Personally i see this as jack of all trades plane that everyone should have. It can get into tight corners while you can still plane normal surfaces. Also one trick to get the blade chip breaker in and out is to go from top but twist it side ways, so ether one of the edges gets in place first and then you can other side in. Not easiest thing in the world but least on my plane this was possible. Probably for mentioned reasons this is so useful for "axeman" or in English closest thing would be framer/timber framers. My father was one now retired and he gifted this as pre inheritance in... rather nasty condition since it was used on various construction sites in old wooden tool box that were popular in Finland..its already tradition that every house builder makes them selfs one when in training/trade school to hold all their beginner tools (God only knows why those were popular since those are heavy and cumbersome, though very durable and double as seat and can be locked). My father other hand inherited old trades mens tools, so its been in least 3 generations of house builders far as i know its history. Sadly due health reasons i'm not probably ever going back on that profession as a job, but it has already become useful tool since it was excellent to widen the old door frame and to wood working in general as jack(rabbet) of all trades. Its now lovingly restored to its former glory and i wont probably sell it with out very good price....1000$? Really? Well thank you for the information! I was in view it was only worth 3-4 hundred O.o Also as side note this model has two rather serious issue in its design. First is the frame. If dropped and due tresses over time hairline cracks might appear to the arch of the frame sheering it off, thankfully mine does not have that issue. In this situation i would advice welding it with suitable cast iron electrode. Second it the front knob cracking. This is known issue that might happen when too much force is applied, or again plane is dropped. Not that serious since it can easily be glued but it does damage the lacquer finish. To refinish if its the reddish color handles, you can mix urethane based lacquer with few drops of acrylic red and color match it. Color is due tinted lacquer not due wood being red. Pretty much my only gripe with this tool, other than requiring somewhat delicate use, where many other planes dont give fuck if you drop them, is the lack ability to plane the right inner corners, witch would be useful, but then again i do have Stanley rabbet plane for that job... This one i got by asking about VERY dusty tool box in one work site in industrial environment. Guy who owned it had retired and left it on the site, in the dark corner where it had sit for decade or so until i run into it and asked workers whats the deal with it. Ended up getting permission to rummage trough the box and keep what i found since that guy would not come back. Never i have felt such archeologic, specially how the dust had collected top of it. There was not much useful but the rabbet plane missing couple parts that really do not matter in my use and few chisels, but it was pretty nice experience.
Just found this video. Like many of the others who have commented, I love this plane... Except I have two of them (quite an investment). I'm passionate about traditional time framing in very large beams and posts (sometimes over half a ton each timber) in Australian Hardwoods. The joinery in my frames are very large, and the tilting handles on the 10-1\4 is the only thing keeping skin on my hands when I need to use a rabbit plane. They make finishing the joinery a joy, rather than a pain... literally
@@muellermade4857 I've a Facebook page called @wetlandscreations where there are quite a lot of photos and stories about my timber framing adventures, though I've not been very active there for about a year. I've a back log of photos for stories to be posted in the future. I've been focusing a bit on getting my video production skills up, with the plane of adding videos to my story telling, it will be worthwhile keeping an eye on the page. Regards Aidan Banfield
Hey man! Love the video about the 10-1/4, I’m an apprentice boat builder and we use rebate planes all the time so I’ve got a 10 and a 10-1/2 and fitting the irons back is way easier than you showed, my boss showed me a trick! If you have the iron and cap iron together you put one half in, down, and out the side a bit, the other half of the blade will fit down really nicely! It’s a bit finicky but you’ll get the knack!
Nice. Yeah they were very commonly used for boat building. I usually do that with the 10 or 10 and 1/2 but for some reason with the 10 and 1/4 you can't tip it in from the top.
thanks for this video, my great uncle was a carriage maker in Latvia. When he left Latvia for politicol/religous reasons and emigrated to the United States. The US had stopped using carriages for the most part, so he became a plumber. I had no idea of the tools he would have used, youhavejust enlightened me on one of his tools.
That a beautiful plane. I love old tools they are so well made, planes and hammers are my weakness. I might get a jack rabbit plane, I have seen one in a local antique shop it need restoring but it's a good price.
I wouldn't use it on a shooting board because it's a rebate plane and will plane the fence on the shooting board. Best sticking to a normal jack plane, but yes the handles on a standard jack plane would make a good shooting plane.
@@phillmuz5184 well yes, that was what I was talking about by adding a small piece of wood to the side of the plane to prevent it cutting into your shooting board
I can definitely put my iron assembly down to the frog from the top like a regular, non-crazy person. Not sure what's going on here. I just tip one side into the gap first. Requires some angling around but it's definitely easier than trying to correctly set the chipbreaker inside the damned thing. It is completely plausible that people modified them to be very slightly narrower on the cutting edge and in the waist which would accomplish 2 things: 1. setting the iron isn't a complete shitshow and 2. it drastically increases general usefulness without ruining the original purpose. I really love mine, it's my only jack plane and it's not too bad for general use. One drawback is you really do need to spend more time screwing with the iron/breaker depending on what you're doing because the open sides seem to promote chatter. One bonus is that they're heavy for their size and simply larger than most jacks so you can really make some long tough cuts with it. Pluses and minuses.
@@WoodByWright 10 1/4. I just looked at the iron too and the waist was never filed like I thought, guess I was talking out my butt about that part. Both pieces are press stamped all around. The edge is only a few thou wider than the sole so that may have been altered. Really cool tool all around, thanks for the review.
Wise Dad joke. Keep ‘me coming. Also, I had to smile when I noticed your mallet tote missing a couple of teeth in the back, I just finished making a saw tote and had to glue in a broken tooth. Nice to know it happens to others.
As others have said, a beautiful plane that you have restored so lovingly. Very conscientious of you to take the opportunity to demonstrate it to us at the same time - many thanks for that ! But how do we know that it was YOU telling dad jokes in the dark ? It could have been an impostor who broke into your shop, started telling jokes but was unable to find the light switch ? A fascinating video !
James, THAT IS THE COOLEST PLANE I'VE EVER SEEN...practical or not, before I die(hold it, you said GULP, a thousand....)OMG....and I used to think Wind River Planes were expensive. But if I ever win the lottery....rr
Cool plane. Although, I would have thought your knuckles were tough enough by now from dragging on the ground when you walk...lol. My Dad joke of the day.
I acquired a #10 today which was grimy and coated with a fair amount of oil. It has a broken handle with the horn snapped off and some previous owner had chamfered the rough edges of the break. I got lucky in that after cleaning off some of the dirt I discovered it's a sweetheart era plane & only paid $28 for it. 😀 Scraping off the lacquer from the tote I found the wood to be Brazilian rosewood, something I've not dealt with before. It feels oddly oily. Any tips on the tote repair? Will the oiliness affect glue up? Should I use epoxy or titebond? Thanks!
Usually you want to clean the surface with a bit of acetone or something similar to remove the oil and then you can use most any glue you want. But if you're worried about it, epoxy would probably be the best that I'm not by a huge margin
@@WoodByWright thanks for the advice. I ended up using epoxy to glue a new replacement piece on and it seems to be holding. Obviously could not replace with rosewood since it's not easy to get it so made do with a small piece of hardwood I had lying around. Think it might be something called Merbau...stained it to try colour match it and it seems good. Thanks again! 😀
Its easier to screw iron and chip breaker together and drop them in from the top, not individually from below. To make it happen you remove the cap iron screw to allow access.
Thanks again, bro. I appreciate everything you have done for me and I’m glad you have been able to get a few videos out of it. I think my plane is now more famous than I am. It’s been in more UA-cam videos than I have. Lol.
Hello james, thank's for your vidéo ! Tais is the only one I found for the 10 1/4!!! Do you know the "normal price " for that plane? I am in France and we can't find those at all..! I have à 10 1/2 and a 10 but not 10 1/4..! Hope to find one on eBay soon..! Thank's again ! Alex
Ouah..! Ok and do you think that a lie nilsen could be a solution ? Not the same history but good quality ! Thank's for your answer !! And I Hope to see a video this the 10 1/4!!!!! See you! Alex
Some people like to have it that way and some people like it to just be flushed with the side. If you haven't sticking out the side, you can be very sure that you won't have a step to surface. However, you may end up pushing your line farther over or getting a rough edge. If you have it flushed to the side. You have to be careful not to get a stepped surface but you won't be moving your line over farther and you won't be getting rough surface. It is 6 of 1/2 dozen or another depending upon which way you want to go.
I don't own a No. 10 1/4, but a normal rabbet plane. And also there i can set the blade tilted. You need to be careful not to damage the cutting edge, but with a little practice it works just fine. 8)
It seems so versatile while retaining the functionality that it could actually replace a standard plane for pretty much everything but shooting end grain or did i miss some key detail?
It would get really old resetting everything when you needed to do a quick tuneup on the edge of the iron. A standard plane takes just a few seconds to pop out or in.
I was going ask if it was on the right Wood by Wright channel. So now you answered that question I will ask if it comes with any fences? Or are you working with such large timbers and fences lose their usefulness. A millimetre out with a cabinet would be a disaster, but with the large timbers it won’t be noticeable. A very interesting video, and I even quite liked the dad joke.
no fences. the old timers rairly used them. just wrap your fingers around under and planr tot he line. once you do it a few times it is easy to be right on.
Daaaaa... What's up, Doc??? :-) I see ya have jack rabbits jumping about yur shop there, James. I know someone who could use one of those, ( *Wranglerstar* ) Cody. He sometimes does larger stuff, with timber framing...
Really cool plane and I could really put one of those to good use BUT the way the iron and cap have to be installed would anger me everytime I had to sharpen it. Can't have your cake and eat it too, really.
Personally i see this as jack of all trades plane that everyone should have. It can get into tight corners while you can still plane normal surfaces. Also one trick to get the blade chip breaker in and out is to go from top but twist it side ways, so ether one of the edges gets in place first and then you can other side in. Not easiest thing in the world but least on my plane this was possible.
Probably for mentioned reasons this is so useful for "axeman" or in English closest thing would be framer/timber framers. My father was one now retired and he gifted this as pre inheritance in... rather nasty condition since it was used on various construction sites in old wooden tool box that were popular in Finland..its already tradition that every house builder makes them selfs one when in training/trade school to hold all their beginner tools (God only knows why those were popular since those are heavy and cumbersome, though very durable and double as seat and can be locked).
My father other hand inherited old trades mens tools, so its been in least 3 generations of house builders far as i know its history. Sadly due health reasons i'm not probably ever going back on that profession as a job, but it has already become useful tool since it was excellent to widen the old door frame and to wood working in general as jack(rabbet) of all trades. Its now lovingly restored to its former glory and i wont probably sell it with out very good price....1000$? Really? Well thank you for the information! I was in view it was only worth 3-4 hundred O.o
Also as side note this model has two rather serious issue in its design. First is the frame. If dropped and due tresses over time hairline cracks might appear to the arch of the frame sheering it off, thankfully mine does not have that issue. In this situation i would advice welding it with suitable cast iron electrode. Second it the front knob cracking. This is known issue that might happen when too much force is applied, or again plane is dropped. Not that serious since it can easily be glued but it does damage the lacquer finish. To refinish if its the reddish color handles, you can mix urethane based lacquer with few drops of acrylic red and color match it. Color is due tinted lacquer not due wood being red.
Pretty much my only gripe with this tool, other than requiring somewhat delicate use, where many other planes dont give fuck if you drop them, is the lack ability to plane the right inner corners, witch would be useful, but then again i do have Stanley rabbet plane for that job... This one i got by asking about VERY dusty tool box in one work site in industrial environment. Guy who owned it had retired and left it on the site, in the dark corner where it had sit for decade or so until i run into it and asked workers whats the deal with it. Ended up getting permission to rummage trough the box and keep what i found since that guy would not come back. Never i have felt such archeologic, specially how the dust had collected top of it. There was not much useful but the rabbet plane missing couple parts that really do not matter in my use and few chisels, but it was pretty nice experience.
Just found this video. Like many of the others who have commented, I love this plane... Except I have two of them (quite an investment). I'm passionate about traditional time framing in very large beams and posts (sometimes over half a ton each timber) in Australian Hardwoods. The joinery in my frames are very large, and the tilting handles on the 10-1\4 is the only thing keeping skin on my hands when I need to use a rabbit plane. They make finishing the joinery a joy, rather than a pain... literally
The perfict plane for the job!
do you have any pics on line of you work? fellow ozzie like to see some timber framing in local timber
@@muellermade4857 I've a Facebook page called @wetlandscreations where there are quite a lot of photos and stories about my timber framing adventures, though I've not been very active there for about a year. I've a back log of photos for stories to be posted in the future. I've been focusing a bit on getting my video production skills up, with the plane of adding videos to my story telling, it will be worthwhile keeping an eye on the page. Regards Aidan Banfield
Hey man! Love the video about the 10-1/4, I’m an apprentice boat builder and we use rebate planes all the time so I’ve got a 10 and a 10-1/2 and fitting the irons back is way easier than you showed, my boss showed me a trick! If you have the iron and cap iron together you put one half in, down, and out the side a bit, the other half of the blade will fit down really nicely! It’s a bit finicky but you’ll get the knack!
Nice. Yeah they were very commonly used for boat building. I usually do that with the 10 or 10 and 1/2 but for some reason with the 10 and 1/4 you can't tip it in from the top.
thanks for this video, my great uncle was a carriage maker in Latvia. When he left Latvia for politicol/religous reasons and emigrated to the United States. The US had stopped using carriages for the most part, so he became a plumber. I had no idea of the tools he would have used, youhavejust enlightened me on one of his tools.
thanks glad I could help out some. they were often half way between a cabinet maker and a cooper. so some of both!
That a beautiful plane. I love old tools they are so well made, planes and hammers are my weakness. I might get a jack rabbit plane, I have seen one in a local antique shop it need restoring but it's a good price.
Never actually seen one of these planes in person... interesting idea..
I use my 10 &1/2 as a shoulder plane, rebate plane. It's just cool. I'll swap you if you don't have a use for the 10&1/4. 🤣
Very cool plane! Great looking tote and knob!
Thanks David!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge James, that was a fun lesson.
my pleasure!
With the handles it would also make a good shooting plane, you just have to add a small piece of wood to the side to prevent it cutting the rail
it would!
I wouldn't use it on a shooting board because it's a rebate plane and will plane the fence on the shooting board. Best sticking to a normal jack plane, but yes the handles on a standard jack plane would make a good shooting plane.
@@phillmuz5184 well yes, that was what I was talking about by adding a small piece of wood to the side of the plane to prevent it cutting into your shooting board
I suppose I'm just lazy and would just be easier to grab the Jack plane lol.
@@phillmuz5184 agreed ;)
I can definitely put my iron assembly down to the frog from the top like a regular, non-crazy person. Not sure what's going on here. I just tip one side into the gap first. Requires some angling around but it's definitely easier than trying to correctly set the chipbreaker inside the damned thing. It is completely plausible that people modified them to be very slightly narrower on the cutting edge and in the waist which would accomplish 2 things: 1. setting the iron isn't a complete shitshow and 2. it drastically increases general usefulness without ruining the original purpose.
I really love mine, it's my only jack plane and it's not too bad for general use. One drawback is you really do need to spend more time screwing with the iron/breaker depending on what you're doing because the open sides seem to promote chatter. One bonus is that they're heavy for their size and simply larger than most jacks so you can really make some long tough cuts with it. Pluses and minuses.
do you have a 10, 10 1/5 or a 10 1/4"
@@WoodByWright 10 1/4. I just looked at the iron too and the waist was never filed like I thought, guess I was talking out my butt about that part. Both pieces are press stamped all around. The edge is only a few thou wider than the sole so that may have been altered. Really cool tool all around, thanks for the review.
Wise Dad joke. Keep ‘me coming. Also, I had to smile when I noticed your mallet tote missing a couple of teeth in the back, I just finished making a saw tote and had to glue in a broken tooth. Nice to know it happens to others.
Thank you Sir.
As others have said, a beautiful plane that you have restored so lovingly. Very conscientious of you to take the opportunity to demonstrate it to us at the same time - many thanks for that ! But how do we know that it was YOU telling dad jokes in the dark ? It could have been an impostor who broke into your shop, started telling jokes but was unable to find the light switch ? A fascinating video !
LOL you got me! it was my wife!
@@WoodByWright Your wife has a lovely sense of humour ! She probably needs to have one, to fully appreciate your good self !
I remember seeing one kept in it's own box at the old Templeton Carriage Works. Wondered why.
LOL sounds about right!
James, THAT IS THE COOLEST PLANE I'VE EVER SEEN...practical or not, before I die(hold it, you said GULP, a thousand....)OMG....and I used to think Wind River Planes were expensive. But if I ever win the lottery....rr
LOL I know right!
Thanks for sharing that, well said
Cool plane. Although, I would have thought your knuckles were tough enough by now from dragging on the ground when you walk...lol. My Dad joke of the day.
LOL nice Jim!
Pretty cool
O , good to know abut this plane 🤔.
I acquired a #10 today which was grimy and coated with a fair amount of oil. It has a broken handle with the horn snapped off and some previous owner had chamfered the rough edges of the break.
I got lucky in that after cleaning off some of the dirt I discovered it's a sweetheart era plane & only paid $28 for it. 😀
Scraping off the lacquer from the tote I found the wood to be Brazilian rosewood, something I've not dealt with before. It feels oddly oily.
Any tips on the tote repair? Will the oiliness affect glue up? Should I use epoxy or titebond?
Thanks!
Usually you want to clean the surface with a bit of acetone or something similar to remove the oil and then you can use most any glue you want. But if you're worried about it, epoxy would probably be the best that I'm not by a huge margin
@@WoodByWright thanks for the advice. I ended up using epoxy to glue a new replacement piece on and it seems to be holding. Obviously could not replace with rosewood since it's not easy to get it so made do with a small piece of hardwood I had lying around. Think it might be something called Merbau...stained it to try colour match it and it seems good.
Thanks again! 😀
Its easier to screw iron and chip breaker together and drop them in from the top, not individually from below. To make it happen you remove the cap iron screw to allow access.
I do that on most but that will not work on this one. Just will not fit.
Thanks again, bro. I appreciate everything you have done for me and I’m glad you have been able to get a few videos out of it. I think my plane is now more famous than I am. It’s been in more UA-cam videos than I have. Lol.
lol It has one more on Saturday. I should be getting it in the mail tomorrow!
Wood By Wright thanks again James.
Gracias por tus videos
Excellent t video. I learnt a lot and so thanks for that. Best wishes
thansk Mark!
Love these videos teaching us about all the different hand planes...Thanks James....rr Normandy, France
thanks Richard!
Thanks for the info James! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
thanks Fred!
Hello james, thank's for your vidéo ! Tais is the only one I found for the 10 1/4!!! Do you know the "normal price " for that plane? I am in France and we can't find those at all..!
I have à 10 1/2 and a 10 but not 10 1/4..!
Hope to find one on eBay soon..!
Thank's again !
Alex
The 10 1/4 usually goes between $500 and $1200 depending on condition. and they are incredibly rare.
Ouah..! Ok and do you think that a lie nilsen could be a solution ? Not the same history but good quality ! Thank's for your answer !! And I Hope to see a video this the 10 1/4!!!!!
See you!
Alex
Doesn't the iron actually go past the side of the sole on that plane?
Some people like to have it that way and some people like it to just be flushed with the side. If you haven't sticking out the side, you can be very sure that you won't have a step to surface. However, you may end up pushing your line farther over or getting a rough edge. If you have it flushed to the side. You have to be careful not to get a stepped surface but you won't be moving your line over farther and you won't be getting rough surface. It is 6 of 1/2 dozen or another depending upon which way you want to go.
couldn’t help noticing that Stanley 140 in the video... any ideas on if its a better tool for fine woodworking?
I love it for sholder work, but I really need to clean this one up. it is also missing the side as most of them are.
For my Record no.10 I can feed the blade stack in from the top at an angle. Maybe it works for this plane too.
I don't own a No. 10 1/4, but a normal rabbet plane. And also there i can set the blade tilted. You need to be careful not to damage the cutting edge, but with a little practice it works just fine. 8)
I can put the iron in through the Top with my Stanley 10 1/2.
I tried that, but it would not quite fit.
@@WoodByWright Hmm... Maybe the blade is a bit too wide in that plane. Oo
Anyway, nice tool.
@@WoodByWright how much is a 10 1/2 worth in America?
10 minutes ago I didn't know this existed, now I have to have one.
Lol. Good luck. They are not cheap. But so much fun.
It seems so versatile while retaining the functionality that it could actually replace a standard plane for pretty much everything but shooting end grain or did i miss some key detail?
It would get really old resetting everything when you needed to do a quick tuneup on the edge of the iron. A standard plane takes just a few seconds to pop out or in.
@@halsonger1317 You make a really good point!
Ya it is the old problem is that if it can do everything then it does nothing really well.
The floppy jack rabbit. I want one! I have no practical use.... but I still want one. $1000!?! Never mind
LOL I know right!
The good news is Veritas makes a low angle jack rabbet for a lot cheaper... relatively speaking of course :P
Wait, should I run out and buy one of these? Heck yes! Can I? Oh no, not if I want to keep electricity on to keep watching this awesome channel.
LOL I know right!
I was going ask if it was on the right Wood by Wright channel. So now you answered that question I will ask if it comes with any fences? Or are you working with such large timbers and fences lose their usefulness. A millimetre out with a cabinet would be a disaster, but with the large timbers it won’t be noticeable.
A very interesting video, and I even quite liked the dad joke.
no fences. the old timers rairly used them. just wrap your fingers around under and planr tot he line. once you do it a few times it is easy to be right on.
It doesn't belong to you!?!? Who gets it! Love the zebra wood! Nice!!! ❤️
LOL the owner Gets it back!
Daaaaa... What's up, Doc??? :-) I see ya have jack rabbits jumping about yur shop there, James. I know someone who could use one of those, ( *Wranglerstar* ) Cody. He sometimes does larger stuff, with timber framing...
Couldn't it be super useful as a shooting plane? That was my initial thought about the handles.
it can. though it is a bit oquard to hold that way.
Kya yeh patna me milega
So, you're going to make a carriage soon?
What a whaskly whabbit plane😂
Really cool plane and I could really put one of those to good use BUT the way the iron and cap have to be installed would anger me everytime I had to sharpen it.
Can't have your cake and eat it too, really.
ya this was odd on this one. on other #10s I have used you can swing them in from the top but not this one!
Comment down below
So glad they cost a pretty penny, all my pennies are ugly ;)
Yeah! I'm early
FIRST!!! you are my favorite person today!