Thanks for your time and advice. I removed the cupping from 4 each 1x12 pine boards. I was making shelfing and realized my wood was badly cupped. I heated them with a grass burning torch (to speed up the process) on the crown side. Holy crap it worked. I was able to salvage my wood and money by watching your video. Good job!
Same for me. Trying to be a luthier. Have 1/4” guitar topper wood that warped and I need to flatten it without shaving any material off so I can glue it up. Tried the steam iron last week. Took just a bit of twist out and now is cupped down the length. I’m trying this heat gun trick. I hope it works.
This really WORKED for me. Had a 24" wide by 48" long by 3/4" glued-up panel that cupped badly (about 1/2" cup from side to side). Brought a heat gun and tried the method described in the video. Applied heat for 15 minutes and let sit for one hour. Had to do this twice, but the panel is now perfectly flat. WOW!! Thanks so much for explaining this simple procedures to a woodworker newcomer.
I cannot thank you enough for the tip. I use a laser engraver and cutter. Working with wood 1/8 to1/4" thick. When wood is cupped it needed to be pinned down to the honeycomb bed. That works with soft woods however 1/4 maple it is impossible. Heating the crown is FABULOUS!
Hi Buddy, Frank from England here, tryed your trick on oak cabinet doors that had cupped , well it worked a treat ! Thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍😁regards Frank
Hi Andy, I just tried a wet cloth on the cupped side then ironed it, which didn't make sense because if you leave a board in the sun the ends cup upwards. So, now I'm going to try your method and heat the convex side of the board seeing my first misadvised attempt probably made it worse. Regards One Handed Maker - Australia
It has been about a week now, and we have had a few humid days too... The wood panel has remained flat "as a board", lol, with no finish applied. Thank you so much again for this brilliant fix!
Very good tip especially for wood used on table top. It works and I have used this method on various pieces of furniture. I have not used this on floor boards but it has worked for me on furniture and separate boards. Thank you.
Glad to see this. I have never seen anyone flatten wood with heat. I have 2 mahogany table tops that are warped about 1/2 inch. Before I try other more destructive methods I will try this. Thanks for the video and I will report back on progress.
Wanted to thank you for the video. I have a pine board I finished using the shou sugi ban method which warped the 1x6 severely. This method really did a nice job flattening the board. Very helpful (even 9 years later).
I've done this on a hot sunny day. Just lay the board, crown side up, in the sun for a couple hours. Also you can apply moisture to the cupped side to help it along if its badly warped.
Adding moisture to one side will make the fibers swell on that side. The sun drying out the other will make those fibers shrink. But given some time the moisture will equalize again. So if the board isn’t supported by something that can resist the warping force, it will warp again. Have you had any issues with re-warping ?
@@Bryan-fn6lp I haven't tried repairing yet. I was thinking I will get 1 meter strip of sandpaper attach to 1 meter 4x2 piece of pine. And just do a level sanding across the top.
phenomenal help, I am making a large plaque where i am tiling to 22.5"x32" ~.5"T boards and one was cupping. This helped out and the boards are flat!! Thank you!!!!
I have to tell you how well this worked for me. I used this on a table top which had 11 pieces of oak at various widths, making it symmetrical, but very uneven in warping/cupping. Due to irrelevant circumstances, I unfortunately glued & sanded the table top, ready for oil/poly, but had to leave it for 2 months. Exactly what you shouldn't do, and naturally the wood took in / lost some moisture, and it cupped. Really badly, it was like a Mexican wave. I was planning on cutting out the cups, or just starting with new wood. But I found this video and gave the heat gun + water spray + resting method a try. What I can recommend is, if your wood is already jointed, or is a complex cup/warp like mine (multiple areas), is to just be very methodical about it. I drew marks on the table for each area I was doing, to be as methodical as possible, an only focused on one cupped area at a time. Slowly, it moved back, it was quite amazing. I just wish I'd photographed a before/after, because I honestly didn't think it would work. But there was quite an extreme cupping to it before I began Afterwards, the table top was flat in all dimensions. I put on the oil/poly, and some cleats, and it's been fine ever since. Thank you for sharing this video, so helpful!
Richard Harris helpful tips, but how do I fix a table that I bought? It's done but is warped to the left side.its already sprayed and everything. Wish there were something I could do to fix it.
Thank you Andy , that was an invaluable tip . I watched another video for straightening warped wood that involved making relief cuts but I would chuck the board before taking too much time and labor to salvage it .
I have a very expensive curly maple angel shaped book matched guitar top for a Telecaster I'm building. One half perfect, the other half cupped full length about 1/4"....never seen anything like it. I ironed it like you said...first try, it is now flat as a pancake and it stayed like that. I couldn't believe it. Thank you so much. Nyms.
This is a great technique. I am a chef and when rinsing my wooden cutting boards with hot water they will instantly cup upwards. It happens in seconds. I have to rinse the other side of the board with hot water to warp it the other way until its even. Its cool to see happen
Good Intro..loved it..great tip..working on a warped rocking chair at the moment. Tell us the next time about your shop pets on the ceiling and in the corners cause i saw you looking at them.
Wow I kept saying I want the 3 minute video fix and this did it. I use a lot of pallet wood and it’s almost always cupped. I used your technique and Bam!!!! I’m a new fan so let’s see what all you can teach me.
Thanks for doing this presentation. I had a door panel that was cupped and I couldn't remove it. I tried the heat trick and was able to put it back in place with a little epoxy. It looks almost as good as new. I'm thrilled it worked. Keep on doing what you do!
Very nice! I had piece of white pine, about 9 inches by 9 inches, and 3/4 inch thick, which was cupped about an eighth of an inch. I tried this method and it removed almost all of the cupping. Thanks!
Thank you I liked your video. I was looking for a fast approach since I was given limited time for a small project (12 hrs lol) . I wanted to continue but knew I wouldn't ever be satisfied and shouldn't have been .The project is an inside set of sliding barn doors . Each door 3'x7 ' the door itself is constructed using 1x8 pine and 1x4's on sides . The 1x8's were cupped enough that gaps were still apparent when screwed together. So I used a clothes steamer ( a hose that puts out steam basically ). And am now going to go try the heat method. The steam worked good but I like the way you talked about letting the wood go back itself . Very well said , thanks again . Erock , Oklahoma
This clip has some age so you might not get it but here goes . . . I have a dresser and chest of drawers made of hard maple - it is all solid wood. The drawer sides and end slabs are cupped in the wrong way and cause the drawers to be perpetually sticking. Been going on since 1960 from my memory. Now, being old I would desire a more elegant way of correction than sanding it down. I can use the heating to remove moisture from the crowned sides but can they be treated with oil, shellac or paint to prevent recurrence? Super good video and a truly elegant tip for the ages.
No videos from this channel for about 9 years, too bad. This was a great tip. I think this could work on thicker stock if you insulated the last 1/3 on each side and just spent a good amount of time heating it and waiting.
Great idea. I'm a furniture restorer with 28 yrs. experience and still learning new stuff. I'm going to try this right now on a flood damaged [cupped] drawer back. I'll let you know how it came out. Thanks
Thank you, thank you. I had this very problem and was confused on how to fix it, then thought check UA-cam and hey presto my problem fixed. Within 20 minutes my problem fixed. Once again thank you.
Thank you so much for sharing your expertise!!!! I nearly gave up on a museum replica project because of cupping in oak panels on the lid a wood box I built. Since the panels are only 6mm, a hairdryer worked on the lacquered wood without damage and the cupping disappeared!
I am glad you showed the grain of your demo board. Looking at your demonstration wood, I realize I need to put down my deck boards with the Bark side down. It would seem that wood cups, concave on the bark side and convex on the side with the grains going up. So if a deck board does cup the Convex side will be up and the Concave (cup) will be down. Wood seems to defy logic, because in my head, I would think the bark side would be the convex side but it isn't.
@fromthewoodshop I’m excited to see by everyone’s comments that this works! Could use some advice here. I have a Mel Smilow slat bench that’s slightly cupped. The legs in the center are 1/4” off the ground due to the bowing of the slats. The wood is already stained & sealed, so not sure if this method would work or if you recommend a different approach. Thank you!!
Used this technique with a 2KW heat gun on a cupped 10mm thick red pine plank - it really did help! It's very tempting to try a second run to see if I can get it absolutely perfect (one end of the plank has been left better than the other- uneven heating, I guess) - but the plank is now near enough to true for my purposes that I'll probably leave well alone.
Follow-Up: This worked like a dream! This even works to tweak spot areas in my edge glued up piece made from poplar. I am hoping after a finih is applied it will remain stable (flat) Question: Do you think the wood will return to it's previously cupped state?
I knew it! I knew this could be done, but I thought maybe some moisture would be necessary. Thanks for posting this, I have a piece of 1/4" oak that has a significant bow in it. Gonna give it a try.
I haven't tried the heat method but I did have some success with just wetting down the wood and applying weights. After a couple days all looks good. If it warps back I will try this method. One tip. Once you have it straightened out and the wood is dry, seal, paint or whatever. This will slow down or almost stop the warping process. I cut some doors and let then set for about 2 months. This was when I saw the warpage.
Thanks! I'm trying to repair a wooden chest of drawers that stood by the seaside for many years (indoors). The like braces between the drawers (on the face) have bent up. Its not the end of the world but if I could get them to straighten a bit it would be super. The wood is more than an inch thick though so I'm not getting my hopes too high
after a year after installation, im noticing slight cupping of nearly all floor boards. wood is ash, 1 inch think. i milled it and kiln dried it myself. it sat in the space for many months before final finish work and installation. on the boards that are 8 inches and winder, i made relief kerf cuts on the underside. all the planks are face fastened/countersunks with proper wood screws to a 3/4 inch plywood subfloor. a foundation membrane is labor sealed from under the subfloor. Currently the wood is still raw as i wanted to sand it first before coating it. another major detail to the environment is that the space is wood stove heated. the building is extremely tight. poly-iso walls. my thoughts are that the wood stove is creating way to dry of an environment in a space that is all closed-cell insulated. also because the wood is still raw, its being even more affected by the wood stove heat. i don't wanna sand out the cupping yet though if its gonna lay back flat in the moist summer months. thoughts? i live in northern michigan.
Hi Andy! Thank you for posting this video, this does work! I watched your vid yesterday, and tried it on a glue up panel that got a slight (3/8") cup in it after it had set up..I am on my second re-heat now..hoping it sticks this time! If not, I will rty the "dampening the concave side & clamping" for a few days next...
Great job. Where would you start with a longer piece - assuming the whole board is cupped? In the center or at one end? All I have is a heat gun and I don't really want to chuck the board away.
I have a 3×3×135cm teak stick, but it's slightly curved. Does this method help straighten the wood stick I have? Also, how would you prevent these from getting wrapped or bent again in the future. Thank you very much.
I have recently acquired a dresser that has two drawers (Eastlake 1870s chest dresser) that has warped/cupped. Going to pull the drawer completely apart (I have to refinish it anyway). Hope this works. It looks like a 1/4" piece of cut cherry (solid wood, not ply).
Andy, Thank you for sharing your process. Heating one side does seem to make sense but in my specific application (outdoor decking) this process doesn't correct my problem. So I hoping you might have a suggestion. My deck is elevated (10 ft) and completely open for venting. The wood is 5/8" x 5" Massaranduba / Brazilian redwood . Delivered with a generous wax type sealer and installed with the Kreg deck mate and spaced according to the jig (approx 1/4"). Within 6 months from installation, the cupping started. I'm located in central mid west climate. My supplier instructed to clean the wax (on the top surface) with mineral spirits then apply Rosewood oil. Lightly sand and reapply within 6 months and continue this routine for 2 years. Now four years latter, the cupping continues and now requires heavy belt sanding and re-oiling... 30' x 15'... is no fun. I've now sanded within an 1/8" of the screw heads. So in my installation, the method of heating is a natural and daily occurrence. Without any means of comparison, I don't think it could cup much worse. For anyone considering using the deck mate, I will not be use it again on whatever material I use next time. The screw heads are not wide enough to prevent pull through. I've considered pulling up the boards and cutting a kerf (relief cut) but would like some opinions before starting this process. Thank you in advance for any suggestions you might have.
I had a custom cutting board made for me a year or so ago, and although I do clean it really thoroughly and oil it often, it's been so cold here the past few weeks, cold and super dry, and the little bit of cupping I was dealing with has become a major problem. I'm going to attempt this technique with my board and see what happens. Thanks for this!
thank you soooo much for this video!!!! i recently bought some wood for a project from one of your big box hardware stores. unforfunately bc of when it is & the size i wanted they only had a Very limited amount and ALL of the 5 boards they had were very warped and cupped. i was goig to cut 2-8' boards down into the sizes i needed but that wasn't going to happen with wht they had. i was going to be lucky to get on out of each board. But thats they did cut one board from 4 different ones and charged me for less than 1. unfortunately or fortunately depending on how you look at it they also gave me the rest of the twisted and cupped wood as well. i've been watching video after video on how to flatten these boards into something useable and everyone uses a joiner or a planer of which i have neither. i'm a simple diyer who repurposes things as a hobby. if this works and makes them even slightly useable to the point that i can make a few wren's houses and maybe a few birdfeeders i'll be a happy camper.
Ill give this a try on a table top ..one corner seems to be warping upwards . I have tried sanding the underside frame supports to allow the screws to pull the top down more. How ever the over hang doesnt want to budge,will see
Just found you - will look for more. Your vid came as a question on Woodtalkonline I posted. I resawed some spalted sycamore to make a 1/4" panel. After glue up, the whole thing cupped. I tried dampening the inside, but it came back. Maybe I didn't clamp it long enough? Don't recall how long I did, but I doubt it was a few days. I do have a steam kit - not used yet - and thought about that. Will try this. Thanks for posting!!
I don't have a heat gun. Have you ever tried using the stove top burner, turning the the crown side down (towards the burner), so the same side gets the heat; holding the board up off the burner with a cooling rack; or using the broiler in the oven (top element) and placing the board crown side up in the oven?
Hello, Andy! Very helpful! Any tricks for a 2"× 9" × 10'? Its all jacked up! I've layed it down and put weights on it. Thinking I might add heat and water.
Hi Thank you for posting this video. One question I have is that does the wood remains flat or does cupping comes back and if so how long. Look forward to hearing from you as cupping is a big problem in my shop when using hardwood to build face frames.
You just saved my butt. Thanks Brother. As experiment, I had a piece of koa that was wet at some point so I tried to freeze it...which did get rid of the smell but put a small cup in the wood. I subbed.
Clearly this dries out the "long" side more than the short side, making it shrink. I'd love to know whether it returns to its original, cupped shape once the moisture levels on each side return to parity.
But the cupped shape of the wood isn't the "original". This board was cut flat and warped because one side dried out more already. Heating it like this is returning it to (nearly) the original, uncupped shape.
@@robfrost1 Actually yeah, good point. If it had an uneven distribution of moisture when it was sawn flat it could naturally settle into a cupped shape. Now I'm also curious if it would just return to the cupped shape. If it does I imagine it won't be as extreme, seeing as naturally flat which cup don't really return to their original shape.
I don't have a heat gun, but I do have those gigantic heating radiators in my house. I am trying wetting the concave side in the center of the cup to add mositure, then put the planks convex (crown) side down to heat that side and encourage it to tighten. I'm hoping that does the job.
i will have to give this a try. im currently installing oak pie shaped treads and the large one cupped on me. im not sure if it was because i only stained the top. im going to have to give this a try.
Looking at your panel I really think this will work :-) I've had quite a few pieces that look just like yours that turned out beautiful (especially since it's fairly thin!!) The thinner the piece the better it works. BUT, I can't stress enough that you need to be very careful on cutting the heat AS SOON AS you see the slightest movement!!! (It will move the panel in the other direction :-O) Set a reference point on the cut to help.. Let me know how it works!! Thanks for the comment!
Good video. I have a question, my furniture for the TV is bowed or sagging. I'm starting to believe that it wasn't the weight of the 60 inch TV that I had two years ago or the 49 inch that I have now. Since that's a whole piece of furniture, what would you recommend? To put it upside down on a sunny day and aid it with a heat gun or what else can I do? I am not a wood savvy. Thanks.
Hi Andy! My name is Cristina. I got my hands into a really beautiful 80 year old cedar slab. On one side is pretty cupped. I don't have tools. Would a hair drier work? I have placed it upside down. I got it from the big snowfall in January 2021 in Madrid, Spain. Thanks
Hey Adrian, it may but if you're working a number of pieces it could take a while. I've also used this method with a small Lp torch. It goes much faster **BUT MAKE SURE TO TRY THIS OUTSIDE IN CASE THE WOOD CATCHES FIRE!! Another thing to try would be to dampen the inside face of the cup with some water. Depending on the severity of the cup, this may swell the grains enough to push the planks flat, then clamp flat to dry for a few days. It's worth a try :-) Good luck!
Hi Andy. I have a 5 drawer teak dresser that bowed/cupped on one side after being stained with oil. The slide rails will no longer hold the drawers. I need to fix. Will this help?
No. Way.
This is gold, thank you so much! Definitely helps us poor/badly located wood workers who end up with cheap wood from a big hardware store.
Thanks for your time and advice. I removed the cupping from 4 each 1x12 pine boards. I was making shelfing and realized my wood was badly cupped. I heated them with a grass burning torch (to speed up the process) on the crown side. Holy crap it worked. I was able to salvage my wood and money by watching your video. Good job!
I’m new to woodworking and I ran into this issue a lot. This video is a huge help! Thank you and I look forward to seeing more of your videos!
Same for me. Trying to be a luthier. Have 1/4” guitar topper wood that warped and I need to flatten it without shaving any material off so I can glue it up. Tried the steam iron last week. Took just a bit of twist out and now is cupped down the length. I’m trying this heat gun trick. I hope it works.
This really WORKED for me. Had a 24" wide by 48" long by 3/4" glued-up panel that cupped badly (about 1/2" cup from side to side). Brought a heat gun and tried the method described in the video. Applied heat for 15 minutes and let sit for one hour. Had to do this twice, but the panel is now perfectly flat. WOW!! Thanks so much for explaining this simple procedures to a woodworker newcomer.
I cannot thank you enough for the tip. I use a laser engraver and cutter. Working with wood 1/8 to1/4" thick. When wood is cupped it needed to be pinned down to the honeycomb bed. That works with soft woods however 1/4 maple it is impossible. Heating the crown is FABULOUS!
Hi Buddy, Frank from England here, tryed your trick on oak cabinet doors that had cupped , well it worked a treat ! Thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍😁regards Frank
Hi Andy, I just tried a wet cloth on the cupped side then ironed it, which didn't make sense because if you leave a board in the sun the ends cup upwards. So, now I'm going to try your method and heat the convex side of the board seeing my first misadvised attempt probably made it worse.
Regards
One Handed Maker - Australia
It has been about a week now, and we have had a few humid days too... The wood panel has remained flat "as a board", lol, with no finish applied. Thank you so much again for this brilliant fix!
I used your method on a warped drawer bottom with a very hot iron. It worked, thanks so much for sharing your expertise.
Very good tip especially for wood used on table top. It works and I have used this method on various pieces of furniture. I have not used this on floor boards but it has worked for me on furniture and separate boards. Thank you.
Glad to see this. I have never seen anyone flatten wood with heat. I have 2 mahogany table tops that are warped about 1/2 inch. Before I try other more destructive methods I will try this. Thanks for the video and I will report back on progress.
@Ticky Tocky Sorry the heat didn't work.
Wanted to thank you for the video. I have a pine board I finished using the shou sugi ban method which warped the 1x6 severely. This method really did a nice job flattening the board. Very helpful (even 9 years later).
WOW,I m making a wooden box and the top had a slight crown in it...I tried your technique just a few minutes ago and IT WORKED AWESOME....Thanks...
I've done this on a hot sunny day. Just lay the board, crown side up, in the sun for a couple hours. Also you can apply moisture to the cupped side to help it along if its badly warped.
So in his example you wet the underside? If you don't have a heat gun could you replace it with an Iron and a old rag on the high side?
Adding moisture to one side will make the fibers swell on that side. The sun drying out the other will make those fibers shrink. But given some time the moisture will equalize again. So if the board isn’t supported by something that can resist the warping force, it will warp again. Have you had any issues with re-warping ?
@@Bryan-fn6lp I haven't tried repairing yet. I was thinking I will get 1 meter strip of sandpaper attach to 1 meter 4x2 piece of pine. And just do a level sanding across the top.
phenomenal help, I am making a large plaque where i am tiling to 22.5"x32" ~.5"T boards and one was cupping. This helped out and the boards are flat!! Thank you!!!!
Thanks great explanation and demonstration Andy. Best no BS video!
I left a wooden board in the car for a day and it warped on the sun. I used your method and now it's straight again. Thank you!
Thank you Andy your instructions are easy direct and it worked! Love your style !
This was freaken awesome it saved my project… I was absolutely amazed thanks mate
I have to tell you how well this worked for me.
I used this on a table top which had 11 pieces of oak at various widths, making it symmetrical, but very uneven in warping/cupping. Due to irrelevant circumstances, I unfortunately glued & sanded the table top, ready for oil/poly, but had to leave it for 2 months. Exactly what you shouldn't do, and naturally the wood took in / lost some moisture, and it cupped. Really badly, it was like a Mexican wave.
I was planning on cutting out the cups, or just starting with new wood. But I found this video and gave the heat gun + water spray + resting method a try.
What I can recommend is, if your wood is already jointed, or is a complex cup/warp like mine (multiple areas), is to just be very methodical about it. I drew marks on the table for each area I was doing, to be as methodical as possible, an only focused on one cupped area at a time. Slowly, it moved back, it was quite amazing. I just wish I'd photographed a before/after, because I honestly didn't think it would work. But there was quite an extreme cupping to it before I began
Afterwards, the table top was flat in all dimensions. I put on the oil/poly, and some cleats, and it's been fine ever since.
Thank you for sharing this video, so helpful!
Richard Harris helpful tips, but how do I fix a table that I bought? It's done but is warped to the left side.its already sprayed and everything. Wish there were something I could do to fix it.
Thank you Andy , that was an invaluable tip . I watched another video for straightening warped wood that involved making relief cuts but I would chuck the board before taking too much time and labor to salvage it .
I have a very expensive curly maple angel shaped book matched guitar top for a Telecaster I'm building. One half perfect, the other half cupped full length about 1/4"....never seen anything like it. I ironed it like you said...first try, it is now flat as a pancake and it stayed like that. I couldn't believe it. Thank you so much. Nyms.
best outtakes ever 🤣 and thx for the tipp with bent wood! 👍
Impressive. I’m do scroll saw work and this technique worked like a charm on a 3/8” piece of ash I needed. Thanks.
This was insane! Insanely cool 8)
This is a great technique. I am a chef and when rinsing my wooden cutting boards with hot water they will instantly cup upwards. It happens in seconds. I have to rinse the other side of the board with hot water to warp it the other way until its even. Its cool to see happen
Good Intro..loved it..great tip..working on a warped rocking chair at the moment. Tell us the next time about your shop pets on the ceiling and in the corners cause i saw you looking at them.
Thank you very much for this tip, has helped immensely! Enjoyed your presentation skills as well, I have liked and subscribed!
Wow I kept saying I want the 3 minute video fix and this did it. I use a lot of pallet wood and it’s almost always cupped. I used your technique and Bam!!!! I’m a new fan so let’s see what all you can teach me.
💪 Love it! Outtakes! Were great. It worked!
Thanks for doing this presentation. I had a door panel that was cupped and I couldn't remove it. I tried the heat trick and was able to put it back in place with a little epoxy. It looks almost as good as new. I'm thrilled it worked. Keep on doing what you do!
Very nice! I had piece of white pine, about 9 inches by 9 inches, and 3/4 inch thick, which was cupped about an eighth of an inch. I tried this method and it removed almost all of the cupping. Thanks!
Thank you I liked your video. I was looking for a fast approach since I was given limited time for a small project (12 hrs lol) . I wanted to continue but knew I wouldn't ever be satisfied and shouldn't have been .The project is an inside set of sliding barn doors . Each door 3'x7 ' the door itself is constructed using 1x8 pine and 1x4's on sides . The 1x8's were cupped enough that gaps were still apparent when screwed together. So I used a clothes steamer ( a hose that puts out steam basically ). And am now going to go try the heat method. The steam worked good but I like the way you talked about letting the wood go back itself . Very well said , thanks again . Erock , Oklahoma
that was great and fun to watch the wood straighten itself out. I have to try that!
This clip has some age so you might not get it but here goes . . . I have a dresser and chest of drawers made of hard maple - it is all solid wood. The drawer sides and end slabs are cupped in the wrong way and cause the drawers to be perpetually sticking. Been going on since 1960 from my memory. Now, being old I would desire a more elegant way of correction than sanding it down. I can use the heating to remove moisture from the crowned sides but can they be treated with oil, shellac or paint to prevent recurrence? Super good video and a truly elegant tip for the ages.
No videos from this channel for about 9 years, too bad. This was a great tip. I think this could work on thicker stock if you insulated the last 1/3 on each side and just spent a good amount of time heating it and waiting.
Great idea. I'm a furniture restorer with 28 yrs. experience and still learning new stuff. I'm going to try this right now on a flood damaged [cupped] drawer back. I'll let you know how it came out. Thanks
Come on Flint, the suspense is killing me. It's been nine years now...
Thank you, thank you.
I had this very problem and was confused on how to fix it, then thought check UA-cam and hey presto my problem fixed.
Within 20 minutes my problem fixed.
Once again thank you.
Thank you so much for sharing your expertise!!!! I nearly gave up on a museum replica project because of cupping in oak panels on the lid a wood box I built. Since the panels are only 6mm, a hairdryer worked on the lacquered wood without damage and the cupping disappeared!
I am glad you showed the grain of your demo board. Looking at your demonstration wood, I realize I need to put down my deck boards with the Bark side down. It would seem that wood cups, concave on the bark side and convex on the side with the grains going up. So if a deck board does cup the Convex side will be up and the Concave (cup) will be down. Wood seems to defy logic, because in my head, I would think the bark side would be the convex side but it isn't.
@fromthewoodshop I’m excited to see by everyone’s comments that this works! Could use some advice here. I have a Mel Smilow slat bench that’s slightly cupped. The legs in the center are 1/4” off the ground due to the bowing of the slats. The wood is already stained & sealed, so not sure if this method would work or if you recommend a different approach. Thank you!!
I will be trying this on an old circular two level end table. Oh yah, love the bloopers. Thanks for the tips.
A very good video that actually make sense and work.
Hi Andy, great idea on cup removal, never heard of it before. Looking forward to more this fall/winter. cheers.
Used this technique with a 2KW heat gun on a cupped 10mm thick red pine plank - it really did help!
It's very tempting to try a second run to see if I can get it absolutely perfect (one end of the plank has been left better than the other- uneven heating, I guess) - but the plank is now near enough to true for my purposes that I'll probably leave well alone.
Follow-Up: This worked like a dream! This even works to tweak spot areas in my edge glued up piece made from poplar. I am hoping after a finih is applied it will remain stable (flat)
Question: Do you think the wood will return to it's previously cupped state?
Good question.
Very clever Sir. Good advice. Just subscribed.
I knew it! I knew this could be done, but I thought maybe some moisture would be necessary. Thanks for posting this, I have a piece of 1/4" oak that has a significant bow in it. Gonna give it a try.
I haven't tried the heat method but I did have some success with just wetting down the wood and applying weights. After a couple days all looks good. If it warps back I will try this method. One tip. Once you have it straightened out and the wood is dry, seal, paint or whatever. This will slow down or almost stop the warping process. I cut some doors and let then set for about 2 months. This was when I saw the warpage.
hi Andy, if this was your pilot video you’re going to have a great channel, bloopers were an unexpected surprise but funny, keep up the good work! 👍
Love the outtakes! The lightbulb . . . .
Awesome video, just what I needed. Thanks
Thank you so so much!!! It really helped getting my board back to normal.
Thanks! I'm trying to repair a wooden chest of drawers that stood by the seaside for many years (indoors). The like braces between the drawers (on the face) have bent up. Its not the end of the world but if I could get them to straighten a bit it would be super. The wood is more than an inch thick though so I'm not getting my hopes too high
after a year after installation, im noticing slight cupping of nearly all floor boards. wood is ash, 1 inch think. i milled it and kiln dried it myself. it sat in the space for many months before final finish work and installation. on the boards that are 8 inches and winder, i made relief kerf cuts on the underside. all the planks are face fastened/countersunks with proper wood screws to a 3/4 inch plywood subfloor. a foundation membrane is labor sealed from under the subfloor. Currently the wood is still raw as i wanted to sand it first before coating it. another major detail to the environment is that the space is wood stove heated. the building is extremely tight. poly-iso walls. my thoughts are that the wood stove is creating way to dry of an environment in a space that is all closed-cell insulated. also because the wood is still raw, its being even more affected by the wood stove heat. i don't wanna sand out the cupping yet though if its gonna lay back flat in the moist summer months. thoughts? i live in northern michigan.
Hi Andy! Thank you for posting this video, this does work! I watched your vid yesterday, and tried it on a glue up panel that got a slight (3/8") cup in it after it had set up..I am on my second re-heat now..hoping it sticks this time! If not, I will rty the "dampening the concave side & clamping" for a few days next...
Great job.
Where would you start with a longer piece - assuming the whole board is cupped?
In the center or at one end?
All I have is a heat gun and I don't really want to chuck the board away.
Thank you, you just saved a very expensive project I was working on. Keep up the good work
Thanks for the tip! And I love that you included the bloopers!
I have a 3×3×135cm teak stick, but it's slightly curved.
Does this method help straighten the wood stick I have?
Also, how would you prevent these from getting wrapped or bent again in the future.
Thank you very much.
Excellent. Cant wait to try this on a couple cupped kitchen cabinet doors. Thanks
Wow a pro tip shared for free. Thanks Andy!
Excellent! Just what I needed. Thanks!
This tip saved my coffee table. Thanks so much for sharing this technique.
I have recently acquired a dresser that has two drawers (Eastlake 1870s chest dresser) that has warped/cupped. Going to pull the drawer completely apart (I have to refinish it anyway). Hope this works. It looks like a 1/4" piece of cut cherry (solid wood, not ply).
Fantastic advice - I can't wait to give it a try - thank you!
I am glad I watched this segment on warped boards. It was exactly the problem I am having. Now, to go out to the shop and try it!
Nice video - informative, clear, and to the point. Can't wait to try your technique. Hope you make some more videos.
Andy,
Thank you for sharing your process. Heating one side does seem to make sense but in my specific application (outdoor decking) this process doesn't correct my problem. So I hoping you might have a suggestion.
My deck is elevated (10 ft) and completely open for venting. The wood is 5/8" x 5" Massaranduba / Brazilian redwood . Delivered with a generous wax type sealer and installed with the Kreg deck mate and spaced according to the jig (approx 1/4").
Within 6 months from installation, the cupping started. I'm located in central mid west climate. My supplier instructed to clean the wax (on the top surface) with mineral spirits then apply Rosewood oil. Lightly sand and reapply within 6 months and continue this routine for 2 years. Now four years latter, the cupping continues and now requires heavy belt sanding and re-oiling... 30' x 15'... is no fun. I've now sanded within an 1/8" of the screw heads.
So in my installation, the method of heating is a natural and daily occurrence. Without any means of comparison, I don't think it could cup much worse.
For anyone considering using the deck mate, I will not be use it again on whatever material I use next time. The screw heads are not wide enough to prevent pull through.
I've considered pulling up the boards and cutting a kerf (relief cut) but would like some opinions before starting this process.
Thank you in advance for any suggestions you might have.
I had a custom cutting board made for me a year or so ago, and although I do clean it really thoroughly and oil it often, it's been so cold here the past few weeks, cold and super dry, and the little bit of cupping I was dealing with has become a major problem. I'm going to attempt this technique with my board and see what happens. Thanks for this!
Life saver! Worked great on an epoxy board I need to save.
Great advice. Worked a treat first time!
Nice technique. I've un-warped wood with water and with weights--or a combination of the two. Weights work especially well on plywood.
thank you soooo much for this video!!!! i recently bought some wood for a project from one of your big box hardware stores. unforfunately bc of when it is & the size i wanted they only had a Very limited amount and ALL of the 5 boards they had were very warped and cupped. i was goig to cut 2-8' boards down into the sizes i needed but that wasn't going to happen with wht they had. i was going to be lucky to get on out of each board. But thats they did cut one board from 4 different ones and charged me for less than 1. unfortunately or fortunately depending on how you look at it they also gave me the rest of the twisted and cupped wood as well. i've been watching video after video on how to flatten these boards into something useable and everyone uses a joiner or a planer of which i have neither. i'm a simple diyer who repurposes things as a hobby. if this works and makes them even slightly useable to the point that i can make a few wren's houses and maybe a few birdfeeders i'll be a happy camper.
Thanks so much this was just the tip I was looking for as I guessed it might work but did not follow proper technic!
Thank you sooo much!! You just saved my project.
What about using a wet towel wrapped around the board and heat from a iron? I’ve heard that it’s suppose to help the fibers in the wood to spread out.
Ill give this a try on a table top ..one corner seems to be warping upwards . I have tried sanding the underside frame supports to allow the screws to pull the top down more. How ever the over hang doesnt want to budge,will see
Just found you - will look for more. Your vid came as a question on Woodtalkonline I posted. I resawed some spalted sycamore to make a 1/4" panel. After glue up, the whole thing cupped. I tried dampening the inside, but it came back. Maybe I didn't clamp it long enough? Don't recall how long I did, but I doubt it was a few days. I do have a steam kit - not used yet - and thought about that. Will try this. Thanks for posting!!
Thanks so much for this. I have a heirloom toybox with custom art on the top with bad cupping to fix without destroying the art. Thanks again.
I don't have a heat gun. Have you ever tried using the stove top burner, turning the the crown side down (towards the burner), so the same side gets the heat; holding the board up off the burner with a cooling rack; or using the broiler in the oven (top element) and placing the board crown side up in the oven?
Hello, Andy! Very helpful! Any tricks for a 2"× 9" × 10'? Its all jacked up! I've layed it down and put weights on it. Thinking I might add heat and water.
Hi
Thank you for posting this video. One question I have is that does the wood remains flat or does cupping comes back and if so how long.
Look forward to hearing from you as cupping is a big problem in my shop when using hardwood to build face frames.
You just saved my butt. Thanks Brother. As experiment, I had a piece of koa that was wet at some point so I tried to freeze it...which did get rid of the smell but put a small cup in the wood. I subbed.
Clearly this dries out the "long" side more than the short side, making it shrink. I'd love to know whether it returns to its original, cupped shape once the moisture levels on each side return to parity.
But the cupped shape of the wood isn't the "original". This board was cut flat and warped because one side dried out more already. Heating it like this is returning it to (nearly) the original, uncupped shape.
@@cormacsmall9442 makes sense, if true. Sometimes wood is carelessly dried before it's sawn flat. Then it cups as the drying evens out.
@@robfrost1 Actually yeah, good point. If it had an uneven distribution of moisture when it was sawn flat it could naturally settle into a cupped shape.
Now I'm also curious if it would just return to the cupped shape. If it does I imagine it won't be as extreme, seeing as naturally flat which cup don't really return to their original shape.
Im hoping this will work on glued up Cedar... did a panel and it bowed on me. Thanks for sharing !
I don't have a heat gun, but I do have those gigantic heating radiators in my house. I am trying wetting the concave side in the center of the cup to add mositure, then put the planks convex (crown) side down to heat that side and encourage it to tighten. I'm hoping that does the job.
i will have to give this a try. im currently installing oak pie shaped treads and the large one cupped on me. im not sure if it was because i only stained the top. im going to have to give this a try.
Dying laughing over the bloopers 😂😂
Looking at your panel I really think this will work :-) I've had quite a few pieces that look just like yours that turned out beautiful (especially since it's fairly thin!!) The thinner the piece the better it works. BUT, I can't stress enough that you need to be very careful on cutting the heat AS SOON AS you see the slightest movement!!! (It will move the panel in the other direction :-O) Set a reference point on the cut to help.. Let me know how it works!! Thanks for the comment!
Good video. I have a question, my furniture for the TV is bowed or sagging. I'm starting to believe that it wasn't the weight of the 60 inch TV that I had two years ago or the 49 inch that I have now. Since that's a whole piece of furniture, what would you recommend? To put it upside down on a sunny day and aid it with a heat gun or what else can I do? I am not a wood savvy. Thanks.
Hi Andy! My name is Cristina. I got my hands into a really beautiful 80 year old cedar slab. On one side is pretty cupped. I don't have tools. Would a hair drier work? I have placed it upside down. I got it from the big snowfall in January 2021 in Madrid, Spain. Thanks
Hey Adrian, it may but if you're working a number of pieces it could take a while. I've also used this method with a small Lp torch. It goes much faster **BUT MAKE SURE TO TRY THIS OUTSIDE IN CASE THE WOOD CATCHES FIRE!! Another thing to try would be to dampen the inside face of the cup with some water. Depending on the severity of the cup, this may swell the grains enough to push the planks flat, then clamp flat to dry for a few days. It's worth a try :-) Good luck!
Hi Andy. I have a 5 drawer teak dresser that bowed/cupped on one side after being stained with oil. The slide rails will no longer hold the drawers. I need to fix. Will this help?
Thanks. Will try on a chest board a built and I set aside for several months which bowed.
Thank you for making this video.
I’m refinishing an Ethan Allen corner drop leaf table. Both leaves are warped. This was great timing to see this.
Thank you bought some 1/2 board and didn’t notice a small cup. This removed it perfectly
Would this work on hand-stained hardwood floors with a few cupped boards from a kitchen leak?
Will the wood cup again in the future after you did this.
Man, that awesome, thanks Andy.