeted? They were very difficult to remove, now I'm not sure how to re-install them. I see your demonstration window didn't have the vertical rabbet that fit behind. is it essential? Could it be sawn off?
Did you prepaint the parting bead? When I prepaint mine they never go back in easily, any tricks to milling your new parting bead?
I do paint it usually unless it was originally bare. I mill it slightly smaller (about 1/16 so that with the paint film it is the right thickness to fit in the channel.
So do you have any tips for pressed pulleys and weighting the ropes? I feel like its a bit more difficult to add weight since the pulley can not be removed
I’ve just finished restoring my first of these in an 1880 house in Auckland, New Zealand. It took some time and some swear words, but your video was an immense help. Thank you.
A question though, I’m now finding the window - bottom sash - won’t stay open. What am I missing? Is there a way of fixing that?
Hi from another 1880s house in Auckland NZ!
Awesome video, great help!
Mate, nice vid. My bead goes all the way round and is nailed in. For yours the bottom corners are free... All my corner joints are angled. What that means is I can't pry the bead wide enough to free the nails cos the bead is stuck both top and bottom by the corner of the adjacent beads. I already snapped one trying to finesse it out, any tips? Cheers
Great video! My windows are circa 1920. My weight pocket doesn’t have a screw. It just has a wood “lip” that goes in first but I can’t get the other side in without pounding on it and it still won’t budge. Any tricks for that?
What was the trim you removed with your hammer and is it called a window stopper
If it’s a single hung window, do you have to remove the center bead to replace the ropes? Also can you visually identify if it’s a single or double before you start working?
Question. Is it possible to buy modern, more efficient replacements for these type of windows?
Fantastic video, thank you so much!
Have you ever seen a top window that is fixed? I am restoring windows in an 1865 house and when I pulled the window stops out I found no pulley. 1 spot that may have had screws at one time to hold the small "door" that holds the weights but it's half way up the window casing. I am stumped on how to restore the cords. If you could give me some insight it would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Love the glass... antique
When pulling the pullies, if they are the cast iron type be careful they are brittle and it doesn’t take much prying to snap the flange. From experience.
Fantastic video! After I put the window back together, the visible parts along the sides looks kind of beat up. If I caulk, then the next person would need to remove it if they need to remove the windows. Is that OK? Also, instead of rope, I have been using chain. Do you ever do that instead?
You can use chain instead of rope without many problems. If you need to caulk the parting bead in place you can but you’re right it will make it harder to remove next time.
@@TheCraftsmanBlog My early window fixes will definitely need a bead of caulk to paint up nicely but with the help of your video, my recent window repairs are much, much cleaner. That 5 in 1 tool works wonders!
Glad to hear it!
Thanks again for these awesome videos. I had a quick question - I'm installing new parting beads (the old ones caked in paint snapped). I'm actually having a clear finish on the inside of the sash and painting it white on the exterior. Should the parting bead be sealed with polyurethane? Oil? Or just left as is? Also the side panels (which cover the cords and weights) - should they be bare wood or painted? Thanks again!
It depends what was originally there. In some regions the jambs were left bare whereas down here in Florida they were almost always painted. If the interior of the sash is going to be varnished then I would also varnish the part of the parting bead that shows inside. But paint the exterior portion.
How can you tell if the top window was made to open on old double hung windows? I recently purchased a house built in 1920 and would love to have my original poured glass windows open from the top.
@6:59 Can you explain more that part please : if we have a smaller window than 36" i must add...?
I've done a few of these windows on my 1902 Victorian. What I find the biggest pain in the #@# is the blown in insulation inside the weight cavities. Any recommendations on how to remove that hindrance would be very welcome!
Usually just a shop vac to clear it out. Always annoying when they cram the pockets full of any kind of insulation.
Yep! I spent so much time carving that junk out of four double-hung windows to get to the weights and they were painted shut. :(
Hey, Scott. I've done a lot of that work and you've done a good job of both explaining and recording. The back light issue is challenging - I know. This is well done and informative. I need to try recording removal again. I now have a good camera man so we'll see what happens. I need to help my clients understand how easy it is to swap out sash. We're now making a replacement sash system with a .21 U factor, 50 year warranty pine (even unpainted) historic profiles, perfect balance and muntins that you can't tell are not TDL. They slip right into the existing jamb with integral weather-stripping. Let's stay in touch.
I am wondering if the (Old Windows in Depth) book includes anything about building new sashes to include double pane glass???
It does not
Great video. Now please come and do my old stuck windows!
Are you in Florida?
@The Craftsman Blog I’m in gay land
Amazing video.
Why do you leave the pulleys in if they're press fit? Is that because it's hard to get that nice fit again? Also, is there anything you recommend to clean up and then lubricate painted and gummed up old pulleys?
When you pull out the press for pulleys you usually tear up the jambs and pulleys so it’s best to leave well enough alone.
My house is 1947 and my windows are shorter, I'm wondering if the weights fall below the window
What gauge is the nailer you used to replace the stops? Mine is 16GA and I'm a little nervous it will split them, should I go for an 18 or 23?
18 ga works best
@@TheCraftsmanBlog Thank you! By the way, how did you remove the existing nails from the stops before reinstalling them? Or did you just slot them into the existing holes they came from?
wait a minute! i thought the stool was a shelf (horizontal flat piece of wood, metal, etc.) that you attach to the part of the sill on the inside of the window. are you saying the stool is actually the inner part of the sill and not the attached shelf?
Can you use the existing ropes on the weights rather than replacing them with new ropes?
You can if they are in good shape still.
I enjoyed watching this and I don't even have these windows! My originals were unfortunately removed by the previous owner 😒
Do they all have 2 sets of pulleys???
You had me at Rumber Lough.
Lol!