Local auto shop wants $276-$350 to do the diffs and T-case on my wife's 2006 4runner. The Toyota dealership wants $3.6 million to do it so I figured I'd give it a try myself after watching some UA-cam videos. Thanks for your video. Very detailed and shows every step of the way. Im handy in the garage but never done my own driveline service. I feel more confident doing this myself thanks to your video. Thanks.
Dude... I've been having that full-lock grinding noise on my Land Cruiser 120 for ages now. Replaced bunch of stuff up front, and it was always there. And as I just learned to live with it, and there it is, I see the reason it's doing it in your awesome vids! And talk about an easy fix too. Thanks Eric, you're the best!
Great Vid... good tips. FYI... Re: differentials, transfer case vents. Especially the rear diff, is located on top of the axle housing and on older vehicles are typically rusted and full of dirt -- therefore not functioning. If the valve is not free the housing will build up pressure at high speeds and can cause axle seal leaks. These breathe only in one direction to keep water out. On the 4runner gen 4's if the caps spin are likely good. If not, definitely bad. The front diff and transfer case vents are located together up near the battery under the hood very easy to service. All are very inexpensive from dealer. The rear could be modified and moved to a higher location with some easy mods. I recently replaced there rear on a friends 2007 which was frozen shut. Rear seal was leaking fairly heavily. Once replaced - no leak.
awesome video.... very informative. every time I watch your videos it motivates me to go out and service my vehicles my self instead of taking it to a dealer or a shop where they will charge you an arm and a leg to perform a simple task. thank you Eric The Car Guy
Thought the thump was my calipers, replaced entire braking system with power stop brakes, thump was still there! My girlfriend watched your video, we went and bought a grease gun. $20 and 20 mins later our problem was solved!!! Thanks a lot keep making great videos!
OK lets be realistic. How often do you drive at full lock and for how long? That said how long do you think it would take under those conditions to wear out that boss?
Awesome video! Thanks man! I miss my 3rd gen but videos like this make me feel at ease about maintaining my "new" 4th gen. Wish they were as simple as the classics but it is what it is
Eric, those skid plates / splash shields serve another purpose as well. They modify the aerodynamics of the underside, reducing drag and improving MPG by up to 5% in some vehicles. You also don't want water on your electronics and reduced road noise is a plus.
Eric , Your channel is one of the best on you tube for automotive information. Great job young man! I have watched many of your videos over the years! I would like to give you one bit of advice on your presentation, please add more light, a simple flood light would work, this would be to inccreasing understanding. For example, you do an excellent job of explaining the placement of the jackstands on the rear, but it is difficult to see exactly what you were doing. I increased the brightness on my screen thinking it was me, however increasing the light will take all the guesswork out of your descriptions. Your ability to tell the “why” is excellent, to get to the next level simply add more light. A handheld LED light or flood with a “white light “bulb will illuminate your frames and give you an outstanding illustration. I realize it involves adding another line in hour way and so if you have a rechargeable hand held light it would help. It is difficult to shoot video while juggling the tools into their proper location, however, this is an easy fix. As a videographer the two common items are light and viewpoint, closeup vesus wide shot, but thats another matter! I look forward to viewing more of your work. My intent is to support your channel and also assist you with constructive analysis that elevates your production. Keep up the good work! Breck
In case anyone needs to know what "tight" means for each plug; Front Differential: fill & drain 29pf/39Nm Rear Differential: fill & drain 36pf/48Nm Transfer Case: fill & drain 27pf/37Nm Engine oil drain: 30pf/41Nm
Not only is this channel educational but with innuendos such as "lubricating our drive shafts" i find myself puzzled as to why you do not have more subs......keep up the great work eric and as always i look forward to the next one!!
awesome video! I luv how ur vids shows alot of close ups on the parts and vehicle...think it's a tremendous help...n ur commentary is always good. keep up the good work!
That style of plug on the front differential has a nasty habit of getting stuck. They are not nearly as tight as they seem to be they are just stuck. A firm tap on the face of the plug with a hammer will do wonders to help break them loose, just be sure to hit it square on the face or you can damage the plug. This can save a ton of frustration caused by stripping these plugs but it only works on that specific style of plug it won't work on the ones on the t-case/rear different or pipe plugs.
After get my driveline services at Toyota thinking it was a bit difficult and plus didn't have all the tools but it was piece of cake. Thanks for posting. I'm going to invest in what I need and do it all my self. Including the oil change as well probably. Thanks again!!!
FYI, I find it good practice on vehicles that have been neglected when it comes to fluid changes to flush them also. Before replacing the drain plugs I would pore in a quart of new and let it drain. this helps push out all of the old stuff and any contaminates that remain in the bottom. If your concerned about cost just use the cheap stuff to flush with then replace with your high grade fluids.
this was a real pain in the butt when I was filling gear oil for a friends vehicle.i rig up a long hose and it took awhile,but it worked.i like your methed better.great video dude.
Just a heads up for anyone watching: According to Toyota assembly specs, the U-joints require your standard multipurpose lithium-based NGLI grease; but the slip joints require Molybdenum Disulphate blended lithium grease due to the increased metal-on-metal contact. The Moly-blend lithium grease is very easy to find at almost any auto parts store for about $5 a tube from Valvoline or similar. You will probably NEVER notice a difference in 99% of applications, but this is just what Toyota used at the factory in Tahara for 4th gen 4Runners.
Thanks for the video Eric. I have 2WD 2005 4runner and am in Bahamas. I did the read differential myself 2 years ago. Simple ABC. I do O+F every 4000. Cheers!
I wrap my plugs with Teflon tape before re-installing. I believe this helps keep them from seizing up and makes them easier to break loose the next time. Also, helps keep them from leaking. I've never replaced a crush washer and have never had a problem. And, I keep vehicles for a looooong time.
That’s the old school way. Now we have crush washers. If you replace the crush washer and properly torque the plug, Teflon tape is not needed. If you recycle the crush washer, Teflon isn’t terrible…
Do you know what is the number one cause of besrings failure? It's improper lubrication (over-lubrication ). Manh people like to oump grease until they can see it coming of the seals. This ruins seals and they can no longer protect the bearing. Dust and dirt will get in and ruin the bearing in no time. Usually one shot of grease once a gear is enough, providing that the bearing already has some grease in it and you are using a correct type of grease compatible with the grease already in the bearing.
eric if you take that same coolant botle and drill one hole in th cap and one in the back you can put a hose in the cap and run a air nozzle to other makes filling things like diffs so much easier
Eric, I would recommend cleaning the grease fittings before applying the grease to minimize the risk of pumping sand and grits in, possibly wearing the bits out prematurely.
I freaking hate the allen screws. They always get rounded out. Don't know who thought putting those anywhere near the rust was a good idea... ["pro"-TIP] xD Just a small tip for you guys that will be doing this oil change. If you take a bottle and drop the hose right down to the bottom of the bottle (imagine Eric's home made brake bleed kit he has) and seal it around the hose at the cap, so its sealed tight, "water tight" so to speak. You'll be able to squeeze the bottle in any position you want, even below the differential or transmission or whatever else, and the oil will be coming out of the hose normally and going into the differential just like that pump Eric has shown in this video. And it will be free too. :) Just thought I'd throw this out there for anyone that doesn't feel like messing with the bottle or buying that little pump. It's a simple use of science really. :3 I have no idea why oil companies don't make those sort of bottles for transmission and differential oils off the bat. It wouldn't make the bottle that much more expensive really. You'd just slip your own hose on the cap and off you'd go.
hey eric, im not sure if youve tried this, but what i like to do for changing oils (engine, transmission, diff, etc) is break the filler (as youve said), but then i take out the drain plug first, then the fill. it tends to make less of a mess, as the fluid comes out slower, you have time to get your hands/tools out of the way, adjust the catch pan, then when you take out the fill plug, it speeds up. let me know what you think
loving your show here in England . different types of cars but similar premise. very helpful thanks ETC. BEEN STRUGGLING With a Peugeot 207 rear discs ...with bearings . the handbrake was a pig . thanks again . THE CRAP. ACRONYM IS SO TRUE .
Awesome content! Very informative and you thought me a lot. Now is just need to do it myself since I have never changed the any of the fluids in the undercarriage of my 4Runner, since I both it 12 years ago.
Hi Eric. I enjoyed your video. I have an FJ cruiser and since they are very similar to 4runners, I felt like letting you know that the grease(s) used should have been of NLGI 2 and there are two different greass kind. One is lithium based and the other one is Molidium based. Anyway, I always enjoy your videos and learn a thing or two ( like the pump in this one).
Definitely check service manuals about fill level. My Dana rear end required me to measure the fill level to 5/8" below the fill hole. Most rear ends just require you to fill until it spills, but not always.
Single best think I learned working at a quick lube, was fill plug first, then drain. I also dislike the hex key plugs, as I find the square ratchet receiving plugs less prone to stripping.
Excellent video i am doing my moms 03 4-runner and my 09 Tacoma for the winter. Just a respectful question. How bout spraying the rusted plugs with PB Blaster before breaking? Thats what i am doing anyway. Regards, Joe
I haven't read any previous posts, so if I am reiterating someone else's comments, please forgive me. Your comments at 20:28 and past about limited slip differentials is incorrect. What you are talking about is a true posi traction differential which is very rare in this day and age (except for the high end sports cars and off road trucks). A limited slip will act as an open diff until one tire is spinned faster than the other which then locks the carrier and makes it "locked".
I've said it on other videos where the vehicle is jacked by the differential--use a magnet and check if it is steel first! If it's aluminum you can seriously deform the differential housing.
Hey Eric I saw in the "exit strategy" video you sais you didn't want to get your bachelors in order to teach, but honestly I think you should reconsider. I went to a vocational school for an auto tech certificate and I think you would make a fantastic teacher. I feel as though if I had a teacher like you I would have gotten so much more out of the program. Anyway just thought I should voice my opinion. Keep doing what you're doing hope you get a chance to read this!
The point of taking the Fill out first is 2fold. Lets more air in to help draining, also if the drain plug breaks or is seized, you didn't drain fluid that you now cant replace.
Great tips, very well explained very clear. I learned a few things and I have been doing this kind of work on my own cars for a few years. This 4Runner is a serious vehicle that needs a lot of maintenance, I bet people neglect the heck out of them.
Love your videos Eric and surprised to see you respond here. That said oudijzergek is correct and putting grease on these will attract grit which can give you a gritty grinding sound as grit gets smashed between them. If steering stops are making noise at full lock it's usually because they have become misaligned for some reason in my experience.
On the first differential with the amount of rust present, I would have started out by liberally applying some PB Blaster to each of the plugs and then followed Eric's lead...
You should note that you should grease the u-joins until there's grease coming out of every cap joint. If you don't one set of needle bearings will fail while the others wont, very common on semi's
Regarding the slip joints on the front and rear driveshafts--- I've always watched the slip joint as I pumped it up with grease. Once I see it move, then I know it's full, so I stop pumping the grease gun. From what I've been told, if someone does overfill it, the excess grease will be forced out of the seal as the vehicle is driven.
Just FYI, you really should "purge" the u-joints completely to get the old grease out. Then clean the u-joint so the old grease doesn't sling everywhere when you drive it. Actually, if you have never greased those joints, you should ideally re-purge it after a week to make sure all the grit is out of the u-joint.
I had a fluid pump setup similar to the one used in the video ,my hose was shorter and as luck would have it it came off the pump and was lost in the front differential . I managed to get out out from the drain hole with a welding rod ,but took almost 2 hours.
Eric, you need to invest in a Motive Products Power 1 gallon Fill. Makes this kinda stuff super easy. I got mine on sale for 59.99 and free shipping (they sell them at a lot of different places online so don't pay the 90 bucks from the manufacturer). I got a 300zx and filling the manual transmission or the diff is a horrible pain because of the angles and no room which made me invest in this sucker. And in my case I did a couple of fluid changes for friends to pay for it ;)
I have a 4 Runner with 210 K miles and LOVE it!! Now, as far as further service, should I just go back to, say, the 25 K, 100K, et cetc? I do the timing belt and wate rpump every 90 k, and oil changes..
I learned with honda B and Dseries and prob H and F series trans missions if u cant get fill undone u can fill it back up by taking the speed sensor out and filling it through there u just gotta b exact with filling it back up i know B series trans hold like 2.3 qts
Eric Iove your videos, I can't begin to tell you how much money I have saved myself and my mother in law by learning to do things like this through your videos. My automotive teacher also likes your videos we watch them all the time! Keep up the good work, and if you could give a shout out to Mira Costa College on one of your next videos that would be great. Thank You.
Very informative video! Eric! Im looking to buy a 2007 4runner sr5 4wd. Its 168,000 miles and it $9,000. I think a little overpriced at the dealer. About how much would it cost to have the driveline completely serviced like you've done here and how much for the transmission flush and new filter like you've done in your other video? Or, can anyone else please amswer the question? Thanks guys!!
Hear is an idea: My front diff drain plug has been severely stripped by the previous owner. The last few gear oil changes I just ran the plastic suction tube through the fill hole to the inside bottom of the diff. Pumped out most of the gear oil and refilled. Works for now.
Eric, can you do a video about changing turn signal fluid? I know some people that need help with that. And don't forget about topping off the radio fluid. Sometimes that gets low. ;)
i rember doing that on a old 1984 toyota truck. had a plug i rember on front diff (was akward location too, 1 tube grease per side. and u had tired arms. and it was a hard to get to spot. and trans fil plug was seized so had to fill via a sender for neatural or reverse. and u needed vice grips to lock front div when cold.
Typically not. The drain and fill plugs are usually fairly large, and finding a bolt of that diameter with the correct thread pitch can be next to impossible. Since differentials and transfer cases don't get serviced very often, it's easier to just deal with the Allen head. Just make sure your socket is well-seated before you start twisting. :-)
I used a short plastic water bottle to fill my front diff (after cv axle replacements) fit right in the gap, put the diff oil cap on it to put fluid in. just of people don't have the pump
I have a 2007 4Runner V6 2WD which runs perfectly great except that recently when stepping on the accelerator gradually between 30 to 35 mph only, the car starts jerking 3 or 4 times then back to smooth riding. If the accelerator is pushed steady, then it is normal. I also want to say that if I step on it and take off real fast, then no problem. Have you seen this problem before? I'm being told it could be misfiring, maybe the transmission, maybe the drive shaft, maybe and maybe and no one is 100% sure. Thank you!
Local auto shop wants $276-$350 to do the diffs and T-case on my wife's 2006 4runner. The Toyota dealership wants $3.6 million to do it so I figured I'd give it a try myself after watching some UA-cam videos.
Thanks for your video. Very detailed and shows every step of the way. Im handy in the garage but never done my own driveline service. I feel more confident doing this myself thanks to your video. Thanks.
the guy made a single mistake and everyone focused on that after all the effort of sharing his knowledge. thanks for the effort eric.
This guy shows time and time again on every video I have seen that he is not fit to teach anyone how to work on their cars.
I'm a mechanic, most of his videos are spot on. Do you work on cars?
Matt Pierce What’s wrong with his video ?? Doesn’t it teach people how to work on cars ??
Vince Phan I think so too
Dude... I've been having that full-lock grinding noise on my Land Cruiser 120 for ages now. Replaced bunch of stuff up front, and it was always there.
And as I just learned to live with it, and there it is, I see the reason it's doing it in your awesome vids! And talk about an easy fix too.
Thanks Eric, you're the best!
Great Vid... good tips. FYI... Re: differentials, transfer case vents. Especially the rear diff, is located on top of the axle housing and on older vehicles are typically rusted and full of dirt -- therefore not functioning. If the valve is not free the housing will build up pressure at high speeds and can cause axle seal leaks. These breathe only in one direction to keep water out. On the 4runner gen 4's if the caps spin are likely good. If not, definitely bad. The front diff and transfer case vents are located together up near the battery under the hood very easy to service. All are very inexpensive from dealer. The rear could be modified and moved to a higher location with some easy mods. I recently replaced there rear on a friends 2007 which was frozen shut. Rear seal was leaking fairly heavily. Once replaced - no leak.
awesome video.... very informative. every time I watch your videos it motivates me to go out and service my vehicles my self instead of taking it to a dealer or a shop where they will charge you an arm and a leg to perform a simple task. thank you Eric The Car Guy
Those are actually locking hubs which are different than limited slip.
Thought the thump was my calipers, replaced entire braking system with power stop brakes, thump was still there! My girlfriend watched your video, we went and bought a grease gun. $20 and 20 mins later our problem was solved!!! Thanks a lot keep making great videos!
That's a good point. Thanks for the suggestion.
OK lets be realistic. How often do you drive at full lock and for how long? That said how long do you think it would take under those conditions to wear out that boss?
Awesome video! Thanks man! I miss my 3rd gen but videos like this make me feel at ease about maintaining my "new" 4th gen. Wish they were as simple as the classics but it is what it is
Eric, those skid plates / splash shields serve another purpose as well. They modify the aerodynamics of the underside, reducing drag and improving MPG by up to 5% in some vehicles.
You also don't want water on your electronics and reduced road noise is a plus.
Eric , Your channel is one of the best on you tube for automotive information. Great job young man! I have watched many of your videos over the years! I would like to give you one bit of advice on your presentation, please add more light, a simple flood light would work, this would be to inccreasing understanding. For example, you do an excellent job of explaining the placement of the jackstands on the rear, but it is difficult to see exactly what you were doing. I increased the brightness on my screen thinking it was me, however increasing the light will take all the guesswork out of your descriptions. Your ability to tell the “why” is excellent, to get to the next level simply add more light. A handheld LED light or flood with a “white light “bulb will illuminate your frames and give you an outstanding illustration. I realize it involves adding another line in hour way and so if you have a rechargeable hand held light it would help.
It is difficult to shoot video while juggling the tools into their proper location, however, this is an easy fix. As a videographer the two common items are light and viewpoint, closeup vesus wide shot, but thats another matter! I look forward to viewing more of your work. My intent is to support your channel and also assist you with constructive analysis that elevates your production. Keep up the good work! Breck
In case anyone needs to know what "tight" means for each plug;
Front Differential: fill & drain 29pf/39Nm
Rear Differential: fill & drain 36pf/48Nm
Transfer Case: fill & drain 27pf/37Nm
Engine oil drain: 30pf/41Nm
This is a great tutorial simply for jacking up a 4runner! Couldn’t find anything better on UA-cam.
I agree.
Not quite but thanks for your comment.
That's a great suggestion, thanks.
Not only is this channel educational but with innuendos such as "lubricating our drive shafts" i find myself puzzled as to why you do not have more subs......keep up the great work eric and as always i look forward to the next one!!
2004 4Runner V8, thanks for the cool vids Eric
awesome video! I luv how ur vids shows alot of close ups on the parts and vehicle...think it's a tremendous help...n ur commentary is always good. keep up the good work!
That style of plug on the front differential has a nasty habit of getting stuck. They are not nearly as tight as they seem to be they are just stuck. A firm tap on the face of the plug with a hammer will do wonders to help break them loose, just be sure to hit it square on the face or you can damage the plug. This can save a ton of frustration caused by stripping these plugs but it only works on that specific style of plug it won't work on the ones on the t-case/rear different or pipe plugs.
I did exactly and the squeaking noise on the rear shaft on my 95 Tacoma is now resolved. The fuel efficiency has also improved.
After get my driveline services at Toyota thinking it was a bit difficult and plus didn't have all the tools but it was piece of cake. Thanks for posting. I'm going to invest in what I need and do it all my self. Including the oil change as well probably. Thanks again!!!
Thanks man! Did this on my 06 4runner and saved a ton of money!
This is a really great video. I wish I found it 8 years ago when you made it!
FYI, I find it good practice on vehicles that have been neglected when it comes to fluid changes to flush them also. Before replacing the drain plugs I would pore in a quart of new and let it drain. this helps push out all of the old stuff and any contaminates that remain in the bottom. If your concerned about cost just use the cheap stuff to flush with then replace with your high grade fluids.
this was a real pain in the butt when I was filling gear oil for a friends vehicle.i rig up a long hose and it took awhile,but it worked.i like your methed better.great video dude.
Just a heads up for anyone watching:
According to Toyota assembly specs, the U-joints require your standard multipurpose lithium-based NGLI grease; but the slip joints require Molybdenum Disulphate blended lithium grease due to the increased metal-on-metal contact. The Moly-blend lithium grease is very easy to find at almost any auto parts store for about $5 a tube from Valvoline or similar.
You will probably NEVER notice a difference in 99% of applications, but this is just what Toyota used at the factory in Tahara for 4th gen 4Runners.
Thanks for the video Eric. I have 2WD 2005 4runner and am in Bahamas. I did the read differential myself 2 years ago. Simple ABC. I do O+F every 4000. Cheers!
I wrap my plugs with Teflon tape before re-installing. I believe this helps keep them from seizing up and makes them easier to break loose the next time. Also, helps keep them from leaking. I've never replaced a crush washer and have never had a problem. And, I keep vehicles for a looooong time.
That’s the old school way. Now we have crush washers. If you replace the crush washer and properly torque the plug, Teflon tape is not needed. If you recycle the crush washer, Teflon isn’t terrible…
Just keep pumping until the fluid runs out of the hole.
That's what she said!
Even for the slip yoke? hhhmmmmmm..... this might turn this from a slip yoke to a hydraulic pump lol
All videos are great from Eric!
I appreciate that but ETCG provides everything I need and my class is 'global'. I also pretty much make my own hours. Why change?
Do you know what is the number one cause of besrings failure? It's improper lubrication (over-lubrication ). Manh people like to oump grease until they can see it coming of the seals. This ruins seals and they can no longer protect the bearing. Dust and dirt will get in and ruin the bearing in no time. Usually one shot of grease once a gear is enough, providing that the bearing already has some grease in it and you are using a correct type of grease compatible with the grease already in the bearing.
a good advise on the bolts for the sheilds put a dap of grease or anti seize on the bolts just to lubricate the threads
gmtgmt123 Especially on these 4Runners, the welded in nuts are known for stripping.
eric if you take that same coolant botle and drill one hole in th cap and one in the back you can put a hose in the cap and run a air nozzle to other makes filling things like diffs so much easier
Eric, I would recommend cleaning the grease fittings before applying the grease to minimize the risk of pumping sand and grits in, possibly wearing the bits out prematurely.
My 9th t4r since 84 . So reliable.
I freaking hate the allen screws. They always get rounded out. Don't know who thought putting those anywhere near the rust was a good idea...
["pro"-TIP] xD Just a small tip for you guys that will be doing this oil change. If you take a bottle and drop the hose right down to the bottom of the bottle (imagine Eric's home made brake bleed kit he has) and seal it around the hose at the cap, so its sealed tight, "water tight" so to speak. You'll be able to squeeze the bottle in any position you want, even below the differential or transmission or whatever else, and the oil will be coming out of the hose normally and going into the differential just like that pump Eric has shown in this video. And it will be free too. :)
Just thought I'd throw this out there for anyone that doesn't feel like messing with the bottle or buying that little pump. It's a simple use of science really. :3
I have no idea why oil companies don't make those sort of bottles for transmission and differential oils off the bat. It wouldn't make the bottle that much more expensive really. You'd just slip your own hose on the cap and off you'd go.
Thanks so much Eric. I did the job as you instructed and was a breeze. Looking forward to continue learning from you.
hey eric, im not sure if youve tried this, but what i like to do for changing oils (engine, transmission, diff, etc) is break the filler (as youve said), but then i take out the drain plug first, then the fill. it tends to make less of a mess, as the fluid comes out slower, you have time to get your hands/tools out of the way, adjust the catch pan, then when you take out the fill plug, it speeds up. let me know what you think
loving your show here in England . different types of cars but similar premise. very helpful thanks ETC. BEEN STRUGGLING With a Peugeot 207 rear discs ...with bearings . the handbrake was a pig . thanks again . THE CRAP. ACRONYM IS SO TRUE .
Awesome content! Very informative and you thought me a lot.
Now is just need to do it myself since I have never changed the any of the fluids in the undercarriage of my 4Runner, since I both it 12 years ago.
Hi Eric. I enjoyed your video. I have an FJ cruiser and since they are very similar to 4runners, I felt like letting you know that the grease(s) used should have been of NLGI 2 and there are two different greass kind. One is lithium based and the other one is Molidium based. Anyway, I always enjoy your videos and learn a thing or two ( like the pump in this one).
Definitely check service manuals about fill level. My Dana rear end required me to measure the fill level to 5/8" below the fill hole. Most rear ends just require you to fill until it spills, but not always.
Yep, sure did.
Do you ever feel tempted to spray rust converter on some of the parts of the frame and drivetrain that are clearly showing signs of rust?
That stuff's expensive, I try to only spray it on my balls.
lps 3 works great as well. bought my 03 t4r i Georgia so it has only seen 6 Wis. winters. A huge benefit.
You have got to love that crackling sound those U-Joints. Life's good. ;)
I just wanted to say I love your videos Eric, keep up the good work!
Single best think I learned working at a quick lube, was fill plug first, then drain. I also dislike the hex key plugs, as I find the square ratchet receiving plugs less prone to stripping.
Excellent video i am doing my moms 03 4-runner and my 09 Tacoma for the winter. Just a respectful question. How bout spraying the rusted plugs with PB Blaster before breaking? Thats what i am doing anyway. Regards, Joe
I haven't read any previous posts, so if I am reiterating someone else's comments, please forgive me. Your comments at 20:28 and past about limited slip differentials is incorrect. What you are talking about is a true posi traction differential which is very rare in this day and age (except for the high end sports cars and off road trucks). A limited slip will act as an open diff until one tire is spinned faster than the other which then locks the carrier and makes it "locked".
I've said it on other videos where the vehicle is jacked by the differential--use a magnet and check if it is steel first! If it's aluminum you can seriously deform the differential housing.
Hey Eric I saw in the "exit strategy" video you sais you didn't want to get your bachelors in order to teach, but honestly I think you should reconsider. I went to a vocational school for an auto tech certificate and I think you would make a fantastic teacher. I feel as though if I had a teacher like you I would have gotten so much more out of the program. Anyway just thought I should voice my opinion. Keep doing what you're doing hope you get a chance to read this!
The point of taking the Fill out first is 2fold. Lets more air in to help draining, also if the drain plug breaks or is seized, you didn't drain fluid that you now cant replace.
I enjoy all of your videos. Thank you for sharing you knowledge. You are the best Eric!
Nice vid! Just to note that other makes/models use ATF instead of gear oil in the transfer case.
Great tips, very well explained very clear. I learned a few things and I have been doing this kind of work on my own cars for a few years. This 4Runner is a serious vehicle that needs a lot of maintenance, I bet people neglect the heck out of them.
Thanks Eric for all of your videos, I enjoy them very much!
"might be a good time to call a friend, ask 'em how they're doing." haha. thanks for the video!
If you have abs that will be the cause, however if not then Ryan's advice is spot on :)
Thanks for removing the fill plug before the drain plug.
Definitely the locking pliers if you can get enough purchase on the fastener. Also, heat from a map or propane torch works wonders.
Love your videos Eric and surprised to see you respond here. That said oudijzergek is correct and putting grease on these will attract grit which can give you a gritty grinding sound as grit gets smashed between them. If steering stops are making noise at full lock it's usually because they have become misaligned for some reason in my experience.
Your voice is very soothing
Nice 4Runner cameraman Brian!
On the first differential with the amount of rust present, I would have started out by liberally applying some PB Blaster to each of the plugs and then followed Eric's lead...
You should note that you should grease the u-joins until there's grease coming out of every cap joint. If you don't one set of needle bearings will fail while the others wont, very common on semi's
Regarding the slip joints on the front and rear driveshafts--- I've always watched the slip joint as I pumped it up with grease. Once I see it move, then I know it's full, so I stop pumping the grease gun. From what I've been told, if someone does overfill it, the excess grease will be forced out of the seal as the vehicle is driven.
Cheers Eric it helped me a lot. Driveline service this weekend in my 4x4! Cheers mate.
good vid, do you use a 2 post lift, for auto repair.or do u prefer to use a jack and stands.
Your videos are so satisfying .
on some model you might want to chek if there is an electric limited slip differentiel. there is usually a switch on the dashbord
Eric, amazing video, very easy to understand...thanks for sharing it...
regards from Chile, South America
Thanks for the video Eric, it really helps.
thank you so much for this video, this helped me out for my FJ Cruiser.....almost identical to 4runners 👍👍👍
Just FYI, you really should "purge" the u-joints completely to get the old grease out. Then clean the u-joint so the old grease doesn't sling everywhere when you drive it. Actually, if you have never greased those joints, you should ideally re-purge it after a week to make sure all the grit is out of the u-joint.
A little fluid film on top the fastener for a few minutes helps just use some brake clean before u open it so u dont get any inside
@11:58 white pumps are available as Dressing and Ranch dispenser pump at Smart & Final .
I had a fluid pump setup similar to the one used in the video ,my hose was shorter and as luck would have it it came off the pump and was lost in the front differential . I managed to get out out from the drain hole with a welding rod ,but took almost 2 hours.
Eric, you need to invest in a Motive Products Power 1 gallon Fill. Makes this kinda stuff super easy. I got mine on sale for 59.99 and free shipping (they sell them at a lot of different places online so don't pay the 90 bucks from the manufacturer). I got a 300zx and filling the manual transmission or the diff is a horrible pain because of the angles and no room which made me invest in this sucker. And in my case I did a couple of fluid changes for friends to pay for it ;)
Best to lubricate every time you do an oil change. That includes shafts, control arms, etc. Everything on your car/truck/4x4 with grease nipple.
I have a 4 Runner with 210 K miles and LOVE it!! Now, as far as further service, should I just go back to, say, the 25 K, 100K, et cetc? I do the timing belt and wate rpump every 90 k, and oil changes..
I learned with honda B and Dseries and prob H and F series trans missions if u cant get fill undone u can fill it back up by taking the speed sensor out and filling it through there u just gotta b exact with filling it back up i know B series trans hold like 2.3 qts
Eric Iove your videos, I can't begin to tell you how much money I have saved myself and my mother in law by learning to do things like this through your videos. My automotive teacher also likes your videos we watch them all the time! Keep up the good work, and if you could give a shout out to Mira Costa College on one of your next videos that would be great. Thank You.
Very informative video! Eric! Im looking to buy a 2007 4runner sr5 4wd. Its 168,000 miles and it $9,000. I think a little overpriced at the dealer. About how much would it cost to have the driveline completely serviced like you've done here and how much for the transmission flush and new filter like you've done in your other video? Or, can anyone else please amswer the question?
Thanks guys!!
Shane h Buy one with higher mileage and save thousands.
Extremely helpful...thank you!
Hear is an idea: My front diff drain plug has been severely stripped by the previous owner. The last few gear oil changes I just ran the plastic suction tube through the fill hole to the inside bottom of the diff. Pumped out most of the gear oil and refilled. Works for now.
Eric, can you do a video about changing turn signal fluid? I know some people that need help with that. And don't forget about topping off the radio fluid. Sometimes that gets low. ;)
Mercedes actually had muffler bearings at one time. Too many things to go wrong.
i rember doing that on a old 1984 toyota truck.
had a plug i rember on front diff (was akward location too, 1 tube grease per side.
and u had tired arms. and it was a hard to get to spot.
and trans fil plug was seized so had to fill via a sender for neatural or reverse.
and u needed vice grips to lock front div when cold.
Absolutely love your videos man!
Typically not. The drain and fill plugs are usually fairly large, and finding a bolt of that diameter with the correct thread pitch can be next to impossible. Since differentials and transfer cases don't get serviced very often, it's easier to just deal with the Allen head. Just make sure your socket is well-seated before you start twisting. :-)
See the ETCG1 video 'Questions Answered May 2012'.
I used a short plastic water bottle to fill my front diff (after cv axle replacements) fit right in the gap, put the diff oil cap on it to put fluid in. just of people don't have the pump
in japan they call it the toyota hilux surf - because australia is RHD we get a few of them used from japan
I used a plastic squirt bottle with the nozzle on stream, works great and cost $1
I have a 2007 4Runner V6 2WD which runs perfectly great except that recently when stepping on the accelerator gradually between 30 to 35 mph only, the car starts jerking 3 or 4 times then back to smooth riding. If the accelerator is pushed steady, then it is normal. I also want to say that if I step on it and take off real fast, then no problem. Have you seen this problem before? I'm being told it could be misfiring, maybe the transmission, maybe the drive shaft, maybe and maybe and no one is 100% sure. Thank you!
Your videos ROCK, keep up the good work, thank you much!
Does not slip joint require special lubricant (Lithium molybdenum disulfide )?
Thanks for show us this video!
always is good to know how to learn...
have a nice day