Just watch a Heartbreakers video. Mike Campbell plays all kinds of Ricks. The rest of us need to know how to remove & assemble a fingerboard because some of us are going to actually do that.
I got a job right out of high school working at the Rickenbacker shop in Santa Ana Ca. The job I did the most was gluing necks and threading truss rods. As a guitar player it seemed like a dream job. Turned out to be a night mere. On a more positive note. All the under cut wood was tossed in the trash and I would fill my car with as much as it could take. A couple criticisms of working there the necks were glued on a carousel that when it made a full rotation the necks were removed to allow production to continue. Not enough dying time in the clamps. Truss rods were threaded with a hand held dye and a machine lathe. Safety was never a concern and there were accidents which is why I left.
I'm not surprised regarding Rickenbacker quality control practices. There are many examples of misaligning the bridge on the 4001 basses. Not installing the bridge in the right spot does not inspire confidence.
Should get Erick to do more videos like this. It seems like he's mostly in the commercial-esque videos, but I like seeing him doing walkthroughs and tutorials like this.
Erick is quite the repair man just like Dan, I build guitars but doing these in depth repair jobs is another story, it's all about the cool tricks and techniques you learn from years of experience.
Nice job. A little tip from an old painter. You could have avoided the paint chips as minor as they were by simply and of course carefully running an exacto or a razor blade down that line before removing the fretboard. Take a hair dryer to the paint first and heat it up a little bit not a lot. That will soften the paint a little and make it not so brittle. Then run the blade along the line and you should get a nice clean line when you pull the fretboard. You do need a steady hand to do this and be able to cut a straight line!
Index pins, you are a genius ! I have a fretboard on an old neck that needs to come of and it probably needs a refret too. But I have been trying to figure out how to do it with least issues as it's a bound neck. Problem solved. Thanks again, you are a star.
Oh I know all about Ricky truss rods. The wood fiber is always folded the way Ricky drove them in, so trying to rip them back the way they were shoved in is like pulling out a porcupine quill. If you can find one try a small Klein Chicago grip for tensioning overhead powerlines. The harder you pull the tighter they grab. GREAT FOR BASSES! The Glue Goo stuff is awesome. Love the stuff. Can't live without it, and I have yet to copy it.
The truss rods are two pieces (four pieces total) it is similar to modern dual action truss rods, but these are only single action with the same construction technique, therefore it does not need a widened anchoring channel, just a straight channel all the way through. It is welded together at the heel. If one were to weld it together at the nut, then it would be a dual action truss rod. As well, if a washer is placed between the adjustment nut and the wood of the neck, the other, non-threaded truss rod can press against that washer and this can actually become a dual action truss rod, if the threaded end is long enough, as in there is enough thread to push into the cavity as the non-threaded rod pushes against the washer.
Great tutorial BUT I don't understand: if you can drive them out from the heel end, how are the truss rods anchored? Had you already removed the fixings at the heel end?
The truss rods push against the fretboard. You can pop a ric fretboard off if you don’t pre tension the neck. I restored a ric bass that had damaged rods and neck and wiring had been destroyed. I learned quite a lot about ric instruments.
In other repair videos people say when gluing a finger board on the glue may cause the wood to swell resulting in a back-bow in the neck and advise clamping the neck to a board using a small shim to create a slight front bow. That kinda made sense to me. So I'm wondering what other opinions are?
Mats Burman The truss rods aren't anchored and are designed to be removed and replaced if needed. They're basically a folded or welded piece of flat stock like Erick said; when you tighten the nut on the bottom threaded part, it pushes against the top piece, acting like a double expanding rod. Let's say this Rick's neck wouldn't adjust- in that case, you can pull out the rods and either straighten or bend them as needed to adjust relief. I think these truss rods were the old style Rick used, where you wouldn't simply tighten the nuts; you basically have to loosen the nuts, physically shift the neck into the shape you want, and then carefully tighten away. It worked, but if you treated it like any other truss rod, there's a chance you could actually pop the fretboard right off the neck! Hope that clears things up.
Excellent work, I am a little curious as to the sequence of events on this job, but what do I know compared to these guys, right? Calm, methodical and professional. And having the specialty tools really helps make a job like this go smoothly. How many of us have neck separator spatulas?
Very nice and hard work there. My bass has the same problem in upper end of the neck, around 8cm is separated with very little gap. Is there any way to glue it without removing the truss rods and entire fretboard? I mean with just glue and pressing clamp and some simple tools as i dont have those proper tools. Can you help me out?
you might want to mention to check what sort of material the fret markers/inlays are made of before applying heat, I knew of a guy who fried a Ricky neck with the big old celluloid triangle inlays once, turned on the neck heater and went to lunch, and ended up buying the customer a new guitar. Sad to see those p/u's in that cool old guitar.
If you were taking off the fb anyways, why did you have to extract the truss rods before you did that? Isn’t the truss rod slot wide enough to lift it out if the board is off?
Thanks for posting this I'm about to take this on . Question is there a reason you put the rods in after you put the board on ? Does it matter if you do reverse?
Great video. Thanks. You said you would reinstall the truss rods through the peg head. You mentioned they were originally installed from the heel but they liked to continue in that direction for removal. Wy would you not install them through the heel like Rickenbacker did?
Bravo Eric, always enjoy these STEWIE videos, and have gained a lot of (hard won ?) wisdom in the process, however I have 2 things: 1. Why not re-install the rods first, as the factory does, prior to attaching the fingerboard? And 2. Why do most Luthiers "Clamp" fingerboards to necks in a "FREE STANDING" condition? I have a 36" milling machine table, which I use in clamping boards to necks, that way the board is as straight as the machine table when done! Eliminates a LOT of needless extra leveling work, particularly when frets are already in the board, as in this tutorial, call me lazy, or crafty, whatever! BTW, how does a flat bar truss rod provide the curve deflection required to "Pull" back a bow??? Gb g
Are a lot of electrics build with a neck like that? I seen it on this Rickenbacker and on Albert Kings Lucy. I think of it being a bolt on like a Strat or a set neck like a Les Paul.
i love seeing the process of replacing and fixing truss rods. its so funny to me to see how these guitars and basses are so expensive but are still made so poorly that they come apart from normal adjustment due to lack of glue
The type of glue is designed to let go if the instrument gets too hot. This summer-break many schools left the A/C off for the summer. All the wood instruments got too hot after many 100 degree days in a row. Most of them came apart, but almost all of them were repairable because the glue let the instrument loosen up and it did not tear up the wooden parts. (West Texas)
I have a 1966 370-12 MG that I own since 1967. The neck angle has become crooked, the frets need work, it has never been leveled or refretted so there are spots where the notes jump from half a tone to 1 full tone from one fret to the other. Otherwise it plays wonderful and it has a very "old" sound. How much to do all this?
Beautiful, and graceful. I would've stayed with a fine grit on the edge sander for the glue, tho. Don't you think the de glue goo is going to make for an unreliable gluing surface? Ppm, man, ppm.
Just trying to figure out what you used to clamp the fretboard. Im regluing my fretboard and i wanted the rubber band clamps like you have. Are they available on stewmac?
I had one of these back in the early 80s. I was suspicious when the guy at the guitar store gave me exactly what I wanted for it, no haggling. SMH. I wish I could remember the name of the place, it was one of the first to go belly up on 48th street. I think it was Alex Music.
I received a 99 , 330 6 string Rickenbacker what I need is a action adjustment , which I would do but it being a Ric I'm a little afraid I'm going to screw it Do yo do guitars and intonate the let me know i live in NY thanks
Advice for someone wanting to remove fret marker inlays, and "disguise" them as wood? I have a rosewood fingerboard with white inlays. I want to make the fingerboard look like theres no fret markers.
How do I successfully separate a scarf joint that's under the fretboard? I have a through the body guitar neck that the headstock is irreparable (long story) so I'm planning on using a donor guitar neck and grafting the headstock from one neck to the other. I know I have to remove the fretboard to do this operation. The guitar neck that I'm trying to save has a locking nut on it. Any help you can offer is helpful. Plus I've never done this before. I'm a beginning luthier.
Hi Allen, this is quite a complex repair job that entails more than we could effectively communicate here. If you would like to speak with one of our technical supervisors, please give our toll-free number (1-800-848-2273) a call and ask to be transferred to our Tech Line. Our techs would be happy to assist and advise you as much as possible.
Erick hammers the truss rods out because he originally planned to fix them and the small section of fretboard separation without removing the board. His previous experience also drove him to hammer them out in the direction they were installed. However, after removing the truss rods and evaluating this separation, he determined it was necessary to remove the board all together. He decided to reinstalled them by hammering to ensure they would not get glued stuck in the truss rod channels. This is why he placed the teflon rods in the channels and covered them with tape.
kwstikas82 I was wondering about that too...and figured it out.... If you go back and watch carefully at 2:56 when he shows the buggered threads you'll see what appear to be FOUR rods - each rod in the guitar is actually TWO rods that are laid side-by-side and ONE end is welded together (could be just one rod folded too) One side has threads for the adjustment nut - the other just has a flat end the nut will push on when tightened - forcing them to curve....At 3:05 where he's tapping the threads you can see he's holding the flat end out of the way with one hand. It would be a good idea to wax the rods to help them move when reinstalled.
so he can teach two things at one time,www.azquotes.com/picture-quotes/quote-it-is-the-commonest-of-mistakes-to-consider-that-the-limit-of-our-power-of-perception-charles-webster-leadbeater-53-34-36.jpg READ MORE: www.disclose.tv/forum/posting.php?mode=quote&f=31&p=1086598
+jsilence418 I had a friend that bought a 481 when we were teenagers and learning how to play. We both pulled weeds out of bean fields all Summer and saved up for good guitars so that we could be rock stars. As I recall, I got a Guild S300-D (another excellent discontinued guitar) and he got the 481. I think they were both in the high $400 range and both built in the USA. I have no idea why they didn't sell well, they are very well built, play well and sound great.
Yes but at that point he was hoping not to have to remove the board at all. After getting them out it was clear that the board would not "go back where it belonged" during a more minor repair effort so he had to go to plan B and remove/start fresh. Good approach IMO "first do no harm"" way of thinking.
Don't like the idea of type or elastic bands as clamping, doesn't give you enough force and there's no Force in the middle only on the edges, why don't you use just 10 clamps with a half an inch of sacrificial pieces of wood top and bottom. Always clamp for middle to edge
Why remove the tape. all the squeeze out is gona run into the rod channel that you cant see. you seen the amount that came out the of the outside of the neck. imagine how much went into the truss rod channel opening ???? you should of cut some greaseproof paper a couple of mm wider than the channels and n left that on, would of made sure no glue went into those channels and hindered any tr adjustment later on when dry. Just thinking out loud btw. Nice guitar that. not seen a sixer in that model before.
Guys a tip for the channel. Everyone always, always wants to see the completed guitar in the end.
ThingsAreLookingUp yes dear god yes.... I hate it how they always end with a jump to a finished product and a 10 second demo... or nothing....
I've never even noticed that, I'm plenty satisfied seeing the work done.
Faksakes its just for promoting their products
"Yeah, you're guitar is a complete write-off as Dan is loosing it with age, but his finger prints will add value. That'll be $9,000."
Just watch a Heartbreakers video. Mike Campbell plays all kinds of Ricks. The rest of us need to know how to remove & assemble a fingerboard because some of us are going to actually do that.
I got a job right out of high school working at the Rickenbacker shop in Santa Ana Ca. The job I did the most was gluing necks and threading truss rods. As a guitar player it seemed like a dream job. Turned out to be a night mere. On a more positive note. All the under cut wood was tossed in the trash and I would fill my car with as much as it could take. A couple criticisms of working there the necks were glued on a carousel that when it made a full rotation the necks were removed to allow production to continue. Not enough dying time in the clamps. Truss rods were threaded with a hand held dye and a machine lathe. Safety was never a concern and there were accidents which is why I left.
That would have been cool to get a bunch of that wood.
@@Ibaneddie76 no pun intended, I believe.
I'm not surprised regarding Rickenbacker quality control practices. There are many examples of misaligning the bridge on the 4001 basses. Not installing the bridge in the right spot does not inspire confidence.
Should get Erick to do more videos like this. It seems like he's mostly in the commercial-esque videos, but I like seeing him doing walkthroughs and tutorials like this.
I like this guy. He seems honest and objective. Explains things in a calm way. I get enough excitement at home.
Isn't it awesome watching a craftsman at work. Love this channel.
Absolutely amazing. Very calm and collected. The opposite of how I would be.
Amazing.
Would be nice to see a follow up of the finished guitar.
sefton1972 the opposite of what I'd be
I got a good laugh from that
Would loved to have seen the rest of what you did.
Erick is quite the repair man just like Dan, I build guitars but doing these in depth repair jobs is another story, it's all about the cool tricks and techniques you learn from years of experience.
Nice job. A little tip from an old painter. You could have avoided the paint chips as minor as they were by simply and of course carefully running an exacto or a razor blade down that line before removing the fretboard. Take a hair dryer to the paint first and heat it up a little bit not a lot. That will soften the paint a little and make it not so brittle. Then run the blade along the line and you should get a nice clean line when you pull the fretboard. You do need a steady hand to do this and be able to cut a straight line!
I work on old furniture, that was my first thought, can save a lot of effort later.
Thanks for the tip, I'll make use of it soon!
Index pins, you are a genius ! I have a fretboard on an old neck that needs to come of and it probably needs a refret too. But I have been trying to figure out how to do it with least issues as it's a bound neck. Problem solved. Thanks again, you are a star.
To prevent the paint chipping I use an exacto knife to score along the fretboard. I like what you did with the iron, a very helpful tip! Thanks
"ERICK, I NEED MY IRON BACK!!!!!!!!"
" FOR CRYING OUT LOUD MA, I'M TRYIN' TO MAKE A VIDEO!!!!!! "
I can watch this all day long.
Great job nice to see a guy with passion and pride in his work.
Way cool! would love to see how the neck is re-attached!
That was very interesting. Why not show the whole job?
I hope there is a part 2. I really want to see the rest of the repair work, as well as the finished guitar being played!
Oh I know all about Ricky truss rods. The wood fiber is always folded the way Ricky drove them in, so trying to rip them back the way they were shoved in is like pulling out a porcupine quill. If you can find one try a small Klein Chicago grip for tensioning overhead powerlines. The harder you pull the tighter they grab. GREAT FOR BASSES! The Glue Goo stuff is awesome. Love the stuff. Can't live without it, and I have yet to copy it.
I hope you do another video on the Rickenbacker as you put it together and get it stringed up, I would love to hear it being played. Great video!
As always a great video packed with solid information. It would be great to see this project carried to completion. Thanks for sharing!
The truss rods are two pieces (four pieces total) it is similar to modern dual action truss rods, but these are only single action with the same construction technique, therefore it does not need a widened anchoring channel, just a straight channel all the way through. It is welded together at the heel. If one were to weld it together at the nut, then it would be a dual action truss rod.
As well, if a washer is placed between the adjustment nut and the wood of the neck, the other, non-threaded truss rod can press against that washer and this can actually become a dual action truss rod, if the threaded end is long enough, as in there is enough thread to push into the cavity as the non-threaded rod pushes against the washer.
Great tutorial BUT I don't understand: if you can drive them out from the heel end, how are the truss rods anchored? Had you already removed the fixings at the heel end?
I was wondering, Why did you take the truss rods out first and then the neck, instead of the other way around.
The truss rods push against the fretboard. You can pop a ric fretboard off if you don’t pre tension the neck. I restored a ric bass that had damaged rods and neck and wiring had been destroyed. I learned quite a lot about ric instruments.
In other repair videos people say when gluing a finger board on the glue may cause the wood to swell resulting in a back-bow in the neck and advise clamping the neck to a board using a small shim to create a slight front bow. That kinda made sense to me. So I'm wondering what other opinions are?
Yes, also intrigued about how the truss rods are anchored. Plus how they work, not being curved.
Mats Burman The truss rods aren't anchored and are designed to be removed and replaced if needed. They're basically a folded or welded piece of flat stock like Erick said; when you tighten the nut on the bottom threaded part, it pushes against the top piece, acting like a double expanding rod. Let's say this Rick's neck wouldn't adjust- in that case, you can pull out the rods and either straighten or bend them as needed to adjust relief. I think these truss rods were the old style Rick used, where you wouldn't simply tighten the nuts; you basically have to loosen the nuts, physically shift the neck into the shape you want, and then carefully tighten away. It worked, but if you treated it like any other truss rod, there's a chance you could actually pop the fretboard right off the neck! Hope that clears things up.
jetglo330 Thanks a lot, Jetglo! I think I understand now. Doesn't seem like a very good construction, though...
What setting do you set the iron at prior to putting it on the fretboard?
Pleasure to watch you work.
I don't understand where the anchoring point is on the truss rod. Was there a threaded anchor on the heel end of it?
Excellent work, I am a little curious as to the sequence of events on this job, but what do I know compared to these guys, right? Calm, methodical and professional. And having the specialty tools really helps make a job like this go smoothly. How many of us have neck separator spatulas?
This was great! Would be great if you posted reassembly videos for this guitar. Cheers!
Great video. I learned so much from it, and also from some of the informed comments. Keep up the great work.
Very nice and hard work there. My bass has the same problem in upper end of the neck, around 8cm is separated with very little gap. Is there any way to glue it without removing the truss rods and entire fretboard? I mean with just glue and pressing clamp and some simple tools as i dont have those proper tools. Can you help me out?
you might want to mention to check what sort of material the fret markers/inlays are made of before applying heat, I knew of a guy who fried a Ricky neck with the big old celluloid triangle inlays once, turned on the neck heater and went to lunch, and ended up buying the customer a new guitar. Sad to see those p/u's in that cool old guitar.
If you were taking off the fb anyways, why did you have to extract the truss rods before you did that? Isn’t the truss rod slot wide enough to lift it out if the board is off?
Thanks for posting this I'm about to take this on .
Question is there a reason you put the rods in after you put the board on ? Does it matter if you do reverse?
Great video. Thanks. You said you would reinstall the truss rods through the peg head. You mentioned they were originally installed from the heel but they liked to continue in that direction for removal. Wy would you not install them through the heel like Rickenbacker did?
Scott Clark
Why not just install them while the fretboard was off?
Ítalo Brito
You could just leave the masking tape in place and glue the fretboard over it.
Bravo Eric, always enjoy these STEWIE videos, and have gained a lot of (hard won ?) wisdom in the process, however I have 2 things: 1. Why not re-install the rods first, as the factory does, prior to attaching the fingerboard? And 2. Why do most Luthiers "Clamp" fingerboards to necks in a "FREE STANDING" condition? I have a 36" milling machine table, which I use in clamping boards to necks, that way the board is as straight as the machine table when done! Eliminates a LOT of needless extra leveling work, particularly when frets are already in the board, as in this tutorial, call me lazy, or crafty, whatever! BTW, how does a flat bar truss rod provide the curve deflection required to "Pull" back a bow??? Gb g
Are a lot of electrics build with a neck like that? I seen it on this Rickenbacker and on Albert Kings Lucy. I think of it being a bolt on like a Strat or a set neck like a Les Paul.
Any reason why you didn’t just install the truss rods at the same time you glued up the fingerboard to save a step?
Or why he removed them before removing the fingerboard...
Are those truss Rod's non-adjustable I don't understand how you can just tap them out
Very impressive. I can tell you've done this more times than most men
i love seeing the process of replacing and fixing truss rods. its so funny to me to see how these guitars and basses are so expensive but are still made so poorly that they come apart from normal adjustment due to lack of glue
The type of glue is designed to let go if the instrument gets too hot. This summer-break many schools left the A/C off for the summer. All the wood instruments got too hot after many 100 degree days in a row. Most of them came apart, but almost all of them were repairable because the glue let the instrument loosen up and it did not tear up the wooden parts. (West Texas)
What a great tutorial, thanks so much...
Will it not work better with a steam iron
great job man. How do you not burn the fretboard with the iron??
Why didn't you install the rods before you put the fret board on? Every build I have seen has done it!
I have a 1966 370-12 MG that I own since 1967. The neck angle has become crooked, the frets need work, it has never been leveled or refretted so there are spots where the notes jump from half a tone to 1 full tone from one fret to the other. Otherwise it plays wonderful and it has a very "old" sound. How much to do all this?
What about add neck relief when putting the fret board on. Doing so you have to adjust the truss rod and put it in tension.
N00b question....Why knock out the truss rods? Why not just take them out and replace them while the fretboard is off?
How are the truss rods anchored? Just curious.
Clearance fit.
Beautiful, and graceful. I would've stayed with a fine grit on the edge sander for the glue, tho. Don't you think the de glue goo is going to make for an unreliable gluing surface? Ppm, man, ppm.
Curious to why he didn’t glue both surfaces?
Just trying to figure out what you used to clamp the fretboard. Im regluing my fretboard and i wanted the rubber band clamps like you have. Are they available on stewmac?
would really like to see a follow up to this video :D rickenbacker ftw
Where can I buy that high tech StewMac iron? I can’t find it on the site.
I had one of these back in the early 80s. I was suspicious when the guy at the guitar store gave me exactly what I wanted for it, no haggling. SMH. I wish I could remember the name of the place, it was one of the first to go belly up on 48th street. I think it was Alex Music.
Man, those Rickenbackers are a pain in the ass.
They totally are. I have a 4001 '75 for more than 30 years. Fretboard is now coming out, and neck is cracking. It's disheartening.
What if I want to remove a fretless fingerboard? should I put the iron straight on the fingerboard?
Use some wet towels underneath the heating iron.
I received a 99 , 330 6 string Rickenbacker what I need is a action adjustment , which I would do but it being a Ric I'm a little afraid I'm going to screw it Do yo do guitars and intonate the let me know i live in NY thanks
How do you remove fretboard on laminated necks like the 3piece ibanez neck types.
Same way
Can anyone connect me with a link to those awesome indexing pins Erick used? I have been using drill bits, but those pins look perfect.
McMaster Carr has many sizes and types. Search Dowel Pins. 🙂
Advice for someone wanting to remove fret marker inlays, and "disguise" them as wood? I have a rosewood fingerboard with white inlays. I want to make the fingerboard look like theres no fret markers.
No clamping caul to keep it straight and flat?
Will this method work on a Gibson fretboard?
this kind of job deserves a 2hour edit.
How do I successfully separate a scarf joint that's under the fretboard? I have a through the body guitar neck that the headstock is irreparable (long story) so I'm planning on using a donor guitar neck and grafting the headstock from one neck to the other. I know I have to remove the fretboard to do this operation. The guitar neck that I'm trying to save has a locking nut on it. Any help you can offer is helpful. Plus I've never done this before. I'm a beginning luthier.
Hi Allen, this is quite a complex repair job that entails more than we could effectively communicate here. If you would like to speak with one of our technical supervisors, please give our toll-free number (1-800-848-2273) a call and ask to be transferred to our Tech Line. Our techs would be happy to assist and advise you as much as possible.
stewartmacdonald Thanks. Will do.
you're an artist good sir
Very nice job sir!
Excellent video
Do you have the steam on when removing the board?
That was awesome! Where's Part 2?!
Why not put back the rods before glueing the fretboard back on?
You should probably explain how Ric rods work, or more importantly how they don't work.
Why were the rods hammered out instead of just taking them out after the fretboard was off?
Erick hammers the truss rods out because he originally planned to fix them and the small section of fretboard separation without removing the board. His previous experience also drove him to hammer them out in the direction they were installed. However, after removing the truss rods and evaluating this separation, he determined it was necessary to remove the board all together. He decided to reinstalled them by hammering to ensure they would not get glued stuck in the truss rod channels. This is why he placed the teflon rods in the channels and covered them with tape.
@@stewmac Got it, thanks!
My guitar needs a new trussrod. Some luthiers tell me the fretboard also need to be replaced, because the old one can't be used again...?
Great stuff thanks for that, I've got lots of tools to buy.
how do these truss rods work since they are not anchored?
kwstikas82 I was wondering about that too...and figured it out.... If you go back and watch carefully at 2:56 when he shows the buggered threads you'll see what appear to be FOUR rods - each rod in the guitar is actually TWO rods that are laid side-by-side and ONE end is welded together (could be just one rod folded too) One side has threads for the adjustment nut - the other just has a flat end the nut will push on when tightened - forcing them to curve....At 3:05 where he's tapping the threads you can see he's holding the flat end out of the way with one hand. It would be a good idea to wax the rods to help them move when reinstalled.
Wow! Impressive!
What is the iron set on?
Whats the point of tapping out the truss rods when you're removing the fingerboard anyway.
+cast390 good point
+cast390 I suspect it was to see if the truss rods were causing the fretboard lift before going to the step of removing the fretboard.
+cast390 Perhaps so you don't glue the truss rods. If you glue them by accident, they may be stuck from there on out.
so he can teach two things at one time,www.azquotes.com/picture-quotes/quote-it-is-the-commonest-of-mistakes-to-consider-that-the-limit-of-our-power-of-perception-charles-webster-leadbeater-53-34-36.jpg READ MORE: www.disclose.tv/forum/posting.php?mode=quote&f=31&p=1086598
+cast390 Well if you were listening , he took em out cause the threads were chewed up , so he could re-thread them ;) +0:41
i would love to be your helper , i could learn what i need to great job its so hard to figure this stuff out ?!?
Is that the original finger board ? Didn't they have slanted frets with Rickenbacker style inlays ?
+jsilence418 Not the 480. The 481 had the slanted frets and the triangle inlays.
teerexness Thank you.
jsilence418 I have a white 481. Fantastic guitar. They never should have stopped making them.
teerexness I remember they didn't seem to sell very well, probably prohibitively expensive to get one now.
+jsilence418 I had a friend that bought a 481 when we were teenagers and learning how to play. We both pulled weeds out of bean fields all Summer and saved up for good guitars so that we could be rock stars. As I recall, I got a Guild S300-D (another excellent discontinued guitar) and he got the 481. I think they were both in the high $400 range and both built in the USA. I have no idea why they didn't sell well, they are very well built, play well and sound great.
"has some serious problems"
pulls neck off
"the fingerboard is broken!"
Pushing out rod / rods ? How to save binding from iron heat ? This all job could be avoid if the fingerboard was glued proper !
You’d still have to remove the truss rod to shorten and refret it.
The dolphin clamp should be its name. Lol.
show the whole job please !
That was an awesome video....
Great Job.
Wheres the finished product?
Thanks man... invaluable!
Thanks... this is great! A regular iron... wow... Rubber bands... I love this
if im going through all that...its getting new truss rods..
guitar fixin' magician
Thanks stewartmacdonald!!!
Couldn't you have just taken the fretboard off before taking the truss rods out?
Yes but at that point he was hoping not to have to remove the board at all. After getting them out it was clear that the board would not "go back where it belonged" during a more minor repair effort so he had to go to plan B and remove/start fresh. Good approach IMO "first do no harm"" way of thinking.
Don't like the idea of type or elastic bands as clamping, doesn't give you enough force and there's no Force in the middle only on the edges, why don't you use just 10 clamps with a half an inch of sacrificial pieces of wood top and bottom. Always clamp for middle to edge
Why remove the tape. all the squeeze out is gona run into the rod channel that you cant see. you seen the amount that came out the of the outside of the neck. imagine how much went into the truss rod channel opening ???? you should of cut some greaseproof paper a couple of mm wider than the channels and n left that on, would of made sure no glue went into those channels and hindered any tr adjustment later on when dry. Just thinking out loud btw. Nice guitar that. not seen a sixer in that model before.
480 or 481?
damn those long lines of frets. 22 isn't enough??
Just when you think there’s no hope for a guitar then bam 💥