Fysetc has already informed me that the printed parts issue was a problem from months ago that they have corrected. I cannot confirm this as I can only review what I was provided, but wanted to put out the message they sent.
I've also purchased the kit with printed parts a couple months back, I haven't had the same issues with the printed parts or config, my kit came with heatsinks, and there was an included panel for the ethernet and USB extensions at the back of the machine! super happy with it so far but definitely would like to upgrade the hotend!
Great video as always Alan. This is decent kit for the money if they improve the printed parts, and I was impressed by their products when I toured their facility! Love these videos. I’ll admit it. I kinda want to build one… but i definitely don’t need a 4th Voron
You always seem to amaze me with the unique thinks like the backpanel. From what I've seen so far, almost every printer you've build is unique in some sense. Awesome job and love the detailed review!
Thank you. I try to keep it different on every project. I don't want a fleet of the same machines over and over again. These things are where I get my chances to test new & different methods / hardware so I have to change things.
For anyone wanting to purchase the v0.2 fysetc kit, I advise to wait for when fysetc puts it up for sale at 245-290 usd depending on your location. I got mine in the summer of 2023 for 245 usd without printed parts.
My Fysetc v0.1 had the same whine, fixed it by enabling stealthchop on the z-stepper. TMC autotune does have some of the Fysetc steppers in the database, but is a bit fiddly to set up when using sensorless homing (e.g. homing speed > rotation distance of A/B steppers).
Great video! pretty much the same experience we had. We even got the same debug config file on ours :) the klipper_tmc_autotune script does a great job of quieting the motors down btw
With all the options on the market I feel like the Siboor kit might be the best value if you want printed parts included. Especially considering they have the option of picking colours for the frame and printed parts. If you're going with printing your own parts this kit seems like decent value if you can get free or cheap shipping. All these kit makers seem to be competing to provide the best value kit available and improving the quality of parts in the kit all the time, so a big win for us 3d printing nerds 😂
My Fysetc voron 2.4 kit had the cheapest quality rails and rusty screws drenched in oil. I didn't know any better and built the printer anyway and ended up with a ton of layer shifts.. After a ton of troubleshooting, I finally narrowed it down to rails but I would hesitate to buy a Fysetc kit.
A german youtuber had the same problem with the noises and found out that the cause was the stepper drivers. on the one hand, the motor currents are too high in the default configuration, on the other hand, he then replaced them with BTT 2209 drivers and the noises were gone.
Purchased mine with printed parts in the January 2024 winter sale, shipped to Wisconsin for 367 after coins/coupons on Aliexpress. It shipped from a US warehouse. Printed parts were all correct and without issue. The back skirt with port access was included. Everything is printing well although I think I have a little bit of y binding and my y acceleration rec is only 11700 while x is 18k
I'm tuning this printer as I watch this. I thought the blue parts print quality was awesome! I've input shaped at the nozzle and get 25k accels with virtually no vibrations. Just waiting on a High Flow 0.4 nozzle from E3D :) Now, whether or not to replace the toolhead with a Dragon Burner? Thanks for donating it to the SMRRF raffle!
just the video i needed! i cant wait to build my first voron.. i wish i could be in your shoes and build a couple a year! i just gotta work super hard to try and get where you are printer wise! :D your collection (that ive seen) is awesome!! I cannot wait till i can afford my voron.. just waitin till i get enough bones, i told myself ima buy it for me when i hit one year sober and thats coming up in 2 days.. just need more money though.. when i finally get one i am gonna start making videos! :D Thank you for your videos coach!!:) i love em and really enjoy them!
I wonder if the TMC Auto tune has these motors in their DB? I've heard with the tuning set to auto can help with whine and general noise. The catalyst board is pretty interesting. The concept of a board for a specific DIY machine has some merit. Much easier wiring and cable management. The A/B motors plug into the board NEAR where they're located. That's something that printers with fully custom boards don't even do. A lot of small but nice value adds in this kit.
I have this exact set (minus the printed parts). I had lots of issues with the board: it was running an old klipper version and once updating the software at the linux level it wanted to also update the MCU firmware.... And finding the docs on how to do that was a total pain. Bits and pieces of docs scattered over 2 or 3 places. In the end figured that out, only to be greeted by 178c on ALL thermistors after 2 days of otherwise OK printing. So I gave up on it and swapped it out for a Manta M5P. Some kudos to Fysetc though: they did a few checks with me and then decided to send me a new Catalyst which arrived fairly quickly. I'm just not going to use it any time soon. After swapping the board the very very short cables on the motors are actually a bit of a pain. Got it to fit, but.... could be better. Besides those niggles, I have been VERY VERY happy with this kit. And now I've got a very very good deal on a Fysetc Voron 2.4 kit 😁
Ohw... As an after thought: the Catalyst board does claim to support CANbus too, just never got around to it. And I found the startup times for the board to be frustratingly long.
i got myself a Fystec Trident rev 1.1 ( After burner, 1.2 is their SB version it seems) i was suprised at how good the kit was, everything was included looked high quality, the wiring diagram was easy to read, all cables where precrimped ( no need for those wago shenanigans) dragon High flow included ( original one )
I bought a Fysetc 0.1 kit a while ago (without printed parts) and I've been super happy with it. My only gripe with that was that the sd card they shipped with pre configured klipper died after literally one power up and finding the recommended configs for the machine was a little dicey. Did end up finding it buried in github, but the hardware on that one was great. The extruder and the bowden tube were a little janky though like you mentioned. Plan to replace mine once it strips out eventually.
I agree with the wining motor noise. I also have problem with the I2C connection to the display. Whenever I try to use the encode it might hang the bus. I recently got a USB one with which I will replace it. I have had an extruder clog - not to say that fysetc is to blame, but I trashed my board by unplugging the head connector without powering down. Motors and heater was turned off - guess that is because of the accelerometer. Waiting for a new board, the MCU won’t show up on USB anymore. Will also replace the controller on that board, but ordered a new board to be safe. Had to order it with the CM68, which is not pin compatible with a pi computer module, so you are stuck with their board. But I think you can remvoe the CM68 and use the MCU via USB with any other kind of board. The preinstalled config - that annoyed me as well. Also the gantry nut assembly. I wasn’t aware of that printed part and had some fun time to place nuts in the gantry with tweezers. Thank you for explaining me why I have extrusions left over. Thought about the gantry beam, but missed the bed assembly. That umbilical cable - I hate it. It looks solid either way the glue, havn’t noticed any glue problem yet, but the cable is stiff, which together with he lightweight gantry… The most annoying part however is that is doesn’t fit within the top hat. I’m using the waiting time for my new board to increase the top hat height. I considered reolacing it with CAN, but didn’t want to spend too much time crimping new canles for the CAN PCB I have available. That said, the catalyst board includes a CAN connector which is really nice, but only useable if you use the CM68.
Hey the noise is probably cause of their bad stepstics - a german influencer replaced them by BTT2209. A big warning about the soc/compute module part of the mainboard: If you corrupt the linix on the onboard emmc you will have a bad time. I highly recomme d that you make an update video where you try to reflash linux on it. It will be a harder time since you do not habe a display output but maybe a uart header but explaining a newbee this recovery procedure will be hard. Sidenode: The catalyst has a CAN port
In thier newest kit the 1.1 They seemed to have taken your advice and upgraded the umbilical cord as well as include heatsinks in the box. also they went to stainless rails.
I can confirm these changes. The umbelical in particular has been changed into a CAN sort of toolhead instead. It's a very soft silicone cable. Furthermore, they have upgraded the hotend to something along the lines of Bambu hotend clone with dragon mounting points, as well as include the CNC pom gear by default. I noticed they have seemed to address all issues you've raised in this video!
There's no way that wiring harness is going to survive long-term. Maybe if it was super high quality fine strand wire and was properly strain relieved at each end but I bet you're going to start having problems with it within a couple hundred hours.
Unless you want to feel some major frustration I don't recommend updating your Klipper version. It was a NIGHTMARE trying to update the MCU after I corrupted the Klipper install and updated everything....
I did it today. Wish I’d done it before I finished this video so I could have included it. It went really smoothly for me, but required a bit of experience to get it done.
I really really really want to build one of these more custom printers. I have an ender 5 + so if I didn’t care about the money I’d love to copy your Mercury 1 Zero G build I think I’ll end up doing a little Voron tho, the price is a little easier to swallow.
Honestly, getting a Voron 0 build under your belt before you tackle the Zero-G would be a good idea anyway. The Mercury One is GREAT but the instructions still aren't there. So having experience with a machine that is a bit better documented will really help you understand everything that is going on with the Mercury One.
About tge tinnitus like tone, it comes from the stepping and interpolation of the drivers. My bigtreetech drivers (2209 as well as 2226) and moons motors do the same at certain positions. For it to go away, use stealthchop (attention, speed limit) or switch the Interpolation setting
There is magnetic stainless steel it contains enough more ferrite or martensite, Maryensitic stainless steel can be hardened so better for linear rails/rods. When you see linear rods with grooves from the ball bearings those rods are probably cheaper 304 or 316 stainless steel.
Is this a kit that a beginner would be able to do? I love what you get for the price. Really love the design/look of it as well. Im just worried its begond my capabilities.
I’d love to build myself a voron to print filaments that require an enclosure… if my wife wouldn’t kill me for buying another printer, this seems the perfect unit.
It looks like they are only charging about $45 for the printed parts, the PIF route would cost about double that. So, they must have been cutting corners there.
Or just get the Ldo kit. A little bit more $ but with a lot of good parts. Like the revo hot end, a real rpi, a very good heater etc. cost less then a fysec kit upgraded.
Is that actually something they are selling or just a one-off they made? I retweeted it on Twitter so I saw it. It is... strange. The world's fastest V0 uses the BOM pair of just 2 Nema 14 motors. I don't really know that I understand the logic at play in the way SIBOOR has that setup. Fun? Sure. Logical & really useful? .... Yea idk.
Is the Fysetc V0.2 any cheaper than Formbot's kit? From what I can tell it's either the same price or more expensive than Formbot's kit, and Formbot is considered to be slightly higher quality...
I haven’t built a Formbot kit to give input. Right now the price is more for the Fysetc but I’ve seen it on sale for less. So who knows what the months I’ll bring.
Revo Voron will give you a ton of ability to swap around, at a premium price. Dragon HF is what I have in my 0.1. I’m limited by mechanical issues but not at all by flowrate. It can flow faster than mine can move right now. Dragon HF: tinyurl.com/3DHubDragonHF Revo Voron: shrsl.com/4b04j
I haven’t built a Formbot machine so I cannot speak to the difference. I’d watch out for sales on Fysetc. Folks have noted they got their kits cheaper than they currently are.
Hey man....I'm currently rebuilding everything in the chamber on my v2.4,I've been recommended beefy front and z idlers. I got about 3500 hours on this machine before I got one z idler cracking and one front idler cracking. Should I just go cnc or is it ok to go 5 walls /50 % infill on all the chamber motion stuff? Extra question,do you have any xp with quality ceramic bearings or are those just fugazi?
I haven't run the ceramic bearings yet. My next 2 builds (a v0 & v2.4) I'll be running them to see what I think. You can go higher wall count (Infill won't make much of a difference) to increase strength, but yes I'd recommend the beefy designs. The stock idler design is "Meh" to me. I'll be doing beefy on the next 2.4. The only problem with the CNC parts is you are stuck with the color they provide. That's the thing I dislike about them. I MAY go CNC on the next 2.4 just to test it out though.
Hard to say. I’m largely of the opinion that a lot is cheaper overall. You can find individual parts cheaper but then you often pay tax & shipping on individual transactions. That quickly defeats the savings of those individual parts. Combine that with missing small parts here or there. Despite your best planning you’ll often miss something. Or maybe the part you need is only available in multiples. Things kits take care of. I self sourced my first 2 Vorons and I won’t do it again. From here on it’s kits for me. I’ll buy the additional parts I want and maybe end up with some quality spare parts for future projects or maintenance.
@@MandicReally Thanks, i dont expect as fast answer. Maybe one more question - formbot now have very cheap kit in my region (Europe - 429$ with dragon high flow, no parts - i can print it better), so, better formbot kit or siboor/fysetc?
@@zbigniewwielgus1249 I haven't used a Formbot kit to say. I have just not had good luck with the Siboor kits so I cannot recommend them. The Fysetc kit I was largely happy with but the electronics weren't my favorite. For the price and with a good hotend (I like the Dragon HF), that sounds like a good price to me and I'd give it a go.
@@zbigniewwielgus1249 I haven't used a Formbot kit to say. I have just not had good luck with the Siboor kits so I cannot recommend them. The Fysetc kit I was largely happy with but the electronics weren't my favorite. For the price and with a good hotend (I like the Dragon HF), that sounds like a good price to me and I'd give it a go.
@@MandicReally yeah I watched that and it was before the a1 mini came out, so A1 mini with AMS or Budget Voron 0.2 kit you build? Yes I know material choices are much more with the Voron however AMS. Yes I know a kit is a learning experience, but out of the box setup time to print is long and could end in suffering vs the A1. Do you really gain that much with the Voron over the competition? 3D printing is getting mainstream and as it does the Vorons of the world will be more niche.
@@mobilechaosyt materials is the key. The A1 bed is limited to 80C. Not nearly enough for ABS, ASA, Nylon, etc. No enclosed chamber is another mark against it for prototyping type work. The A1 mini makes WAY more sense for the majority of users, but folks like me who work with materials other than PLA, it’s a non-starter.
A couple questions: What do you think of that bed frame vs the Kirigami? And do you think it's worth upgrading a Voron 0.1 to 0.2? Or are there any parts in particular that you'd upgrade?
I’ve held off updating my 0.1 until now. Even then I’m only doing it because it needs some disassembly for maintenance. The number 1 upgrade of the 0.2 over the 0.1 to me is the Mini-StealthBurner. It has a superior Extruder design, and well all around better design. In my opinion. If I had a 0.1 I was considering upgrading, I’d just do the Toolhead and associated pieces and leave the rest. Almost every part is changed but not in drastic ways. The skirts of the 0.2 look a lot nicer too. That’s an easy cosmetic change though. I did that on my 0.1 months ago. I’m not a big fan of the extrusion top hat. Yes it’s superior to the fixed 0.1 too hat, but I have a hinged 0.1 top hat I’m happy with. The latching mechanism on the 0.2 top hat is still questionable to me sadly.
@@MandicReally Ah, thanks! I already went with a mini-after-sherpa and a sailfin extruder, so I don't feel the need to upgrade there. And did the top hat. Seems like I can just stop wondering about the rest. :)
Oh and on the bed frame. Purely from a feel standpoint, the CNC bed frame feels more solid. However not so much that I care to change the bed on my 0.1 when I do the update. The Kirigami is plenty fine.
Thanks! It certainly looks more solid, which is why I wondered. I can't really complain about my kirigami at the moment, but it just looked like a solid bit of kit, so I couldn't help but be tempted.
No disrespect to companies selling kits......but for 400+ seems like they are for the sake of building a printer and not for a practical need. Especially if the extruder is not top quality.
I bought an X1C from Bambu. It lasted 513 hours before the bed warped so bad it now refuses to print. It's now a $1600 doorstop waiting for Bambu to process a support ticket.
$500 WTF that gantry looks weak no solid parts ,Structural should be as thick as you can make it ,Caps, fearings an what not do 5-7% infill ....Man im glad i bought a Neptune Just works ,Some of these garage days printers are going to die out soon .. like none really wants to put build there own Xbox .just turn it on an go with some setup of course ...these Vorons an Sovols are like Mad max Printers built from scrape , if the Parts are Printed they should be at least strong and work without falling apart ...$500 for something that tried to self suicide ...Naaahhhh
Thank you very much. No I do not have a Discord. I'm too easily distractable and work... a lot, so I cannot justify yet another place where my time & energy would have to go. Maybe if I can get to a point where I can have an assistant to help out / manage things a little more. Thanks
@@MandicReally That's what I was curious about, as a UA-cam creator I love talking to other creators about their process. You're so polished, not sure if you'd want to chat at some point. I'm also doing some unique stuff with transparent filaments if you're interested in something different!
Fysetc has already informed me that the printed parts issue was a problem from months ago that they have corrected. I cannot confirm this as I can only review what I was provided, but wanted to put out the message they sent.
I've also purchased the kit with printed parts a couple months back, I haven't had the same issues with the printed parts or config, my kit came with heatsinks, and there was an included panel for the ethernet and USB extensions at the back of the machine! super happy with it so far but definitely would like to upgrade the hotend!
Great to here. I’ve had the kit since July so they must have done the needed updates. 👍🏻👍🏻
Great video as always Alan. This is decent kit for the money if they improve the printed parts, and I was impressed by their products when I toured their facility! Love these videos.
I’ll admit it. I kinda want to build one… but i definitely don’t need a 4th Voron
give it away 👺
I reached out to them after you and I talked about it, and it was a fun build!
You always seem to amaze me with the unique thinks like the backpanel. From what I've seen so far, almost every printer you've build is unique in some sense. Awesome job and love the detailed review!
Thank you. I try to keep it different on every project. I don't want a fleet of the same machines over and over again. These things are where I get my chances to test new & different methods / hardware so I have to change things.
That static motor sound is exactly the sound of my tinnitus
For anyone wanting to purchase the v0.2 fysetc kit, I advise to wait for when fysetc puts it up for sale at 245-290 usd depending on your location. I got mine in the summer of 2023 for 245 usd without printed parts.
what platform did you get it for that cheap?
@@Evwan hello sir, do you want to try Siboor voron 0.2 printer?
@@Evwan the fsyetc website
@@程娜-y3v if it's 245 USD without printed parts, sure
Wow that's like 50% off or more. It's the 11.11 sale right now I would have thought this would be the lowest price on anything from China.
My Fysetc v0.1 had the same whine, fixed it by enabling stealthchop on the z-stepper.
TMC autotune does have some of the Fysetc steppers in the database, but is a bit fiddly to set up when using sensorless homing (e.g. homing speed > rotation distance of A/B steppers).
Great video! pretty much the same experience we had. We even got the same debug config file on ours :) the klipper_tmc_autotune script does a great job of quieting the motors down btw
Good call, I didn't think about trying that. Worth a go.
UA-cam deserves a video collaboration between this guy and standup mathematician
With all the options on the market I feel like the Siboor kit might be the best value if you want printed parts included. Especially considering they have the option of picking colours for the frame and printed parts. If you're going with printing your own parts this kit seems like decent value if you can get free or cheap shipping. All these kit makers seem to be competing to provide the best value kit available and improving the quality of parts in the kit all the time, so a big win for us 3d printing nerds 😂
My Fysetc voron 2.4 kit had the cheapest quality rails and rusty screws drenched in oil. I didn't know any better and built the printer anyway and ended up with a ton of layer shifts.. After a ton of troubleshooting, I finally narrowed it down to rails but I would hesitate to buy a Fysetc kit.
Great video Alan, really liked it how you put this Voron together
A german youtuber had the same problem with the noises and found out that the cause was the stepper drivers. on the one hand, the motor currents are too high in the default configuration, on the other hand, he then replaced them with BTT 2209 drivers and the noises were gone.
Purchased mine with printed parts in the January 2024 winter sale, shipped to Wisconsin for 367 after coins/coupons on Aliexpress. It shipped from a US warehouse. Printed parts were all correct and without issue. The back skirt with port access was included. Everything is printing well although I think I have a little bit of y binding and my y acceleration rec is only 11700 while x is 18k
I'm tuning this printer as I watch this. I thought the blue parts print quality was awesome!
I've input shaped at the nozzle and get 25k accels with virtually no vibrations. Just waiting on a High Flow 0.4 nozzle from E3D :)
Now, whether or not to replace the toolhead with a Dragon Burner?
Thanks for donating it to the SMRRF raffle!
Alan, thanks for the great video and the truly excellent rear panel. Printing it now to replace my existing one 😊
The motor noise comes from the stepper drivers. Replacing them with proper ones for example by BTT will remove the noise.
TMC Autotune cleared it up. I’ve had it happens it BTT stepper drivers too.
just the video i needed! i cant wait to build my first voron.. i wish i could be in your shoes and build a couple a year! i just gotta work super hard to try and get where you are printer wise! :D your collection (that ive seen) is awesome!! I cannot wait till i can afford my voron.. just waitin till i get enough bones, i told myself ima buy it for me when i hit one year sober and thats coming up in 2 days.. just need more money though.. when i finally get one i am gonna start making videos! :D Thank you for your videos coach!!:) i love em and really enjoy them!
Make that voron man!
@@idk_just_julius I been makin videos! Now I just need to make that voron! Thanks for the motivation!
I wonder if the TMC Auto tune has these motors in their DB? I've heard with the tuning set to auto can help with whine and general noise.
The catalyst board is pretty interesting. The concept of a board for a specific DIY machine has some merit. Much easier wiring and cable management. The A/B motors plug into the board NEAR where they're located.
That's something that printers with fully custom boards don't even do.
A lot of small but nice value adds in this kit.
They seem to have upgraded the hotend and gear thanks to you 🎉
I have this exact set (minus the printed parts). I had lots of issues with the board: it was running an old klipper version and once updating the software at the linux level it wanted to also update the MCU firmware.... And finding the docs on how to do that was a total pain. Bits and pieces of docs scattered over 2 or 3 places. In the end figured that out, only to be greeted by 178c on ALL thermistors after 2 days of otherwise OK printing. So I gave up on it and swapped it out for a Manta M5P. Some kudos to Fysetc though: they did a few checks with me and then decided to send me a new Catalyst which arrived fairly quickly. I'm just not going to use it any time soon. After swapping the board the very very short cables on the motors are actually a bit of a pain. Got it to fit, but.... could be better. Besides those niggles, I have been VERY VERY happy with this kit. And now I've got a very very good deal on a Fysetc Voron 2.4 kit 😁
Ohw... As an after thought: the Catalyst board does claim to support CANbus too, just never got around to it. And I found the startup times for the board to be frustratingly long.
i got myself a Fystec Trident rev 1.1 ( After burner, 1.2 is their SB version it seems)
i was suprised at how good the kit was, everything was included looked high quality, the wiring diagram was easy to read, all cables where precrimped ( no need for those wago shenanigans)
dragon High flow included ( original one )
Very cool b-roll, very very clean graphs as well
Try the Klipper TMC Autotune extension for the motor whine
Someone else just recommended that, excellent advice. I’ll give that a good. 👌🏻👌🏻
I bought a Fysetc 0.1 kit a while ago (without printed parts) and I've been super happy with it. My only gripe with that was that the sd card they shipped with pre configured klipper died after literally one power up and finding the recommended configs for the machine was a little dicey. Did end up finding it buried in github, but the hardware on that one was great. The extruder and the bowden tube were a little janky though like you mentioned. Plan to replace mine once it strips out eventually.
Nice 2 see a new video out thought of a voron but id probabley never use it
I REALLY want to do one of these one day!
Great video!
do you want to try Sibood voron 3d priner?
@@程娜-y3v If they made one I would look into it…
I agree with the wining motor noise.
I also have problem with the I2C connection to the display.
Whenever I try to use the encode it might hang the bus.
I recently got a USB one with which I will replace it.
I have had an extruder clog - not to say that fysetc is to blame, but I trashed my board by unplugging the head connector without powering down.
Motors and heater was turned off - guess that is because of the accelerometer.
Waiting for a new board, the MCU won’t show up on USB anymore.
Will also replace the controller on that board, but ordered a new board to be safe.
Had to order it with the CM68, which is not pin compatible with a pi computer module, so you are stuck with their board.
But I think you can remvoe the CM68 and use the MCU via USB with any other kind of board.
The preinstalled config - that annoyed me as well.
Also the gantry nut assembly.
I wasn’t aware of that printed part and had some fun time to place nuts in the gantry with tweezers.
Thank you for explaining me why I have extrusions left over.
Thought about the gantry beam, but missed the bed assembly.
That umbilical cable - I hate it.
It looks solid either way the glue, havn’t noticed any glue problem yet, but the cable is stiff, which together with he lightweight gantry…
The most annoying part however is that is doesn’t fit within the top hat.
I’m using the waiting time for my new board to increase the top hat height.
I considered reolacing it with CAN, but didn’t want to spend too much time crimping new canles for the CAN PCB I have available.
That said, the catalyst board includes a CAN connector which is really nice, but only useable if you use the CM68.
Hey the noise is probably cause of their bad stepstics - a german influencer replaced them by BTT2209.
A big warning about the soc/compute module part of the mainboard: If you corrupt the linix on the onboard emmc you will have a bad time. I highly recomme d that you make an update video where you try to reflash linux on it.
It will be a harder time since you do not habe a display output but maybe a uart header but explaining a newbee this recovery procedure will be hard.
Sidenode: The catalyst has a CAN port
In thier newest kit the 1.1 They seemed to have taken your advice and upgraded the umbilical cord as well as include heatsinks in the box. also they went to stainless rails.
Excellent. Thanks for informing me that they’ve made some improvements. 👍🏻👍🏻
I can confirm these changes. The umbelical in particular has been changed into a CAN sort of toolhead instead. It's a very soft silicone cable.
Furthermore, they have upgraded the hotend to something along the lines of Bambu hotend clone with dragon mounting points, as well as include the CNC pom gear by default.
I noticed they have seemed to address all issues you've raised in this video!
There's no way that wiring harness is going to survive long-term. Maybe if it was super high quality fine strand wire and was properly strain relieved at each end but I bet you're going to start having problems with it within a couple hundred hours.
Unless you want to feel some major frustration I don't recommend updating your Klipper version. It was a NIGHTMARE trying to update the MCU after I corrupted the Klipper install and updated everything....
I did it today. Wish I’d done it before I finished this video so I could have included it. It went really smoothly for me, but required a bit of experience to get it done.
I really really really want to build one of these more custom printers.
I have an ender 5 + so if I didn’t care about the money I’d love to copy your Mercury 1 Zero G build
I think I’ll end up doing a little Voron tho, the price is a little easier to swallow.
Honestly, getting a Voron 0 build under your belt before you tackle the Zero-G would be a good idea anyway. The Mercury One is GREAT but the instructions still aren't there. So having experience with a machine that is a bit better documented will really help you understand everything that is going on with the Mercury One.
Such a cool looking little printer though
About tge tinnitus like tone, it comes from the stepping and interpolation of the drivers. My bigtreetech drivers (2209 as well as 2226) and moons motors do the same at certain positions. For it to go away, use stealthchop (attention, speed limit) or switch the Interpolation setting
I really need to bring my 0.1 back to life and upgrade it to a 0.2
There is magnetic stainless steel it contains enough more ferrite or martensite, Maryensitic stainless steel can be hardened so better for linear rails/rods. When you see linear rods with grooves from the ball bearings those rods are probably cheaper 304 or 316 stainless steel.
Good stuff mate
Is this a kit that a beginner would be able to do? I love what you get for the price. Really love the design/look of it as well. Im just worried its begond my capabilities.
I’d love to build myself a voron to print filaments that require an enclosure… if my wife wouldn’t kill me for buying another printer, this seems the perfect unit.
Great video... whats is that blue accent color filament?
It looks like they are only charging about $45 for the printed parts, the PIF route would cost about double that. So, they must have been cutting corners there.
Looks interesting but at that price would rather build “The 100”, the project has come a long ways and came handle crazy fast speeds.
Or just get the Ldo kit. A little bit more $ but with a lot of good parts. Like the revo hot end, a real rpi, a very good heater etc. cost less then a fysec kit upgraded.
Siboor just launched a AWD voron 0 kit, take a look
Is that actually something they are selling or just a one-off they made? I retweeted it on Twitter so I saw it. It is... strange. The world's fastest V0 uses the BOM pair of just 2 Nema 14 motors. I don't really know that I understand the logic at play in the way SIBOOR has that setup. Fun? Sure. Logical & really useful? .... Yea idk.
@@MandicReally thats the voron enjoyer way, just cool nonsense and going super fast
So now time for Formbot?
may I ask where to go to find good info on building Voron?
my unfinished Hypercube is collecting dust, I'd love to make it happen
any ideas ?
ugg i wish this was in 2020. I just feel like the 1515 is not worth it. It is also not really used in alot of places
Is the Fysetc V0.2 any cheaper than Formbot's kit? From what I can tell it's either the same price or more expensive than Formbot's kit, and Formbot is considered to be slightly higher quality...
I haven’t built a Formbot kit to give input. Right now the price is more for the Fysetc but I’ve seen it on sale for less. So who knows what the months I’ll bring.
Wich One Is Better between fystec, siboor and ldo?
AMAZING
My v0.1 I put the .2 parts on does the same thing formbot kit.
What are your print start macro and end print macro ?
What hotend would you recommend?
Revo Voron will give you a ton of ability to swap around, at a premium price. Dragon HF is what I have in my 0.1. I’m limited by mechanical issues but not at all by flowrate. It can flow faster than mine can move right now.
Dragon HF: tinyurl.com/3DHubDragonHF
Revo Voron: shrsl.com/4b04j
Have you compared this and the Formbot version which is cheaper? There are 2 printers I am looking for at the moment.
I haven’t built a Formbot machine so I cannot speak to the difference. I’d watch out for sales on Fysetc. Folks have noted they got their kits cheaper than they currently are.
how would you compare this against the siboor kit?
I like the Fysetc kit better in every way, personally. I think I did say that in the video, idk it’s been a while since I’ve watched it.
Hey man....I'm currently rebuilding everything in the chamber on my v2.4,I've been recommended beefy front and z idlers.
I got about 3500 hours on this machine before I got one z idler cracking and one front idler cracking.
Should I just go cnc or is it ok to go 5 walls /50 % infill on all the chamber motion stuff?
Extra question,do you have any xp with quality ceramic bearings or are those just fugazi?
I haven't run the ceramic bearings yet. My next 2 builds (a v0 & v2.4) I'll be running them to see what I think. You can go higher wall count (Infill won't make much of a difference) to increase strength, but yes I'd recommend the beefy designs. The stock idler design is "Meh" to me. I'll be doing beefy on the next 2.4. The only problem with the CNC parts is you are stuck with the color they provide. That's the thing I dislike about them. I MAY go CNC on the next 2.4 just to test it out though.
Yeah...at least all black would be nice@@MandicReally
In time where bambulab is everywhere ( I own P1P/S) - is it good to build voron from kit? or its cheaper to pick components on my own hand?
Hard to say. I’m largely of the opinion that a lot is cheaper overall. You can find individual parts cheaper but then you often pay tax & shipping on individual transactions. That quickly defeats the savings of those individual parts. Combine that with missing small parts here or there. Despite your best planning you’ll often miss something. Or maybe the part you need is only available in multiples. Things kits take care of. I self sourced my first 2 Vorons and I won’t do it again. From here on it’s kits for me. I’ll buy the additional parts I want and maybe end up with some quality spare parts for future projects or maintenance.
@@MandicReally Thanks, i dont expect as fast answer. Maybe one more question - formbot now have very cheap kit in my region (Europe - 429$ with dragon high flow, no parts - i can print it better), so, better formbot kit or siboor/fysetc?
@@zbigniewwielgus1249 I haven't used a Formbot kit to say. I have just not had good luck with the Siboor kits so I cannot recommend them. The Fysetc kit I was largely happy with but the electronics weren't my favorite. For the price and with a good hotend (I like the Dragon HF), that sounds like a good price to me and I'd give it a go.
@@zbigniewwielgus1249 I haven't used a Formbot kit to say. I have just not had good luck with the Siboor kits so I cannot recommend them. The Fysetc kit I was largely happy with but the electronics weren't my favorite. For the price and with a good hotend (I like the Dragon HF), that sounds like a good price to me and I'd give it a go.
I was looking at the siboor 0.2 kit with the cnc parts and the dragon hd hotend. Should I just let this fysetc kit?
i can recommend the siboor kit with cnc parts running it 2month so far and no issues
I recommend the fysetc kit, my printed part work well , haven't this question
lol i was watching this and thought you just had nasty tier dirty hands until i realized it was a tattoo. cool video
YAYAYAYYA
But for the price you have so many other robust and less fiddly systems. Why would anyone need a voron?
No one “needs” a Voron. I did an entire video about why folks may WANT a Voron 0: ua-cam.com/video/k08EfV4u4dk/v-deo.htmlsi=hRP5xwTROuwyArtQ
@@MandicReally yeah I watched that and it was before the a1 mini came out, so A1 mini with AMS or Budget Voron 0.2 kit you build? Yes I know material choices are much more with the Voron however AMS. Yes I know a kit is a learning experience, but out of the box setup time to print is long and could end in suffering vs the A1. Do you really gain that much with the Voron over the competition? 3D printing is getting mainstream and as it does the Vorons of the world will be more niche.
@@mobilechaosyt materials is the key. The A1 bed is limited to 80C. Not nearly enough for ABS, ASA, Nylon, etc. No enclosed chamber is another mark against it for prototyping type work.
The A1 mini makes WAY more sense for the majority of users, but folks like me who work with materials other than PLA, it’s a non-starter.
lol I literally bought thia kit yesterday
A couple questions:
What do you think of that bed frame vs the Kirigami?
And do you think it's worth upgrading a Voron 0.1 to 0.2? Or are there any parts in particular that you'd upgrade?
I’ve held off updating my 0.1 until now. Even then I’m only doing it because it needs some disassembly for maintenance.
The number 1 upgrade of the 0.2 over the 0.1 to me is the Mini-StealthBurner. It has a superior Extruder design, and well all around better design. In my opinion. If I had a 0.1 I was considering upgrading, I’d just do the Toolhead and associated pieces and leave the rest. Almost every part is changed but not in drastic ways. The skirts of the 0.2 look a lot nicer too. That’s an easy cosmetic change though. I did that on my 0.1 months ago.
I’m not a big fan of the extrusion top hat. Yes it’s superior to the fixed 0.1 too hat, but I have a hinged 0.1 top hat I’m happy with. The latching mechanism on the 0.2 top hat is still questionable to me sadly.
@@MandicReally Ah, thanks! I already went with a mini-after-sherpa and a sailfin extruder, so I don't feel the need to upgrade there. And did the top hat. Seems like I can just stop wondering about the rest. :)
Yea I have a LGX lite on my 0.1, which is why I didn’t bother updating. Even now, I’ve design a Mini-SB LGX Lite version for the upgrade.
Oh and on the bed frame. Purely from a feel standpoint, the CNC bed frame feels more solid. However not so much that I care to change the bed on my 0.1 when I do the update. The Kirigami is plenty fine.
Thanks! It certainly looks more solid, which is why I wondered. I can't really complain about my kirigami at the moment, but it just looked like a solid bit of kit, so I couldn't help but be tempted.
botched cfg? looks like they want you to bend that new x rail and buy a new one, right out of the box. nice kit, but with some caveats.
Eh it homes X first and since that fails it doesn’t try homing Y. I doubt it would cause that kind of damage.
No disrespect to companies selling kits......but for 400+ seems like they are for the sake of building a printer and not for a practical need. Especially if the extruder is not top quality.
Fysetc 2.4
A random Chinese AliExpress store not supplying appropriate printed parts?! Say it ain't so.
I wish i was allowed to get a 0.2 but my parents wont let me
print new parents
@@kiwikemist Dang i should
based@@kiwikemist
so a half assed kit with a few nice parts but overall sounds pretty bad
100% infill or go home. lol
I will rather buy a Bambulab than this pain in a butt. 🤷♂️
I bought an X1C from Bambu. It lasted 513 hours before the bed warped so bad it now refuses to print. It's now a $1600 doorstop waiting for Bambu to process a support ticket.
$500 WTF that gantry looks weak no solid parts ,Structural should be as thick as you can make it ,Caps, fearings an what not do 5-7% infill ....Man im glad i bought a Neptune Just works ,Some of these garage days printers are going to die out soon .. like none really wants to put build there own Xbox .just turn it on an go with some setup of course ...these Vorons an Sovols are like Mad max Printers built from scrape , if the Parts are Printed they should be at least strong and work without falling apart ...$500 for something that tried to self suicide ...Naaahhhh
I love your videos and respect you highly as a creator! Do you have a Discord??
Thank you very much. No I do not have a Discord. I'm too easily distractable and work... a lot, so I cannot justify yet another place where my time & energy would have to go. Maybe if I can get to a point where I can have an assistant to help out / manage things a little more. Thanks
@@MandicReally That's what I was curious about, as a UA-cam creator I love talking to other creators about their process. You're so polished, not sure if you'd want to chat at some point. I'm also doing some unique stuff with transparent filaments if you're interested in something different!