10:30 I once had "similar" little orange electrolytic caps in an 80ies X-Calibre preamplifier. I replaced them all. I later found out that they were much better than anything else that I had on stock. Much higher q-factor, and the capacitance was closer to the specs. Then I realised that they were hermetically sealed, instead of the rubber type thing. Since then I always check every single cap before I finally replace it. The caps in the Marantz, of course, were overdue. You did a great job.
These vids are allways entertaing. I like to use PVC cleaner to scrub the board, it's the stuff the kids use on the way to school here in Mexico to get through the day.
Nice Amp And Great Job On The Recap Simon . I Replaced The Main Smoothing Caps In My A&R A60 Amp From 6,800 uf To 10,000 uf About 2 Years Ago But I Did Not Do a Full Recap ( I Have 5 Of These Amps One Of My Favs) But I Have a Couple Of Mission Cyrus 1s And a Cyrus 2 Also a Creek 4040 and a Few Nad 3020s Also a Few Nytech Amps including The CTA252 Receiver Which i Could Not Repair. Looking Forward To Your Next Video Regards Mike.
I remember Radiospares from my collage days, always a copy hanging on the wall. It was THE catalogue, apart from Henry's Radio. I would read it cover to cover and dream of the components. Kinda sad now I look back!!
Back in those days it didn’t take too long to read “cover to cover”, maybe a dozen pages or so. Not like the rain forest guzzling multiple volumes of recent times. If I dig deep enough in my attic, there might even be an issue from the 70’s... Now it’s sooo easy, pick up the tablet, and in a few minutes the components are ordered and on there way., magic.
Hi Simon. Always interesting and informative your videos. Only one suggestion would be to emphasise the importance of discharging with a resistor the main smoothing capacitor (or capacitors if the supply is plus and minus). Accepted the voltage is no where near dangerous BUT having that stored voltage and high current available while working on something when off at the mains leaves the possibility of shorting something and seriously damaging the output stage. Better safe than sorry. Keep up the good work. John.
Hola Simón! Están muy buenos los dos vídeos. Se nota que solucionaste bastante el tema de las rayas en el frente. Por encontrarme en la misma situación, es mi pregunta de como hiciste? Soy de Argentina. Me encanta ese amplificador y espero tenerlo algún día. Muchas gracias.
Simon I believe all the Capacitors should be replaced It has 5 channels and all channels produce signal lines even at the same time. Its a - COS Kikusui 6100a. it was owned by an engineer I believe he somewhat keep it up. He passed away and I obtained it about all I know about it. The Manuel is on line. Might make a good couple of videos?
Hi Simon, any reason why you uploaded your normal wide screen video within a 4 x 3 ratio? Nice amplifier sold quite a few of these in there day. Never had one fail.
Hey Simon I've got a 1030 that was parked up with blown output. I did a little troubleshooting and got preamp section working, bridge rectifier diodes blown. Can you recommend replacement?? Great video !! Inspired. Thanks.
Simon, I was going over my amplifier and I believe you installed C412 and C413 in the wrong places. My original parts are soldered over the areas labeled as resistors (R418 and R419) with C412 and C413 left empty. It seems it didn't make a real difference for your measurements but I just wanted to let you know
However, I will say that there are minor differences between your version and mine, possibly a production difference, I'm not sure, so it is possible that this is one difference
@@nimanaimi5424 Hi Nima well spotted. I only found that when I powered the amp up and it sounded thin and bass light. Glad your recapping yours too. They sound great once their done.
Never mind, I checked the beginning of your video and it seems they were installed the way you did. Weird, as those ones in mine were also ceramic caps and seemed identical to the ones on the phono stage so I would assume they were original
@@SoddingaboutSi This will be my first recapping job so I'm a little nervous to get started but I think it will be fairly easy. I keep going back and forth on replacing original non-electrolytic parts or not for the same reasons you explained in your video. I will use your video as a reference throughout the process though, so thank you.
@@dimitarkirchevdimitrov6321 Most of the small electrolytic's were. I have Nichicon 's and other good caps in stock so would have used a mixture. The lower ESR caps higher quality caps are in the audio line.
@ Simon, accidentally i bought a Marantz 1060 in bad condition but as i like challenges i want to give this 1060 a new life. As i found the board P700 with cut through wiresand messed up i hope that you can help me. It depends on the wiring from the main capacitors to the P700 board. The wiring for the small left main capacitor White + is connected with J 720 (P700 board) Green - is connected with J715 left side (P700) The middle small main cap purple + is wired with J ??? black - is wired with J??? The big main cap red + is wired with J 727 black - is wired with J ??? J726 is grounded I would appreciate if you ( or someone else) can help me to give new life to the 1060. The other boards are untouched. Thank you and best regards from Berlin Germany Oliver
@@SoddingaboutSi Hi Simon, thank you for answering. I downloaded it, but i can understand it only in fragments as i am an absolute beginner. If i would know where to connect these wires, it would help me a lot. Best regards Oliver
@@olivere.3166 OK so the output capacitors are disconnected. J715 Purple J719 Black J716 Green J720 White. Black of Main capacitor goes to chassis. The p700 should have a with to chassis from J725. That's what the manual says anyway. ! srspiers@gmail.com
Couldn't you put a thermistor in to stop the rush of current and protect the circuitry? Can't remember is it HT electrolytics that are used in the sound stage on amplifier not sure what the benefit is of them paired to normal electrolytics?
I've got a leak TL12 needs looking at but I want to keep the original metal film capacitors if possible they're very important decoupling stage. Do you have a valve tester Where abouts are you! I'm in the South East.
@@and1424 The only cap that was raised in value was the main electrolytic. I did raise the value of some of the audio couplers bit they were all polyester.
@@SoddingaboutSi No. There is one in a screw in fuse holder right next to where the plug wire enters the rear panel. That's the only one. I lost right channel output on mine. And was looking for repair viddys when I came across your posting. It has helped me. And like yours. Someone before me has been in this one as well.
A 1060 120v unit was plugged into 220v mains ? the amp does not work any more but pre amp is still very good....? can you tell mew what may have gone ? i will replace evrything but can you give me a run down of damage that may have happened with the wrong voltage plugged in ? thx...
10:30 I once had "similar" little orange electrolytic caps in an 80ies X-Calibre preamplifier. I replaced them all. I later found out that they were much better than anything else that I had on stock. Much higher q-factor, and the capacitance was closer to the specs. Then I realised that they were hermetically sealed, instead of the rubber type thing. Since then I always check every single cap before I finally replace it. The caps in the Marantz, of course, were overdue. You did a great job.
3:16 EPCOS and KEMET, a perfect replacement
great video, as always
These vids are allways entertaing. I like to use PVC cleaner to scrub the board, it's the stuff the kids use on the way to school here in Mexico to get through the day.
That's funny and sad at the same time!
This video is great! Thanks for sharing.
Nice Amp And Great Job On The Recap Simon . I Replaced The Main Smoothing Caps In My A&R A60 Amp From 6,800 uf To 10,000 uf About 2 Years Ago But I Did Not Do a Full Recap ( I Have 5 Of These Amps One Of My Favs) But I Have a Couple Of Mission Cyrus 1s And a Cyrus 2 Also a Creek 4040 and a Few Nad 3020s Also a Few Nytech Amps including The CTA252 Receiver Which i Could Not Repair. Looking Forward To Your Next Video Regards Mike.
Haha Radiospares, that takes me back a few years... My first contact with them was 1970 when I started my apprenticeship.
I remember Radiospares from my collage days, always a copy hanging on the wall. It was THE catalogue, apart from Henry's Radio. I would read it cover to cover and dream of the components. Kinda sad now I look back!!
Back in those days it didn’t take too long to read “cover to cover”, maybe a dozen pages or so. Not like the rain forest guzzling multiple volumes of recent times. If I dig deep enough in my attic, there might even be an issue from the 70’s... Now it’s sooo easy, pick up the tablet, and in a few minutes the components are ordered and on there way., magic.
Hi Simon. Always interesting and informative your videos. Only one suggestion would be to emphasise the importance of discharging with a resistor the main smoothing capacitor (or capacitors if the supply is plus and minus). Accepted the voltage is no where near dangerous BUT having that stored voltage and high current available while working on something when off at the mains leaves the possibility of shorting something and seriously damaging the output stage. Better safe than sorry. Keep up the good work. John.
Good point!
Fascinating Simon. Thank you.
Hola Simón! Están muy buenos los dos vídeos. Se nota que solucionaste bastante el tema de las rayas en el frente. Por encontrarme en la misma situación, es mi pregunta de como hiciste? Soy de Argentina. Me encanta ese amplificador y espero tenerlo algún día. Muchas gracias.
These purple caps are not Mitsubishi, they are Matsushita. Notice the triangular logo. They can be found in Matsushita brands Technics and Panasonic.
+1959Berre Cheers.
So, you got a Technics mug! I envy you! Been a Technics fan all my life.
You can get them on Ebay. Mine has a big chip in it now so might replace it,
good radio!
nice work :D
Simon I believe all the Capacitors should be replaced It has 5 channels and all channels produce signal lines even at the same time. Its a - COS Kikusui 6100a. it was owned by an engineer I believe he somewhat keep it up. He passed away and I obtained it about all I know about it. The Manuel is on line. Might make a good couple of videos?
Hi Simon, any reason why you uploaded your normal wide screen video within a 4 x 3 ratio? Nice amplifier sold quite a few of these in there day. Never had one fail.
Cleaning modern electronic gizmos with tap water causes problems rapidly. Isn't that a problem with older electronics also?
If you know the Uridium 2 title tune, chances are you had an Amiga in 1993, rather than a computer in the 80s ;)
Hey Simon I've got a 1030 that was parked up with blown output. I did a little troubleshooting and got preamp section working, bridge rectifier diodes blown. Can you recommend replacement?? Great video !! Inspired. Thanks.
Is it the 3 leg type?
i have one of these with a dead right channel (no sound) any idea what might be wrong? it works perfectly apart from that 🤷♂️
Could be a number of things. It would need diagnosis.
Simon, I was going over my amplifier and I believe you installed C412 and C413 in the wrong places. My original parts are soldered over the areas labeled as resistors (R418 and R419) with C412 and C413 left empty. It seems it didn't make a real difference for your measurements but I just wanted to let you know
However, I will say that there are minor differences between your version and mine, possibly a production difference, I'm not sure, so it is possible that this is one difference
@@nimanaimi5424 Hi Nima well spotted. I only found that when I powered the amp up and it sounded thin and bass light. Glad your recapping yours too. They sound great once their done.
Never mind, I checked the beginning of your video and it seems they were installed the way you did. Weird, as those ones in mine were also ceramic caps and seemed identical to the ones on the phono stage so I would assume they were original
@@SoddingaboutSi This will be my first recapping job so I'm a little nervous to get started but I think it will be fairly easy. I keep going back and forth on replacing original non-electrolytic parts or not for the same reasons you explained in your video. I will use your video as a reference throughout the process though, so thank you.
Great video mate👍 What electronic capacitors did you used?
Panasonic mainly.
@@SoddingaboutSiPanasonic FC I guess
@@dimitarkirchevdimitrov6321 Most of the small electrolytic's were. I have Nichicon 's and other good caps in stock so would have used a mixture. The lower ESR caps higher quality caps are in the audio line.
@ Simon,
accidentally i bought a Marantz 1060 in bad condition but as i like challenges i want to give this 1060 a new life.
As i found the board P700 with cut through wiresand messed up i hope that you can help me.
It depends on the wiring from the main capacitors to the P700 board.
The wiring for the small left main capacitor
White + is connected with J 720 (P700 board)
Green - is connected with J715 left side (P700)
The middle small main cap
purple + is wired with J ???
black - is wired with J???
The big main cap
red + is wired with J 727
black - is wired with J ???
J726 is grounded
I would appreciate if you ( or someone else) can help me to give new life to the 1060.
The other boards are untouched.
Thank you and best regards from Berlin Germany
Oliver
Oliver download the service manual for the 1060 it shows a clear layout of the power amp board. If that's no help contact me again.
@@SoddingaboutSi
Hi Simon, thank you for answering.
I downloaded it, but i can understand it only in fragments as i am an absolute beginner.
If i would know where to connect these wires, it would help me a lot.
Best regards
Oliver
@@olivere.3166 OK so the output capacitors are disconnected.
J715 Purple J719 Black
J716 Green J720 White.
Black of Main capacitor goes to chassis. The p700 should have a with to chassis from J725. That's what the manual says anyway. ! srspiers@gmail.com
Couldn't you put a thermistor in to stop the rush of current and protect the circuitry? Can't remember is it HT electrolytics that are used in the sound stage on amplifier not sure what the benefit is of them paired to normal electrolytics?
John sweda Yes you could. But I think as long as the switch can cope all should be ok.
I've got a leak TL12 needs looking at but I want to keep the original metal film capacitors if possible they're very important decoupling stage. Do you have a valve tester Where abouts are you! I'm in the South East.
You didn't check for THC then, do you know what it is is it better than factory or not would have been interesting to see this.
Simon, did you chose higher capacitance in power supply caps? Thanks!
Yes can''t remember the value but think it was 10,000uF. Only puts a bit more stress on the rectifier and mains switch.
@@SoddingaboutSi sorry Simon I meant the power supply board caps..thanks
@@and1424 The only cap that was raised in value was the main electrolytic. I did raise the value of some of the audio couplers bit they were all polyester.
@@SoddingaboutSi ok. thank you!
I own a 1060 and I noticed mine doesn't have those four fuses that are mounted beside the transformer. What is their purpose?
That's odd. I wonder if there mounted under the chassis? They protect the secondary of the transformer and amplifiers.
@@SoddingaboutSi No. There is one in a screw in fuse holder right next to where the plug wire enters the rear panel. That's the only one. I lost right channel output on mine. And was looking for repair viddys when I came across your posting. It has helped me. And like yours. Someone before me has been in this one as well.
That's the older first version...........
A 1060 120v unit was plugged into 220v mains ? the amp does not work any more but pre amp is still very good....? can you tell mew what may have gone ? i will replace evrything but can you give me a run down of damage that may have happened with the wrong voltage plugged in ? thx...
Is the supply to the power amp there?
@@SoddingaboutSi hello....thx...I will check, I am getting an audible hum on the speaker out, thats all, no volume control, just a hum....
@@SoddingaboutSi the pre amp out is working...
And the preamp power amp links are connected in the back?
@@SoddingaboutSi no....I dont think they ever were ?
Simon do you do any repairs on Oscilloscopes
+Gary it really depends what's wrong what scope it is and if parts are available .
+Gary Depends on what model and problem.
nice job and your speech is clearer,you tend to mumble sometimes and swallow your words, otherwise very detaied exlanation ty
Thanks , will take that on board.