Thank you so much for your videos. they really are very easy to understand and immeasurably helpful for us rookie builders. The process can get super frustrating at times but you advice always seems to turn things around. Thanks again.
Mr. Boudreau…I just wanted to say that I really appreciate this video and your wisdom and willingness to share. I just glued up a fingerboard to a neck that I had to replace the truss rod on ……it was my first time and I think it went pretty well. I pretty much copied everything you did. I’m sitting here looking at it and I just wanted to say thanks. Larry in az
9 minute video, 3 very useful tips. Thanks! I have an old Japanese Jazz bass copy with a non functioning truss rod that I need to replace and this will come in handy for putting everything back together again.
That's good advice on the squeezeout. You can also take like a minute and simply tape off the edge of the neck, so no glue even touches it. Not very difficult, a straight line and some tape.
Chris, thanks so much for freely sharing your guitar building knowledge and techniques with us. I watch and rewatch everything you've put on UA-cam, so educational. I've purchased a few of your plans and am about to jump off into the rabbit hole of guitar making.
Loved this video- I really appreciate the commentary on common techniques and misconceptions about this process. I’ve read 3 books that include this subject and your video here surmises the best advice of all 3! Thanks for your time and effort in putting this together!
Always good advice. Also high pressure clamping can distort the wood just enough to create an open joint. If your mating surfaces are perfect, very little pressure is needed for the perfect closed joint. Great stuff.
Thank you Building my first guitar... Classical... and that salt trick was the wonderful blessing... I did not put any on then when i went to clamp it... slide... slip... I rolled my eyes and ran to the kitchen and quickly returned ant that did the trick.... Thanks once again
I know you probably don't run into this on a new build but, I had to pull the fretboard off of a neck because it was separating, after I got it apart it was pretty apparent that the wood around the truss rod adjuster has gotten some type of oil soaked into it, the rest of the glue was kind of crystalized so it separated easily. Want to try and save the neck and fretboard and prep the neck and fretboard with something to draw the oil out, would Naphtha suffice?
I'm building my first guitar, and this video was very helpful. Thank you for the content. Perhaps we could get in contact sometime, because I'm a baby luthier, looking to get into building custom guitars, and could use a solid wisdom base.
That's interesting I've never seen anyone use salt to add grit to their glue to keep the pieces from slipping. I'll have to try this on my stringered neck blanks. For fretboards I have index pins through the fret slots at the 1st and 17th frets to keep it from moving while gluing.
I think pins are the way to go. I don't know how I'd feel about grains of anything in between the two surfaces, even if harmless. I avoid anything that reduces vibration and it seems like having pockets of material imbued in the wood/hardened glue would influence the overall vibe negatively, simply because of a density differences.. If there were a way to apply the grains uniformly, then I might feel better about it. 🤷♂️
Which glue is used to join the fretboard to the neck? Can I use Araldite? I tried using Fevicol bu eventually it gave up to string pressure slowly ripping the fretboard off of neck.
This just seems like more of the same, over complicating things. Do what you want but I see no reason to compromise your glue with a foreign chemical. Gluing on a fretboard is not that difficult. Even the slippiest glue tacks up soon enough. Align one end, clamp it, align the other, clamp it, clamp the middle, adjusting as you go. Dial in the clamping pressure from the center towards the ends and you're golden. I've used fish glue with great results. Starts off tacky with plenty of time to make adjustments. Taping over the truss rod is stupid too. If you're only using a thin layer of glue to minimize squeeze out, why reduce the glue contact area with tape? A tiny amount of glue in the truss rod slot won't hurt. Some of these builders over think and complicate a fairly simple concept. They're guitars, not space shuttles.
Great video. Sadly, my fretboard became separated from the neck, but luckily it was only the first 4 frets. My question is, what are those clamps called so I can purchase them, and what is the proper name for that neck cradle so I can buy everything I need to do it myself? Thank you!
Someone out there would be able to tell us (a) the brand and grain size of the salt Leo Fender used and (b) that they can identify the tone that the Very Special Salt imparts to the instruments.
Oh, man. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and skill. That's very generous of you. Looking for tips for my first build. Gonna purchase the body already shaped and cut but want to try a few things with the neck and this was absolutely helpful. Thanks again.
Chris Good video , is it nescessarily that the trussrod is in contact with the fretboard?. Some luthiers put a strip of wood above the trussrod, flush with the guitarneck.Is it possible with veneer?
I've seen a few videos of guys doing DIY kits. They get these great tops with a thin veneer of flamed maple. They go to try and leather dye stain that top, and the dye won't soak in. Is that due to the worker at the factory wiping the excess glue quickly?
No way! thanks for the reply Chris. I'm talking my wife into the CNC machine you have. Thanks for the great vids man! I used to live in Colorado Springs. Cheers from Arizona.@@HighlineGuitars
What about the line of the neck and the truss rod nut when setting up for gluing…? Does anyone put a bit of back bow into the neck and have the truss rod nut only just on when clamping…?
hello, first time builder here, but i built several horsebows.. thanks for your time, really educative. during gluing operations, we use to rake the wood with a metal saw blade so we are sure the glue perfectly penetrates the surface. do you think it would work or not ? thank you.
my Gibson junior epiphone les Pauls fret board has gap a pick can enter.? ! at high e plays great. can a truss rod force board up? 2nd fret to 8th fret
I have a mini fret board peeling from the neck. I turned down the truss rod pressure so everyrhing looks straight but seperated. Should i seperate the fretboard completely and try to reglue the board back on or should isqueeze some glue inbetween and hope for the best
I'm not putting salt between by fretboard and neck when gluing. That's asking for trouble. You're right about letting squeeze-out dry and chiseling it off!
It's only a few grains in a few spots. It won't cause any problems and is a technique that has been used for years. Do a test on some scrap to see for yourself.
I have a guitar that the fretboard separate from the neck not completely but the from the first 3rd fret. The rest of the fretboard is still glued to the neck. Can I use like elmer's carpenter wood glue to glue them or it have to be tiebond glue. Thanks!
I had never heard the salt thing, that's a really neat idea. I imagine it dissolves into the glue as it dries? You may have even said this in the video. If so, I apologize. Damn ADD.
Hi Chris, i always read the other comments and answers first, before i ask a question. This answered it all ( most ) . I wanted to ask, if you have hypotheticly no plan, no nut placement indication, where exactly do i glue the fretboard on ? The taper is a good answer, but you can have also a square blank and fretboard, but then you can determine more related to the scalelenght. If removing and reglueing.. that was my main question actually, how to determine where ? The 12th fret ! Great answer ! I thought, to make on the side a marking where the nut ends. But i have one more important question. I have a TOKAI SG with binding on the neck and the trussrod is with no any means or tricks possible to MOVE. Totaly jammed up.. Now, should i be able to remove the fretboard WITH binding without damaging the binding and reuse after new trussrod install ? Any tips ? Thanks so much Chris ! Greets from Belgium.
To get a truss rod freed up, you first want to remove the strings, then clamp the neck down in a way that introduces a little backbow into it. sort of reverse-relief, as it were. This will assure that the tension rod is relaxed. Then, insert the adjusting tool into the adjuster for the tension rod, and carefully try to TIGHTEN it a bit. This alone will often break it free. Use just enough force to put some firm torgue on the rod adjuster, so long as you keep in mind you don't want to break the rod, strip the threads, or tear out the anchor. Hold the torque on it for half a minute or so, as sometimes the rod adjuster is slowly creeping loose while this is being done. Next, try torquing in the opposite direction in the same overall manner. Doing this several times, in one direction & then the other, can often break the cold-fused adjuster loose, & enable the rod to function properly again. Additionally, you can try tapping on the wrench with a mallet or a small hammer as you apply torque. That can get the adjuster to 'pop' loose, sometimes. You can also try some spray contact cleaner, but be sure to use the type that LEAVES NO RESIDUE. If you can access the adjuster, spray the cleaner directly on it and then go right to work at attempting to twist the wrench as I described. Exercise caution & use patience. I hope this will help. If not, there's really only two or three choices for what to do next. One, you can remove all the frets & re-level the fretboard, or, Two, you 'll need to remove the fretboard to service or replace the stuck rod. Third, if the amount of bow or relief is only slightly off, you can sometimes get by with just leveling & re-crowning the frets, but that's sort of a band-aid that doesn't actually fix what's wrong, and if the tension rod issue is ever properly corrected in the future, the guitar would then need a new fret job, same as it would if the fretboard was leveled to compensate for a stuck rod. The only way to do a proper repair, if the rod simply won't move no matter what, is to remove the fretboard & deal with the tension rod directly.
Is your fretboard radiused? I noticed you didn't use a clamping caul and I was wondering if it is OK to not use one on a radiused fretboard. Great video, many thanks
It's always best to use a clamping caul. However, I didn't have one long enough for this neck and I opted to clamp without one. Not the best choice, but it worked okay.
Hi Chris, thanks for the informative video. Some very practical tips there! I was wondering why you decide to clamp the two parts without a reference support over the entire length. It seems to me that this makes you risk losing the straightness of your original parts. Wouldn't it be wise to support the fretboard side with a rigid, straight support? Especially considering your approach on trying to avoid leveling your fretwork. Would like to hear your thoughts on this.
Does salt weaken the glue: This is a question I asked myself after watching this video (good video by the way). So, I looked around. A glue expert from tightbond is quoted as saying that salt or sugar can react with the glue and weaken the bond. However, some people have done (semi scientific) testing and in all tests the wood failed before the glue did. So IMO, the answer is, salt may weaken the bond but not enough to be of any concern since the glue is still stronger than the surrounding wood. That said just use a bit as shown in this video :)
Of course Titebond will say that. They have to be thoughtful about their warranty. I’ve never had an issue with salt weakening the glue and I have had to remove a few.
I did my first neck, i proceeded without any problem. When i assemble it and play, i noticed a big problem which is truss rod rattle. It vibrates and disturb the player so much. I definitely didnt work coarse but dont know where the clearance is. What can i do to prevent this on my next? Does silicone filling or sth else work?
Just give the truss rod nut a couple of turns. Not enough to move the neck, but just enough to bend the rod so it will press against the top and bottom of the channel, and that will eliminate the rattle.
@@mertakgun8209 Sounds like somethings wrong with the rod or you have way too much slop between the rod and the channel. Routing to a closer tolerance the next time will help Also, you can wrap the rod in Teflon plumber's tape to get a tighter fit.
Heat shrink on the rod. Plummer's tape on the rod. Thin bits of cork are lightly pressed into the walls of the slot and the rod (not advisable for several reasons). I was told styrofoam (polystyrene) is used also (again, not advisable). Demand improved workmanship from yourself, set a higher standard of expectations, and commit to holding a tighter tolerance on the slot dimensions. A moderately generous dollop of caulk at each end, and one in the middle of the length, of the slot. I often glue a thin strip of the neck wood on top of the slot, setting this piece on to shallow and narrow shoulders milled into the neck. The slot is milled to a depth which includes the thickness of this piece of wood, which is also the depth of the shoulder (I have heard other guitar builders, Luthiers, claim that they use epoxy to glue the fretboard to the neck and will glue the middle of the truss rod to either the underside of the fretboard or the underside of the narrow strip of wood glued on top of the truss rod slot, but I never had anyone explain why they would do this). Wrap a thick, wide rubber band, or several small, narrow rubber bands, around each end of the truss rod. As for locating the fretboard, I rely on my machinist/process engineer background, and I use small case hardened dowel pins in an off-cut area which is removed after glue up. I used to use, and occasionally still do yours a fixture which has a pocket that fits the profile of the neck and fretboard to a tight tolerance (one of many advantages of using a vertical mill, whether in CNC or manual mode, to cut dimensions to a degree of accuracy and precision which 99.9% of human beings cannot touch with any hand tools). I've also milled a shallow slot into the underside of the fretboard, which precisely, and accurately matches the location and width of the shoulders milled into the neck to fit the strip of neck wood inserted above the truss rod. The thin strip of wood is obviously cut to a matching width, and a thickness to match the depth of the milled shoulders plus the depth of the slot milled into the underside of the fretboard. This strip of wood now functions as key that is set into matching keyways. This is a very sound design principle for accurately locating two mating components, commonly used on precision ground shafts and pulleys, gears, bearing components, etc.
Sir thanx for this video. I have a probleem glueing. After glueing there is a gab (1 mm apr.) between the fretboard and neck from fret 12 to 19. ( i build in leds)... what would you suggest?..ireing so glue melts? Than clamp again?...or sand chape the fretboard?
Please tell us how deep the rod channel has to be routed ??? ...and also tell us which router bits are best to use ?? like Diablo brand or deWalt or Ryobi ....please tell us !! thanks
Since its been 2 months and you have not had an answer, I'll try to help you. The depth of the truss rod channel will be identical to the depth of your truss rod. So the top of the truss will sit flush with the top of the neck (before the fret board is fitted). So, if your building your 1st guitar, you must buy the truss rod and measure it before cutting the channel. I would recommend that you cut the channel a little shallower than measured, check the fit and then go deeper as required. Router bits: A cheap one will do since its internal and nobody will see it, so it does not matter if its not silky smooth. If you want to use that bit for lots of other stuff then get the best one you can afford. Personally I purchased a really cheap 30 bit kit from ebay. Not very good (they blunt and dent easily) but it allowed me to see which bits I used a lot and which ones I never used. I then went and purchased quality versions of the ones I used a lot. Good luck :)
Thanks for great videos, Chris. Hope you are well during these difficult days. Question: The guitar shown in this video has the truss rod channel routed right up into the headstock (if I am not mistaken), no doubt for access with an allen wrench. In another video you show how to drill for access, with the channel NOT cut above the nut (I believe). As I am in the process of slowly building my first strat neck, please indicate which construction you prefer. And, with the guitar shown in this video, did you fill in that channel on the headstock a bit? Or leave it as is?
No. I don't put anything in the slot that could interfere with the rod's function. The truss rods I use are wrapped and fit snug. Also, I'll slightly load the rod so it won't move. Not enough to bend the neck, but enough to keep it in place.
Advice for someone wanting to remove fret marker inlays, and "disguise" them as wood? I have a rosewood fingerboard with white inlays. I want to make the fingerboard look like theres no fret markers.
If the markers are round, drill them out and cut some plugs from a similar piece of Rosewood with a plug cutter to fill the holes. Sand flush and finish with some tung oil.
I Just Want To Ask A Question... Q. How Come You're Not Putting A Thin Layer of Protection Over The Fingerboard. In Wood Shop Class, I Was Taught To Protect The Wood From Receiving Any Type of Dent or Dents From Occurring When Using Clamps of Any Type, Especially When Applying Pressure To Join Two Pieces of Wood.
Spring clamps like he is using don't exert enough pressure to dent hardwoods commonly used in luthiery. Further, his clamp faces have a rubbery cover where they contact the wood. What you learned is correct, especially when working softwood and especially as a student. But the style of clamp and hardness of maple and rosewood make it unnecessary.
I have seen a few videos from luthiers that have suggested adding a little bit of pre-bend to a neck due to the fact that "it makes your truss rod work better and more precisely" ... what are your thoughts?
EVERY woodworker needs to know the salt trick! But - using only several to a half dozen grains of salt does the same job, and is easier to compress when clamping hardwoods. Too much salt could result in a GAP w/ hard woods like ebony onto maple. Not an issue w/ softwoods.
As long as none of the grains are right at the edge, they won't show. Keep in mind that the salt grains won't move as clamping pressure is applied. Instead, they dig into the wood and act as a cleat.
Since the sides of the neck and fretboard have an identical tapered dimension, the position is automatic. Scale length is determined by the placement of the bridge relative to the position of the nut and the 12th fret after the neck is installed into the body. Intonation is set by adjusting the position of the bridge saddles.
Chris is so knowable and a really good communicator. He has a PhD in luthiery. :)
Thank you so much for your videos. they really are very easy to understand and immeasurably helpful for us rookie builders. The process can get super frustrating at times but you advice always seems to turn things around. Thanks again.
Mr. Boudreau…I just wanted to say that I really appreciate this video and your wisdom and willingness to share. I just glued up a fingerboard to a neck that I had to replace the truss rod on ……it was my first time and I think it went pretty well. I pretty much copied everything you did. I’m sitting here looking at it and I just wanted to say thanks. Larry in az
Who is Mr. Boudreau?
9 minute video, 3 very useful tips. Thanks! I have an old Japanese Jazz bass copy with a non functioning truss rod that I need to replace and this will come in handy for putting everything back together again.
That's good advice on the squeezeout. You can also take like a minute and simply tape off the edge of the neck, so no glue even touches it. Not very difficult, a straight line and some tape.
Chris, thanks so much for freely sharing your guitar building knowledge and techniques with us. I watch and rewatch everything you've put on UA-cam, so educational. I've purchased a few of your plans and am about to jump off into the rabbit hole of guitar making.
Love the salt tip, that was a new one for me. Amen on leaving squeeze out alone, it's so much easier to leave it alone then deal with it after drying.
I clicked on "Like" at 999, now it's 1k. It made me feel special. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 😀👍
I was the first one on your comment !
Loved this video- I really appreciate the commentary on common techniques and misconceptions about this process. I’ve read 3 books that include this subject and your video here surmises the best advice of all 3!
Thanks for your time and effort in putting this together!
Salt trick and squeeze out management are true top tips. Thanx from the Netherlands.
Always good advice. Also high pressure clamping can distort the wood just enough to create an open joint. If your mating surfaces are perfect, very little pressure is needed for the perfect closed joint. Great stuff.
Thank you
Building my first guitar...
Classical... and that salt trick was the wonderful blessing...
I did not put any on then when i went to clamp it... slide... slip...
I rolled my eyes and ran to the kitchen and quickly returned ant that did the trick....
Thanks once again
Excellent tips in the video, thanks!
Salt…great tip. I watched this awhile ago and use this for all kinds of high surface area glueups now
Thank you so much for your information!! Very helpful!!
I know you probably don't run into this on a new build but, I had to pull the fretboard off of a neck because it was separating, after I got it apart it was pretty apparent that the wood around the truss rod adjuster has gotten some type of oil soaked into it, the rest of the glue was kind of crystalized so it separated easily. Want to try and save the neck and fretboard and prep the neck and fretboard with something to draw the oil out, would Naphtha suffice?
Without knowing what the oil is, it's kind of hard to say.
I'm building my first guitar, and this video was very helpful. Thank you for the content. Perhaps we could get in contact sometime, because I'm a baby luthier, looking to get into building custom guitars, and could use a solid wisdom base.
Answered a lot of questions I had about gluing the fingerboard to the neck blank. Thanks. You made my job free of a mess of headaches.
Great tutorial!
That's interesting I've never seen anyone use salt to add grit to their glue to keep the pieces from slipping. I'll have to try this on my stringered neck blanks. For fretboards I have index pins through the fret slots at the 1st and 17th frets to keep it from moving while gluing.
I think pins are the way to go. I don't know how I'd feel about grains of anything in between the two surfaces, even if harmless. I avoid anything that reduces vibration and it seems like having pockets of material imbued in the wood/hardened glue would influence the overall vibe negatively, simply because of a density differences.. If there were a way to apply the grains uniformly, then I might feel better about it. 🤷♂️
Which glue is used to join the fretboard to the neck? Can I use Araldite?
I tried using Fevicol bu eventually it gave up to string pressure slowly ripping the fretboard off of neck.
@@anujkolhe5611 use titebond original (the red label)
@@andrewgrossman6066 Okay. I'll give it a try. Thank you!
This just seems like more of the same, over complicating things. Do what you want but I see no reason to compromise your glue with a foreign chemical. Gluing on a fretboard is not that difficult. Even the slippiest glue tacks up soon enough. Align one end, clamp it, align the other, clamp it, clamp the middle, adjusting as you go. Dial in the clamping pressure from the center towards the ends and you're golden. I've used fish glue with great results. Starts off tacky with plenty of time to make adjustments. Taping over the truss rod is stupid too. If you're only using a thin layer of glue to minimize squeeze out, why reduce the glue contact area with tape? A tiny amount of glue in the truss rod slot won't hurt. Some of these builders over think and complicate a fairly simple concept. They're guitars, not space shuttles.
Great video.
Sadly, my fretboard became separated from the neck, but luckily it was only the first 4 frets. My question is, what are those clamps called so I can purchase them, and what is the proper name for that neck cradle so I can buy everything I need to do it myself? Thank you!
Neck Support Caul: www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/tools-by-job/tools-for-necks-and-fingerboards/neck-support-caul/
Qick Realease Clamp: www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/clamps-vises/6-inch-bar-clamp-96210.html
Thanks for the salt trick!
Totally ! :)
Someone out there would be able to tell us
(a) the brand and grain size of the salt Leo Fender used and
(b) that they can identify the tone that the Very Special Salt imparts to the instruments.
Beautiful fret board!
Hi Chris. On my first full build at the moment and your knowledge and the videos you post are so helpful and thoughtfully made. Cheers from the UK👍
Oh, man. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and skill. That's very generous of you. Looking for tips for my first build. Gonna purchase the body already shaped and cut but want to try a few things with the neck and this was absolutely helpful. Thanks again.
Good points. I plan on doing this to my 1st neck build here in a couple weeks. Very timely.
Thanks.
Chris Good video , is it nescessarily that the trussrod is in contact with the fretboard?. Some luthiers put a strip of wood above the trussrod, flush with the guitarneck.Is it possible with veneer?
I've seen a few videos of guys doing DIY kits. They get these great tops with a thin veneer of flamed maple. They go to try and leather dye stain that top, and the dye won't soak in. Is that due to the worker at the factory wiping the excess glue quickly?
Veneer is so thin, the glue is forced through to the surface as it is pressure laminated to the body.
No way! thanks for the reply Chris. I'm talking my wife into the CNC machine you have. Thanks for the great vids man! I used to live in Colorado Springs. Cheers from Arizona.@@HighlineGuitars
How do you determine WHERE on the neck. How high up the board is ??
Thank Chris the table salt is genius! My book has me drilling a hole in the 13th fret for an anchor brad. That didn't sit well with me.
Thanks for sharing. I think I saw you did not use a thin piece of wood above the truss rod. Is this necessery needed?
What about the line of the neck and the truss rod nut when setting up for gluing…? Does anyone put a bit of back bow into the neck and have the truss rod nut only just on when clamping…?
That salt trick works really well. It does keep the two pieces from skating around on each other while clamping.
hello, first time builder here, but i built several horsebows..
thanks for your time, really educative.
during gluing operations, we use to rake the wood with a metal saw blade so we are sure the glue perfectly penetrates the surface.
do you think it would work or not ? thank you.
Do you do anything to anchor the truss rod in the channel? Or do you just drop the rod in there and glue the fingerboard?
The latter.
@@HighlineGuitars Didn’t know it was that easy! Thank you
my Gibson junior epiphone les Pauls fret board has gap a pick can enter.? ! at high e plays great. can a truss rod force board up? 2nd fret to 8th fret
Thanks for the tips, love your vids! Can you tell me what type of varnish you use on the neck/fingerboard please. Thank you!
A small amount of boiled linseed oil with a drop or two of Japan Dryer.
I have a mini fret board peeling from the neck. I turned down the truss rod pressure so everyrhing looks straight but seperated. Should i seperate the fretboard completely and try to reglue the board back on or should isqueeze some glue inbetween and hope for the best
I think that would be a good question for someone who does repair work.
Where did you buy the long magnet for hanging your tools
Harbor Freight
Thanks for the tips and woodworking" kinks". Great video.
I'm not putting salt between by fretboard and neck when gluing. That's asking for trouble. You're right about letting squeeze-out dry and chiseling it off!
It's only a few grains in a few spots. It won't cause any problems and is a technique that has been used for years. Do a test on some scrap to see for yourself.
I have a guitar that the fretboard separate from the neck not completely but the from the first 3rd fret. The rest of the fretboard is still glued to the neck. Can I use like elmer's carpenter wood glue to glue them or it have to be tiebond glue. Thanks!
Elmer's carpenter glue is the same stuff as Titebond, so it will work fine.
@@HighlineGuitars Thank you very much!
I had never heard the salt thing, that's a really neat idea. I imagine it dissolves into the glue as it dries? You may have even said this in the video. If so, I apologize. Damn ADD.
How do you know how to line up the fretboard when you glue it on? Doesn't it have to be precise?
Line it up to what? Precise to what?
@@HighlineGuitars The fretboard must line up to the bridge and pick ups by distance and angle.
@@supremoluminary That’s the beauty of CNC. Alignment is automatic.
You didn't discuss how you align the fretboard before gluing. Do you use some type of temporary nut to push against - or some other method?
I line up the edges of the fretboard with the edges of the neck. Same shape. No fancy alignment needed.
Hi Chris, i always read the other comments and answers first, before i ask a question. This answered it all ( most ) . I wanted to ask, if you have hypotheticly no plan, no nut placement indication, where exactly do i glue the fretboard on ? The taper is a good answer, but you can have also a square blank and fretboard, but then you can determine more related to the scalelenght. If removing and reglueing.. that was my main question actually, how to determine where ? The 12th fret ! Great answer ! I thought, to make on the side a marking where the nut ends. But i have one more important question. I have a TOKAI SG with binding on the neck and the trussrod is with no any means or tricks possible to MOVE. Totaly jammed up.. Now, should i be able to remove the fretboard WITH binding without damaging the binding and reuse after new trussrod install ? Any tips ? Thanks so much Chris ! Greets from Belgium.
To get a truss rod freed up, you first want to remove the strings, then clamp the neck down in a way that introduces a little backbow into it. sort of reverse-relief, as it were. This will assure that the tension rod is relaxed. Then, insert the adjusting tool into the adjuster for the tension rod, and carefully try to TIGHTEN it a bit. This alone will often break it free. Use just enough force to put some firm torgue on the rod adjuster, so long as you keep in mind you don't want to break the rod, strip the threads, or tear out the anchor. Hold the torque on it for half a minute or so, as sometimes the rod adjuster is slowly creeping loose while this is being done. Next, try torquing in the opposite direction in the same overall manner. Doing this several times, in one direction & then the other, can often break the cold-fused adjuster loose, & enable the rod to function properly again. Additionally, you can try tapping on the wrench with a mallet or a small hammer as you apply torque. That can get the adjuster to 'pop' loose, sometimes. You can also try some spray contact cleaner, but be sure to use the type that LEAVES NO RESIDUE. If you can access the adjuster, spray the cleaner directly on it and then go right to work at attempting to twist the wrench as I described. Exercise caution & use patience. I hope this will help. If not, there's really only two or three choices for what to do next. One, you can remove all the frets & re-level the fretboard, or, Two, you 'll need to remove the fretboard to service or replace the stuck rod. Third, if the amount of bow or relief is only slightly off, you can sometimes get by with just leveling & re-crowning the frets, but that's sort of a band-aid that doesn't actually fix what's wrong, and if the tension rod issue is ever properly corrected in the future, the guitar would then need a new fret job, same as it would if the fretboard was leveled to compensate for a stuck rod. The only way to do a proper repair, if the rod simply won't move no matter what, is to remove the fretboard & deal with the tension rod directly.
what type of would is the fretboard? Looks great
That salt trick is so cool!!
Is your fretboard radiused? I noticed you didn't use a clamping caul and I was wondering if it is OK to not use one on a radiused fretboard. Great video, many thanks
It's always best to use a clamping caul. However, I didn't have one long enough for this neck and I opted to clamp without one. Not the best choice, but it worked okay.
Hi Chris, thanks for the informative video. Some very practical tips there! I was wondering why you decide to clamp the two parts without a reference support over the entire length. It seems to me that this makes you risk losing the straightness of your original parts. Wouldn't it be wise to support the fretboard side with a rigid, straight support? Especially considering your approach on trying to avoid leveling your fretwork. Would like to hear your thoughts on this.
C# Customs I thought the same thing. I probably wouldn’t put the clamp directly on the wood to prevent marring the surface either
Does salt weaken the glue: This is a question I asked myself after watching this video (good video by the way). So, I looked around. A glue expert from tightbond is quoted as saying that salt or sugar can react with the glue and weaken the bond. However, some people have done (semi scientific) testing and in all tests the wood failed before the glue did. So IMO, the answer is, salt may weaken the bond but not enough to be of any concern since the glue is still stronger than the surrounding wood. That said just use a bit as shown in this video :)
Of course Titebond will say that. They have to be thoughtful about their warranty. I’ve never had an issue with salt weakening the glue and I have had to remove a few.
I did my first neck, i proceeded without any problem. When i assemble it and play, i noticed a big problem which is truss rod rattle. It vibrates and disturb the player so much. I definitely didnt work coarse but dont know where the clearance is. What can i do to prevent this on my next? Does silicone filling or sth else work?
Just give the truss rod nut a couple of turns. Not enough to move the neck, but just enough to bend the rod so it will press against the top and bottom of the channel, and that will eliminate the rattle.
My first solution trial was also the same but it didnt work.
@@mertakgun8209 Sounds like somethings wrong with the rod or you have way too much slop between the rod and the channel. Routing to a closer tolerance the next time will help Also, you can wrap the rod in Teflon plumber's tape to get a tighter fit.
It may be. Thanks for the teflon tape advice i will use on my next.
Heat shrink on the rod.
Plummer's tape on the rod.
Thin bits of cork are lightly pressed into the walls of the slot and the rod (not advisable for several reasons). I was told styrofoam (polystyrene) is used also (again, not advisable).
Demand improved workmanship from yourself, set a higher standard of expectations, and commit to holding a tighter tolerance on the slot dimensions.
A moderately generous dollop of caulk at each end, and one in the middle of the length, of the slot.
I often glue a thin strip of the neck wood on top of the slot, setting this piece on to shallow and narrow shoulders milled into the neck. The slot is milled to a depth which includes the thickness of this piece of wood, which is also the depth of the shoulder (I have heard other guitar builders, Luthiers, claim that they use epoxy to glue the fretboard to the neck and will glue the middle of the truss rod to either the underside of the fretboard or the underside of the narrow strip of wood glued on top of the truss rod slot, but I never had anyone explain why they would do this).
Wrap a thick, wide rubber band, or several small, narrow rubber bands, around each end of the truss rod.
As for locating the fretboard, I rely on my machinist/process engineer background, and I use small case hardened dowel pins in an off-cut area which is removed after glue up. I used to use, and occasionally still do yours a fixture which has a pocket that fits the profile of the neck and fretboard to a tight tolerance (one of many advantages of using a vertical mill, whether in CNC or manual mode, to cut dimensions to a degree of accuracy and precision which 99.9% of human beings cannot touch with any hand tools).
I've also milled a shallow slot into the underside of the fretboard, which precisely, and accurately matches the location and width of the shoulders milled into the neck to fit the strip of neck wood inserted above the truss rod. The thin strip of wood is obviously cut to a matching width, and a thickness to match the depth of the milled shoulders plus the depth of the slot milled into the underside of the fretboard. This strip of wood now functions as key that is set into matching keyways. This is a very sound design principle for accurately locating two mating components, commonly used on precision ground shafts and pulleys, gears, bearing components, etc.
Would it help to tape off the edge of the neck under the fret board to catch any squeeze out ?
Sir thanx for this video. I have a probleem glueing. After glueing there is a gab (1 mm apr.) between the fretboard and neck from fret 12 to 19. ( i build in leds)... what would you suggest?..ireing so glue melts? Than clamp again?...or sand chape the fretboard?
Please tell us how deep the rod channel has to be routed ???
...and also tell us which router bits are best to use ??
like Diablo brand or deWalt or Ryobi ....please tell us !!
thanks
Since its been 2 months and you have not had an answer, I'll try to help you. The depth of the truss rod channel will be identical to the depth of your truss rod. So the top of the truss will sit flush with the top of the neck (before the fret board is fitted). So, if your building your 1st guitar, you must buy the truss rod and measure it before cutting the channel. I would recommend that you cut the channel a little shallower than measured, check the fit and then go deeper as required. Router bits: A cheap one will do since its internal and nobody will see it, so it does not matter if its not silky smooth. If you want to use that bit for lots of other stuff then get the best one you can afford. Personally I purchased a really cheap 30 bit kit from ebay. Not very good (they blunt and dent easily) but it allowed me to see which bits I used a lot and which ones I never used. I then went and purchased quality versions of the ones I used a lot. Good luck :)
Thanks for great videos, Chris. Hope you are well during these difficult days. Question: The guitar shown in this video has the truss rod channel routed right up into the headstock (if I am not mistaken), no doubt for access with an allen wrench. In another video you show how to drill for access, with the channel NOT cut above the nut (I believe). As I am in the process of slowly building my first strat neck, please indicate which construction you prefer. And, with the guitar shown in this video, did you fill in that channel on the headstock a bit? Or leave it as is?
I prefer routing the slot as opposed to drilling it. I cover the headstock portion of the slot with a custom made truss rod cover.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks. So, since you are my online luthier god, I shall do the same!
Thanks. Nice video. Any thoughts on indexing pins?
Salt is easier, faster, and it's like a miniature indexing pin.
@@HighlineGuitars good to know.
Do you put anything in truss rod cavity? I heard silicon so the actual truss rod doesn’t rattle. What is your method?
No. I don't put anything in the slot that could interfere with the rod's function. The truss rods I use are wrapped and fit snug. Also, I'll slightly load the rod so it won't move. Not enough to bend the neck, but enough to keep it in place.
no one talks about lining it up? does it not matter if you're a mm or 2 forward or backward do you just correct this with the bridge?
I correct any fretboard positioning errors when I determine the placement of the bridge. I may do my next Quick Tips video about this.
Advice for someone wanting to remove fret marker inlays, and "disguise" them as wood? I have a rosewood fingerboard with white inlays. I want to make the fingerboard look like theres no fret markers.
If the markers are round, drill them out and cut some plugs from a similar piece of Rosewood with a plug cutter to fill the holes. Sand flush and finish with some tung oil.
I Just Want To Ask A Question...
Q. How Come You're Not Putting A Thin Layer of Protection Over The Fingerboard.
In Wood Shop Class, I Was Taught To Protect The Wood From Receiving Any Type of Dent or Dents
From Occurring When Using Clamps of Any Type, Especially When Applying Pressure To Join Two
Pieces of Wood.
Spring clamps like he is using don't exert enough pressure to dent hardwoods commonly used in luthiery. Further, his clamp faces have a rubbery cover where they contact the wood.
What you learned is correct, especially when working softwood and especially as a student. But the style of clamp and hardness of maple and rosewood make it unnecessary.
Hello sir what is the correct thickness of the fretboard?
Slightly thicker than the fret tang.
I have seen a few videos from luthiers that have suggested adding a little bit of pre-bend to a neck due to the fact that "it makes your truss rod work better and more precisely" ... what are your thoughts?
I think a lot of luthiers try to differentiate themselves by making up stuff.
Randy Rev I’ve seen that as well. I think however the pre-bend is used mostly for one-way truss rod applications.
you the man! Thanks!!
what if we have a solid paint
Salt! Thanks for the tip!!
The best video di far on this topic.
That fretboard is beautiful. is it chechen?
Yep.
I'm one of those guys who always grabbed a damp rag for glue squeeze out. Not any more! Thanks for the tip!👍😎🎸🎶
Mr too!
Thank you so much. Great video!
What is the name that glue ?
I like removable truss rods.At any point I can remove the truss rod
EVERY woodworker needs to know the salt trick! But - using only several to a half dozen grains of salt does the same job, and is easier to compress when clamping hardwoods. Too much salt could result in a GAP w/ hard woods like ebony onto maple. Not an issue w/ softwoods.
There are different salt grain sizes. Which one to use?
Excellent thanks.
great video as always !! :)
Yeah ! Thanks for the salt trick !Great Vid. ! :)
thank you
you could have gotten free chicken burgers tho!
U don’t use hide glue?
Shimon Ben LouLou no, it’s the 21st century.
I see
Have you ever had any salt come out to the edge of the fretboard where it could be seen ?
As long as none of the grains are right at the edge, they won't show. Keep in mind that the salt grains won't move as clamping pressure is applied. Instead, they dig into the wood and act as a cleat.
Highline Guitars got it, thanks!
Посолил, поперчил и немного майонеза ))
You did not show how to position the fingerboard on the neck. Scale length and intonation will depend on it. Won't it?
Since the sides of the neck and fretboard have an identical tapered dimension, the position is automatic. Scale length is determined by the placement of the bridge relative to the position of the nut and the 12th fret after the neck is installed into the body. Intonation is set by adjusting the position of the bridge saddles.
I am trying to replace the existing fingerboard with a new one. Any tips?
Make sure the 12th fret of the new fretboard will be positioned exactly where the 12th fret of the old fretboard was on the neck.
Kosher?